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EXPLORATION AND SURVEY
NALL EY
GREAT SALT LAKE OF UTALL-
A RECONNOISSANCE OF A NEW ROUTE THROUGH
THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. ©
BY HOWARD STANSBURY,
CAPTAIN ‘CORPS TOPOGRAPHI CAL ENGINEERS,
U. S. ARMY.
Bin ony AVCHD coe
PRINTED BY ORDER OF THE SENATE OF THE UNITED STATES,
PHILADELPHIA:
LIPPINCOTT, GRAMBO & CO.
1852. Ee \ HSONIA ;
MAR 1 1979
LIBRARIES
Bureau ToroGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS,
19th April, 1852.
SIR:
I have the honour to submit a copy of CAPTAIN STANSBURY’S
Report of his Expedition to the Salt Lake, called for by a resolu-
tion of the Senate of the 12th of March, 1851.
Respectfully, Sir,
Your obedient servant,
J. J. ABERT,
Col. Corps Top. Eng’rs.
Hon. C. M. Conran, Secretary Department of War.
War DEPARTMENT,
Washington, April 19th, 1852. i
Hon. W. R. Kine, President of the Senate.
SIR:
In compliance with a resolution of the Senate, passed March
12th, 1851, I have the honour to transmit herewith «A Copy of
the Report of Captain Howarp Srtanspury, of the Corps of
Topographical Engineers, of his Exploration of the Valley of the
Great Salt Lake.” |
I have the honour to be,
Very respectfully,
Your obedient servant,
C. M. Conrap,
Secretary of War.
~~
Printed by T. K & P. G. Collins.
“FR >’. t ;
are fF ahi
TSIM AWRY SG
INTRODUCTION.
In preparing this Report of the Exploration of the
Valley of the Great Salt Lake, I have occasionally availed
myself of the notes and journals of the other members of
the expedition, where they tended to elucidate facts of
which I was not personally cognizant. Generally, those
here given are the result of my own observation. Itisa
subject of much regret that the exigencies of the service so
hastened our departure, as to give but little time for prepa-
rations so necessary to the proper outfit of a party about to
engage in an extensive exploration. The instruments that
could be obtaimed upon so short a notice, were not of a
character suited to the purposes for which they were
required; and the want of such facilities proved the occasion
of no little vexation and delay. ‘The pressure upon the
Bureau of Topographical Engineers would allow of the
detail of but a single officer to aid me—a force entirely
inadequate to the satisfactory performance of the multi-
farious and arduous duties required in the course of so
long, and so widely-extended, an examination. The ill-
ness of that officer, during the whole of the journey from
the Missouri to Green River, deprived me altogether of his
much-needed services, and threw upon myself, alone, the
whole burden of that portion of the reconnoissance.
In a part of the Survey of the Utah Valley, we were
aided by Lieut. G. W. Howland, of the regiment of Mounted
Rifles, who was detailed from the command at Cantonment
3
4 | INTRODUCTION.
Loring, for the purpose; but who, before its completion,
was required to rejoin his regiment, for service on the
Pacific coast.
In the Department of Natural Science, from my very
limited time, I was not successful in securing the services
of a competent assistant. Yet, although as much has not
been accomplished as I had anticipated, it is hoped that
some additional light has been thrown upon the Geological
formation and Natural History of these almost unknown
regions. The papers of Professors Baird, Haldeman,
Torrey, and Hall, together with the analyses of Dr. Gale,
will not be without interest to the lovers of science. To
these gentlemen, and to Messrs. Girard & Peale, I am
much indebted for the labours which, from a regard to the
general interests of science, they have bestowed toward
rendering the present report more complete and _ satis-
factory. .
In what has been said respecting the Mormon commu-
nity, [ have endeavoured frankly to present the impres-
sions produced upon my mind by a somewhat intimate
acquaintance of a year’s duration with both rulers and
people. The intelligence of their organization into a
Territorial Government, had not reached the valley when
we left it. How far the change in their relations to the
country, may, as has been asserted, have revolutionized
the feelings of the people, it is impossible for me to say.
But no representations, that have yet been made public,
have served in the least to alter my expressed opinion of
their character for either love to the country, or loyalty
to the government. Since the return of the expedition, it
has appeared evident that the nature of the domestic rela-
tions of the Mormons has been very generally misappre- —
hended. It seems that the “spiritual wife system,” as it
has been very improperly denominated, has been supposed
to be nothing more nor less than the unbridled license of ©
indiscriminate intercourse between the sexes, either openly
practised by all, or indulged, to the invasion of individual
INTRODUCTION. \ 5
rights, by the spiritual leaders. Nothing can be further
from the real state of the case. The tie that binds a Mor-
mon to his second, third, or fourth wife, is just as strong,
sacred, and indissoluble, as that which unites him to his
first. Although this’ assumption of new marriage bonds
be called “‘ Sealing,” it 1s contracted, not secretly, but under
the solemn sanctions of a religious ceremony, in the pre-
sence, and with the approbation and consent of relatives
and friends. Whatever may be thought of the morality of
this practice, none can fail to perceive that it exhibits a
state of things entirely different from the gross licentious-
ness which is generally thought to prevail in this commu-
nity, and which, were it the case, would justly commend
itself to the unmingled abhorrence of the whole civilized
world. ‘The recent acquittal of a Mormon Elder for shoot-
ing the seducer of one of his wives, on the ground that the
act was one of justifiable homicide, fully corroborates the
truth of this remark, and shows in how strong a light the
sacredness and exclusive character of such relations are
viewed by the Mormons themselves.
The route pursued by the expedition on its return,
through a pass in the mountains hitherto unknown, will,
perhaps, lead to further investigation of that remarkable
depression lying between the Park Mountains and the
South Pass. That a feasible route may be traced through |
this depression has been satisfactorily demonstrated; and
the saving in distance cannot but prove an object of im-
portance, either in the establishment of a post route, or in
the construction of a railway communication across the
continent. The development of the inexhaustible mine-
ral resources of the coal basin of the Green River valley,
may be found, and at no very distant period, to go far
toward lessening the obstacles which at present exist in
the settlement of a country so destitute of other fuel. It
is to be hoped that the government will not discontinue
the further examination of these most interesting regions.
_ From the heads of the Arkansas to the northern boundary
6 INTRODUCTION.
of the republic, hes a field possessing mineral and agricul-
tural resources sufficient, were they more fully known and
explored, for the sustenance of a population equal to that
of the original thirteen states of the Union. Constituting,
as it does, a sort of neutral ground between widely sepa-
rated portions of this vast country, what can be more
obviously desirable than that its character should be more
fully known, its hidden sources of wealth developed, and
rendered available to the enterprise of our ever advancing
population ? |
In conclusion, I take much pleasure in acknowledging
the efficient and faithful services of my friend and assist-
ant, Lieut. J. W. Gunnison, of the Corps of Topographical
Engineers. To high professional skill, he added energy,
judgment, and an untiring devotion to the interests of the
expedition, which very materially contributed to its success.
Whilst confined to winter quarters in Salt Lake City,
he paid particular attention to the religious doctrines and
practices of the Mormon Church, the results of which, as I
understand, he is about publishing to the world. The
subject will doubtless prove of great interest to the theo-
logian, and, indeed, to all who have watched, with any
attention, the progress, in this country, of the various ex-
travagant theories, civil and religious, which form so
marked a characteristic of the present age.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
FROM FORT LEAVENWORTH TO FORT KEARNY.
Fort Leavenworth—Cholera—‘“ Corralling” on the plains—Sauk Indians—Big
Blue River—Emigrant graves—Pawnee horse-thieves—Independence road
—California emigrants—Boston pack company—Dutch gold-hunter—Storm
on the prairie—Game— Platte valley—Buffalo—Scarcity of fuel—Fort
MR Ve Shits Sahin «Goan uals eruhaliaive.ca staid de's'n she tuhwaln ch noisheaaie hob pisiodahe Shiv velve stakes lage
CHAPTER II.
FROM FORT KEARNY TO FORT LARAMIE.
Character of the Platte valley—Absence of timber—Fossils—Forks of the
Platte—Action of water—Prairie-dog village—Buffalo meat—Fossil bones
—Crossing of the South Fork—Sioux dead lodge—Ash Hollow—North Fork
of the Platte—Fourth of July on the plains—Sioux burial—Indian girl—
Inhumanity of emigrants—Sioux villages—Cholera—Sioux moving—Court
House Rock — Lignite-Capitol —Chimney Rock — Scott’s Bluff— Fort La-
CHAPTER III.
FROM FORT LARAMIE TO FORT BRIDGER.
Limestone quarry—Warm Spring—Destruction of property by emigrants—
Gypsum—Deer creek—Coal—Crossing of North Fork—Coal on North Fork
—Red Buttes—Abandoned wagons—Dead cattle—Gales on the plains—
Poisonous alkaline springs and incrustations—Independence Rock—Devil’s
Gate—Sweetwater River—Wind River Mountains—Saleratus Lake—De-
serters—Cajfion of the Sweetwater—South Pass—Pacific Springs—Emigrant
ruse—Fossil trees—Green River—Fort Bridger—Uintah Mountains—Road
to Fort Hall—Road to Great Salt Lake...............scsececsscsccesesesonsesces sevens
CHAPTER IV.
FROM FORT BRIDGER TO THE CITY OF THE GREAT SALT LAKE,
Reconnoissance between Fort Bridger and the Northern end of Salt Lake—
Bear River—Medicine Butte—Pumbar’s Creek—Ogden’s Hole—Shoshonee
7
13
31
54
CONTENTS.
root-diggers—Pass through Wahsatch Mountains—Valley of the Great Salt
Lake—Brown’s Settlement—Remarkable hospitality—Rumoured opposition
of the Mormons to the exploration—Its causes and removal—Co-operation
OUMEMG ANE ROTIGeS His ste vscddscestcc duvonenee'deutransioyvacertssmeen eet ote betede eeamteeene Page
CHAPTER V.
Reconnoissance from Salt Lake City to Fort Hall—Bear River—Valley of the
Malade—Wahsatch Mountains—Trace from Sheep Rock—Hedspeth’s Cut-
off—Valley of the Pannack—Wind-mill Rock—Port Neuf River—Valley of
Lewis’ Fork of the Columbia—Fort Hall—Cantonment Loring—Return to
Salt Lake—Reconnoissance of Cache Valley—Road from Fort Bridger
throumh, this valbeyiies sss. dnadsccter sodebeteeds soisvcuwaks sanththashordedeen avons cievewa
CHAPTER VI.
Reconnoissance of the Western shores of the Great Salt Lake—Obstacles to be
- encountered—Desert character of the country—Brackish water—Indians
—wWater fowl—Salt and Sulphur springs—Salt Lake from Promontory
Point—North Shore of the lake—Water levels—Large Inland sea—Desert
plains — Scarcity of water—Suffering of animals — Magnetic iron ore—
Ancient beach of the Lake-Island Mountains—Extensive mud plains—A
Sunday’s march —Bivouac—Ancient crater—Field of solid salt—Pilot
Peak—Shoshonee winter lodges—The seventy-mile desert—Road to Hum-
boldt’s River—Another ancient crater—Abandoned wagons and emigrants’
‘‘cache”—Spring valley—Warm springs containing fish—Tuilla valley—
South shore of the lake—Salt Lake City—Results of the reconnoissance...
CHAPTER VII.
Suspension of the survey for 1849—Progress of the work, and obstacles to its
prosecution—Winter in Salt Lake City—Snows in the mountains—Sketch
of early history of the Mormons—Exodus from Illinois—Journey through
the wilderness—Mormon battalion—Arrival in Salt Lake valley—Founding
‘of the city—Scarcity of food—Improvements and settlements—Establish-
ment of:a provisional government—State of Deseret—Warm and hot springs
—Irrigation—Public buildings—Currency—Connection of church and state
—Revenue—Tithes—Character of ‘‘the President’”—Treatment of emi-
grants—Manners and customs—Claims of the Mormon church—Priesthood
—Book of Mormon—Spiritual revelations—Miracles—Power of the priest-
hood—Polygamy—Sealing—Practical working of the system—Effects to
be anticipated—Perpetual emigration fund—Route to San Diego—Propa-
gandism—Sources of wealth—Agriculture—Soil—Area of cultivation—
Lake Utah—River Jordan—Settlements within the Great Basin, and man-
ner of forming them—Manufactures—Education—Territory of Utah—Ap-
pointment of Mormons to office—Loyalty of rulers and people—Brigham
Young—Indians—Mormon difficulties with the Utahs—Zoological collec-
SF
97
CONTENTS. | 9
CHAPTER VIII.
Survey of Salt Lake—Mouth of the Jordan—Antelope Island—Formation of
salt—Frémont’s Island—Ancient water levels—Egg Island—Carrington’s
Island—Hat Island—Volcanic character—Bear River Bay—Mud Island—
Larve of insects—Curious excrescences—Landing to encamp—A night on
the mud flats—Alum Cliff—Stansbury’s Island—Black Rock—Flat Rock
Point—Indian springs—Shoshonee Indians—Silk plant—Spring Bay—
Larve beds—Bitumen—Density of the lake water—Gunnison’s Island—
Water fowl—Eggs—Northern bay of the lake—Western shores—Fresh
water—lIts scarcity—Dolphin Island—Field of salt—Perilous adventure—
Strong’s Knob—Sand flats—Utah digger—A night voyage—Bay on Antelope
Island—The dome—Completion of the survey of the lake—Triangulation—
Salt water bathing—Termination of the exploration of the valley—Sum-
mary—Hospitality of the Mormons............sccsceesseveseee sovensees soeeesees Page 151
CHAPTER IX.
Departure from Great Salt Lake City—Golden Pass of the Wahsatch moun-
tains—Snows in the cafions—Camass Prairie—Heads of the Timpanogas—
Proposed change in the location of the present route through the Wahsatch
range—Storm in the mountains—Singular dyke—Red Fork of the Weber
—Mormon emigrants— Echo Creek—Cache Cave—Yellow Creek — The
Needles—Bear River—Coal, and mineral tar—Eastern rim of the Great
Basin—Propesed route for Pacific railroad, from Fort Bridger to the valley
of Salt Lake—Fort Bridger—Military post—Exploration of a new pass
through the Rocky Mountains—Valley of the Colorado of the West—‘‘The ,
church”—Pilot butte—Charge of Indian warriors—Green River—Bitter
Creek valley—Beds of bituminous coal—The ‘“ Haystack” —*“ Red Gate” —
Muddy Creek—Trappers’ tale—Beaver dams—Dividing ridge between the
waters of the Atlantic and the Pacific— North Fork of the Platte—In-
dian forts—Cotton-wood parks—Medicine-bow Butte—Buffalo-butchering,
‘‘mountain fashion” — ‘Running buffalo” —Laramie river—Alarm: of
indians—Ogallalah Sioux—Language of signs—Sioux village — Buffalo
feast—Laws of hunting—Black Hills—Heads of Crow Creek—Cheyenne
Indians—Cheyenne Pass—Lodge Pole Creek—Successful result of the re-
connoissance—Rail road to Salt Lake—Different routes to the valley of the
Humboldt—Mormon route to San Diego—Route from Salt Lake City to the
Humboldt—Chugwater valley—Fort Laramie—Fort Leavenworth.......... 217
APPENDIX A.
Tables of Measured Distances from the Missouri River at Fort Leavenworth,
to Salt Lake City.......c...ssscce avers misia ebluikia sive cee alee las Sunatseiiee eis tees? asa) sie 270
From Salt Lake City to the Missouri, upon the Return Route............ssecscees 278
Hromsalt Lake City to Wort. Hall in, Oregons sinsesess ocsvnccsy ocesepvecinevnnrians saacci 293
From Salt Lake City to the San Pete Settlement ...........cccsssscssneesseseceeesenes
10 . CONTENTS.
APPENDIX B.
Latitudes and Longitudes of the principal Triangulation Stations.......... Page 297
Tabulation of the Triangles developed in the Survey of the Great Salt Lake.. 298
Table of Geographical Positions........ccccseeeseeeeee eaaisns sennineciowienekoeietceleeia eta 300
APPENDIX C.
ZOOLOGY. ;
Mammals, by Prof. Spencer, F. Bairdss i sevnsccctctenscicescevesuceeh seuepeus sepeneeee 309
Birds, by Prof. Spencer F. Bairdici.5..5:sswonstiodsesueuenavesvecweeuenssuthert caliente siete 314
Reptiles, by Prof. Baird and Charles Girard..........00+sssccsecsecsenseesieneees seesiss 336
Insects, Dy Prof. Haldeman... seninassecamendies atierelievees sieeve nina 'ciicist Wesel eeaneanaame 366
On certain Insect Larve, by Titian R. Peale...........000 areepewoeds (tinieblels ejecta . 379
APPENDIX D.
BOTANY.
Catalogue and Description of Plants collected, by Prof. John Torrey.......... . 383
APPENDIX E.
GEOLOGY AND PALHONTOLOGY.
Letter from Prof. Hall of New York, on the Geology and Paleontology of the
GOMBIARY faee acters eee cebtene tee cisinalsnieWcelar une nbesiaeels sa a. Wenbievinieninslsiis’ melee osu esletiaealscels seat 401
APPENDIX F.
CHEMICAL ANALYSES.
Chemical Analysis of the Mineral Waters and other specimens collected, by
Drs Die DG ale cu cipew cappnieaeastencs'escsiceecensue/noul's at snicsssaisha's orate tsa. asecieess nema 417
APPENDIX G.
Meteorological Observations ........ceccsscosece cones Giscsascscunseeedse cose eaten eeme cannes 423
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
View of Fort Utah, on the Timpanogos.
Fort Laramie.
Scene in the Black Hills—Bitter Creek Valley.
Crossing of the Platte.
Fort Bridger.
First View of Great Salt Lake Valley, from a Mountain-pass.
Panoramic View—Across Bear River Bay—Great Salt Lake.
West End of Frémont Island, and Antelope Island from Alum Bay.
View looking North-west from Promontory Point.
Station—East End of the Base Line, Salt Lake Valley.
Great Salt Lake City, from the North.
Street in Great Salt Lake City.
Hot Springs—three miles from the City.
Bowery, Mint, and President’s House—Great Salt Lake City.
Fort Utah, or Provaux City—Utah Valley.
Utah Prisoners, under the Common Platform—Fort Utah.
Old Elk and his Squaw—Utah Indians.
Baron La Hontan’s Map of ‘‘The Long River.”
Station, and Mass of Mica Schist—Frémont’s Island—Great Salt Lake.
Cave on Frémont’s Island.
East End of Frémont’s Island and Promontory Range, looking North.
Landing to Encamp—Bear River Bay—Great Salt Lake.
Valley between Promontory Range and Rocky Butte—Bear River Bay.
Camp No. 4, near Promontory Point.
Flat Rock Point.
Part of Western Slope of Promontory Range.
Gunnison’s Island—Eastern Shore.
Gunnison’s Island and Station, from the North.
Limestone Cliff—North End of Gunnison’s Island.
View from Strong’s Knob.
Carrington’s Island.
East Side of Stansbury’s Island.
Peak on East Side of Stansbury’s Island.
Entrance to the Valley of the Weber.
Valley of the Jordan, from the Mouth of the She-rente.
11
13 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
y
REPTILES.
Siredon Lichenoides, Plate I
Cnemidophorus Tigris, Plate II.
Crotaphytus Wislizenii, Plate III.
Elgaria Scincicauda—Plestiodon Skeltonianum, Plate IV.
Sceloporus Graciosus—Uta Stansburiana, Plate V.
Holbrookia Maculata—Phrynosoma Modesta, Plate VI.
Phrynosoma Platyrhinos—Phrynosoma Douglassii, Plate VII.
Phrynosoma Cornuta—Phrynosoma Coronata, Plate VIII.
INSECTS.
Labidus Saji—L. Harrisii—L. Melshajmeri—Euphoria Cernii—Cotalpa Grani-
collis—Henous Techanus—Megaderus Corallifer—Cicada Striatipes—C. Rer.,
Plate IX.
Zaitha Bifoveata—Cdipoda Corallipes—Ephippiger Trivavensis—Anabrus Sim-
plex, Plate X.
PLANTS.
Strepanthus Crassicaulis, Plate I.
Phaca Mollissima, Plate II.
Cowania Stansburiana, Plate III.
Spirza Dumosa, Plate IV.
Heuchera Rubescens, Plate V.
Chenactis Achillezfolia, Plate VI.
Monothrix Stansburiana, Plate VII.
Crepis Acuminata, Plate VIII.
Amblirioa Pudicum, Plate IX.
PALZONTOLOGY.
CORALS—CYATHOPHYLLIDA.
Faviphyllum? rugosum, (n. sp.) F. multilamella. F. Stansburii—Lithostrontion
—(sp. indet.), Plate I.
BRACHIOPODA.
Terrebratula subtilita—Spirifer hemiplicata. S. octoplicata—S. triplicata, Plate
II.
Chonetes variolata—Productus costatus—P. Pome Hen tee, P. — (sp. indet.)
Orthis umbraculum? Plate III. |
. ACEPHALA.
Avicula? custa. Tellenomya protensa—Cypricardia occidentalis. Allorisma ter-
minalis, (n. sp.)—Nucula arata, (n. sp.)
GASTEROPODA.
Pleurotomaria coronula, (n. sp.) Euomphalus subplanus, Plate IV.
Map of the Great Salt Lake, and adjacent country.
Map of the Reconnoissance of the Country between the Valley of the Great Salt
Lake and the Missouri River, at Fort Leavenworth.
STANSBURY’S REPORT.
CHAPTER I.
FROM FORT LEAVENWORTH TO FORT KEARNY.
Washington, March 10, 1852.
CoLoNEL JoHN J. ABERT,
Chief of Bureau of Topographical Engineers.
’Srr:—I have the honour to submit to the Bureau of Topogra-
phical Engineers the following report of the results of an expe-
dition, organized in obedience to your orders of April 11, 1849,
having for its object a survey of the Great Salt Lake, and an
exploration of its valley.
Your instructions required me to report to the commanding
officer of the regiment of Mounted Rifles, at Fort Leavenworth, on
the 10th of May following, and directed me to accompany those
troops on their route to Oregon as far as Fort Hall, at which
point I was to separate from the command and prosecute the
examinations required. Owing to causes beyond my control, and
of which the bureau is already aware, I did not reach Fort Lea-
venworth until after the departure of the Rifle Regiment from
that post, and was consequently obliged to make such change in
my arrangements as the circumstances required. The necessary
outfit and provisions were obtained from the proper departments
of the army, and the party enlarged and well armed, to enable
it to protect itself from any danger or depredation to which it
might be exposed from tribes of roving or hostile Indians. I wish
here to express my obligation to Colonel Sumner, the command-
ing officer at Fort Leavenworth, and to the quartermaster, Major
Ogden, as well for the prompt and efficient aid rendered by them
as for the kind interest they evinced in the success of the expe-
dition. very facility was cheerfully accorded, and every thing
conducive to our comfort most liberally supplied. We were much
delayed, however, by the heavy drafts made upon the resources
, 13
14 FROM FORT LEAVENWORTH TO FORT KEARNY.
of the post for outfits and transportation furnished to several
heavy trains for Oregon, New Mexico, and California, as well as
by a panic occasioned by exaggerated reports of the existence of
the cholera at the post; which caused the desertion of forty
teamsters and mechanics in one night. Not a hand was to be
hired, nor could the quartermaster furnish me with a single team-
ster. I was consequently obliged to send an express to Kansas
for the necessary additional force.
Before leaving Fort Leavenworth, we were joined by a small
party of emigrants for California, who desired to travel in our
company for the sake of protection, and who continued with us
as far as Salt Lake City. This proved a fortunate arrangement,
since we thereby secured the society of an excellent and intelli-
gent lady, who not only, by her cheerfulness and vivacity, beguiled |
the tedium of many a monotonous and wearisome hour, but, by
her fortitude and patient endurance of exposure and fatigue, set
an example worthy the imitation of many of the ruder sex.
The cholera had for a considerable time been raging on the Mis-
sourl; and as we passed up, fearful rumours of its prevalence and
fatality among the emigrants on the route daily reached us from
the plains. On the day we left Fort Leavenworth, one member
of our little party was carried to the hospital in a state of col-
lapse, where he died in twenty-four hours. The only officer
attached to my command had been ill for several weeks, with
severe attacks of intermittent fever, which now merged into chronic
dysentery, and he was, in consequence, unable to sit on his horse,
or to do duty of any kind. These were rather discouraging cir-
cumstances for an outset; but, at length, on the 31st day of May,
our preparations being completed, we commenced our journey, my
own party consisting in all of eighteen men, five wagons, and
forty-six horses and mules; while that of Mr. Sackett, our fellow-
traveller, contained six persons, one wagon, one travelling carriage,
and fifteen animals. Lieutenant Gunnison, being too ill to travel
in any other manner, was carried on his bed, in a large spring
wagon, which had been procured for the transportation of the
instruments. The weather, in the morning, had been dark and
lowering, with occasional showers, but it cleared off about noon;
the camp broke up; the wagons were packed, and we prepared to
exchange, for a season, the comforts and refinements of civilized
life, for the somewhat wild and roving habits of the hunter and
the savage. My party consisted principally of experienced voy-
EMIGRANTS TO CALIFORNIA. 1d)
ageurs, who had spent the best part of their lives among the wilds
of the Rocky Mountains, and to whom this manner of life had
become endeared by old associations. We followed the «‘emigra-
tion road,” (already broad and well beaten as any turnpike in our
country,) over a rolling prairie, frmged on the south with trees.
The hills consisted principally of carboniferous limestone, in ap-
parently horizontal strata, which in places formed quite prominent
escarpments. Our first day’s journey was only of six miles; but
we were now fairly embarked, and things gradually assumed the
appearance of order and regularity.
Although the route taken by the party has been travelled by
thousands of people, both before and since we passed over it, I
have thought that some brief extracts from the daily journals of
the expedition might not be without interest; for, although nothing
very new may perhaps be elicited, still it is not improbable that
they will convey, to such as peruse them, a more correct idea of
what the thousands have had to encounter who have braved this
long journey in search either of a new home in Oregon, or of that ©
more alluring object—the glittering treasure of California.
Friday, June 1.—Bar. at sunrise, 20.86; Ther. 63°. The
road for the first few miles wound along the fence of what ap-
peared to be a large, neglected Indian farm, following for about
nine miles the dividing ridge between the waters of the Missouri
and those of the Kansas, with deep ravines inclining to the north-
east. The ridge terminated in a steep hill, at the bottom of which
we found Walnut Creek, running to the south. By an _ escarp-
ment on the west side, the rock was found to be of the same
character as that passed over yesterday. At 34 o’clock, we de-
scended by a steep and somewhat dangerous road, to the valley of
a small and beautiful stream running north, upon the left bank of
which we encamped, near the edge of a wood, fringing the stream,
in which black-walnut, white-oak, and hickory predominated. A
short distance from the camp, to the north, are high limestone
bluffs, without trees.
In the course of the afternoon we passed the i grea of
a Mr. Allen, consisting of about twenty-five ox-teams, bound for
the land of gold. They had been on the spot ae days, de-
tained by sickness. One of the party had died but the day be-
fore of cholera, and two more were then down with the same
disease. Inthe morning early, we had met four men from the
same camp, returning on foot, with their effects on their backs,
16 FROM FORT LEAVENWORTH TO FORT KEARNY.
frightened at the danger and disgusted already with the trip. It
was here that we first saw a train “corralled.”’ The wagons were
drawn up in the form of a circle and chained together, leaving a
small opening at but one place, through which the cattle were
driven into the enclosed space at night, and guarded. The ar-
rangement is an excellent one, and rendered impossible what is
called, in Western phrase, a ‘‘stampede’—a mode of assault prac-
tised by Indians for the purpose of carrying off cattle or horses,
in which, if possible, they set loose some of the animals, and so
frighten the rest as to produce aw general and confused flight of the
whole. To a few determined men, wagons thus arranged form a
breastwork exceedingly difficult to be carried by any force of un-
disciplined savages.—Occasional showers during the day. Hven-
ing clear and pleasant, with a bright moon. Day’s travel, twelve
miles.
Saturday, June 2.—Bar. 29.17; Ther. 64°. The general course
to-day has been north-west, over a rolling prairie country, in-
dented by deep ravines, formed by numerous small streams flow-
ing into the Missouri, which runs eight or ten miles to the north-
éast. In crossing a steep ravine in the forks of one of these
affluents of that river, a part of one of the wagons was broken,
the repair of which occupied the remainder of the day, and obliged
us to encamp on the left bank of the stream, the bluff of which
was quite steep. Near the top of the bank was a stratum of shale
about two feet thick; the overlying limestone being considerably
undermined by disintegration: over the limestone was a layer of
light-coloured friable sandstone. In the shale, no fossils were dis-
covered, but the limestone contained stems of encrinites. The
strata appeared to be horizontal. Grass and water are here very
abundant, and fine springs are to be found on the south side of the
stream, which is richly wooded. Day’s travel, seven miles.
Sunday, June 3.—Bar. 29.01; Ther. 80°. Camp not moved to-
day. The cliff on the north side of the creek was traced for
about a mile up the stream. The shale continues horizontal. In —
some parts it was dark, and apparently carboniferous, but no fos-
sils were discovered in it. Above it the limestone was sandy and
ferruginous, and the upper layers contained many fossils,—spirifer,
productus, &c.,—mixed with small shells. The cliff was from one
hundred and fifty to two hundred feet high, facing north-west.
Monday, June 4.—Bar. 29.18; Ther. 65°. The road in the
morning was very sinuous, from its following the crest of a high
SAUK INDIANS. ; 17
ridge to avoid the spurs and ravines on the right. We are now
fairly on the broad open prairie; the air fresh, cool, and delight-
ful; the view on all sides very extensive. In the afternoon we
were met by a small band of Sauk Indians, who presented a paper,
written by some philanthropic emigrant, representing that as we
were now passing through their country, consuming their grass,
water, and wood, (the latter of which was very scarce) they wished
to receive something by way of remuneration, whether money, bis-
cuit, (of which they are very fond,) or tobacco. They were rather
a fine-looking body of men, and seemed quite peaceably disposed.
They were evidently on the look-out for the different companies as
_ they passed, with the purpose of levying contributions. They ac-
companied us to camp, and received some biscuit and tobacco,
with which they seemed well satisfied.
The formation passed over to-day has been the same as that
observed heretofore, except that the shales appear to be rather
more predominant, and the limestone more ferruginous, and per-
haps more siliceous. Ina deep ravine the shales were very evi-
dent, being in some places washed out to a great extent from the
overlying limestone, which presented large tabular masses, in plaée,
in which no dip was discovered.
Tuesday, June 5.—Bar. 29.17; Ther. 70°. The country tra-
versed to-day has been principally rolling prairie, rising gradually
for about six miles; our road, following the crest of a ridge, with
heads of ravines from the north and the south interlocking, was
rendered both crooked and undulating. After tracing this winding
track for some time, we entered the main emigration road from
Kansas. Up to this point the road has been very good—smooth,
hard, and dry, and free from abrupt descents or ascents. The
country around us is entirely destitute of trees; not so much as a
twig is to be seen; all is bald, naked prairie, with sweeping undu-
lations of the surface, as if a heavy ground-swell of the ocean had
been suddenly arrested and converted, by the wand of some en-
chanter, into fixed and solid soil.
_ Rain came on about noon, with occasional showers, until nearly
sunset, when it cleared off, with high wind from the south. Ferru-
ginous and slaty limestones were occasionally exposed in the ra-
vines, very fossiliferous, containing principally testacea. Some
stems of crinoidez were also found in the rock, in place. Plover
and prairie hens were now seen very frequently; the former, how-
ever, for the first time, and very shy. In the afternoon, we met a
9
18 FROM FORT LEAVENWORTH TO FORT KEARNY.
small party of travellers, with a sick man ina wagon. They proved
to be returning emigrants, who, after proceeding as far as Fort
Kearny, had lost heart, sold out all they had, (their flour and
bacon at one cent per pound,) and were now slowly and sadly
wending their way back to their homes. They assured us that
many more were in the same melancholy case. Day’s march,
fourteen miles.
June 6.—Camp up by4A.M. Bar. 28.75; Ther. 70°. Wind
south-east ; clouds heavy and threatening. It shortly commenced
raining hard, and continued until nearly noon. The ground to-day
has been strewed with pebbles of granite, quartz, and porphyry,
and also with large blocks of porphyritic granite. On the tops of
the hills, limestone again appeared; it was non-fossiliferous, and
rather sandy. About five miles from camp we crossed a small
stream, from which were procured some specimens of spirifer.
Under this rock was a non-fossiliferous stratum and then shale.
The upper stratum was not in place. In the afternoon we passed
a melancholy memento of disappointed hope and blasted enter-
prise—four freshly-made graves of emigrants, who had died by the
way, and were here left on the wide waste, with not a name to pre-
serve their remembrance. How different such a fate from the high
and sanguine prospects with which they had set out !
In the evening a heavy thunder-storm from the south-east, with
rain and violent wind. Day’s travel, twenty miles.
June T.—Bar. 28.48; Ther. 68°. The travelling to-day is
heavy, in consequence of the rains of yesterday. The road lies
through a rolling prairie and upon a ridge dividing the waters
of the Missouri from those of the Big Blue river, a tributary of
the Kansas. Met a Mr. Brulet, a French trader, from Fort La-
ramie, with a large train of wagons, laden with packs of buffalo-
robes, bound for St. Louis. He had been forty days on the road,
and had met not less than four thousand wagons, averaging four
persons toa wagon. ‘This large number of emigrants appeared to
him to be getting along rather badly, from their want of experi-
ence as to the proper. mode of travelling on the prairies, to which
cause much of the sufferimg experienced on these plains is doubt-
less to be ascribed. We availed ourselves of his offer to —
back letters to our friends at home.
In the course of the moraing, passed the fresh grave of a poor
fellow whose last resting-place ‘he been partially disturbed by the
wolves. They had burrowed a large hole near the head, which,
RETURNING EMIGRANTS. ° 19
however, had been subsequently filled up with sticks by some com-
passionate traveller. It was an affecting object, and no good omen
of what might be looked for, should any of us fall by the way in
our long and arduous journey. Upon a ridge near our noon halt,
was found considerable detritus of primitive rocks, scattered over
the surface of the ground, and many boulders of granite. Above
this lay the limestone, the lower strata of which appeared to be
composed of honey-comb limestone; the upper strata were more
sandy and without fossils. After a march of seventeen and three-
fourths miles, encamped on the left bank of what our guide called
Legerette Creek. The banks, at the crossing, were high and steep,
and afforded some very good sections of limestones interspersed
with shales. A road had been made, with no little trouble, by the
emigrants, down the banks on each side, and the crossing was tole-
rably good. ‘The stream is thirty feet wide by one foot deep, and
flows with a bold and rapid current into the Missouri. The strata,
exposed by a section at the crossing, the direction of which was
S.S. H. and N. N. W., were limestones with strata of shales, con-
formable, with a marked dip of 12° to the west, and containing a
considerable number of fossils, productus, spirifer, &e. Our camp
for the night is situated on the edge of a beautifully broad and
level prairie, nearly elliptical in form, almost encircled by this
lovely stream, whose banks are fringed with the richest foliage:
noble old oaks, elms, and walnuts overhang the water, with a back-
ground of rising hills covered with grass and flowers.
Friday, June 8.—Bar. at sunrise, 28.79; Ther. 68°. Wind
north-east, cool and delightful. A small party, with a single
wagon, drove into camp just as we were leaving the ground. They
had formed part of a company from St. Louis, had proceeded
within sixty miles of Fort Kearny, but had quarrelled, and be-
come disgusted with the trip and with each other, and had sepa-
rated. These persons were on their return to St. Louis. They
gave discouraging accounts of matters ahead. Wagons, they said,
could be bought, upon the route of emigration, for from ten to fif-
teen dollars apiece, and provisions for almost nothing all. So
much for arduous enterprises rashly undertaken, and prosecuted
without previous knowledge or suitable preparation! What else
could be expected? The road to-day has been quite circuitous,
ranging from 8. by W. to W. by N. We have been following the
ridge dividing the two main forks of Legerette Creek, just above
the junction of which we encamped last night. Extensive grassy
20 FROM FORT LEAVENWORTH TO FORT KEARNY.
slopes descended from the road on each side of us as we gradually
ascended the ridge. From our elevated position, the course and
windings of either branch of the stream could plainly be traced
by the fringes of rich timber which clothed their banks, while the
dull uniformity of the prairie was agreeably relieved by the ravines
of numerous tributary waters, extending almost to the crest of the
ridge over which we travelled, and wooded to their very heads.
As we continued to rise with the country, the graceful undulations
of the naked hills and hollows contrasted agreeably with the waving
lines of hickory and oak that marked the course of each little
rivulet until it joined its destined stream, and formed together a
landscape which, for extent and rich picturesque beauty, cannot
easily be surpassed. ‘The country generally begins to present a
more sandy appearance than heretofore, and the rock to be com-
posed of extremely friable materials, from the decomposition of
which results much sand impregnated with iron and shale, together
with a great deal of gravel. The examination of a ravine near
the morning’s camp, the north side of which was very precipitous
and about a hundred and fifty feet in height, exhibited a section
from N. to 8. of the upper strata of rocks, which were in this di-
rection horizontal, but with a dip to the west. The strata con-
sisted of layers of shales, sand, and detritus of older rocks, mixed
with sand—all very friable.. In the bottom, limestone again ap-
peared. On a hill opposite, the limestone was found cropping out
with a dip to the west. The country to-day has presented a differ-
ent aspect from that heretofore passed over; being intersected by
deep ravines, most of which are heavily wooded to near the summit
of the ridge. We encamped at the head of one of these, in a
handsome grove of timber, after a drive of seventeen and a half
miles.
Saturday, June 9.—Bar. 28.66; Ther. 68°. Morning cool and
sky overcast. The road continued to ascend for a few miles, when
we crossed the Big Vermilion, (a tributary of the Big Blue,) which
heads a mile to the N. H. ‘The crossing is miry. In the after-
noon, encamped on the right bank of the Big Blue, near a spring
of fine water, on the margin of a level prairie, bordered with huge
trees, under the welcome shade of which we pitched our tents after
a fatiguing march of twenty-six miles.
The stream is here about seventy yards wide and three feet
deep, flowing with a bold current, and is tolerably well wooded.
We found the trees and stumps on its banks carved all over with
BIG BLUE—TRADER’S GRAVE. , 328
the names of hundreds of emigrants who had preceded us, the
dates of their passing, the state of their health and spirits, to-
gether with an occasional message for their friends who were ex-
pected to follow. Such a record, in the midst of a wide solitude
like this, could not but make a strong and cheering impression on
every new-comer, who thus suddenly found himself, as it were, in
the midst of a great company of friends and fellow-travellers.
On the left bank was the freshly-made grave of a French trader,
whose name was well known to most of our voyageurs. It was
heaped up with earth and covered longitudinally with heavy split
logs, placed there to prevent the depredations of the wolves; the
whole being surmounted by a wooden cross, with the name of the
deceased and the usual significant abbreviation, IHS, carved
rudely upon it. We had passed six graves already during the day.
Melancholy accompaniments they are of a road silent and solitary at
best, and ill calculated to cheer the weary, drooping wayfarers. Out
encampment was pleasantly situated under the spreading branches
of some large oaks, with a spring of pure, cold water near at
hand—the latter an item which we soon afterward learned to value
beyond all price. Just above us was a wagon with a small party
of emigrants. ‘They had lost most of their cattle on the journey;
and the father of three of them having died on the road, they, in
conformity with his dying wishes, were now on their return to the
settlements. A short distance beyond these, we found another
small company, who had been encamped here for twelve days on
account of the illness of one of their comrades. ‘They also were
on their return. Had we been going out on a private enterprise,
discouragements were not wanting as well from the dead as the
living.
Since crossing the Vermilion, the character of the country has
changed from that of a high and rolling prairie to a comparatively
flat and elevated plateau, with the drains much broader and not so
depressed as heretofore. The soil is much deeper, the trees larger
and more numerous, and the water cooler and more abundant.
White sandstone, light-coloured shales, some flints, and a few fos-
sils, were passed during the day. At the crossing of a small
branch, about two miles before reaching the Big Blue, the rock
exhibited a section from north to south, nearly horizontal, with
perhaps a slight dip to the south. It consisted of white limestone
and strata of flint, with some imperfect fossils. The general sur-
face of the rock is worn into escarpments in the shape of bastions,
22. FROM FORT LEAVENWORTH TO FORT KEARNY.
with numerous terraces rising one above the other, having a strik-
ing and picturesque effect. Some shales are interspersed among
the chalky limestone. Here also were seen several small boulders
of red granite. Some good-sized catfish were caught in the Blue
by the men, during the night.
Sunday, June 10.—Bar. 28.82; Ther. 70°. The camp rested,
it having been determined, from the commencement of the expedi-
tion, to devote this day, whenever practicable, to its legitimate
purpose, as an interval of rest for man and beast. I here beg to
record, as the result of my experience, derived not only from the
present journey, but from the observation of many years spent in
the performance of similar duties, that, as a mere matter of pecu-
niary consideration, apart from all higher obligations, it is wise to
keep the Sabbath. More work can be obtained from both men
and animals by its observance, than where the whole seven days
are uninterruptedly devoted to labour.
Very early in the morning it was discovered that three horses
from our herd, and one from a neighbourmg encampment, had
been stolen during the night, and that so adroitly as not to occasion
the slightest noise, although our animals were all picketed in the
very centre of the camp and within a few feet of the tents. Search
was forthwith made for the trail of the robbers, which was soon
found, and ascertained to be that of Indians. Two parties of
scouts were despatched in pursuit. In the mean time, the ammu-
nition chests were opened, additional cartridges served out, arms
examined and reloaded, the men practised in shooting at a mark,
and every preparation made to guard against a repetition of the
outrage. In a few hours one of the parties, under Archambault,
the guide, an experienced hunter and mountaineer, returned, but
without the animals. They had crossed the Blue at the ford, and
followed the trail of the Indians about six miles, but here the lat-
ter had recrossed, and taken to the hard open prairie, where all
further trace of them was lost, and the pursuit in consequence
given up. They found, however, the spot where the Indian party
had encamped the day previous, marked by the fragments of an
ox they had just stolen from a neighbouring train. They had
taken two; one they had killed and devoured, leaving in their
haste the yoke and hide of the slaughtered animal, together with
a small portion of the meat, while they made off with the horses,
and drove the other ox before them. ‘The robbers were Pawnees,
and had evidently been watching ever since our arrival, as they
PAWNEE HORSE-THIEVES. 23
had selected the very best horses in both trains, all of which, to
make the matter worse, happened to be private property. Effec-
tive measures should certainly be taken to punish and thereby pre-
vent the occurrence of these outrages by a band of savages, who,
although receiving a large annuity from the national treasury,
take every opportunity to prey upon those under the protection
of the government. Several large catfish and some soft-shelled
turtle were caught in the stream by the men. The rich bottom in
the rear of the camp produces strawberries of fine quality in the
utmost profusion; the men gathered them by hatfuls. ‘Two very
large terrapins were also found here on the prairie.
In the afternoon, the advance of a train from St. Joseph, be-
longing to Messrs. Bissonet and Badeau, bound on a trading expe-
dition among the Sioux, passed the camp and halted on the bluff
beyond. Mr. Bissonet, who is an old trader and appears to be
well acquainted with the country, informed me that the stream
called by our guides the Legerette is in fact the Nemaha; and
that the streams called by Fremont, Great and Little Nemahas -
are the waters of Turkey Creek, and flow into the Blue to the
north of the road. A section of about one hundred feet high, in
a ravine on the south side of the river, showed the strata to be
horizontal from north to south, with a hip of ten degrees to the
west. The order of superposition was as follows :—Lower, most visi-
ble, red clay and sand; gray shales; blue limestone; gray limestone,
and flint; white sandstone. They all contained fossils except the
clay. <A species of mallowand @nothera occurred on the bot-
toms of the streams, with Digitalis and Loasanitida. Phlox, once
abundant, is becoming scarce.
Monday, June 11.—Bar. 28.56; Ther. 65°. At half-past five
o'clock, a most violent storm of wind and rain set in, and raged
with great fury for three hours. The tents were prostrated, and
the baggage much wetted by the rain. Several large trees were
blown down, and one fell across an emigrant wagon close by us.
The owners, who had sought refuge in it from the tempest, narrowly
escaped with their lives. About nine, it cleared, and the tents were
raised to allow them todry. Hight miles from the Blue, we struck
the emigration road from Independence. Here we found a com-
pany of seventy or eighty persons, with some twenty wagons, ou
their way to California, among whom I recognised several former
compagnons de voyage on the Missouri. After crossing Ketchum’s
Creek, encamped a short distance to the right of the road,
QA ~ FROM FORT LEAVENWORTH TO FORT KEARNY.
on one of the head branches of Turkey Creek, the channel
of which appeared to be cut deeply into the detritus of a sand-—
stone slightly ferruginous. Near the Blue, the highest rock ob-
served was ferruginous sandstone, and during the day an imper-
fect section exposed shaly limestone and white sandstone. Our
course has lately been rising with the country, and we have been
traversing a sort of plateau, having, however, no very marked
ridges; but being intersected in all directions by ravines, the sides
of which have but a moderate slope and little fall, with water
standing in pools. Passed six graves to-day. Day’s march, se-
venteen and a-quarter miles.
Tuesday, June 12.—Bar. 28.64; Ther. 63°. Breakfast at four.
In ten and a half miles crossed the west branch of Turkey Creek,
and halted to noon on the bank of Wyeth’s Creek, six miles be-
yond. The crossing here is bad and rocky, and the grass poor,
having been eaten close by the trains which had preceded us.
The afternoon was oppressively hot and close, the wind being
from the eastward, with every appearance of rain. We have been
in company with multitudes of emigrants the whole day. The
road has been lined to a long extent with their wagons, whose
white covers, glittering in the sunlight, resembled, at a distance,
ships upon the ocean. We passed a company from Boston, con-
sisting of seventy persons, one hundred and forty pack and riding
mules, a number of riding horses, and a drove of cattle for beef.
The expedition, as might be expected, and as is too generally the
case, was badly conducted: the mules were overloaded, and the man-
ner of securing and arranging the packs elicited many a sarcastic
criticism from our party, most of whom were old and experienced
mountain-men, with whom the making up of a pack and the load-
ing of a mule amounted to a science. We passed also an old
Dutchman, with an immense wagon, drawn by six yoke of cattle,
and loaded with household furniture. Behind, followed a covered
cart containing the wife, driving herself, and a host of babies—
the whole bound to the land of promise, of the distance to which,
however, they seemed to have not the most remote idea. To the
tail of the cart was attached a large chicken-coop, full of fowls;
two milch-cows followed, and next came an old mare, upon the
back of which was perched a little, brown-faced, barefooted girl,
not more than seven years old, while a small sucking colt brought
up the rear. We had occasion to see this old gentleman and his
saravan frequently afterward, as we passed and repassed each
STORM ON THE PRAIRIE. 95
other, from time to time, on the road. The last we saw of him
was on the Sweetwater, engaged in sawing his wagon into two
parts, for the purpose of converting it into two carts, and in dispos-
ing of every thing he could sell or give away, to lighten his load.
(Enothera, with its bright yellow flowers, was frequent in the
landscape, both to-day and yesterday, with Amorpha and Artemi-
_ sta. The prairie-rose is becoming quite abundant.
Near Wyeth’s Creek, a section showed the upper rocks, near the
top of a ridge, to consist of dark ferruginous sandstone, under
which were white clayey shales, the soil being formed principally
by decomposed sandstone.
After travelling twenty-six miles, we encamped on the level bank
of Walnut Creek—a tributary of the Little Blue, with a tolerable
supply of grass and water. Near this encampment, a small section
showed the formation to consist of red sandstone, apparently hori-
zontal, very friable, and containing traces of organic remains, but
none recognisable. Under the sandstone were traces of shale,
light-coloured and very sandy. Black iron-ore was discovered in
the sandstone.
Wednesday, June 18.—About two o’clock in the morning, the
camp was suddenly aroused by the bursting upon it of a most fu-
rious storm. ‘The wind blew a hurricane, the rain fell in torrents,
while the thunder and lightning were terrible and incessant. For-
_ tunately the camp had been pitched in a sheltered spot, or 1t must
have been entirely blown away by the tempest: as it was, the
tents were prostrated by the wind, and preserved with much dif-
ficulty. Our men were exposed to all its fury for several hours.
At length, however, the sky partially cleared, but the lowering
enemy seemed still to linger, as if meditating another attack. The
morning proved exceedingly hot and close; the barometer con-
tinued to fall. Our poor mules having been picketed within the
lines all night, and consequently exposed to the storm, seemed
dejected, tired, and hollow; and altogether the camp seemed
weary and dispirited. The weather looked so very doubtful that
we did not move until half-past two o’clock; the men being until
then engaged in drying their bedding, which had been thoroughly
soaked by the rain. An immense number of black beetles and
other insects swarmed around the camp last evening. Attracted
by the light, they annoyed us beyond measure, and could be heard
all night, pattering against the tents like large drops of rain in a
heavy shower. , |
26 FROM FORT LEAVENWORTH TO FORT KEARNY.
Amorpha, Commelina, and Artemisia are still abundant, but the
phlox is disappearing. In the bottom of the creek a species of
larkspur and wild-onion abound; our men used the latter freely,
and we found them quite palatable in flavourmg our bean-soup.
Shortly after resuming the march, we reached the dividing height
between a tributary of Hmigrant’s Creek and Sandy Creek, another
affluent of the Little Blue. The view here was extensive and very
beautiful. The Sandy and its numerous small tributaries could
be distinctly traced in all their sinuous courses, by their dense
bordering foliage, now turned up by the wind, and contrasting
strongly with the encircling bluffs that stood out against the sky,
without a single bush or twig to relieve the sight. Indeed, the ap-
pearance of a tree, in all these regions of naked prairie, is to the
traveller a certain indication of the presence of water; and in con--
sequence, numerous tracks are to be seen, leading off from the main
road to some sheltered and sequestered grove, affording the wel-
come indulgence of shade, wood, water, and grass to the weary
emigrant and his still more wearied beasts. Elsewhere, during the
long fatiguing day, shade there is none; unless, indeed, it be be-
neath his wagon, which to him is literally his home. In it he car-
ries his all, and it serves him as tent, kitchen, parlour, and bed-
room, and not unfrequently as a boat, to ferry his load over an
otherwise impassable stream. Many have no other shelter from
the storm during the whole journey, and most of these vehicles are
extremely tight, roomy, and comfortable. Encamped after a short
march of five miles, on the right bank of the Sandy. In the after-
noon we met four men from Fort Laramie, who informed us that a
large band of some six hundred Pawnees had become so very trou-
blesome to the emigrants between the Blue and Fort Kearny, that
a force had been despatched from that post to drive them off. A
small party had also been discovered afew miles back, lurking
under a cliff of rocks, a short distance south of the road, doubtless
on the watch for another chance to steal our horses. We were on
our guard, however. The camp was formed by drawing the wagons
into a semi-circle, resting on the stream, with the tents pitched
alternately between them, except those of the officers, which were
placed on the bank and faced the enclosure. Within this all the
animals were carefully picketed, and a strong guard, well armed,
set at dusk. ‘These precautions doubtless saved us from molesta-
tion. The formation to-day consisted of white and red sandstones,
principally the latter, being evidently the sandstone formation
LITTLE SANDY—-VALLEY OF THE LITTLE BLUE. 27
above the carboniferous series. The white sandstone was very
fossiliferous.
Thursday, June 14.—Ther. at sunrise, 66°; Bar. 28.58.
Heavy dew; wind N. W., quite fresh and cool. Leaving Little
Sandy, the road follows the ridge between it and the Little Blue,
over decomposed red sandstone. Halted to noon on the right
bank of the Big Sandy, a tolerably bold stream when the water is
high; but at present it stands only in pools, on a bed of white sand two
hundred feet in width. The afternoon march was on the south side
of the ridge, which forced us to cross the heads of numerous ravines
and sma!] runs putting into the Blue, upon one of which we encamped,
having accomplished twenty-one miles. We met to-day, for the
first time, several new plants, indicating an approach to regions of
a different and less fertile character than those we had hitherto
traversed. The aloe and the prickly-pear were found in the sand-
hills, as were the Commelina and the saxifrage. The prairie-rose,
Amorpha, Hinothera, and Artemisiaabound. A blue lupine and a
white mallow were also gathered.
In the afternoon we met Major Belger, of the quartermaster’s
department, on his return from Fort Kearny, with an escort of
dragoons. He had fallen in with a band of five hundred Pawnees,
who, however, did not attack him. He confirmed the rumour that
a force had been sent from the fort after them. A fight had taken
place on the north side of the Platte, between the Indians and
two parties of emigrants, in which the former were defeated, with
the loss of their chief, five others killed, and six wounded; the
whites having one man wounded and a horse killed. A large
number of plover were seen to-day.
Monday, June 18.—Bar. 28.138; Ther. 86°. We have been
travelling for the last three days up the valley of the Little Blue.
Where we first struck it, the stream is eighty feet wide, apparently
deep, very crooked, with a swift current. It is fringed, sometimes
on one side, sometimes on the other, with a narrow belt of cotton-
wood and willows. The valley presents a tolerably uniform ap-
pearance, bounded by ridges, seldom more than a mile or two apart,
the intervening bottoms sloping gradually down to the river. The
grass 1s generally very abundant, and préle (the common scouring-
rush) is found in great plenty. Our mules ate it with avidity.
In the morning we passed a government ox-train, laden with
provisions for the new post about to be established in the neigh-
bourhood of Fort Hall. It consisted of thirty-one heavy wagons,
28 FROM FORT LEAVENWORTH TO FORT KEARNY.
four hundred oxen, (five or six yoke to each team,) and about forty
men. At night the wagons are drawn into a circle, in the open
plain, away from any covert, and chained together by the wheels,
leaving a small space. The cattle are driven, after feeding, into
the enclosure thus formed, when the aperture is closed for the
night, and a guard set. A very formidable little field-work is thus
easily and rapidly constructed. In the morning and middle of the
day the cattle are turned loose to graze, and a day-guard is de-
tailed for their protection. This is the general mode adopted by
' travellers on the plains for the security of themselves and their
property.
The valley of the Little Blue has not presented any great novelty
in the way of flowers. The only new plants met with have been a
lupine, the flower of which, of a bright purple, rises directly from
the root; the plant is totally leafless. A splendid variety of the
mallow, of a bright carmine colour, its trailing stems sending up
flowers in little patches of a few yards square, presented a rich and
beautiful appearance, enlivening the monotony of the prairie by its
brilliant hues. The aloe occurred in some places in abundance ;
and there were a few cacti, and a species of a leguminous plant
was met with, having a flower of a pale purple colour, resembling
a vetch; also a species of pale blue digitalis.
Bestercs being Sunday, was devoted to rest. Most of the
people, however, availed themselves of the opportunity to take a
hunt, as we had killed no game up to this time. In fact, we had had
no opportunity, the game having been driven from the vicinity of
the travelled route by the unintermitted stream of emigration which
had already passed over the road. The result of their efforts was
accordingly not very magnificent, the whole party bringing in only
a duck, a musk-rat, a large snapping-turtle, and one miserably poor
little antelope. The constant use of salt meat, without vegetables,
had affected us all with a cutaneous irritation, to be allayed only
by the use of fresh meat; and hence the arrival of this antelope,
poor as it was, was hailed by our voyageurs with lively satisfaction.
The little carcass was cut up and divided among the several messes,
a portion being sent to our travelling companions; and it was
amusing to see how soon every one was sedulously engaged in pre-
paring this most welcome addition to our usual homely fare. The
scene was picturesque: the camp-fires blazed in every direction,
while around each might be seen a busy little group, boiling, roast-
ing, and baking, in happy anticipation of their venison dinner ; the
VALLEY OF THE PLATTE. 29
mules, meanwhile, filled to repletion with the rich grass of the
prairie, lay stretched and rolling upon the grass in lazy enjoyment,
exempt for one happy day from the harness and the whip.
After travelling up the Blue for about twelve miles, we left it
and crossed the ridge dividing its waters from those of the Ne-
braska or Platte River. The character of this ridge is that of an
extensive level plateau, or table, with slight undulations: the
soil is composed of sand and clay, having occasionally water stand-
ing on it in pools, which, however, are dry most of the summer.
On arriving at the western edge of the plateau, the country became
more elevated, and presented a range of small hills of a sandy
reddish clay, with a sharp outline toward the river, forming the
«‘coast of the Nebraska,”’ and also constituting the bluff bounding
the river valley on the south. From this elevated position the valley
presented a lovely appearance. ‘The bottom was as level as a floor,
covered with short fresh grass of the richest green, without a
shrub or bush to interrupt the view. Beyond this verdant carpet
of two miles in breadth, flowed the river of which we had heard so
much, while a dense growth of large timber, covering Grand Island,
which lay immediately before us, formed a fit framework for this
lovely picture of calm and quiet beauty.
Archambault, our guide, told me that the last time he had passed
this spot, the whole of the immense plain, as far as the eye could
reach, was black with herds of buffalo. Now, not so much as one
is to be seen; they have fled before the advancing tide of emi-
gration. Driven from their ancient and long-loved haunts, these
aboriginal herds, confined within still narrowing bounds, seem
destined to final extirpation at the hand of man. ‘The prairie
bottom of the Platte is here elevated but a very few feet above the
river in its present stage, which, however, is higher than usual.
The appearance of the water is precisely that of the Mississippi and
Missouri, of a muddy white, and its current is, like theirs, con-
stantly boiling and eddying in restless turbulence. It is quite
shallow, as its name, both in Indian and French, indicates, so that
I found no difficulty in riding my mule over to the island, at the
head of which we encamped for the night, after a march of thirty-
two miles.
In the course of the morning we passed the remains of a Pawnee
village, recently abandoned. The band to which it belonged was
probably the same before mentioned as having been driven off by
the troops from Fort Kearny. Near it, several large mushrooms,
30 FROM FORT LEAVENWORTH TO FORT KEARNY.
the first we had seen, were found. Cacti were met-.with during
the day, also the purple mallow, as well as a small red species, the
perfume of which is very sweet, resembling that of heliotrope.
Dwarf Artemisia was also abundant. The measured distance from
Fort Leavenworth to this point, by the usually travelled route, is
two hundred and ninety-six miles.
Tuesday, June 19.—Ther. at 5 o’clock, 70°. Men and animals
much fatigued by the journey of yesterday. We travelled up
the Platte fifteen miles, and encamped within two miles of Fort
Kearny, on the bank of the river, for the sake of water and grass.
Wood for cooking could be procured only by wading the river, and
bringing it from the opposite side on the shoulders of the men.
After encamping, rode up to the fort, and called upon the com-
manding officer, Colonel Bonneville, whose adventures among the
Rocky Mountains are so well known to the world. He received
us very courteously, offering us every facility in his power in
furtherance of our progress. We remained at this post until the
afternoon of the 21st, to recruit the mules, get many of them shod,
and to procure such necessary supplies as could be obtained. The
post at present consists of a number of long low buildings, con-
structed principally of adobe, or sun-dried bricks, with nearly flat
roofs; a large hospital-tent; two or three workshops, enclosed by
canvas walls; storehouses constructed in the same manner; one or
two long adobe stables, with roofs of brush; and tents for the accom-
modation of the officers and men. There are stationed here two com-
panies of infantry and one of dragoons. I was told that the hail-
storms had been very frequent this season and quite destructive,
cutting down the weeds and stripping the trees of their foliage.
Lieutenant Gunnison being still quite feeble, and unable to ride
on horseback, I purchased for his use a little spring-carriage,
which had been left here by a party of emigrants. Such abandon-
ments are very common; most of these sanguine and adventurous
companies, by the time they get thus far, beginning to find out that
they have started on their journey with more than they can con-
trive to carry. In order to lighten their load, most of them dis-
_pose of every thing they can possibly spare, and at almost any price...
‘Flour and bacon, for example, had been sold as low as one cent
per pound; and many, being unable to sell even at that price, had
used their meat for fuel. The pack company from Boston, which
had passed us on the route, and which we found encamped here on
our arrival, left before our departure. As they had been entirely
FORT KEARNY. 1
unaccustomed to the operation of packing, their mules, as was to be
expected, were in a most horrible condition, with galled backs and
sides that made one shudder to behold. The proper mode of
arranging the load of these suffering animals is an art taught only
by experience. ‘These people, though belonging to a race famous
for foresight and calculation, had, like others from less thrifty and
managing portions of the Union, been selling and giving away all
they could dispense with. While encamped here we have had
several severe thunder storms, accompanied with heavy rains and
violent winds.
CHAPTER II.
FROM FORT KEARNY TO FORT LARAMIE.
Thursday, June 21.—Having taken leave of our kind and
hospitable friends at the fort, we overtook our own train, which
had been sent ahead in the morning, and found them encamped on
the bank of the Platte, after a drive of twenty-five miles. Lieu-
tenant Gunnison, who had gone before in his little wagon, by
some means missed the camp in the darkness, and did not arrive,
which gave me no little uneasiness, lest the exposure should prove
detrimental in his very delicate state of health. We discovered,
however, in the morning, that he had found good quarters at an
emigrant encampment on the road.
The character of the Platte valley for the last forty miles is
that of a flat prairie, composed of sand and clay, in which, when
the latter predominates, water is found standing in small pools,
but when the sand is most abundant, the water passes through it
like a sieve and is quite drained away. Hence we have passed
innumerable little wells, dug to a depth of from two to four feet.
The water is generally clear and cool, but much of the sickness on
this route has been attributed to its use. The soil thrown out is
sandy, though not unfrequently having a mixture of clay. The
water thus obtained is evidently the result of infiltration from
the higher levels or bluffs, which, in this hidden manner, discharge
their surplus moisture into the river. The bluffs on the opposite
side of the river, near Fort Kearny, are apparently formed of
32 FROM FORT KEARNY TO FORT LARAMIE.
pure sand, and are much higher, and appear to be more wooded,
than on the south side of the stream. About twenty miles above
the fort, the character of the bluffs on the south side seemed
changed, and presented a more gradual slope to the river; the
soil contained more clay, and, at a distance of a mile back from
their escarpment, they were cut up by constant ravines with banks
precipitous and, in some instances, perpendicular. In one spot,
such was the tenacity of the soil, that an upright mass of earth in
the form of a column had been left by the waters. Here were
found fossils of a character similar to those obtained at the point
where we first entered the valley: they were, however, in a very
friable and decomposed state.
Sunday, June 24.—Bar. 27.56; Ther. 83. Our journey for
the last two days has been up the valley of the Platte, which, in
some places, is more than a mile in width. From one spot I
counted upward of twenty islands, which, being densely covered
with green willows and cotton-woods, presented, in contrast with
the naked monotonous country through which we were passing, a
perfect picture of refreshing beauty. From the fact that the
islands in the river are, for the most part, covered with trees, the
almost total absence of this feature in the landscape of the valley |
must be attributed, in part at least, to the fires which periodically
sweep over the country in the autumn, destroying every thing be-
fore them. On our return by this same route, in the fall of 1850,
the country, for more than three hundred miles, had been com-
pletely devastated by these conflagrations, insomuch that our ani-
mals came near perishing for want of herbage. The north side
of the river does not appear to suffer so much from this cause;
which may, in part, arise from the direction of the prevailing winds.
Encamped on the bank of the Platte, fifty-six miles above Fort
Kearny. The bluffs bounding the valley were of clayey soil, cut
up by deep ravines, in many instances nearly perpendicular, their
character becoming bolder as we advanced. ‘The soil is richer and
contains more clay. ‘The plants seen were Tradescantia, the
purple mallow, (the root of which resembles the parsnip, and is
used by the Indians for food,) the small yellow Gnothera, and a
pretty, small stellate-flowered plant. Over large portions of the
bottom, no flowers were met with; on the high ground, red mallow,
Mimosa, Linum, a white Mimulus, and a sort of larkspur. The
aloe was flowering in abundance on the face of some very steep
bluffs.
FOSSIL REMAINS—FORKS OF THE PLATTE. oo
Monday, June 25.—Ther. at sunrise, 64°; Bar. 27.52. The
bluffs on our left, which are about two miles distant, are assuming
a much more broken appearance than heretofore, being cut up into
peaks and ridges in the most picturesque manner. Upon exa-
mination they were found to be composed of sandy clay, intersected
by precipitous ravines, the sections of which presented strata
slightly differing in colour and hardness. The fossils collected
were some teeth, apparently of an animal of the lizard tribe, and
the femur either of a bird or a small lizard; the head of the
bone and nearly the entire shaft measured three and a-half inches,
but the latter crumbled on removing it. Both of these were found
in place. Remains also were seen of what appeared to be bones,
fully four or five inches in circumference, but in so friable a state
that it was impossible to remove them from their matrix or accu-
rately to determine their form. Other fossils were found, but in
a very imperfect state. The sections showed that the strata were
perfectly conformable to those already passed, the dip being about
12° to the south-west, and the north-west sections horizontal. These
deep and precipitous ravines are doubtless the result, on an ex-
tended scale, of the action of water, and satisfactorily explain the
muddy character of the Platte and the Missouri, into which wash-
ings from these bluffs have been carried for ages.
Tuesday, June 26.—In the morning we crossed the dry bed of a
small stream having its banks well covered with trees, the first we
had met with since entering the valley of the Platte, now a dis-
tance of one hundred miles. In the afternoon we overtook the
pack-train of the Boston company, which had left Fort Kearny
the day before we did. They had seen about a hundred buffaloes
crossing the river, and having succeeding in killing one, were no
little elated at their good luck. We had not as yet been so fortu-
nate as to discover a single one, a circumstance that proved a
source of great annoyance to our hunters, in whose mind the asso-
ciation of “the plains’’ with buffalo-meat was fixed and inseparable,
and who, consequently, by no means relished their almost exclu-
sive confinement to salt pork. They were now on the gui vive,
anxiously anticipating the feasts to which they had constantly
looked forward. No buffalo however, were seen to-day, the herds
having been frightened from the road.
Eneamped six miles above the point of junction of the two forks
of the Platte, on the bank of a small stream of running water
with a sandy bottom, the first that had blessed our vision since
3
34 FROM FOR® KEARNY TO FORT LARAMIE.
leaving the Blue. This little creek, running parallel with the
South Fork, winds its very sinuous way, without bank or shrub or
bush to mark its course, until it discharges its waters into the
river several miles below. The bluffs on our left continue to pre-
sent the same wild forms, being also clothed in many places with
trees, among which the white-cedar appeared to predominate.
Owing to the sandy nature of the soil, no fossils were found in a
perfect state, except two varieties of shells: some imperfect re-
mains of teeth were also seen, but in too frail a condition to be pre-
served. About six miles below the Forks, the bluffs presented a
rougher appearance than those passed early in the day. The prin-
cipal ravines did not appear to extend very far back, but were of
considerable width, and intersected by others which came into them
from every direction. Their sides were very steep, rising in some
cases to the height of two hundred feet; and so entirely was the
surface of the ground intersected and cut up, that it was difficult
to find a spot of even a few yards square that did not enter into
the formation of some one of them. The prodigious quantity of
earth that has been removed by the action of water cannot be ima-
gined without witnessing the scene here presented. The soil com-
posing the hills, although mixed more or less with clay, is sandy,
and beetle assumes the character of a very friable sandstone.
Opposite the Forks, however, the formation of the bluffs again
alters, and begins to assume a more undulatory and less precipi-
tous appearance, not so much traversed by ravines. This change
is occasioned by the cropping out of a stratum of a whitish sand-
stone. The bluffs passed to-day must, at a period long back, have
extended much closer to the river than where we now find them,
having, in fact, been gradually washed into it, leaving the valley
much broader, and, to a certain extent, one of denadsiaaa
Carduus, ee with a large pieleiginegicien: yellow flower, Amor-
pha, Tradescantia, a small sunflower, and a species of milk-plant
were here found. The Amorpha is beginning to bloom. The vetch,
with its purple clusters, is met with, but seems of a different species
from that seen heretofore, and has not so much foliage.
Wednesday, June 27.—To-day the hunters killed their first buf-
falo; but, in order to obtain it, had to diverge some four or five
miles from the road, and to pass back of the bluffs, the instinct or
experience of these sagacious animals having rendered them shy
of approaching the line of travel. This has not always been the
case, for it is a well-attested fact, that when the emigration first
BUFFALO ON THE PLAINS. 35
commenced, travelling trains were frequently detained for hours
by immense herds crossing their track, and in such numbers that
it was impossible to drive through them. In many instances it was
quite difficult to prevent their own loose cattle from mingling with
the buffaloes, of which they did not seem to be at all afraid. The
eyes of our French voyageurs fairly glistened as they rode into camp
laden with the meat, and their arrival was hailed with a general
shout of congratulation. The long-desired spoil was soon divided,
and a busy scene ensued of roasting, boiling, and making boudin,
which is a sort of sausage, boiled and eaten hot: when skilfully
prepared, it forms a most excellent dish. Huge marrow-bones
might now be seen roasting most temptingly by fires madeof bods de
vache, and a new spirit seemed to be infused into the entire party
by this return to their favourite diet. Although, in such a com-
pany, it would have been rank treason to utter the opinion, yet I
could not help thinking at the time, that the fat of this meat, which
our men were devouring with so much gusto, had a somewhat rank
and disagreeable flavour; and I must, in truth, confess that I was
not a little disappointed by a dish of which I had received such
glowing accounts. I found afterward, indeed, that such was the
opinion, not only of us green ones, but even of our mountain con-
noisseurs themselves, although, at the time, they did all they could
to persuade us that it was most excellent; for the animal killed
was a ‘bull,’’ whose flesh is eaten only when no other can be ob-
tained, whence the males are very seldom killed when the “ cows”
can be procured.
The rock, where it cropped out in the bluffs, was composed of
white or gray sandstone, similar to that previously passed ; in some
places strata of an ochreous marl were met with, and in one spot,
twelve miles above the Forks, astratum of gypsum. The fossils
were in too imperfect a state to be identified. The small sunflower
was seen in great abundance, and also buffalo-grass. Innumerable
buffalo-trails were crossed, leading from the river through the ra-
vines between the bluffs, to the country beyond, some of which
were well beaten, and pressed nearly a foot deep into the soil.
- Thursday, June 28.—Morning bright and pleasant. Ther. at
sunrise, 59°; Bar. 27.18. The day proved fine, notwithstanding
the threatening appearance of rain last night, with a cool and
refreshing wind from the north. The Boston train, which had
kept ahead of us, was seen crossing the South Fork—an operation
which they effected apparently without difficulty ; but I preferred
36 FROM FORT KEARNY TO FORT LARAMIRE.
to follow still further the main road, which soon led us up one of
those points of heavy sand-bluffs which here put down directly to
the river, being cut up in the most fantastic manner by precipitous,
wide, and abrupt ravines of white sand. Keeping back of the
heads of these, we again turned down to the river, and halted to
noon on the bank of the Platte. To-day, buffalo were seen from
the road, for the first time, feeding in large detached herds, seat-
tered over the prairies like huge droves of cattle. The sight, to
those of us who had never beheld these animals, was exceedingly
interesting, and reminded me of the herds I had seen spread for
miles over the lovely and fertile valley of Mad River, in Ohio.
There must have been several thousands within our view, grazing in
peaceful security. The effect upon our hunters, and, in fact, upon
the whole party, was that of sudden and most intense excitement,
and a yearning, feverish desire to secure as much as possible of
this noble game. Archambault, the guide, had started early in the
morning for the bluffs to hunt, taking with him another man, both
mounted. About two o’clock they returned, loaded down with the
choice pieces of three fat cows, which they had killed. After we
had advanced a mile on the afternoon’s march, a large band of
these animals was discovered directly ahead and near the road.
The opportunity was too tempting to be resisted. There was no
prospect of getting buffalo above, as they were evidently travelling
south; and I determined therefore, to remain where we were during
this and the following day, and to send out and secure as much
meat as possible before crossing the South Fork. <A halt was ac-
cordingly made at once, the hunters sent forward, and the afternoon
occupied in drying the meat brought in during the morning. Our
men, however, failed in approaching the great herd before they
took the alarm and vanished. The result of to-day’s work, never-
theless, was five killed, of which four were secured and brought
into camp. On the succeeding day three more were killed. The
flesh thus obtained was forthwith cut into thin strips, dried over a
fire on a willow frame, and packed into sacks for future use.
Saturday, June 30.—Ther. at sunrise, 61°; Bar. 27.03; with
heavy fog. The road, all the morning, continued at the foot of
the gently sloping bluff of the Platte, with a wide level bottom,
the uniformity of its surface unbroken by a single bush. A large
island was passed, of about six miles in length, by two and a-half
in width, level as a floor, with here and there a clump or grove of
timber on either margin. A small herd of buffalo was descried in
PRAIRIE-DOG VILLAGE. 3T
the river, wading about among some small islands in search of
grass.
We passed to-day through a large village or settlement of the
prairie-dog, (Arctomys ludovictana,) extending in length not less
than half a mile. These little animals are very shy, and, at the
_ least approach of a stranger, hie themselves with all speed to their
holes, in which they partly bury their bodies, leaving only their
heads visible just above the surface of the ground, where, so long
as the alarm lasts, they keep up a continual barking. The note
somewhat resembles the bark of a small puppy, but is nevertheless
so peculiar as to be instantly recognised ever afterward, by any
one who has once distinctly heard it. They are very hard to get,
as they are never found far from their holes; and when shot, fall
immediately into them, where they are generally guarded by a
rattlesnake—the usual sharer of their subterranean retreat. Several
were shot by us in this situation, but when the hand was about to
be thrust into the hole to draw them out, the ominous rattle of
this dreaded reptile would be instantly heard, warning the intruder
of the danger he was about to incur. A little, white, burrowing
owl also (Stryx cunicularia) is frequently found taking up his
abode in the same domicile; and this strange association of rep-
tile, bird, and beast seem to live together in perfect harmony
and peace. I have never personally seen the owl thus housed, but
have been assured of the fact from so many, so various, and so
credible sources, that I cannot doubt it. The whirr of the rattle-
snake I have heard frequently when the attempt was made to in-
vade these holes, and our men at length became afraid to approach
them for this purpose. |
The march, to-day, was prolonged to an unusually late hour, as
T was in hopes of reaching the ford of the South Fork before night, but
finding this impracticable, we encamped on the bank of the river
where the prairie was hard and level, with plenty of excellent grass
and water. With the exception of a few small willows growing on
the opposite side, and a large cotton-wood or two a few miles up
the river, serving to mark the point for crossing, no trees were to
be seen. We were fortunate enough, however, to find three or
four old lodge-poles, left by a passing band of Sioux, which, eked
out by bots de vache for fuel, served to give us a capital roast of
buffalo-meat, which, wearied as we were by a march of fourteen
hours in the burning sun, proved a most welcome and acceptable
refreshment.
38 , FROM FORT KEARNY TO FORT LARAMIE.
The formation over which we have passed the last two days has
been composed of beds of sand and sandy shales. No rock has
been met with; and wherever a section of the soil was obtained,
it presented layers of sand containing small proportions of argilla-
ceous matter. The general profile of the hills is rounded and un-
dulatory. Rock, apparently in regular strata, is to be seen in the
opposite bluffs, which are bolder and approach the river more
nearly than on the south side.
Sunday, July 1.—Ther. at 9 o’clock, 81°; Bar. 26.74. The day
being very warm and fine, advantage was taken of it to dry more
thoroughly the meat we wished to preserve. Our breakfast this
morning, which was spread out on the ground, with a piece of In-
dia-rubber cloth for a table, under the shade of one of the wagon-
covers, consisted, for five persons, of two buffalo-tongues and the
hump of a fat cow, nearly the whole of which was consumed. The
flesh of a fat buffalo-cow is perhaps the best beef that can be eaten,
wholly free from the rank flavour which marks the fat of the male:
it is at once juicy, tender, nutritious, and very digestible, added to
which it has a game flavour which renders it far superior to the
very best beef of the States. It may, in fact, be not improperly
denominated «game beef.”
This was the first time that any of my mess had partaken of that
famous dish, the « hump,” and the quantity disposed of was the best
proof of the intense relish with which it was enjoyed. ‘This and
the tongue, tender-loin, bass, and marrow-bones are considered the
choice parts of the carcass, and, where the animals are plenty, no
other parts are taken, the residue being left on the ground for the
wolves. Some idea may be formed of the great digestibility of
this species of food, as well as of the enormous quantities de-
voured at a single meal, from the fact that the regular daily allow-
ance or ration for one employee in the Fur Company’s service is
eight pounds, the whole of which is often consumed. It is true,
however, that an old mountaineer seldom eats any thing else. If
he can get a cup of strong coffee, with plenty of sugar, and as
much buffalo-meat as he can devour, he is perfectly happy and con-
tent, never feeling the want either of bread or vegetables.
A partial examination was made to-day of the north bank of
the river. The rocks which had attracted attention yesterday
were distant about four hundred yards from the stream and very
much weathered, presenting a broken surface, owing to some of
the strata having disintegrated faster than others. The perpen-
CROSSING OF THE SOUTH FORK OF THE PLATTE. | 39
dicular section of the rocks was seen in place. The bluff was in-
tersected by ravines, many of which also exposed vertical sections.
The strata were nearly horizontal, with perhaps a slight slip to the
west, and very fossiliferous, some of them being composed of en-
crinital remains. The hills were about one hundred and fifty feet
in height, and consisted of the following strata:—On the surface, a
yellow shale, containing encrinites and grit; layers of loose detri-
tus and quartzose conglomerate; brown shale and sand, the former
containing wood and bones; white sandstone, the exposed surface
marked by ripples; calcareous sandstone; sandy limestone, com-
posed principally of remains of stems of encrinites, none of tke
central portions of which were found, (this layer was some feet
thick, and was traced fully a mile;) whitish sandstone; botryoidal
limestone. The fossils found were the remains of encrinites,
which were abundantly diffused through the different strata, with
the exception of the detritus. Some bones occurred, but in a very
imperfect state: a large flat bone was found imbedded in sundy
shale, and endeavours were made to get it out, which did not suc-
ceed. The part exposed presented a segment of a circle from
twelve to sixteen inches in diameter. About half a mile below
this point was a peak formed by large masses of encrinital lime-
stone; and at a point still lower down, the same formation was
Sand. the whole being crowned by a white marl, containing encri-
nites ome grit. At this pot were discovered the remains of the
bones of some large animal, only imperfect specimens of which
could be procured, for want of the means of extracting them.
One fragment was seen, fully seven inches in circumference; and a
tooth, exposed for a length of five inches, was broken in the
attempt to get it out. The condyle of the jaw and what was sup-
posed to be the foot of some reptile were secured.
Monday, July 2.—Ther. at sunrise, 68° ; Bar. 26.63. After tra-
velling up the river for fourteen miles, it was determined to make
the crossing of the South Fork by fording. In preparation for
this movement, one of the Wagons, as an experimental pioneer, was
partially llaaveds by removing all articles liable to injury from
water, and then deren into the stream; but it stuck fast, and the
ordinary team of six mules being fina insufficient to haul it
through the water, four more were quickly attached, and the cross-
ing was made with perfect safety, and without wetting any thing.
In the same manner were all the remaining wagons crossed, one
by one, by doubling the teams, and employing the force of nearly
40 FROM FORT KEARNY TO FORT LARAMIE.
the whole party wading alongside to incite and guide the mules,
lest, from some sudden eccentricity, to which those animals are so
constantly prone, a wagon might be capsized or precipitated into a
hole. The water was perfectly opake with thick yellow mud, and
it required all our care to avoid the quicksands with which the bot-
tom is covered. The labour was excessive, on both men and ani-
mals, as the river was nearly half a mile wide, and the current from
recent rains ran with great rapidity and force. Wading such a
stream_breast-deep four or five times, with such treacherous foot-
ing, was very exhausting, and we were glad to encamp, immedi-
ately after crossing, upon the left bank. Both man and beast suf-
fered more from this day’s exertion than from any day’s march we
had yet made. About one and a-half miles above the crossing a
new Indian lodge was seen standing entirely alone. A fact so
unusual excited our curiosity: upon going to the place, it was found
to contain the body of an Indian (probably a chief) raised upon a
low platform or bier, surrounded by all the implements believed
' by these simple children of the forest to be necessary for his use
in the spirit-land. The lodge was carefully and securely fastened
down at the bottom, to protect its charge from the wolves. It was
an affecting spectacle. His last battle fought, his last hunt over,
here he lay in the solitude of death, abandoned by wife and child,
and all he loved, yet surrounded by the tokens of thew parting
care, the rude proofs of a love that followed him to an unknown
hereafter. We are now, by our measurements, four hundred and
seventy-nine miles from Fort Leavenworth, and one hundred and
eighty from Fort Kearny. |
Tuesday, July 8.—Morning cool and delightful; Ther. at sun-
rise, 71°; Bar. 26.59; Wind S. W., fresh and bracing. To-day
we crossed the ridge between the North and South Forks of the
Platte, a distance of eighteen and a-half miles. As we expected to
find no water for the whole of this distance, the India-rubber bags
were filled with a small supply. The road struck directly up the bluff,
rising: quite rapidly at first, then very gradually for twelve miles,
when we reached the summit, and a most magnificent view saluted —
the eye. Before and below us was the North Fork of the Nebraska,
winding its way through broken hills and green meadows; behind
us the undulating prairie rising gently from the South Fork, over
which we had just passed; on our right, the gradual convergence
of the two valleys was distinctly perceptible; while immediately at
our feet were the heads of Ash Creek, which fell off suddenly into
ASH HOLLOW. Dia Al
deep: precipitous chasms on either side, leaving only a high nar-
row ridge, or backbone, which gradually descended, until, toward
its western termination, it fell off precipitately into the bottom of
the creek. Here we were obliged, from the steepness of the road,
to let the wagons down by ropes, but the labour of a dozen men
for a few days would make the descent easy and safe. The bot-
tom of Ash Creek is tolerably well wooded, principally with ash
and some dwarf cedars. The bed of the stream was entirely dry,
but toward the mouth several springs of delightfully cold and
refreshing water were found, altogether the best that has been
met with since leaving the Missouri. We encamped at the mouth
of the valley, here called Ash Hollow. The traces of the great
tide of emigration that had preceded us were plainly visible in
remains of camp-fires, in blazed trees covered with innumerable
names carved and written on them; but, more than all, in the total
absence of all herbage. It was only by driving our animals toa
ravine some distance from the camp, that a sufficiency for their sub-
sistence could be obtained.
The two slopes of the ridge dividing the main forks of the
Platte, at the point where we crossed it, differ from each other in
aremarkable manner. On that toward the South Fork, the val-
leys are wide and long, with gracefully curved lines, gentle slopes,
and broad hollows. In numerous instances, these hollows are
without drainage, owing to which large circular or oval basins are
formed, in the bottoms of which water collects, forming quite ex-
tensive ponds or lakes: these, however, disappear during the sum-
mer, leaving their beds clothed with a rich, luxuriant growth of
herbage. On the opposite side of the’summit the features of the
country present a striking contrast. Almost immediately after
crossing the point of “divide,” we strike upon the head waters of
Ash Creek, whence the descent is abrupt and precipitous. Imme-
diately at your feet is the principal ravine, with sides four or five
hundred feet in depth, clothed with cedar: into this numerous
other ravines run, meeting it at different angles, and so completely
cutting up the earth, that scarcely a foot of level ground could be
seen. The whole surface consisted of merely narrow ridges, divid-
ing the ravines from each other, and running up to so sharp a
crest that 1t would be difficult for any thing but a mountain-goat
to traverse their summits with impunity. «Never before had I seen
the wonderful effects of the action of water on a grand scale
more strikingly exemplified.
42 FROM FORT KEARNY TO FORT LARAMIE.
The soil on the top of the ravine seemed to consist of decom-
posed sand-rock, among which, however, were found some pieces -
of silicious limestone, with traces of encrinites. In one of the
lateral ravines, a complete section of the rock was obtained. It
was composed of layers of white sandstone, calcareous sandstone,
sand, sand and clay, and granitic and quartz detritus, cemented
by calcareous rocks. The only fossils found were the remains of
encrinites, which existed in almost all the strata; and in some the
quartzose portion of the rock was composed of their stems.
Toward the lower part of the gorge was a bed or layer of marl,
in which were the remains of what very much resembled the seeds
of a plant. All the strata were horizontal. On examining them
at the mouth of the hollow, on the following day, a stratum was
found of botryoidal limestone, consisting of oblong pieces of mag-—
nesian limestone, cemented by a calcareous rock, and also another
bed of sandy marl, containing remains of the seeds already men-
tioned, together with some oblong bodies, which were probably
those of encrinites. |
Heavy thunder, wind, and rain, during the night.
Wednesday, July 4.—At 9 a.M., Bar. 26.76; Ther. 68°. This
being a national festival, I determined to spend the day here and
celebrate it as well as our limited means would permit. A salute
was fired morning and evening, and a moderate allowance of grog
served out to the men, which, with a whole day’s rest and plenty
of buffalo-meat, rendered them quite happy. We had observed
yesterday, on the opposite side of the river, a number of Indian
lodges, pitched on the bank; but the total absence of any living or
moving thing about them induced us from curiosity to pay them a
visit. In order to do this it was necessary to cross the river, here
nearly a mile in breadth, with astrong, rapid current. I was afraid
to risk any of the animals, as the bottom was known to be very
treacherous and full of quicksands; so it was determined we
should wade it. Having stripped to our drawers, we tied our
shirts and moccasins around our necks to keep them dry, and, ac-
companied by five or six of the men, commenced the passage. The
water was up to our middle, and the strong and constant pressure
of the current rendered our efforts to bear up against it very
fatiguing. We struggled on, but very slowly, from the yielding
nature of the sandy and marly bottom, which was immediately
washed from beneath the foot every time it was placed on the
ground. If we stood still in the same spot, even for a short time,
‘SIOUX DEAD LODGES. 43
the bottom would be so rapidly excavated from beneath us, that a
hole of sufficient depth would be formed to render swimming ne-
cessary. After continuing these tedious and laborious efforts
until we had nearly reached the opposite shore, on advancing a
single step we found ourselves in water beyond our depth, (the
channel of the river running close to the bank,) and the shirts we
had so carefully endeavoured to keep dry were in a moment
thoroughly soaked. We made out, however, to scramble ashore.
I put on my moccasins, and, displaying my wet shirt, like a flag,
to the wind, we proceeded to the lodges which had attracted our
curiosity. There were five of them, pitched upon the open prairie,
and in them we found the bodies of nine Sioux, laid out upon the
ground, wrapped in their robes of buffalo-skin, with their saddles,
spears, camp-kettles, and all their accoutrements, piled up around
them. Some lodges contained three, others only one body, all of
which were more or less in a state of decomposition. A short dis-
tance apart from these was one lodge which, though small, seemed
of rather superior pretensions, and was evidently pitched with
great care. It contained the body of a young Indian girl of six-
teen or eighteen years, with a countenance presenting quite an
agreeable expression: ‘she was richly dressed in leggings of fine
scarlet cloth, elaborately ornamented; a new pair of moccasins,
beautifully embroidered with porcupine quills, was on her feet, and
her body was wrapped in two superb buffalo-robes, worked in like
manner. She had evidently been dead but a day or two; and to
our surprise a portion of the upper part of her person was bare,
exposing the face and a part of the breast, as if the robes in which
she was wrapped had by some means been disarranged, whereas all
the other bodies were closely covered up. It was, at the time, the
opinion of our mountaineers that these Indians must have fallen in
an encounter with a party of Crows; but I subsequently learned
that they had all died of the cholera, and that this young girl,
being considered past recovery, had been arrayed by her friends
in the habiliments of the dead, enclosed in the lodge alive, and
abandoned to her fate—so fearfully alarmed were the Indians by
this, to them, novel and terrible disease. But the melancholy tale
of this poor forsaken girl, does not end here. Her abandonment
_ by her people, though with inevitable death before her eyes, may
perhaps be excused from the extremity of*their terror; but what
will be thought of the conduct of men enlightened by Christianity,
and under no such excess of fear, who, by their own confession, ap-
44 FROM FORT KEARNY TO FORT LARAMIE.
proached and looked into this lodge while the forsaken being was’
yet alive, and able partially to raise herself up and look at them,
but who, with a heartlessness that disgraces human nature, turned
away, and, without an effort for her relief, left her alone to die!
Which company deserved the epithet of savages, the terrified and
flying red men, or the strong-hearted whites who thus consummated
their cruel deed?
Leaving this melancholy scene, we recrossed the river and re-
turned to our encampment, where preparations had been made for
a Fourth of July dinner. Although deprived of the vegetable luxu-
ries upon which our Hastern friends were doubtless feasting, still our
bill of fare would not have been unacceptable even to an epicure.
Buffalo-soup, buffalo-ribs, tender-loin, and marrow-bones roasted,
boiled ham, stewed peaches, and broiled curlew, relished with a couple
of bottles of cool claret, (which had beeen carefully preserved for
the occasion,) and crowned by a cup of coffee and a segar, made a
meal which, notwithstanding the cup was of tin and our table the
greensward, we thought not entirely unworthy of the day. In the
evening two men came into camp and requested our hospitality :
they had been emigrants, but were on their return to the States
disgusted, having fallen out with their company by the way.
Thursday, July 5th.—Bar. 26.67. Ther. 56°. We commenced
our journey to-day up the North Fork of the Platte. The road
winds along the bottom under the bluffs. The lower stratum con-
sists of yellow clay, capped by cliffs of sandstone and silicious
limestone, about two hundred feet in height. This formation was
traced uninterruptedly for about twenty miles. The limestone
appeared to contain no fossils—at least, none were discovered. To-
ward the end of the day’s march the clay was left uncovered by
the limestone, presenting bald eminences destitute of the least
vegetation, which, from the action of the weather, had been worn
into various curious and isolated peaks, of forms extremely pic-
turesque. Encamped on the bank of the river, after a tedious
march of twenty-three miles. Just above us, was a village of
Sioux, consisting of ten lodges. They were accompanied by Mr.
Badeau, a trader ; and, having been driven from the South Fork by
the cholera, had fled to the emigrant-road, in the hope of obtaining
medical aid from the whites. As soon as it was dark, the chief
and a dozen of the braves of the village came and sat down in a
semicircle around the front of my tent, and, by means of an in-
terpreter,, informed me that they would be very glad of a little
SIOUX VILLAGES—CHOLERA. . 45
coffee, sugar, or biscuit. I gave them what we could spare. They
told us there was another and larger band encamped about two
miles above, many of whom were very sick with the cholera: they
themselves had been afflicted with it, but had in a great measure
recovered, although they were in great dread of its return. As
soon as they were told I had a doctor, or ««medicine-man,’’ with me,
and received assurances that some medicines should be prepared
for them, and left with the trader, (who had married among them,)
they expressed much delight, and returned to their village, where,
soon after, the sound of the drum and the song, expressive of the
revival of hope, which had almost departed, resounded from the
«‘medicine lodge,’ and continued until a late hour of the night.
In the mean time, I directed a quantity of medicine to be prepared,
with the necessary directions for using it. The following morning
we paid a visit in passing, to the upper village, which contained
about two hundred and fifty souls. They were in the act of break-
ing up their encampment, being obliged to move farther up the
river to obtain fresh grass for their animals. A more curious,
animated, and novel scene I never witnessed. Squaws, papooses,
dogs, puppies, mules, and ponies, all in busy motion, while the
lordly, lazy men lounged about with an air of listless indifference,
too proud to render the slightest aid to their faithful drudges.
Before the lodge of each brave was erected a tripod of thin slender
poles about ten feet in length, upon which was suspended his
round white shield, with some device painted upon it, his spear,
and a buckskin sack containing his “medicine” bag. It reminded
me forcibly of the scenes of Ivanhoe and the Crusaders, and im-
pressed me with the singularity of the coincidence in the customs
of what were then the most refined nations of the world, with those
of these wild and untutored savages. The cholera had been quite
bad among them, and was still raging. I visited nearly every
lodge, in company with the doctor and Mr. Bissonette the trader,
and medicine was administered to all who required it. It was
touching to witness the moral effect produced by the mere presence
of a “‘medicine-man”’ upon these poor wretches. They swallowed
the medicine with great avidity, and an absolute faith in its efficacy,
which, I have little doubt, saved many a life that would otherwise
have been lost. I shall never forget one poor fellow, a tall, fine-
looking young man of about twenty-five. He had been sick three
days, and we found him sitting on the ground, his blanket drawn
closely around him, and his chin resting upon his knees, the
46 FROM FORT KEARNY TO FORT LARAMIE.
image of despair,—very quiet, but the expression of his countenance
showing that he had made up his mind that he must die. To add
to his despondence, a young man from the next lodge had just been
carried out and buried. The doctor examined him closely, and
then requested the interpreter to tell him that the worst was past,
and that, with care and attention, he would soon entirely recover.
Never did I behold any thing like the change which, in an instant,
came over the expressive countenance of this poor savage. His
face flushed, the fire came into his eyes, and a radiant smile of
confidence and hope, which was beautiful to behold, broke through
the previous gloom. He raised his eyes, till now sternly fixed
upon the ground, gently smote his hands together, turned his head
toward his squaw, who was standing behind him, and in a low and
silvery tone communicated to her the joyful news. It was to him
a perfect resurrection from the dead; for he seemed now to enter-
tain no doubt of his recovery, but received the assurance of the
doctor as if it had been the fiat of fate. It was a moving sight,
and although we could not understand a single word that passed,
the whole scene was perfectly intelligible. After administering to
all who stood in need, a quantity of medicine was left with Mr.
Bissonette, with the necessary directions.
The whole village was much revived by this visit from the
“cmedicine-man,’’ and expressed much thankfulness, and a strong
desire that he should remain among them. As this was obviously
impossible, we continued our journey, accompanied for several
miles by the people of both villages. The whole scene was unique
in the highest degree. ‘The road was strewn for miles with the
most motley assemblage I ever beheld, each lodge moving off from
the village as soon as its inhabitants were ready, without waiting
for the others. ‘The means of transportation were horses, mules,
and dogs. Four or five lodge-poles are fastened on each side of
the animal, the ends of which trail on the ground behind, like the
shafts of a truck or dray. On these, behind the horse, is fastened a
light framework, the outside of which consists of a strong hoop bent
into an oval form, and interlaced with a sort of network of rawhide.
Most of these are surmounted by a light wicker canopy, very like
our covers for children’s wagons, except that it extends the whole
length, and is open only at one side. Over the canopy is spread
a blanket, shawl, or buffalo-robe, so as to form a protection from
the sun or rain. Upon this light but strong trellice-work, they
place the lighter articles, such as clothing, robes, &c., and then
SIOUX MOVING. Av
pack away among these their puppies and papooses, (of both which
they seem to have a goodly number ;) the women, when tired of
walking, get upon them to rest and take care of their babies. The
elasticity of the poles makes the motion easy and pleasant. I
afterward saw an old Indian, that had been crippled in one of the
skirmishes which so often occur among these tribes, whose only
mode of locomotion was a contrivance of this kind, from which
he could not move without assistance.
The dogs also are made to perform an important part in this
shifting of quarters. Two short, light lodge-poles are fastened
together at the small end, and made to rest at the angle upon the
animal’s neck, the other end of course, trailing upon the ground.
Over his shoulders is placed a sort of pad, or small saddle, the
girth of which fastens the poles to his sides, and connects saith a
little collar or breast-strap. ‘Behind the rie a small platform or
frame is fastened to the poles, similar to that used for the horses,
upon which are placed lighter articles, generally puppies, re
are considered quite valuable, being raised for beasts of burden as
well as for food and the chase. Iwas informed by Mr. Bissonette,
that many tribes, having no horses or mules, use dogs altogether
in moving their villages. We saw a large number of these animals,
with their sharp noses and wolflike ears, thus harnessed, and
trotting along as if it were an occupation to which they were per-
fectly accustomed. The whole duty of taking down and putting
up the lodges, packing up, loading the horses, arranging the lodge-
poles, and leading or driving the animals, devolves upon the squaws,
while the men stalk along at their leisure; even the boys of larger
growth deeming it beneath their dignity to lighten the toils of their
own mothers.
The whole band halted about ten o’clock on the bank of the
river, but several of the old men and the chief of the village con-
tinued with us until our noon halt. I invited the latter to lunch
with us, which he did to his entire satisfaction, devouring as much
meat as the whole mess beside, and I afterward espied him seated
at one of the messes of the men, as earnestly engaged in laying in
an additional supply as if he had not eaten for a week. The In-
dian, in fact, from his wandering habits and uncertain mode of
existence, acquires the faculty of laying in, when opportunity offers
itself, a store of food against the fast that may follow, thus approxi-
mating the instincts of other wild denizens of the forest.
After crossing a few running streams, we encamped near a num-
48 FROM FORT KEARNY TO FORT LARAMIE.
ber of springs of soft, cold, sandstone water, which proved very
grateful after the hot ind dusty Journey of the day. —
The banks on this side of the river have presented little of inte-
rest, the surface generally consisting of rolling prairie, gradually
rising to the summit of the hills, which are at a considerable dis-
tance from the stream. On the opposite side, the cliffs are pre-
cipitous, displaying sections of horizontal beds of apparently the
same rock already noticed. About two miles from our noon halt
the rock was exposed close to the river and but little above its
level. It consisted of layers of sandstone, with detritus, magne-
sian limestone, sand, and clay. Some fossils were collected and
remains of encrinites were observed. On entering the bottom of
the North Fork, we found the white Znothera, alarge flower, grow-
ing with but a single flower-stem. Lupines are still found in con-
siderable numbers, together with phlox and some species of sun-
flower. The heads of the ravines were clothed with pine and
cedar. The growth of the latter tree appears to be diminishing ;
for while numerous dead trees lay strewn along the bottoms, but
few living ones were found growing on the hills.
Saturday, July T7.—Ther. at sunrise, 59°; Bar. 26.55. This
morning we caught a view of the celebrated «Chimney Rock,” and
also of the «‘ Court-house,’’ which latter consisted of two bald eleva-
tions, similar in formation to that already passed, to which the
voyageurs, most of whom are originally from St. Louis, had given
this name, from a fancied resemblance to a well-known structure in
their own city.
In riding out from the road to visit this curious formation, we
found the main bluff of the river to be about five miles distant, the
intervening country consisting of rolling hillocks covered with
grass. In our ride we crossed the dry sandy bed of a stream,
about two hundred and fifty feet in width, which, in the rainy
season, must discharge a large quantity of water. It had little or
no bank, and, from the appearance of drift-wood far out on the
prairie, must overspread a large surface in the spring. A mile
and a-half from this creek we came upon another, called on the
maps « Dry Creek,”’ but known among the mountain-men as « Law-
rence’s Fork,” from the fact that a man of that name had been
killed on it by the Sioux. The Court-house was but a few
hundred yards beyond this stream, which was about thirty feet
wide and two or three feet deep, flowing with a free, bold, and
tolerably rapid current: it had cut its bed through the blue clay,
COURT-HOUSE—LIGNITE. 49
with a few narrow layers of sand. I attempted to cross it, but the
bottom consisted of a stiff marly mud, into which the feet of the
animals sank rapidly, and could with difficulty be withdrawn.
Fearful of miring them down, I gave up the attempt, and thus lost
the opportunity of examining this celebrated seat of justice more
closely. Upon the bank, where we attempted to cross, I found a
large block of what proved to be lignite, and near by a lump of
-what was thought to be oolitic clay, from which several species of
fresh-water shells were taken. The lignite had evidently been
brought down by the creek, as many large masses of it were seen
lying in the water and strewn along the banks. Should this sub-
stance be found in any quantity in the hills to the south, it may
have a very important bearing upon the future settlement of this
region; one of the great obstacles to which, even when water
can be commanded, is the total absence of timber sufficient for
fuel. Could lignite be found in sufficient quantity for this purpose,
many spots in this extensive valley might be settled to advantage,
and would thus furnish stations where the emigrant and mail trains
might find shelter, protection, and provisions. I should have di-
rected a more extended examination, but the objects contemplated
by the expedition had been already too much delayed to justify it.
After passing the Court-house, a large butte, to the right of
the Chimney Rock, was before us the whole afternoon, and pre-
sented so remarkable a resemblance to the capitol at Washington,
with its dome in the centre and its wings on either side, that it
was the subject of remark with all of our company who had ever
seen that building. The resemblance was very strong, and I could
not but wonder that it had not elicited remark from some previous
traveller; since, compared with the far-famed Chimney Rock, it
is a much larger and more imposing object.
After a warm drive of twenty-five miles, we encamped within
five miles of the Chimney Rock, upon a point, or rather knoll
of land, overlooking the prairie toward the Platte, here about a
mile distant. Directly at the foot of the bluff is a most lovely
spring, which comes bubbling up from the ground in a clear, pel-
lucid stream, affording abundance of the coldest and most delicious
water we had yet found. (Temperature, 524°.) Here we spent the
following day, which was the Sabbath. No wood was to be ob-
tained nearer than the bluffs, and I was obliged to despatch a
wagon thither to procure sufficient for cooking purposes. The
hunters went out early, and returned about ten o’clock, with as
: 4
50 FROM FORT KEARNY TO FORT LARAMIE.
much meat as two pack-mules could carry—their riding-mules also
being loaded with the same welcome freight. They had killed three
elk and an antelope. ‘Ther. in the sun, with fresh breeze, at 124
o'clock, 984°. |
Monday, July 9.—Ther. at sunrise, 55°; Bar. 26.26; Wind N.
W. I determined this morning to examine more particularly the
curious bluffs or range which extends from the Court-house to
Chimney Rock, and on beyond nearly to Scott’s Bluffs. Riding
south from the road for a distance of about five miles over an open
prairie, cut up in every direction by hollows and little short ridges,
we arrived at a pass or gorge through what appeared to be the
main bluff, or southern boundary of the Platte valley. The cliffs
on either side of the pass were about thirty feet high, and presented
a section of clay, sandy clay, and calcareous sandstone. In some
places, projecting from the side of the cliff, were rounded layers of
the latter rock, disposed in a vertical direction, presenting the ap-
pearance of the vertebre of some large animal. On reaching the
summit of the pass, I found that this range, instead of being the
main bluff bounding the Platte valley, was only a high ridge sepa-
rating it from that of Lawrence’s Fork. The latter stream here
runs about north-east, through a broad, level prairie, four or five
miles wide, bounded by a high bluff on its southern side, and dis-
charges itself into the Platte many miles below; the stream forks
just above, and a high, broad ridge, similar in its character to that
we had just crossed, divided the two branches, the valleys of which
seemed to extend a considerable distance to the west. A few trees
were seen on the farther one. In the pass, two handsome varie-
ties of Digitalis occurred, both of a blue colour, one with glabrous
leaves, and flowers of a bright blue, the other with pubescent leaves,
and flowers not so bright; a dwarf white chrysanthemum was also
found in the same locality. I hoped to find some more specimens of
lignite on this stream, which is the same that washes the base of the
Court-house lower down, where that substance was seen yesterday.
T accordingly rode out to it. It was here a beautiful bubbling brook,
flowing with a rapid current over sand and rolled stones, brought
down from the Court-house ridge in immense quantities. No
lignite was discovered at this spot, although I have little doubt that
it exists higher up, near the sources of this little stream.
The south side of the ridge, which we followed until nearly op-
posite the Chimney Rock, presents the same fantastic appear-
ance as does that fronting the Platte valley, being worn by the
CHIMNEY ROCK. 51
weather into jutting, round abutments and castellated towers. At
this point the ridge is two miles wide, very much broken, and the
side so steep that it was impossible to keep the saddle while ascend-
ing. Descending the north slope, we were guided through a series
of narrow and extremely intricate ravines by a well-worn buffalo-
trail into the plain below. Before us was the Chimney Rock,
@ point on this route so well known and so often described. In the
strata of clay, sand, sandstones, and siliceous limestones, over which
we have been travelling for the last three days, the clay is most
predominant in this vicinity and to the eastward of Scott’s Bluff.
The partial disintegration of these strata has in some places
given to the bluffs the most curious shapes, and among others,
that of the Chimney Rock. This singular conformation has
been, undoubtedly, at one time, a portion (probably a projecting
shoulder) of the main chain of bluffs bounding the valley of the
Platte, and has been separated from it by the action of water. It
consists of a conical elevation of about one hundred feet high, its
sides forming an angle of about 45° with the horizon; from the
apex rises a nearly circular and perpendicular shaft of clay, now
from thirty-five to forty feet in height. The cone has, I think,
been formed by the disintegration of the softer portion of the bluff
arranging itself at its natural angle in a conical form, while the
remainder of the earth has been carried away by the floods and
distributed over the plain, leaving the broad valley which is at pre-
sent found between it and the main bluff. The Chimney, being
composed of more tenacious materials, has been left standing in a
vertical position, and has been worn into its present circular form
by the gradual action of the elements. That the shaft has been
very much higher than at present, is evident from the correspond-
ing formation of the bluff, as well as from the testimony of all our
voyageurs, with whom it was for years a landmark or beacon visi-
ble for forty or fifty miles, both up and down the river. It is the
opinion of Mr. Bridger that it was reduced to its present height by
lightning, or some other sudden catastrophe, as he found it broken
on his return from one of his trips to St. Louis, though he had
passed it uninjured on his way down. Its vicinity has long been
a favourite encamping ground for the emigrants, as there are
springs of water near and the grass is tolerably good. In crossmg
over from the valley of Lawrence’s Fork, it was noticed that the
ridge had been at one time covered with a tolerably dense growth
of cedar. These trees have nearly all died, and their trunks are
52 FROM FORT KEARNY TO FORT LARAMIE.
strewn over the ground. Young pines, however, are rapidly taking
their place. What could have caused this singular phenomenon ?
In former years the valley of the Platte was similarly covered with
these dead cedars, brought down by the freshets, but now there are
none to be found, they having all been converted into fuel by the
emigrants. Three miles from the Chimney Rock, the road
gradually leaves the river for the purpose of passing behind
Scott’s Bluff, a point where a spur from the main ridge comes
so close to the river as to leave no room for the passage of teams.
There was no water between these two points, a distance of more
than twenty miles, and we were consequently obliged to go on until
nine o'clock, when we encamped at the bluff, on a small run near
a delicious spring, after having been in the saddle sixteen hours
without food, and travelled thirty-one and a-half miles. The march
was a severe one upon the animals, as they were in harness, after
the noon halt, for seven successive hours, without water. The
afternoon was oppressively hot, and the gnats and musquitoes
almost insufferable. There is atemporary blacksmith’s shop here,
established for the benefit of the emigrants, but especially for that
of the owner, who lives in an Indiar lodge, and had erected a log
shanty by the roadside, in one end of which was the blacksmith’s
forge, and in the other a grog-shop and sort of grocery. The stock
of this establishment consisted principally of such articles as the
owner had purchased from the emigrants at a great sacrifice and
sold to others at as great a profit. Among other things, an excellent
double wagon was pointed out to me, which he had purchased for
seventy-five cents. The blacksmith’s shop was an equally profit-
able concern; as, when the smith was indisposed to work himself,
he rented the use of shop and tools for the modest price of seventy-
five cents an hour, and it was not until after waiting for several
hours, that I could get the privilege of shoeing two of the horses,
even at that price, the forge having been in constant use by the
emigrants. Scott's Bluff, according to our measurement, is five
hundred and ninety-six miles from Fort Leavenworth; two hun-
dred and eighty-five from Fort Kearny, and fifty-one from Fort
Laramie.
Thursday, July 12.—Bar. 26.18; Ther. at sunrise, 53°. We
arrived to-day at Fort Laramie, and encamped a short distance
above, on Laramie’s Fork, a fine, rapid stream, about fifty yards
wide. Here we remained until the 18th, recruiting our animals,
getting them shod, repairing our wagons, and making the necessary
.
-
ae
i 4
™ AN Aempeoig 6) ¢ YT URULOMOY
~~
FORT LARAMIE. 58
arrangements for continuing our journey. I here unpacked one
of the barometers which I had taken charge of for the Smithsonian
Institution, to be left at this post. It had stood the journey ad-
‘mirably, was in perfect order, and was gladly received by Lieu-
tenant Woodbury, of the corps of Engineers. Observations also
were made for the latitude of the post, which placed it in lat.
42°.12’ 38." 2, long. 104° 31’ 26”.
Fort Laramie, formerly known as Fort John, was one of the posts
established by the American Fur Company for the protection of
their trade. Its walls are built in the usual style of such structures,
of adobe or unburnt brick. The company sold it to the United
States Government; and their people, when we arrived, were tem-
porarily encamped near the ford of the creek, having recently sur-
rendered the possession of the post to the troops, whom we found
engaged in preparing for its extension and in the erection of addi-
tional quarters, under the superintendence of Lieutenant Woodbury.
It is garrisoned at present by two companies of Infantry and one
of Mounted Rifles, under command of Major Sanderson, of the
latter corps, by whom we were received with the greatest courtesy,
and promptly furnished with such supplies as were within the
resources of his command. I procured here fifteen additional mules,
and our stock now consisted of fifty-six mules, five horses, four
steers for beef, and two milch-cows, one of which we had found on
the prairie, abandoned or lost by her owners.
The country has risen considerably since leaving Scott’s Bluff,
and the general flora indicates a much drier atmosphere: the
grasses especially are brown and burned up wherever the earth is
not directly moistened by proximity to some stream. The soil
around Fort Laramie appears to be sterile, owing no doubt to the
extreme dryness of the air and the almost total absence of dews.
The great quantity of coarse conglomerate, too, which, by its dis-
integration, leaves the surface covered with gravel, must operate
as a great impediment to cultivation. ‘The rocks, however, con-
tain the elements of fertility, being composed of limestone, clay,
and sand; and I have no doubt that, with the aid of irrigation, the
bottom lands of Laramie Creek might be made to produce most
abundant crops. Hay is cut about eight miles up the stream in
quantity sufficient for the wants of the garrison.
A short excursion of some seven miles up the Laramie river,
showed that the sections of the bluffs presented strata of sand-
stone conglomerate, formed, in some cases, of the detritus of sand-
54 FROM FORT LARAMIE TO FORT BRIDGER.
stone and calcareous rocks, cemented in an argillaceous matrix.
The general direction of the strata was nearly horizontal, but
there were evident local displacements, caused apparently by
subterraneous upheavings. In some cases the strata were declined
as much as 80°, and in opposite directions, within a short space.
In many places large quantities occurred of the fragments of
primary rocks, resulting, most probably, from the decomposition
of conglomerate: the sandstone was often good, although generally
too scaly for building purposes.
CHAPTER III.
FROM FORT LARAMIE TO FORT BRIDGER.
Wednesday, July 18.—Taking leave of our friends at Fort
Laramie, we continued our journey this morning. The next place
where we shall meet with a human habitation will be Fort Bridger,
_ on Black’s Fork of Green River, distant about four hundred miles.
While the train followed the travelling track, I took a road
nearer the river, and examined a quarry which the workmen from
the fort are here opening. ‘The strata exposed in the bluffs were —
principally gray sandstone, with some thin calcareous layers, the
general dip being south and south-west about 17°. On the oppo-
site bank of the river, which is high and covered with pine, the in-
clination appeared to be much greater. The fossils were quite
imperfect. The only ones that could be descried were abundant
remains of encrinites. The limestone at the quarry is dark, car-
boniferous, with conchoidal fracture, and slightly foetid. It lies
in layers of six or eight inches thick, and is immediately overlaid
by slaty shales and gray sandstone. A considerable number of
Productus semi-reticulatus was found in it, as well as in the sand
between the layers: some specimens of a large sort of oyster lay in
a nearly horizontal position. Some imperfect fossils were also ob-
tained from the sandstone. The general surface is formed of
strata of grayish sandstone and clay, the former varying in hard-
ness, some being very friable, while others are exceeding hard,
especially some which were slightly coloured by oxide of iron.
RN a ee ee
LIMESTONE QUARRY—BITTER CREEK. ou
Near the quarry was a spring of pure cold water. A vein of trap,
about six inches wide, passed perpendicularly through the quarry,
and had evidently affected the rocks on either side. Leaving this
spot, we struck across to the south, and joined the camp, which
had been pitched just below a large warm spring that comes bub-
bling out of the ground and forms immediately a small stream.
Temperature of the spring, 71°.
Above the mouth of Warm Spring Creek, the hills become in- |
creased in height, and a lofty range runs north by west, evidently
thrown up by internal convulsions, the strata having a considerable
dip to the south-west. The banks of the Platte where it cuts
through the range are apparently perpendicular, and from a dis-
tance appeared to be composed of red sandstone. The general
dip of the rocks, where not disturbed, seems still to be toward the
south-west, though very slight.
Auguste Tesson, one of my very best men, was taken sick to-
day with something very like the cholera.
Thursday, July 19.—Bar. 25.68; Ther. 80°. Leaving the
valley of the Warm Spring Branch, the road crosses over to a
branch of Bitter Creek, an affluent of the Platte, down the valley
of which it winds until it reaches the main stream. We followed
this valley the whole day, crossing the stream several times, and
encamped on its left bank after a short march of ten and a-half
miles. We were detained here the following day by the extreme
illness of Auguste, who was unable to be removed. We passed
to-day the nearly consumed fragments of about a dozen wagons
that had been broken up and burned by their owners; and near
them was piled up, in one heap, from six to eight hundred weight
of bacon, thrown away for want of means to transport it farther.
Boxes, bonnets, trunks, wagon-wheels, whole wagon-bodies, cook-
ing utensils, and, in fact, almost every article of household furni-
ture, were found from place to place along the prairie, abandoned
for the same reason. In the evening, Captain Duncan, of the
Rifles, with a small escort, rode into camp. He had left Fort
Laramie in the morning, and was in hot pursuit of four deserters,
who had decamped with an equal number of the best horses be-
longing to the command.
Bitter Creek is a fine clear stream, about fifty feet wide, with a
swift current, and seems, from the great heaps of drift-wood piled
up on its banks, to discharge a large quantity of water in the
spring.
56 FROM FORT LARAMIE TO FORT BRIDGER.
Upon examining the bluff on the opposite side of the stream, the
strata were found to be composed of sandstone and clay with sand.
There was also a layer of sulphate of lime about four inches thick
and crystalline. In some of the layers of sandstone there were
ripple-marks of water; others were thickly studded with oval bo-
dies about the size of pigeons’ eggs. Other strata were formed
of more compact sandstone, not in layers but in irregular shaped
masses, as if composed of bones, much resembling what we had
remarked near Chimney Rock. Some fossils were collected, |
but in not a very perfect state. In some of the sandstones there
were evidently a great many, but in the more friable they were
rotten; and in others the stone, in the endeavour to get them out,
split in every direction. A crystalline mass of what was thought
to be sulphate of lime was also found, with dark crystals inter-
spersed. The top of the hill was covered with masses of primitive
rock, probably from the decomposition of conglomerate. The
hunters brought in the choice parts of three fat buffalo-cows to-
day, which fairly loaded down their pack-mules. The meat was
estimated to weigh upward of one thousand pounds.
Saturday, July 21.—We followed up the dry bed of a fork of
Bitter Creek for three or four miles, when it crosses over a high
ridge and descends precipitously into a narrow ravine forming the
heads of a branch of Horse-shoe Creek. Following down this
ravine, which gradually widens into a broad valley, walled in by
steep bluffs, much cut by ravines and entirely destitute of timber,
we reached Horse-shoe Creek, a beautiful stream of running water,
clear, soft, and very cool. ‘There are two tracks here, one crossing
below the junction of the two forks, two hundred yards to the
right, the other crossing both forks. The latter was taken, and
after crossing the western forks, we followed up its valley for a
couple of miles, over some very high, rolling country, and
crossing over to the valleys of two dry sandy beds, came to a
branch seven miles from Horse-shoe Creek, upon the left. bank of
which we encamped.
All the dry beds we have passed to-day give evidence of dis-
charging large quantities of water, which, at the melting of the
snows, descend from the Black Hills, a range immediately on our
left. Their channels are full of rolled primary rock, feldspar, and
white and pink quartz, brought down by the spring torrents.
Upon the top of the dividing ridge between Bitter Creek and
oe eo A ee eel te Pl Soy le) Sle NP GEN aro)
U
KN Aempeorg 6/6 Yn] wewtaeyoy
~
a ns ee "a — Te ee es ee ees we ae yy,
fl i Mas ina on te wi itn ala i titi iia Wares see
*
eae a
Ss
F. >
Sahu
“
HORSE-SHOE CREEK. 57
Horse-shoe, we passed some enormous blocks of granite, lying
upon the surface, some of which were cubes of twenty feet.
The road, as usual, was strewn with fragments of broken and
burnt wagons, trunks, and immense quantities of white beans,
which seemed to have been thrown away by the sackful, their
owners having become tired of carrying them farther, or afraid to
consume them from danger of the cholera. The commanding
officer at Fort Kearny had forbidden their issue at that post on
this account. Stoves, gridirons, moulding-planes and carpenters’
tools of all sorts, were to be had at every step for the mere trouble
of picking them up.
The next day, being Sabbath, was passed in camp, during which
hourly observations both of the thermometer and barometer were
made, commencing at six o’clock. We are fifty miles from Fort
Laramie.
In descending the ridge into the valley of Horse-shoe Creek, a
section of a stratum of reddish clay was exposed, some distance
above the bottom, surmounted by a large and coarse sandstone.
On the banks of the Horse-shoe, there was a perpendicular section
of about one hundred feet of a stratum of clay and sandy limestone.
The rock seemed very fossiliferous, but, owing to its fracturing in
all directions, few specimens could be obtained. The peaks to the
left seemed to be of reddish clay, so far as could be judged from
their appearance and the manner of their disintegration. A con-
siderable change has taken place in the flora as the country begins
to ascend. Since leaving Fort Laramie, a variety of geranium has
been frequent upon the borders of the streams. A small-leaved
Cnothera, white, and the blue Digitalis, were also found. On the
north side of the ridge, some plants were seen which we had not
met with before; Azalea; a small white Gnothera, on a tall stem,
the flowers not more than a line and a-half in diameter; two spe-
cies of Potentilla, yellow, and two or three varieties of Campanula.
Monday, July 23.—Ther. 47°. Ascending from the valley of
the run where we had encamped, the road winds along a high, un-
dulating ridge, for several miles, with very deep, precipitous ra-
vines heading on each side, thus rendering our course very sinuous.
The road then descends for about a mile and a-half into the broad
valley of a run which has been on our left for three or four miles,
and follows its dry bed until it strikes another fork coming in
from the left, with a fine stream of running water, and a broad
bottom, covered with willows of a large size. Our course this
58 FROM FORT LARAMIE TO FORT BRIDGER.
morning has been about parallel with the range of the Black Hills,
the base of which could frequently be seen from the more ele-
vated portions of the road. The valley of the Platte also was to
be seen far in the distance tothe north. Crossing La Bonté Creek,
encamped near a fine spring, after a fatiguing march of twenty-
four miles.
In passing along the ridge, the only rock exposed consisted of
coarse sandstone, with a decided dip to the north-east of 15°, and
beds of clay were interposed between the strata. On descending
from the ridge into the valley of the fork, some siliceous limestone
-was found, from which a few fossils were collected. In the same
locality were masses of sandstone of a reddish colour. On the
side of a ravine to the left of the road, the same sandstone ap-
peared to crop out. After crossing this stream, the geological
character of the country changed materially. The soil assumed
a red colour, being composed principally of red sandstones and
shales. To the left rose a high crest or ridge crowned with gray -
and red sandstone, which was very hard. The general direction
of this ridge was N.N.W.and 8.8.E., and it was manifestly
formed by the upheaving of the strata, the dip being at least 45°
to the north-east, while the south-west face of the rocks was very
precipitous. At nearly the highest point of the ridge, a small
ravine occurred, containing a layer of coal shale, apparently over-
laid by dark shales, and layers of red clay and light slaty shales.
The portions of these strata which were exposed were in so decom-
posed a state that no fossils could be obtained except very imper-
fect ones.
In the valley of La Bonté Creek, the soil was found to be formed
by the decomposition of highly ferruginous rock. Before the cross-
ing of this stream, a ravine exposed a layer of gypsum, which was
very fine and white, and of considerable thickness. Overlying it
were layers of red sandstone and shales, conformable with the ap-
parent dip of the sandstones forming the crest. A mile or two
beyond the La Bonté, the gray sandstone was seen cropping out,
overlying the red sandstone, and with a considerable dip to the
north. Above these were layers of red and light shales and im-
pure carboniferous limestone, from which a number of fossils
(Avicula monotis, and Cardinia) were collected. The limestone
seemed to be composed, to a great extent, of shells: in the more
sandy and slaty shales the fossils were not so numerous. ‘To the
left were some eminences composed of the more resisting sand-
LA BONTE RIVER—LA PRELE. 59
stones, the same as those forming the crest of the ridge, and which
seemed to be the result of some force from beneath. The rocks
were so broken that no indication could be obtained of their strati-
fication. About one mile from La Bonté, the ridge on the left be-
came lower, and the dip of the rocks was evidently less. They
are composed of gray and white sandstone, clayey shales and clay,
from which some few fossils were collected.
The formation over which we have been travelling to-day seems
to have been the result of the upheaving of the underlying strata,
and the direction of the force would appear to have been from
N. N. W. to S. 8S. E. It is not improbable that the trap and red
sandstone seen on the Platte about twelve miles above Fort Lara-
mie is the result of the same action, as that point would be in
about the direction in which such a line would strike the river.
The formation of the high ridges seen on the north side of the
Platte is undoubtedly owing to the same cause. The strata ob-
served to the right of the road before leaving the valley of the
La Bonté were not conformable with those on the ridge, but had
a slight dip to the south-east. They consisted of clay and coarse
sandstone, and were analogous to those passed in the early part of
the day. There can be but little doubt that they have been de-
posited since the elevation of the ridge. |
Tuesday, July 24.—Ther. at sunrise, 49°. Temperature of the
- spring the same. The road to-day passes over a rolling country,
being spurs of the Black Hills. We crossed the dry beds of several
small streams, skirted, in some instances, with willows, box-elder,
wild-cherry bushes, and occasionally with some large cotton-woods,
until we reached the river La Préle. At this spot the mules were
watered only, it being impossible to procure a blade of grass for
them all the day. Consequently, we were obliged to continue on
some four miles farther, until we reached the Platte, where we en-
camped in a pretty little grove of large cotton-woods, with but a
very scanty supply of grass. The artemisia seemed, to-day, to have
taken complete possession of the country; and what little grass
once grew along the road has been literally burned out by the
passing emigrants.
Upon arriving at the encamping ground, it was found, to our
great grief, that the barometer was broken. It had been firmly
fixed in an upright position, in the small spring-carriage, and care-
fully strapped to one of the stancheons; but in coming down a
steep and rough ravine, it must have received a jar that snapped
60 FROM FORT LARAMIE TO FORT BRIDGER.
the tube in two. The rates of the two chronometers, which were
in the same wagons, were, however, unchanged. The large spring-
wagon, containing all the instruments, came near meeting with a
fatal accident to-day, by the breaking of a breast-chain while de-
scending a steep hill, at the foot of which was a very precipitous
ravine, and it was only saved from destruction by the promptitude
and presence of mind of one of the men.
The hills over which we passed to-day were composed of coarse .
sandstone and conglomerate, with a slight dip to the south. From
the summit of some hills to the left of the road, a view was ob-
tained of the ridge we had passed over yesterday. It terminated
in some low hills. To the W. 8S. W. of this ridge, and parallel to
it, about twelve or fifteen miles distant, was another higher ridge,
of which Laramie Peak appeared to be the most easterly elevation.
Toward the west was yet another, running north-west, the soil at the
base of which was formed from the decomposition of the red sand-
stone and shales. On the ridge itself were found white and red
sandstone, very hard, and foetid dark limestone, the same as that ob-
served at the quarry near Fort Laramie. The dip was here fully 60°
to north-east. Some fossils, Terebratula and Productus, were collect-
ed here, principally from the limestone. The strata in the valley ap-
peared to consist of sandstone and shales, and were not conform-
able with the rocks forming the ridge. These rocks, nevertheless,
were found cropping out in some places. On descending into the
valley of the Platte, we passed a section of some gray sandstone,
with, perhaps, some dark shales, probably carboniferous. |
Wednesday, July 25.—Morning bright and cool. Brisk wind
from north-west. A distance of five miles up the Platte, over asandy
soil, brought us to Deer Creek, a bright, clear stream, running
pleasantly through a large grove of timber, principally cotton-
wood. Judging from appearances, this spot has been a favourite
camp-ground for the emigrants. Property of every description
was strewn about in all directions, and in much greater quanti-
ties than we had yet seen. Just above the mouth of this stream, |
there was a ferry over the Norh Fork of the Platte, at which I
determined to cross the train. The means employed for this pur-
pose were of the rudest and simplest kind. ‘The ferry-boat was
constructed of seven canoes, dug out from cotton-wood logs, fas-
tened side by side with poles, a couple of hewn logs being secured
across their tops, upon which the wheels of the wagons rested.
This rude raft was drawn back and forth by means of a rope
ee AC ee ONS ee a Ol NSS Od
af
e
5
ee ee
=
DEER CREEK—COAL BEDS—CROSSING OF NORTH FORK. 61
stretched across the river, and secured at the ends to either bank.
Frail and insecure as was the appearance of this very primitive
ferry-boat, yet all the wagons were passed over in the course of
two hours, without the slightest accident, although many of them
were very heavily laden. The animals were driven into the stream ~
and obliged to ferry themselves over, which they did without loss,
although the river was now somewhat swollen by late rains and
the current extremely rapid and turbid. ‘The ferrymen informed
me that an emigrant had been drowned here, the day before, in
essaying to swim his horse across, which he persisted in attempt-
ing, notwithstanding the earnest entreaties and warnings of his
friends. They told us that this man made the twenty-eighth vic-
tim drowned in crossing the Platte this year; but I am inclined
to believe that this must be an exaggeration. The charge for
ferriage was two dollars for each wagon. The price, considering
that the ferrymen had been for months encamped here, in a little
tent, exposed to the assaults of hordes of wandering savages, for
the sole purpose of affording this accommodation to travellers, was
by no means extravagant.
A short distance above where the road crosses Deer Creek, coal
was found cropping out of the bluff on the left bank of the stream.
Ascending the creek, the direction of which was about north by
west, the strata were inclined at an angle of about three degrees,
but not at right angles to the dip, which appeared to be north by
east. The coal was lying on a stratum of white sandstone of con-
siderable thickness; above it were some dark shales; and above
these, gray sandstones, in which latter were found fossils of Szgdl-
laria, and, in those under the coal,stems of Calamites ; but as the
only examples that could be obtained were from rocks which had
been exposed to the action of the weather, they were imperfect.
The stratum of coal was three or four feet thick, and resembled
the cannel coal very much; but as the only specimens obtained
were very much weathered, this could not be ascertained with cer-
tainty. As the strata rose, the coal could be traced ascending
the hills on the side of the bank, and the deeper underlying rocks
became more fully exposed. They consisted of sandstones, vary-
ing in colour from red to gray, and hi ak: many fossils, prin-
cipally vegetable.
The road, after crossing the river, runs mostly on the side of
the bluffs, whieh here approach auek nearer than on the south
side. They consist of reddish sandstone, containing some curious
62 FROM FORT LARAMIE TO FORT BRIDGER.
fossils. Among these were perfectly rounded masses, fully a foot
in diameter, and others of stone apparently contorted like a rope
tied into knots; they all appeared to have been attached to a
stem. The formation, on the left side of the river, consists of
sandstone with some beds of clayey shales and slaty shales. Salt
was found efflorescing on the rocks in two or three places, and this
was the case also on the opposite side, at the coal-beds on Deer
Creek. Artemisia was almost the only vegetation, and great dif-
ficulty was experienced in obtaining enough grass to subsist our
animals. ‘The soil appears very barren, more from the absence
of moisture than from the character of its constituents; as even
the alluvial bottoms exhibit the same destitute and naked features.
The road, since crossing, has been through deep sand, making the
travel extremely slow and fatiguing. Day’s march, fifteen and
a-half miles.
Thursday, July 26.—Harly this morning we passed a small
island in-the river, promising a welcome supply of grass for our
wearied animals, which for the last three days have had very little
to eat, and begin to exhibit the effects of this want of nourish-
ment. Having afforded them a hearty meal, we continued up the
valley to a high bluff running to the river: we crossed it and
encamped in a deep valley beyond, where some pools of standing
water afforded drink for our stock. The grass was quite sufficient.
Some of the pools were so highly impregnated with salt as to be
quite unpleasant to the taste.
The general character of the formation is the same as that of
yesterday—sandstone and shales: coal was found in two places,
the first near the island where we nooned, and again about five
miles beyond. In both cases the overlying strata were shales and
clay; and that beneath, sandstone. The dip has been mostly to
the north; but, where the coal was last seen, the strata were found
dipping to the south-west, at an angle of about 20°. They then
became horizontal, and in about half a mile the dip was again to
the north. Some specimens of shale, with impressions of leaves,
were collected, and also some crystallized carbonate of soda.
Friday, July 27.—Morning bright and cool. The road for the
greater part of the day has been through deep, heavy white sand,
of which the hills seem to be chiefly composed. Turning off from
the river, we left the road for the purpose of finding grass, and
encamped directly behind the Red Buttes, five miles distant from
the river, on the margin of a small lake or pond, formed by nu-
ABANDONMENT AND DESTRUCTION OF PROPERTY. 63
merous little springs of very cold and excellent water. Grass was
found on a neighbouring hillside sufficient for our animals.
The road to-day passed over from the Platte, crossing a spur of
of the mountains. Above this point, a high range of hills, which
had been observed running to the north-west, inclined rather more
to the north side of the river, which here forces a passage for
itself through a gorge of the mountain. The strata there pre-
sented were of red sandstone and shales, whence the name of
<«¢ Red Buttes.’’ The rocks were inclined at an angle of about 25°,
with a dip to the west, as were also the strata on the north side.
The sections presented were of sandstones, white or red, shales,
slaty shales, and clay. Considerable quantities of nitrate and car-
bonate of soda were found on the surface.
To-day we find additional and melancholy evidence of the diffi-
culties encountered by those who are ahead of us. Before halting
to noon, we passed eleven wagons that had been broken up, the
spokes of the wheels taken to make pack-saddles, and the rest
burned or otherwise destroyed. The road has been literally
strewn with articles that have been thrown away. Bayr-iron and
steel, large blacksmiths’ anvils and bellows, crow-bars, drills,
augers, gold-washers, chisels, axes, lead, trunks, spades, ploughs,
large grindstones, baking-ovens, cooking-stoves without number,
kegs, barrels, harness, clothing, bacon, and beans, were found along
the road in pretty much the order in which they have been here
enumerated. The carcasses of eight oxen, lying in one heap by
the roadside, this morning, explained a part of the trouble. I re-
cognised the trunks of some of the passengers who had accom-
panied me from St. Louis to Kansas, on the Missouri, and who
had here thrown away their wagons and every thing they could not
pack upon their mules, and proceeded on their journey- At the
noon halt, an excellent rifle was found in the river, thrown there
by some desperate emigrant who had been unable to carry it any
farther. In the course of this one day the relics of seventeen
wagons and the carcasses of twenty-seven dead oxen have been
seen. Day’s march, twenty-four miles.
Saturday, July 28.—Morning bright and pleasant, but at 9
A. M. the wind rose from the south-west, and blew almost a hurri-
cane the whole day, tearing up the sand and gravel, and dashing
it into our faces, as we rode, with such violence as to cause sensi-
ble pain. It was impossible to look up for a moment, as the eyes
became immediately filled with sand, so that the teamsters were
64 FROM FORT LARAMIE TO FORT BRIDGER.
obliged to fasten their handkerchiefs over their faces to enable
them to see where they were going. ‘This has been the most dis-
agreeable day’s travel we have yet experienced; for the wind, in
addition to its furious violence, was so very hot and dry as to ren-
der respiration, from the great rarefaction, quite difficult. The
throat and fauces became dry, the lips clammy and parched, and
the eyes much inflamed from the drifting dust. <A pair of green
goggles partially remedied this latter annoyance; and I would ad-
vise every one who contemplates a journey across these sandy
plains, to provide himself with several pairs before starting. They
afford great relief from the incessant glare of a bright sun, to
which he may make up his mind to be constantly exposed during
the whole of his weary route. With all our efforts, owing to these
opposing causes, our day’s march was only eighteen miles, and we
encamped on the head of a spring, one hundred and sixty-four
miles from Fort Laramie and forty-four miles from the ferry,
and remained at this camp over Sunday.
The country, all the way from the crossing of the Platte, is a
dry, sterile, and dreary desert. The artemisia constitutes nearly
the whole growth, and what little grass had come up has been
completely eaten off by the hundred thousand animals that have
passed before us. Thirty-one head of dead cattle were passed on
the roadside to-day, and on the bank of a small drain, where the
efflorescence of alkaline matter was very abundant and rendered
the water nauseously offensive, nine oxen lay dead in one heap.
They had been poisoned, doubtless, by the water. Our accompany-
ing friends occupied a portion of Sunday in selecting such articles
as they could best spare, and threw them away_to lighten their
load, their animals beginning to fail quite sensibly. The day was
cool, with a fresh breeze from the north. Thermometer at sun-
down, 52°; and at 10 p. m. 44°. :
Monday, July 30.—Ther. at sunrise, 29°. Morning very cold.
Ice, half an inch thick, had formed during the night in the water-
buckets, and a faint white-frost was visible on the ground. To-
day we crossed over to the Sweetwater River, descending into its
valley by the side of a small tributary, whose course was nearly
south, and encamped on the left bank of this beautiful little stream,
a mile below Independence Rock. The river is about seventy feet
wide, from six to eighteen inches in depth, with a uniform and
tolerably rapid current of clear, transparent water.
In the valley of the tributary opposite our noon halt, some
INDEPENDENCE ROCK—DEVIL’S GATE. 65
masses of igneous rocks, granite and serpentine, protruded con-
siderably above the soil. The direction of the dike was from north
to south. The strata through which they protruded did not appear
to be disturbed, nor were any specimens of metamorphic rocks
found near them, although, had such existed, their presence would
have been indicated, as being more resisting than the sandstone of
which the surface rock is generally composed. Wherever any
sections of the latter have been obtained, they were found to be
either coarse white or gray sandstone, and clay, with coarse con-
glomerate. Some distance below this dike, the igneous rocks
again became visible, and at this point portions of white sandstone
were found overlying the lower parts of the rock, and apparently
in horizontal layers. The surface of the ground in the vicinity,
where water had apparently stood, was coated with a white saline
substance, a portion of which was collected.
The same substance has been observed within the last two days
on the surface in those localities where water has evaporated.
Near our encampment this evening, large masses of igneous rock
protrude in every direction, but the sandstone near them does not
appear to have been disturbed.
Few or no flowers have been met with on this portion of the
route, owing, in part, to the dryness of the atmosphere, (due to
our increasing elevation,) and in part to the occurrence of frosts
during the summer months.
Tuesday, July 31.—Ther. at sunrise, 40°. Leaving camp
we continued up the valley of the Sweetwater, and passed the
‘far-famed «Independence Rock,” a large rounded mass of granite,
which has frequently been described by travellers. It was covered
with names of the passing emigrants, some of whom seemed deter-
mined, judging from the size of their inscriptions, that they would
go down to posterity in all their fair proportions. A short dis-
tance -beyond was a range of granite hills, stretching entirely
across the valley, and continuous with a range extending to the
north. Through this range the Sweetwater passes in a narrow
cleft or gorge, about two hundred yards in length, called the
«‘ Devil’s Gate.’’ The space between the cliff, on either side, did
not in some places exceed forty feet. The height was from three
to four hundred feet, very nearly perpendicular, and, on the south
side, overhanging. Through this romantic pass the river brawls
and frets over broken masses of rock that obstruct its passage,
affording one of the most lovely, cool, and refreshing retreats from
5
66 FROM FORT LARAMIE TO FORT BRIDGER.
the eternal sunshine without, that the imagination could desire.
It is difficult to account for the river having forced its passage
through the rocks at this point, as the hills, a very short distance
to the south, are much lower, and, according to present appear-
ance, present by no means such serious obstacles as had been here
encountered. It is probable, that when the cafion was formed,
stratified rocks obstructed it in that direction, and that these rocks
have since disappeared by slow disintegration. The granite rocks
of the pass were traversed in many places by dikes of trap, which
were in some instances twenty feet thick, whose direction was
east and west. South of the pass, at its eastern extremity, stra-
tified rocks, consisting of conglomerate, were observed, in a nearly
horizontal position, without exhibiting the least evidence of having
been disturbed by the igneous rocks around which they were
placed; indeed, they could be traced in close contact with the
granite, without any displacement of the strata, proving that their
formation must have been subsequent to that of the granite, from
the disintegration of which they were composed. The conglome-
rate is of the same character as that which was observed before
coming upon the carboniferous rocks. The rocks were not ob-
served to have any marked dip. It is highly probable that they
belong to a period subsequent to that in which the carboniferous
rocks were formed, and that the eruption of granite took place after
the latter formation, but before that of the conglomerate. No
dikes of trap were observed in the granite, except in the immediate
vicinity of the Devil’s Gate.
After passing this remarkable cafion, we enter upon a broad
level valley, bounded on each side by ranges of mountains, their
summits broken into curious peaks and eminences entirely
destitute of vegetation. Between these winds the Sweetwater,
with a current more gentle than heretofore, its banks covered
with grass. An accident occurring to one of the wagons, the
remainder of the day was consumed in its repair. Thermometer
at sunset, 70°.
Wednesday, August 1.—Ther. at sunrise, 33°. Frost during the
night; morning clear, calm, and very beautiful. The road passing
occasionally through deep, heavy sand, continued up the right
bank of the Sweetwater, which, for the greater part of the morning,
flowed at the foot of a long, high range of granite bluffs, with here
and there a stunted cedar growing from the crevices in the rocks.
The valley is here nearly two miles wide, with rolling hills between
SALHRATUS LAKE. 67
the two mountain ranges, which bound it on either side and form
its limits. The artemisia seems to have taken complete possession
of the soil, growing five or six feet high, with twisted stems, re-
sembling somewhat in their texture the ground cedar of the New
England coast. At the Devil’s Gate I noticed some, quite seven
feet high and nine inches in diameter. The Wind-River Moun-
tains were seen on the horizon—their sides, for a third part of the
distance down from their summits, glistening with snow, in the
rays of the morning sun, like burnished silver. They presented a
very beautiful object.
About a dozen burnt wagons and nineteen dead oxen were
passed to-day along the road; but the destruction has been by no
means as great as upon the North Fork of the Platte and the cross-
ing over to the Sweetwater.
In the morning we passed what at a distance appeared to be a
small lake or pond, frozen over and covered with a very light fall
of drifting snow. The illusion was perfect, and was maintained
to the last moment, even when riding up to its very margin. It
was found to bea slight depression, about four hundred yards
long, by one hundred and fifty in width, covered with an efflo-
rescence of carbonate of soda, deposited on the ground from the
evaporation of the water which had held it in solution. This
substance, indeed, covers a large portion of the country, and is
quite abundant on the banks of the river. The emigrants use it
in mixing their bread, and prefer it to the saleratus of the shops
for that purpose.
On the south range of mountains, about fifteen miles above the
Devil’s Gate, a ravine, formed by a small stream, exposed a
section of the rocks. The strata evidently belonged to the car-
boniferous system, and had been acted upon by heat. The lime-
Stone was in some instances converted into marble, and other spe-
cimens afforded examples of its partial change. It belonged to
the dark slaty-coloured variety, such as had been found at the
_ quarry near Fort Laramie, and has since been seen wherever the
lower beds have been tilted up. The red and white sandstone
had also been affected by heat, their structure being more crystal-
line. The dip was to the south, and was very great, varying from
T0° to 80°, and some of the lower beds of the red sandstone were
nearly vertical. The sequence of the strata seemed to be exactly
the same as had been observed near the Red Buttes. On the west
surface of the hills, which were precipitous, and covered to a great
68 FROM FORT LARAMIE TO FORT BIDGER.
extent with pine, dark bands of soil were observed, having the
appearance of being formed by the decomposition of carbonaceous
matter, which however must have been altered by heat. It is
highly probable that these beds have been tilted up by some gra-
nite rock, although none appeared on the surface, being probably
covered up by the secondary beds which have been deposited since
the eruption took place. The valley between the hills and the
river gradually rose, and where the rocks had been protruded
must have been at a considerable elevation above the latter. They
were composed of white and gray sandstones, evidently fossili-
ferous, but the fossils were in so decomposed a state that no speci-
mens, with the exception of some imperfect encrinital stems,
could be obtained. The beds were nearly horizontal, and were ana-
logous to the same formation over which we had been passing all
along the Platte. Toward the close of our march to-day, the sum-
mit of one of these lower hills was found to be composed of clay
similar to that of the Chimney Rock, and to the formations in
that vicinity. The elevations, though not so marked as to pecu-
liarity of form, resembled them in their general features. The
rocks on the north side of the river are still granitic.
Encamped, after a march of twenty-one and a-half miles, on the
right bank of the river, which is here growing smaller and the
current more gentle. In the course of the day we passed a party
of eight wagons from Iowa, bound to the land of gold. A number
of women and children were of the party, and application was
made for medical attendance upon one of the former, who was
about being confined. |
Friday, August 3.—Ther. at sunrise, 31°.. The rocky ridges
gradually disappeared as we followed up the valley of the Sweet-
water, occasionally crossing long and lofty spurs which would not
admit of our passing between them and the river. The soil is
very barren, producing only the artemisia, and two or three varie-
ties of grass; a species of Jrzs, which is quite abundant,the Linum
ceruleum, a yellow Potentilla, a scarlet star-shaped flower, with
tubular corolla,and Ginothera hispida were seen in the bottoms.
The character of the valley for the last two days has been ana-
logous to that of the Platte below Fort Laramie. The last of the
granite was passed yesterday. The hills on both sides of the
river have since been formed of sandstones and clay, the latter of
which forms the irregular outline of the bluffs above Ash Hol-
low, and in many instances presenting a similar appearance when
CANON OF THE SWEETWATER. 69
it is found on the tops of the hills. The strata seemed perfectly
horizontal. At our nooning point yesterday, the carboniferous
rocks were found fising up at a considerable angle, but no section
was obtained. The only rock exposed was the red sandstone,
which had been rendered partially crystalline by the action of
heat. The surrounding rocks had not been disturbed. Some |
beds of very coarse conglomerate were seen cropping out near the
river.
In the course of the day, Captain Duncan, of the Rifles, who had
passed us at Bitter Creek on the 19th of July, in pursuit of de-
serters, came into camp, having followed his men to within fifty
miles of Fort Bridger. He had come upon them at daylight, while
they lay asleep, disarmed them, secured their horses, and was now
on his return, having taken also another man who had deserted
previously—so that he had five in all. The pursuit was one of
_ great hardship, privation, and fatigue, and the energy and perse-
verance with which it had been continued was the subject of admi-
ration with all. Encamped on the Sweetwater, at a point where
the road leaves it to avoid a caiion above, which is impassable for
wagons for several miles. March, in the last two days, forty
miles. |
Saturday, August 4.—Morning clear and cool. Leaving the train
to follow the beaten track, which makes a short cut over the hills,
I determined to follow up the cajion of the Sweetwater. The
stream, as I had anticipated, was shut up between lofty, rocky
eminences, coming down directly to the water at an angle of from
45° to 60°, along the sides of which we scrambled, sometimes
walking and leading our mules over crags where it was impossible
to ride, crossing and recrossing the stream ever and anon, to
enable our animals to get along at all. A short distance after
entering the cafion, the red sandstone was found cropping out at
an angle of 45°, with a dip to the north; and a little farther
on the crystalline rocks appeared, forming the sides of the
eafion. The prevailing rock was gneiss; but sienite and granite
were found in some places constituting the principal bulk of the
formation. A narrow bottom occasionally gave room for some
fine groves of large aspens, the sight of which, after our long
and dreary ride without a particle of shade, was truly refreshing.
The bed of the river was filled with large boulders and fragments
of rock which had fallen from the cliffs above, among which the
naters foamed and fretted with a gurgling murmur, which, when |
70 FROM FORT LARAMIE TO FORT BRIDGER.
contrasted with the flat, silent waters of the Platte, was very plea-
sant to the ear. It reminded one of the clear, purling streams we
had left at home. °
The river here is truly a mountain-stream, with great fall,
rapid current, and water as clear as crystal, of the tempera-
ture of 55°. On emerging from the district of primary rocks, we
came upon the stratified, which were formed of micaceous, slaty
shales, and red sandstone, all evidently metamorphic: their beds
were inclined at an angle of from 40° to 70° to the north. Veins
of quartz were observed in them in some places. Trap dikes
were very frequent in the crystalline rocks. The surface rock on
the hills in the vicinity appeared to be a continuation of the same
shaly formation. The aspen, beech, willow, and cotton-wood were
found growing on the bottoms, and on the hills cotton-wood, pine,
and cedar. Sage hens, (Tetrao urophasianus,) a species of grouse,
were seen in great numbers, and the men shot as many as we could
conveniently carry. They are very good eating, and some of the
older ones were larger than a full-grown barn-door fowl.
In the afternoon, we met the mail from Great Salt Lake City,
with upward of six thousand letters, and were glad to avail our-
selves of the opportunity to write to our friends. Camp on
Sweetwater. Day’s march, twenty-three miles.
Monday, August 6.—Leaving the valley of the Sweetwater, we
crossed this morning through the South Pass over to the head
branches of Sandy Creek, an affluent of the Colorado, or Green
River of the West, and nooned at the « Pacific Springs,” at the
foot of the pass, on the western side. This celebrated depression
through the Rocky Mountains is now so well known that any fur-
ther description of it would be superfluous. That of Frémont
conveys a very accurate idea of the locality, which has nothing
remarkable in its features. The water at the Pacific Springs
is not very good, but is quite cold. It is a favourite camping
ground of the emigrants on account of the grass. Hncamped for
the night on the banks of Dry Sandy, where we had to dig in the
bed of the stream for water; but a very scanty supply was ob-
tained; and the grass moreover was so scarce that our animals
were allowed to run loose all night under the protection of the
guard, instead of being picketed as usual. In the afternoon, one
of our best mules died from the bite of a snake. In the morn-
ing her jaws and fauces had been observed to be very much
swollen, and before sundown she became so weak that we were
SOUTH PASS—EMIGRANT RUSE. TL
obliged to release her from the wagon, when she lay down by the
side of the road and in a short time expired.
Between the Sweetwater and the South Pass, the soil for some four
or five miles presented the same disintegrated dark shales as had
been observed on the other side of the river. It then became more
sandy, and portions of weathered marble were found on the surface.
On ascending some low hills on the left of the road, and within
about a mile of the Pass, marble was found in place, contain- |
ing a considerable incrustation of silex. It evidently cropped
out on the south side of these hills, on the top of one of which was
found a stratum of gray sandstone, in which the remains of en-
crinites were observed. It was quite horizontal, not conformable
with the marble under it, and was undoubtedly a continuation, of
the secondary formation which had been observed up the whole
valley of the Sweetwater. On the left of the road, and a few miles
distant, were some high hills, which, from their appearance, seemed
to be capped by the reddish clay which forms the isolated masses
in the valley of the Platte. Shortly after passing the summit we
found a stratum of apparently metamorphic clay, horizontal, with
an east and west direction. Over this were strata of gray sand-
stone, horizontal, or with a slight dip to the east. Descending
the western side of the Pass, the soil was composed principally of
red sand. No rocks were visible. About a mile from Dry Sandy,
some masses of rock were observed on the right of the road, stand-
ing up like pillars; they were found to be composed of a coarse
sandstone, of an ochrey colour. Under them were white and red
shales, apparently horizontal. The surface of the ground appeared
to be the result of the decomposition of this ochrey rock.
I witnessed, at the Pacific Springs, an instance of no little in-
genuity on the part of some emigrant. Immediately alongside
of the road was what purported to be a grave, prepared with more
than usual care, having a headboard on which was painted the
name and age of the deceased, the time of his death, and the part
of the country from which he came. I afterward ascertained that
this was only a ruse to conceal the fact that the grave, instead of con-
taining the mortal remains of a human being, had been made a safe
receptacle for divers casks of brandy, which the owner could carry
no farther. He afterward sold his liquor to some traders farther
on, who, by his description of its locality, found it without difli-
culty. |
Wednesday, August 8.—In our march, yesterday, to the Little
/
12 FROM FORT LARAMIE TO FORT BRIDGER.
Sandy, where we encamped, nothing of interest was observed. In
Little Sandy the same strata as had occurred previously were
found, with a dip of 8° to the south. <A section of the rock in the
vicinity, exposed on the top the same ochrey-coloured sandstone,
and then red shales. From the shales were obtained some remains
of plants, but the rock was in so decomposed a state that they could
not be identified. On the road, some fragments of limestone were
found on the surface, containing fossils, but we could not secure
any specimens. From Little Sandy to Big Sandy, artemisia covers
the whole face of the country, which has a dreary, barren aspect.
Near our camp of this morning, a small section presented thin la-
minated white sandstones and clayey shales; and from the appear-
ance of the country for several miles, this must have been the
character of the rocks. Twelve miles from the Little Sandy, on
descending a ravine, fossiliferous trunks of large trees, some of
them nearly two feet in diameter, were observed upon the ground:
the interior of some of these was hollowed out, but concentric rings
were noticed near the circumference, and, in some specimens, lon-
gitudinal fibres were found in the interior. The bark appeared to
be marked in places for the attachment of leavesof Cycadec, but
they were all much weathered. The rocks on the river-bank were
white compact sandstone, disposed in thin lamelle, sandy and
clayey shales, and a gray compact limestone, breaking with a
conchoidal fracture. Some large portions of trunks of trees were
protruding from the cliff, imbedded in apparently arenaceous
shales. Some few specimens of fossils (Mawtilus and corals) were
collected, but, on account of the weathered state of the rocks, they
were necessarily imperfect. ‘The limestones. contained but few
fossils.
Thursday, August 9.—Our road to-day lay along the right bank
of Big Sandy, until we reached Green River, which we crossed
above the junction, and encamped a couple of miles below. The
increased altitude, and the consequent dryness of the atmosphere,
had so shrunk the woodwork of many of our wagon-wheels, that
various expedients had to be resorted to, in order to prevent them
from falling to pieces. To-day one of the wheels of the instru-
ment-wagon, that precious and important portion of our train, be-
came so weak from this cause that I was forced to take out nearly
all the load, and distribute it among the other teams, to enable us
to reach camp with it.. We picked up a pair of hagle belonging
to some emigrant-wagon, but they would not answer; so we were
BIG SANDY—COLORADO OR GREEN RIVER. 73
obliged to wedge up the wheel as well as we could, and to sink it
in the river during the night, to swell the wood.
The bluffs on Big Sandy presented several sections. The
strata consisted of thin layers of clayey shales, argillaceous gray
limestones, and of crystallized sulphate of lime. These strata
were seldom more than two or three inches in thickness, the
layers of gypsum being about halfan inch. There were also thin
laminz of dark slaty shales above the gray limestone. Remains
of plants were found, and also some imperfect shells. Near the
junction of Big Sandy with Green River some large nodules of
ferruginous sandstone were observed, and near them the remains
of trees of a large size. The dip was about 5°, a little to the west
of south. Upon Green River we came upon a layer of brownish
clay, of considerable thickness; and from the appearance of the
hills on our right, it is probable that they are formed by the
weathering of this bed of clay. Green River,.or the Colorado of
the Gulf of California, is here a fine, bold, clear stream, discharg-
ing a large quantity of water. In its bed are found rounded
stones, consisting principally of detritus of primary rocks. Day’s
march, only thirteen miles.
Friday, August 10.—After travelling about four miles, the road
leaves Green River and crosses over a ridge dividing it from
Black’s Fork, one of its tributaries, upon the left bank of which
we encamped, with abundance of grass, and wood obtained from
the willows which here fringed its banks. The Uintah mountains
were distinctly seen far to the south, their sides glittering with
snow in the rays of the setting sun.
In a ravine of the western bluff of Green River valley, the rocks
were partially exposed, particularly some strata of hard white
sandstone. They consisted of sandstone in lamin, about fifteen
inches thick, and layers of argillaceous shales, and argillaceous
limestone, made up principally of shells. There were evidently,
also, some strata of conglomerate, formed chiefly of serpentine,
sienite, and trap. Among the rounded pebbles found near the
top of the ravine was one of dark foetid limestone, partially con-
verted into marble, and precisely similar to the metamorphic lime-
stone observed flanking the granite chain in the vicinity of the
South Pass. A specimen of fossil wood was also found, which ap-
peared to have been partially converted into lignite. The strata
were, as far as could be judged, horizontal, and a section on the
opposite side of the valley showed the same sandstone maintaining
T4 FROM FORT LARAMIE TO FORT BRIDGER.
about the same level. If there was any dip, it was to the south,
although certainly not so great as had been observed in the strata
since leaving the South Pass. Quite a number of fossils were
collected here. The character of the soil in the valley of Green
River would indicate a considerable preponderance of argilla-
ceous elements in the rocks. The ridge between it and Black’s
Fork afforded an imperfect section of the rocks. ‘They were, how-
ever, mostly covered by clay. The less decomposed rock consisted
of white and slaty sandstone, a coarse-grained grayish sandstone,
and a thin stratum of limestone. But few fossils could be col-
lected, the surface of the rocks being almost entirely concealed by
blue clay—the result of the disintegration of strata which seemed
to compose the greater portion of the mass. The strata were very
nearly horizontal, although a slight dip to the north was suspected.
Common salt was found on some of the stones. The layer of
limestone was near the top of the rocks.
Saturday, August 11.—Ther. at 6 o’clock, 40°. <A drive of
thirty-two miles, during which we crossed Ham’s Fork and Black’s
Fork three times, brought us to Fort Bridger—an Indian trading-
post, situated on the latter stream, which here branches into three
principal channels, forming several extensive islands, upon one of
which the fort is placed. It is built in the usual form of pickets,
with the lodging apartments and offices opening into a hollow
square, protected from attack from without by a strong gate of
timber. On the north, and continuous with the walls, is a strong
high picket-fence, enclosing a large yard, into which the animals
belonging to the establishment are driven for protection from both
wild beasts and Indians. We were received with great kindness’
and lavish hospitality by the proprietor, Major James Bridger, one
of the oldest mountain-men in this entire region, who has been en-
gaged in the Indian trade, here, and upon the heads of the Mis-
sourl and Columbia, for the last thirty years. Several of my
wagons needing repair, the train was detained five days for the
purpose, Major Bridger courteously placing his blacksmith-shop at
my service.
In a ravine to the right of the ford of Ham’s Fork, on the north
bank, white sandstone was found cropping out, and here some speci-
mens of very perfect shells were collected. Under the sandstone
were argillaceous shales, and above them apparently a thin stratum
of limestone and rolled pebbles. The general surface of the coun-
try appeared to be the result of the disintegration of argillaceous
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rocks and some sandstones, the former greatly predominating. In
some places, layers of blue and red clay, of considerable thickness,
were observed, and also gray argillaceous limestone; but owing to
the surface of the rocks being covered by the clay detritus, no
complete sections of them were obtained, nor were any fossils found
in them. Farther on, upon Black’s Fork, a ridge was crossed in
which the different layers of the rocks were quite apparent. Here
two strata of coarse reddish sandstone, which disintegrated but
slowly, were prominent. ‘They were separated by layers of lime-
stone, shales, and clay. The shales were so nearly horizontal that
no dip could be ascertained. Following the valley of Black’s Fork,
we passed, in the afternoon, strata of green and white sandstone,
whitish shales, and clay, but too much decomposed to afford us any
fossils. In the valley were found some blocks of limestone, wholly
made up of the debris of shells. The valley of Black’s Fork, in the
vicinity of Bridger’s Fort, is three or four miles broad, and many
of the numerous little branches into which the stream is divided
are handsomely fringed with thickets of cotton-wood. The soil is
composed of the detritus of the surrounding rocks, and huge blocks
of metamorphic rock, and some trap and serpentine, are found upon
the surface. At the fort we were shown a piece of rock, evidently
volcanic, in the cells of which were contained some particles of
gold. It was stated that it had been found in the bed of Black’s
Fork in the vicinity. If so, it must have been washed down from
the Uintah chain of mountains, a lofty range to the south, in which
the stream heads. These mountains were at this time covered with
snow for a considerable distance from their summits; but of their
lithological formation no opinion could be formed, as their great
distance precluded all opportunity of examining them. The strata
of the hills around the fort were nearly horizontal, and consisted
of gray limestone, clayey and slaty shales, and sandstones. Some
few miles up the stream, sections of these rocks were found, from
which some fossils were obtained. In the beds of the stream were
found rounded rocks, composed principally of metamorphic sand-
stone, and some marble. The same rocks were seen in horizontal
strata on the hills.
From Fort Bridger there are now two routes as far as the Hum-
boldt or Mary’s River, where they again unite. The old road
strikes Bear River, follows down its valley by the Soda Springs to -
Fort Hall, whence it pursues a south-westerly course to the Hum-
boldt. By this route a northing of nearly two degrees is made,
76 FROM FORT LARAMIE TO FORT BRIDGER.
and the road, consequently, is much lengthened. The other route
was laid out by the Mormon community in 1847, and conducts the
emigrant to their city, in the southern part of the Salt Lake
valley, causing him to vary from the line of his direction rather
more than a degree southwardly: this he has to recover by a direct
north course to the crossing of Bear River near the north end of
the lake, whence he proceeds in a north-west direction, until he
intersects the old road from Fort Hall. I was desirous of as-
certaining whether a shorter route than either of these could
not be obtained by pursuing a direct course to the head of the
lake, or to the point where Bear River enters its basin through
the Wahsatch range from Cache Valley. If practicable, such a
trace would save the emigration the great detour that has to be
made by either of the present routes, and would have a direct
bearing upon the selection of a site for the military post contem-
plated for this region. I had ascertained that this selection had
not yet been made, the officer designated for that purpose having
determined to winter his command in temporary quarters, in the
vicinity of Fort Hall. A glance at the map will show the import-
ance of this « cut-off’ to the travel for either Oregon or Califor-
nia. I therefore determined to make the examination myself,
accompanied by Major Bridger, and to send forward the train to
Salt Lake City by the Mormon road, under the command of Lieu-
tenant Gunnison, whose health had become so far established as
to enable him to resume his seat in the saddle. ‘The train left, ac-
cordingly, on the 16th; but as we returned to this point by the
same route the following year, I defer for the present any descrip-
tion of it. I was myself detained until the 20th, by the absence
of the partner of Major Bridger, who was on a trip to Salt Lake
City, and without whose presence Major B. did not deem it
prudent to leave the fort. As the examination was intended to be
a mere reconnoissance, without instruments, a couple of men, with
as many pack-mules, a little flour and bacon, with some ground
coffee, and a blanket a piece, comprised all the preparation it was
thought needful to make, taking care, however, that the little party
should be well armed. 3
MEDICINE BUTTE—BEAR RIVER. 17
CHAPTER IV.
FROM FORT BRIDGER TO GREAT SALT LAKE CITY.
Monday, August 20.—We followed the Mormon road for several
miles, and then took a « cut-off’ leading more to the north, crossing
the dividing ridge between the waters of Muddy Fork, an affluent
of- Green River, and those of Bear River, which falls into the
Great Basin. We crossed the broad valley of Tar-Spring Creek,
a tributary of Bear River, where the two roads join. The “cut-
off’ has been abandoned on account of an almost impassable hill
at the dividing ridge. ‘This, and another almost equally steep, are
the only objections to this route, the rest of the way being excel-
lent. Leaving the Mormon road at the crossing of Bear River,
we followed down its valley six miles, as far as Medicine Butte, an
elevated knob in the valley. This is a spot well known among the
Indians, as that to which they were formerly in the habit of re-
pairing to consult their oracles, or ««medicine-men,” who had lo-
cated their ‘‘medicine lodge” in the vicinity of this little mountain.
The route of a road to reach the north end of Salt Lake should
pursue a nearly west course from Bridger’s Fort to this Butte, a
distance of about thirty miles; the country, according to the
representations of our guide, who has passed over it many times,
being extremely favourable.
At our encampment on Bear River, near this Butte, abundance
of speckled trout were caught, resembling in all respects the brook
trout of the States, except that the speckles are black instead of
yellow. An ox, which had strayed from some unfortunate emi-
grant, was found on the bank of the stream, in such capital condi-
tion that he was shot for food, and such portions as we could not
carry with us were most generously presented to a small encamp-
ment of Shoshonee Indians, whose wigwams were erected among
the bushes on the opposite side of the stream. It was curious to
see how perfectly every portion of the animal was secured by
them for food, even the paunch and entrails being thoroughly
washed for that purpose. The squaws acted as the butchers, and
displayed familiar acquaintance with the business, while the men
78 FROM FORT BRIDGER TO GREAT SALT LAKE CITY.
lounged about, leaning lazily upon their rifles, looking listlessly
on, as if it were a matter in which they were in no manner inte-
rested. They had quite a large number of horses and mules, and
their encampment betokened comparative comfort and wealth.
The bottom of Bear River is here four or five miles in breadth,
and is partially overflowed in the spring: the snow lies upon it
to the depth of four feet in the winter, which prevents the In-
dians from occupying it during that season of the year, for which
it would otherwise be well adapted.
In leaving Fort Bridger, we passed over horizontal lias beds.
About six miles to the north of the road, the country appeared to
be much broken up, and not solely by the action of water. The
Strata seemed dislocated and inclined, presenting much the same
appearance as those near Laramie. Near this point, Frémont
states that he found coal, which probably has been thrown up
here. At Ogden’s Hole, on the eastern slope of the Wahsatch
Mountains, we found the ranges of hills to be composed of the
carboniferous strata, thrown up at a very considerable angle; and
at Bear River, near our encampment of to-day, they were almost
perpendicular, the later strata being deposited by their side in
an almost horizontal position, with a very slight dip to the south-
east. At this latter point, the older sandstones were cropping out
at an angle of 35°; and on the opposite side of the river, the
same strata were seen with a dip in the contrary direction, the
valley being evidently an anticlinal axis.
Wednesday, August 22.—Crossing the broad valley of Bear
River diagonally, we forded that stream, and struck over a point of
bluff into a valley, the course of which being too much to the south
for our purpose, we passed over to another, and followed it to its
head, where it opens upon a long ridge, running to the south-west.
Instead of following the ridge, (which I afterward found should have
been done,) we crossed over two more ridges into a third valley,
in which was a small rapid stream running into Bear River.
Fearful of getting too far south, I ascended the western bluff of
this stream, in hopes of finding a valley or ridge the course of
which would give us more westing ; but the country, in that direc-
tion, was so much broken that we were forced still farther to the
south, and struck upon the heads of Pumbar’s Creek, a tribu-
tary of the Weber River, which latter discharges its waters into
the Great Salt Lake. This valley, our guide insisted, would lead
us in the right direction, and it was concluded to follow it down,
PUMBAR’S CREEK—RED CHIMNEY FORK. 79
which we did for about four miles, and bivouacked for the night.
We continued down this valley until the middle of the following
day, when, instead of the broad open appearance which it had at
first presented, it soon began to contract, until it formed a cafion,
with sides so steep that it was scarcely passable for mules. A
blind Indian-trail wound along the hillside, at an elevation of
several hundred feet above the stream, into which a single false
step of our mules would instantly have precipitated us. It re-
quired no small exertion of nerve to look down from this dizzy
height into the yawning gulf beneath. After following the cafion
some ten miles, we came to a broad valley coming into it from the
left, which the guide declared headed in the ridge from which we
had descended yesterday, and to the eastward of the route we had
taken. As all prospect of a road by the valley of Pumbar’s
Creek was now out of the question, I determined to follow up this
valley and ascertain whether a route could not be obtained in that
direction. ‘This was accordingly done, and we found it to be as
the guide had stated. This branch of Pumbar’s Creek, which we
called Red Chimney Fork, from the remarkable resemblance of
one of the projections of the cliffs to that object, we found to
have a very moderate descent from the ridge to its mouth, with
plenty of room for a road, requiring but little labour to moult
it a good one. The timber is small and consists of oak, black-
jack, aspen, wild-cherry, service-berry, and box-elder of large size.
In many places it is quite abundant.
On Pumbar’s Creek, the hills were composed of strata of mar-
ble and metamorphic sandstone, inclined at an angle of 80° to the
north-east. Lower down, the horizontal strata were found lying
by the side of these inclined rocks. On Red Chimney Fork, the
strata were nearly horizontal, consisting principally of layers of
red sandstone conglomerate, formed from metamorphic rocks with
calcareous cement, and white sandstone with layers of conglo-
merate interposed. Near its junction with Pumbar’s Creek, strata
of slaty shales occurred, cropping out at an angle of 70°.
Below the Red Chimney Fork, the valley of Pumbar’s Creek
opens sufficiently to allow the passage of a road through the bot-
tom; but, as its course was leading us from our intended direc-
tion, we availed ourselves of a ravine, which, a mile below, comes
into it from the north-west, and followed this up to its head, thus
attaining the height of the general level of the country. The
ascent is quite regular, but the road would have to be made all
80 FROM FORT BRIDGER TO GREAT SALT LAKE CITY.
the way up, and a considerable quantity of small cotton-wood tim-
ber cut out. ‘The upper strata on this branch appeared to be
nearly analogous to those met with on Red Chimney Fork. We
followed this ridge or table in a north-west direction for several
miles, when we became involved among numerous ravines which
ran to the south, and were too deep and abrupt to be available.
In order to avoid them, the trace must be thrown so much to the
north, that even were a road practicable up to this point, it would
be entirely too crooked; and great difficulty, moreover, would have ©
to be encountered in crossing the immense ravines which lay at
the eastern base of the ranges bordering the Salt Lake. Some of
these ravines run down into Ogden’s Creek, and others into Bear
River below the point at which we crossed it. Time would not
admit of my pursuing the examination farther in this direction.
My train had left Fort Bridger several days before me, and would
be awaiting my arrival at Great Salt Lake City to commence the
survey which was the more immediate object of the expedition.
I, therefore, although with the greatest reluctance, concluded to
make the best of my way to the lake, passing through Ogden’s
Hole, and thence crossing the high range dividing it from Salt
Lake Valley, by a pass which the guide informed me existed there.
We accordingly changed our course, and turning down a steep, nar-
row ravine for wood and water, encamped. The night was very cold,
and ice formed in the buckets nearly an inch thick. We constructed
a semicircular barricade of brush to keep off the wind, and, by the
aid of a large fire of pine-logs, passed the night very comfortably.
The soil on the ridge passed over to-day, seemed formed princi-
pally from red sandstone, and the boulders are primitive. The
country is much better wooded, the timber being willow, aspen,
and, in the ravines, tall firs and pines. The geranium was abund-
ant: two or three yellow composite and asters were observed.
Sunday, August 26.—Morning very cold. Ther. at sunrise,
16°. Our provisions being nearly exhausted, I determined to go
on for at least a part of the day, although contrary to my usual
practice, this being the first Sabbath on which any travelling has
been done since the party left the Missouri. After following some
miles down the ravine upon which we had encamped, we struck
~ upon an Indian lodge-trail, leading either to Cache Valley or to
Ogden’s Hole. This we followed in nearly a southerly direction,
crossing many deep hollows and very steep ridges, up which we
had to scramble, leading our mules, (it being impossible to ride,)
INDIAN SIGNAL-FIRES—OGDEN’S HOLE. 81
until we struck upon the head of a broad, green, beautiful valley,
with an even, gentle descent, which led us, in about three miles,
down to Ogden’s Creek, just before it makes a caiion, previous to
entering Ogden’s Hole. There we encamped for the remainder of
the day, with abundance of excellent grass, wood, and water. The
same alternations of red and white namdion appeared here as were ~
seen on the Red Chimney Fork. | :
Just before descending into this valley, we had observed from
the high ground, the smokes of numerous Indian signal fires, rising
in several directions—an intimation that strangers had been dis-
covered in their country. A strict watch was therefore maintained
during the night, lest our animals should be stolen. Wild cherries
were found in tolerable abundance, and the trail was strewn over
with their smaller branches, thrown away by the Indians, who had.
evidently passed only a day or two before, in considerable numbers.
Monday, August 27.—We followed down Ogden’s Creek about
a mile, when we found that the broad valley was shut up between
two ranges of hills; or rather mountains, leaving a flat, low, level
bottom, densely covered in places by willows, through which the
stream meanders from side to side, for three miles, washing alter-
nately the base of either range. After passing through this cafion,
the ridge separated, and before us lay a most lovely, broad, open
valley, somewhat in the shape of a crescent, about fifteen miles
long, and from five to seven miles in width, hemmed in on all sides,
especially on the south and west, by lofty hills and rocky moun-
tains, upon the tops and sides of which the snow glistened in the
rays of the morning sun. ‘The scene was cheering in the highest
degree. The valley, rich and level, was covered with grass;
springs broke out from the mountains in every direction, and the
facilities for irrigation appeared to be very great. Ogden’s Creek,
breaking through its barriers, flows in a crystal stream at the base
of the mountains on the south, for rather more than half the
length of the valley, when it forces a passage through the huge
range which divides this « gem of the desert’’ from the Salt Lake
Valley, by a caiion wild and almost impassable. On the north, a
beautiful little brook, taking its rise in the elevated ground sepa-
rating this from Cache Valley, washes the base of the western
hills, and joins Ogden’s Creek just before it enters the cafion, after
passing through which the latter discharges its waters into the
Weber River, a tributary of the Great Salt Lake. Numerous
bright little streams of pure running water were met with in abun-
82 FROM FORT BRIDGER TO GREAT SALT LAKE CITY.
dance, rendering this the most interesting and delightful spot we
had seen during our long and monotonous journey.
Rather more than half-way between the cafion of Ogden’s Creek
and the north end of the valley, a pass is found by which a cross-
ing of the mountain into the Salt Lake Valley can be effected.
The ascent of the western side is, for the first four or five hundred
yards, very abrupt and rocky, and would require a good deal of
grading to render a road practicable; but after this, little or no
labour would be necessary, except to cut away the brush, which, in
places, is quite thick. The length of the pass is about three miles,
and the height of the range through which it makes the cut, from
eight hundred to a thousand feet above the valleys on each side.
The valley of Ogden’s Creek, or Ogden’s Hole, (as places of this kind,
in the nomenclature of this country, are called,) has long been the
rendezvous of the North-west Company, on account of its fine range
for stock in the winter, and has been the scene of many a merry
réunion of the hardy trappers and traders of the mountains. Its
streams were formerly full of beaver, but these have, I believe, entirely
disappeared. Some few antelope were bounding over the green, but
the appearance of fresh «Indian sign’’ accounted for their scarcity.
During our ride through the valley we came suddenly on a
party of eight or ten Indian women and girls, each with a
basket on her back, gathering grass-seeds for their winter’s pro-
vision. They were of the class of ‘root-diggers,” or, as the
guide called them, «‘snake-diggers.”” The instant they discovered
us, an immediate and precipitate flight took place, nor could all the
remonstrances of the guide, who called loudly after them in their
own language, induce them to halt for a single moment. Those
who were too close to escape by running, hid themselves in the
bushes and grass so effectually, that in less time than it has taken
to narrate the circumstance, only two of them were to be seen.
These were a couple of girls of twelve or thirteen years of age,
who, with their baskets dangling at their backs, set off at their
utmost speed for the mountains, and continued to run as long as
we could see them, without stopping, or so much as turning their
heads to look behind them. The whole party was entirely naked.
After they had disappeared, we came near riding over two girls of
sixteen or seventeen, who had “cached” behind a large fallen tree.
They started up, gazed upon us for a moment, waved to us to con-
tinue our journey, and then fled with a rapidity that soon carried
them beyond our sight.
WAHSATCH MOUNTAINS—SALT LAKE VALLEY. 83
In the pass through which we entered Ogden’s Hole, the carboni-
ferous rocks were again found, thrown up at an angle of 70° or
80°, with a dip to the north-east. On the western side of the
high rangé of hills which extended to the north-west and formed
the eastern boundary of Ogden’s Hole, the edges of the strata
cropped out as if a great fault had been formed at the point of
elevation. No debris of primitive rock were discovered, nor was
any observed in place during the whole journey from Bridger’s
Fort. In the pass leading to Salt Lake, through the Wahsatch
range, the rock were metamorphic. Some beautiful specimens of
marble were observed, and also some white crystalline sandstones.
The strata again appeared on the western side of the range, and
were inclined to the north-east about 70°. The chain evidently
was not formed on a central axis. No fossils were collected dur-
ing this part of the journey, as we travelled rapidly, and the
means of transporting them were necessarily limited.
Descending the pass through dense thickets of small oak-trees,
we caught the first glimpse of the Great Satt Laxg, the long-
desired object of our search, and which it had cost us so many
weary steps to reach. A gleam of sunlight, reflected by the water,
and a few floating, misty clouds, were all, however, that we could
see of this famous spot, and we had to repress our enthusiasm for
some more favourable moment. I felt, nevertheless, no little grati-
fication in having at length attained the point where our labours
were to commence in earnest, and an impatient longing to enter
upon that exploration to which our toils hitherto had been but
preliminary.
Emerging from the pass, we entered the valley of the Salt Lake,
and descending some moderately high table-land, struck the road
from the Mormon settlements to the lower ford of Bear River,
whence, in two or three miles, we came to what was called Brown’s
Settlement, and rode up to quite an extensive assemblage of log
buildings, picketed, stockaded, and surrounded by out-buildings
and cattle-yards, the whole affording evidence of comfort and
abundance far greater than I had expected to see in so new a set-
tlement. Upon requesting food and lodging for the night, we
were told to our great surprise that we could not be accommodated,
nor would the occupants sell us so much as an egg or a cup of milk,
so that we were obliged to remount our horses; and we actually
bivouacked under some willows, within a hundred yards of this in-
hospitable dwelling, turning our animals loose, and guarding them
84. ARRIVAL AT GREAT SALT LAKE CITY.
all night, lest, in search of food, they should damage the crops of
this surly Nabal. From a neighbouring plantation we procured
what we needed ; otherwise we should have been obliged to go sup-
perless to bed. I afterward learned that the proprietor had been
a sort of commissary or quartermaster in Colonel Cook’s Mormon
Battalion, in California, and had some reason to expect and to
dread a visit from the civil officers of the United States, on ac-
count of certain unsettled public accounts; and that he had
actually mistaken us for some such functionaries. Subsequent
acts of a similar nature, however, fully evinced the ungracious
character of the man, strongly contrasted as it was with the frank
and generous hospitality we ever received at the hands of the
whole Mormon community.
The following day we reached the City of the Great Salt Lake,
and found that the train had arrived safely on the 23d, and was
now encamped near the Warm Springs on the outskirts of the city, —
awaiting my coming.
The result of the reconnoissance we had thus completed was
such as to satisfy me that a good road can be obtained from Fort
Bridger to the head of the Salt Lake; although I incline to the
opinion that it should pass farther north than the route taken by
me, entering the southern end of Cache Valley, probably by Black-
smith’s Fork, and leaving it by the cafion formed by Bear River
in making its way from that valley into the lake basin. A more
minute examination than the pressure of my other duties allowed
me time to make will, I think, result in the confirmation of this
view and the ultimate establishment of this road. Should such
prove to be the case, it will, in addition to shortening the distance,
open to the emigration, at the season they would reach it, the inex-
haustible resources of Cache Valley, where wood, water, abundance
of fish, and the finest range imaginable for any number of cattle,
offer advantages for recruiting and rest possessed by no other point
that I have seen on either side of the mountains.
Before reaching Great Salt Lake City, I had heard from various
sources that much uneasiness was felt by the Mormon community
at my anticipated coming among them. I was told that they would
never permit any survey of their country to be made; while it was
darkly hinted that if I persevered in attempting to carry it on,
my life would scarce be safe. Utterly disregarding, indeed giving
not the least credence to these insinuations, I at once called
upon BrigHam Young, the president of the Mormon church and
J Broadway NY
i
h
erman jit
Ack
Pi! ViiW OPseGRhAT SAG LAKE VALLEY FROM AMOUNTAIN FASS
RUMOURED HOSTILITY OF THE MORMON AUTHORITIES. 85
the governor of the commonwealth, stated to him what I had
heard, explained to him the views of the Government in directing
an exploration and survey of the lake, assuring him that these
were the sole objects of the expedition. He replied, that he did
not hesitate to say that both he and the people over whom he
presided had been very much disturbed and surprised that the
Government should send out a party into their country so soon
after they had made their settlement; that he had heard of the
expedition from time to time, since its outset from Fort Leaven-
worth; and that the whole community were extremely anxious as
to what could be the design of the Government in such a move-
ment. It appeared, too, that their alarm had been increased by
the indiscreet and totally unauthorized boasting of an attaché of
General Wilson, the newly-appointed Indian Agent for California,
whose train on its way thither had reached the city a few days be-
fore I myself arrived. This person, as I understood, had declared
openly that General Wilson had come clothed with authority from
the President of the United States to expel the Mormons from the
lands which they occupied, and that he would do so if he thought
proper. The Mormons very naturally supposed from such a de-
claration that there must be some understanding or connection
between General Wilson and myself; and that the arrival of the
two parties so nearly together was the result of a concerted and
combined movement for the ulterior purpose of breaking up and
destroying their colony. The impression was that a survey was to
be made of their country in the same manner that other public
lands are surveyed, for the purpose of dividing it into townships
and sections, and of thus establishing and recording the claims of
the Government to it, and thereby anticipating any claim the Mor-
mons might set up from their previous occupation. However un-
reasonable such a suspicion may be considered, yet it must be
remembered that these people are exasperated and rendered
almost desperate by the wrongs and persecutions they had pre-
viously suffered in Illinois and Missouri; that they had left the
confines of civilization and fled to these far distant wilds, that they
might enjoy undisturbed the religious liberty which had been prac-
tically denied them; and that now they supposed themselves to
be followed up by the General Government with the view of
driving them out from even this solitary spot, where they had
hoped they should at length be permitted to set up their habitation
- In peace.
_86 SALT LAKE CITY—BRIGHAM YOUNG.
Upon all these points I undeceived Governor Young to his entire
satisfaction. I was induced to pursue this conciliatory course, not
only in justice to the Government, but also because I knew, from
the peculiar organization of, this singular community, that, unless
the «« President” was fully satisfied that no evil was intended to his
people, it would be useless for me to attempt to carry out my in-
structions. He was not only civil governor, but the president of
the whole Church of Latter-Day Saints upon the earth, their pro-
phet and their priest, receiving, as they all firmly believed, direct
revelations of the Divine will, which, according to their creed, form
the law of the church. He is, consequently, profoundly revered
by all, and possesses unbounded influence and almost unlimited
power. I did not anticipate open resistance; but I was fully
aware that if the president continued to view the expedition with
distrust, nothing could be more natural than that every possible
obstruction should be thrown in our way by a “ masterly inactivity.”
Provisions would not be furnished; information would not be af-
forded; labour could not be procured; and no means would be
left untried, short of open opposition, to prevent the success of a
measure by them deemed fatal to their interests and safety. So
soon, however, as the true object of the expedition was fully under-
stood, the president laid the subject-matter before the council
called for the purpose, and I was informed, as the result of their
deliberations, that the authorities were much pleased that the ex-
ploration was to be made; that they had themselves contemplated
something of the kind, but did not yet feel able to incur the ex-
pense; but that any assistance they could render to facilitate our
operations would be most cheerfully furnished to the extent of their
ability. This pledge, thus heartily given, was as faithfully re-
deemed ; and it gives me pleasure here to acknowledge the warm
interest manifested and efficient aid rendered, as well by the
president as by all the leading men of the community, both in our
personal welfare and in the successful prosecution of the work.
LOWER FORD OF BEAR RIVER. i 8T
CHAPTER V.
EXPLORATION OF A ROUTE FROM GREAT SALT LAKE CITY TO FORT
HALL, AND RECONNOISSANCE OF CACHE VALLEY.
MattERS being thus satisfactorily adjusted, as the provisions
which had been laid in at the beginning of the journey were nearly
exhausted, I left the city on the 12th of September, with teams
and pack-mules, for Fort Hall, to procure the supplies for the party
which had been forwarded to that post by the supply-train at-
tached to Colonel Loring’s command; and at the same time to
carry out that portion of my instructions which directed me to ex-
plore a route for a road from the head of Salt Lake to Fort Hall.
The main party was left under the command of Lieutenant Gun-
nison, with instructions to commence the survey upon a basis already
laid down. I was accompanied on this trip by Mr. John Owen,
the sutler of the regiment of Mounted Rifles, and Mr. T. Pomeroy,
a merchant from St. Louis, on his way to California. Our route,
as far as the crossing of Bear River, near the head of the lake, was
that usually pursued by emigrants passing through Salt Lake City
to California. It skirts the eastern shore of the lake throughout
its whole length, from north to south, as far as the ford, where
the road turns off to the west. As the country passed over in this
part of the journey is embraced within the limits of the survey, it
requires, at present, no farther notice.
From the crossing, the emigrant road pursues a W.N. W. course,
until it intersects that from Fort Hall. 'The ford of Bear River
at this point is not very good. The banks are high and steep on
both sides, and the stream, which is about two hundred and fifty
feet wide, is quite rapid. The bottom is a hard, firm gravel. In
the spring and early part of summer, the waters are too high to
admit of fording, and temporary ferries become necessary. Leavy-
ing the emigrant road at this point, our route may be described,
generally, as following up the Malade (called by Frémont the
Roseaux) to its head; thence crossing a high dividing ridge, we
fall upon the heads of the Pannack, a tributary of the Port Neuf,
(which latter is an affluent of Lewis’s Fork of the Columbia,) and
88 FROM GREAT SALT LAKE CITY TO FORT HALL.
following down its valley to within five miles of Fort Hall, we cross
the Port Neuf, and passing over a wide level plain, reach that cele-
brated trading-post. But this line is deserving of notice rather
more in detail. About two miles above the ford, Bear River, in
emerging from Cache Valley, breaks through the chain forming
the eastern boundary of the valley of Salt Lake. The range,
which here sinks quite suddenly, for a short distance to the
south of the cafion or gate through which the river has forced its
passage, consists of low, rounded hills, which present no trace of
rock on the surface. ‘The river indeed appears to cut through
rock, but an opportunity did not occur to ascertain this by actual
observation. After crossing and following up its right bank for
two and a-half miles, we left the river, and struck into a broad and
beautiful valley, formed by the Roseaux, or Malade, which, flowing
from the north, discharges itself into Bear River some miles below
the ford. The valley is five or six miles wide, and its western
boundary is formed by a chain of high, rounded hills, being the
continuation of a lofty rocky promontory, projecting into the north
end of the Lake. The eastern boundary of this valley is formed
by the continuation, in a northern direction, of the Wahsatch range,
which divides it from the Bear River and Cache Valley. Ascend-
ing the valley, these mountains rise to a considerable height, the
strata dipping to the north-east, and the direction of the chain
inclining to the west. The valley of the Malade is extremely
level, free from underbrush, with very little artemisia, and affords
ground for an excellent wagon-road. Water to-day was found in
quantities sufficient for the animals, at points conveniently distri-
buted, and grass was abundant. Several fine springs were passed,
in which the water was cold and clear. Continuing up the valley
until four o’clock, we came to a superb little stream, coming out
of the eastern mountain, running with great swiftness over a bed
_ of breccia, and discharging a large quantity of clear, cold water.
“The fall was great and the quantity of water ample for the irri-
gation of a very large farm, for which the lay of the land offers
great facilities. Here we encamped, with plenty of fine grass.
Distance from the city, one hundred and three miles; and from
Bear River ford, twenty-four and a-half.
Thursday, September 20.—Our march to-day was only eleven
miles, owing to the necessity of making a road across a small
stream with steep banks, which comes through a depression in the
eastern hills, through which a road from Sheep Rock, near the
VALLEY OF THE MALADE. 89
Soda Springs, had been partially explored by Mr. Owen, whose
‘wagons had come through it some two weeks since, on their way to
Salt Lake City. He describes the country as rough and rolling,
with several high and steep ridges to be crossed. The road to-day
has been level, with wood and water abundant. Encamped on the
left bank of the Malade, here six feet wide and two feet deep.
Friday, September 21.—Following up the left bank of the Ma-
lade for four miles, we crossed a small swift fork coming in from
the north-east, affording abundance of water for irrigating a con-
siderable extent of its valley on each side. The valley of the Ma-
lade is becoming gradually narrower and the hills lower. Crossing
another fork from the east, we strike upon «« Hedspeth’s Cut-off,”’
which leads from Sheep Rock, near the Soda Springs, to the Mor-
mon road at Goose Creek. ssepicinue one hundred and twenty-five
and a-half miles.
The valley of the Malade seems to be formed principally of
whitish clay, in which, however, no good section was found, so that
it is uncertain whether it presents any stratification. Occasionally
ridges of limestone and conglomerate push out from the side of the
mountains; and in one instance the river was found flowing over a
bed of breccia. The rock on the west side of the valley consisted
of dark compact limestone, with a dip of 20° to the south-west.
Shortly after reaching the Cut-off, a belt of high hills extended
across the valley from east to west, composed of dark limestone
containing a considerable number of fossils. These hills we
ascended by one of the handsomest passes I had seen in the
country. The inclination in no instance exceeds 5°; the soil is
hard and porous; the natural road perfectly drained. The length
of the pass is four miles, from the summit of which we descended
to the east fork of the Malade, upon which we encamped, with in-
tensely cold, pure water, willows for firewood, and good grass.
In the pass some specimens of obsidian and volcanic debris were
collected, evidently of secondary formation, and not conformable
with the limestone ridges. Trachytic rock was also found on the
side of the stream, forming a considerable hill, and overlaid by
dark limestone. |
Saturday, September 22.—Directly after starting, crossed the
east fork of the Malade, and still following the Cut-off, the track
of which is hard and well beaten, we ascended another pass, in a
north direction, very similar in its character to that we came up
yesterday. From the top of this pass, which is the dividing ridge
90 FROM GREAT SALT LAKE CITY TO FORT HALL.
between the Malade and the waters of the Port Neuf, the road
descends by a gentle slope to the dry bed of a small stream, which
forms a narrow gorge; emerging from which, and proceeding north,
we descended to a small stream forming one of the heads of a
branch of the Port Neuf. It flows at the foot of a spur of the
range of hills which constitute the dividing ridge between it and
the Pannack, (another affluent of the Port Neuf,) and rises in a
broad valley lying to the westward of the road. It is bounded on
the west by a high range of hills extending to the southward, and
in that direction forming the « divide’ between the waters of the
Malade and those of the Pannack.
The secondary or lower hills in this valley seem to be composed
principally of white clay containing volcanic debris. Crossing the
stream, we left the cut-off altogether, and turning to the left,
crossed over this ridge, which, where we crossed it, is very high
and steep, and a mile and a-half in width. Descending its western
slope, we struck upon the heads of one of the main forks of the
Pannack, down which an excellent road can be obtained without
difficulty, the descent being moderate and the ground generally
level.
Descending the valley of this stream, we encamped on its right
bank with plenty of grass, fine cool water, and a profusion of
willows for fuel. Day’s march, fifteen miles.
At the dividing ridge between the waters of the Port Neuf and
the Malade, the direction of the stratification has evidently changed.
Near the south end of the pass, an escarpment of dark limestone
is seen on the eastern side, lying on and conformable with layers
of feldspathic rock. A short distance farther on, the same rock is
again seen, overlaying the dark limestone, and with a dip of about
50° to the north-east. From this point the centre of elevation,
consisting evidently of this hypogene rock, appears to take a di-
rection to the north-west, striking the chain of hills contmued
from the west side of the valley of the Malade. It is plainly to
be seen that this has been a region of great disturbance, which
did not cease until a period subsequent to the deposition of the
secondary rocks that repose on the limestones, although not con-
formable with them. Passing this ridge, several high conical hills
were observed on the right, which seemed to be formed of second-
ary rocks, the stratification of which was apparently much more
horizontal than that of the limestones. The dividing ridge be-
tween the Port Neuf and the Pannack is composed of dark lime-
VALLEY OF THE PANNACK. 91
stones, altered shales, and veins of the same feldspathic rock noticed
in the pass. The strata were inclined east by north, at an angle
of 70°. The ridge seems to run a little west of north, until it
disappears in the valley of the Snake River. Upon the summit
of this «+ divide” was found what was at first thought to be altered
coal, but upon farther examination it appeared to be an aluminous
rock, containing but a small trace of carbonate of lime. Its
colour was black, hardness greater than that of feldspar, and the
form a rhombic prism. The limestone was crystalline, and con-
tained numerous specimens of shells and corals, but in so altered
a state that it was impossible to determine them.
The length of the fork of the Pannack which we descended is
sixteen miles. It pursues a westerly direction, until it joins the
main stream, which latter flows from the southward, through what
appeared to be a well-defined valley. The ground for a road is ex-
cellent, with only one or two exceptions, which are not of a serious
character.
On descending the dividing ridge in which it heads, the rocks
were hidden by a black, rich soil; occasional boulders of granite
were seen on the surface, but no section could be obtained until
we came to a gorge about five miles down the valley. Here the
river cuts through a much lower ridge of hills, composed of lime-
stone, dipping to the east, at an angle of about 63°: below this the
stream has cut its bed through secondary hills formed of argilla-
ceous sandstone and clay, both of which are white, and mixed with
pieces of obsidian and occasional boulders of serpentine: still
lower down the valley, a section in a ravine to the right of the
road, discovered some rocks which might almost be considered
cretaceous ; alternating with white argillaceous sandstone, they con-
tamed a considerable quantity of organic remains, principally
coral, but so much altered by heat that it was impossible to dcter-
mine them with precision. The dip of these strata was about 40°
north-east. The beds were covered by the remains of disaggre-
gated conglomerate, composed principally of porphyry and granite.
Proceeding down the stream, metamorphic sandstones, crystallized
almost to the whiteness of white quartz, were found, forming es-
carpments of the lower hills; a short distance below iki, point, a
ridge of hills, composed of limestone, shales, and red sandstone,
extended across the valley; they were all much inclined, with a
dip to the east. At this point, where the river cuts a passage
through this chain, a mass of feldspathic rock was seen. The dip
92 FROM GREAT SALT LAKE CITY TO FORT HALL.
of these strata and also of the crystalline sandstone was about
E.8.E., at an angle of from 60° to 70°.
carn the junction of the two forks, the valley changes its direc-
tion to the N. N. W., which it maintains until it merges in that of |
the Port Neuf, a sraieines of eighteen miles; it becomes broader, the
bottoms are high, hard, very level, and entirely covered with arte-
misia. Coarse red metamorphic sandstone was found on the side
of the valley at this point, with a considerable dip to the north-east.
Clayey shales also occurred; and, from the appearance of the soil,
a great deal of argillaceous rock, must-exist in the vicinity. Five
miles below the forks, a remarkable isolated hill stands on the
western side of the valley, called by the traders the «“ Windmill
Rock.” Here a dike of trap was met with, running north-east and
south-west, forming the axis of a chain extending across the valley,
and of which the isolated hill seemed to form a part. The dike
constituted the summit of a high hill on the east side of the river:
on the west side, the same rock was found, but not sohigh. Meta-
morphic sandstone (red) was found overlaying the trap, and what
appeared to be porous basalt was found in considerable abundance:
no section of the stratification of the sandstone could be obtained.
Beyond this point, the valley of the Pannack gradually sinks
down into that of the Snake River. The hills that enclose it are
not high, and seem formed almost wholly of white clay; at least,
this was the only soil exposed, even in some very deep ravines.
The same character of soil is found on the whole country this sons
of Snake River.
Twelve miles from the forks, we leave the Pannack, which there
makes a curve to the westward, around the point of a ridge which
is quite low, and the ascent gentle and regular. Upon reaching
the level of the table-land, nothing was to be seen, as far as the
eye could reach, but the eternal artemisia, which had taken com-
plete possession of this barren, dreary waste, and extended quite
to the Port Neuf. Upon reaching this stream, we struck upon
the emigrant road by Fort Hall to California; and descending a
bluff, or rather a cliff, two hundred feet in height, and composed
entirely of argillaceous soil, we crossed the Port Neuf and en-
tered the valley of the Columbia. From the top of the bluff, an
extensive level plain, clothed with grass, is spread out before us,
like a beautiful picture; while the fringe of heavy timber, stretch-
ing far away to the north and west, indicates the position of
Lewis’s Fork of the great river of the West. Five miles to the
VALLEY OF LEWIS FORK OF THE COLUMBIA. 93
north, Fort Hall, with its whitewashed walls, is plainly in view.
The «Three Buttes” rise in the distance, while the Port Neuf,
with its bright, sparkling waters, flows at our feet. The scene was
one of surpassing beauty, and richly repaid us for our dreary ride
across the desert plain of sage.
The Port Neuf, where we forded it, is a fine, clear, bold stream,
one hundred yards wide and three feet deep, with a moderately
rapid current and pebbly bottom. ‘The plain between it and Snake
River presents a level bottom, formed principally of decomposed
vegetable mould, reposing on sandy loam and gravel. Numerous
springs of cold, pellucid water, abounding in speckled trout of de-
licious flavour, break out in every direction, giving rise to many
little streams, which rapidly increase in size and afford great
facilities for irrigation as well as for the construction of mills.
Passing over this delightful plain, we left Fort Hall on our left,
and five miles beyond it terminated our journey, at Cantonment
Loring, our point of destination.
I was most courteously received by Lieutenant-Colonel An-
drew Porter and the officers of his command, which consisted
of two companies of the regiment of Mounted Rifles, left here by
Colonel Loring on his way to Oregon, with the view of selecting
a permanent post for the protection of the vast emigration across
the continent. The troops were quartered in tents, but were
busily engaged in the erection of quarters, of a more substantial
character, for the winter.
The result of this exploration has been to demonstrate the entire
practicability of obtaining an excellent wagon-road from Fort
fall to the Mormon settlement upon the Great Salt Lake. With
the exception of the ridge dividing the waters of the Pannack
from those of another affluent of the Port Neuf, the line traced
is unexceptionable, and offers facilities for the best natural road I
ever saw. Although when we passed there had not been even a track
broken, so favourable is the surface of the country that I trans-
ported my provisions over it without the slightest difficulty, load-
ing my wagons with not less than thirty-five hundred pounds each.
The ridge referred to can, by a little labour, be rendered easy to
cross; and even as it is, offers but little obstruction. In seasons
of high water, Bear River and the Port Neuf would have to be
crossed by ferries; or, should the travel ever demand it, timber for
the construction of bridges could be obtained in the vicinity of
both localities.
94 RECONNOISSANCE OF CACHE VALLEY.
The supply-train from Fort Leavenworth, with my provisions,
had not arrived at the post, as I expected, and I was consequently
detained until the 6th of October, when, having obtained them, I set
out onmyreturn. ‘The frank and generous hospitality we received
during our stay at the post demands a grateful acknowledgment.
Returning, I was accompanied by Colonel Porter, with a small
escort, as far as the crossing of Bear River. He was desirous
that we should make conjointly a reconnoissance of Cache Valley,
to ascertain its fitness for the location there of a permanent mili-
tary post. |
Following the same route which I had taken when coming up,
we arrived at Bear River on the evening of the 11th, and en-
camped. The examination of Cache Valley occupied several days.
Crossing over the range of low, rounded hills through which Bear
River has cut a passage, we entered this beautiful and picturesque
valley, which was then covered with a profusion of rich green
grass, and adorned and diversified by numerous clumps of willows.
Our attempt to cross it directly was frustrated by meeting with a
deep, quiet stream, called the Muddy, which rises in the hills
dividing the southern end of the valley from Ogden’s Hole, and
winds through the tall grass without banks, until it discharges its
waters into Bear River, just before that stream enters the valley
of the Salt Lake. We were in consequence driven some eight
miles to the south, and effected our crossing where the valley is
full of swampy springs, affording abundance of good sweet water,
and excellent grass. Speckled trout of large size abounded in the
streams. After crossing the Muddy, we skirted the eastern side
of the valley for thirty-five miles in a northerly direction, crossing
successively Blacksmith’s Fork, Logan’s Fork, High Fork, Gros
Bois, and Rush Creek, all tributaries of Bear River, which latter
stream traverses the valley from the north, until it breaks through
the range forming its western boundary and enters that of the
lake. The streams on the east side take their rise m a heavy
range running to the north and constituting the eastern limit of
the valley, which has an average width of about ten miles. The
cafions which they form before leaving the mountains abound in
timber, consisting principally of cotton-wood, with some maple.
They afford desirable facilities for irrigation, presenting at the same
time advantageous sites for the erection of mills. These ravines
abound in fine timber in quantities sufficient for fuel and building
purposes.
CACHE VALLEY. 95
As the object of the reconnoissance was principally to ascertain
what were the capabilities of this valley to afford sustenance for a
military post, if established in its vicinity, the examination was but
a general one, and was not directed to the selection of any particu-
lar portion of it for sucha purpose. At the time the reconnoissance
was made, all the information that could be obtained from the oldest
mountain-men, induced both Colonel Porter and myself to believe
that it was one of the most eligible spots in the whole country for
wintering stock. It had been a rendezvous for the American Fur
Company for many years, and stock had been wintered there by
them with great advantage. The snow was seldom deep, and the
cattle not only retained their flesh, but grew fat during the winter.
So flattering were the appearances, and so great the advantages
offered by this lovely valley, that nearly the whole number of cattle
and mules belonging to the cantonment were, upon the return of
Colonel Porter to that post, driven down here under the care of a
proper guard, to be wintered. The season, however, proved un-
usually severe; the snow fell in the valley to a depth unprecedented ;
and more than one-half of the herd, in which were included some
of my own animals, perished in consequence. The fact of the lia-
bility of the valley to a similar occurrence in future will doubtless
have its due influence in finally deciding upon its eligibility as the
best site for a post in the vicinity of Salt Lake.
The soil of the valley is very rich, being principally alluvial, with
a great deal of vegetable mould. Facilities for irrigation are very
great, and water could be commanded to a large extent for farming
purposes. Any amount of hay might be cut without in the least in-
terfering with the range for cattle. The only objection to this, as a
most desirable spot for settlement, is the danger from snow; and
even this might be in a great degree obviated, by the erection of
suitable sheds for protection of the stock during the more severe
portions of the seasons. These seldom last beyond a few weeks.
Should the road to which I have already adverted be established
from Fort Bridger, through the valley of Blacksmith’s Fork, it
would at once attract to it the travel to Oregon and California; a
fact which would have its due weight in the selection of a site for a
military post for the protection of this part of the country.
The advance of the season precluded the making of much geo-
logical examination beyond the immediate vicinity of the route
travelled, which led through the valley at the base of the ranges.
The only rocks met with were those composing the lower hills,
96 CACHE VALLEY.
which consisted principally of conglomerates overlaying some argil-
laceous sandstones and beds of white and red clay. The conglome-
rates on the lower hills were formed principally of dark limestone,
much worn. On the higher benches, large boulders: of feldspar
were found. Albite and serpentine also occurred, and metamor-
phic sandstones, some of which were very beautifully veined, as if
the strata had been disturbed before they had hardened.
Returning to the southern end of the valley, we again struck the
Muddy, and followed it up to where it forks, amid the hills forming
the « divide” from Ogden’s Hole. The eastern fork makes an im-
passable cafion, but we followed up the west fork about four miles,
whence we crossed the Wahsatch range, and descended into a beau-
tiful, level, circular valley, about a mile in diameter, hemmed in by
an amphitheatre of lofty and steep mountains. Several fine springs
head in this singular little hollow, which uniting and emerging on
the south-west side, form the head of Box-elder Creek, a tributary
of the Salt Lake. The pass or gorge through which this little
stream rushes down the mountain to the plains below is steep,
rugged, and very narrow, being in places scarcely passable for
mules. I had hoped it would afford a passage over the range for
wagons, but this I soon found to be impracticable. Descending
this wild pass for about two miles, we reached the lake valley, and
repaired to our camp on Bear River.
In crossing the Wahsatch range at this point, the lower hills on
the eastern side were composed of broken conglomerate. Large
boulders of serpentine were met with on the surface, and also al-
tered sandstones and limestones. Ascending from Cache Valley,
the dark limestones were found cropping out, but the surface was
so completely covered with vegetable soil that no section could be
obtained. The limestones seemed to form the summits of the highest
elevation of the range, but as we passed through the deep gorge
of Box-elder Creek, this could not be positively ascertained. No
trap was observed, but large boulders of granite were seen in the
sides of the pass. ‘The rocks had been so much worn, and the.
surface was so covered by fallen masses, that no section of the
stratification was visible.
PREPARATION FOR EXPLORATION. 97
CHAPTER VI.
RECONNOISSANCE OF THE DESERTS AROUND THE WESTERN SHORES OF
THE GREAT SALT LAKE.
Tux two following days were busily occupied in making prepa-
_ ration for an exploration around the western shore of the lake,
which I desired to complete previous to entering upon a more
minute survey of its waters. The expedition was deemed neces-
sary, to enable me as well to ascertain its general features as to
gain some knowledge of the means and appliances necessary to
carry on the survey with safety and expedition. By the old moun-
tain-men such a reconnoissance was considered not only hazardous
in the highest degree, but absolutely impracticable, especially at
so late a season of the year. In this opinion they were confirmed
by the representations of the Indians, who represented water to
be extremely scarce and the country destitute of game. It was
affirmed that the contemplated circuit had been repeatedly at-
tempted by old and experienced trappers, in search of beaver, but
always without success; the adventurers being invariably obliged
to return with the loss of most of their animals. This was dis-
couraging ; but im addition to these objections, it was known that
mortal offence had been taken by the Shoshonee or Snake Indians,
{through whose country we would be obliged to pass,) arising from
a gross and wanton outrage which had been a short time before
inflicted upon them by a company of unprincipled emigrants, by
whom their women had been most brutally treated, and their
friends murdered while attempting to defend them. Fears were
entertaimed lest, in the wilds of this inhospitable region, where
foot of white man had never trod, we should fall a sacrifice to the
just vengeance of those infuriated savages.
Having determined, however, that the examination was necessary
to enable me to carry out the instructions of the department, I re-
solved to proceed, or at least to make the attempt. My prepara-
tions were simply to kill a beef and dry as much of the flesh as we
could carry upon our pack-mules; since it would have been unsafe to
risk the existence of the party upon the chances of killing game by
7
f
98 RECONNOISSANCE AROUND GREAT SALT LAKE.
the way. We also provided ourselves with three India-rubber bags,
of the capacity of five gallons each, and a small keg, for transport-
ing water across the desert; some sacks of flour, a small tent with-
out poles, a tent-fly, and a blanket to each man. In addition, each
person carried a few pounds of fresh beef attached to his saddle,
which might be used before resorting to our store of dried meat.
Thus equipped and well armed, we set out on the afternoon of the
19th of October, the little party numbering five men and sixteen
mules. The provision-train for the surveying party was sent forward
by the emigrant road, on the east side of the lake, under Lieutenant
Howland, with orders to report to Lieutenant Gunnison at Salt Lake
City. Colonel Porter had left us the day previous, on his return to
Cantonment Loving.
From the ford of Bear River we followed the emigrant road
westward for about four miles, which brought us to the Malade
River. The crossing here was very difficult, and we found it impos-
sible to get our animals over with their packs on, because of the depth
of water; they were accordingly unloaded and dragged or driven
over, one at a time, and some of them came near being swamped
in the soft, sticky mud cemposing the bottom. The men were
obliged to strip, and carry the packs over on their heads, the lighter
articles being thrown across. Wood was very scarce: we had but
artemisia-bushes and a few charred sticks found amid the ashes
of the extinguished fires left by the emigrants. These were, how-
ever, sufficient for cooking purposes. Grass there was none; and
we began already to have some foretaste of the hardships to which
our poor animals were about to be expesed. The night was cold;
thermometer 22°. As wood could not be obtained even for tent-
poles, we contented ourselves with stretching our weary bodies
upon the ground, and, wrapped in our blankets, slept soundly till
the morning.
The bottoms of Bear River and the Malade are composed of
white clay, in which no trace of organic remains was discovered.
The current of the Malade is here slow, and the water brackish
and nauseous.
Saturday, October 20.—Ther. at daylight, 26°. Contimued on
the emigrant road about four miles, when we left it and turned
more to the southward, with the intention of doubling a lofty
promontory that puts into the lake from the north, and forms the
western boundary of the Malade valley. In about a mile we came
upon three or four beautiful springs of clear, bright water: they
_ MUD PLAINS—SHOSHONEE INDIANS. 99
were gushing out from a rocky point, (of dark limestone and coarse
argillaceous sandstone, with a dip of about 20° to the east,) and
~ unite to form a branch which runs southward some miles, and then
sinks in the sand, before reaching the lake. The water was, how-
ever, warm, brackish, and entirely unfit for drinking. Following
down this stream for several miles, we struck on a succession of
bare, level plains, composed of white clay and mud, with occasion-
ally pieces of limestone and obsidian scattered on the surface.
These dreary plains were occasionally separated from each other,
by patches of salt grass and scattered clumps of artemisia. They
had apparently formed, at some remote period, a part of the lake,
and it is probable were partially covered during the freshet months.
Some portions of the ground were still moist, and too soft to admit
the passage of our mules without danger of miring. Where dry,
the surface was hard and smooth.
In the afternoon, as I felt apprehensive of being overtaken by
night without water for our animals, we turned more to the west-
ward, and directed our steps toward the promontory range pre-
viously mentioned. Before reaching it, however, we came upon
a small stream, fifteen feet wide and a foot deep, but it was quite
salt, and almost unfit to drink; yet, as we had no prospect of find-
ing better, we were fain:to bivouac on its bank for the night.
Artemisia was abundant, furnishing plenty of excellent fuel,
although it reminded me somewhat of the scriptural phrase,
‘crackling of thorns under a pot,” so constantly did the fire
require replenishing. Day’s travel, twenty-two miles.
Sunday, October 21.—Ther. at daybreak, 27°. There being
“neither grass nor water at this point, we left it early, and made in
a south-west direction for the foot of the mountain, travelling over
a hard, even surface of dry mud, as level as a floor and without a
particle of vegetation of any kind. Before reaching the base of
the hills, we descried some Indians at a distance, who, as soon as
they discovered us, commenced a most rapid and precipitate flight.
As they were on foot, I despatched the guide after them at full
gallop to bring them to a parley, being desirous of obtaining from
them some information, and if possible, to prevail upon some of
them to act as guides through the unknown regions before us.
The man overtook them at the foot of the mountain, when several
of them, finding their retreat about to be cut off, halted, and ad-
vanced upon him with their guns presented, but were restrained
from firing by an old Indian, who seemed to act as their chief.
100 RECONNOISSANCE AROUND GREAT SALT LAKE.
As soon as they perceived the rest of our party moving toward
them from the plain, the whole band, consisting of some six or
eight men and half a dozen squaws, retreated incontinently up the
mountain, and in a few minutes totally disappeared, nor did we
see them again. As we continued to advance, we passed through
their encampment, which they had abandoned in such haste that
they left every thing as it was at the moment of their flight—
the kettle was boiling over the fire, and a good gun rested against
a bush. We left all untouched, and did not even dismount, as we
knew they were watching us from behind the rocks, and I was de-
sirous of convincing them of our peaceable disposition.
Following down the eastern base of the promontory for about two
miles, we éncamped on a small spring-branch, coming down from the
mountains, furnishing very tolerable water and plenty of grass—
refreshment most welcome to our jaded and famished animals,
which had not had a full meal for nearly two days. At the In-
dian camp there was a spring, but the water, although abundant,
was salt and unfit for use. ‘Temperature of the spring, 84°. The
mountain or main promontory seemed to be composed of limestone,
altered shales, and sandstones: it rises from fifteen hundred to
two thousand feet.
Monday, October 22.—Ther. at sunrise 25°. Morning clear
and calm. The Salt Lake, which lay about half a mile to the
eastward, was covered by immense flocks of wild geese and ducks,
among which many swans were seen, being distinguishable by
their size and the whiteness of their plumage. I had seen large
flocks of these birds before, in various parts of our country, and
especially upon the Potomac, but never did I behold any thing ©
like the immense numbers here congregated together. Thousands
of acres, as far as the eye could reach, seemed literally covered
with them, presenting a scene of busy, animated cheerfulness, in
most graceful contrast with the dreary, silent solitude by which
we were immediately surrounded.
Our course until noon was south, along the base of the high pro-
montory which puts into the lake from the north. On our left, for
about three miles from our encampment, was an isolated knob or hill,
separated from the main range by a grassy plain. It consisted of
limestone and slaty shales, in the former of which were some small
caves. The rocks were thrown up at a very high angle, and in some ©
places were perpendicular, and rested, as far as could be ascertained,
on a primitive formation below. Toward the southern end of the
i
’
)
PANORAMIC
‘Ackerman, Lith 379BrvadwayN”
AMIC
PROMONTORY RANGE—VIEW OF THE LAKE. 101 ©
promontory, the limestones.disappeared, and the surface rock was
formed of conglomerate composed chiefly of the older sedimentary
rocks, and some boulders of serpentine and porphyry. Upon ex-
amining several isolated masses of this, it was found that each stone
(principally rounded pebbles of quartz) was surrounded by a crystal-
line layer of satin spar, as if it had formed a nucleus around which
the lime had crystallized. In about ten miles we reached the south-
ern extremity of this high rocky range, where it juts into the lake.
Within this distance we passed five or six springs, some of them
with very good water, bursting from the foot of the mountain.
Innumerable salt and sulphur springs break out of the bank all
along, but are soon lost in the broad sand and mud flat which
lies between the banks and the water. This flat is about two
miles broad, entirely without vegetation, and has, I think, been
slightly covered by the lake in the spring and summer. Both
yesterday and to-day, considerable quantities of small drift-wood
was seen lying on the sands—a fact which favours this opinion.
The mirage along the lake shore, and above the moist, oozy
plains, has been, for the last two days, very great, giving rise to
optical illusions the most grotesque and fantastic, and rendering all
estimate of the distance or form of objects vague and uncertain.
Two miles farther we reached a small rill of brackish, indifferent
water, upon which we bivouacked, fearing to go on, lest we should
be left without any.
The evening was mild and bland, and the scene around us
one of exciting interest. At our feet and on each side lay the
waters of the Great Salt Lake, which we had so long and so ar-
dently desired to see. They were clear and calm, and stretched
far to the south and west. Directly before us, and distant only
a few miles, an island rose from eight hundred to one thousand
feet in height, while in the distance other and larger ones shot up
from the bosom of the waters, their summits appearing to reach
the clouds. On the west appeared several dark spots, resembling.
other islands, but the dreamy haze hovering over this still and
solitary sea threw its dim, uncertain veil over the more distant fea-
tures of the landscape, preventing the eye from discerning any one
object with distinctness, while it half revealed the whole, leaving
ample scope for the imagination of the beholder. The stillness of
the grave seemed to pervade both air and water; and, excepting
here and there a solitary wild-duck floating motionless on the
bosom of the lake, not a living thing was to be seen. The night
* 102 RECONNOISSANCE AROUND GREAT SALT LAKE.
proved perfectly serene, and a young moon shed its tremulous light
upon a sea of profound, unbroken silence. I was surprised to find,
although so near a body of the saltest water, none of that feeling
of invigorating freshness which is always experienced when in the
vicinity of the ocean. The bleak and naked shores, without a sin-
gle tree to relieve the eye, presented a scene so different from what
I had pictured in my imagination of the beauties of this mais.
spot, that my disappointment was extreme.
Tuesday, October 23.—Ther. at daylight, 87°. Morning eal
and calm; the lake and mountains to the eastward yet wrapped in
mist. The west side of the extremity of the promontory is composed
of porphyry, interspersed with seams of white quartz, which
veined it in the most beautiful manner. The quartz veins in some
instances were several feet thick. These rocks, evidently in place,
rose boldly, forming escarpments looking to the south-west, with a
dip, apparently to the north, of about 50°. Decomposed lime-
stone, containing organic remains, and also trap rock, were here
observed. The ground near our encampment was covered with a
species of Astragalus, the seed-pods of which were covered by a
- substance resembling cotton, and presented the appearance of oval
white balls, about the size of a robin’s egg. I afterward found
this plant upon most of the islands of the lake.
Rounding the point of the promontory, the shore of the lake
trends off to the northward, forming several picturesque little bays
with bold rocky headlands. After travelling about nine miles, we
came to several springs of good and most welcome water, and we
stopped to refresh our animals and to noon. The finding of this
water was entirely unexpected, as, from the representations of an
old Shoshonee Indian, made to us before leaving Bear River, I did
not look for any for two days, and had in consequence dismounted
one of the men to enable us to carry the more vessels, all of which
had been filled before leaving our camp in the morning. I went
down to the shore of the lake to taste of the water: it was as salt as
very strong brine, and clear and transparent as diamond. A large
flock of gulls was swimming about near the shore. After feasting our
animals upon the grass that grew among the tall rushes and canes
around the spring, we continued along the shore of the lake for
about nine miles farther, and succeeded in discovering three springs
within that distance, at the last of which we halted for the night. ©
After doubling the southern end of the promontory, the broad
flais, which had characterized the shore at its eastern base, en-
AVE NNTVY WOdd GNVISI SHdOTSHLINV 40 LYVd GNV GNVISI S.LNOWAYa 30 GNA LSamM
AN Aempeorg ¢/¢ Wr] BEMLaPApYy Z
WESTERN BASE OF PROMONTORY RANGE. 108
_ tirely disappeared, and the water, although apparently shallow,
came nearly up to the base of the hills. Near the margin of the
lake it is not safe in all places for animals to pass, as the almost
constant exudations of salt water from the edge of the grass, un-
dermine the surface, rendering the narrow intervening beach
treacherous and miry. The water to the westward appears bold
and deep; and enough has been seen to convince me that a large
sail-boat will be absolutely indispensable in the contemplated sur-
vey, for the supply of the different parties with provisions and
water. Wood there is none. Fuel for cooking, can, however, be
generally obtained from the artemisia which abounds almost every-
where; but timber for the construction of the triangulation sta-
tions, will, in most instances, have to be transported by water, or
hauled down from the cafions of the mountains.
The rocks observed were porphyry, gneiss, dark slaty shales, and
metamorphic sandstone, dipping to the north-east. After proceed-
ing some miles to the north, dark limestones with white marble
veins occurred, alternating with clayey shales. The rocks on this
side of the promontory are much more rugged than on the other,
or eastern slope, presenting numerous lofty escarpments where
they crop out, the dip being to the east. A cactus, with very long
prickles, was observed near our morning camp; and at the spring
where we nooned, a small jointed cane trailed on the ground, in
some instances to a distance of more than thirty feet. The men
made excellent pipe-stems of this material. The spring where we
encamped for the night was an oval hole-or pit, with perpendicular
sides, about fifteen feet long, six broad, and four deep. The water
was tolerably good: a small spring, rising at the base of the
hill, ran into the lake close by. These springs afterward afforded
us nearly all the water used upon the survey of the west shore of
the lake; but a voyage of fifty miles was frequently necessary to
obtain a supply even for a few days.
Wednesday, October 24.—Clear and calm. Ther. at daylight,
19°; sunrise, 24°. Continuing our journey up the lake-shore, we
shortly came to a brackish spring, where there had been a camp of
Indians the night before. We had thought last night that we saw
their fires, but they had fled, alarmed probably by the report of
some guns that had been discharged in ourcamp. A quantity of
some species of seeds they had been beating out lay in small heaps
around, and I found an old water-bottle they had left in their haste.
It was ingeniously woven of a sort of sedge-grass, coated inside
104 RECONNOISSANCE AROUND GREAT SALT LAKE.
with the gum of the mountain pine, by which it was rendered per-
fectly water-tight. I afterward saw some similarly shaped vessels,
and made of the same material, that would hold nearly two gallons.
As nothing was to be gained by rigidly following the lake-shore,
I determined to cut across the projecting points, keeping the gene-
ral features of the lake inview. At this point we came upon a low
range of basaltic hills, extending some miles west of the mountains
which continued to the northward, and presenting a steep escarp-
ment on the lake, where we again struck it. This lower series of
hills extended also to the north, and we followed along their base
for many miles, the range gradually falling off to the east as we
advanced. The general soil was white clay, formed from the de-
composition of the rocks. At three o’clock, having travelled
eighteen miles without water, we halted, removed the packs from
the backs of our weary beasts, and served out from our scanty store
a pint of water to each mule, which the famished creatures eagerly
drank from a tin pan. We remained here a couple of hours, to
allow them to graze on some tolerably good bunch-grass, when we
again saddled up at sundown, and continued our journey, deter-
mined to go on till water should be found, or at least as long as
the animals could travel. At ten o’clock we reached a small slug-
gish stream, containing some water entirely too salt for our use,
but which the poor animals drank with great avidity, having been
without for more than twelve hours. Here we lay down for the
night, both man and beast much fatigued with the day’s march.
The country passed over to-day has been barren, desolate, and
forlorn tothe last degree. Artemisia has prevailed to the exclusion
of all other vegetation. Not the note of a bird nor the chirp of
an insect was to be heard. A solitary crow and one grasshopper
were the only living things seen during the whole day’s march.
Thursday, October 25.—Ther. at sunrise, 24°. We had an op-
portunity this morning of seeing fully the ground over which we
had passed the night previous. It consisted of an oval flat of clay
and sand, some four or five miles broad from east to west, and ex-
tending double that distance toward the north; bounded on both
sides by lofty hills, with high mountains in the background.
North of the flat the ridge was much lower, and it appeared as if
there were a pass or depression through it, leading to another valley
or plain beyond. Three streams came down from this low ridge,
and, flowing to the southward, either sank into the sand or discharged
themselves into the lake, which we now judged to be some six or
HAV LVS LVAH9 LNIOd AYOLNONOYd WOOF LSIM HLYON DNIMOOT MFIA
2
f ta
itt
i ,
NORTH END OF THE LAKE—INiAND SEA. 105
eight miles to the southward, the flat extending in that direction
to the water’s edge. Two of these streams (all of which were salt)
we crossed without much difficulty ; but the third, on the western
side of the flat, was impassable, and we had to ascend it for three
miles before we could obtain a crossing. On the west side of this
latter branch comes in a small tributary, in the bed of which, near
its source, a beautiful spring, ten feet wide, bubbles up from the
bottom, with a column of water rising in its centre six inches in
diameter. The water was clear as crystal, but salt and sulphurous,
which latter quality might account for the numerous tracks of the
antelope around its margin, as that animal is known to delight in
‘waters of this character. ;
This extensive flat appears to have formed, at one time, the
northern portion of the lake, for it is now but slightly above its
present level.. Upon the slope of a ridge connected with this
plain, thirteen distinct successive benches, or water-marks, were
counted, which had evidently, at one time, been washed by the
lake, and must have been the result of its action continued for
some time at each level. The highest of these is now about two hun-
dred feet above the valley, which has itself been left by the lake,
owing probably to gradual elevation occasioned by subterraneous
causes. If this supposition be correct, and all appearances conspire
to support it, there must have been here at some former period
a vast znland sea, extending for hundreds of miles; and the isolated
mountains which now tower from the flats, forming its western
and south-western shores, were doubtless huge islands, similar to
those which now rise from the diminished waters of the lake.
In passing over this mud-plain, the glare from the oozy sub-
stance of which it is composed was extremely painful to the eyes.
Leaving it behind us, we ascended a ridge to the west of it, two
or three miles broad, passing over some remains of shales and
altered limestone with conglomerate, the crest being composed of
porous trap, underlying the sedementary rocks, and cropping out
to the west. It may be remarked here, that the general direction
of all the ridges noticed in this region is north and south, and
they terminate most frequently in sharp, bold promontories, to the
south. A herd of antelope was seen on this ridge, numbering
about a hundred, but too wild to be approached.
Descending its western slope, we came into another plain, some-
what similar to the last in form, but much more extensive in all di-
rections, and densely covered with artemisia. Over this desolate,
. 106 NIGHT MARCH—BIVOUAC.
barren waste, we travelled until nearly dark, when we reached @
rocky promontory, constituting the southern point of a lew ridge of
hills jutting into the plain from the north. The rock was porous trap,
in which no stratification could be made out. The mules having been
without water or grass the whole day, and our stock of the former
being insufficient to give them even their stinted allowance of one
poor pint, we halted for a couple of hours, and drove them upon the
side of the mountain to pick what they could get from the scanty
supply of dry bunch-grass that grew im tufts upon its side. The
prospect of water now began to be rather gloomy; and I was
obliged to put the party upon allowance, lest we should be left
entirely destitute. At eight o’clock we replaced the packs upon —
our mules, all of which began to show the effects of their unusual
abstinence, and rode on till near midnight by the light of the
moon, in a south-westerly direction, over a country similar to that
we had traversed during the day ; when, finding the indications of
water growing less and less promising, and that our animals were
nearly worn out, we halted, and, covered with our blankets, we
lay down on the ground till morning, regardless of a heavy shower
that fell during the night. |
Friday, October 26.—The poor animals presented this morning
a forlorn appearance, having been now without a drop of water
for more than twenty-four hours, during eighteen of which they
had been under the saddle, with scarcely any thing toeat. 1 now
began to feel somewhat anxious. Should our mules give out before
we could reach the mountains west of us, to which I had deter-
mined to direct our course as speedily as possible, we must all
perish in the wilderness. Sweeping the horizon with a telescope,
I thought I discovered something that looked like willows to the
north-west, distant about four or five miles. Reanimated by this
gleam of hope, we saddled up quickly and turned our steps in
that direction. We soon had the lively satisfaction of finding our
expectations confirmed; for, arriving at the spot, we found, after
some search, a small spring welling out from the bottom of a little
ravine, which having with some labour been cleaned out, we soon
enjoyed a plentiful, most needed, and most welcome supply of
excellent water for all. |
The whole party being much exhausted from their long absti-
nence and unceasing exertions, we halted here for the day, to
afford opportunity for our animals to recruit their wasted strength
upon the plentiful supply of grass which grew all around us.
IRON ORE—ANCIENT LAKE SHORE. 107
Old decayed wigwams, constructed of willows, indicated that this
spot had long been a favourite place of resort for the Indians, for the
same reason, doubtless, which rendered it so welcome to ourselves.
On the summit of a ridge south-west of our halting-place, large
masses of magnetic iron ore were discovered, some of which were
partially encased in basaltic rock. In the ravine whence the spring
broke out, were found pebbles of alabaster, obsidian, and other
_ rocks, apparently the result of the disintegration of beds of con-
glomerate, none of which, however, was seen in place.
Saturday, October 27.—Ther. at sunrise, 85°. Resuming our
journey, we took a course south by east, which led us past the
ridge upon which we had halted two nights before. The forma-
tion was porous trap, and the direction of the ridge north by west
and south by east. We then passed along the base of a range of
low hills, composed apparently of trap and basalt. After travel-
ling ten miles, we came to a’ range of higher hills extending north-
west and south-east. Here the dark limestone was again observed,
but the stratification could not be ascertained. We then passed,
in a southerly direction, through deep sand, along what at one
time had been the beach of the lake, as. drift-wood was frequently
seen lying on the sands that stretch out to the eastward for many
miles. In one instance a drifted cotton-wood log was seen, lying
near what had evidently been the water-line of the lake, as thick
as the body of a man. On-our right was a high ridge or promon-
tory, with a narrow bottom sloping down to the edge of the flat.
The soil here was not so clayey as heretofore, beg composed in
many places of calcareous: sand and decomposed conglomerate.
Some masses of the latter were seen, resembling exactly that met
with on the eastern side of the promontory range putting out into
the lake. The country to-day has been similar to that passed over
previously—dry, barren, and entirely destitute of water. We dug
a well some five feet deep on the edge of the flat, which soon filled
with water. The mules crowded around the hole, and seemed to
watch the process of our labour, as if sensible of the object of our
exertions, but upon tasting the water, refused to drink, although
they had been travelling the whole day without a drop. Day’s
march, about sixteen miles.
Sunday, October 28.—Our little stock of water had become so
reduced that we were compelled to forego our coffee this morning,
and the most rigid economy in the use of the former was strictly
enforced. We were on the road very early, and followed for seve-
108 SUFFERING FOR WATER—DESERT PLAINS.
ral miles, down the edge of the sand at the foot of the range of hills
on our right, when we ascended it, taking a course south-west by
west, and passing over beds of conglomerate, which presented a
stratification almost horizontal. The ridge was about five miles
wide, stretching off to the southward, and about five hundred feet
above the level of the beach. ‘The soil consisted of decomposed
conglomerate, and was much cut up by deep ravines. On the west
side, volcanic rock was again met with.
Leaving the ridge, we entered upon a plain or sort of bay,
partly covered with artemisia, and partly (to the westward) with
mud and salt. It appeared to be bounded on the west, about
thirty miles distant, by a high mountain-range, extending far to the
northward, upon an eastern spur of which I judged we had encamped
on Friday. The plain contained several island mountains, rising
from it as from the water. To one of these, distant about twelve
miles south-west by west, we directed *our course and reached it —
about an hour before sunset. Here we stopped for a short time to
prepare our scanty supper, and to give the mules a chance to pick
a little grass, which was scarce and dried up. Nota drop of water
had we met with the whole day ; but at noon [ had ordered a pint to
be served out to each animal. Before arriving at this spot, one of
the poor creatures “gave out,” and we thought we should have to
leave him to the wolves, but he afterward partially recovered, and
another pint of water being given him, he went on. The rocky
island, at the north end of which we halted, extended many miles
to the southward, and was apparently surrounded on all sides by
the mud-plain. One of the party ascended it, but could see nothing
of the lake, nor any appearance of water in any direction. The
rocks were formed of altered clayey and sandy shales, and strata
of conglomerate, all of which had been much contorted, but evi-
dently at different periods, as they were not conformable.
It now became a matter of serious importance to find water for the
mules, as they had been without for nearly forty hours, most of the
time under the saddle, and almost without food. Nothing, therefore,
remained but to go on as far as possible during the night, so as to
reach the western ridge bounding this basin as early the following day
as practicable. We accordingly saddled up about dark and proceed-
ed on the same course, directing our steps toward another island in
the plain, which appeared to be about fifteen miles distant. Thenight © °
was quite cold,and the moon shone as bright as day. Our course
lay over a flat of damp clay and salt mud, in many places soft and
Te q .
Te ee es
PERILOUS POSITION—ANCIENT CRATER. 109
‘deep, which made the travelling slow and laborious. All trace of
vegetation had vanished, and even the unfailing artemisia had dis-
appeared. ‘The animals were so tired and weak that the whole
party was on foot, driving our herd before us. The mule which
had given out in the afternoon was now unable to proceed, and
had to be abandoned in the midst of the plain, where it no doubt
perished. Many others showed symptoms of extreme exhaustion,
so that their packs had to be shifted and lightened repeatedly. I
began to entertain serious fears that I should not be able to reach
the mountain with them; nor was I certain that when we did reach
‘it we should be able to find water in time to save their lives. The
night was consequently passed in a state of great anxiety. We
continued on until after midnight, crossing occasionally some little
drains of salt water coming from the north, when we reached a
small isolated butte, which was only a pile of barren rocks, with
‘scarce a blade of grass upon it. Wood or water there was none; so,
although the night was quite cold, we laid ourselves down, fireless and
supperless, upon the sand, wearied to exhaustion by a continuous
march of eighteen hours. The only sign of vegetable life to be
seen here was a small chenopodeaceous plant, without leaves, but
having long prickles. The artemisia had entirely disappeared.
On each side of us, to the north and the souta, was a rocky island
or butte, similar in character to the one near which we had halted,
but much larger.
Monday, October 29.—On abil early, we found the mules
gathered around us, looking very dejected and miserable. They
had searched in vain for food, and were now in nearly a starving
condition. Before us, indeed, lay the mountain where we hoped
to find both food and water for them, but between lay a mud-
plain fifteen or twenty miles in extent, which must be crossed be-
fore we could reach it. I was much afraid the animals were too
weak to succeed in the attempt, but it was our only hope. We
set out, the whole party on foot, pursuing the same general course
of south-west by west that we had followed yesterday.
_ The island, at the foot of which we had slept last night, presented
sections of sandstones and shales, which appeared to be of com-
paratively recent origin. They iad evidently been somewhat
altered by heat, but not to any great extent. At the north-east
point of the island on our left, the strata were inclined at an angle
of 70° to north-east. No fossils were found in them. Near the
western side of this rocky protrusion, I observed what appeared
110 FIELD OF SALT—WELCOME RELIEF.
to have been an ancient crater, forming three-fourths of an inverted
cone, open to the north-west, around which were sections of shales
and sandstones, very much contorted, and dipping in opposite
directions on opposite sides. ‘The lower part of the cone was
filled with claystone. No volcanic rocks were found at the point
where we crossed these islands, but decomposed conglomerate and
alabaster occurred in considerable quantities.
The first part of the plain consisted simply of dried mud, with
small crystals of salt scattered thickly over the surface. Crossing
this, we came upon another portion of it, three miles in width, where
the ground was entirely covered with a thin layer of salt ina state of
deliquesencce, and of so soft a consistence that the feet of our mules
sank at every step into the mud beneath. But we soon came upon a
portion of the plain where the salt lay in a solid state, in one un-
broken sheet, extending apparently to its western border. So
firm and strong was this unique and snowy floor, that it sustamed
the weight of our entire train, without in the least giving way or
cracking beneath the pressure. Our mules walked upon it as upon
a sheet of solid ice. The whole field was crossed by a network
of little ridges, projecting about half an inch, as if the salt had
expanded in the process of crystallization. I estimated this field
to be at least seven miles wide and ten miles in length. How much
farther it extended northward I could not tell; but if it covered the
plain in that direction as it did where we crossed, its extent must
have been very much‘greater. The salt, which was very pure and
white, averaged from one-half to three-fourths of an inch in thick-
ness, and was equal in all respects to our finest specimens for
table use. Assuming these data, the quantity that here lay upon
the ground in one body, exclusive of that in a deliquescent state,
amounted to over four and a-half millions of cubic yards, or about
one hundred millions of bushels. ‘
At two o’clock in the afternoon we reached the western edge
of the plain, when to our infinite joy we beheld a small prairie
or meadow, covered with a profusion of good green grass, through
which meandered a small stream of pure fresh running water,
among clumps of willows and wild roses, artemisia and rushes.
It was a most timely and welcome relief to our poor famished
animals, who had now been deprived of almost all sustenance
for more than sixty hours, during the greater part of which
time they had been in constant motion. It was, indeed, nearly
as great a relief to me as to them, for I had been doubtful
PILOT PEAK—INDIAN CEDAR LODGES. 111
whether even the best mule we had could have gone more than
half a dozen miles farther. Several of them had given out in
crossing the last plain, and we had to leave them and the baggage
behind, and to return for it afterward. Another day without
water and the whole train must have inevitably perished. Both
man and beast being completely exhausted, I remained here three
days for refreshment and rest. Moreover, we were now to prepare
for crossing another desert of seventy miles, which, as my guide in-
formed me, still lay between us and the southern end of the lake,
He had passed over it im 1845, with Frémont, who had lost ten |
mules and several horses in effecting the passage, having afterward
encamped on the same ground now occupied by our little party.
During our stay here, it rammed almost every day and night.
_ The salt plain, which before had glistened in the sunlight like a
sheet of molten silver, now became black and sombre; the salt,
over which we had passed with so much ease, dissolved, and the
flat, in places, became almost impassable. We had encamped at
the eastern base of a range of high mountains, stretching a great
distance to the north, and terminated, three miles below, in an ab-
rupt escarpment, called Pilot Peak: upon the lofty summit of which
rested a dark cloud during the whole of our stay. For three miles
from the base the ascent is gradual, the surface being covered with
gravel and boulders of granite, feldspathic rock, and metamorphic
sandstones, all evidently waterworn. Higher up the mountain,
the only stratified rocks seen were micaceous schists and slaty
shales, intersected in various directions by veins of quartz, and
very much displaced. The general dip was north by east from
70° to 80°. Proceeding south a few miles along the mountain,
the same stratified rocks were again noticed, evidently much al-
tered by heat, being interspersed with veins of granite and quartz.
Dwarf cedar was growing here, and, higher up the mountain, dwarf
pine; in the bottom, white and red willow, and Hquisetwm.
In a nook of the mountain, some Indian lodges wereseen, which had
apparently been finished but a short time. They were constructed
in the usual conical form, of cedar poles and logs of a considerable
size, thatched with bark and branches, and were quite warm and
comfortable. The odour of the cedar was sweet and refreshing.
These lodges had been put up, no doubt, by the Shoshonee Indians
for their permanent winter-quarters, but had not yet been occu-
pied. The savages had been in the neighbourhood to collect the
nuts of the pine-tree, called here pifion, for food, but what they
-_
112 STOLEN MULE—HASTINGS’S CUT-OFF. |
left had been destroyed by insects. While at this camp, one of
our best mules, was stolen. A couple of men, whom I had sent
back across the plain to search for a revolver that had been lost
in our last night march, reported, on their return to the camp, that
they had discovered the tracks of two Indians on our trail, and
had seen their fires in the mountains. These stealthy depredators
must have followed us at a distance and watched their opportunity
to plunder. The only wonder is that they did not steal more than
a single mule; for the country was so utterly desolate, that we
never once thought that any human being would ever be found
where we had passed, except from absolute necessity, and conse-
quently the vigilance of our night-guard was relaxed. Snow fell
the night before we left this camp, and covered the ridge about
halfway down from its summit.
Friday, November 2.—Ther. at sunrise, 19°. As we were aware
that immediately before us lay another desert plain, without wood,
water, or grass, for seventy miles, some little preparation was ne-
cessary before undertaking to cross it. This consisted simply in
baking bread and cooking meat enough to last us through, and in
packing upon our mules as much grass as they could carry, which
we had cut, a handful at a time, with our hunting-knives. We had
only vessels sufficient to carry twenty gallons of water—a small
supply for so many men and animals. The mules, however, were
now much recruited by their rest, and we started in good spirits.
Following the western edge of the mud-plain at the foot of the
range for three miles, we came to the southern point of the moun-
tain, where there had been an encampment of emigrants, who had
taken this route from Salt Lake City in 1848. There were here
several large springs of excellent water, and the encampment had
apparently been quite a large one. The usual destruction of pro-
perty had taken place. Clothes, books, cases of medicine, wagon-
wheels, tools, &., lay strewn about, abandoned by their owners,
who had laboriously brought them two thousand miles only to
throw them away.
The route from the Salt Lake to this point was first taken by’
Colonel Frémont, in 1845. A year afterward, it was followed by
a party of emigrants under a Mr. Hastings, whence its present
name of « Hastings’s Cut-off.” A portion of his company, which
had followed at some distance behind him, becoming belated in
crossing the Sierra Nevada Mountains, a number of them pe-
rished, and the remainder were reduced to the revolting necessity
Pit - ‘ :
a a
THE SEVENTY-MILE DESERT. 113
of living upon the bodies of their dead comrades, until they were
rescued by relief from Sutter’s Fort.
The road to California from this point follows around the south-
ern end of the ridge, passes to the north of another high moun-
tain, and thence on to the head of Humboldt’s or Mary’s River.
Leaving the springs, we crossed, once more, though in an oppo-
site direction, the same mud-plain over which we had been obliged
to pass in order to reach the mountain. It was twelve miles in
width; and now, in consequence of the recent rains, was soft and
slippery—all the salt having disappeared, except a few crystals
left in some old wagon-tracks. The travelling was in consequence
heavy and laborious. After crossing, we passed, by a gentle as-
cent, over a neck of land which connected the high ridge on our
left, at the north end of which we had bivouacked on the 29th,
with another and broader one to the south, and which latter turned
off considerably to the south-west. Here we halted for a short
time, to give our mules their last chance to pick a little bunch-
grass which grew in thin scattered tufts on the mountain-side.
The strata, at this point, were very much contorted, as at the
northern end of the same protruded ridge, inclining in all direc-
tions. The higher hills were composed of dark limestone, traversed
in various directions by veins of white marble, some of which were
of considerable thickness. The dip was to the north-west, 65°.
Over the limestone were beds of conglomerate, not conformable ;
the lower layers of which, or those in immediate contact with the
limestone, consisted of portions of the rock that had not been
waterworn. Lower down, near the base of the hill, was found a
coarse, imperfect oolitic limestone, dipping about 50° to north-west,
and under these some sandstone, not conformable, and imperfect.
After halting an hour, we pursued our journey along the east-
ern base of this isolated mountain or butte, where the dark lime-
stone was again seen, with gypsum, conformable and at right
angles with the strata. Some six miles farther on, we passed
another isolated butte, upheaved through the level mud-plain, con-
taining what appeared to be another crater, analogous to that seen
on the northern end of the ridge, open to the eastward, with the
strata dipping in every direction. The main butte appeared to be,
at this end, about ten miles wide from east to west, and had mani-
festly been very much disturbed. |
From this point we travelled on until past midnight, over a
level mud-plain, lighted by the rays of the moon, which struggled
8
114 SEVENTY-MILE DESERT—EMIGRANT CACHE.
through a mass of dark and threatening clouds. The wind was
fresh and cold, and the mud soft and tenacious, making the tra-
velling very slow and fatiguing. During the night, we passed five
wagons and one cart, which had stuck fast in the mud, and been
necessarily left by their owners, who, from appearances, had aban-
doned every thing, fearful of perishing themselves in this inhos-
pitable desert. Great quantities of excellent clothing, tool-chests,
trunks, scientific books, and, in fact, almost every thing, both use-
less and necessary on a journey of this kind, had been here left
strewn over the plain. Many articles had not even been removed
from the wagons. ‘The carcasses of several oxen lying about on
the ground satisfactorily explained the whole matter. In attempt-
ing to cross the plain, the animals had died from exhaustion and
want of water, and the wagons and their contents had of course
to be abandoned.
About one o’clock in the morning, we halted in the midst of
the plain, enticed by the sight of a broken ox-yoke, the remains
of a barrel, and part of an old wagon-bed, which served for
fuel sufficient to boil a little coffee, of which all hands stood
very much in need. The mud was ankle-deep; and the only
place upon which we could spread down a blanket to sleep was
around some scattering bushes of artemisia, where the wind had
collected a little sand, presenting a spot rather higher and not so
wet as the mud-flat around. ‘The whole scene was as barren,
dreary, and desolate as could be well imagined. We gave the
mules a portion of the grass that had been packed upon them in
the morning, and two pint-cups of water each—the only liquid
they had tasted during the day. We then fastened them up as
well as we could to the artemisia-bushes, and, wrapping ourselves
in our blankets, lay down to wait for the morning. The night was
windy and quite cold, and the poor mules kept up such a pitiful and
mournful cry, that we were but little recruited by our night’s rest.
It may well be supposed that there were few attractions to de-
tain us long on this spot. We had exhausted our fuel last night,
and there was nothing with which to cook breakfast ; so we started
quite early without any, pursuing the same general course through
the heavy mud. The wind, uninterrupted by any obstacle, blew hard
over the level plain; and although the thermometer stood at only
47°, yet it was very cold, and brought into requisition all appliances
for preventing the escape of animal heat. In the course of the
morning, we passed a spot where some emigrants had made a large
SEVENTY-MILE DESERT. 115
“cache” of such things as they could not carry. But it had been
constructed in such a bungling manner, that it had easily been dis-
covered and robbed: twelve ox-yokes remained in a heap on the
_ ground. After travelling until noon, we came to a low ridge of .
hills running nearly north and south. We sheltered ourselves be-
hind it, and finding plenty of artemisia, kindled a fire, and boiled
our coffee, which, with a piece of bread and cold bacon, constituted
our first and only meal for the day.
Our poor animals looked wretchedly, and two of them giving out
before reaching the ridge, were with great difficulty driven up. As
they had been without water for twenty-four hours, except the
cupful which had been served out to them last night, after filling a
few canteens for our own use, the remainder of our little stock was
divided among them.
The ridge was composed of porous trap. The hills were higher
toward the north, where they were connected with a range which
seemed to form a spur from the mountains east of us. They gradu-
ally diminished to the south, not extending more than a mile or
two in that direction.
Before us, distant about twelve miles, was a high mountain-range,
on the eastern side of which, the guide informed me, there was a
spring with plenty of water. I had hoped to be able to cross it to-
day, but the state of our animals was such that it proved impractica-
ble, since it was dark before we reached its western base. I the less
regretted this, as in the course of the afternoon we had found
several little pools of rain-water, from which the mules drank with
great avidity and to repletion. The ascent to the range was gen-
tle, and we encamped at the mouth of a narrow, winding pass
through it, amid plenty of large cedar-trees and very large arte-
misia—a welcome sight, as the day had been cold and blustering,
and there was every prospect ofa heavy storm. Large fires were soon
blazing, and every one was tired enough at once to seek his blanket,
without going to the trouble of preparing the evening meal. Indeed,
there was little or nothing to prepare; our bread was all gone,
and there was not water enough either to make bread or coffee, and
none could be sought for in the dark. The two mules that had
failed in the morning, again gave out before reaching the moun-
tain, and had finally to be abandoned. .
_ Sunday, November 4.—Ther. 33°. Upon rising we found it
snowing hard, and the ground covered to the depth of two inches.
Tt soon ceased, however, and before night had melted in the plain,
116 if SPRING VALLEY RANGE.
although the neighbouring mountains continued all whitened by it.
After much search, water was found in a deep ravine near by; and
grass was tolerably abundant, though dry and hard. As the mules
were nearly exhausted and much stiffened by their journey across
the deep mud-plains, I determined to remain here for the day, to
recruit them. A couple of men were sent back afoot, to try and
recover those left yesterday: they returned, after dark, bringing
with them one only; the other had strayed from the road, and all
efforts to recover it were vain. It was the third lost on this trip.
A deep ravine at the foot of the mountain presented sections
of the strata. The lowest exposed was dark limestone with white
veins, inclined to the south-east, at an angle of 85°; in fact, almost
vertical. Ascending the ravine, the limestone was found to be
overlaid by red sandstone, and this again by clayey shales. All
these rocks had been altered by heat. No organic remains were
found in the sandstones ‘or shales, but some corals were seen in the
limestone. The rocks were all veined with white marble. Large
crystalline nodules of this substance were found, which assumed
the form of arragonite. Some specimens of iron ore were also
found, apparently a carbonate, but not in place. Ther. at noon,
37°; sunset, 31°.
Monday, November 5.—Ther. 23°. Morning clear and quite
cold. Crossed the mountain through the pass. The snow was about
two inches deep and the ground frozen hard. Fcllowed down the
eastern slope for about two miles, when we came to a spring-branch
issuing from a gorge of the mountains where there was plenty of
green grass—the first full supply our animals had enjoyed for
several days.
The only rocks observed in crossing the mountain were lime-
stones, containing remains of encrinites and corals. A wide dike
of trap formed the crest; and, on the eastern side, another dike
was seen running north by east, and south by west, forming the
summit of a lower ridge. The limestones were tilted up almost
vertically, but as the surface of the ground was covered with snow,
the nature of the strata and their direction could not be very ac-
curately ascertained. A piece of altered coal was found at the
eastern base of the mountain, but not in place. The lower hills
were covered with conglomerate not conformable.
Leaving the spring, our true course lay about east, to strike the
southern point of another range ten miles distant, Ge forming the
eastern boundary of a broad, green, intervening valley, Ga ex-
SPRING VALLEY. 117
tended northward to the southern shore of the Great Salt Lake,
and was covered with grass, the first we had seen since leaving Pilot
Peak. It was shut in toward the south by a range of comparatively
low hills, connecting the two mountain ranges that formed its
eastern and western boundaries. A direct course could not be
taken for this point, owing to numerous springs, which rendered
the valley in that direction marshy and wholly impassable. We
were consequently forced many miles to the southward, and obliged
to make a circuit of more than a semicircle to gain the opposite
side. We followed down the western base of the mountain for two
or three miles, passing a fine spring, with good grass, near which we
encamped for the night, among some dwarf cedars, that both fur-
nished us with fuel and afforded a protection against the wind,
which blew fresh and cold from the north-west. Ther. at sunset, 43°.
Tuesday, November 6.—Ther. at sunrise, 30°. Continued our
journey in a northerly direction, along the western base of the
mountain, for twelve miles, when we reached its northern ex-
tremity, which was about a mile and a-half wide, and terminated
in bold escarpments five or six hundred feet high. One of these
resembled, in a remarkable manner, a huge castle, the vertical walls
of which were not less than three hundred feet in height.
Before reaching this point of the mountains, I remarked, on our
left, in the middle of the valley, a curious, isolated mass of rocks,
resembling a small fortification or redoubt: it was surrounded by ~
marshy meadow-land, and could, in case of need, be defended by a
small force against almost any number of Indians. Numerous
springs broke out from the mountain and at the edge of the prairie;
but they were all saline, with a temperature of 74°, and totally
unfit to drink. To this place we gave the name of «Spring Val-
ley.” Near the point of the mountain was a very large spring,
which discharged its waters northward into the lake. The water
was very salt, nauseous, and bitter, with a temperature of 70°;
notwithstanding which it swarmed with innumerable small fish, and
seemed to be a favourite resort for pelicans and gulls.
In a shallow ravine near our morning camp, limestone was found
cropping out, with a dip of 80° to the north-west. This rock was
seen as we followed the range, appearing at the spurs; and dikes of
trap were observed, forming peaks farther back up the mountain-
side. The ridge gradually became less elevated as we proceeded
toward the point, where the stratified rocks (limestone and shales)
were found in a horizontal position. Along the northern termina-
118 TUILLA VALLEY. :
tion of the range, the strata were again found to be much dis-
placed and almost vertical. They were composed of limestone
and shales, overlaid in some places by conglomerate. Salt springs
were very numerous in this locality.
After doubling the point, we came upon another valley, similar
to the one through which we had just passed, and from which it was
divided by the ridge or mountain just described. Our true course
here, also, was to cross this valley in an easterly direction, and
strike the northern point of another range where it terminates im-
mediately on the southern shore of the Salt Lake, now plainly
visible; but the numerous salt springs, as in the case of that
passed yesterday, rendered a straight course impracticable. Con-
sequently, after following the eastern base of the ridge about
six miles to the south, we began gradually to diverge from it to the
eastward, and at dark encamped in the prairie, near a noble spring
of fresh, cold water, with abundance of excellent grass, and an ex-
tensive grove of large willows for fuel. A fierce gale sprang up
from the south-east, which kept us in a constant state of alarm
during the night, lest we should be burned in our beds from the
tall dry grass taking fire. It had in fact kindled several times,
and the flame was extinguished with some difficulty, rendering a
strict watch necessary until morning. ‘This valley is called « Tuilla
Valley’ by the Mormons, and forms an excellent pasturage for
numerous herds of cattle, wintered here by them under the charge
of keepers. The grass is very abundant, and numerous springs are
found on both sides of it. |
On the eastern side of the mountain, which divides it from
Spring Valley, the same geological appearances occur as were seen
yesterday at the point of the range and on its western side. The
limestones were thrown up at avery great angle, and in some
places the strata were perpendicular.
Another mule gave out to-day, and was necessarily abandoned.
Ther. at sunset, 43°.
Wednesday, November T.—Ther. at sunrise, 47°. Starting
early in the morning, we crossed to the eastern side of the valley,
followed the base of the mountain to its northern extremity, and
reached the shores of the Great Salt Lake near Black Rock,
whence we crossed the valley of the Jordan, over sterile artemisia
plains, and reached the city in the afternoon—being the first party
of white men that ever succeeded in making the entire circuit of
the lake by land. Attempts had, in early times, been made to
Caen: Ae “t PT i es
Ce ee -
re i> ee
ihe
_
aS
ae
RESULTS OF THE RECONNOISSANCE. 119
circumnavigate it in canoes, by some trappers in search of beaver ;
but they all proved unsuccessful, from want of fresh water.
The examination just completed proves that the whole western
shore of the lake is bounded by an immense level plain, consist-
ing of soft mud, frequently traversed by small, meandering rills
of salt and sulphurous water, with occasional springs of fresh, all
of which sink before reaching the lake. These streams seem to
imbue and saturate the whole soil, so as to render it throughout
miry and treacherous. For a few months, in midsummer, the sun
has sufficient influence to render some portions of the plain, for a
short time, dry and hard: in these intervals the travelling over it
is excellent ; but one heavy shower is sufficient to reconvert the
hardened clay into soft, tenacious mud, rendering the passage of
teams over it toilsome, and frequently quite hazardous.
These plains are but little elevated above the present level of the
_ lake, and have, beyond question, at one time formed a part of it. It
is manifest to every observer, that an elevation of but a few feet
above the present level of the lake would flood this entire flat to
a great distance north and south, and wash the base of the Pilot
Peak range of mountains, which constitute its western boundary ;
thus converting what is now a comparatively small and insignificant
lake into a vast inland sea. This extensive area is, for the most
part, entirely denuded of vegetation, excepting occasional patches
of artemisia and greasewood. The minute crystals of salt which
cover the surface of the moist, oozy mud, glisten brilliantly in the
sunlight, and present the appearance of a large sheet of water so
perfectly, that it is difficult, at times, for one to persuade himself
that he is not standing on the shore of the lake itself. High rocky
ridges protrude above the level plain, and resemble great islands
rising above the bosom of this desert sea.
The mirage, which frequently occurs, is greater here than I ever
witnessed elsewhere, distorting objects in the most grotesque man-
ner, defying all calculation as to their size, shape, or distances, and
giving rise to optical illusions almost beyond belief. With the ex-
ception of the two valleys lying at the south end of the lake, the
country is, as a place of human habitation, entirely worthless.
There is, however, one valuable use to which it may and perhaps
will be applied: its extent, and perfectly level surface, would furnish
a desirable space on which to measure a degree of the meridian.
120 SALT LAKE CITY—INDIAN TRADING PARTY.
CHAPTER VII.
TERMINATION OF THE FIELD-woRK OF 1849—A WINTER AMONG THE
MORMONS.
Upon my arrival at Salt Lake City, I found that the camp, under
Lieutenant Gunnison, wasthen about sixty miles to the southward,
upon Utah Lake. I accordingly joined him as soon as possible.
The work, during my absence, had been carried forward by that
officer with energy, industry, and judgment.
I had hoped, from the representations which had been made to me
of the mildness of the two previous winters, that we should be able
to keep the field the greater part, if not the whole of theseason; but,
in the latter part of November, the winter set in with great and un-
usual severity, accompanied by deep snows, which rendered any
farther prosecution of the work impracticable. I was therefore com-
pelled to break up my camp, and to seek for winter quarters in the
city. These were not obtained without some difficulty, as the tide of
emigration had been so great that houses were very scarce, and not
a small portion of the inhabitants, among whom was the president
himself, were forced to lodge portions of their families in wagons.
Upon terminating the field-work for the season, I despatched
three men, one of whom was my guide and interpreter, with a small —
invoice of goods, to trade for horses among the Uintah Utahs, with
directions to await my orders at Fort Bridger. Reports after-
ward reached us that a bloody fight had taken place between the
Sioux and the Yampah Utahs, which latter tribe reside in the
vicinity of the Uintahs, and great fears were entertained that the
little party had been cut off by one or the other of the contending
tribes. Such a calamity, aside from the loss of life, would have
been of serious consequence to the expedition, as the horses I ex-
pected to obtain were almost indispensable to the return of the
party to the States, the number of our animals having been much
diminished by death and robbery. .
It may as well be mentioned here, that ‘the party thus des-
patched subsequently joined me in the spring, as soon as the melt-
ing of the snows rendered communication with Fort Bridger prac-
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PROGRESS OF THE SURVEY IN 1849. 121
ticable, bringing with them a drove of twenty-five horses. They
had met with very rough usage from the Indians, having been
robbed of a number of their horses, beside the whole of what
remained of their goods, and narrowly escaped with their lives.
From the report by Lieutenant Gunnison of his operations
during my absence, I make the following synopsis.
A thorough exploration was made, with the view of ascertaining
_ the points for such a base line as would best develop a system of
triangles embracing both the Salt Lake and Utah valleys.
A line was selected, and carefully measured by rods constructed
for the purpose, and tripod stations erected over the termini,
which were marked by metal points set in wooden posts sunk
flush with the surface of the ground. The length of the base is
thirty-one thousand six hundred and eighty feet.
Fourteen principal triangulation stations were erected, consisting
of large pyramidal timber tripods, strongly framed, to be covered,
when required for use, by cotton cloth of different colours, accord-
ing tothe background. The triangles extended to the south shore
of Utah Lake, and embraced an area of about eighty by twenty-five
miles.
A survey and sounding had been made of the Utah Lake, and
also of the river connecting it with Salt Lake: this operation re-
quiring a line to be run of one hundred and twenty-six miles,
principally by the back angle, with the theodolite.
Although such a result, from less than two months’ labour,
would be entirely satisfactory under ordinary circumstances any-
where, and would reflect credit on the energy and capacity of the
officer in charge of the work, yet it may be remarked that it would
be very unfair to judge of it by a comparison with similar results
obtained in the Eastern States. There, all the accessories to such
a work, especially water and timber, are abundant, and generally
at a convenient distance: here, on the contrary, both are very
scarce and hard to be obtained. All the water, for instance, used
both for cooking and drinking, that was consumed on the base
_ Tine, (requiring seven days of incessant labour in its measurement,)
had to be transported upon mules from the river, which lay a mile
east of its eastern terminus; and the force employed in the erection
of most of the triangulation stations had to be supplied in a like
manner. But the principal difficulty was the scarcity of timber. .
Wood grows nowhere on the plains ; all the wood used for cooking
in camp, and all the timber, both for posts on the base line and
122 WINTER IN SALT LAKE CITY.
for the construction of the stations, had to be hauled from the
mountains, in many cases fifteen or twenty miles distant, over a
rough country without roads. Almost every stick used for this
purpose cost from twenty to thirty miles’ travel of a six-mule
team. ‘This, together with the delays of getting into the caiions,
where alone the timber can be procured, cutting down the trees,
and hauling them down the gorges by hand to the nearest spots
accessible to the teams, involved an amount of time and labour
which must be experienced before it can be appreciated. All this
had to be done, however, or the prosecution of the work would
have been impracticable.
Before leaving the Salt Lake City for Fort Hall, I had engaged
the services of Albert Carrington, Esq., a member of the Mormon
community, who was to act as an assistant on the survey. He
was without experience in the use of instruments; but, being a
gentleman of liberal education, he soon acquired, under instruction,
the requisite skill, and, by his zeal, industry, and practical good
sense, materially aided us in our subsequent operations. He con-
tinued with the party until the termination of the survey, accom-
panied it to this city, and has since returned to his mountain home,
carrying with him the respect and kind wishes of all with whom
he was associated.
The winter season in the valley was long and severe. The
vicinity of so many high mountains rendered the weather ex-
tremely variable; snows fell constantly upon them, and fre-
quently to the depth of ten inches in the plains. In many of the
cafions it accumulated to the depth of fifty feet, filling up the
passes so rapidly that, in more than one instance, emigrants who
had been belated in starting from the States, were overtaken by
the storms in the mountain gorges, and forced to abandon every
thing, and escape on foot, leaving even their animals to perish in
the snows. All communication with the world beyond was thus
effectually cut off; and, as the winter advanced, the gorges became
more and more impassable, owing to the drifting of the snow into
them from the projecting peaks.
We remained thus shut up until the third of April. Our quar-
ters consisted of a small unfurnished house of unburnt brick or |
adobe, unplastered, and roofed with boards loosely nailed on,
which, every time it stormed, admitted so much water as called
into requisition all the pans and buckets in the establishment to
receive the numerous little streams which came trickling down
\
MORMON BED-ROOMS. 123
from every crack and knot-hole. During this season of compara-
tive inaction, we received from the authorities and citizens of the
community every kindness that the most warmhearted hospitality
could dictate; and no effort was spared to render us as comfort-
able as their own limited means would admit. Indeed, we were
much better lodged than many of our neighbours; for, as has been
previously observed, very many families were obliged still to lodge
wholly or in part in their wagons, which, being covered, served,
when taken off from the wheels and set upon the ground, to make
bedrooms, of limited dimensions it is true, but yet exceedingly
comfortable. Many of these were comparatively large and commo-
‘dious, and, when carpeted and furnished with a little stove, formed
an additional apartment or back building to the small cabin, with
which they frequently communicated by a door. It certainly argued
a high tone of morals and an habitual observance of good order and
decorum, to find women and children thus securely slumbering in
the midst of a large city, with no protection from midnight moles-
tation other than a wagon-cover of linen and the gis of the law.
In the very next enclosure to that occupied by our party, a whole
family of children had no other shelter than one of these wagons,
where they slept all the winter, literally out of doors, there being
no communication whatever with the inside of their parents’ house.
The founding, within the space of three years, of a large and
flourishing community, upon a spot so remote from the abodes of
man, so completely shut out by natural barriers from the rest of
the world, so entirely unconnected by watercourses with either of
the oceans that wash the shores of this continent—a country offer-
ing no advantages of inland navigation or of foreign commerce, but,
on the contrary, isolated by vast uninhabitable deserts, and only
to be reached by long, painful, and often hazardous journeys by
land—presents an anomaly so very peculiar, that it deserves more
than a passing notice. In this young and progressive country of
ours, where cities grow up in a day, and states spring into exist-
ence in a year, the successful planting of a colony, where the
natural advantages have been such as to hold out the promise of
adequate reward to the projectors, would have excited no surprise ;
but the success of an enterprise under circumstances so at variance
with all our preconceived ideas of its probability, may well be con-
sidered as one of the most remarkable incidents of the present
age.
A brief reference to the early history of this people, and to the
, 224 EARLY HISTORY OF THE MORMONS.
events and motives which led to their planting such a settlement
in the midst of a barren wilderness, may not be without interest.
The City of the Great Salt Lake, the capital of the settlement, —
was founded in 1847, by a religious community of people known
among us by the name of Mormons, but who style themselves the
« Latter-day Saints of the Church of Jesus Christ.’’ It is situated
in lat. 40° 46’ north, and long. 112° 6’ west, at the foot of the
western slope of the Wahsatch Mountains, an extensive chain of
lofty hills, forming a portion of the eastern boundary of what is
known in our geography as the « Great Basin.”
The origin of this new religious sect in our country is well
known, and therefore it will only be necessary to advert to it very
briefly. It was first organized in 1830, under the auspices of
Joseph Smith, the founder; and, after a temporary residence in
Kirtland, Ohio, was removed to Jackson county, Missouri, where
by divine revelation “the saints’ were directed to build a magnifi-
cent temple, the pattern of which was to be revealed from on high.
The corner-stone of this edifice was laid, but the builders were
eventually driven from the State by an armed mob. They next
removed to Illinois, where, upon the bank of the Mississippi,
they built a flourishing city, which they called Nauvoo. They
lived here until 1844, when they became obnoxious to the inha-
bitants of that State also, and were finally attacked by an en-
raged multitude, and their prophet, Joseph Smith, and his brother
Hyrum, murdered in the jail of Carthage. During the year 1845,
these persecutions continued; and threats of greater outrages
being held out, the Mormons found their situation no longer tole-
rable within the boundaries of that State, and at length, in a solemn
council, determined to abandon their homes in their city of
Nauvoo, and to seek, in the wilds of the Western wilderness, a spot
remote from the habitations of men, where, secure from lawless
violence, they might worship according to the rites of the new reli-
gion they had introduced.
Into the particular causes which led to the expulsion of the Mor-
mons from Missouri and Illinois it is not the province of this report
to inquire. The facts have long been before the country, and its
judgment has been passed upon them; but the results of the per-
secutions to which they were subjected have been as curious as they
were wholly unlooked-for.
The Mormons having resolved to emigrate, preparations for the
journey were immediately commenced, by hastily and at much
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EXODUS FROM ILLINOIS. 125
sacrifice exchanging such property as they could dispose of for
animals, wagons, and breadstuffs; and in the beginning of Fe-
bruary, 1846, a large proportion of the community crossed the
Mississippi from Nauvoo, and formed a rendezvous near Montrose,
in Iowa. Here they remained, exposed to intense cold and deep
snows, until March, when, being joined by several hundred wagons
and a large number of women and children, they organized their
company under the guidance of Brigham Young, president of the
church, and successor of Joseph Smith their founder and seer.
In their progress westward, through the northern part of Mis-
souri, they were again driven from that State, by violent threats,
into the southern borders of Iowa, whence, after much hardship and
suffering, they reached, in the course of the summer, the banks of
the Missouri, beyond the limits of the States. Here they enclosed
land and planted crops, leaving some of their number to reap the
fruits, which were to be applied to the sustenance of other compa-
nies, that were to follow as soon as they should be able to provide
the means. They were about crossing the river to pursue their
journey westward, when an officer of the United States Government
presented himself, with a requisition for five hundred men to serve in
the war with Mexico. This demand, though sudden and unexpected,
was promptly and patriotically complied with ; but in consequence,
the expedition was broken up for the season. Those that remained,
being principally old men, women, and children, prepared to pass
the winter in the wilds of an Indian country, by cutting hay and
erecting log and sod huts, and digging as many caves as time
allowed and their strength enabled them.
During this winter, owing to the great privations incident to
such a life, and to the want, in many instances, of the most com-
mon necessaries, great numbers sickened and died: their cattle,
too, were stolen by the Indians, or perished by starvation. :
In the succeeding spring of 1847, the people were again organized
for their journey ; and on the 8th of April, a pioneer company, con-
sisting of one hundred and forty-three men, seventy-two wagons, and
one hundred and seventy-five head of horses, mules, and oxen, with
rations for six months, agricultural implements and seed-grain,
manfully set out in search of a home beyond the Rocky Mountains.
Pursuing their route up the left bank of the Platte, crossing at
Fort Laramie, and passing over the mountains at the South Pass,
the advanced guard at length reached the valley of the Great Salt
Lake, on the 21st of July. On the 24th, the presidency and the
126 SETTLEMENT OF SALT LAKE VALLEY.
main body arrived. A piece of ground was selected, consecrated
by prayer, broken up, and planted; and thus, in 1847, was formed
the nucleus of what, in 1850, was admitted as a Territory of the
Union, and which bids fair ere long to present itself at the door of.
the national legislature for admission as one of the States of the
confederacy.
In a short time after the doctieah of the pioneer company, ground
was surveyed and laid out into streets and squares for a large
city; a fort or enclosure was erected, of houses made of logs and
sun-dried brick, opening into a large square, the entrance to which
was defended by gates, and formed a tolerably secure fortification
against Indian attacks. In October following, an addition of be-
tween three and four thousand was made to their number, by the
emigration of such as had been left behind, and the fort was neces-
sarily enlarged for their accommodation. Agricultural labours
were now resumed with renewed spirit; ploughing and planting
continued throughout the whole winter and until the July follow-
ing, by which time a line of fence had been constructed, enclosing
upward of six thousand acres of land, laid down in crops, besides
a large tract of pasture land. During the winter, and spring,
the inhabitants were much straitened for food; and game being
very scarce in the country, they were reduced to the neces-
sity of digging roots from the ground, and living upon the hides
of animals which they had previously made use of for roofing their
cabins, but which were now torn off for food. But this distress
only continued until the harvest, since which time provisions of all
kinds have been abundant.
This year, (1848,) a small grist-mill was erected, and two saw-
mills nearly completed. The following winter and spring, a settle-
ment was commenced on the banks of the Weber River, a bold, clear
stream which breaks through the Wahsatch Mountains, forty miles
north of the city, and discharges its waters into the Salt Lake.
Upon Ogden Creek, an affluent of the Weber, a city has since
(1850) been laid out, and called Ogden City, and is already sur-
rounded by a flourishing agricultural population.
In the autumn, another large immigration arrived under the
president, Brigham Young, which materially added to the strength
of the colony. Building and agriculture were prosecuted with
renewed vigour. Numerous settlements continued to be made
wherever water could be found for irrigation. A handsome coun-
cil-house was commenced, to be built of red sandstone procured
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CIVIL GOVERNMENT—-STATE OF DESERET. 127
from the neighbouring mountain, and two grist-mills and three
saw-mills, added to those already in operation. 'The winter of this
year was much more severe than the preceding one, and snow fell
on the plain to the depth of ten inches.
In the following spring (1849) a settlement was commenced, and
a small fort built near the mouth of the Timpanogas or Provaux,
an affluent of Lake Utah, about fifty miles south of the city.
During this summer, large crops of grain, melons, potatoes, and
corn were raised, and two more saw-mills erected.
The colony had now become firmly established, and all fear of
its ability to sustain itself were, from the overflowing abundance
of the harvest, set at rest. Nothing could be more natural than
that the people should turn their attention to the formation
of a system of civil government. Hitherto they had been under
the guidance of their ecclesiastical leaders only, and justice had
- been administered upon principles of equity simply, enforced by
the government of the church alone. This would answer very
well while the community remained small, and consisted only of
those who acknowledged the binding force of spiritual rule in
matters purely temporal also. But, as the colony increased, it was
not to be expected that it would continue to consist solely of mem-
bers of the church, willing to submit to such a jurisdiction, without
the sanctions of an organized civil government.
A convention was therefore called «of all the citizens of that
portion of Upper California lying east of the Sierra Nevada
mountains, to take mto consideration the propriety of organizing
a Territorial or State government.”’
The convention met at Great Salt Lake City, on the Sth of
March, 1849, and on the 10th adopted a constitution, which was to
remain in force until the Congress of the United States should
otherwise provide for the government of the territory.
It «‘ordained and established a free and independent govern-
ment, by the name of the State oF DesERET;”’ fixed the bounda-
ries of the new State; provided for the election of governor, sena-
tors, representatives, and judges: all of whom, as well as the
other officers created by it, were required to take an oath to sup-
port the constitution of the United States. On the 2d of July,
the legislature, created by the organic law, met, elected a delegate
to Congress, and adopted a memorial to that body, in which, among
other things, they state that «the inhabitants of the State of
Deseret, in view of their own security, and for the preservation of
128 CITY OF THE GREAT SALT LAKE.
the constitutional right of the United States to hold jurisdiction
there, have organized a provisional State government, under which
the civil policy of the nation is duly maintained.” «That there
is now a sufficient number of individuals residing within the State
of Deseret to support a State government.’’ They therefore asked
‘«‘that, if consistent with the constitution and usages of the Federal
Governnient, the constitution accompanying the memorial be rati-
fied, and that the State of Deseret be admitted into the Union on
an equal footing with other States’ —«or such other form of civil
government established, as Congress in its biciizne and magna-
nimity might award.”
A constitution and petition for a Territorial organization had
been previously forwarded to Congress; but in consequence of in-
formation received afterward, a memorial for a State government
was substituted in its room. Such is a brief sketch of the origin
and progress of this colony, and the condition in which we found
it upon our arrival in August, 1849.
A city had been laid out upon a magnificent scale, being nearly
four miles in length and three in breadth; the streets at right
angles with each other, eight rods or one hundred and thirty-two
feet wide, with sidewalks of twenty feet; the blocks forty rods
square, divided into eight lots, each of which contains an acre and
a-quarter of ground. By an ordinance of the city, each house is
to be placed twenty feet back from the front line of the lot, the
intervening space being designed for shrubbery and trees. The
site for the city is most beautiful: it lies at the western base of
the Wahsatch Mountains, in a curve formed by the projection
westward from the main range, of a lofty spur which forms its
southern boundary. On the west it is washed by the waters of
the Jordan, while to the southward for twenty-five miles extends
a broad level plain, watered by several little streams, which, flow-
ing down from the eastern hills, form the great element of fertility
and wealth to the community. Through the city itself flows am
unfailing stream of pure, sweet water, which, by an ingenious mode:
of irrigation, is made to traverse each side of every street, whence
it is led into every garden-spot, spreading life, verdure, and beauty
over what was heretofore a barren waste. On the east and north
the mountain descends to the plain by steps, which form broad and
elevated terraces, commanding an extended view of the whole val-
ley of the Jordan, which is bounded on the west by a range of
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CITY OF THE GREAT SALT LAKE. 129
rugged mountains, stretching far to the southward, and enclosing
within their embrace the lovely little Lake of Utah.
On the northern confines of the city, a warm spring issues from
the base of the mountain, the water of which has been conducted
by pipes into a commodious bathing-house; while, at the western
point of the same spur, about three miles distant, another spring
flows in a bold stream from beneath a perpendicular rock, with a
temperature too high to admit the insertion of the hand, (128°
Fahr.) At the base of the hill it forms a little lake, which in the
autumn and winter is covered with large flocks of waterfowl, at-
tracted by the genial temperature of the water.
Beyond the Jordan, on the west, the dry and otherwise barren
plains support a hardy grass, (called bunch-grass,) which is pecu-
liar to these regions, requiring but little moisture, very nutritious,
_ and in sufficient quantities to afford excellent pasturage to nume-
rous herds of cattle. To the northward, in the low grounds border-
ing the river, hay in abundance can be procured, although it is
rather coarse and of an inferior quality.
The facilities for beautifying this admirable site are manifold.
The irrigating canals, which flow before every door, furnish abun-
dance of water for the nourishment of shade-trees, and the open
space between each building, and the pavement before it, when
planted with shrubbery and adorned with flowers, will make this
one of the most lovely spots between the Mississippi and the Pa-
cific. One of the most unpleasant characteristics of the whole
country, after leaving the Blue River, is the entire absence of trees
from the landscape. The weary traveller plods along, exposed to
the full blaze of one eternal sunshine, day after day, and week after
week, his eye resting upon naught but interminable plains, bald
and naked hills, or bold and rugged mountains: the shady grove,
the babbling brook, the dense and solemn forest, are things un-
known here; and should he by chance light upon some solitary
cotton-wood, or pitch his tent amid some stunted willows, the op-
portunity is hailed with joy, as one of unusual good fortune. The
studding, therefore, of this beautiful city with noble trees, will
render it, by contrast with the surrounding regions, a second “ Dia-
mond of the Desert,” in whose welcome shade, like the solitary
Sir Kenneth and the princely Ilderim, the pilgrim, wayworn and
faint, may repose his jaded limbs and dream of the purling brooks
and waving woodlands he has left a thousand miles behind him.
The city was estimated to contain about eight thousand inhabit:
9
130 PROVISIONAL STATE GOVERNMENT.
ants, and was divided into numerous wards, each, at the time of
our visit, enclosed by a substantial fence, for the protection of the
young crops : as time and leisure will permit, these will be removed,
and each lot enclosed by itself, as with us. The houses are built,
principally, of adobe or sun-dried brick, which, when well covered
with a tight projecting roof, make a warm, comfortable dwelling,
presenting a very neat appearance. Buildings of a better descrip-
tion are being introduced, although slowly, owing to the difficulty of
procuring the requisite lumber, which must always be scarce and
dear in a country so destitute of timber.
Upon a square appropriated to the public buildings, an immense
shed had been erected upon posts, which was capable of containing
three thousand persons. It was called « The Bowery,” and served
as a temporary place of worship, until the construction of the Great
Temple. This latter is to surpass in grandeur of design and gor-
geousness of decoration all edifices the world has yet seen; and is to
be eclipsed only by that contemplated in Jackson county, Missouri,
—to be erected when “the fulness of time shall come,”’ and which
will constitute the head-quarters or central point, whence light,
truth, and the only true religion shall radiate to the uttermost
parts of the earth. A mint was already in operation, from which
were issued gold coins of the Federal denominations, stamped,
without assay, from the dust brought from California. |
The provisional State government, with all the machimery of
executive, legislative, and judicial functionaries, was in regular
and harmonious action, under the constitution recently adopted.
The jurisdiction of the «State of Deseret’? had been extended over
and was vigorously enforced upon all who came within its borders,
and justice was equitably administered alike to “‘saint’’ and “ gen-
tile’’—as they term all who are not of their persuasion. Of the
truth of this, as far at least as the gentiles were concerned, I soon
had convincing proof, by finding, one fine morning, some twenty of
our mules safely secured in the public pound, for trespass upon
the cornfield of some pious saint; possession was recovered only
by paying the fine imposed by the magistrate and amply remu-
nerating the owner for the damage done to his crops. Their
courts were constantly appealed to by companies of passing emi-
grants, who, having fallen out by the way, could not agree upon
the division of their property. ‘The decisions were remarkable.
for fairness and impartiality, and if not submitted to, were sternly
enforced by the whole power of the community. Appeals for
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KN ACMPROLA 648 WL] WweuLayOy
UNION OF CHURCH AND STATE. 131
protection from oppression, by those passing through their midst,
were not made in vain; and I know of at least one instance in
which the marshal of the State was despatched, with an adequate —
force, nearly two hundred miles into the western desert, in pur-
suit of some miscreants who had stolen off with nearly the whole
outfit of a party of emigrants. He pursued and brought them
back to the city, and the plundered property was restored to its
rightful owner.
While, however, there are all the exterior evidences of a govern-
ment strictly temporal, it cannot be concealed that it is so intimately
blended with the spiritual administration of the church, that it
would be impossible to separate the one from the other. The
first civil governor under the constitution of the new State, elected
by the people, was the president of the church, Brigham Young;
the lieutenant-governor was his first ecclesiastical counsellor, and
the secretary of state his second counsellor: these three indi-
viduals forming together the “ presidency” of the church. The
bishops of the several wards, who, by virtue of their office in the
church, had exercised not only a spiritual but a temporal authority
over the several districts assigned to their charge, were appointed,
under the civil organization, to be justices of the peace, and were
supported in the discharge of their duties, not only by the civil
power, but by the whole spiritual authority of the church also.
This intimate connection of church and state seems to pervade
every thing that is done. The supreme power in both being lodged
in the hands of the same individuals, it is difficult to separate their
two official characters, and to determine whether in any one in-
stance they act as spiritual or merely temporal officers. 3
The establishment of a civil government at all, seems to me to
have been altogether the result of a foreseen necessity, which it
was impossible to avoid. As the community grew in numbers and
importance, it was not to be expected, as has been before remarked,
that the whole population would always consist solely of members
of the church, looking up to the presidency, not only as its spiritual
head, but as the divinely commissioned and inspired source of law
in temporal matters and policy also. It became necessary, there-
fore, to provide for the government of the whole, by establishing
some authority which could not be disputed by any, and would
exercise a control over them as citizens, whether they were mem-
bers of the church or not; and which, being acknowledged and
recognised by the Government of the United States, would be sup-
ee
132 CIVIL AND ECCLESIASTICAL REVENUE.
ported by its laws and upheld by its authority. The civil govern-
ment, therefore, was wholly precautionary, and only for such gen-
tiles as might settle among them, the power and authority of the
church over its members being amply sufficient where they alone |
were concerned. In the organization of the civil government,
nothing could be more natural than that, the whole people being
of one faith, they should choose for functionaries to carry it into
execution, those to whom they had been in the habit of deferring
as their inspired guides, and by whom they had been led from a
land of persecution into this far-off wilderness, which, under their
lead, was already beginning to blossom like the rose. Hence
came the insensible blending of the two authorities, the principal
functionaries of the one holding the same relative positions under
the other. Thus the bishop, in case of a dispute between two
members of the church, would interpose his spiritual authority as
bishop for its adjustment, while in differences between those not sub-
ject to the spiritual jurisdiction, and who could not be made ame-
nable to church discipline, he would act in the magisterial capacity
conferred upon him by the constitution and civil laws of the State.
Thus the control of the affairs of the colony remained in the
same hands, whether under church or state organization; and these
hands were, in a double capacity, those into which the constituents
had, whether as citizens or as church-members, themselves chosen
to confide it.
The revenue of the new State seemed to partake of the same
double character ; the treasures of the church being freely devoted,
when necessary, to the promotion of the temporal prosperity of the
body politic. These are derived from a system of tithing, similar
to that of the ancient Israelites. Hach person, upon profession of
his faith, and consequent reception into the bosom of the church,
is required to pay into “the treasury of the Lord” one-tenth of
all that he possesses; after which, he pays a tenth of the yearly
increase of his goods; and in addition contributes one-tenth of his
time, which is devoted to labour on the public works, such as roads,
bridges, irrigating canals, or such other objects as the authorities
may direct. The whole amount thus collected goes into the coffers
of the church, and is exacted only from its members. A tax is
also laid upon property as with us, which is levied upon all, both
‘saint’ and gentile, and which constitutes the revenue of the civil
government. All goods brought into the city, pay as the price of
« license, a duty of one per cent., except spirituous liquors, for
TAXES—PROSPRRITY OF THE COLONY. 1338
which one-half of the price at which they are sold is demanded:
the object of this last impost being avowedly to discourage the in-
troduction of that article among them. It has, indeed, operated
to a great extent as a prohibition, the importer, to save himself
from loss, having to double the price at which he could otherwise
have afforded to sell. The result of this policy was, when we were
there, to bring up the price of brandy to twelve dollars per gallon,
of which the authorities took six; and of whisky to eight dollars, _
of which they collected four dollars. The circulating medium is
principally gold of their own coinage, and such foreign gold as is
brought in by converts from Europe.
Notwithstanding this heavy, and as it would be to us, insupport-
able burden upon industry and enterprise, nothing can exceed the
appearance of prosperity, peaceful harmony, and cheerful content-
ment that pervaded the whole community. Ever since the first
year of privation, provisions have been abundant, and want of the
necessaries and even comforts of life is a thing unknown. A de-
sign was at one time entertained (more, I believe, as a prospective
measure than any thing else) to set apart a fund for the purpose
of erecting a poorhouse; but after strict inquiry, it was found that
there were in the whole population but two persons who could be
considered as objects of public charity, and the plan was conse-
quently abandoned.
This happy external state, of universally diffused prosperity, is
commented on by themselves, as an evidence of the smiles of Hea-
ven and of the special favour of the Deity: but I think it may be
most clearly accounted for in the admirable discipline and ready
obedience of a large body of industrious and intelligent men, and
in the wise councils of prudent and sagacious leaders, producing a
oneness and concentration of action, the result of which has asto-
nished even those by whom it has been effected. The happy
consequences of this system of united and well-directed action,
under one leading and controlling mind, is most prominently ap-
parent in the erection of public buildings, opening of roads, the
construction of bridges, and the preparation of the country for the
speedy occupation of a large and rapidly growmg population,
shortly to be still further augmented by an immigration even now
on their way, from almost every country in Kurope.
Upon the personal character of the leader of this singular people,
it may not, perhaps, be proper for me to comment in a communica-
tion like the present. I may nevertheless be pardoned for saying,
134 BRIGHAM YOUNG——-TREATMENT OF EMIGRANTS.
that to me, President Young appeared to be a man of clear, sound
sense, fully alive to the responsibilities of the station he occupies,
sincerely devoted to the good name and interests of the people over
which he presides, sensitively jealous of the least attempt to under-
value or misrepresent them, and indefatigable in devising ways and
means for their moral, mental, and physical elevation. He ap-
peared to possess the unlimited personal and official confidence of
his people ; while both he and his two counsellors, forming the pre-
sidency of the church, seemed to have but one object in view,
the prosperity and peace of the society over which they pre-
sided. |
In their dealings with the crowds of emigrants that passed
through their city, the Mormons were ever fair and upright, taking
no advantage of the necessitous condition of many, if not most of
them. They sold them such provisions as they could spare, at
moderate prices, and such as they themselves paid in their dealings
with each other. In_the whole of our intercourse with them,
which lasted rather more than:a year, I cannot refer to a single
instance of fraud or extortion to which any of the party was sub-
jected; and I strongly incline to the opinion that the charges that
have been preferred against them in this respect, arose either
from interested misrepresentation or erroneous information. I
certainly never experienced any thing like it in my own case, nor
did I witness or hear of any instance of it in the case of others,
while I resided among them. ‘Too many that passed through their
settlement were disposed to disregard their claim to the land they
occupied, to ridicule the municipal regulations of their city, and to
trespass wantonly upon their rights. Such offenders were promptly
arrested by the authorities, made to pay a severe fine, and in some
instances were imprisoned or made to labour on the public works;
a punishment richly merited, and which would have been inflicted
upon them in any civilized community. In short, these people
presented the appearance of a quiet, orderly, industrious, and
well-organized society, as much so as one would meet with in any
city of the Union, having the rights of personal property as per-
fectly defined and as religiously respected as with ourselves;
nothing being farther from their faith or practice than the spirit
of communism, which has been most erroneously supposed to pre-
vail among them. The main peculiarity of the people consists in
their religious tenets, the form and extent of their church govern-
JOSEPH SMITH—BOOK OF MORMON. 138
ment, (which is a theocracy,) and in the nature especially of their
domestic relations.
With regard to the first of these, it is not my design to give
more than a brief outline, referring the theological student to a
treatise on this subject, about, as I understand, to be published by
Lieutenant Gunnison, who was attached to the party, and who has
paid especial attention to this subject.
The claim of the Mormons is, that they constitute the only true
church now upon the earth, that all other denominations of Chris-
tians, so called, are out of the true path to heaven, which can only be
attained through the administration of the ordinances of their
church, by the «« Melchisedec priesthood.” This, they assert, was re-
moved from the earth some eighteen hundred years ago, since which
period, as they insist, no true church has existed, until, in 1826, their
founder, Joseph Smith, was visited by an angel from heaven. This
favoured man was instructed by the heavenly messenger in the way
of truth, and led to a spot where, concealed in a stone box buried in
the earth, were a number of records, written upon golden plates, and
in a language called by him the “reformed Egyptian.” From this
box a portion of the records were taken by the angel and given to
Joseph, upon whom was also conferred the “power and gift of re-
velation,’’ by which he was enabled to translate the writing graven
upon the plates. This he did, and gave the result to the world, as the
“¢ Book of Mormon.” Joseph, they say, was also ordained to the
‘‘ Melchisedec priesthood,” with the power of knowledge in all lan-
guages, the gifts of the Spirit, and the authority of «binding and
loosing.” He and an associate were constituted apostles to preach
the «gospel,’’ and to establish among the nations the “church of
Jesus Christ of the latter-day saints.’ In 1830, a church was
organized, consisting of six members only, which has since grown
so as to count its disciples by hundreds of thousands.
The Bible used by the Protestant Christian world is acknow-
ledged by them to be of Divine origin and authority, but they as-
sert that it has been much corrupted and interpolated, so much so
as to require in part a new translation, which has been accordingly
completed by their prophet Joseph, directly inspired for the pur-
pose, and the book is soon to be published. ‘They claim for the
«‘Book of Mormon” the same Divine origin, and hold it to be equally
authoritative with our Scriptures as a rule of faith and practice.
In addition, they have the direct revelations which have heretofore
been made to the seer, and which are recorded in the «Book of
136 PRIVATE AND DOMESTIC RELATIONS.
Doctrines and Covenants ;”’ and they also continue to receive, as in-
timations of the Divine will, such communications as are now made
to his successor from time to time, for their guidance, not only in
matters of faith and doctrine, but in those also of worldly policy
and the concerns of every-day life. In the gift of miracles, and
healing of the sick by the laying on of hands by the elders of the
church, they are firm believers; and I have met more than one
who has assured me not only that they had been eye-witnesses of —
the miraculous cures thus performed, but had themselves been the
subjects of them. :
The mode of worship is, in its general arrangement, the same
as that adopted by most Protestant denominations who do not use
printed ritual; to wit, singing, prayer, and a sermon or exhortation
from the pulpit. A band of music is stationed behind the choir of
singers, and not only aids in the devotional services, but regales
the audience before and after the close of the exercises.
But it is in their private and domestic relations that this sin-
gular people exhibit the widest departure from the habits and prac-
tice of all others denominating themselves Christian. I refer to
what has been generally termed the “spiritual wife system,” the
practice of which was charged against them in Illinois, and served
greatly to prejudice the public mind in that State. It was then, I be-
lieve, most strenuously denietl by them that any such practice
prevailed, nor is it now openly avowed, either as a matter sanc-
tioned by their doctrine or discipline. But that polygamy does
actually exist among them cannot be concealed from any one of
the most ordinary observation, who has spent even a short time in
this community. I heard it proclaimed from the stand, by the
president of the church himself, that he had the right to take a
thousand wives, if he thought proper; and he defied any one to
prove from the Bible that he had not. At the same time, I have
never known any member of the community to avow that he him-
self had more than one, although that such was the fact was
as well known and understood as any fact could be.
If a man, once married, desires to take him a second helpmate, he
must first, as with us, obtain the consent of the lady intended, and
that of her parents or guardians, and afterward the approval of the
seer or president, without which the matter cannot proceed. The
woman is then “ sealed’ to him under the solemn sanction of the
church, and stands, in all respects, in the same relation to the man,
as the wife that was first married. The union thus formed is con-
PLURALITY OF WIVES. 137
sidered a perfectly virtuous and honourable one, and the lady
maintains, without blemish, the same position in society to which
she would be entitled were she the sole wife of her husband. In-
deed, the connection being under the sanction of the only true
priesthood, is deemed infinitely more sacred and binding than any
marriage among the gentile world, not only on account of its higher
and more sacred authority, but inasmuch as it bears directly
‘ upon the future state of existence of both the man and the woman;
for it is the doctrine of the church, that no woman can attain to
celestial glory without the husband, nor can he arrive at full per-
fection in the next world without at least one wife: and the greater
the number he is able to take with him, the higher will be his seat
in the celestial paradise.
All idea of sensuality, as the motive of such unions, is most in-
dignantly repudiated; the avowed object being to raise up, as
rapidly as possible, ««a holy generation to the Lord,” who shall
build up his kingdom on the earth. Purity of life, in all the do-
mestic relations, is strenuously inculcated; and they do not hesitate
to declare, that when they shall obtain the uncontrolled power of
making their own civil laws, (which will be when they are admitted
as one of the States of the Union,} they will punish the departure
from chastity in the severest manner, even by death.
As the seer or president alone possesses the power to approve
of these unions, so also he alone can absolve the parties from their
bonds, should circumstances in his Judgment render it at any time
either expedient or necessary. It may easily be perceived, then,
what a tremendous influence the possession of such a power must
give to him who holds it, and how great must be the prudence,
firmness, sagacity, and wisdom required in one who thus stands in
the relation of confidential adviser, as well as of civil and eccle-
siastical ruler, over this singularly constituted community.
Upon the practical working of this system of plurality of wives,
I can hardly be expected to express more than a mere opinion.
Being myself an “outsider” and a “gentile,” it is not to be sup-
posed that I should have been permitted to view more than the
surface of what is in fact as yet but an experiment, the details of
which are sedulously veiled from public view. So far, however,
as my intercourse with the inhabitants afforded me an opportunity
of judging, its practical operation was quite different from what I
had anticipated. Peace, harmony, and cheerfulness seemed to
prevail, where my preconceived notions led me to look for nothing
~~. ll ene
138 PRACTICAL WORKING OF THE SYSTEM.
but the exhibition of petty jealousies, envy, bickerings, and strife.
Confidence and sisterly affection among the different members of
the family seemed pre-eminently conspicuous, and friendly inter-
course among neighbours, with balls, parties, and merry-makings
at each others’ houses, formed a prominent and agreeable feature
of the society. In these friendly reunions, the president, with his
numerous family, mingled freely, and was ever an honoured and
welcome guest, tempering by his presence the exuberant hilarity
of the young, and not unfrequently closing with devotional exer-
cises the gayety of a happy evening.
There are many other curious points contained in their religious
creed, but it is not my purpose here to write a theological treatise
upon their views. The effect of the system, as may be well sup-
posed, is to render the people in a high degree separate and pecu-
liar; and to prevent, not only all amalgamation, but even any
intimate association, with other communities.
To this irreconcilable difference, not in speculative opinions only,
but in habits, manners, and customs necessarily growing out of
them, may, I think, in a great measure, be attributed the bitter
hostility of the people among whom they formerly dwelt, and
which resulted in their forcible expulsion. The same causes of
social incompatibility which existed then, exist now, and in much
greater strength—the community being freed from the pressure
of public opinion that then surrounded them; and, although the
freest toleration is (no doubt sincerely) proclaimed toward any who
may choose to settle among them, yet I do not see howit is pos-
sible for the members of any other Christian societies, all of which
are theoretically and practically opposed to their views, to exist
among them, without constant collision, jealousy, and.strife. The
result, therefore, must be the establishment here of a people of
one faith, the fundamental principles of whose civil government —
will, under the lead of the ecclesiastical hierarchy, be framed to
accord with that faith, to build up and support it, and to exclude
from all participation in its administration every element that
does not fully coincide with its requirements. When what is now
but a Territory shall have become a sovereign State, with the un-
controlled power of making its own laws, this will undoubtedly be
done; and we shall then see in our midst a State as different from
the rest of the Union in faith, manners, and customs, as it is
widely separated by the vast plains and inhospitable deserts that
surround it. That such a State will soon be formed, no refiecting
PROSPECTIVE STATE OF DESERET. 139
man can well doubt, who has witnessed the indomitable energy, the
unity and concentration of action, together with the enthusiastic
spirit of proselytism which seems to possess the entire Mormon com-
munity. Their zeal for increasing their sect has already filled the
world with their missionaries; and has, within the space of four
years, and in defiance of obstacles that would have appalled most
ordinary adventurers, collected a population of some twenty thou-
sand souls, all breathing the same spirit, animated by the same
hope, bound by the same views, and unitedly engaged, heart and
hand, in providing means by which converts to the faith may be
transported from all parts of the world to this great head-quarters
of the church, «the fountain where truth flows from the lips of the
prophet of God, and where true liberty can only be enjoyed by the
saints.”
A large and constantly increasing fund has been created
among them, called «The Perpetual Emigration Fund,” which is
devoted exclusively to this object, and receives liberal contributions
from the “saints,” both in this country and in Europe; it being the
authorized teaching, all over the world, that it is as much a duty
binding on every “saint” «to build up the valleys of the moun-
tains,” by assisting forward those brethren who are too poor to
provide an outfit for themselves, as it is to be baptized for the re-
mission of sins. The effects of this widely diffused spirit of propa-
gandism are already seen in the number of converts that have
been made in most of the countries of Europe, as well as in the
Sandwich Islands, and even here in our own country, with all of
whom it is made a cardinal point to “gather to the mountains.”
Measures are being taken to open a southern route, by which the
converts coming from abroad may cross the Isthmus of Panama,
and, landing at San Diego, may thence reach the land of promise
by a comparatively short and easy transit, without being subjected
to the hazard of a sickly voyage up the Mississippi, or to the
tedious and expensive journey across the plains. In the mean while,
preparations are industriously making in the valley for the recep-
tion and immediate accommodation of the coming tide, by the
building of houses, sowing large quantities of grain, the erection
of mills, the establishment of manufactures, the importation of
labour-saving machinery, and the establishment upon a solid basis
of the means of education. The manifest object of these harmo-
niously concerted movements is to concentrate, as speedily as
practicable, in «the valley of the mountains,” a number sufficiently
SSS
140 SOIL—WATER—IRRIGATION.
great to entitle the present Territory of Utah to demand from the
General Government admission into the Union as one of the sove-
reign States of the confederacy, and thus to secure to themselves
unmolested the right to carry out in practice the peculiar princi- .
ples of their creed. That their wishes in this respect will be
shortly realized may be considered certain.
Let us now look for a moment at the sources which can be made
available for the sustenance of a population so numerous as it is
thus confidently anticipated will ere long be congregated within
the limits of the «Basin State.” Situated so far inland, without
water communication with any part of the continent, and isolated
by the very nature of the surrounding regions, it will readily be seen
that the new State must necessarily depend, in a great measure, for
its support, upon means within itself. Agriculture and the rais-
ing of stock must therefore be the principal basis of its pros-
perity. For both these purposes the country which they have set-
tled is, fortunately, well adapted. The land available for the first
of these objects, though limited in extent when compared with the
vast deserts which intervene, is still ample for the support of a large,
though not very dense population. Owing to the almost total ab-
sence of rain, from May to October, the dependence of the farmer
must be entirely upon irrigation. ‘The means for this are supplied
from the reservoirs of snow which accumulate in the gorges of the
mountains, furnishing, during the whole of the summer, abundant
and never-failing streams, which assume in some instances the
character of rivers of considerable magnitude.
The soil, formed chiefly from the disintegration of the feldspa-
thic rock, mixed with detritus of the limestone, of which the
mountains are principally composed, is of the most fertile cha-
racter. Owing to its loose and porous texture, it absorbs water
very readily and in large quantities. Consequently, the streams
which come rushing down the mountain-sides, when they reach the
‘plain below, begin to dwindle into insignificant rivulets, and soon
sink and are entirely lost. Many never reach the base of the
mountain at all, being absorbed by the soil; and even in the islands
of the lake there are to be found, near the summits, roaring tor-
rents, which, ere making half the descent of the mountain, so com-
pletely disappear as to leave not even a dry bed or channel to
show they had ever reached the water below. Cultivation is there-
fore circumscribed within very narrow limits, being generally re-
stricted to a strip of from one to two miles wide, along the base
PRODUCTIONS—UTAH VALLEY. 141
of the mountains, beyond which the water does not reach. The
extensive plains between the mountain ranges, although composed
of soil nearly equal in fertility, are at present useless for the pur-
poses of agriculture, from the want of water. The smallness of
the area suitable for cultivation is, however, compensated by the
prodigious productiveness of the soil, which, together with the cli-
mate, is peculiarly favourable to the growth of wheat, barley, oats,
and all the cereal grains. I brought with me, for distribution, a
portion of a crop of wheat, which had produced, upon three and one-
half acres of ground, the enormous yield of one hundred and eighty
bushels, from a single bushel of seed. In situations peculiarly
favourable for watering, the average yield of all lands properly cul-
tivated may be very safely estimated at forty bushels. Maize, or In-
dian corn, has not as yet proved so successful, owing to the early
frosts occasioned by the vicinity of the mountains; but beets, tur-
nips, melons, and especially potatoes, exceed in increase even the
most sanguine anticipations. The quality of the latter is fully
equal, if not superior, to the best Nova Scotia varieties.
On the eastern side of the Salt Lake Valley, the land susceptible
of irrigation stretches along the western base of the Wahsatch
Mountains, from about eighty miles north of Salt Lake City to
about sixty south of it, the latter portion embracing, toward its
terminus, the fertile valley of Lake Utah. This is a beautiful
sheet of pure fresh water, thirty miles in length, and about ten in
breadth, surrounded on three sides by rugged mountains and
lofty hills, with a broad grassy valley sloping to the water’s edge,
opening to the northward. Through this opening flows the river
Jordan, by which its waters are discharged into the Great Salt
Lake. The lake abounds in fine fish, principally speckled trout,
of great size and exquisite flavour, which afford sustenance to nu-
merous small bands of Utahs. |
The Jordan, in its passage, cuts through a cross range of moun-
tains that divides the two valleys, making a deep cajion, in which
are rapids. At most seasons of the year a skiff can be safely
floated down these boiling waters, if managed with sufficient skill
to avoid striking the projecting rocks. The fall continues abrupt
for one mile, and the river could here be led along the escarpment
of the western hills as far as to a point opposite the mouth of the
Little Cotton-wood, and thence on a curve to Spring Point, at
the north end of the Oquirrh Mountain, thus probably bringing
under irrigation about eighty square miles of fertile land.
142 PROGRESS OF NEW SETTLEMENTS.
Near the eastern shores of Lake Utah, a site for a city has been
selected on the left bank of the Provaux or Timpanogas River, an
affluent of the lake, which is to be called Provauz City. From
Ogden City on the north, all the way to this latter «Stake of
Zion,” the base of the Wahsatch range is studded with flourishing
farms, wherever a little stream flows down the mountain-side with
water sufficient’ for irrigating purposes; while in the gorges and
cafions of the mountain are erected the saw and grist mills. Of
the former, sixteen, and of the latter, eleven have been completed,
and others are in the process of erection.
To the south of Lake Utah, on one of its tributaries, another
city has been founded, called Paysan, and a hundred and thirty
miles farther, on the road to California, another, named Mantz, in
what is called San Pete Valley. Still farther south, near Little
Salt Lake, two hundred and fifty miles south of the city, a fourth, .
called Cedar City, has been laid out, in a spot possessing the ad-
vantages of excellent soil and water, plenty of wood, iron ore, and
alum, with some prospect of coal. It is the ultimate object of
the Mormons, by means of stations, wherever the nature of the
country will admit of their settling in numbers sufficient for self-
defence, to establish a line of communication with the Pacific, so as
to afford aid to their brethren coming from abroad, while on their
pilgrimage to the land of promise. These stations will gradually
become connected by farms and smaller settlements wherever
practicable, until the greater part of the way will exhibit one long
line of cultivated fields from the Mormon capital to San Diego.
The mode adopted for the founding of a new town is peculiar
and highly characteristic. An expedition is first sent out to ex-
plore the cowntry, with a view to the selection of such points as,
from their natural’ advantages, offer facilities for a settlement.
These being duly reported to the authorities, an elder of the
church is appointed to preside over the little band designated to .
make the first improvement. ‘This company is composed partly
of volunteers and partly of such as are selected by the presidency,
due regard being had to a proper intermixture of mechanical
artisans, to render the expedition independent of all aid from
without. In this way the settlement at San Pete was begun,
sixty families 1eaving in a body, under one of the high officers of
the church, and that in the month of October, undergoing all the
rigours of cold and snow, to establish another “stake’’ in the wil-
derness. In December of the following year, another expedition,
MANUFACTURES—EDUCATION. 143
similarly composed and commanded, succeeded, with one hundred
and thirty men and families, in planting the settlement at Little
Salt Lake, which is represented as being now in a very flourishing
condition. The succeeding March, a third party, with a hundred
and fifty wagons, left the capital for the purpose of establishing a
settlement in the southern part of California. It was to be
situated at no great distance from San Diego, and near Williams’s
ryanche and Cahone Pass, between which and Little Salt Lake it is
designed to establish other settlements as speedily as possible. By
means of these successive places of refreshment, the incoming
emigration from the Pacific will be enabled to “go from strength
to strength” till they reach the Zion of their hopes.
At Salt Lake City itself, energetic measures are being taken for
opening a woollen factory, the raw material being furnished from
sheep raised in the valley, to the grazing of which the mountain
slopes are admirably adapted, and whose production has already
attracted the attention of this energetic and far-seeing people. A
‘pottery for the manufacture of earthenware is completed; and
cutlery establishments have been successfully commenced. Ex-
tensive arrangements are going forward for raising the sugar-beet,
which, under such favourable circumstances, cannot but prove suc-
cessful; and ere long it is confidently anticipated that a sufficient
quantity of sugar will be manufactured from it to meet all their
wants. At present they are supplied with this article and other
groceries, as well as with dry-goods and clothing, from extensive
stocks brought in by enterprising merchants from the States; but
the policy of the people is to provide for their own wants by their
own skill and industry, and to dispense, as much as possible, with
the products of the labour of others.
While all these exertions are making for the physical develop-
ment of a new empire among the mountains, the mental elevation
of the people by education has been by no means lost sight of. -
Liberal appropriations of land and money have been made for the
establishment of an university, the grounds. for which are laid
out and enclosed, being situated on one of the terraces of the
mountain overlooking the city. A normal school, designed for
the education of those who desire to become teachers, is already
in successful operation. School-houses have been built in most
of the districts, both in the city and country, which are attended
by old as well as young, and every effort is made to advance the
mental improvement of the people.
ee ie
144 PUBLIC SENTIMENT AMONG THE MORMONS.
When it is remembered that within the space of four years
this country was but a wild and dreary wilderness, where the howl
of the wolf and the yell of the miserable Indian alone awoke the
echoes of the mountains, and where the bear, the deer, and the
antelope roamed securely over what is now a compact and popu-
lous city ; that the physical obstacles to the occupation of a region
sO unpromising were sufficient to discourage the most sanguine
imagination and to appal the stoutest heart,—the mind is filled
with wonder at witnessing the immense results which have been
accomplished in so short a time, and from a nega apparently
So insignificant.
Apprehensions have been entertained as to the expediency of
giving any countenance to the founding, in our midst, of an asso-
ciation of men so peculiar in views, and so distinct in principles,
manners, and customs, from the rest of the American people.
Serious doubts, too, have been expressed in regard to the policy
of appointing Mormons to offices of high trust in the administra-
tion of the affairs of the newly-erected territory; and direct
charges have been widely published, seriously affecting the patriot-
ism and personal reputation of the Mormon leaders, as well as
the loyal feelings of the people toward the General Government.
Such doubts and apprehensions are, in my judgment, totally
groundless, and the charges I believe to be either based upon pre-
judice or to have grown out of a want of accurate information.
A residence of a year in the midst of the Mormon community,
during the greater part of which period I was in constant inter-
course with both rulers and people, afforded much bP a for
ascertaining the real facts of the case.
That a deep and abiding resentment of injuries received and
wrongs endured in Missouri and. Illinois pervades the whole Mor-
mon community, is perfectly true; and that among many of the
less informed, and, I regret to add, some even whose intelligence
and education ought to have enabled them to form more correct
opinions, this exasperation has extended itself to the General Go-
vernment, because of its refusal to interpose for their protection
at the time of these difficulties, is also true; but, from all that I
saw and heard, I deem it but simple justice to say, that notwith-
standing these causes of irritation, a more loyal and patriotic peo-
ple cannot be found within the limits of the Union. This, I think,
was emphatical!y shown in the promptitude and cheerfulness with
which they responded to the call of the Government to furnish a
’
LOYALTY OF RULERS AND PEOPLE. 145
battalion for service during the Mexican war. While in the heart
of an Indian country, and on the eve of a long and uncertain pil-
grimage into an unknown wilderness, they were suddenly called
upon to surrender five hundred of their best men to the hazards
of a hostile campaign, and to the exposure and vicissitudes of a
march of two thousand miles across trackless deserts and burning
plains, to fight the battles of their country. Their peculiar cir-
cumstances presented almost insuperable objections to a compli-
ance with the requisition, yet not the slightest hesitation was
evinced. «You shall have your battalion at once,” was the reply
of President Young, «if it has to be a class of our elders ;” and
in three days the force, recruited principally among fathers of
families, was raised and ready to march. Here certainly was no
2 ee of a lack of patriotism.*
* The following extract from a sermon of Brigham Young to his people will, I
think, confirm the correctness of my views as to the sentiments of the Mormon
» leaders, at that time, on this subject :-—
«‘T want to say to every man, the constitution of the United States, as formed
by our fathers, was dictated, was revealed, was put into their hearts by the Al-
mighty, who sits enthroned.in the midst of the heavens; although unknown to
them, it was dictated by the revelations of Jesus Christ, and I tell you, in the name
of Jesus Christ, it is as good as I could ever ask for.” <‘‘I say unto you, magnify
the laws. There is no law in the United States, or in the constitution, but I am
ready to make honourable.”
Many more expressions of a like character might be quoted, but the above
are sufficient to show what were the opinions of the rulers.
The following language, used by General D. H. Wells, at the celebration of the
fourth anniversary of the advent of the Mormons into the Valley, will show, I
think, what was the feeling of the people :—
«It has been thought by some, that this people, abused, maltreated, insulted,
robbed, plundered, murdered, and finally disfranchised and expatriated, would
naturally feel reluctant to again unite their destiny with the American republic.”
* * X «No wonder that it was thought by some that we would not again submit
ourselves (even while we were yet scorned and ridiculed) to return to our allegi-
ance to our native country. Remember, that it was by the act of our country,
not ours, that we were expatriated; and then consider the opportunity we had
of forming other ties. Let this pass, while we lift the veil and show the policy
which dictated us. That country, that constitution, those institutions, were all
ours; they are still ours. Our fathers were heroes of the Revolution. Under the
master spirits of an Adams, a Jefferson, and a Washington, they declared and
maintained their independence; and, under the guidance of the Spirit of truth,
they fulfilled their mission whereunto they were sent from the presence of the
Father. Because demagogues have arisen and seized the reins of power, should
we relinquish our interest in that country made dear to us by every tie of asso-
ciation and consanguinity?” * * * ‘Those who have indulged such sentiments
concerning us, have not read Mormonism aright; for never, no never, will we
146 BRIGHAM YOUNG.
Whether in the pulpit, in public addresses,,in official documents,
or in private intercourse, the same spirit of lofty patriotism
seemed to pervade their whole community. At the same time, it
should not be concealed that a stern determination exists among
them to submit to no repetition of the outrages to which they were
subjected in Illinois and Missouri; but, on the contrary, to resist
by force and to the last extremity, from whatever quarter, any
such interference with what they consider their civil and religious
rights, guarantied to them, as to other citizens, by the constitution
of the United States. Vain-glorious vaunts may indeed have been
sometimes made by individuals whose knowledge and judgment
were not equal to their religious zeal, as to the ability of the com-
munity to maintain itself in the fastnesses of the mountains, even
against the military forces of the Government; but we know that
there are in every society men whose valour is ever great in pro-
portion to the remoteness of the danger. I have no idea that any
such collision was ever seriously anticipated.
Upon the action of the Executive in the appointment of the of-
ficers within the newly-created Territory, it does not become me to
offer other than a very diffident opinion. Yet the opportunities of
information to which allusion has already been made, may perhaps
justify me in presenting the result of my own observations upon
this subject. With all due deference, then, I feel constrained to
say, that in my opinion the appointment of the president of the
Mormon church, and head of the Mormon community, in preference
to any other person, to the high office of Governor of the Terri-
tory, independent of its political bearings, with which I have
nothing to do, was a measure dictated alike by justice and by sound
policy. Intimately connected with them from their exodus from
Illinois, this man has been indeed their Moses, leading them
through the wilderness to a remote and unknown land, where they
have since set up their tabernacle, and where they are now building
their temple. Resolute in danger, firm and sagacious in council, »
prompt and energetic in emergency, and enthusiastically devoted
to the honour and interests of his people, he had won their unlimited
desert our country’s cause; never will we be found arrayed by the side of her
enemies, although she herself may cherish them in her own bosom. Although she
may launch forth the thunderbolts of war, which may return and spend their fury
upon her own head, never, no never, will we permit the weakness of human na-
ture to triumph over our love of country, our devotion to her institutions, handed
down to us by our honoured sires, made dear by a thousand tender recollections.”
Such, surely, is neither the language nor the spirit of a disloyal people.
BRIGHAM YOUNG. 147
confidence, esteem, and veneration, and held an unrivalled place in
their hearts. Upon the establishment of the provisional govern-
ment, he had been unanimously chosen as their highest civil
magistrate, and even before his appointment by the President, he
combined in his own person the triple character of confidential ad-
viser, temporal ruler, and prophet of God. Intimately acquainted
with their character, capacities, wants, and weaknesses; identified
now with their prosperity, as he had formerly shared to the full in
their adversity and sorrows; honoured, trusted, the whole wealth
of the community placed in his hands, for the advancement both
of the spiritual and temporal interests of the infant settlement, he
was, surely, of all others, the man best fitted to preside, under the
auspices of the General Government, over a colony of which he
may justly be said to have been the founder. No other man could
have so entirely secured the confidence of the people; and this se-
lection by the Executive of the man of their choice, besides being
highly gratifying to them, is recognised as an assurance that they
shall hereafter receive at the hands of the General Government
that justice and consideration to which they are entitled. Their
confident hope now is that, no longer fugitives and outlaws, but
dwelling beneath the broad shadow of the national egis, they will
be subject no more to the violence and outrage which drove them
to seek a secure habitation in this far distant wilderness.
As to the imputations that have been made against the personal
character of the governor, I feel confident they are without founda-
tion. Whatever opinion may be entertained of his pretensions
to the character of an inspired prophet, or of his views and prac-
tice on the subject of polygamy, his personal reputation I believe
to be above reproach. Certain it is that the most entire confidence
is felt in his integrity, personal, official, and pecuniary, on the part
of those to whom a long and intimate association, and in the most
trying emergencies, have afforded every possible opportunity of
forming a just and accurate judgment of his true character.
From all I saw and heard, I am firmly of opinion that the ap-
pointment of any other man to the office of governor would have
been regarded by the whole people, not only as a sanction, but as
in some sort a renewal, on the part of the General Government, of
that series of persecutions to which they had already been sub-
jected, and would have operated to create distrust and suspicion
in minds prepared to hail with joy the admission of the new Terri-
tory to the protection of the supreme government.
148 NATIVE TRIBES.
The native tribes with whom we came in contact in the valley
were the most degraded and the lowest in the scale of being of
any I had ever seen. ‘They consisted of the «root-diggers,” a
class of Indians which seemed to be composed of outcasts from
their respective tribes, subsisting chiefly upon roots dug from the
ground, and the seeds of various plants indigenous to the soil, which
they grind into a kind of flour between two flat stones. Lizards
and crickets also form a portion of their food. At certain seasons
of the year they obtain, from the tributaries of both the Salt Lake
and Lake Utah, a considerable quantity of fish, which they take
in weirs or traps, constructed of willow-bushes. Those that we
saw were branches from the Shoshonees or Snakes, and from the
large and warlike tribe of Utahs, which latter inhabit a large
tract of country to the southward. ‘They are known among the
traders by the designation of «‘snake-diggers,”’ and « Utes;”’ those
of the latter tribe, which inhabit the vicinity of the lakes and
streams and live chiefly on fish, being distinguished by the name of
«« Pah Utahs,”’ or «« Pah Utes,’”’—the word Pah, in their language,
signifying water.
While engaged in the survey of the Utah Valley, we were no
little annoyed by numbers of the latter tribe, who hung around the
camp, crowding around the cook-fires, more like hungry dogs than
human beings, eagerly watching for the least scrap that might be
thrown away, which they devoured with avidity and without the
least preparation. The herdsmen also complained that their cattle
were frequently scattered, and that notwithstanding their utmost
vigilance, several of them had unaccountably disappeared and were
lost. One morning, a fine fat ox came into camp with an arrow
buried in his side, which perfectly accounted for the disappearance
of the others.
After the party left Lake Utah for winter quarters in Salt Lake
City, the Indians became more insolent, boasting of what they had
done—driving off the stock of the inhabitants in the southern set- —
tlements, resisting all attempts to recover them, and finally firing
upon the people themselves, as they issued from their little stockade
to attend to their ordinary occupations. Under these circum-
stances, the settlers in the Utah Valley applied to the supreme
government, at Salt Lake City, for counsel as to the proper course
of action. The president was at first extremely averse to the
adoption of harsh measures; but, after several conciliatory over-
tures had been resorted to in vain, he very properly determined to
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MORMON TROUBLES WITH THE UTAHS. 149
put a stop, by force, to further aggressions, which, if not resisted,
could only end in the total destruction of the colony. Before
coming to this decision, the authorities called upon me to con-
sult as to the policy of the measure, and to, request the expres-
sion of my opinion as to what view the Government of the United
States might be expected to take of it. Knowing, as I did, most
of the circumstances, and feeling convinced that some action of
the kind would ultimately have to be resorted to, as the forbear-
ance already shown had been only attributed to weakness and
cowardice, and had served but to encourage further and bolder
outrages, I did not hesitate to say to them that, in my judgment,
the contemplated expedition against these savage marauders was a
measure not only of good policy, but one of absolute necessity and
self-preservation. I knew the leader of the Indians to be a crafty
and blood-thirsty savage, who had been already guilty of several
murders, and had openly threatened that he would kill every white
man that he found alone upon the prairies. In addition to this, I
was convinced that the completion of the yet unfinished survey of
the Utah Valley, the coming season, must otherwise be attended
with serious difficulty, if not actual hazard, and would involve the
necessity of a largely increased and armed escort for its protec-
tion. Such being the circumstances, the course proposed could
not but meet my entire approval.
A force of one hundred men was accordingly organized, and, upon
the application of President Young, leave was given to Lieutenant
Howland, of the Mounted Rifles, then on duty with my command,
to accompany the expedition as its adjutant: such assistance also
was furnished as it was in my power to afford, consisting of arms,
tents, camp-equipage, and ammunition.
The expedition was completely successful. The Indians fought
very bravely, but were finally routed, some forty of them killed,
and as many more taken prisoners; the latter, consisting princi-
pally of women and children, were carried to the city and distri-
buted among the inhabitants, for the purpose of weaning them from
their savage pursuits, and bringing them up in the habits of civil-
ized and Christian life. The experiment, however, did not succeed
as was anticipated, most of the prisoners epcapme upon the very
first opportunity.
On the 22d of February, about three P. M., a slight shock of
an earthquake was felt in the southern part of the city, the vibra-
150 ZOOLOGICAL SPECIMENS—THERMAL WATERS.
tions being sufficient to shake plates from the shelves and to dis-
turb milk in the pans.
Advantage was taken of the confinement of the party to winter
quarters to observe for the latitude, to arrange and plot the notes
of the survey as far as it had advanced, and to collect and pre-
pare specimens of the zoology of the valley. These specimens
have since been classified and arranged with characteristic ability
by Professor Spencer F. Baird, of the Smithsonian Institution,
whose report on that subject is hereto appended. Specimens of
the different thermal waters, also, were collected and brought
safely as far as Pittsburgh; but, in their transportation thence by
the express line, most of the vessels containing them were unfor-
tunately broken, and their contents lost. This was a subject
of much regret, as interesting results had been anticipated from
the analysis. Such as escaped destruction have been carefully
analyzed by Dr. L. D. Gale, of Washington, and the results will be
found in Appendix F.
During the winter, a large boat was built for the survey of
the Salt Lake. This was an achievement of no little difficulty,
as almost every stick of timber used in the construction had to
be procured from the cajions of the mountains, piece by piece; and
the planking, although of the best material the country afforded,
was so “shaky” and liable to split and crack, that it was totally
unfit for the purpose. Had time permitted, it had been my pur-
pose to procure, before setting out, a couple of Francis’s metallic
life-boats for this service, which would have saved much time and
labour. The experience of the exploring expedition to the Dead
Sea has fully proved the entire fitness of these boats for service
of this nature; and the ease with which they can be transported
in sections, and. be put together for instant use, will doubtless ren-
der them hereafter an indispensable part of the equipment for
every exploration of a similar character. Where the use of wagons
is practicable, these boats can readily be mounted on wheels and
made to answer the purposes of a wagon-box; and where this is
not the case, their arrangement into sections will allow of their
being packed and transported on the backs of mules with but little
inconvenience.
Stine aici
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Dini gD OSH
BARON LA HONTAN. 151
CHAPTER VIII.
EARLY KNOWLEDGE OF THE EXISTENCE OF A BODY OF SALT WATER
IN THIS REGION, BY BARON LA HONTAN.—SURVEY OF THE GREAT
SALT LAKE.
THE opening of the spring at length enabling us to prepare
for a renewal of active operations in the field, the opportunity
was eagerly embraced, since upon the completion of the survey
before the setting in of cold weather depended the return of the
party to their homes before the recurrence of winter.
The season was now approaching when it would become our
duty to enter upon a critical examination of this interesting and
hitherto almost unknown region, and the remarkable body of
water to which it is indebted for so much of the interest which
attaches to it. It may not, therefore, be deemed inappropriate to
look back and see what ideas prevailed in regard to it durimg the
infant period of our national geography.
The existence of a large lake of salt’ water somewhere amid the
wilds west of the Rocky Mountains seems to have been known
vaguely as long as one hundred and fifty years since. As early as
May, 1689, the Baron La Hontan, “lord-lieutenant of the French
colony at Placentia in New Foundland,” wrote an account of dis-
coveries in this region, which was published in the English lan-
guage in 1735.
In the letter, which is dated at «« Missilimakinac,” he gives «an
account of the author’s departure from and return to Missilimaki-
nac; a description of the Bay of Puants, and its villages; an
ample description of the beavers, followed by the journal of a
remarkable voyage upon the Long River, and a map of the adja-
cent country.” |
Leaving Mackinaw, he passed into Green Bay, which he calls
«the Bay of Pouteouotamis,’”’ and arrived at the mouth of the
Fox River, which he describes as «a little deep sort of a river
which disembogues at a place where the water of the lake swells
three feet high in twelve hours, and decreases as much in the
same compass of time.”
152 BARON LA HONTAN—LONG RIVER.
«¢ The village of the Sakis, Pouteouatamis, and some Malominis,
are seated on the side of that river, and the Jesuits have a house
or college built upon it.’ Ascending the Fox River, called «the
river of Puants,’’ he came to a village of « Kikapous, which
stands on the brink of a little lake in which the savages fish great
quantities of pikes and gudgeons.’”’ (Lake Winnebago 2)
Still ascending the river, he passed through the «little lake of
the Malominis,” the sides of which «‘are covered with a sort of
oats which grow in tufts, with a small stalk, and of which the
savages reap plentiful crops,” and at length arrived at the land
carriage of Ouisconsinc, which we finished in two days; that is,
we left the river Puants, and transported our canoes and baggage
to the river Ouisconsince, which is not above three-quarters of a
league distant or thereabouts.’’ Descending the Wisconsin, in
four days he reached its mouth, and landed on an island in the
river Mississippi.
So far the journey of the Baron La Hontan is plain enough ; but
beyond this point it is rather apocryphal. He states that he as-
cended the Mississippi for nine days, when he “entered the mouth
of the Long River, which looks like a lake full of bulrushes.”
He sailed up this river for six weeks, passing through various na-
tions of savages, of which a most fanciful description is given.
At length, deterred by the advance of the season, he abandoned
the intention of reaching the heads of the river, and returned to
Canada, having, at the termination of his voyage, first “fixed a
great long pole, with the arms of France done upon a plate of
lead.”” The following is his description of «the Long River.”
«You must know that the stream of the Long River is all along
very slack and easy, abating for about three leagues between the
fourteenth and fifteenth village; for there, indeed, its current may
be called rapid. ‘The channel is so straight that it scarce winds
at all from the head to the lake. ’Tis true ’tis not very pleasant,
for most of its banks have a dismal prospect, and the water itself
has an ugly taste; but then its usefulness atones for such incon-
veniences, for ’tis navigable with the greatest ease, and will bear
barques of fifty tons, till you come to that place that is marked
with a flower-de-luce in the map, and where I put up the post
that my soldiers christened La Hontan’s limit.”
_ It was at this place that the baron received his information re-
_specting the lake of salt water. He says, «Two days after, the
cacick” (of the Gnacsitares) «came to see me, and brought with
— a en ee ee
_——.
aii, z ——— i
BARON LA HONTAN’S LAKE OF SALT WATER. 153
_ him four hundred of his own subjects and four Mozeemlek savages,
whom I took for Spaniards. My mistake was occasioned by the
great difference between these two American nations; for the
Mozeemlek savages were clothed, they had a thick bushy beard, and
their hair hung down under their ears; their complexion was
swarthy, their address was civil and submissive, their mien grave,
and their carriage engaging. Upon these considerations I could
not imagine that they were savages, though, after all, I found my-
self mistaken. These four slaves gave me a description of their
country, which the Gnacsitares represented by way of a map upon
a deer’s skin, as you see it drawn in this map. Their villages
stand upon a river that springs out of a ridge of mountains, from
which the Long River likewise derives its source, there being a
great many brooks there, which, by a joint confluence, form the
river.’
«The Mozeemlek nation is numerous and puissant. The four
slaves of that country informed me that at the distance of one
hundred and fifty leagues from the place I then was, their prin-
cipal river empties itself into a salt lake of three hundred leagues
in circumference, the mouth of which is two leagues broad; that
the lower part of that river is adorned with six noble cities, sur-
rounded with stone cemented with fat earth; that the houses of:
these cities have no roofs, but are open above, like a platform, as
you see them drawn in the map; that besides the above-mentioned
cities, there are above an hundred towns, great and small, round
that sort of sea, upon which they navigate with such boats as you
see drawn in the map ;* that the people of that country made
stuffs, copper axes, and several other manufactures, which the
Outagamis and my other interpreters could not give me to under-
stand, as being altogether unacquainted with such things; that
their government was despotic, and lodged in the hands of one
great head, to whom the rest paid a trembling submission ; that the
people upon that lake are called Tahuglauk, and are as numerous
as the leaves of trees, (such is the expression that the savages use
for an hyperbole;) that the Mozeemlek people supply the cities
* The boats, with a drawing, are thus described in the map :—‘‘ The vessels used
by the Tahuglauk, in which two hundred men may row, provided they are such
forms as y° Mozeemlek people drew me on y° bark of trees. According to my com-
putation, such a vessel must be one hundred and thirty feet long from the prow to
the stern.” ;
154 BARON LA HONTAN—NATIVE TRIBES.
or towns of the Tahuglauk with great numbers of little calves, which
they take in the above-mentioned mountain; and that the Tahug-
lauk make use of these calves for several ends; for they not only
eat their flesh, but bring’em up to labour, and make clothes, boots,
&ec. of their skins. They added, that it was their misfortune to
be took prisoners by the Gnacsitares with war, which had lasted for
eighteen years; but that they hoped a peace would be speedily
concluded, upon which the prisoners would be exchanged, pursuant
to the usual custom. I could pump nothing further out of ’em,
with relation to the country, commerce, and customs of that remote
nation: all they could say was that the great river of that nation
runs along westward, and that the salt lake into which it falls is
three hundred leagues in circumference and thirty in breadth, its
mouth stretching a great way to the southward.”’ «I would have
fain satisfied my curiosity, in being an eyewitness of the manners
and customs of the Tahuglauk, but that being impracticable, I
was forced to be instructed at secondhand by these Mozeemlek °
slaves; who assured me upon the faith of a savage that the Ta-
huglauk wear their beards two fingers’ breadth long; that their
garments reach down to their knees; that they cover their heads
with a sharp-pointed cap; that they always wear a long stick or
cane in their hands, which is tipped, not unlike what we use in
Europe; that they wear a sort of boot upon their legs which reach
up to their knee; that their women never show themselves, which
perhaps proceeds from the same principle that prevails in Italy
and Spain; and in fine, that this people are always at war with the
puissant nations that are seated in the neighbourhood of the
lake, but withal that they never disquiet the strolling nations that
fall in their way by reason of their weakness—an admirable lesson
for some princes in the world, who are so much intent upon the
making use of the strongest hand. This was all I could gather
upon that subject. My curiosity prompted me to desire a more
particular account ;* but unluckily I wanted a good interpreter:
* On that part of the map which is confessedly derived from Indian authority
is the following note:—‘‘ A map drawn upon stag-skins by y® Gnacsitares, who gave
me to know y® latitudes of all ye places marked in it, by pointing to y° respective
places of ye heavens that one or t’other corresponded to; for by this means I
could adjust y° latitude to half a degree or little more; having first received
from them a computation of y® distances in fazons, each of which I compute to
be three long French leagues.”
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ANTICIPATED ROUTE ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 155
and having to do with several persons that did not well understand
themselves, I could make nothing of their incoherent fustian.”’
A detailed map accompanies this imaginative voyage up this most
imaginary river. Itis represented as flowing due east through 25
degrees of longitude, numerous streams putting into it on either
side, with mountains, islands, villages, and domains of Indian tribes,
whose very names have at this day sunk into oblivion. The map
was afterward published, in 1710, by John Senex, F.R.S., as a
part of «North America, corrected from the observations communi-
cated to the Royal Society at London and the Royal Academy at
Paris,’ and I have annexed it as a specimen of the geographical
knowledge of America enjoyed at that period.
This discovery of Baron La Hontan excited, even at that early
day, the spirit of enterprise and speculation which has proved so
marked a feature in the national character. In a work published
in this country in 1772, and entitled «A description of the Pro-
vince of Carolana, by the Spaniards called Florida, and by the
French La Louisiane, by Daniel Cox,” the then proprietary, the
first part of the fifth chapter is devoted to a «A new and cu-
rious discovery and relation of an easy communication between
the river Meschacebe (Mississippi) and the South Sea which sepa-
rates America from China, by means of several large rivers and
lakes.”
The author says :—«It will be of great conveniency to this coun-
try, af ever it becomes to be settled, that there is an easy commu-
nication therewith and the South Sea, which lies between America
and China, and that two ways: by the north branch of the great
Yellow River, by the natives called the river of the Massorites,”’
(doubtless the Missouri,) “which hath a course of five hundred
miles, navigable to its heads or springs, and which proceeds from
a ridge of hills somewhat north of New Mexico, passable by horse,
foot, or wagon, in less than half a day. On the other side are
riers which run into a great lake that empties itself by another
great navigable river into the South Sea. The same may be said
of the Meschaouay, up which our people have been, but not so far
as the Baron La Hontan, who passed on it above three hundred
miles almost due west, and declares it comes from the same ridge
of hills above mentioned, and that divers rivers from the other side
soon make a large river, which enters into a vast lake, on which
‘Inhabit two or three great nations, much more populous and civil-
ized than other Indians; and out of that lake a great river disem-
The Long River or Dedd River was discover fately by the j {2 ES =
Baron liahontan as for as uw markd inthe May) that whith as! Cah coors
sor tsmore Co the ba was drain by the Savages of the Hation / " g Sin, 2 ek ts
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whde and 300 about according lo the of « part of a map of - the Panis
NORTH AMERICA
corrected feom the observations
communicaled to the Kayal Seetely
al London and the Royal Academy
report of the Savages who allfo Say Lack Fanis
that the mouth ofa “sat agreal des
tance, from the South C ‘caft, and ts
tarry, 2 leaques broad That Were is ae : 5
above 100 Tons about t /Qnd that ; at Faris. ; . \ Sopmbely
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10.5.
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Y. F Louis formerly
cald Chevecndr
156 COMMENCEMENT OF THE SURVEY OF SALT LAKE.
bogues into the South Sea, which is doubtless the same with that
before mentioned, the head of the two rivers being little distant
from each other.”’
In his preface, the writer indulges in the following remarks:
«<The possibility of a communication by water (except about half
a day’s land carriage) between the river Meschacebe and the South
Sea, stretching from America to Japan, which is represented in
the fifth chapter of this treatise, deserves to be well and duly con-
sidered.” The work contains what is called «a large and accurate
map of Carolana, and of the river Meschacebe.”’
On the third of April, the parties were fully organized; and
every preparation being made, teams were despatched to the eastern
shore of Antelope Island, with the camp and provisions intended
for that division of our force assigned to the survey of the west
side of the lake. It was my purpose to form here a small depot,
accessible by water, and also to herd the mules and cattle during
the summer. Before commencing the actual survey, I designed
to make a thorough reconnoissance of the entire lake by water, and
to erect stations upon the prominent points of the shores and
islands, sufficient to enable me to cover the whole surface with a
series of triangles, which would verify the work.
Although it is not my purpose to give a detailed account of
every day’s operations while engaged upon this duty, I shall make
such extracts from the journals as will, perhaps, convey a suf-
ficiently clear idea of this hitherto unknown sea, and of some of
the difficulties encountered in its exploration.
After starting the teams, we embarked on board of our new
craft, to descend the Jordan to its mouth, where it enters the lake.
The stream being much swollen by the melting of the snows, the
current was extremely rapid. The dry, leafless willows on the
banks were, in some places, black with imnumerable birds’-nests,
the work of the preceding season, securely built in the midst of
impenetrable thickets. The day was bright and warm, and all
felt the exhilaration of spirits occasioned by release from a four-
months’ confinement to weary and monotonous quarters, and were
filled with the eager anticipation of ranging over the mysterious
waters of this far-famed sea! The grass was becoming green, the
waters began to flow in little rills, and the air was vocal with the
inusic of myriads of frogs set free from their icy fetters and exult-
ing beneath the genial rays of an April sun. Every thing betokened
the opening of spring, although the surrounding mountains
BEGINNING OF TROUBLES—ANTELOPE ISLAND. 157
were yet covered with snow, many of them quite down to their
bases. |
April 4.—After a row of some twenty miles, we reached the
mouth of the river, which here spread out into innumerable shallow
channels, the intervals between them consisting of soft, shiny mud,
nearly level with the surface of the water, and rendering it im-
possible to find where the mouth actually was. The channels were
only a few inches deep, although the current through them’ was
quite rapid, owing to the great body of water coming down from
above. The boat soon grounded, and all hands were overboard
and commenced dragging her forward by main force. On reach-
ing the broader expanse of water, the channels became less defined
and more shallow as we advanced. We were therefore obliged to
unload the boat entirely, and to pile up the baggage upon a plat-
form constructed of oars and tent-poles, placed upon camp-stools,
buckets and camp-kettles. After six hours of severe labour, we
at length succeeded in reaching water that would float our little
eraft; and, returning to the platform for the baggage, reloaded her,
and took once more to the oars, directing our course for Antelope
Island, to rejoin the shore party that had approached it by passing
over a sand bar which unites it with the mainland. For several
miles the water was not more than a foot in depth, but gradually
increased to six and eight feet.
After a heavy row of six hours we reached the island, and
found the camp already pitched near the beach. Drift-wood was
abundant along the shore, and a fire was very grateful, as we had
been pulling in the teeth of a raw, cold, west wind, which had
sprung up in the afternoon, and which had chilled those not warmed
by exercise, to the very bone. A hot stew and plenty of hot
coffee soon restored circulation and cheerfulness, and we retired
to our blankets and buffalo-skins, spread upon the ground, well pre-
pared by twelve hours of incessant toil for deep and welcome re-
pose. Innumerable flocks of ducks, geese, white swans, and long-
legged plover were seen during the day, congregated around the
shallows at the mouth of the Jordan.
Friday, April 5.—The water being here very indifferent, we
moved about five miles to the northward, and encamped on a
rocky point near some large springs of tolerably good water,
breaking out from the hills above. It is worthy of remark that
the quality of almost all the springs in this region is dependent,
in a great degree, upon the season of the year. In the spring and
158 ANTELOPE ISLAND—FORMATION OF SALT.
early part of summer, they are supplied by the percolations of the
melting snows from the neighbouring hills, which at this season
are generally copious, and render the water sweet and palatable.
As soon as their supplies from a higher level begin to fail, the soil
through which they run, or from the depths of which they rise,
being strongly impregnated with minerals, imparts to the water
saline or mineral qualities, which in the autumn and winter render
them totally unfit for use. Such we found to be the case in the
latter part of the succeeding summer.
The rocks among which we had now encamped consisted of
granite, or perhaps an altered sedimentary quartz or siliceous sand-
stone. Drift-wood is scattered along the shores at an elevation
of four or five feet above the present level of the lake, which must
have maintained that height for a considerable period, since in
numerous spots along the drift line unmistakable evidences of a
well-defined beach are still to be traced with perfect precision.
The wood is small and generally sound, but very dry, and must,
from its appearance, have been deposited there for many years.
It came, doubtless, from Bear River, the Weber, and the Jordan.
Antelope Island is the largest of the islands in the lake. It is
about sixteen miles in length and five miles broad in its widest
part. Like all the other islands in the lake, and, indeed, all the
prominences observed west of the Wahsatch range and within its
valley, it consists of a long rocky eminence, ranging from north
to south, rising abruptly from the water, and attainmg an eleyva-
tion of about three thousand feet above the level of the lake. A
party was sent up the mountain to erect a triangulation station
upon its highest peak. The officer charged with that duty de-
scribes the view from this elevation as grand and magnificent,
embracing the whole lake, the islands, and the encircling moun-
tains covered with snow—a superb picture set in a framework of
silver. .
The southern part of the island is connected with the main
shore by an extensive sand-flat, which, in the summer, is for the
most part dry, but is frequently flooded to the depth of eighteen
inches, the water of the lake being driven over it by every gale
from the north. Upon the cessation of the wind the water recedes,
and then the depressions of the beach are filled with pools of shal-
low water, which, evaporating under the influence of the sun,
leave extensive deposites of salt upon the sand. The beach is at
all times sufficiently hard to allow the passage of wagons from the
GNVISd SLNOWSHEdd FAO Lin Ws LSTHOS VIIN AG SSVW UNV NOLLYIS NOTLWINDNV lab
APMP OA GR YLT Wem y a: _ ‘
FREMONT’S ISLAND. | 159
main shore to the island, which is constantly resorted to on account
of its affording on the whole of its eastern slope one of the finest
ranges for horses and cattle to be found in the whole valley.
Being insulated from the main shore, it affords great comparative
security from depredations by the Indians. On account of these
advantages, and of its being accessible by water, I directed the
herd, which had been wintered in Tuilla Valley, to be driven to
this island. They were placed under the charge of the herdsman
licensed by the Mormon authorities to receive all the cattle which
may be committed to his care, he giving bond and security for
_ their safe return, and being held responsible for any loss that may
occur. The herd remained here until our departure from the
country.
Saturday, April 6—The night was windy, and the morning
cold and raw. Left camp in the boat for an island distant about
ten miles to the northward, called by the Mormons, Castle Island,
for the purpose of erecting a station upon its summit. In crossing
from the camp to the island, the lead was kept constantly going.
The deepest water found was twelve feet, the depth varying
generally from three and a half to six. Doubling the northern
cape of the island, we landed upon a narrow beach, west of a pro-
jecting little reef consisting principally of green hornblende
rock. Mica schist also crops out, at an angle of 70°.
From the drift-wood on the shore, three long poles were selected
and carried to the summit of the highest peak of the island, and
a station built with them. This was a work of severe labour, as
the island was at least eight or nine hundred feet high, the timber
heavy, and the ascent, in some places, very steep, exceeding an
angle of forty-five degrees. As we rise to the summit, argillaceous
schists predominate, filled with cubes of bisulphuret of iron, many
of which were found among the detritus of the decomposing rock.
Rolled stones and pebbles of quartz and granite, imbedded in a
sedimentary rock forming a conglomerate, were also found, with
tufa. Upon the side of a large and singular mass of schistose rock,
with three large holes worn entirely through it by the disintegra-
tion of its softer particles, we found a cross cut into the stone, ap-
parently with a chisel. From the highest table of the island
rises an oblong rocky eminence, resembling, from some points of
view, ruins of an ancient castle, whence it had received from the
Mormons its name of «Castle Island.” Frémont called it « Dis-
appointment Island.’’ I deemed it but due, however, to the first
160 FREMONT ISLAND.
adventurous explorer of this distant region to name it after him
who first set foot upon its shores, and have therefore called it
Frémont Island. While putting up the station here, search was
made for the cover to the object end of his telescope, which he
states he had left on the summit of the island, but it could not be
found, having probably been buried in the detritus of the rapidly
decomposing rock upon which it had been left.
The island is fourteen miles in circumference, has neither tim-
ber nor water upon it, but its sides are covered with luxuriant
grass, and abound in prodigious quantities of the wild onion, wild
parsnip, and sego, (Calochortus luteus.) The latter is a small
bulbous root, about the size of a walnut, very palatable and
nutritious, and is much used by the Indian tribes as an article of
food. It abounds on hillsides and in stony ground in great
quantities. Near the summit of the island, the sage (Sarcobatus
vermicularis, nees,) grew in great profusion, and to an extraordi-
nary size, being frequently eight feet high and six or eight inches
in diameter. Could fresh water be obtained by boring, (and it is
worth the experiment,) a more admirable range than this for
sheep and goats could not be desired. Being surrounded by deep
water, the protection from wild beasts is absolute; an object in
this country of no small importance, where wolves abound in great
numbers. ‘The wild parsnip is already up several inches, and its
vivid green presents a cheerful contrast on the sunny slopes with
the snow-clad mountains which surround us. A single ground-
squirrel was seen; but how he got here, and where he obtained
water to sustain life, is somewhat of a mystery. In all our sub-
sequent examinations not the least indication of a spring was dis-
covered. Our men picked up quite a number of the eggs of the
blue heron, now just beginning to lay, in the tall grass along bb
shore.
In approaching the island from the water, it presented the ap-
pearance of regular beaches, bounded by what seemed to have
been well-defined and pene eey horizontal water-lines, at different
heights above each other, as if the water had settled at intervals
to a lower level, leaving the marks of its former elevation dis-
tinctly traced upon the hillside. This continued nearly to the
summit, and was most HEP aro on the north-eastern side of the
island.
On our return to camp, we spread our sails merrily to the breeze,
and although our boat was heavy and by no means a clipper, yet
EGG ISLAND—WATER-FOWL—CARRINGTON ISLAND. 161
we moved along in all the dignity and complaisance of a first-rate,
persuaded that no other craft of equal pretensions had ever floated
on the bosom of these solitary waters. After no little consulta-
tion, she was finally called «« The Salicornia,” or «Flower of Salt
Lake,’ which euphonious appellation the men very soon dispensed
with for the more homely but more convenient one of «The
Sally.” A small skiff had been procured as a consort to our
frigate, and after being fitted up and caulked, proved a very valu-
able addition to our marine.
Tuesday, April 9.—Morning very cool. Heavy blow all last _
night from the north. Senta team to the city for an additionaY
supply of provisions and equipage. Started with the boat and
nine men to explore and erect stations on the islands in the west-
ern portion of the lake, taking two days’ provisions and water, and
a blanket for each man.
Rounding the northern point of Antelope Island, we came to a
small rocky islet, about a mile west of it, which was destitute of
vegetation of any kind, not even a blade of grass being found upon
it. It was literally covered with wild waterfowl; ducks, white
brandt, blue herons, cormorants, and innumerable flocks of gulls,
which had congregated here to build their nests. We found great
nuthbers of these, built of sticks and rushes, in the crevices of the
rock, and supplied ourselves, without scruple, with as many eggs
as we needed, principally those of the herons, it being too early
in the season for most of the other waterfowl.
Having erected a station on this island, we started for another,
apparently about twenty miles to the westward.- The wind was
fresh, and we carried away the step of one of our masts in the blow.
The crew were all entirely unaccustomed to the water, and were
no little alarmed at the heavy swell caused by the gale, which was
much greater than I had anticipated, and made most of them quite
sea-sick. We arrived at the desired point without accident, and in
time to erect a station upon the summit of the island before dark.
The island was between six and seven hundred feet high, and six
and a-half miles in circumference. As we ascended the slope of
the hill, which is much more gentle than that of any other island
in the lake, small rolled stones, sand, and gravel are first met
with, then slate, covering the ground in broken laminez; and the
summit consisted of ledges of excellent roofing-slate, of which any
quantity can be obtained. The latter was filled in places with
cubes of bisulphuret of iron, which frequently penetrated several
11
162 CARRINGTON ISLAND—HAT ISLAND.
lamins. I searched diligently, but could find no cubes free, al-
though the rock was full of the small cavities from which they had
either been dislodged or had decayed under the influence of the
weather. Abundance of the slate can be procured free from this
objection; and by trial I ascertained that a nail could be driven
through the layers almost as easily as through a shingle. On the
shores were large quantities of a deposite resembling hard clay,
which had formed when soft upon the rolled stones of the beach,
and, when hardened by the sun or other causes, had been broken
off, retaining, like a hollow mould, the ‘shape of the stone upon
which it had been deposited. The island is surrounded by exten-
sive shoals. The beach is gradually making to the south, and will
doubtless join with the wide sand-flats to the south and west before
many years.
At sundown we returned to the beach, where we bivouacked on
some soft sand, partially protected from the searching wind by a
thick growth of grease-wood, which was abundant. Our fires were
plentifully supplied from the drift-wood piled up on the shore.
Wednesday, April 10.—Up by sunrise. Breakfast, cold fried
bacon, roasted heron’s eggs, and cold water. Morning cool—wind
from east, afterward shifted to north-east and north. Started for
a small island lying about five miles to the northward, to erect a
station upon it. We found it be a mere islet, one hundred feet in
height, and about a mile in ‘circumference, having a long, narrow
sand-spit running off from it in a south-east direction for a mile
and a-half. It is merely a pile of granitic conglomerate, with tufa
in large masses. Grease-wood seems to be the principal growth, and
the whole island abounds in the wild onion, now vividly green,
filling the air with its odour. Two species of cactus were also seen.
A cliff of slate rock occurred, preserving to a certain extent its
laminated structure, but so burned, altered, and filled with pebbles
as to be useless. The water, for a long distance around this islet,
is shallow, more especially to the westward.
Having completed the station at this point, we returned to Fré-
mont’s Island to cover the station there with cloth, so as to render
it visible from a distance. After a row of twelve mee we landed
on the south-west beach at noon. The water crossed was at first
quite shallow, but gradually deepened to eighteen, twenty-four,
twenty-seven, and thirty-three feet, and then moderately shoaled to
Frémont’s Island, being eighteen feet deep within a hundred yards
of the shore.
FREMONT ISLAND—MUD ISLAND. 1638
The west point of the island presents a bold escarpment, one
hundred feet in height, of talcose slate, overlaid by granite and
gneiss, occasionally traversed by seams of white ferruginous quartz,
and containing cubic crystals of iron pyrites. The ascent of
the southern slope of the island in this part is much more gra-
dual than from the western point where we first landed, and a
beautiful beach, covered with clear, white quartz pebbles, lined the
shore of a pretty little bay, now glistening in placid beauty under
the rays of the setting sun. The slope on this side presents the
same appearance of benches or lines of what must have been water
levels or beaches, parallel and horizontal, though apparently not
so near to each other as on the north side. Ledges of mica and
talcose slate crop out at different heights, with a dip to W. N. W. of
about 40°. The slate is soft, slightly unctuous: laminz regular,
parallel, and quite thin.
At some twenty feet above the water, I observed two protruding
ledges, in which, lying upon the slate, (which in this case was of a
much lighter colour than the rest,) was a dark-brown rock, much
vitrified, tinged with iron, and burned so hard that it sounded, when
struck, like delf-ware. It had, while in a state of fusion, flowed
around the neighbouring rocks, forming a sort of mould or casing
over them. These having perished by gradual disintegration,
have left the moulds connected, but empty. In this lava, quartz,
some white and some tinged with iron, is freely interspered; in ~
some of the moulds, occasionally seamed with the white quartz
veins, was a brown, hard sandstone, which, where exposed, was
rapidly disappearing. The vegetation on this side of the island
was similar to that on the other: the bunch-grass was especially
fine andabundant. After a long and fatiguing row, reached camp
at nine o’clock at night.
Thursday, April 11.—Morning bright and warm, with gentle
breeze from the south. Got under way early, for the purpose of
putting up a station on Mud Island, distant about eight miles. A
line of soundings was run until midway, when the boat grounded
on a shoal which extends quite to the northern extremity of
this part of the lake. The deepest water found on the line was
eleven and a-half feet. The skiff was sent ahead with an officer,
but it was soon left on the flat, and the party waded through soft
mud and water to the shore.
After dragging the large boat half a mile, a sufficiency of water
was found to float her, within a hundred and fifty yards of a point
164 LARVE OF INSECTS—SINGULAR FORMATIONS.
of rocks projecting from the mud-plain which surrounds the island.
In wading to the shore, we struggled through a deep, soft, dark-
coloured mass of what at first appeared to be ooze and slimy mud,
but which, upon examination, proved to consist almost solely of
the larve of insects lying upon the bottom, producing, when dis-
turbed, a most offensive and nauseous odour. The mass was more
than a foot in thickness and extended several yards from the shore.
A belt of soft, black mud, more than knee-deep, lay between the
water and the hard, rocky beach, and seemed to be impregnated
with all the villanous smells which nature’s laboratory was capa-
ble of producing.
The point where we had effected our landing was found to be
a protrusion of an isolated pile of metamorphic rock above the
vast mud-plain, which latter extended to the northward and east-
ward, without a shrub or a bush or a blade of grass to be seen
upon its surface. This protrusion consisted of various kinds of
rock, pushed up from beneath, with a dip to the west from nearly
perpendicular to 45°. Slate, almost vertical, was found lying side
by side with a dark rock filled with pebbles and stones as large as @
man’s head, consisting of what appeared to me to be granite altered
and burned by intense heat. This dark rock presented some indis-
_ tinct traces of a laminated structure, and may be slate very much
fused. Large boulders of granite and feldspar or quartz, with
scales of mica, lay strewn about, and I observed one with several
well-defined cubes of iron pyrites imbedded in it. The slate
seemed to be completely filled with pebbles and small broken frag-
ments of granite rock, with here and there a cube of iron pyrites.
Boulders of feldspathic rock, seamed with white quartz, and con-
taining thin veins of jasper of a brick-red colour, are occasionally
found in the slate. Near the western extremity of the point is a
different kind of rock—the direction nearly perpendicular. It is
of a more sandy structure, but is filled with the same pebbles.
The whole has been in a state of fusion.
The mud-flat, where above the level of the water, is thickly
covered with round, dark-coloured, circular cakes, precisely resem-
bling, in form, colour, and appearance, the excrement of cattle
dried in the sun. Underneath the dry surface of these cakes is a
soft, black, and sometimes greenish mud, which, when the cake is
moved by the foot, and the dry covering pushed aside, emits a
most fetid, sulphurous odour, poisoning all the surrounding air.
The substance of which these lumps are formed appears to have
ha
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iam
Spm pelea eae SS Sat saree oid
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ee ae
BEAR-RIVER BAY. 165
boiled up from beneath, through numerous small orifices in the
sand, and to have spread itself over the surface of the flat, in a
semifluid state, to the thickness of from half an inch to three
inches, with various diameters from three inches to a foot. The
exposed surface has been indurated slightly by the action of the
sun, and has formed a thin, tough, and slightly elastic covering or.
skin, which retains the substance within in a moist state for a long
time. By long exposure, these lumps seem to dry up entirely,
although, upon removing them, they are found still to be supplied
with moisture from the small orifice or tube in the centre beneath,
which latter apparently extends to a considerable depth in the
ground.
Having erected the station, we returned to camp, which we did
not reach until nearly midnight, all hands being completely worn
out by incessant labour of nearly eighteen hours at the oars, and
in wading through mud and water. The distance passed over
amounted to about thirty miles, and the exposure in the water, at
this early season, was peculiarly severe. The team from town,
with provisions, &c., returned in the afternoon.
Friday, April 12.—Broke up the camp on Antelope Island,
and started for the north end of the lake, to complete that portion
of the survey as early in the season as possible. It had already
been foreseen that one great obstacle to the rapid prosecution of
the work would be the want of fresh water, and means had accord-
ingly been provided for carrying in the boats as much as was pos-
sible. Such was the limited means of transportation, that a sup-
ply for more than two or three days could not be carried without
overloading the boats, already burdened with camp-equipage and
provisions. - Being uncertain of finding any water at our next
contemplated encampment, all the vessels were filled.
After passing Frémont’s Island, the water of the lake continued,
as on yesterday, very shallow, the deepest being six and a-half
feet. We were now in the Bear-River Bay, and the shallowness
of the water is no dotibt owing to the deposite of immense quanti-
ties of alluvion brought down by that river at every freshet, in a
state of suspension.
After coasting along the eastern slope of the promontory range,
which puts into the lake from the north, and seeking in vain for a
point at which to land, we were at length forced to drag the boat
to within a mile and a-half of the shore, where we left her stuck
fast in the mud. The tents, water, and provisions were placed in
166 ROCK-GATE CAMP.
the skiff and dragged as far as possible, when the whole had to be
packed upon our shoulders and carried to the shore, a distance of
rather more than half a mile, through a black, tenacious, and fetid
ooze, which rendered wading an excessively fatiguing task.
The camp was pitched in a wide rocky ravine, which had cut
entirely through the southern point of a low rocky peninsula, at
the foot of and parallel with the main promontory, and we gave
it the name of the «Rock Gate” camp.
The formation here was a compact, massive, blue limestone,
thickly and irregularly marked with close seams. Numerous
brackish and sulphur springs percolate from beneath the foot of
the cliffs, forming a black oozy mud, which filled the air with its
nauseous odour. Water was found in small quantities at the foot
of the mountains to the westward, half a mile distant; and wood
for cooking was furnished by the wild sage which grew in scattered
patches on the sides of the hills.
Tuesday, April 16.—The survey of Bear-River Bay had been
carried on by two parties; that on the eastern side being under
the command of Lieutenant Gunnison. In the afternoon a violent
storm came up suddenly from the westward, accompanied by thun-
der, and a gale which instantly prostrated our little encampment.
A copious fall of rain, mingled with hail, wetted my party to the
skin before reaching camp. The damage was soon repaired, and
the tents repitched amid rain, hail, and snow.
As the storm continued with unabated violence, I began to en-
tertain serious apprehensions for the other party, under Lieutenant
Gunnison, who were engaged on the flats on the eastern side of the
bay; lest, m the darkness, they should miss their way, and be
unable to return. At dusk a large signal-fire was built on the
hilltop, and guns were fired at intervals to attract their attention.
But the night passed without their appearing.
Karly the following morning they came into camp, covered from
head to foot with salt and mud, cold, wet, hungry, and thoroughly
exhausted. A more forlorn-looking group it has seldom been my
lot to behold. Anticipating their arrival in some such plight, I
had had an early breakfast prepared, with plenty of hot coffee; after
partaking of which, they were immediately wrapped in blankets,
and a sound sleep restored them to their accustomed strength.
The following extract from the journal of Lieutenant Gunnison
will give an idea of what they endured in the course of the night.
The storm overtook them in the midst of the extensive mud-flats
dV LIVS O°¢ oNdNVO HLINd AMOOU AUNV BONVY AMOLNONOUd NAEMLYAA AWTIVA
AN Atmpeoig EG) Yi] UbWAsyoy
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A NIGHT ON THE MUD-FLATS. 167
bordering the eastern side of the lake, without a bush or a shrub
to shelter them from its fury. Lieutenant Gunnison says—“ The
skiff was dragged for half a mile into three inches water, when the
wind suddenly shifted to the north, and blew a tremendous gale.
Our course was north, and we endeavoured to force our way with
four men wading by the sides of the boat, but the gale was too
powerful for them, and drove the whole company off the course, so
that by the time we were in one foot water, we were obliged to
stop ; the spray dashed over the boat in showers ; the rain and hail
came down in torrents; and soon all hands were drenched to the
skin. The mist shut down upon us, and we could only see a few
steps around. It was nearly sunset, and rapidly growing dark.
The men became bewildered, and despaired of reaching camp, de-
claring that they could not survive till morning. The snow began
to fall fast and the air to become more chilly and raw. Our
course was now completely lost, and it was rapidly becoming too
dark to read the compass much longer. We therefore determined
to turn back for the mud-flat from which we had started, so that
we might at least have solid ground upon which to pass the night.
After wading and dragging our boat for about a mile, we came
upon our trail of yesterday. The men becoming too stiff and
benumbed to proceed any farther, we managed to turn the skiff up
on its side, as a shelter from the piercing wind, and laying down
the oars and thwarts to keep us as much as possible out of the
mud, (which was about four inches deep,) we huddled together be-
hind it. In a couple of hours the wind lulled, the skiff was turned
again upon its bottom, the muddy boards arranged as a sort of
platform, and we prepared for our night’s lodging. I placed two
of the men edgewise on the bottom of the boat, and crawled in
alongside of them. The two extra men, (there were five of us,)
laid themselves down on the lower tier, taking care to break joints.
_ We had a bit of an old sail, which, in turning up the skiff, had
been well trampled in the mud, and was in rather a sorry condi-
tion. This we dragged over us as a covering from the snow, which
was falling fast. Although we were almost freezing, the heat from
our bodies was sufficient to melt it and cause it to trickle down
upon us, to our great discomfort.
«¢ About eleven o’clock, as nearly as we could judge, the snow
ceased to fall, ‘but the piercing wind howled over us till daylight.
Nearly frozen to death, we hailed the first streaks of day, and
jumped cheerfully into the icy mud, pushed our boat a couple of
168 MOVING CAMP—SEARCH FOR WATER.
miles, until the water was deep enough to float her, and in two
- hours found ourselves once more in camp, where Captain Stansbury
anxiously awaited us with dry clothes and a hot breakfast to re-
fresh us after our night’s adventure.”
Strange to say, no very serious consequences followed this night
of severe exposure. |
Preparations were now made for removing the camp to the south-
ward. The “Sally,” although empty, was found to be nearly high
and dry from the effects of last night’s norther; and it took all our
disposable force to shove her out some half mile into water deep
enough to float her. The baggage was then carried out to the skiff,
which was hauled and pushed out to the larger boat, then lying
nearly two miles off. The water was very cold, and the chilling
wind swept down from the Wahsatch Mountains, which were in many
places covered with snow nearly to their base.
We coasted along the promontory, as near to the shore as the depth
of the water would permit, which was generally within a mile or
more, until the afternoon, when we again grounded on an extensive
shoal, and were occupied a couple of hours in dragging the boat
over it. A small party, in the mean time, waded to the main
shore to search for fresh water, evidences of which had been dis-
covered from the boats. After several ineffectual attempts to land,
we bore away for Frémont’s Island, which we reached about nine
o'clock, enlightened by the rays of a young moon. A large fire
from drift-wood soon illumined the beach and rocky cliffs. Fried
bacon, hard bread, and a single gallon of coffee constituted our
supper, no water having been procured during the day, and our
supply having been reduced to that quantity. The men being very
tired with rowing and wading in the cold wind and water since
sunrise, only a single tent was pitched, which was assigned to
Lieutenant Gunnison, who had had quite enough of “«lying-out”’
the night previous, and was somewhat unwell in consequence. The
rest of us made a spacious and airy bedchamber of’the open
canopy of heaven. ‘The wind freshened during the night, and
rolled in a heavy sea upon the rock-bound shore; and the roar of
the waves, as they dashed against it, reverberated among the cliffs
like thunder, reminding some of us of scenes far, far away, where
more mighty billows paid their unceasing tribute to the strand.
_ Thursday, April 18.—There not being a drop of water in camp,
we got under way without breakfast, and made for a cove just
east of the southern extremity of the promontory, where appear-
Ackerman Lyin. 278. Broadway NY-
LAKE.
SALT
GREAT
PROUNOUNTORY Orr
1
4. NEAR
N°?
CAMP
CLIFF OF ALUM SLATE. 169
ances promised a chance of landing. The water was bold to within
three or four boats’-length of the pebbly shore, but the men were
obliged to get into the water and carry the baggage to land, and
thence nearly a quarter of a mile to the foot of the mountain, be-
fore finding ground upon which to encamp. Several of them were
quite unwell from previous exposure, and all were jaded, stiff, and
sore.
The nearest water was two miles distant, and had to be carried
in India-rubber bags and kegs upon the shoulders. No breakfast
was to be had until near noon, and the remainder of the day was
devoted to rest and to drying our clothing and bedding. The sun
was bright for most of the day, but the wind was keen and cold.
The presence or absence of the sun in this climate has a marked
influence upon the temperature. The day may be oppressively
warm, but as soon as the sun disappears behind the western moun-
tains, a fire is indispensable to comfort. The morning early may
be very cold, but soon after the appearance of the sun, cloth coats
become uncomfortable. Should the sun become overclouded for
any length of time, they are resumed. | |
Segos are here very abundant, and of a large size, and are found
in every tuft of bunch-grass. In the vicinity, a cliff was discovered
of alum slate, nearly a mile in length, and about sixty feet in
height above the lake. It iy traversed by several dikes of
trap, with cubical crystals of iron pyrites, and by one dike of
quartz rock. The slate contains numerous veins of very pure
fibrous alum. Between this cliff and Promontory Point there
occur strata of mica slate, fine grindstone-grit, sandstone, and
albite.
Friday, April 19.—Rain during the night. Morning wet, cold,
and raw. Nevertheless, we started in the boat for a large island
west of Antelope Island, which the officers of the party had done
me the honour to call by my name. After erecting a station upon
its northern point, it was my intention to proceed to Black Rock,
a large isolated rock on the southern shore of the lake, midway
between the two islands, to erect a station upon it: thence I de-
signed to accompany Lieutenant Gunnison to town, and fit out a
party, to be placed under his command, for the survey of the east-
ern shore of the lake, as well as of that part of the valley lying
between it and the foot of the Wahsatch range. It rained and
snowed several times in the course of the morning, and the day
was very cold and unpleasant. We erected the station upon a pro-
170 . BLACK ROCK.
minence of the northern extremity of the mountain ridge form-
ing the island, and encamped upon the white-sand beach of a
lovely little bay indenting its eastern shore.
The whole of this part of the ridge consists of large masses of
quartzose and sandstone rock, variously tinged with oxide of iron,
and conglomerates. Heavy squall, with rain and snow, during
the night. Having provided ourselves with only a single keg of
water, in expectation of finding some during the day, we discovered
before night that it was nearly exhausted; so all hands were put
upon short allowance, and a very small cup of coffee was served
out for supper. ‘There was no discontent, however, though all
went to their blankets almost famished for water, and fervently
hoping we might find a supply early in the morning.
Saturday, April 20.—A fresh gale was blowing from the north-
west, which continued to increase during the day. The wind was
excessively cold, and the men were obliged to wrap themselves in
buffalo-skins to keep warm. Setting the foresail, we ran to Black
Rock, a distance of more than twenty miles, in a little more than
three hours. A station was framed from timbers which had been
previously cut in the mountains and hauled to the spot for the
purpose; but the force of the party was not sufficient to raise it.
Orders were sent to the herdsmen in Tuilla Valley, near by, to
bring a team in the morning, to transport Lieutenant Gunnison’s
party to the city. A beef was killed and divided between the
companies. The herd was also directed to be removed from
Tuilla Valley to Antelope Island for the season.
The station was raised the following day, and we started for the
city, leaving the boat’s crew encamped on the shore of the lake.
The interval, until the 25th, was employed in fitting out the party
destined for the survey of the eastern shore of the lake, which
being completed, I rejoined my people at Black Rock.
Friday, April 26.—A violent blow from the north prevented
our moving before the afternoon; but, just before sundown, the
wind having lulled, we loaded the boat and started for Promontory
Point, where the camp had been left under charge of Mr. Carring-
ton. A southerly breeze struck us about dark, and continued all
night. The weather was clear, but extremely cold. None of my
crew had the least knowledge of managing a boat, and I was
therefore always obliged to take the helm myself whenever the
sails were set. As the wind had now become fair, and there was
no necessity for rowing, each man wrapped himself in his blanket,
“UNW'TS
SLNOWAHA NO
WAWO
LAKE-WATER A PRESERVATIVE OF MEATS. 171
and sought repose in the bottom of the boat, while I guided our
little craft during the night, until, at the break of day, I sank
down, benumbed by the cold and overcome by the fatigues of the
preceding day, followed by an incessant watch of more than twelve
hours. We were, however, not far from our encampment, hav-
ing run during the night nearly thirty miles.
The party under Mr. Carrington returned to the camp in the
afternoon from Frémont’s Island, having completed its detailed
survey during my absence. They were almost famished for water,
and had «laid out,” or bivouacked, for four successive nights.
The fresh provisions and vegetables I brought with me were received
with much satisfaction. i
Before leaving Black Rock, I made an experiment upon the
properties of the water of the lake for preserving meat. A large
piece of fresh beef was suspended by a cord and immersed in the
lake for rather more than twelve hours, when it was found to be
tolerably well corned. After this, all the beef we wished to pre-
serve while operating upon the lake, was packed into barrels with-
out any salt whatever, and the vessels were then filled up with the
lake-water. No further care or preparation was necessary; and
the meat kept perfectly sweet, although constantly exposed to the
sun. I have no doubt that meats put up in this water would
remain sound and good as long as if prepared after the most ap-
proved methods. Indeed, we were obliged to mix fresh water with
this natural brine, to prevent our meat from becoming too salt for
present use—a very few days’ immersion changing its character
from corned beef to what the sailors call « salt junk.”
Monday, April 29.—Moving camp from Promonotory Point.
The morning was bright and clear, but the wind blew a gale from
the west, by which the boats, being deeply laden, were so much
retarded that with all our exertion we could not get farther than
seven miles around the western side of the Promontory, when, to
avoid being driven ashore by thé violence of the gale, we were
obliged to land and encamp for the night. The baggage, as usual,
had to be carried about half a mile to obtain ground upon which
to pitch the tents. This was found under a high cliff of quartzcse
rock, with masses among the detritus of nearly pure feldspar.
In the cliff was quite a large cave, which had been used as a
shelter by Indians—the marks of their fires being still visible
within it. Our men took possession of it, built a large fire, and
consoled themselves for the fatigues of the day with a dance to
172 FLAT-ROCK POINT.
the strains of one of the most execrable fiddles I ever listened to
anywhere.
The water all the way from Promontory Point is very shallow
for a long distance from the shore, which is generally sandy, with
pebbles; the detritus from the range being mainly quartzose pud-
ding-stone, hornblende, quartz, and granite. |
Tuesday, April 30.—Moved camp again to-day in search of
the springs of water I had passed on horseback in October last.
The day was calm and warm, and the atmosphere balmy and de-
lightful. In the course of the morning we descried from the
boats a patch of reeds on the shore, which our experience had
taught us to be an indication of fresh water. We accordingly
landed, and found some very indifferent brackish water by digging.
Fearful lest we should obtain none better, we filled our vessels and
embarked. Crossing a shallow reef of flat rocks, extending from
the shore for several miles, we struck at once into deep water—
the southern extremity of a large bay with a bold shore, encircled
by high and picturesque mountains. The water was twenty feet
in depth, and gradually increased to thirty feet, which continued
to a projecting rocky point, crossed by a well-defined Indian trail.
Near the extremity of the spur is a remarkable cliff, or projection,
which towers above the surrounding mountains, forming a promi-
nent and impressive feature in a landscape full of wild and peculiar
beauty.
- The ridge of which this formed the apex is composed of black,
blue, and ash-coloured limestone of a very close texture, seamed in
all directions by small veins of white carbonate of lime, producing
avery pretty appearance. It would make beautiful mantels and
tops for tables, could it be quarried in slabs of sufficient size.
- Calcareous tufa is forming in large quantities near the base of the
mountain. The hillsides contain numerous caves, some of which
are of considerable size. Stretching off from the point to the
‘ south-west is a ledge of flat sandstone rock, lying in from one to
two feet water, which makes a large shoal in that direction. The
lower portion of the point itself, extending from the base of the
cliff, is also of this rock, lying horizontally about two feet above
the level of the water. From the prevalence of this rock here we
called it Plat-rock Point. Rounding the prominence, the boat
was run into a little rocky cove, and the camp pitched in a thicket
of grease- -wood and artemisia, just above the storm-hne of the lake—
which is here very determinate. |
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VIEW OF PART(OF THE WESTERN SLOPE OF PROMONTGRY RANGE. GREAT SALT LAKE
ROCK ABBEY—INDIAN SPRINGS. 178
To the north, the rugged and rocky eminences gradually recede
from the shore; to which, a few miles farther on, they again return
in a superb semicircular sweep; forming a landscape in the highest
degree picturesque and beautiful, to which nothing is wanting but
trees. In the centre of the arc a fantastic mass of rock reared
its gigantic outline against the sky, presenting from the camp a
striking resemblance to an old ruined abbey, glowing and glisten-
ing in the rays of the setting sun.
Immediately behind us rose a rounded knob, some two hundred
feet in height, composed of one solid limestone rock, in the cre-
vices of which grew, in graceful luxuriance, the everlasting bunch-
grass, so characteristic of this region. Upon the shore, among
the boulders with which it was thickly strewn, I obtained some
fine specimens of dark compact limestone, containing well-defined
fossils of Cyathophyllum and Strepletasma.
The shore party reached camp about dark. They reported find-
ing abundance of the finest water at the head of the bay we had
crossed to-day, which was easy of access. This was joyful news,
as the water we were using was very brackish and nauseous—so
much so as to impart a most disagreeable flavour to the strongest
coffee.
Wednesday, May 1.—The survey of the shore-line being in
arrears some miles, I availed myself of the opportunity to overhaul
the large boat, which was a miserable, lumbering affair, and make
such alterations in her as would admit of more convenient and
expeditious stowage of the baggage. This having been accom-
plished, I started in her for the watering-place. After rounding
Flat-rock Point, the water was bold and deep to within a boat’s
length of the shore opposite the springs. I at once recognised
the spot as being the same passed by me on horseback during my
reconnoissance of the previous October.
Several springs here gush out, fresh, clear, cold, and convenient
to the shore. As I anticipated the necessity of feernn: visits to
this spot, for a supply of water for the party when engaged on the
western side of the lake, all hands were at once set to work to run
out a pier of stones, alongside of which the boat could lie without
danger. This was soon done; some of the springs were cleared out
and deepened, and the casks filled, when we returned to camp with,
_a fine fresh breeze. In our progress we passed innumerable flocks
of young ducks, which upon our approach dived beneath the sur-
face and disappeared. The gnats have at this camp been almost
174 SHOSHONEE INDIANS—SPRINGS.
insufferable during the day, settling on the forehead and ears, get-
ting into the eyes and hair, producing pain and irritation by their
bite, and rendering the manipulation of instruments extremely diff-
cult under the tormenting infliction. Fortunately, they always
disappear upon the going down of the sun, affording a grateful re-
lief from their annoying attacks.
The following day we attempted to move camp, but after getting
under way, the wind blew so hard that we could make but little
progress, and were at length obliged to come-to on a sandbar only
two miles from our morning encampment, and to carry our camp
to land upon our shoulders. Here we met three Shoshonee Indians
on horseback, who had been watching our motions for some time.
They belonged to a small lodge encamped among the hills a few
miles to the northward. They seemed friendly, and expressed
much curiosity at the size of the boat, and by signs informed me
that they would very much like to borrow it, to pay a visit to the
islands in the lake, some of which they gave me to understand
they had never reached. Indeed, I doubt if they had ever placed
a canoe upon the waters. We saw no sign of any thing of the
kind, even upon Utah Lake, although its waters abound with the
finest fish. A hearty supper, which they devoured as if they never
expected to get another, sent them away delighted with their
Visit.
In wandering among the artemisia, to-day, I was struck at by a
most villanous-looking adder, rather more than two feet in length,
and was very near being bitten. It was the first snake I had seen
in the country, and I think we only saw one other—a rattle snake
—while we were upon the lake.
Friday, May 3.—In about two miles we came upon a number
of fine springs, near to which I had encamped last fall. The
water then was brackish and bad; but now, owing to the supply
from melting snows in the mountains, it was fresh, soft, and delight- —
ful. The springs were beautifully clear, and situated amid a large
growth of reeds—an invariable indication, here, of fresh water.
The one from which we obtained our supply was about fifteen feet
long, ten feet wide, and four deep, with overhanging banks of sod. —
Some curious insects inhabited it, several of which were caught
and preserved.
The adjacent hills are composed of gray limestone, overlying
the same kind of black marble as that seen at Flatrock Poit.
SILK PLANT—-SPRING BAY. 175
Both are of a very close texture, and would make excellent build-
ing-stone.
Around the springs was found, growing in considerable quantity,
a plant I had not before seen—called by some of the men sik-
plant. It somewhat resembles the sumac in appearance, and has
at its top a cluster of long slender pods, which, when ripe, split
open longitudinally, disclosing a number of seeds, each attached
to a fascicle of long silky fibres, resembling very fine threads of
spun glass. The bark is tough, strong, and very much like that
of flax. The root and the plant, when broken, exudes a milky
viscous substance—that from the root is intensely bitter. The
Ottoes and Omahas make lariats of the bark, which are said to be
stronger and better than those made of hide. It is said to grow
abundantly near Council Bluffs, in Missouri. My Frenchman
called it vache @ lait. The Mexican negro cook calls it capote
des acarte. He says that the Pueblo Indians call it noche. They
cut it down when ripe, rub it so as to separate the fibres, and make
of it beautiful and very strong fishing-lines and fine sewing-thread.
They also use a decoction of the root for medicinal purposes—the
root itself is put into liquor to make bitters.
Beyond these springs the lake makes a wide, deep bay, stretch-
ing far to the northward, near the head of which the promontory
range bounding it on the east seems to sink away. On the west,
the bay is bounded by a low range of rocky hills, stretching to the
north. Between these hills the country is much lower, and ascends
northwardly, by a gentle rise, to a belt of low hills far off in the
distance; over which, farther to the north-west, is seen a range
of snow-capped mountains.
Starting from the springs with the boats, we attempted to make
our way to the point where the eastern range seemed to terminate ;
but found the water so shallow that it was impracticable. After
many fruitless attempts, the boat was brought as near the shore
as possible, part of the baggage loaded into the skiff, and pushed
toward the land. It was impossible, however, to bring even this
light barque nearer than within a quarter of a mile of the beach,
and the luggage was transported to shore on our shoulders. On
landing, we found ourselves on the margin of an immense flat of
sand, destitute of the least sign of vegetation, and only a few
inches above the level of the water, which covers a large portion
of it whenever a fresh wind prevails from the south. It stretches
across the head of the bay from near the springs to the southern
176 CAMP ON THE SANDFLATS.
point of the western promontory, and doubtless at one time formed
the northern boundary of the lake in this direction.
At the point where we landed, it was upward of a mile in breadth.
There being no wood to be obtained for cooking purposes nearer
than the foot of the mountains, all hands were despatched to gather
and pack upon their shoulders sufficient for that purpose; and the
camp was pitched upon the naked sand. ‘The land party came in
at sundown from the line of survey, which had been carried to the
point of the mountain at the head of the bay. They reported the
discovery there of some springs with a small supply of good fresh
water and abundance of excellent grass.
Saturday, May 4.—Morning calm, bright, and balmy. De-
spatched most of the hands to the springs found yesterday, for
water, which they brought on their shoulders to the boat—a dis-
tance of over two miles. On their return, we packed the baggage
in the skiff, and dragged it about half a mile to the boat. After
much difficulty, we extricated ourselves from the shoals, and made
for the south point of the range forming the western boundary
of the bay. At this point the water is deep, quite to the shore,
which is iron-bound by boulders of black rock from the surround-
ing hills. A small ledge or reef of rock was seen above water
some three hundred yards to the south. Rounding the point of
this little promontory, we encamped on a small bluff, a short dis-
tance from the edge of the water.
The hillsides are covered with broken masses of a very dark-
coloured rock, containmg much iron, and which, from its peculiar
tint, as we approached them from the water, gave the slopes the
appearance of being covered with a forest of cedar. ‘These rocks
we found, upon landing, to consist of a dark compact limestone,
stained, and in many cases apparently vitrified, on the surface by
iron. The top of the ridge, which is three or four hundred feet
above the water, is crowned by a stratum of light cream-coloured
limestone, in a cliff thirty feet in height. All the varieties are
of a close texture, and very hard, especially the white, which will,
I think, quarry easily. If so, it will be quite valuable, as the
shores at this point being accessible for boats, a continuous navi-
gation is practicable to Black Rock, at the southern end of the
lake, whence the land-carriage to the city is only twenty miles.
Small quantities of bitumen were found on the shore, in the
masses of a substance which lined the beach to the depth of six
inches, and resembled in appearance the brown, dried seaweed
LARVA OF INSECTS. 177
of the ocean. Under the magnifying glass, these masses were
found to consist almost entirely of the larvee or dried skins of a
dipterous insect, adhering together. They had apparently been
driven upon the shore at different periods; some appearing fresher
and of a different texture from others, the insects having been of
a larger size. The question where these larve originated presents
a curious subject of inquiry. Nothing living has as yet been
detected in the lake, and only a few large insects in the brackish
springs, which do not at all resemble these remains either in shape
or size. That they have existed in almost incredible numbers is
evident, as the shores are lined with their skins, and the bottom,
in many instances, for a long distance out from the shores, is covered
with them. ‘This is especially the case in the north-east part of
the lake, where they lie on the bottom a foot thick, mingled with
the oozy mud, of which they form a large proportion. Yesterday
I observed from the shore several dark patches far out in the lake,
apparently of dull reddish water, looking very much like large
shoals. Upon rowing over some of them, however, I found that
this change in the colour of the water, here very shallow, was not
occasioned by any marked difference in the depth, but from the
bottom being covered with these larve, which the oars raised at
every stroke, rendering the water turbid and offensive. Some of
the deposites were very large, and must have covered many hun-
dred acres.
Monday, May 6.—Morning clear and warm. About a mile to
the westward of camp the forces of the land and water party were
unitéd, to erect a triangulation station upon a high, rocky knob,
near the southern extremity of the range, commanding a view to
the south and west. ‘The distance from the water was about a
mile, and the elevation of the station about six hundred feet.
Some long sticks were selected from a pile of drift-wood on the
beach, and transported on the shoulders of the men, over very
rocky, ascending ground, covered with large boulders of a close-
grained, compact limestone. The labour was very great, and was
much enhanced by the annoyance of swarms of gnats. They have
become an intolerable nuisance. Our faces and hands are covered
with scars and blotches from the incessant irritation occasioned by
their bites. . :
Having erected the station, we proceeded along the shore in
search of a camping-place, which was found just south of a little
rocky: butte, having in front of it the first well-defined reef I had
12
178 HORNED FROGS—SAND OF THE LAKE SHORE.
yet seen. Leaving the baggage on the camp-ground, I followed
up the shore in search of water, and happily, in little more than
a mile, found an abundant supply and very good, in some small
ponds, formed by the snow and spring rains, which are, however,
dry in the summer. ‘This was a fortunate circumstance, as, other-
wise, we should have been obliged to cross the lake during the night
to the springs on the western side of the main promontory, as our
supply was by this time reduced to half a barrel.
Several horned frogs were found to-day running upon the shores.
The sand which forms the beach in this vicinity is worthy of re-
mark. Under a magnifier it is found to consist of rounded glo-
bules, chiefly of calcareous rock, worn doubtless by attrition into
their present form, not an angular particle being found among them.
It is variegated by different and brilliant colours, and reminded
me of the sand I had once seen which was brought from the Great
Desert of Zahara. Its conformation makes it very fatiguing to
walk in, presenting no firm resistance to the foot, but yielding at
every step. A piece of bitumen was found buried in the sand,
which had adhered to it when softened by the sun, and completely
frosted it over, so that it very much resembled one of the small
chocolate lozenges of the shops, covered with miniature sugar-
plums. :
Tuesday, May T.—After moving camp some few miles above,
started for an island in the lake, apparently fifteen or twenty miles
to the southward, to place a triangulation station upon it. The
wind had been southerly during the night, and had raised such a
sea that I found it impossible to force the boat through the water,
whose ponderous waves struck upon our bows with a power that
was irresistible. After rowing some eight miles, we gave it up
and returned to camp. ;
One of the party, in attempting to cut across the country to-day,
got lost, and as he did not return by dark, signal-fires were lighted
upon one or two of the neighbouring eminences to guide him to
camp. He returned by bedtime, very much exhausted by his wan-
derings, having been without food or water since sunrise.
Wednesday, May 8.—The day being calm and the water smooth,
renewed the attempt made yesterday to reach the island to the
southward, taking with us blankets, provisions, and water, prepared
to encamp upon it, if necessary. We reached the island after a
row of four hours. The water.was bold and deep nearly the whole
AN Aeepeodg 616 4" the
UBLILIOyoWy
GUNNISON’S ISLAND—-GULLS AND PELICANS. 179
-distance—fifteen, seventeen, and twenty feet; and ten feet, within
a hundred and fifty feet of the shore.
_ There are two islands here, one of them quite small, and lying
within one hundred yards to the northward of the larger one, of
which it has.at one time formed a part. We landed at the head
of a beautiful little sandy bay, on the eastern side, which has its
counterpart on the western, the two being separated by a low,
_narrow neck of land, forming a delightful little nook, and separat-
ing the lofty pile of rock forming the northern part of the island
from the rocky cliffs which extend to its southern extremity.
The whole neck and the shores on both of the little bays were
occupied by immense flocks of pelicans and gulls, disturbed now for
the first time, probably, by the intrusion of man. They literally
darkened the air as they rose upon the wing, and, hovering over
our heads, caused the surrounding rocks to re-echo with their dis-
cordant screams. The ground was thickly strewn with their nests,
of which there must have been some thousands. Numerous young,
unfledged pelicans, were found in the nests on the ground, and
hundreds half-grown, huddled together in groups near the water,
while the old ones retired to a long line of sand-beach on the
southern side of the bay, where they stood drawn up, like Prussian
soldiers, in ranks three or four deep, for hours together, apparently
without motion.
A full-grown one was surprised and captured by the men, just
as he was rising from the ground, and hurried in triumph to the
beach. He was very indignant at the unceremonious manner in
which he was treated, and snapped furiously with his long bill to
the right and left at everybody that came near him. On the top
of his bill, about midway of its length, was a projection about an
inch long and half an inch high, resembling the old-fashioned sight
of a rifle: in the female this is wanting. We collected as many
eggs as we could carry. That of the gull is of the size of a hen’s
egg, brown and spotted; that of the pelican is white, and about as
large as a goose egg. The white of the latter, when cooked, is
translucent, and resembles clear blanc-mange.
After much searching, we found among the scanty drift-wood
along the beach, two indifferent sticks with which to build a station.
We set them up on the highest peak of the island, at its northern
extremity, where a nearly perpendicular cliff of dark-gray limestone
rises from the water to the height of five hundred feet.
It was a work of great fatigue to transport these heavy timbers
180 NORTH END OF THE LAKE.
over a rough, and in many places almost impassable cliff, to the top
of this towering peak; and we were no little rejoiced when it was
accomplished.
Having built our station, we set out on our return to camp, with
a fair wind, which, however, soon died away, and the tired crew
were obliged to take to their oars. When within two or three miles
of camp, a most furious gale of wind suddenly broke down upon us
from the north-west, which soon raised such a sea as rendered the
progress of our heavy boat so slow that we did not reach home
until ten o’clock, wearied, cold, and hungry. But hot coffee soon
restored us, and we enjoyed a deep and most welcome slumber.
Friday, May 10.—Moved again to-day, with the intention of
encamping at the head of this arm of the lake, but the water be-
came so shallow that not even the skiff would float, and we had to
resort to the usual process of transporting beds and baggage on our
backs to the shore. Here we found that we had still half a mile
farther to go to reach the nearest artemisia-bushes, which have now
become our sole dependence for firewood. The bushes afforded us,
it is true, the means of making fire for cooking, but at the same
time they gave shelter to shoals of gnats, that drove us almost dis-
tracted.
We are now near the head of the northern extremity of the
lake, and expect soon to turn our faces to the south, along its
western shore. The character of the country has changed some-
what: the hills in the vicinity of the lake have become lower, and
abound less in rocks, although the projecting points still consist
of that material. Range behind range is seen to the westward
across the water, while to the northward the ridges seem to be at
first low, but rising in the distance, one above the other, like the
seats of an amphitheatre. The following day we erected a large
Station on a hill south of the camp.
The two last nights we have been regaled by the varied notes
of a little brown bird, the only songster I had yet heard in the ©
valley. It sang all night; but I in vain attempted to secure it as
a specimen. A couple of blackbirds, also, hung around the camp,
and enlivened us with an occasional note. Abundance of a fine
small pepper-grass grew in the sandy soil, which, in the absence
_ of other vegetables, was very refreshing.
Monday, May 13.—Finding it impossible for the boats to ad-
vance any farther north, on account of the extensive flats occupy-
Ing the whole of this end of the lake, I determined to cross to the
MOVING CAMP—TURRET ROCK. 181
western side, leaving the shore party to follow the old storm-line,
or that indicating the ancient limits of the water.
A small station was put up upon a little rocky projection just
north of the camp, which had to be constructed of stone, filled in
with earth, as no timber of any kind could be procured for the
purpose. A fewslender poles of drift-wood were gathered, erect-
ed into a small lodge on the top of the mound, and covered over
with white cloth. The camp was broken up, and every thing being
loaded into the boats, the customary process of wading com-
menced.
This mode of moving was one of the most disagreeable and
onerous of our duties. The boat was nearly two miles from the
camp, and the men made their way through a soft, tenacious blue
clay, ankle deep, and exposed to the insufferable annoyance of
myriads of gnats, which the occupation of both hands in grasping
the burden did not allow them to repel; and although, after get-
ting out upon the water, we left for a time our inveterate little
enemies behind, it was with the knowledge that the same torment
must be again encountered on our next approach to land. In cross-
ing we were repeatedly driven to the southward by the shallow-
ness of the water; and, upon at length reaching the shore, we
found, to our dismay, that an extensive flat of sand still lay be-
tween us and the line of grass and bushes where alone we could
obtain fuel for cooking. Over this the camp was carried upon
weary shoulders, and pitched among some artemisia, near “ Turret
Rock,” as we named a large pinnacle toward which we had direct-
ed our course in the morning, and which had frequently before
attracted: our notice.
The soil, after passing the flat, is a hard yellow clay, with some
pepper-grass—its only production. We here found a large hole
that had been dug by the wolves. It was full of brackish water,
which, although unfit to drink, was sufficiently good for mixing
bread and for cooking generally. We had learned, by dire ex-
perience, not to despise any water, however indifferent, as we did
not know at what period we might be reduced to its exclusive use.
The place had long been a resort for the few Indians that occa~
sionally pass through this inhospitable region. Remains of old
lodges constructed of sage-bush, beds of the same, collected under
the cover of projecting ledges of rock and little caves in the cliff,
together with a well-defined horse-trail, showed that this had been a
favourite camp-ground. The trail came from the south-west, and led
182 SAND-FLATS—NORTH END OF THE LAKE.
to the northward, probably to the more favoured region of the Pan-
nack and the Port Neuf.
The shore party did not reach camp until nearly ten o’clock
to-night, having been obliged to cross the extensive flat, some six
or eight miles wide, after the termination of a day’s work of seven
miles of chain-line. They describe the country over which they
have passed to-day as a mud-flat, studded with slight elevations,
like islands, six or eight feet high, and covered with grease-wood
and artemisia. One single stream was passed, four feet wide and
one in depth, with gravelly bottom, the water of which was drink-
able. ‘The rest was one barren, dreary waste, over which the
water of the lake had at one time flowed, and its gradual reces-
sion. had left behind it nothing but solitude and desolation.
Tuesday, May 14.—Engaged all this day in erecting two tri-
angulation stations; one upon a projecting peak west of Turret
Rock, and another upon a high rocky cliff, about a mile north of
the camp. As no timber could be obtained within twenty miles,
both of these stations were constructed wholly of stone, laid up in
a conical form, upon the highest point of their respective peaks,
and covered with white cotton. This was a work of great labour,
as the stone was difficult to be obtained, and had to be laid with
great care to enable the station to resist the force of the violent
winds to which it would be exposed. I added to-day the accom-
plishment of laying stone-wall to my numerous other avocations,
and returned to camp thoroughly wearied, and with the skin of
my hands nearly worn through.
The rock upon which the higher station was erected is part of a
ridge coming from the north, and terminating at this point in a
bold, rugged escarpment, commanding an extensive view to the
southward and westward. It consisted of a light-gray limestone,
very friable, and rapidly disintegrating. The rocks in the vicinity
are completely covered over with a casing of tufa, which has formed
upon them, adapting itself to all their irregularities. It is very
hard, and as the limestone underneath is constantly crumbling
away from it, numerous caves are forming, the roof and sides of
which consist of the tufa alone. The covering is from four to six
inches thick. In one spot I found the rock for a small space
thinly veneered with jade. Some broken specimens of Indian
pottery were found at this camp, and also some pieces of obsidian.
The latter, probably, had been procured elsewhere by the pebble
for ene arrow-heads. .
SURVEY OF THE WESTERN SHORE. 183
The pelican captured upon Gunnison’s Island was consigned to
the kettle to-day, and boiled, for the purpose of preserving his
skeleton. We had not been able to induce him to eat or drink a
morsel, so that, finding he would starve to death, I had, a few days
before, set him at liberty. He followed the boats for a long dis-
tance, but we lost sight of him, and the next morning he was found
dead upon the shore. I had made some little progress in taming
the fierceness of his nature. He would suffer me to assist him in ~
pluming his feathers; but to all others he was sullen and intract-
able, snapping violently at every one who approached him.
Thursday, May 16.—We are now to turn our faces to the south-
ward, and to explore the western shore of this solitary sea. From
the most elevated points the prospect before us was dreary and
discouraging. ‘To the south, as far as the eye could reach, lay a
plain of arid white sand, stretching many miles westward to a lofty
range of mountains, which had, no doubt, ages ago, formed the
barrier to the waters in that direction. A high and rocky hill rose
occasionally from this level flat, like an island from the sea, while
the scene was here and there relieved by patches of green arte-
misia—which alone flourished in this inhospitable region. The
uncertainty of finding water was the only question which caused
the least apprehension in encountering this desert of sand. Labour
and fatigue all were willing to undergo; but, without water, it was
impossible to live. We, however, determined to venture; knowing
that, at the worst, we could procure a sufficient supply by crossing
to the eastern shore of the lake.
The shore party was provided with as many canteens as were
to be found, and we commenced to move the camp; previously
establishing a system of signals, by which they might be enabled
to find our rendezvous at night. The wading operation had to be
undergone as usual, and by noon we were fairly under way. Two
long sandspits, or bars, had to be doubled before we could hope
to reach any point that would be near the shore party at the ter-
mination of their day’s work. This was finally accomplished by
-dint of dragging and wading, and we at length turned in to what,
from the boat, we supposed to be the shore. But when within
something less than a mile of it, the boat again grounded, and the
usual consequences followed. When we reached the beach, before
us lay a boundless flat of white sand, only a few inches above the
water-level of the lake. A line of artemisia-bushes appeared to be
about half a mile distant, and we bent our steps toward it for the
184. WESTERN SHORE OF THE LAKE.
purpose of encamping. But the mirage was so great that we
found oursélves much deceived in the distance. Instead of half a
mile, the bushes were more than two miles off; and after travel-
ling upward of a mile, I concluded to encamp where we were, and
to go to the fringe of green for wood enough to cook with.
This was accordingly done, and in our search we stumbled on two
very pretty little streams of fresh, cool water, within a half-mile
of the camp, but which, after flowing a short distance, sank in
the sand and disappeared. Upon the banks of one of the creeks
was a patch of long, dry, matted grass, which had been beaten
down by the winter snows. ‘To this I set fire, as a signal to the
shore party of our whereabouts. A huge column of smoke imme-
diately rose to the heavens, and completely answered the purpose.
The party, nevertheless, did not get into camp before ten o’clock
at, night, having been perplexed in the dark by salt creeks and
marshes. There was but little joking or music in camp to-night,
as the unwearied fiddle had been left in the boat, and the men were
thoroughly tired out.
The shore party, to-day, in running their line, crossed several
quite large streams of good fresh water; and upon the termination
of the day’s work, came upon one, eighty feet wide and ten feet
deep, by measurement, and flowing with a full current. All of
these spring-branches burst forth on the old storm-line of the lake,
but none of them ever enter it. They doubtless take their rise in
the mountains to the north and north-west, and percolating through
the sands, or passing in veins underneath the surface, break forth
suddenly into bold streams, with abundance of water, which in a
short distance fork and spread out into shallow channels, form a
sort of marsh, and are finally altogether absorbed by the sand,
long before they reach the lake. In the channels, and on the
margin of the streams, grow reeds, dagger-grass, and some. cat-
tail flags. Numerous insects congregate in the brackish waters of
the marshes, affording food for plover, gulls, and innumerable
waterfowl. These streams afforded the last fresh water that we
found on the western shore of the lake. .
Friday, May 17.—Moved camp, taking with us in the boats the
shore party, who wished to be landed south of the marshes and
mud-flats they had waded through yesterday. The flat where we
- landed was six miles wide, and covered, in many places, with salt.
The nearest wood was at a point of bluff which bounded the plain
to the westward. ‘Transporting fuel on men’s shoulders, this dis-
SEARCH FOR FRESH WATER. 185
tance, after a hard day’s work, was not to be thought of; so we
supped on some hard bread and a small piece of dried beef, which
fortunately remained, and laid our blankets down on the sand.
The night was fine, notwithstanding a heavy gust in the after-
noon from the south-west, accompanied by rain, the principal part
of which fell in copious showers upon the mountains around us.
The shore party did not arrive until near ten o’clock, being guided
to our bivouac by the light of a lantern elevated upon a spade-
handle stuck in the sand. They were not a little disappointed at
getting no supper, as they were wet, hungry, and tired.
Saturday, May 18.—As it was manifestly impossible for us to re-
main here any longer without the means of cooking, I determined
to move, although the survey was considerably in the rear. The
eyes of my assistant, Mr. Carrington, from exposure to the intense
glare of the sunlight from the white sands, had become much in-
flamed, and I was fearful, at one time, that he would be unable to
continue the performance of his duties. He was much better to-
day, however, and returned to the line of the survey.
The skiff was despatched along the shore to the northward to
search for some indication of the large stream of which mention
has been made, and which we hoped might, perhaps, approach near
enough to the shore to be made available for the purpose of wa-
tering. It should be borne in mind that the line of survey, as
has been remarked, followed the storm-line of the lake, which
(since leaving Turret Rock,) was many miles west of the lake
shore.
After getting the camp on board, I determined to go myself in
the yawl, and, if water could be found, to fill up every vessel we
could spare, as I was entirely ignorant when we could again pro-
cure this indispensable article without crossing the lake to the In-
dian Springs. A scaffold or platform was made of spare oars and
tent-poles, elevated upon camp-stools, placed near the boat in a
few inches of water, and all the baggage piled upon it, to lighten
the boat. We started after the skiff, passed it, and advanced
farther to the north, toward a point on the shore where the ap-
pearance of some reeds seemed to indicate the presence of water.
Anchoring our boat to keep her from drifting off, we waded
some half-mile to the shore, and proceeded nearly three miles in-
land on our bare feet, over a sandy flat, and plunged through thick,
oozy mud nearly knee-deep until we reached the growth of reeds
we had seen from the boat. We here found where one of the
186 NIGHT ADVENTURE.
streams, formerly passed on the survey, had now spread far and
wide over the surface of the plain, making a broad marsh with
connecting channels, furnishing plenty of water very nearly fresh.
Insects of various kinds abounded in great numbers in the shal-’
lows, and had attracted vast flocks of wildfowl from the lake,
whose waters afforded them literally nothing either to eat or to
drink. We filled up our kegs and commenced our return, when a
violent gust arose from the north-west. Fearing the consequences,
we hastened our steps; but upon arriving in sight of the beach,
we found, as we had anticipated, that the water had receded before
the wind full half a mile, and our boat, which we left afloat, was
now high and dry upon the sand. As she was very heavy and flat-
bottomed, we found it beyond our strength to move her, and con-
sequently made up our minds to spend the night where we were,
unless the wind should again change and blow from the south-
ward or eastward, and thus cause a reflux of the water, which would
set us afloat once more.
The skiff was despatched with some water to the point agreed
upon for the night’s encampment, and directed to call at the plat-
form for some provisions and blankets for the shore party, while
we remained seated in our boat awaiting the movement of the
waters. After watching some hours for a change of wind, the
men were directed to coil themselves down in the bottom of the
boat, and we all tried to get some sleep, which, tired and weary as
we were, soon came to our relief. While we were thus unconscious,
the wind veered round to the south, and we were driven by the
rising waters farther on the shore than ever. It soon ceased,
however, and upon rising, at daylight, we were again hard and
fast upon the bottom. As the sun rose, a gentle breeze came up
from the south, bringing back with it the refluxed waters, which
gradually began to deepen around us. It will thus be seen that
the rise and fall of the water of any particular locality is de-
pendent in great measure upon the force and direction of the
wind, making a difference of nearly a foot in a very short period
of time. This of course makes a corresponding difference in
the extent of the sand-flats, amounting, in many cases, to miles in
width.
The skiff was descried about sunrise coming in search of us;
and when she joined us we succeeded, by the united force of
both crews, in dragging the boat into deeper water, and set out on
our return to camp, little refreshed, as may readily be believed, by
PROGRESS OF THE WORK. 187
a night’s repose in the bottom of the boat, without even a blanket
to cover us, and a supper and breakfast of raw bacon.
The shore party had shared but little better than ourselves.
Having neglected to provide themselves with the means of making
a fire when they left camp yesterday morning, they could cook no
food, and were consequently restricted to the same delicate fare
as that upon which we had so sumptuously regaled.
Owing to the character of the ground, the past week has been
one of unusual exposure and fatigue to both parties, while the
progress of the survey has been by no means commensurate with
our exertions. ‘The difficulty of approaching the shore, the im-
mense extent of the arid sand-plains, together with the distance
of water and fuel, and the labour of obtaining them, have made
the duties of the boat’s crew, who have been constantly wading in
the brine of the lake or plunging and floundering through the
deep, soft mud of the marshes, extremely arduous and harassing.
The task of the shore party has not been less onerous, owing to
the great distances between the camp and their work, the glare
from the dazzling white sand, the incessant annoyance of the
gnats, and the want of proper food and shelter. We console our-
selves, however, with the hope that the worst has been overcome,
and that the causes of so much vexation and delay will continue
to diminish as we advance to the southward.
Our stock of flour being diminished to little more than one sack,
the coffee to sufficient for but a few days’ consumption, and the
fresh beef having entirely disappeared, we were reduced to fat
salt pork and fried bread. It became necessary to renew our sup-
ply; and preparations were made for a start early in the morning
for Antelope Island, sixty miles distant, where the cattle and
mules were herded, and whence a team could be despatched to the
city for what we needed.
Monday, May 20.—Morning warm and cloudy. The strength
of both parties was required to drag the yawl out into water deep
enough to float her. After much wading and hauling, this was at
length effected, and we set sail. We continued rowing and sailing
all the day. At sundown, the wind hauling into the north-west
and blowing quite fresh, the crew were sent to their blankets, and
Isat at the helm until daylight, occasionally calling the men to
the oars when the wind failed.
I shall never forget this night. The silence of the grave was
around us, unrelieved by the slightest sound. Not the leaping of
188 A NIGHT ON THE LAKE—WATER-FOWL.
a fish nor the solitary cry of a bird was to be heard, as, in profound
darkness, the boat moved on, plunging her bows into the black
and sullen waters. As we passed within the shadows of the ob-
scure and frowning mountains, the eye was strained in vain to
catch some evidence of life. The sense of isolation from every
thing living was painfully oppressive. ven the chirp of a cricket
would have formed some link with the world of life; but all was
stillness and solitary desolation.
At daylight we were still fifteen miles from the island, and the
boat was “hove-to”’ for breakfast, which consisted of bread and
cold bacon, without even a drink of water. Before we passed
around the point of Antelope Island, we stopped for a few moments
at the little islet near it, where the number of gulls and pelicans
was, if possible, greater than we had seen on Gunnison’s Island.
The whole islet was covered with eggs, chiefly those of gulls, and
with innumerable young birds, just hatched, the most of which on
our appearance instinctively concealed themselves among the
crevices of the rocks, while the parent birds, in countless numbers,
anxiously hovered over us, filling the air with their discordant
cries. Some young herons and cormorants were also found amid
this colony of gulls—the former fierce and full of fight, the latter
timid and alarmed, running from their nests to the water, where
they endeavoured to conceal themselves by. persevering but abor-
tive attempts to dive. We filled half a barrel with the eggs, but
most of them proved to be bad. © !
Stopping for a short time to quench our burning thirst, at a
spring breaking forth under a ledge of rocks at the foot of a
picturesque little bay on the eastern side of Antelope Island, we
reached our point of destination at five o’clock in the afternoon,
quite worn down by the incessant toil of nearly thirty-six sleepless
hours.
I was much gratified to learn from the herdsman the safe ar-
‘rival of the party I had despatched to the Uintah Mountains last
November on a trading expedition, and that they had brought with
them nineteen fine horses. As the party on the western shore —
were nearly out of provisions, a couple of horses were immediately
caught, and, accompanied by a single attendant, I started at once
for the city, distant twenty-five miles, leaving directions that a
team should follow early in the morning, for the purpose of haul-
ing provisions out to the island. We reached our quarters in the
city at two in the morning, and retired to rest, thoroughly wearied
BIVOUAC ON DOLPHIN ISLAND. 189
out.—The Jordan was over its banks from the melting of the
snows in the mountains.
Thursday, May 24.—Having laid in all the necessary supplies,
we returned to the island to-day, killed a beef, and made all pre-
parations for an early start next day.
The range for cattle on this island is now very fine, and the
herd appears in excellent condition. The drove of Indian horses,
which had suffered much from the hard winter at Fort Bridger,
begins to improve, and many of them’are very handsome animals.
Monday, May 28.—Owing to head winds and heavy blows upon
the lake, we have been constantly occupied for the last four days
in endeavouring to reach our companions on the salt-plains of the
western shore—a place which the men had, not inappropriately,
distinguished by the title of «Tophet.’”’ An hour before sundown
we descried the smoke of their camp-fires near a small island on
the west coast, called Dolphin Island, and shaped our course ac-
cordingly. When'it became dark, we made out the camp-fire
itself, and hoisted a signal-lanteryn to let them know that fresh
beef, vegetables, and water were near at hand.
At two in the morning we landed, or rather grounded, near
what we supposed to be the sand-flat of the main land, north of
the island, and apparently some half-mile from the camp. The
moon was shining bright and clear, and, anchoring the boat, lest
she should drift off before morning, we shouldered our blankets, a
keg or two of water, and some pieces of fresh beef, and commenced
our tramp for the encampment. Reaching the shore, we trudged
on with bare feet for about a mile, over sharp incrustations of salt
and sand, when we most unexpectedly came again to water.
Judging it to be a mere pool or washing up of the lake, we disre-
garded so petty an impediment, and continued plodding our weary
way through it for about a mile farther, when, finding that it began
to grow deeper and deeper, it being then nearly up to the waist,
we returned to the flats, and, kindling a fire of sage-brush, lay
down upon the sand until daylight. The night was uncomfortably
chilly, and a single blanket was but a sorry protection against the
cold, damp sand and the searching winds from the neighbouring
mountains.
Tuesday, May 28.—A little after sunrise, we perceived some
of the shore party approaching in the skiff; and we now found that,
instead of landing last night, as we had supposed, on the main, we had
struck a wide sand-flat. extending northward from the island, had
190 FORMATION WEST OF THE LAKE—FIELD OF SALT.
crossed it, and attempted also to cross the channel which separated
it from the main shore, when we were driven back by the depth
of the water.
After a hearty breakfast on fresh beef-bone soup, which the
poor fellows from the region of «Tophet’’ enjoyed exceedingly,
they were despatched after the rest of their company, with direc- _
tions to join me at once, in order to survey the island upon which
we were at present encamped. They were in rather a deplorable
condition ; their coffee being exhausted—their flour almost gone—
and their stock of water reduced to a single five-gallon keg.
The rest of the day was spent in erecting a station upon the
highest peaks of the island, and in unloading the yawl upon a plat-
form placed upon kegs and barrels set up in the water, preparatory
to hauling her up, she having become so leaky, from thumping on
the rocks and being dragged over sand-bars, as to endanger the
safety of the provisions. The gnats here were perfectly intolera-
ble, and drove us almost mad.
The character of the country passed over by the line of survey
during my absence was much the same as that which had prevail-
ed more to the northward; viz. extended plains, with grease-wood
and sage. Water, there was none; and our sole dependence was
now upon the supply to be furnished by the boat from the eastern
side of the lake.
The detritus from the mountains, whenever encountered, con-
sisted principally of compact sandstone, abundance of calcareous
tufa, coarse sandstone, and conglomerate.. From the report of
Mr. Carrington, of a partial examination made by him of the range
west of Dolphin Island, it consists of calcareous tufa and conglo-
merate, overlying which was argillaceous limestone of various
colours and texture, extending to the base of the short spurs of the
ridges ; above this was found black, bluish, and gray limestone,
very compact and fine grained, veined with calc spar; above this
again, was an inferior or earthy limestone, overlaid by a brownish-
gray fossiliferous limestone, capped by an argillaceous limestone,
which extended to the summit of the range. The vegetation was
the ever-recurring artemisia, bunch-grass, and a few scattering
dwarf cedars not more than ten feet high.
On the flats near the lake, and immediately west of the island,
a large field of solid salt occurred, beautifully crystallized upon
the sand, about half an inch thick; and the crystals, from one to
two inches in diameter, glittered in the bright sunshine like a bed
‘HLIMON HHL NOUS NOILVLS GNV GNVISI SNOSINNGS
-
AN Aempeosg e.g WT uedayy
iS
GUNNISON’S ISLAND—GULLS AND, PELICANS. 191
of diamonds. The evaporation of the shoal water between the
island and the main shore has left this beautiful deposite of salt,
which must rapidly increase in extent as the season advances.
Wednesday, May 29.—Before breakfast, all hands hauled up
the yawl into a few inches of water, and turned her over to dry,
preparatory to caulking and pitching. The survey of Dolphin
Island was completed to-day. The summit is some seventy feet
above the level of the water, and the island consists mainly of con-
glomerate in horizontal strata, and varying much in the size of
the cemented stones.
To day I made my first essay as a caulker :—caulked, payed,
and painted the boat; and althoughit may not have been very
artistically done, yet it fully answered the purpose. I found that
the brine of the lake had acted very sensibly upon the iron fasten-
ings of the boat, corroding them much more rapidly than ordinary
sea-water would -have done.
This day one year ago the expedition left Fort Leavenworth.
Of the original members of the party only four now remain: the rest
having broken their engagements and gone to the gold-mines.
Those that left last autumn by the Little Salt Lake route, were,
as we heard, stripped by the Indians of all they possessed, and
left to find their way to the land of promise as they could.
Friday, May 30.—Morning calm and pleasant, all hands up
early to move camp. The yawl was turned over and launched,
and found, to our great satisfaction, to leak but little. As we were
again short of water, I determined to run over to Gunnison’s
Island, and make a survey of its shores, while the boat crossed to
the eastern side of the lake to obtain a supply. We landed at two
P. M. upon the shores of the same beautiful little bay, with its
rocky points and white-sand beach, which had so much delighted
us when we first visited the island. Our friends, the gulls and
pelicans, had by no means decreased in numbers; the former fill-
ing the air with their interminable chattering, which continued the
whole night, and formed a most striking contrast to the chilling and
deathlike silence of the surrounding shores. The little bay is
covered with their forms floating lightly and gracefully upon the
undulating waters, and unceasingly engaged in earnest conversa-
tion; while flocks of the more dignified pelicans drew off in
Separate groups, as if in silent contempt of their more garrulous
neighbours.
The island is surrounded by bold, clear, and beautifully trans-
192 GUNNISON’S ISLAND—PERILOUS ADVENTURE.
lucent water, and is, for its size, one of+the most pleasant upon
which we have landed. Immediately north, and distant but a
hundred yards, is a, small rocky islet, which has at one time formed
a part of the main island, the bar by which they are connected
being plainly visible beneath the water. The space between them
forms a beautiful and romantic little bay, with deep, blue water,
clear as crystal. The northern end of the main island is a nearly
perpendicular cliff of black and gray limestone, between five and »
six hundred feet in height.
Immediately upon landing, the yawl was unloaded upon the
beach, as I intended to despatch her for water across the lake to
the Indian Springs—the nearest point where it could be ob-
tained without transporting it from the interior to the boat on the
men’s shoulders. The skiff, which had started with us from Dolphin
Island, had not yet arrived, and I only waited her coming up to
take from her some empty kegs, which it was desirable to fill. To-
ward sundown, the wind began to rise from the south-west and to
blow very fresh. It gradually hauled into the west and north-
west, and blew most furiously, but favourably for the destined point.
Desirous of taking advantage of the gale, I directed the boat to put
off without waiting any longer for the skiff, and she was soon lost
to the view in the mist and gloom to leeward. The distance to the
springs was about twenty miles, which may give an idea of some
of the difficulties which had to be encountered in prosecuting the
examination of these solitary waters.
Soon after the commencement of the gale, it began to hail vio-
lently, accompanied by a darkness and mist which made me uneasy
for the safety of the skiff, especially as she had been seen a short
time previous about two miles to the westward. Having waited
until nearly dark, I concluded that she had been blown past the
island by the sudden fury of the gust, and must consequently be in
great danger of being lost. We were, however, utterly powerless
to aid her, and our only hope “for her safety was that she might
encounter the yawl, which was seen, shortly after leaving the island, .
to haul up suddenly to the northward. One of the lookouts re-
ported that he thought he had seen them approaching each other
far to leeward. A man sent to a commanding peak with a tele-
scope was ‘almost sure’ that he had seen the two boats together
before the thickening mist hid every thing from view. This afforded
us some relief, although we were filled with deep anxiety for the
fate of our companions, all of whom were young men, and inex-
GUNNISON’S ISLAND—BLIND PELICAN. 193
perienced in the management of boats, although perfectly compe-
tent to guide one over the calm and tranquil waters upon which we
had put forth in the morning. All the tent-poles and cooking
utensils were in the missing skiff; and as the night threatened to
be cold and stormy, a temporary shelter from the weather was
hastily erected with spare oars and some drift-wood, which, being
covered with a couple of tents, proved a very tolerable substitute for
our usually more comfortable quarters.
In aramble around the shores of the island, I came across a
venerable-looking old pelican, very large and fat, which allowed me
to approach him without attempting to escape. Surprised at his
apparent tameness, we examined him more closely, and found that —
it was owing to his being perfectly blind; for he proved to be very
pugnacious, snapping fiercely, but vaguely, on each side, in search
of his enemies, whom he could hear, but could not see. As he was
totally helpless, he must have subsisted on the charity of his neigh-
bours, and his sleek and comfortable condition showed that, like
beggars in more civilized eommunities, he had «fared sumptuously
every day.’’ The food of these birds consists entirely of fish, which
they must necessarily obtain either from Bear River, from the
Weber, the Jordan, or from the warm springs on the eastern side
of Spring Valley, at all of which places they were observed fishing
for food. The nearest of these points is more than thirty miles
distant, making necessary a flight of at least sixty miles to procure
and transport food for the sustenance of their young. Immense
numbers of the young birds are huddled together in groups about
the islands, under the charge of a grave-looking nurse or keeper,
who, all the time that we were there, was relieved from guard at
intervals, as regularly as a sentinel. The goslings are an awkward,
ungainly mass of fat, covered with a fine and exceedingly thick
down of a light colour.
The island, which is an irregular ridge of rock, protruded from
beneath, consists of the same compact limestone as that observed
at Flat Rock. Between the water and storm line, ‘on the western
beach, coarse and fine conglomerate or pudding-stone is found in
broad laminz, very hard, and generally inclined to the slope of the
beach. The layers, or slabs, are of various thickness, and would
make excellent pavements.
Saturday, June 1.—As the watering party was still absent, I
took such force as remained on the island, to the summit of the high
peak, to rebuild the station previously erected there, which, from
13
194 HAIL-STORM ON THE LAKE.
a distance, I had found to be not sufficiently conspicuous. As the
morning was exceedingly hot and sultry, and the ascent of the
cliff difficult and toilsome, we imprudently left our upper garments
in the camp, and continued our labour upon the station until the
middle of the afternoon; when a squall, which had been threaten-
ing all the day, burst upon us from the north-west, with great fury,
accompanied with vivid lightning and heavy thunder. The sky
was black as midnight, and the reverberations of the awful peals
of thunder from the surrounding mountains was solemn and sub-
lime. Before the storm came up, the boat with water had been
descried to the northward, with both sails set, and I had watched
her with great anxiety, as I had but little confidence in the skill
of those who had her in charge, and was fearful the squall would
come upon them unprepared. I bitterly reproached myself for
allowing her to go without me; as, in case of her loss, which, at
the time, seemed highly probable, not only would the lives of her
crew be sacrificed, but we, who remained on this barren rock, with-
out the means of leaving it and destitute of water, must have mise-
rably perished. To my great relief, however, I saw, through the
glass, the sails furled, the masts taken down, and the boat brought
to anchor just as the gust struck her, burying every thing in mist
and darkness. I thought, too, that I made out the skiff in tow, but
was not certain, as the distance was too great. The storm lasted
more than an hour—the wind blew a hurricane, and it hailed with
great violence, covering the ground in a few minutes with hail-
stones as large as peas. We sheltered ourselves as well as we
could behind some rocky cliffs; but, being thinly clad, we became
uncomfortably cold; and, as soon as the hail ceased, we hastened,
wet to the skin, to descend to our camp, glad to escape from the
piercing wind which swept in furious gusts over our elevated
pinnacle. | \
The yawl, soon after, came into the bay, with the missing men
on board, but without the skiff, which, though recovered, had
broken adrift in the gale, parting an inch cable, doubled, by which
she had been fastened. It appeared, as we had hoped, that those
in the yawl had seen the skiff yesterday in the storm, and had suc-
ceeded in picking her up. The men in her were without their
coats, exposed to the peltings of the hail-storm, sea-sick, almost
frozen, and nearly scared to death. Had they not been rescued,
they must have suffered terribly, if indeed they had not perished,
as they had nothing to eat; their boat at the time was half-full.
STRONG'S KNOB—CLOTH CAP. 195
of water, and they incapable, from sea-sickness and fright, of
making any further exertion for their safety. Had they used ordi-
nary diligence in the morning, they might easily have reached the
‘island before the storm commenced, and saved themselves much
suffering and their companions no less anxiety. The loss of the
skiff is severely felt—the nature of the shore being such that the
large boat, when loaded, cannot, in many places, approach within
two or three miles of the land, and the lighter vessel is therefore
indispensable. I was rejoiced that no lives were lost, which there
was, at one time, serious reason to apprehend.
We found that the hail had killed a large number of the young
pelicans, as, upon the approach of the gust, they had been deserted
by their parents, who had betaken themselves to the protection of
_ the neighbouring rocks, leaving their tender offspring to «bide the
peltings of the pitiless storm.’”’ So much for the ancient fable of
their feeding their young from their own veins!
Sunday, June 2.—Last night the wind was from the south-
east, which mduced me to hope that the skiff might have been
drifted somewhere into our neighbourhood, and a man was de-
spatched to the top of one of the cliffs, with a glass, to look out for
her. He soon returned, and reported that he had made out what
he believed to be the boat, four or five miles to the southward.
This was joyful intelligence, and we immediately started after her.
We found her in the spot indicated, nearly full of water, but with
all the baggage undisturbed. After picking her up, we directed
our course still farther to the southward, toward a high peak,
which appeared to be either an island or a peninsula. We found
it to be the latter, connected by a broad sandbar with a broken
rocky range, which forms the northern termination of the ridge
bounding Spring Valley on the west, and which I had crossed in
November last, on my reconnoissance of the western shore of the
lake. We gave it the name of «Strong’s Knob.”
After strolling a couple of miles on the sand-flat of the main
shore, beneath high, broken, perpendicular cliffs of black lime-
stone, being desirous of obtaining a view of the south-western
portion of the lake, we ascended one of the highest peaks, from
the summit of which rose a perpendicular oblong mass of rocks,
which, from its singular resemblance to that article of dress, we
called «Cloth Cap.” The day was warm, and the mountain up
which we clambered from eight hundred to a thousand feet in
height. With considerable labour we reached the top, and were
196 STRONG'S KNOB—CLOTH CAP.
richly rewarded for our toil. Beneath us, to the west, lay an ex-
tended plain of bare, arid sand—stretching, apparently, to the
great range of mountains forming the ancient barrier of the lake-
waters in that direction. The water-line of the lake bounded this
flat on the north. South-west from the water, and bounded on the
east by the range upon which we stood, an immense flat stretched
far to the southward, until its termination was lost in the haze
which pervaded the atmosphere. This, doubtless, comprised within
its dreary waste the desert over which we had passed the preced-
ing autumn.
To the east and north-east lay the lake in calm and placid
beauty; while to the south stretched the broken and rugged moun-
tain upon which we were standing, whose fantastic peaks stood out
in bold relief against the pure and azure sky. But, beautiful and
interesting as was this vast panorama of mountain, plain, and wa-
ter, the view to the northward and westward was any thing but
encouraging. In continuation of the survey, the distance from this
point to Dolphin Island must be traversed; but how, was a ques-
tion much more easily asked than answered.
The cliff, or conical peak, which we climbed to-day, consists of
black and gray limestones, of various textures, and all of it highly
fossiliferous, its character, in this respect, becoming more marked
as we ascended, until we reached the summit, called the « Cap,”
which is almost entirely formed of a mass of cyathophylle, im-
bedded in limestone, constituting a complete conglomerate of these
fossils. About halfway up the ascent, was a dark, coarsely granular
limestone, crystalline, and filled with minute fossils of Ortris.
The cliffs were veined in many places with fine white, fibrous cale
spar, half an inch thick, some of which was beautifully variegated
and stained by iron. At the western base of the mountain, we
found quite a large cave, the walls of which were incrusted, in
places, with salt, half an inch thick; and cyathop hy lle projeenll
abundantly as its sides. )
On our return to camp, a line of soundings was taken from the
knob to the island: the deepest water found was ten feet.
Tuesday, June 4.—The last two days have been occupied in
surveying the island, in finishing the station upon its summit, and
reconstructing that on Dolphin Island, which had been destroyed ©
by the storm of Saturday. Our stock of water being reduced to
less than one day’s supply, I started at sundown for the eastern
side of the lake, to renew it, determining to run all night, so as to
NIGHT VOYAGE FOR WATER. 197
return to-morrow, if possible. We left but five gallons in the
camp, and took the same quantity with us for our voyage.
The water in the lake, from Gunnison’s Island to «the springs,”’
is bold and deep, averaging from fifteen to twenty feet, within a
hundred yards of the shore, and reaching in some places thirty-six
feet. After rowing till midnight, a slight breeze sprang up, which
enabled us to set our sails, and advance, though slowly, on our
course. ‘The men had been much fatigued before we started, by a |
hard day’s work in climbing the rocks and rebuilding the stations;
so they were sent to their blankets in the bottom of the boat,
an order which they most promptly obeyed, and were soon buried
in profound repose. The stillness of this beautiful night, as I sat
at the helm, guiding our little bark over the solitary waters of this
mysterious sea, was most impressive.
‘¢ Silence how dead! and darkness how profound!
Nor eye nor listening ear an object finds.”’
The moon rose bright and clear over the rugged cliffs of the pro-
montory, as, an hour before daybreak, we landed at our little pier
of stones; and ere long the gray tints of dawn began to appear,
followed by the blush of a most lovely morning.
A fire was soon kindled, coffee-pots and camp-kettles made their
appearance, and in a short time a smoking breakfast was spread
upon a little patch of grass, of which all partook with a keenness
of appetite little dreamed of by more refined but less favoured
mortals. In less than an hour we had filled our vessels, increased
the length and stability of our pier, washed our faces and hands—
the first time for ten days, (as water was too precious an article to
be wasted for any purpose other than drinking and cooking,)—and
were on our way back to camp, where, favoured by a noble breeze
from the south, we arrived at two o’clock. The station on the
summit was entirely completed and covered with cloth; and the
survey of the island being finished, every preparation was made
for an early start for the main shore on the morrow, there to
renew the dismal scenes of salt-plains, mud-flats, gnats, and mus-
quitoes.
I noticed this afternoon that the gulls’-eggs, which, when we
arrived upon the island lay so thick upon the ground that we could
_ scarcely avoid treading upon them, had now entirely disappeared
from the vicinity of the camp. They had undoubtedly been re-
moved by the gulls themselves to some safer place of deposite, but
198 RETURN TO THE WESTERN SHORE.
how or when the removal had been effected it was impossible for us
to discover.
Thursday, June 6.—We left this encampment with reluctance,
as it was the most pleasant one we had yet made in our peregri-
nations around the lake, and pitched our tents once more upon the
inhospitable flats of the main western shore. As it was necessary
to get a full view of our present position, which it was impossible
to obtain unless from some elevation, I started on foot, in com-
pany with Mr. Carrington, for a peak some seven miles to the
southward, crossing a broad mud-plain, bordered on the right by
a range of hills running off to the north-west. Upon reaching the
eminence, it was found to be part of a ridge or rocky projection
putting down to the border of the lake from the north-west. It
rose abruptly from an immense flat of sand and mud, extending
some ten miles westward to the base of another similar ridge, at
the northern termination of which we had halted in October last,
the day previous to crossing the field of salt and reaching Pilot
Peak. ‘To the southward the flat continued unbroken by the least
elevation for an apparently indefinite distance.
The question which now presented itself was in what way
this sterile desert was to be surveyed. Apart from the con-
sideration of time and expense, water was only to be procured
by crossing the lake, bringing it to the shore, and then pack-
ing it on the backs of my crew for the chain party. This was
obviously impossible, as they could not carry enough in that
way to supply both the shore party and themselves while pas-
sing to and fro over the plain. In addition to this difficulty,
how were the provisions to be carried and cooked? These con-
siderations induced me to hesitate in risking the lives of my
people by attempting to penetrate this desert, where the slightest
derangement of the measures by which they were to be supplied
with water might prove fatal. The appearance of the plain indi-
cated that the lake had not been over it for very many years, for
it was thickly grown up with grease-wood; and the great proba-
bility, if not positive certainty was, that, as the waters were
evidently in a state of subsidence, they would never again over-
flow it. As, therefore, my object was to survey the shore of the
lake in its present stage, I determined to abandon, in this instance,
the storm-line, and to run the line of survey to a point west of
the water, as it then was, and thence to strike across the flat to
Strong’s Knob, triangulating upon the prominent points of the
Ackerman Lith 379Broadway. NY
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WESTERN SHORE—STRONG’S KNOB STATION. 199
different ranges, so as to obtain their general shape and distances,
and sketching in the intervening ground. This course would
secure all the ends of practical utility, without the hazard and
delay to be incurred by penetrating the desert.
The hill from which we made our reconnoissance was about three
hundred feet high, and consisted of coarsely granular and earthy
limestone, terminating to the northward in a perpendicular cliff of
the same formation, in horizontal strata of only a few inches in
thickness from top to bottom, the whole of which was in a state of
rapid disintegration.
Friday, June T.—As it was not expected that the line could
reach Strong’s Knob before the following day, and there was no
intervening point that could be reached by the larger boat, pro-
visions ready cooked and the blankets of the shore party were
transferred to the skiff, whose crew was directed to coast along the
shallow water as far south as they could get, and then to land in
the bight of the bay and await the coming up of the line. Some
drift-wood was cut up and loaded into their boat, to enable
them to boil coffee for supper and breakfast. The main camp was
taken to Strong’s Knob, and pitched at the base of the lofty rocky
peak which composes it, and which is about seven hundred feet
high.
Saturday, June 8.—Morning warm and sultry. A station was
erected to-day upon the highest peak of this peninsula. A circular
. stone enclosure was built up about five feet high, within which the
feet of a tripod, made of drift-wood poles, were placed, after the
area had been filled in with stones and gravel; the wall was then
continued, and the feet of the tripod secured by being built therein.
‘The whole was covered with cotton cloth of different colours, and
presented an object that could be easily distinguished in clear
weather at a distance of twenty miles.
After completing the station, and while taking a series of angles
upon the surrounding peaks and stations, a most furious gale, with
low muttering thunder, came up suddenly from the south, which
‘made it difficult to stand erect in our exposed position. With the
gale came a mist, which shortly enveloped the lake and surround-
ing mountains, irenderint objects a few miles distant so indistinct
as at once to put an end to my observations; and the gale at
length rose to such a height that the instrument hem to be removed
to the shelter of a neighbouring cliff to save it from destruction.
‘The skiff, with the camp-equipage of the shore party, came im
900 LOST SURVEYING PARTY.
about noon. The party itself had bivouacked on the sand the night
previous, and were seen from the station, just before the storm
came up, making good progress across the flat toward the Knob.
As they did not make their appearance at dark, a couple of
men were sent to the west end of the Knob to make signal-fires
to guide them in. These fires were kept up until nearly midnight,
and supper postponed in expectation of their arrival. The look-
outs, on their return, reported that they had seen fires to the south-
west, and that after waiting for the party more than an hour, had
concluded that they must have been unable to find their way in,
owing to the darkness. I was quite uneasy about them, as I knew
they must be suffering for water, having with them only what they
could carry in their canteens. There was no help for it, however,
and, about midnight, we took our supper and retired to rest. A
number of specimens were added to the herbarium to-day.
Sunday, June 9.—Mr. Carrington came in with his party a
little after sunrise. They had struck from the flats to the north
point of the range, instead of the peninsula to the north of it,
which, intervening between them and our camp-fires, had concealed
us from their view. Not finding the camp, as they expected, they
had followed along the shore (which here turns to the southward)
for five miles in search of it, but being disappointed, had returned
to the point which they had first reached, kindled a fire, and lain
down on the sand for the night, without either blanket .or food.
They did not see our signal-fires before reaching this point, as
their faces were turned to the south, and, when they did desery
them, were too much exhausted to come in. They had suffered
much from want of water, but were in good spirits.
A heavy thunder-gust came up in the afternoon, with violent
wind from south-west, and more rain than we had seen since we
left Salt Lake City. Just before dark, the yawl was despatched
across the lake to the springs for water, with instructions to cover
the station near them with white cloth, and return as speedily as
possible. Evening dark and threatening. The gusts here are
short, but the wind very violent, driving the sand before it with
great force and velocity.
Monday, June 10.—Dark and lowering early in the morning,
with some rain, and the prospect of a wet day. But it soon cleared
off, with a brisk cool wind from the north, which anywhere else
would have given a clear transparent atmosphere. It seems,
however, a striking peculiarity of this climate, that no matter
HAZINESS OF THE ATMOSPHERE. 201
from what quarter the wind may come, nor how great its force,
the air continues to be hazy, so that it is impossible to see any
distant object with distinctness. Whether it be owing to the
elevation and consequent rapid evaporation from the lake, I
cannot say, but it occasions great vexation and delay in the ob-
servations upon distant objects, and renders the work lable to
uncertainty and error.
About two P. M. a most furious gust came up from the south-west,
with heavy thunder, and a copious shower of rain and _hail-stones
as large as hazel-nuts. The squall lasted about twenty minutes,
forcing the water up over the beach, overthrowing the tents a
second time, completely flooding us with brine, and forcing us to re-
pitch our camp higher up the beach. In the course of an hour a
fresh gust came up from the west, but it soon hauled into the
north, and blew with fury all the night. The weather was quite
cold, and the wind piercing, so that we were obliged to bank up
the bottoms of the tents, inside and out, with large stones and
sand, to keep them from being blown away, and to exclude the
chilling blast, which rendered great-coats indispensable to com-
fort. The yawl is doubtless out on the lake to-night, and the
crew exposed to all the inclemency of the storm.
Tuesday, June 11.—The gale still continues, the temperature
resembles that of an October morning much more than one in
June. Closed tents at breakfast, and the survey party running
their line buttoned up to the throat. The morning is bright and
clear with flying clouds. The haze, however, envelops the sides
of the distant mountains in a mist which renders their outlines dis-
torted and indistinct. The yawl arrived in the course of the morn-
ing under oars, having dragged her anchor and drifted to leeward.
The night upon the lake, in the open boat, was any thing but
agreeable: the gale had raised a heavy sea, which frequently broke
over the bows, drenching every one to the skin, wetting their
blankets, and rendering sleep impossible. They had reached the
promontory on Sunday night, but, in the darkness, had struck it
too far north. Yesterday they clothed the station, (which is now
quite visible,) filled up their water-vessels, and were about leaving
the springs when the storm overtook them. They had very little
hail, although in camp it fell very abundantly. They represent
the lake as being much higher than when we were last there;
owing doubtless to the increased melting of the snows in the moun-
tains, consequent upon the advance of the season. The water,
202 CAVE AT STRONG'S KNOB—UTAH DIGGER.
under the influence of the northern blast, rose upon the beach
crossed by the line a few days since so as to extend some six or
seven miles to the south of it ; but this morning it had returned to
its old boundaries, upon the subsidence of the gale.
The rock composing Strong’s Knob is almost entirely block
limestone, very hard and close-grained, veined with spar, and very
brittle. Tufa occurs near the base of the hill in large masses,
several feet thick, some of which, having formed around large rocks,
upon which it had deposited itself, had been precipitated with them
from the cliffs above. In other cases, it has formed around the
masses after they had fallen, encasing them completely with a
shell, frequently two feet thick, and had filled up large interstices
between them. Frequently the rock itself has disappeared, leay-
ing the tufa behind, somewhat like a hollow mould after the cast-
ing has been removed. At the north-west end of the peninsula is
an outcrop of compact sandstone and millstone grit, fifty feet
thick, capped by black fossiliferous limestone, slightly inclined.
All attempts at taking angles from the station to-day were render-
ed abortive by the haze which filled the atmosphere and obscured
and concealed every distant object. In ascending the mountain,
quite a large cave was accidently discovered in the hillside, pene-
trating about sixty feet, with a width of twenty-five feet and
height of ten. It had been the resort of deer and antelope. The
rock is black and gray limestone,:with some calcareous conglome-
rate.
Wednesday, June 12.—Moved camp about five miles to the
southward. The ridge continues parallel with the shore, and de-
scends by a gentle slope nearly to the water. The shore is rocky
with scarcely any sand-flat.
As we were rowing along the shore, we espied an old Indian,
with his squaw and papoose, running down the mountain to hail
us. We landed, to inquire of him as to the prospect for water
ahead of us; but he could give us no information on this subject.
He was a Utah digger, and proved to be the same old fellow who
had come to us last autumn, in Spring Valley, and who had en-
gaged to bring in a “give-out”’ mule which we had left behind, for
the promised reward of a new blanket. I questioned him about
the mule, but he only laughed and would give me no satisfaction.
The poor donkey had doubtless furnished his lodge with meat for
the winter. He was an old man, nearly sixty, quite naked, ex-
cept an old breech-cloth and a tattered pair of moccasins. His wife
/MHroadway, NY
Arkona, bith.
Avkernin, Lath a/) Broadway NY
VIEW FROM STRONG S KNORR, TOOK ING | SO Ure RAT SAIC WAKE
DIGGER SQUAW AND CHILD. 203
was in the same condition precisely, minus the moccasins, with
a small buckskin strap over her shoulders in the form of a loop,
in which, with its little arms clasped around its mother’s neck,
sat a female child, four or five years old, without any clothing
whatever. She was a fine-looking, intelligent little thing, and as
plump asa partridge. The mother seemed to evince much affec-
tion for it, and was very much pleased when I threw over its
shoulders an old piece of scarlet flannel which had been torn from
one of the stations by the wind. I noticed, however, that after
they left us, and she thought herself out of our sight, the cloth
was fluttering from her own person, and the baby was as destitute
as ever. I gave them something to eat, and, what I suspect was
more welcome, a hearty draught of water. The poor child was
almost famished. The old man was armed with a bow and a few
arrows, with which he was hunting for ground-squirrels.
June 13-14.—Moved camp yesterday and to-day, aiming to
reach what appeared to be the southern extremity of the spur, at
the base of which the line is being run, but were much bafiled
by shallow water in the attempt. After advancing eight or ten
miles, we dragged the boat as near as was possible to the edge of
a wide sand-flat, lying between us and the ridge, made a scaffold
in the water, and upon it deposited all the provisions, and every
thing not needed for immediate use, so as to lighten the boat
preparatory to a trip to Antelope Island for water and’ for another
beef from the herd.
_ Sending the surveying party’s camp ashore with three men to
pitch it and to cook, I started in the yawl, intending to pass be-
tween Stansbury’s and Carrington’s Islands, which would have
made the course very direct. The wind was fresh from the west,
and we bowled merrily along over the dense and briny waves, un-
til, upon approaching the passage between the islands, we ground-
a upon a sandbar, which seemed to stretch from one island to
the other, forbidding, apparently, all farther progress in that di-
rection. We then tried to pass to the north-west of Carrington’s
island, and, for a time, with every prospect of success, when we
suddenly found ourselves embayed in a cul de sae formed by an
extensive sand-flat, which stretched from the island an indefinite
distance to the westward.
There was nothing to be done now other than to coast along the
edge of this bar until we should be able to get around it to the
northward. Night was approaching; the wind was ahead, and
204 | NIGHT VOYAGE.
rising fast; while lowering clouds spread their black and gloomy
pall over the dark, tumultuous waters. With our heavy flat-bot-
tomed boat, rowing against a head wind and a very considerable
sea was hard work, especially after a day already spent in severe
toil; but we had either to continue on, or to anchor, as there was
no shore that we could approach in the dark, on account of the
shallowness of the water. We accordingly followed around the
edge of the bar, being forced thus to make a circuit of some ten
miles, when we finally succeeded in getting to the northward of
the shoal, and turned our faces in the proper direction. By this
time it was ten o’clock at night, and we had been constantly en-
gaged since daylight. The wind now blowing favourably from the
north-west, we again set our sails, the crew was sent to rest in the
~ bottom of the boat, and I continued at the helm during the night.
The western and northern part of this extensive flat (for it is all
just above the level of the water) forms, as well as I could judge
in the darkness, a hard tufaceous reef, against which a north-west
wind dashed the heavy water with great violence. Indeed, for a
part of the night, I was guided in my course by the roar of the
breakers beating against the reef, reminding me forcibly of similar
adventures. upon the iron-bound coast of New England, or of the
heave of the surf upon the coral-reefs of Florida. .
Nothing occurred during the night, except grounding upon the
tail of a sand-spit making out to the southward from a little island
a few miles north of Carrington’s, to which the boys had given the
name of « Hat Island.” This might easily have been avoided had
not the night been so very dark and the lofty range of the Wah-
satch Mountains ahead enveloped us in a mantle of such profound
blackness that it seemed at every heave of the sea as if we were
plunging into the very mouth of Avernus. After shoving the boat
over the bar with handspikes, we struck immediately into deep
water, and as I now knew every inch of the way, the people again
retired to their blankets, being very weary. The night soon began
to clear away and the stars to appear, their beams reflected bril-
hantly in the dense water of the lake. Flashes of vivid lightning
blazed up occasionally from behind the mountains, and several me-
teors, some of great size and dazzling brilliancy, shot down the sky
to the north-east. This was the third entire night I had thus spent
upon the lake, sitting quietly at the helm, guiding my little bark
qver its solitary waste. Again was I struck with the deep and pro-
BLACK FLIES—ANTELOPE ISLAND COVE. 205
found silence that reigned around me. The night was cold, and I
found two great-coats exceedingly welcome.
While passing from camp over the sand-flats, this morning, I ob-
served a quantity of translucent, white, pink, and blood-coloured
matter, of a gelatinous, or rather mucilaginous character, spread
about in coagulated masses upon the sand, whither it had apparently
been washed up from the lake by yesterday’s gale. The quantity
was considerable, and, if the whole shore was similarly lined, must
have been very great. An incredible number of small black flies,
also, perfectly covered the white sand near the shore, changing its
colour completely—a fact only revealed as the swarms rose upon
being disturbed by our footsteps. They, too, had apparently been
driven in by the storm; for I afterward discovered that they were
almost as thick upon the water as upon the land, moving over its
surface with great ease and swiftness. In the shallows left by the
receding waters, I noticed also quite a number of ants, (the first I
had seen,) drowned seemingly by the overflow. Both of these in-
sects doubtless furnish food for the gulls and snipes, which are
almost the only birds found along the shores.
Saturday, June 15.—Daylight found the boat at the mouth of
the passage between Frémont and Antelope Islands, and, shortly
after, we entered the beautiful little cove on the north-east side of
the latter, from the banks of which several springs trickle down
from the base of a small cliff of protruding rocks.
The scene was calm and lovely in the extreme. The rays of the
rising sun, glancing brightly over the eastern mountains, shone
upon the tiny ripples of the placid little bay, upon whose
bosom a flock of snow-white gulls was calmly floating; while the
green and gently sloping shores, covered with a luxuriant growth
of rich and waving grass, contrasted strongly in our minds with the
dreary and desolate waste of sand over which we had been roaming
for the last month. Several little mocking-birds were singing gayly
on the shore, and the shrill, cheerful whistle of the curlew resound-
ed along the beach. Four graceful antelopes were quietly grazing
on the grassy slope, while the cry of the wild duck, and the
trumpet-note of the sandhill crane were heard in the distance. The
whole formed a picture which, in this desolate region, was as wel-
come as it was rare.
I found, this morning, that my conjecture respecting the food of
the gulls had been correct. Across the little bay ran a broad
streak of froth or foam, formed by the meeting of counter currents,
906 SURVEY OF EASTERN SHORE OF THE LAKE.
and driven in by the wind. Passing through it, I found it filled
with the small black flies, such numbers of which I had noticed
yesterday. In the midst of these were flocks of gulls, floating upon
the water and industriously engaged in picking them up, precisely
as a chicken would pick up grains of corn, and with the same ra-
pidity of motion.
We landed at our first camp-ground near the box-elder tree,
about two hours after sunrise, making twenty-four continuous hours
that I had sat at the helm, without a moment’s respite. A mes-
senger was despatched to the person in charge of the cattle, with
directions to drive up the herd, out of which one was selected and
killed. The rest of the crew were engaged in filling the water-ves-
sels from an excellent spring near the shore. Here I enjoyed the
exquisite luxury of washing my face and hands, for the first time in
more than two weeks—water being too scarce an article in the camp
to allow that privilege to any other person than the cook.
About eleven o’clock I had the pleasure of meeting my friend
and efficient assistant, Lieutenant Gunnison, whom I found busily
engaged in pushing forward the field-work of his portion of the
survey, with his accustomed industry and energy. He had com-
pleted the survey of the eastern side of the lake, and was at the
time engaged in that of Antelope Island. He brought news of the
arrival of the first mail this year, and a large packet of letters from
home. After concerting measures for meeting on the western shore
of the lake, where our surveys were to join, he returned to his camp.
Every preparation being made for an early start in the morning, I
retired to read my letters and to refresh my weary spirits by repose.
Sunday, June 16.—As the party on the flats was nearly out of
water when we left them, and the weather was so uncertain as to
render the time occupied in our return to them equally so, I de-
termined to leave to-day.
- Rounding the north point of Antelope Island, we called at the
little islet to which we had given the name of Egg Island, to look
after our old friends, the gulls and pelicans. The former had
hatched out their eggs, and the island was full of little, half-fledged
younglings, who fled at our approach, and hid themselves under the
first stone they could find. We caught several of them, and amused
ourselves by putting them into the water, when they immediately
followed the instinct of their natures, and paddled away with their
little black feet most assiduously. One poor fellow, about four
inches long, driven by the extremity of his fear, took to the water
WATER-FOWL ON EGG ISLAND. 207
of his own accord, when he was swept out by the current to the
distance of two or three hundred yards, and seemed quite be-
wildered by the novelty of his situation. As soon as he was dis-
covered by the old birds, who hovered over our heads by thousands,
watching our proceedings with great anxiety and noise, one—the
parent, we judged, by its greater solicitude—lighted down by his
side, and was soon joined by half a dozen others, who began guiding
the little navigator to the shore, flying a little way before him, and
again alighting, the mother swimming beside him, and evidently
encouraging him in this his first adventure upon the water. The
little fellow seemed perfectly to understand what was meant, and,
when we sailed away, was advancing rapidly under the convoy of
his friends, and was within a few yards of the shore, which he
doubtless reached in safety.
The young herons had grown, since our last visit, to nearly their
full size, although they were not sufficiently feathered to fly. They,
too, fled as fast as they could, and “cached”’ themselves in the re-
cesses of the rocks. When closely pursued, however, they would
turn and fight most fiercely—striking furiously with their long
sharp bills as well as with their claws—screaming all the while with
a shrill, discordant, and angry note. Those that were too small to
leave the nest were equally pugnacious—standing on the defensive,
with a watchful and determined eye, which evinced any thing but
a disposition to succumb, if attacked. A large number of young
cormorants (Phalacrocoraz) were also seen, who exhibited the same
combative spirit when hard pressed; but the greater portion of
them ran from the nest to the water, where they gave instant evi-
dence of the peculiar instinct belonging to the species, by desperate
attempts to dive, and thus conceal themselves beneath the water.
This they were unable to do, owing, I suppose, partly to the great
density of the water, and partly to their want of strength. The
stench was very offensive, from the quantity of fish brought by the
parent birds for the support of their very numerous progeny.
We reached camp about ten o’clock at night, after dragging over
the shoals and wading about a mile through soft mud, half-leg
deep, and filled with little, sharp rocks, which cut our feet until they
bled. A rain-storm came on just felune our arrival, with violent
wind, which lasted all the night.
Monday, June 1T.—As it was manifestly impossible to prosecute
the survey any farther south by means of the boats, it was deter-
mined to complete the examination of the islands, and then to finish
208 CARRINGTON ISLAND.
the remainder of this part of the work from the eastward, employ
ing mules, if possible, to furnish the party making it with provisions
and water.
Both parties, therefore, proceeded to Carrington’s Island, .
which we reached late in the afternoon, effecting a landing on its
southern shore. It rained heavily and was very cold, with a gale
from the northward; and we landed wet and almost frozen, haying
spent one of the most disagreeable days we had yet endured upon
the survey. Continually baffled by shoals, which could not be seen
until the boat grounded upon them, the whole day had been con-
sumed in making a distance which, under ordinary circumstances,
might have been accomplished in a few hours.
The two following days were occupied in the survey of ‘ki
island, and of a small one about five miles to the northward of it.
The water between them is quite shoal, the deepest being only six
and a-half feet.
The station previously erected upon the summit of Carrington’s
Island had been torn down, doubtless by some wandering Indians,
as we saw the remains of their fires in the immediate vicinity.
They were probably attracted by the cloth with which it was
covered, and must have reached it by wading and swimming to the
island from the mainland.
The slate found when we first landed upon this island abounds
also in various localities. Quartzose rock, generally with a dip of
5° to the south-east, was observed in large boulders on the southern
slope, veined with thick seams of white quartz. Limestone was
also found on the south-west portion of the island, near the base of
the hill. On the north-east point was an outcrop of quartzose rock
plentifully seamed with white and ferruginous quartz. Striated
talcose slate, very much contorted, occurred in the centre of the
island, and, to the west, gray granite, with quartzose conglomerate.
The island is about eight miles in circumference, exclusive of the
flats, which stretch out from it to the southward and westward, and
which are more extensive than the island itself, being terminated
on the west by the rocky reef passed on Friday night.
It abounds in the sego, (Calochortus luteus,) which is beginning
to seed, and, with its beautiful white, lily-like flowers, whitens
and enlivens the gentle slopes of the island. A large number of
other plants was also collected here, among which Cleome lutea, Si-
dalcianeo mexicana, Malvastrum coccineum, Stephanomeria mimor,
HGS tsa GNVISt SAUNESNVLS WOU ONV ISI SNOLONIEUYo
XK N Aempeosg ¢/.¢ yi] UeULLayOYy
STANSBURY’S ISLAND. 209
a new species of Malacothiz, and Grayia spinosa were the most
prominent.
Thursday, June 20.—Moved camp to the north point of Stans-
bury’s Island, and commenced the survey of it, which occupied us
until the 26th. This is the second island in point of size in the
lake, being twelve miles long and twenty-seven in circumference.
Like Antelope Island, it is a high rocky ridge, rising abruptly
from the plane of the lake, and reaches, in its greatest elevation,
the height of nearly three thousand feet. It is, at this time, in
fact, a peninsula, the space between it and the mainland, which
formerly was covered by the water, being now occupied by a broad,
level plain of sand, thickly overgrown in places by artemisia. The
scenery, especially on the eastern side, is in many places wild,
rugged, and grand. Peak towers above peak, and cliff beyond
cliff, in lofty magnificence, while, crowning the summit, the
‘‘dome’’ frowns in gloomy solitude upon the varied scene of bright
waters, scattered verdure, and boundless plains of arid desolation
below. ‘The eastern shore, in many parts, affords springs of excel-
lent water, and the numerous tracks of wolves, deer, and antelope,
added to the frequent remains of Indian fires, indicate that these
spots have long been the favourite haunts of both man and beast.
In the vicinity of these springs, the grasses are rich and abundant,
and the range for cattle the best I have seen in the country.
Both this and Antelope Island have been reserved by the saga-
cious Mormon authorities for grazing purposes.
In skirting the shores, several plants were collected for preser-
vation; among which were the Comandra umbellata, a new genus
of Hlymus, Stipa juncea, and the Elymus striatus. Various seeds
were also gathered.
The western shore of the island is, at this season, so far as we
could discover, entirely destitute of water, although, while the
snows on the summit are melting, some must doubtless reach it.
The party, while engaged here, had to be supplied from the oppo-
site side of the island.
According to previous concert with Lieutenant Gunnison, a
beacon-fire was lighted on a commanding eminence on the evening
of the 22d, which was immediately responded to by a similar
signal from Black Rock. I crossed over to his camp on the fol-
lowing day, to borrow some provisions and arrange for the further
prosecution of the survey. It was agreed that while I was coin-
pleting the survey of this island, the line on the flats, which we
14
210 STANSBURY S ISLAND—THE DOME.
were obliged to abandon for a time from want of water, should be
resumed and completed by Lieutenant Gunnison, his provisions
and water being transported upon mules.
On our return from his camp, we had not proceeded more than
a mile, before a sudden and violent gust, accompanied with light-
ning and thunder, drove us to the shore for safety, our little skiff
being too small and fragile to withstand the fury of the waves. I
have had frequent occasion to remark in what a very short time a
gust, sweeping down from the mountains, will lash the heavy
water of the lake into waves of very considerable magnitude. The
seas are short, and the commotion as suddenly subsides with its
exciting cause. The rise and fall of the waters on the shores is
thus occasioned, and frequently precedes the current of air by
which it is produced.
Wednesday, June 26.—The survey of the island shore being
completed, the whole party ascended to the highest peak to erect
a triangulation station upon it. The day was intensely hot, and
the sun beat down upon the eastern slope, as we climbed up its
rugged sides, with a force that was very oppressive. Every man
was packed, like a mule, with tools and provisions; but principally
with water, in India-rubber bags and canteens.
After a severe climb of some three hours, through rich bunch-
grass near the base, artemisia and grease-wood higher up, and,
still higher, over rocky projections covered with stunted cedar, we
at length reached the summit of the ««dome.”’ From this point,
the highest within the circuit of the lake, we had expected to
enjoy a noble view of both it and the surrounding islands and moun-
tains; but, unfortunately, the atmosphere was filled with so thick
a haze that our hopes were wholly disappointed. In our ascent,
quite a variety of plants were collected and carefully preserved.
Among these, several have been ascertained by Professor Torrey,
to whom the whole collection has been submitted for examination,
to be new species; among others, a Heuchera, Peretyle, Cowania,
and Chenactis.
After resting under the shadow of some wide-spreading cedar-
trees, (the first shade we had enjoyed for months,) the summit
of the peak was cleared, and a circular wall built, five feet high, of
stone, upon the top of which was erected a triangulation station of
wood, covered with cloth. An attempt was made to take some ob-
servations here with the theodolite, but the atmosphere was so
filled with vapour that they were not at all satisfactory.
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COMPLETION OF THE SURVEY—TRIANGULATION. P11
The island where we descended is a ridge composed of a stratum
of white siliceous sandstone, two hundred feet thick, underlying
one of black and gray limestone, which latter constituted its sum-
mit, and was filled with fossils of Cystiphylinm, Syringipora, Favo-
sites, Fenestella, Streptilasma, and erinoidal joints, ima in crystal-
line limestone, and cyathophylle. In our return from the top of
the mountain, we followed the narrow, dry bed of a ravine or
cajion that had been formed by the rush of a torrent of melting
snows in the spring of the year. It was amazing to see what huge.
masses of rock had been moved by this agency—many of several
tons weight having been carried far into the plain below. As we
descended, the gorge, which had at first been almost shut up be-
tween perpendicular cliffs of white sandstone, opened out into a
superb, wide, and gently sloping valley, sheltered on each side by
beetling cliffs to the very water’s edge, effectually protected from
all winds, except on the east, and covered with a most luxuriant.
growth of rich and nutritious bunch-grass.
Near the shore of the lake, abundant springs of pure, soft water
gush forth, amply sufficient for the consumption of all the stock
the valley could supply with food. As a range for cattle, it was
all that could be desired; and is superior to either Tuilla Valley
or Antelope Island, on account of the complete protection it affords
from the storms of winter, here both long and severe.
To-day has been one of severe suffering, from the insufficient
supply of water we were able to carry with us, every drop of which
was consumed long before we commenced our descent from the
mountain.
Thursday, June 27.—The survey of the lake was finished yes-
terday, having occupied the incessant labour of nearly three
months. Nothing now remained but to complete the observations
upon the different triangulation stations that had been erected in
the course of the examination. The camp was broken up, and we
returned to our depdt on Antelope Island; discharged such of the
hands as were no longer required, procured a fresh supply of pro-
visions from the city, and, on Wednesday, July 3d, started on our
tour around the lake, leaving three men upon the island, to take
charge of the herd and to prepare the pack-saddles required for
our return to the States.
The triangulation of this part of the survey occupied us until
the 16th, during which time the lake was again traversed in every
direction, and observations were taken from the various stations
Ae
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912 SALT WATER BATHING—ANALYSIS OF THE LAKE WATER.
that had been erected upon prominent headlands on the shore and
on the summits of the several islands.
While engaged upon this duty, we frequently enjoyed the luxury
of bathing in the water of the lake. No one, without witnessing —
it, can form any idea of the buoyant properties of this singular
water. A man may float, stretched at full length, upon his back,
having his head and neck, both his legs to the knee, and both
arms to the elbow, entirely out of water. If a sitting position be
assumed, with the arms extended to preserve the equilibrium, the
shoulders will remain above the surface. The water is nevertheless
extremely difficult to swim in, on account of the constant tendency
of the lower extremities to rise above it. The brine, too, is so
strong, that the least particle of it getting into the eyes produces
the most acute pain; and if accidentally swallowed, rapid stran-
gulation must ensue. I doubt whether the most expert swimmer
could long preserve himself from drowning, if exposed to the
action of a rough sea.
Upon one occasion a man of our party fell overboard, and, al- -
though a good swimmer, the sudden immersion caused him to take
in some mouthfuls of water before rising to the surface. The effect
was a most violent paroxysm of strangling and vomiting, and the
man was unfit for duty for a day or two afterward. He would in-
evitably have been drowned had he not received immediate assist-
ance. After bathing, it is necessary to wash the skin with fresh
water, to prevent the deposite of salt arising from evaporation of
the brine. Yet a bath in this water is delightfully refreshing and
invigorating.
The analysis of this water by Dr. Gale has shown that it con-
tains rather more than 20 per cent. of pure chloride of sodium,
and not more than 2 per cent. of other salts, forming «one of the
purest and most concentrated brines known in the world.” Its
specific gravity was 1.17, but this will slightly vary with the sea- ,
sons, being doubtless affected by the immense floods of fresh water
which come rushing down into it from the mountains, in the spring,
caused by the melting of the snows in the gorges.
Thursday, July 16.—To-day we took a final leave of this sin-
gular lake. The difficulty of finding water fit for the ordinary
purposes of life—the necessity of transporting, by means totally
inadequate, every pound of provisions and every drop of water
needed for the daily consumption of a large party of men—the un-
avoidable distance of our depot, and the barren, savage inhospi-
EASTERN SHORE OF THE LAKE. 913
tality of the region we were obliged to traverse, have made this
survey one of unusually arduous and protracted toil. But the
salubrity of the climate is such that, notwithstanding our constant
exposure to the vicissitudes of the elements, a large portion of the
time without the protection of tents, not a man was seriously un-
well, and most of the party were in the uninterrupted enjoyment
of robust health.
The survey of the eastern side of the lake had, in the mean time,
been completed by the party under Lieutenant Gunnison. The
following extract from his report to me, will sufficiently ae the
character of this portion of the valley :—
«To recapitulate and give the result of the field-notes. Two
lines have been located, the shore of the lake and base of the
hills, in order to give the flat occupied by the farmers. These
lines are determined by the three-point problem, as numerous
points of the triangulation afforded facilities, and we had no boat
on the lake.
«¢ The land on the north of Bear-river Bay, ten miles wide to
the base of the hills, is a clay barren. Numerous springs issue
from the hills, which soon sink. They are all more or less brackish,
but seem to answer well for cattle. There is fine pasturage in the
high grounds. The clay-flat has numerous buttes about six feet
above the lower plain: these are islands left by the washing down of
the original level, and have nearly perpendicular sides. The lake
waters are driven by storms over the flat and wash off from the
buttes, which will soon disappear. Drift-wood is found some miles
from the present shore. Light carriages can be taken over the
flat near the Bear River outlet and along the shore: the shore in-
tervening, to the hills, is soft and impracticable. In the Salt Lake
Valley, on the Bear and Malade rivers, is some excellent soil for
grain. Fifty miles could be irrigated, but the expense would be
heavy in constructing a dam at the “ gates’’—that is, where Bear
River breaks through the Wahsatch range. The river at the ferry
was two hundred feet wide and twelve deep.”
«¢ Near the river, and twelve miles below the “ gates,” are the hot
and cold springs. They issue at the foot of the flanking terrace
of hills, and have excavated for themselves a circular hole, fifteen
feet deep, with sloping sides and a deep channel leading into the
meadow. ‘There are currents issuing between different strata of
conglomerate and limestone, within a few feet of each other, of
which one is a hot sulphur, a second warm and salt, and the third
214 EASTERN SHORE—“‘ BULL-BOAT.”’
cool, drinkable water. At numerous places fine salt is brought up
and jets of gas emitted: the salt forms an incrustation around the
hole, and is pure enough for table use. Some small rivulets de-
scend from the mountains as you proceed south; two of which, fed
by springs, could be used for irrigation and ee farms of one
hundred acres each.”
«« Box-elder is a beautiful stream of clear, sparkling water, except
when swollen in the spring by the rapidly melting snow. It was
swelled into a large river during the survey, and overflowed all its
banks. This stream, and the two south, to Bright Creek, can be
carried over some excellent land, and made to water ground enough
for five thousand people.”
« Red Springs are hot waters, impregnated with iron, which is
deposited and colours the ground crimson red: hence the name.
The salt-flats extend from the lake to this point, and a low flat
sweeps round to Weber River, of the clay barren character, between
the north branch of the river and Mud Island. The river was now
swollen, and filled several channels over this flat, entering the lake
to the northward; and many were ten feet deep, with a swift cur-
rent. At the mouths they shoal, but were very uncomfortable to
ford, as we did, by wading, as the water was of the temperature of
melting ice and snow.”
«In the angles of Red-spur and Main range are small streams for
farming purposes; but the Ogden river, as it bursts out of a narrow
caiion, furnishes an opportunity for mill privileges and irrigating
canals seldom equalled. On its bank is the site of Ogden City.
Beautiful meadows, the river-level of which is subject to overflow,
are below the junction with the Weber; and I estimate forty square
miles on these streams as capable of cultivation.”
««The freshets had swept off all the bridges, and embarrassed us
much. ‘To survey the delta of Weber and cross the rivers re-
quired boats. We obtained hides, and, by the aid of some Flat-
head Indians, constructed a «bull-boat,”” by taking willow rods and
laying a keel and longitudinal ribs between two stakes driven into
the ground, marking the length, and then cross-sticks, tied with
thongs, making the skeleton of a canoe. Three hides were sewed
together; the sides of the centre one and one end of each of the
others being joined and then softened in water: they were now
stretched over the willow-work, and the seams made tight by a
composition of melted tallow and ashes. Our wagons were taken
into parts, a rope was stretched over a foaming, tossing, boiling
Ackerman Lith379 Broadway NY.
mtn GH Ores, VALLEY OF EES W Gis bh Bey Be.
VALLEY OF THE JORDAN AND OF LAKE UTAH. 215
torrent, at a narrow chasm, where the banks were high enough °
for landing, and then the frail, bending boat, by repeated journeys,
carried us all over safe, with our baggage and instruments. It
was a severe day’s work, however, and the risk of life and property
very great; but the only insurance Ee be had was in the Saal
of prudence, skill, and perseverance.”’
«« Between Weber and Ogden the land is too high for sengnian
except by some rivulets which afford but a small supply. Along
the Weber, below the cajion, is a narrow meadow strip, and to the
south a flanking spur from the mountains, of six successive terraces,
ten miles broad, and sloping to the lake. These are grazing lands
for Weber settlement. South of the terrace pastures commences a
series of creeks of bright, sparkling water, that irrigate a strip of
land averaging two miles in width, and extending to the vicinity
of Hot Spring, three miles from Salt Lake City. This includes
Miller’s and Session’s settlements, and is covered with lovely fields
and gardens. From the hot spring to the city are numerous warm
fountains that deposite gypsum and other sulphates. These waters
give delightful baths, but destroy the fertility of the soil. The
south shore-line of the lake, from the mouth of Jordan River, was
measured by the chain on the soft, sandy beach and barrens. ‘The
line of the Jordan river was previously chained, and I passed over
the traverse range with the triangulation in the valley of Lake
Utah. From the Jordan caiion to Dry Cotton-wood is a grazing
range. At the outlet of the lake there is a reed marsh which, by
early cutting the dense growth, a pretty hay can be made. It
will be difficult to obtain irrigable land until we reach the Spring
ereek, and we have to rely on the American Fork for water to
irrigate with. A beautiful and wide bottom land les along the
lake shore, for some miles under the control of this stream; and
from the crossing to the heads of Pomont-quint is a rich alluvial
soil, mixed with vegetable mould. A series of rolling, round hills
now occur between the Pomont creek and Timpanogas, well grassed
for cattle ranges. On the Timpanogas bottoms wheat grows most
luxuriantly, and root-crops are seldom excelled. A continuous
field can be made thence to the Wa-ke-te-ke creek, and the lovely
Utah valley made to sustain a population of more than a hundred
thousand inhabitants. The west of the lake is grazing land, and
a road on this side to the southern settlements is the natural line
of travel from the capital city below. Warm springs issue near
the outlet, and the mists from the cooling waters give at all sea-
216 SUMMARY OF THE WORK.
~ sons the appearance of rising smoke and steam from a manufac-
turing hamlet. <A limestone quarry is located here. The water on
the west side of the lake is bold, and much of the way a towline
might be used to propel. boats. The Jordan is too crooked and
shallow in places for boating. A magnificent water-power exists
at the caiion, very accessible for teams; and here the river could
be led out along the western or eastern base of the hills, for either
manufacturing or irrigating purposes.”
The following summary exhibits the amount of work done in
prosecuting this examination:
1. The selection and measurement of a base line, six miles in
length. . |
2. The erection of twenty-four principal triangulation stations, the
lumber for many of which was hauled a distance of upward of
thirty miles. Many of these, put up in the fall of 1849, had
to be renewed in the summer of 1850, having been torn down
and used for fuel by the Indians during the winter, as well as
by some of the inhabitants, who probably supposed they had
already fulfilled the purpose for which they were erected.
Miles.
3. The survey of the Great Salt Lake, the shore line
of which, exclusive of offsets, extends to.............. 208
4, The survey of the islands in the lake...............000. 96
oe Snevarrey of Utalt lake.7i. F405. 202.052, eae 16
6. The survey of the River Jordan connecting the two
lakes and some tributaries..........cccccceccscccscececs 50
Making. in all... c.temuscien por bastecnnsnd-eh sae 513
7. The observations from different triangular stations, extending
from the northern extremity of the Salt Lake to the southern
boundary of the valley of Lake Utah, comprising an area of
more than five thousand square miles, and involving the neces-
sity of traversing a large extent of country, both by land and
by water.
The triangulation of the valley south of the Salt Lake and the
observations for the azimuth of the base line were finished on the
12th of August, and the time until the 28th busily occupied in
preparations for our return.
I had. determined, if possible, to find a practicable route to the
MR
“dined SHS WHL #0 BLNOW 4H Woud N¥CMOr SIL 42s
arf na ares ryt c mae
KeMnnoal(G/,¢ yu | imeutiaxy : |
a
MORMON HOSPITALITY—HOMEWARD JOUNREY. D1T
southward of that now crossing the mountains by the South Pass.
I therefore disposed of all my wagons, and such instruments and
public property as were no longer necessary, by selling them to
the Mormon authorities; and arranged,for the transportation of
the baggage of the party entirely by pack-mules. The horses
purchased from the Uintah Indians the past winter enabled me to
mount a force sufficiently numerous for self-protection upon the
projected route—part of which lay through the common battle-
ground of the Sioux, Snakes, Utahs, Blackfeet, and Crow Indians.
Before taking leave of the Mormon community, whose history has
been the subject of no little interest in the country, I cannot but
avail myself of the opportunity again to acknowledge the constant
kindness and generous hospitality which was ever extended to the
party during a‘sojourn of rather more than a year among them.
The most disinterested efforts were made to afford us, both per-
sonally and officially, all the aids and facilities within the power
of the people, as well to forward our labours as to contribute to
our comfort and enjoyment. Official invitations were sent by the
authorities to the officers of the party, while engaged in distant
duty on the lake, to participate in the celebration of their annual
jubilee, on the 24th of July, and an honourable position assigned
them in the procession on that occasion. Upon our final de-
parture, we were followed with the kindest expressions of regard,
and of anxious hopes for the safety and welfare of the party upon
its homeward journey.
CHAPTER IX.
HOMEWARD JOURNEY.—EXPLORATION OF A NEW PASS THROUGH THE
ROCKY MOUNTAINS.
Wednesday, August 28.—Having completed our arrangements,
we left the city of the Great Salt Lake for home, and encamped
at the mouth of the «« Big Kanyon,” which affords a pass through
the Wahsatch range of mountains to the plains beyond.
Thursday, August 29.—Morning fine and cool. A train of
Mormon wagons, just arrived from the States, is encamped near us.
Our road to-day is up the Golden Pass, through a caiion formed
218 PASS THROUGH THE WAHSATCH MOUNTAINS.
by Big Kanyon Creek, and which has lately been opened and
worked by the Mormons, who demand a small toll on each animal,
to be devoted to its improvement. The ascent is not so abrupt
as I had anticipated. ‘The valley is very narrow, with bold escarp-
ments on either side, scarcely affording space between them for
the passage of the turbulent little mountain-stream, which, with
its bright, flashing waters, comes tumbling down the pass with a
cheerful, murmuring sound, producing, after the dead silence of
the barren plains and dreary sand-flats of the lake, a sensation
peculiarly pleasant and refreshing.
The road, which is very crooked, and in many places even
dangerous, passes over a friable sandstone, underlying a heavy
stratum of limestone. Cedar, oak, maple, service-berry, aspen,
bitter cotton-wood, and willows are found in the pass; and I ob-
served several fine vines of the wild hop, loaded with fruit. Much
heavy grading, expensive side-cutting and walling, besides inclined
planes, would be required to render this pass at all eligible for the
passage of a railway. A good wagon-road, however, can here be
made, and at a moderate expense. The great obstacle to the use
of all these mountain passes is the vast accumulation during the
winter of snow, which, drifting over from the bordering heights,
effectually blocks up the valleys, not unfrequently to the depth
of thirty feet; thus rendering them impassable from five to six
months in the year. :
As the sun went down, the temperature became sensibly lower,
and at nine o’clock the thermometer stood at 46°. Observations of
Polaris gave for latitude 40° 45’ 40’".5. Day’s march up the pass,
seven miles.
Friday, August 30.—Morning clear and cool. Thermometer
at sunrise, 52°. Our road continued up the Big Kanyon Creek,
(crossing its south fork) for five miles, when we reached the summit
of the range, and struck upon Bauchmin’s Creek, a branch of Hast
Kanyon Creek, which latter is a tributary of the Weber. Lati-
tude by meridian observation at summit, 40° 44’ 48’. The val-
ley is here from two to three miles broad, and near the summit
several large pines are growing, as yet undisturbed by the
emigration. Scrub-oak and aspen constitute the predominant
growth. |
The road continues up the valley of Bauchmin’s Creek, crossing
several small affluents, until reaching a main fork coming in from
the right. This stream, which is six feet wide and two feet deep,
PARLEY S PARK—CAMASS PRAIRIE. 919
(
heads in a range of hills three miles to the south-west, whence it
issues with a beautifully clear and rapid current, and, crossing the
valley, joins the main stream and flows west and north-west into
the Weber. Where it issues from the hills, it enters a lovely and
fertile circular meadow, about three miles in diameter and skirted
with trees. A couple of miles north-east, a trail passes over the
hills to the Provaux, a tributary of Lake Utah, six or eight miles
distant. Crossing this beautiful little prairie, which is called
Parley’s Park, and passing around the head of a noble spring on
our left, we crossed Bauchmin’s Creek, here about twenty feet
wide and two deep, with a rapid current and clear, cold water.
Following up a dry channel for two miles, we encamped upon a
little spring branch with plenty of fine grass.
The country is becoming more level and the valley much wider.
The ascent for the last two miles is quite gentle, and the land ex-
cellent. Wheat could be raised in large quantities on the prairie
land which lies on our left, all the way from Bauchmin’s Creek.
Distance from Salt Lake city, thirty miles, Latitude, 40° 43’ 04’7.8.
Saturday, August 31.—Starting the train on the road, with direc-
tions to encamp at the ford of the Weber, I made a detour to the
right, with a small escort, to examine a prairie called Camass Prai-
rie, through which a level and practicable route was said to exist
between the heads of the Weber and the Timpanogas.
Following for about five miles a south-easterly course up the val-
ley of Silver Creek, a tributary of the Weber, we left it at a land
where it comes from the south-west, and ascended a ridge, or
divide, and descending it on the opposite side, through a ravine on
its eastern slope, about a mile in length, we came into the wide
valley of a small stream flowing into the Timpanogas toward the
south-east. Crossing this, we ascended a long slope to the top of a
broad level ridge, on the eastern side of which the Timpanogas
itself flows southwardly, and finally discharges itself into the Utah
Lake. From this point, Timpanogas Peak, in the vicinity of the
lake, bears south, 10° west. At the head of a dry ravine putting
into the Timpanogas, a meridian observation was taken for the
latitude. Duchesne’s Pass bears south, 70° east, and the heads of
Timpanogas and Weber rivers, north, 70° east.
Leaving this summit, we struck north-east about four miles, and
descended the bluffs bordering the south-western side of Camass
‘Prairie until we reached the plain, which we found to be a most
lovely, fertile, level prairie, ten or twelve miles long, and six or
220 HEADS OF THE TIMPANOGAS, WEBER, AND BEAR RIVER.
seven wide, and extending north-west and south-east from the Tim-
panogas to the Weber. At the south-eastern end of the prairie,
the Timpanogas breaks forth from a range of lofty mountains, and
skirts the edge of it, passing near the base of some high hills on
the south-east ; while from near the same point, the most southerly
branch of the Weber issues also and crossing to the western end
of the same prairie, discharges its waters into the main stream.
This latter, coming through a deep cafion from the north-east,
bounds the prairie on the north-west, and winding its sinuous
course through a wilderness of willow and cotton-wood thickets,
pursues a north-western direction for about fifteen miles to the
point where it is crossed by the road. |
The pass made by the Weber through the mountain, although
narrow, is said to be practicable by one of the guides, who passed
through it in former years with a train of pack-mules.
Several little streams of pure, clear water wind through this fer-
tile prairie, cutting small, deep channels for themselves in the rich
alluvial soil; their existence being only discernible from the in-
creased height and luxuriance of the grass upon their borders, and
occasional clumps of willows flourishing along their edges. The
prairie, from one end to the other, from the Weber to the Timpano-
gas, 18 one level plain, covered ih a heavy growth of rich grasses,
and affords a passage from one stream to the other as perfect as
could be desired. Bear River is said by our guides to take its rise
in the same mountain with the Weber and the Timpanogas. Should
such be the case, (and there is no reason to doubt it,) an easy com-
munication can be obtained by means of the valley of that stream
into this prairie, and thence down the valley of the Timpanogas
into that of the Utah Lake.
The grade down the Timpanogas is disnaived to be easy, and
the cafion through which it descends to the level of the Salt Lake
basin to be sufficiently wide for the construction of a road. Sucha
route would obviate many difficulties which must be encountered in
descending either of the only other two practicable cafions through
the mountain in the vicinity of Salt Lake City, or in going
through that of the Weber River. When once the level of the
basin is attained, the way from Utah Lake, either north or south,
appears to be open.
In the event of any exploration for a railroad to California or
Oregon, upon a route so far north, a careful examination of the
country from the point where the main emigration-road strikes
ROUTE OVER THE WAHSATCH MOUNTAINS. 221
Bear River, up that stream to its source, or at least to a point
where a crossing could be obtained over to the heads of the Weber,
thence down that stream into the Camass Prairie, and thence, cross-
ing the prairie, down the Timpanogas to the Utah Valley, offers, I
think, the most feasible mode of crossing the formidable obstruc-
tion presented by the Wahsatch range of mountains.
Fording the Weber at the north-west end of the prairie, we fol-
lowed down its right bank, recrossed, and struck once more into
the beaten track, which we followed in pursuit of the train.
The weather had been very threatening during the afternoon,
and the lurid clouds and muttering thunder gave token of the ap-
proach of a‘heavy storm. About dark the tempest burst upon us.
Rain fell in torrents, intermingled with hail; and, as it increased
in violence, was accompanied by a darkness so profound that it
became impossible to distinguish the road, or even the horses upon
which we were riding. The lightning blazed with such intense
brightness around us that we became completely blinded, and the
storm driving furiously in our faces, it was with the greatest diffi-
culty we could keep the track for a few yards at a time. We were
ten miles from camp, and felt ourselves in a rather uncomfortable
situation. The guide, who had preceded us, and had arrived at
the encampment before the storm began, surmising what must be
our condition, with commendable foresight despatched a couple
of men to meet us with a lantern, by the aid of which we succeeded
in reaching the tents about ten o’clock, thoroughly drenched, cold,
and exhausted, having been in the saddle, without food, for more
than fifteen hours. A basin of hot soup and a cup of strong coffee.
soon revived us, and, wrapped in our blankets, we slept soundly,
regardless of the tempest, which flashed and raged around us the
whole night.
It may be remarked here, that the Camass Prairie consists of
most excellent land, and can be irrigated over its whole extent
with comparatively little labour. Water for stock is abundant,
and timber for ordinary farming purposes is plentiful and con-
venient. The broad-leafed dock of the eastern prairies abounds
here, and it is the only spot where I have observed it since leaving
the Missouri. A species of geranium was very abundant, and also
a great variety of asters. The surrounding hills are full of rolled
stones or very coarse gravel, principally of sandstone, much
stained by iron.
After leaving the prairie, and crossing the Weber, several ver-
229), WEBER FORD—RED FORK.
tical trap dikes were observed on the hillsides; and one, in par-
ticular, consisted of what resembled a gigantic stone fence, half a
mile in length, regularly laid up, the stones composing it being
entirely separate from each other, and from six to eight feet cube,
the whole presenting the appearance of a fine specimen of Cyclo-
pean masonry.
The road pursued by the train crossed Silver Creek, and con-
tinued down the right bank of the Weber for seventeen miles,
where it was forded, and the camp made for the night. Grass —
and fuel plentiful. The Weber bottom, as far as the mouth of
Red Fork, five miles beyond, presents many beautiful little prairies
on either side of the stream, fringed with belts of large cotton-
woods, affording good locations for many small grain and stock
farms. The rock observed from the road was principally a light-
gray, fire-grit sandstone, with a dip of 30° to the north-west and west
north-west, some pudding-stone, and earthy red sandstone. Day’s
march, nineteen miles. Lat. 40° 53’ 41/7.3 Lon. 111° 36’ 26”.
Sunday, September 1.—Engaged in drying up after last night’s
rain, which had thoroughly soaked a portion of the baggage. In
the afternoon the arms were cleaned and inspected, and the men
engaged in firing at a mark.
Monday, September 2.—Last night was quite cold, and at sun-
rise the thermometer stood at 33°, with a heavy fret covering the
ground. The horses took a icknapiede during the night, being
frightened probably by a bear or a wolf, and this morning were
very wild and difficult to catch. The cattle evince an obstinate
determination to run back on the road, and require a constant and
strick guard to prevent them.
The road continued down the valley of the Weber, now reduced
to about a mile in width, being confined on the right by high
rounded hills, with gray sandstone cropping out, with a dip of 30°
N.N. W. Crossing a small affluent, called Morin’s Creek, and a
short distance farther on another, for which the mountaineers have
no name, it not being deemed worthy of notice by them, as no
beaver had ever been found in its waters, at five miles we
crossed Red Fork, at its junction with the Weber, which is here a
clear, rapid stream, one hundred and twenty feet wide, and two
and a-half deep in the channel. At the junction, meridian obser-
vations gave for the latitude 40° 57’ 41’... Distance from Salt
Lake City, fifty-four and a-half miles.
At this point the old road-turns off to the right in nearly a site
RED FORK—MORMON EMIGRANTS. 293
-easterly course, and follows up the valley of Red Fork: the ascent,
except for the first three miles, in which the rise is tolerably rapid,
is moderate, enough so for a railroad, and the valley sufficiently
wide and direct for such a purpose, without the necessity of resort-
ing to curves of a small radius.
The valley of this stream seems to have been the result of some
convulsion forming an anticlinal axis, the strata on either side of
the caiion dipping in opposite directions; that on the left to the
north-west, and the other to the south-east, with an elevation gradu-
ally increasing as we ascend until it reaches 45°. High, perpen-
dicular cliffs of red sandstone conglomerate, intermingled with lime
and quartzose pebbles, and occasionally fine-grit sandstone, were
continuous on the north side of the cafion the remainder of the
day’s travel. ‘These strata varied from one to thirty feet in thick-
ness, and near the mouth of the fork the cliffs were from one hun-
dred and fifty to two hundred feet in height, with lofty peaks of
the more indurated portions of the rock towering toward the sky
in a wild and picturesque manner.
As we advanced up the valley, several unconformable strata of
horizontal sand and pudding stone were observed overlying the
_ dipping rock, the red sandstone intermingled occasionally with
the yellowish-gray, yellowish, and white varieties. To the right
the hills are rounded at their summits, and their sides for the most
part are covered with soil, through which the rock occasionally
appears. Water, grass, and wood are sufficiently abundant for
camping purposes. Toward the lower end of the valley, wild .cher-
ries and wild hops of the best quality abound in great profusion.
Ninety-five wagons were met to-day, containing the advance of
the Mormon emigration to the valley of the Salt Lake. Two large
flocks of sheep were driven before the train, and geese and turkeys
had been conveyed in coops, the whole distance, without apparent
damage. One old gander poked his head out of his box and hissed
most energetically at every passer-by, as if to show that his spirit
was still unbroken, notwithstanding his long and uncomfortable
confinement. The appearance of this train was good, most of the
wagons having from three to five yoke of cattle, and all in fine con-
dition. The wagons swarmed with women and children, and I
estimated the train at one thousand head of cattle, one hundred
head of sheep, and five hundred human souls.
Our day’s march was only sixteen and a-half miles. Several
994 THE COTTAGE—ECHO CREEK.
circum-meridian observations of Altair, gave for latitude of the
camp 41° 2/ 27/.26; long. 111° 30’ 34”.
Tuesday, September 3.—Ther. at sunrise, 31°. The road con-
tinues to follow up the valley of Red Fork. In about six miles we
came in view of a remarkable little eminence in a bluff of red sand-
stone, which almost perfectly resembled a rustic cottage, with a
- deep-arched doorway and gently sloping roof, covered with scat-
tering cedars. The illusion was very strong, and became more and
more perfect as we approached, until we almost expected to see
some one issuing from the portal to gaze upon the passing train.
The valley of Red Fork to this point is very beautiful, beginning
to widen considerably, and becoming more level.
For about a mile from camp, gray sandstone takes the place of
the red, after which the latter predominates, but not in such con-
tinuous ledges as heretofore. Opposite «the Cottage,” a broad,
level ravine comes in from the 8S. 8. E., which apparently heads
somewhere near the sources of Morin’s Creek, and, from the trend-
ing of the hills, may connect with those of the Weber itself. If
this should prove to be the case, the circuitous route by the mouth
of Red Fork may be entirely avoided, as well as the descent to the
Weber, and the rise from it, both which are unavoidable by the
route now pursued. A short distance beyond the Cottage, a
broad ravine comes in from the N.N. E., which is, in fact, the
main Red Fork—the eastern branch, along which the road passes,
being called Echo Creek.
In the forks of the two streams, at the foot of a bluff of horizon-
tal red and gray sandstone, observed for time and latitude. We
called the bluff «« Chicken-cock Bluff,” from the strong resemblance
to that bird of a large cedar on its summit. Ascending this ele-
vation, I obtained a view of the valley of Red Fork, of Echo Creek,
and also of the ravines coming into the former from the S. S. E.
It is highly probable that a pass may be obtained by means of one
of these valleys over to some of the head branches of the Weber,
or to the river itself, before it enters the Camass Prairie. It is
worth a careful examination, as success would insure an almost
level and very direct route through the Timpanogas Valley to that
of the Great Salt Lake at Utah.
On the right bank of Red Fork, just above the junction of ©
Kcho Creek, in a cliff of horizontal red sandstone, the escarpments
were much worn and rounded, as if by the action of water, and
wrought into strange and fantastic shapes, many of them resem-
~
CACHE CAVE—SUMMIT—YELLOW CREEK. 295
bling turrets, bastions, &e. Yesterday numerous places were ob-
served in the high cliffs below, where a black and apparently viscid
substance, resembling mineral tar, had oozed out between the
strata and trickled down the face of the cliffs. This would seem to
indicate the vicinity of coal, although no other iw of its pre-
sence was discovered.
From the mouth of Echo Creek to Cache Cave, a distance of five
and a-half miles, the cliffs begin to disappear, the rocks cropping
out only occasionally through the soil, and the hills gradually di-
- minishing in height. From Cache Cave, (which is merely a small
hole or grotto in a large gray-sandstone rock appearing in a low
bluff on the left,) the route winds up the valley of Echo Creek,
and ascends a pretty steep hill to the dividing ridge between the
waters of the Weber and Yellow Creek, a tributary of Bear River,
into which it discharges its waters about six miles below.
Here it was evident that the road should not have followed the
valley of Echo Creek at all, but should have continued up the
valley of Red Fork, from ««Chicken-cock Bluff” to a depression in
the hills to the northward, leading over into Yellow Creek, by
which the route would have been shortened as well as much iin-
proved. From this ridge the Weber Mountains can be seen
through the Red Fork Kanyon, distant about twenty miles, and
also the mountains beyond Camass Prairie.
From the observations taken from this elevation, there is every
indication that by following up the valley of Yellow Creek to its
head, a good route may be obtained over to the waters of the Weber
before it enters Camass Prairie, by which the whole descent of Red
Fork can be avoided, and also the consequent necessity of the
ascent of the Weber for twenty miles to that beautiful meadow,
whence, as before remarked, the route to the Timpanogas is as
level as a floor. Here the roads might fork, one leading to Utah
Lake, by the Timpanogas, and the other, by Silver Creek, Bauch-
min’s and Golden Pass Creeks, to Great Salt Lake City. Any ex-
ploration, for either a railroad or a permanent mail route through
this region, should embrace a careful examination of the country
in this vicinity.
Encamped on the banks of Yellow Creek, which is about three
feet wide, with steep banks, and fringed with willows, but no timber.
Day’s march, seventeen miles. Distance from Salt Lake City
eighty-two miles. Lat. 41° 09’ 00.2; long. 111° 14’ 18”.
Wednesday, September 4.—Morning quite cool. Ther. at sun-
15
2296 THE NEEDLES—BEAR RIVER—COAL BED—TAR SPRINGS.
rise, 31°. In a quarter of a mile the road turns abruptly to the
right and follows up Needle Creek, (a branch of Yellow Creek,)
with a gentle ascent, passing a ridge crowned with broken pointed
crags of conglomerate, which, from the acicular form of the pro-
jections, has gained for it the name of «The Needles.”’ Ascending
to the head of this stream, we descend into the valley of Bear
River, the low bottom of which is here about a mile and a-half
wide, and thickly covered with clumps of cotton-wood. ‘The river
is about four hundred feet in width, two and a-half in depth, flowing
with a strong current over a bed of large pebbles. Crossing this
stream the road keeps the valley of Sulphur Creek for about two
miles, where we halted to noon, near an excellent spring of good
cold water. A meridian observation gave for latitude 41° 08’ 08/’.28.
A short distance north of the road, and on the north bank of
the creek, a bed of bituminous coal was discovered, between two
nearly vertical dikes of light-gray coarse-grit sandstone, one hun-
dred and fifty. feet apart, the course of which is north, 30° east.
The outcrop was about eight feet wide by four feet thick, and was
only visible against the south side of the north dike. It appeared
to be quite an extensive deposite, but its depth and width can only
be ascertained by further examination. Specimens of it, although
much weathered, burned in the camp-fire with a clear, bright flame.
The seam had a direction apparently the same as that of the dikes,
with a dip of 70° 8., 70° HE. From the base of the bluff is-
sued several sulphur springs, and south about a mile and a-half,
a spring of Petrolium, or mineral tar, oozes from the low bank of a
little rivulet flowing into the valley of Sulphur Creek from the
south-west. The emigrants collect it for medicinal purposes and
for greasing their wagon-wheels. The bank from which it issues is
full of rolled pebbles, but no ledge is visible.
From this point to the southward lay a broad expanse of:
country, considerably lower than our level, stretching away toward
the heads of Bear River. To the south-east a little park of timber
grew near the bluffs which form what is termed the «: Rim of the
Basin,” and from which flow the heads of Sulphur Creek: to the
eastward a low table extended toward the heads of the Muddy, a
tributary of the Colorado of the Gulf of California.
Returning to our place of nooning, we again struck into the road,
and, passing over a level country for two or three miles, we at length
ascended the ridge dividing the waters which discharge themselves
within the Great Basin, from those which flow into the Pacific.
RIM OF THE BASIN—-ROUTE FROM FORT BRIDGER. DOT
The ascent is gentle and winding. Numerous springs burst out on
either side, near the summit of the ridge, amid groves of aspen,
which cover the sides of the surrounding hills.
It was with no little exultation that we reached this eastern
barrier of the Great Basin, in which we had been floundering amid
dreary deserts and barren mud-plains for the last thirteen months,
and to which we now bade adieu with feelings of unfeigned satis-
faction. Directly upon the summit, by the side of the road, was
the fresh grave of some poor fellow who had come thus far on his
journey to the land of promise—a land he was destined never to
behold.
From the top of the pass, it was evident that a much better
location for the road could have been made from the head of Muddy
to that of Sulphur Oreek, by which the route would have been
rendered much more direct, and at least two formidable elevations
avoided.
From conversations with several individuals well acquainted with
the country in this vicinity, especially with Major Bridger, who
has traversed this whole region for the last thirty years, as well as
from my own observations, which go ina great measure to confirm
their statements, I feel convinced that the best route for a road into
the Salt Lake Valley would be obtained by ascending Black’s Fork
to Fort Bridger ; passing thence to Bear River, distant twenty-
five miles; then crossing Bear River and ascending its valley until
we strike upon the heads of a branch of the Weber; following
down which for fifteen miles, the main stream is reached about two
miles north of Camass Prairie. Into the latter, access through the
upper cafion is not difficult. This, so far as can be judged from
the information obtained, and from the partial observations we had
ourselves the opportunity of making, would afford a route entirely
practicable for a railroad, the chief obstacle presenting itself being
the liability to obstruction from the snows that would be likely to
accumulate in the cafion of the Weber. From the Camass Prairie,
as before observed, the road might fork, the branch which leads to
the city descending the Wahsatch range by the Golden Pass as at
present, while the other, following down the Timpanogas, would
enter the Salt Lake basin near to Lake Utah.
Following a ridge for about eight miles from «the Rim of the
Basin,’ we encamped at Red or Copperas Spring, a tributary of
the Muddy, (an affluent of Green River,) after a march of twenty-
six and a-half miles. The road to-day has been hilly, but good;
*
228 FORT BRIDGER—BLACK’S FORK—MILITARY POST.
fuel, grass, and water abundant, and at convenient points. Lat.
41° 13’ 46’; long. 110° 48’ 00”.
Thursday, September 5.—Morning cool and slightly cloudy.
Ther. at sunrise, 87°. A march of sixteen miles brought us to
Fort Bridger, on Black’s Fork of Green River. This is a trading-
post much frequented by the Shoshonees, Utahs, and Uintah In-
dians, and is owned and conducted by Messrs. Vasquez and
Bridger, from both of whem we received the kindest attention and
every assistance which it was in their power to render.
Black’s Fork, upon which the fort is situated, is a considerable
stream of excellent, clear, sweet water, which rises in the Bear
River mountains, and discharges its waters into Green River, or
the Rio Colorado of the Gulf of California. A mile and a-half
above the fort, it divides into four streams, which reunite two miles
below, forming several islands, upon the westernmost of which the
fort is beautifully located, in the midst of a level, fertile plain,
covered with a luxuriant growth of excellent grass. Numerous
groves of willows and cotton-wood, with thickets of hawthorn,
fringe the margins of the streams, and afford fuel and timber for
the necessities of man, and shelter for cattle from the inclemency
of the winter. Black and white currants are tolerably abun-
dant, and are now ripening upon the banks of the rivulets. ‘The
emigrant road forks here, one branch leading to Fort Hall, by the
Soda Springs, and the other, pursuing a more southerly course,
leads to the City of the Salt Lake, the distance to which by the
travelled road is one hundred and twenty-four and a-half miles:
this, may be materially shortened by a judicious location of the
route. ;
From its position with regard to several powerful Indian tribes
which imhabit this region, Fort Bridger offers many advantages
for the establishment in its vicinity of a military post. It occu-
pies the neutral ground between the Shoshonees and the Crows on ,
the north; the Ogallalahs and Sioux on the east; the Cheyennes
on the south-east; and the warlike tribe of the Utahs on the south.
A competent force established at this point would have great in-
fluence in preventing the bloody collisions which frequently occur
between these hostile tribes, and would afford protection and aid
‘to the great tide of emigration which, for years to come, must con-
tinue to flow in one ceaseless current to Oregon and California.
The party remained here several days, to readjust the packs, and
to complete the final arrangements for crossing the plains. The
NEW ROUTE THROUGH THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 229
trunks and heavy baggage were left in charge of Major Bridger,
to be forwarded by a Mormon train from the city; Governor
Young having kindly engaged to see that they were safely trans-
ported to St. Louis. Carrying with us, therefore, only such arti-
cles as were absolutely indispensable, we prepared for our de-
parture. During our stay, daily observations were taken, the re-
sults of which gave for the lat. 41° 18’12/.8; andlong. 110° 82/ 23/”.
On the 7th the mail arrived, bringing the unlooked-for intelli-
gence of the death of the President of the United States.
Before leaving Salt Lake Valley, it had been determined not to
return by the beaten track, but to endeavour to ascertain the prac-
ticability of some more direct route than that now travelled to the
waters of the-Atlantic. If it should prove to be practicable to
earry a road across the north fork of the Platte, near the Medi-
cine Bow Butte, and, skirting the southern limit of the Laramie
Plains, to cross the Black Hills in the vicinity of the heads of
Lodge-pole Creek, and to descend that stream to its junction with
the South Fork of the Platte, nearly a straight line would thus be
accomplished from Fort Bridger, and the detour through the South
Pass and the valley of the Sweetwater, as well as all the rugged-
ness of the Black Hills, upon that line, be entirely avoided. The
country through which the proposed line would pass was repre-
sented as entirely practicable and as affording every probability
of success. y
Major Bridger, although at considerable sacrifice of his own in-
terest, with great spirit offered his services as guide, he being well
acquainted with the ground over which it was my desire to pass.
The offer was most cheerfully accepted; and as our route would lay
directly through the war-ground of several powerful Indian tribes,
care was had fully to equip the party with arms and ammunition
necessary for our defence.
Tuesday, September 10.—We left Fort Bridger in the afternoon,
and proceeding about five miles down Black’s Fork, encamped in
a small meadow upon the right bank, with good grass for the ani-
mals. A merchant-train for Salt Lake passed us during the day,
from which I procured some sugar and coffee, of which articles we
were nearly destitute, the supply of Salt Lake City having been
exhausted long before our departure.
Wednesday, September 11.—Ther. at sunrise, 23°. Our route
to-day follows the emigration road down Black’s Fork, which is
twice crossed. In eight miles from camp we crossed Smith’s Fork,
230 VALLEY OF GREEN RIVER.
a pretty little stream of good water, which also takes its rise in the
Bear-river Mountains, near the heads of Black’s Fork, into which
it falls about twelve miles below Fort Bridger. Continuing in the
valley of Black’s Fork, after a march of nearly eighteen miles en-
camped on its right bank, about half a mile above the mouth of the
Muddy, another affluent coming in from the left. Lat. 41° 287
56/’.88; long. 110° 18’ 50”.
Since leaving the basin and entering the valley of Green River,
a remarkable change in the face of the country is apparent. In-
stead of the disturbed and upheaved rocks which characterize that
region, flat tables or terraces of horizontal strata of green and
blue sand and clay, and sandy conglomerate, or agglutinated sand,
now form the principal feature of the country, standing alone, like
island buttes, amid the barren plains, or forming escarpments
which alternately impinge upon the banks of the winding streams.
These tables, which extend from the rim of the basin to the South
Pass, and thence to Brown’s Hole on Green River, are apparently
the result of a deposite in still water. The layers are of various
thicknesses, from one foot to that of a knife-blade, and the hills are
fast wearing away under the influence of the wind and rain.
The whole country looks as if it had, at one time, been the bot-
tom of a vast lake, which, bursting its barrier at Brown’s Hole, had
been suddenly drained of a portion of its waters, leaving well-
defined marks of the extent of the recession upon the sides of these
isolated buttes. As the channels became worn by the passage of
the water through the outlet into Green River, another sudden de-
pression followed, and the same operation was repeated at still a
lower level. There are three well-defined levels, and the same ap-
pearances of horizontal water-lines occur here as were noticed upon
the hillsides of the islands in the Great Salt Lake; save that in the
latter case they are more numerous and closer together, and the
subsidence of the waters appears to have been more gradual. The
surface of the ground was strewn with fragments of obsidian, black,
shiny pebbles, flints, and white, yellow, and smoky quartz.
A high wind from the W. 8. W. blew up clouds of dust,
and, at every turn of the road, announced the approach of crowds
of emigrant-wagons, wending their way to the Mormon valley, with
droves of cattle and sheep, whose fat and thriving condition, after
so long a journey, was the subject of general remark, and excited
universal admiration.
Thursday, September 12.—Last night was very cold, and at sun-
‘<THE CHURCH —PILOT BUTTE. 931
rise the thermometer stood at 22°. Shortly after leaving camp we
ascended a hill opposite the mouth of the Muddy, and reached a
remarkable isolated butte, to which the traders have given the name
of «The Church.” It is composed of green and brown indurated
clay and brown sandstone, seamed and furrowed by the elements
into fantastic and picturesque forms, resembling somewhat the
ruins of a huge antiquated castle. Following the old road for a
couple of miles farther, over a level country of sand and clay, al-
most denuded of vegetation, except occasional patches of artemisia,
which seems to claim as its peculiar property soil where nothing
else will grow, we came in sight of a high butte, situated on the
eastern side of the Green River Valley, some forty miles distant :
a landmark well known to the traders, and called by them Pilot
Butte.
Leaving the emigrant road here, we struck for this prominent
elevation, passing, on our way to it, over a barren plain formed by
the washings from the hills, which had covered up every vestige of
vegetation, and presented an aspect of dreary desolation saddening
to the heart. Passing a small brackish spring, which issues from
the base of some coarse brown sandstone rocks, rising abruptly
from the level plain to the height of twenty feet, we halted to take
a meridian observation, which gave for latitude 41° 31’ 08/7.5.
The mouth of Ham’s Fork bears north 20° west, distant four
miles, the mouth of Black’s Fork being about thirty miles below.
From this point the land descends gently for twelve miles to Black's
Fork, which we crossed at an excellent ford, and encamped on its
left bank, amid thickets of willows, and fine grass for our ani-
mals. The stream was about a hundred and forty feet wide,
and easily forded. In times of high water it is probably from two
hundred to two hundred and fifty feet wide, with a depth of from
six to eight feet.
The vegetation, to-day, has been very sparse, and consists princi-
pally of dwarf sage and grease-wood bushes, with low bunch-grass.
Black currants abound on the banks of the stream. In many
places the ground has been thickly strewn with gravel and pebbles,
mostly siliceous, with occasional appearance of argillaceous hme-
stone. Day’s travel, twenty-five and a-half miles; total from Fort
Bridger, forty-seven and a-half miles.
Friday, September 13.—Morning overcast, and threatening rain.
Ther. 47°. As we were in the act of leaving the camp-ground,
an alarm was given that a body of armed men on horseback was
232 SHOSHONEE WARRIORS—RABBIT HOLLOW.
charging down upon us at full speed. The pack-mules and loose
animals were immediately driven back into the bushes, where they
could be more easily defended, while, accompanied by Major Brid-
ger, I advanced to the bank of the stream to reconnoitre. We
soon ascertained that the party consisted of a band of some twenty
Shoshonees, who were out upon a hostile expedition against the
Utahs, and that, mistaking, as they said, the smoke of our fires for
that of their enemies, they had charged down upon us, in full ex-
pectation of effecting a surprise. As soon as they discovered their
mistake, they crossed the creek in compliance with our invitation,
and greeted us in the most friendly manner. The party was armed
in a most heterogeneous way, some having rifles, others old bayonets
fastened upon the extremities of long poles, and the rest bearing
only bows and arrows, with a little round shield suspended from
their necks. ‘They were, for the most part, well-mounted upon
small, but apparently Sy cie horses.
There being no longer any occasion for alarm, the acne were
driven from hee cover, and leaving our red fidelte to pursue
their own course to the Capes we resumed our march, although
it had commenced to rain quite heavily, with every prospect of a
stormy day. Recrossing Black’s Fork, we followed up a small
depression, and in about a mile reached by a gentle ascent the
summit of a long ridge, stretching eastwardly toward the valley
of Green River. Crossing this ridge we struck upon the broad
valley of another affluent of Black’s Fork, which we pursued for
about six miles to its head, when we reached the ««divide’’ between
that stream and the waters of Green River. From the “divide”
we descended a long and winding ravine, called Rabbit Hollow,
which joins the valley of Green River two miles above the mouth
of Bitter Creek, a considerable stream flowing into that river from
the eastward. The lower part of Rabbit Hollow will require to
be partially worked, to avoid the bends of the dry bed of a stream
which winds from side to side of the narrow bottom; but, with this
trifling exception, an excellent wagon-road can be traced from
Green River at this point to Fort Bridger, and by a very direct
route. The north side of this ravine, near its mouth, is flanked
by lofty vertical cliffs of indurated green clay and shales, overlaid
by horizontal strata of a soft, yellowish sandstone. The same
formation occurred on the eastern side of Green River; and the ©
turreted appearance of the crumbling sandstone cliffs, four hun-
dred feet in height, was in a high degree imposing and picturesque.
GREEN RIVER—BITTER CREEK VALLEY. 233
At this point we crossed the river, between banks some thirty
feet high and eight hundred feet apart. The deepest water found
in crossing was three feet, but in high stages it is a formidable
stream, and will require to be ferried. The bottom is about a
mile in width, and is covered with thickets of willows and abun-
dance of grass. Following down the left bank of the river, we
encamped in a clump of bitter cotton-woods, where, owing to the
suspicious vicinity of our Indian acquaintances of the morning,
the animals were securely picketed and the guard doubled for the
night. Two or three Indians had followed us all day, and, after
partaking of a hearty supper, left us just before dark—as they said,
to rejoin their companions. We did not, however, feel called upon
to place the most implicit confidence in their statements, and the
necessity of increased vigilance during the night was impressed
upon the guard, lest, upon waking in the morning, we should find
that our animals had disappeared. The weather began to clear
before night, and enabled us to obtain an observation of Altair,
which gave for latitude 41° 80’ 44/’.5, longitude 109° 38’ 40”.
Day’s march, thirteen and a‘half miles; and sixty-one miles from
Fort Bridger, by the route we have pursued, which, with a little
care, can be much improved and shortened.
Saturday, September 14.—Ther. at sunrise, 46°. <A dense
fog concealed every thing from view. The night had passed
without disturbance, which led me to suppose that the Indians
yesterday had really no design upon our horses, as I had suspected.
As it was impossible to move while the fog continued, the men
were occupied in cleaning their arms, wetted by yesterday’s rain.
Black currants and buffalo-berries abound upon the banks of the
river. The latter growin great profusion upon a shrub about
fifteen feet high. The berry is about the size of a pea, of a bright
scarlet colour, and:contains but one seed. It has a pleasant acid
flavour, and would make an excellent jelly. The Indians are said
to be extravagantly fond of it. |
Before noon the fog lifted, with the promise of a fair day;
we saddled up and started on our journey, directing our course up
the valley of Bitter Creek, which enters Green River about a mile
below. Crossing the bottom of Green River Valley, we passed the
mouth of Bitter Creek, and ascended it the whole day’s march.
For the first half-dozen miles, the valley is much cut up by deep
gullies, worn by the water from the rapidly decomposing hills on
each side of the stream. ‘These, however, present no serious ob-
934 BITTER CREEK—BITUMINOUS COAL BEDS.
stacle to the easy construction of a good road: the soil being
porous, and mixed with a large proportion of gravel, can be readily
graded. So rapid is the disintegration of the sandstone bluffs,
and so constant the wash of the soil, that the valley, so far, is
almost entirely destitute of even a spear of grass, and presents a
most desolate appearance.
After passing this mauvaise terre the route is quite level, pre-
senting no obstruction of consequence, except the necessity of occa-
sionally crossing the creek, which will be somewhat difficult, as the
bed of the stream is not unfrequently at a depth of twenty feet below
the level of the bottom, with perpendicular banks on each side. But
the earth is easily removed, and very little labour will render these
crossings by no means formidable. Ata point thirteen miles from
the mouth of Bitter Creek, we found a bed of bituminous coal
cropping out of the north bluff of the valley, with every indication
of its being quite abundant.
For the first seven or eight miles after entering the valley, the
formation was similar to that of Rabbit Hollow and Green River,
and the strata horizontal: they then began to dip gradually to the west
and north-west, until, at this point, the elevation had reached 20°.
The coal was of the same character as that found on Sulphur
Creek, near the crossing of Bear River, alternated in beds of
various thickness, from a few inches to several feet, with yellowish
and light-gray sandstones. Major Bridger informed me that,
about a mile from the mouth of the creek, a large bed existed,
which, from his description, resembled lignite, but which, owing
to other occupations, I had passed without observing. One of the
men reported to me that he had noticed it, and had seen a piece
of coal lying in the bed of the creek as long and as thick as a
man’s body. This had apparently fallen from an outcrop in the
south bank, which was about four feet in thickness. Major
Bridger also stated that a similar bed is to be found to the south
of the mouth of Black’s Fork, that he had used it for years, and
that it burned freely, with a clear, white blaze, leaving little re-
siduum, except a small white ash. From this outcrop, as we
ascended the valley, the strata became more nearly horizontal ;
and at the termination of the day’s march, some four miles beyond,
had nearly recovered its level position.
The valley of Bitter Creek generally has but little snow in it .
during the winter, and was formerly a rendezvous for the trappers
and traders, on account of the abundance of buffalo. None of
VALLEY OF BITTER CREEK. O35
these animals are now to be seen in the region. The only vegeta-
tion, to-day, has been a little dwarf artemisia, grease-bush, rabbit-
bush, salt-grass in the narrow strips of bottom-land, and an occa-
sional dwarf cedar on the bluffs. Appearances indicate that the
bed of the stream, which has no banks above the general level of
the bottom, has been completely filled by the spring rains, over-
flowing the low grounds and carrying down immense quantities of
soil, which has been deposited below, upon the broad flats of Green
River. The ridges on each side of us to-day have been principally
composed of horizontal gray limestone and disintegrating aggluti-
nated sand; the escarpments, rounded into fantastic forms of bas-
tions, buttresses, and turrets, by the action of the winds and the
rains, were in many cases quite beautiful. Day’s march, seven-
teen miles. Lat. 40° 34’ 41/7.8; long. 109° 23’ 9”.
Sunday, September 15.—Morning slightly cloudy. Ther. at
sunrise, 44°. The water being very indifferent, and wood difficult
to be obtained, it was determined to make a march to-day to a
spring supposed to be about ten miles up the valley. Bitter
Creek, at this camp, flows in a bed twelve feet below the plain of
the bottom, and the water in its present stage is about sixty feet
wide by six inches in depth. But the accumulation of large piles
of flood-wood shows that during the spring freshets, the whole
valley, here about one thousand feet wide, is completely covered
with water. The general course of the valley for ten miles was
north, 74° east, over a very level flat. About halfway of this dis-
tance the sand-cliffs disappear, and the valley opens wide, with
rounded hills on each side, much less elevated than the bluffs below.
At this point the stream forks, one branch coming in from the
south, with a wide level valley. About thirteen miles above, it
forks again, both branches heading within two miles of each other,
in a small mountain, in which Red Fork, another affluent of
Green River, flowing into it below Brown’s Hole, also has its
sources. One of the guides says that there is a good route by Red
Fork to Green River, and thence to the heads of Bear River.
A short distance on our left lay a small, shallow lake, some six
miles in circumference, formed by the drainage from the hills on
the north and east, and very probably by some springs in the
vicinity, as the waters appeared clear and fresh.
After passing that point, the hills began to approach each other
more closely, and the ascent became rather more abrupt, with
numerous gullies, or drains, crossing it at right angles, rendering
236 BITTER CREEK—EXTENSIVE COAL BEDS.
the trace, heretofore unexceptionable, rather more unfavourable.
Frcm the lake we followed the right bank of the east fork of the
creek for six miles, when we again crossed it, and one mile beyond
we broke out, from a bed twelve feet thick, some beautiful speci-
mens of excellent bituminous coal, which burned in our camp-fires
with a clear yellow flame. In the sides of the ravines putting into
the valley are abundant beds of this mineral.
The rock is very much of the same character as that observed
below—red, white, and yellow sandstone, with a slight dip to the
east and north-east. In some places, nodules of rock, deeply tinged
with oxide of iron, were frequent. The rock is very porous, and
rapidly disintegrating under the action of snow and frost, and is
washed down into the valley by the spring rains in great quanti-
ties, so that vegetation, except grease-wood and salt-grass, is very
sparse. |
Continuing up the left bank seven miles farther, we encamped
in the forks, after a journey of twenty-five miles, near two cold
sulphur springs which issue from the base of a cliff of light-gray
coarse-grit sandstone, having fragments of coal interspersed, so
as to form something like a pudding-stone of coal and cemented
sand.
Near the northern spring some beautiful white lichens were
growing on the rocks over which it flows; and under the project-
ing cliff, some highly coloured ones, with variegated hues, like the
neck of a mallard. Currant-bushes were quite plentiful, and the
plain near the springs has a dense growth of broad-leafed blue-
joimt and wire-grass, among which I observed some purple asters.
A mile and a-half north of the camp, on the North, or Evans’s
Fork, is an outcrop of coal, ten feet thick; but most of that in
sight appeared to be but imperfectly mineralized. Indications
were also observed of the presence of 4ron-ore near the camp.
Lat. of the camp, 41° 30’ 51/.4. Long. 108. 50’ 34”,
Monday, September 16.—Our route to-day continues up the
east or left fork of Bitter Creek. Sandstone cliffs bound the val-
ley on the north side, in which I observed a stratum of coal, which
was exposed for a hundred yards, and was at least ten feet in
thickness. During the whole day’s march this mineral was met
with in every favourable locality, and in quantities apparently
without limit. The formation was the same as lower down the
stream, except that the dip was north-easterly, at an angle of from
6° to 10°.
: HEADS OF BITTER CREEK—-BRIDGER’S FORK. oot
Several bands of antelope were seen, and one of the hunters
brought in a noble buck. Grouse, also, were abundant, and very
fat. A bear, too, was seen taking a good look at us, but, not liking
our appearance, he made off with all haste before we could get a
shot at him.
The trace for a road has been good, and the distance travelled
in nearly an eastern direction was twenty-two miles. Our observa-
tions gave for latitude 41° 28’ 9’’; longitude 108° 41’ 9”.
Tuesday, September 17.—Our course to-day was up the east fork
of Bitter Creek, about south 70° east, for eighteen miles, when
we reached its head, ascending very gently to the dividing ground
between it and the waters of Muddy Creek, an affluent of Little
Snake River, which flows into the Yampah, about twenty miles
above the entrance of the latter into Green River. Here we leave
the valley of Bitter Creek altogether, having followed it from its
mouth for seventy miles. On the level table forming the « divide”
is a butte composed of sand and clay, a hundred and fifty or two
hundred feet high, standing isolated and detached from the range
of bluffs to the south and east of it, and to which, from its shape,
we gave the name of “The Haystack.” From this landmark we
travelled in nearly an eastern direction, gradually descending, for
six miles, to the valley of a small branch of the Muddy, to which
we gave the name of “ Bridger’s Fork of Muddy,”’ and encamped in
its valley, although the water was so strongly impregnated with ~
alkali that the animals drank it with evident reluctance and disgust.
The valley is here much cut off by abrupt gullies and ravines,
formed by the wash from the hills, and in many places the ground
is covered with a crust of impure soda to the depth of half an
_ inch. The grass, since our-noon halt, has been very scarce, and
our poor mules have fared rather badly. Several buffalo were seen
to-day, and one antelope killed. Our hunters are calculating
largely upon the sport before us as we approach the buffalo range,
and are much excited at the prospect of once more revelling in
their favourite fare. Day’s travel, twenty-six miles. Lat. 41°
28’ 39/’; long. 108° 14’ 24’.
Wednesday, September 18.—Ther. at sunrise, 44°. A slight
<‘stampede’’ occurred among the horses last night, owing to the
blundering of an old-buffalo bull into the camp. Several of the
animals broke from their fastenings and fled in dismay, but were
all ultimately recovered.
238 RED GATE—PRAIRIE—ELK MOUNTAINS.
Our course lay down the valley of Bridger’s Fork for three and
a-half miles, when it opens suddenly between two high cliffs of red
and green indurated clay, and strata of coarse-grit brown sand-
stone, upon a vast rolling prairie, extending from the Platte to
Snake River. To this opening we gave the name of « Red Gate.”
The general direction of the low range bounding the western side
of this prairie is about north-east and south-west. Upon entering
the plain, a magnificent view opened before us. On our right, to
the south and the east, extended the Elk Mountains, with their
blue peaks, in which the Elk River takes its rise; to the left of
these rose a high square butte, marking where the three branches of
St. Vrain’s Fork enter the Snake River. On our left stretched far
off to the northward the ascending ridge of prairie forming the «di-
vide’ between us and the waters of the Sweetwater and the North
Fork of the Platte, while before us, and at right angles with our
course, ran four rolling prairie ridges, the farthest of which, about
forty miles distant, formed the western boundary of the Park
Mountains. Bridger’s Fork, the little stream whose valley we had
followed to the Gate, pursued a wandering course to the south-
east through the prairie, its existence marked only by an occasional
clump of willows. A few buffalo bulls were quietly grazing upon
the plain, and now and then a small herd of antelope, bounding
away over the hills, gave life and spirit to the picture.
The soil from this point to Muddy Creek is for the most part
of an excellent quality, but, from want of moisture, can never be
appropriated to any other purpose than grazing. ‘The grass,
though thin, is very nutritious. Small sage, salt grass, grease-
wood, a purple aster, together with bunch-grass, and, in the more
sandy portions, small cacti, were the principal plants. The tops
of the ridges were strewn with a flat, black gravel, with pebbles
of yellow and white quartz. An occasional drain was crossed,
which gave indications of having contained water quite recently ;
but all of these were now dry. As long as the water lasted, the
whole plain must have been covered with buffaloe and antelope, as
the profusion of « sign” abundantly proved; but as this indispen-
sable article was absorbed by the sandy soil, they seemed, from
the direction of their trails, to have struck a course for the Ver-
milion. Many large bear-tracks were also seen, making in the
same direction. |
After travelling six miles across this undulating prairie, we
reached the right bank of the valley of Muddy Creek, twenty-five
MUDDY CREEK—TRAPPERS’ TALE. 939
miles above its confluence with Little Snake River. This stream,
which rises in the Park Mountains, here makes a valley of four
miles wide, and the descent to the bottom of the creek is from a
hundred to a hundred and fifty feet down a washed and broken
bluff of sand and clay, much worn into gullies and ravines. The
descent is too steep, where we struck the bluff, for a good wagon-
road; but, by adetour from the « Gate’’ of two miles to the south,
the descent will be very much more gradual, and the greater part
of the high, broad ridge over which we passed will be avoided.
Upon the top of this ridge I found, scattered over the surface,
a large number of silicefied petrifications of shells. Passing two
remarkable little sandstone buttes, on our right, one of which was
covered with cedars, (the first trees we had seen since leaving
Green River,) and on our left two flat-topped whitish clay or
marly mounds, connected by an escarpment, we encamped in a
deep bend of the Muddy, which was fringed with willows, having
selected the spot with the view of more securely guarding our
animals from the nocturnal attacks of any wandering bands of
Indians.
We are now upon the war-ground of several hostile tribes, who
make this region the field of mutual encounter, and increased vigi-
lance is consequently necessary to guard against a surprise—an
occurrence which, as one of its least unpleasant consequences,
might leave us on foot in the midst of the wilderness. All firing
of guns, without express permission, except in case of the most
urgent necessity, has been strictly forbidden, and every man slept
with his arms by his side.
As we were reposing our weary limbs before the camp-fire, re-
galing ourselves with a pipe, now our only luxury, Major Bridger
entertained us with one of those trappers’ legends which abound
as much among these adventurous men as the “yarns’’ so long
famous among their counterpart, the sailors, on a rival element.
A partner of his, Mr. Henry Frappe, had a party of what, in the
language of the country, are called «free men,” that is, inde-
pendent traders, who, some nine years before, were encamped
about two miles from where we then were, with their squaw part-
ners and a party of Indians. Most of the men being absent
hunting buffalo, a band of five hundred Sioux, Cheyennes, and
Arapahoes suddenly charged upon their camp, killed a white man,
an Indian, and two women, drove off a hundred and sixty head of
cattle, and, chasing the hunters, killed several of them in their
940 VALLEY OF THE MUDDY.
flight, the residue escaping only by abandoning their horses and
hiding in the bushes. Intelligence of this onslaught reached
Major Bridger, then occupied in erecting a trading-post on Green
River; he sent Frappe advice to abandon his post at once, for fear
of worse consequences. ‘The advice, however, was neglected, when,
about ten days after, as his party was on their way to join his
partner, they were again suddenly attacked by another large party
of the savage allies. He had but forty men; but they instantly
‘«‘forted”’ in the corral attached to the trading-post, and stood on
their defence. The assault lasted from noon until sundown, the
Indians charging the pickets several times with great bravery; but
they were finally repulsed with the loss of forty men. Frappe
himself was killed, with seven or eight of his people.
I give this as a sample of the perilous adventures in which these
rude and daring men, almost as wild as their savage foes, were
engaged, as things of course, and which they related around their
camp-fires with a relish quite professional.
The only vegetation at this camp was a few scattering clumps
of small willows and some black currant-bushes: the supply of
» grass was scanty. Muddy Creek runs between perpendicular cut
clay-banks, forty feet apart; the water at the present stage being
only four feet wide and four inches deep. Day’s travel, very di-
rect as to course, twenty and a-half miles. Lat. 41° 27’ 067.1;
long. 107° 52’ 41”.
Thursday, September 19.—Slight frost in the night. Ther. at
sunrise, 30°. ‘The night passed without alarm; and, crossing the
creek, we continued up its left bank, and soon reached a point
where it made a long cafion through the hills. The ground was
rough and filled with gullies made by the rush of the spring
freshets. The soil was loose and sandy, and the waters had cut
numerous deep and narrow channels across the valley, whose per-
pendicular banks obliged us to pass along the base of the bluffs, in
order to head, and thus avoid them. The creek had to be crossed
some six or eight times, and, upon the whole, this has been the
roughest and most difficult part of the route. Before noon we
passed a spot where a party of fourteen fur-traders, under Mr.
Vasquez, had «forted” and fought forty Ogallalah Sioux for four
hours, successfully defending themselves and repulsing the In-
dians. One of our men, a half-breed hunter, had himself been in
the fight, and pointed out to me the localities with the most minute
particularity of bloody detail.
BEAVER DAMS—ATLANTIC WATERS. 941
A meridian observation gave for latitude 41° 28’ 28’. A few
aspens occur in the bottom, with abundance of artemisia, some of
which were six and eight feet in height. An occasional outcrop
_ of coal was also observed; the argillaceous shale, some three hun-
dred feet in height, through which the creek cuts a channel, dip-
ping north-westerly at an angle of 20°.
Beyond this point the creek makes another cafion, which, re-
quiring some reconnoissance, we turned down into a pretty little
bottom, fringed with willows, currant-bushes, and birch, and en-
camped, having made only fourteen miles. We found the creek
filled, at short intervals, with beaver-dams, some of which had been
but recently constructed, the chips made by cutting down the
bushes, and the paths made through the grass and brush by drag-
ging them into the water, being still plainly discernible. The
stream furnishes some small fish, among which were speckled
trout.
Friday, September 20.—Morning clear and bright. Ther. at
sunrise, 31°. Clouds however soon began to gather, and finally
covered the whole sky. It had been determined to go on until ten
or eleven o’clock, and then to make a halt of part of two days to
rate our chronometers, and to obtain, if practicable, a series of
satisfactory observations for longitude. But the sun being en-
tirely obscured, and it coming on to rain, the march was con-
tinued during the day. It unexpectedly cleared in time to obtain
a meridian observation for the latitude.
Leaving the camp-ground early, we continued up the right bank
of the Muddy, over rather rough ground, covered with sage, for a
couple of miles, to within one mile of the point where the main fork
comes in from the Park Mountains on the south-east, where it
heads. Here we turned to the left up a beautiful pass, about a
mile and a-half in length, with a uniform gentle ascent to its sum-
mit. From the top of this pass we continued for four miles over
a gently undulating country, sloping to the right into the drain-
age of the Muddy. Here we reached the dividing height between
the waters of the Pacific and those of the Atlantic.
One universal shout arose at the announcement of this fact; and
visions of home and all its joys floated before the imagination in
vivid brightness. That to which we had so long been looking
forward, as a thing that might one day be, now seemed almost
within our grasp; for we knew that the waters which we had at
length reached, flowed, in one unbroken stream, almost to the very
16
249 VALLEY OF THE NORTH FORK OF THE PLATTE.
feet of those who were dearest to our hearts. Often have I ex-
perienced the same feeling, when, in the dark and solemn forest,
I have sat by my solitary camp-fire on the bank of some murmur-
ing stream. The waters seemed a connecting link with human
beings, however distant; and as I thought whither they would flow,
I felt myself not so utterly alone. None but those who have ex-
perienced it, know how much companionship there is in the gentle
murmur of a flowing stream. Such were now our sensations as
with light hearts and buoyants spirits we galloped down the grassy
slope.
Before us lay an undulating country, descending gently toward
the east; beyond, in the distance, frowned the Medicine-bow
Butte, at the foot of which flowed the waters of the Platte, while
to the southward of this famous headland stretched far away the
Park Mountains, whence issue so many tributaries to the Pacific.
From this important summit we commenced a scarcely perceptible
descent into a wide grassy hollow, forming the valley of a now dry
rivulet, which, in the spring, discharges its waters into Sage Creek,
an affluent of the North Fork of the Platte. Two miles east of
the «‘divide,’’ we halted to take a noon observation for latitude,
which placed us in 41° 83/ 22/.5, the computed longitude being
107° 30’ 48’".. Grass and water were scarce, and the growth of
artemisia very thick, making it somewhat difficult to pass our
little wagon over it. Near the mouth of this little stream we
crossed over to another, heading near to it, and running parallel
with it, upon the banks of which we encamped, after a deeply in-
teresting march of nearly twenty-two miles.
From what has been seen since crossing the summit, I am satis-
fied that it would have been better had we kept more to the south- |
ward before crossing it. If, leaving the ridge forming the south-
ern boundary of the valley, we had followed either the stream
upon which we are now encamped, or even the valley of another,
some miles still farther south, we would not only have somewhat
shortened our route, but obtained a greater abundance of grass,
wood, and water, from a high ridge which bounds all these little
streams on the south. Observations gave for latitude of the
camp 41° 35’ 41’; longitude 107° 21’ 52’. Distance from Fort
Bridger, two homaeed and seven miles.
With the exception of the rough ground near the head of
the Muddy, which offers no obstruction of consequence, a per-
fectly feasible, and indeed a most excellent route, whether for a
SAGE CREEK—NORTH FORK OF THE PLATTE. 943
wagon or railroad, has thus been traced, presenting fewer obsta-
cles to the construction of either than almost any tract of the
same length in the country. The grades will be easy, the bridg-
ing comparatively light; and, with the exception of the crossing
of the valley of the Muddy, where a long and heavy embankment
may be required, the cuttings and fillings will be entirely within
moderate limits. In no case will an inclined plane be required ; and
the route is more than usually free from the objection of high and
narrow caiions, liable to be filled up or obstructed by snow during
the winter.
Saturday, September 21.—Morning clear and bright. Ther.
at sunrise, 35°. Ice formed in the buckets during the night.
Passing down the right bank of the little drain upon which we had
encamped, we encountered the usual impediments from thick arte-
misia, and numerous little gullies, many of which were deep and
difficult to cross. To avoid them, we turned more to the south, and
crossed Sage Creek, an affluent of the Platte, about four miles
above its mouth. The water was eight feet wide, and three or
four inches deep, with a free current, and vertical clay banks.
This part of the route was over a sand and clay soil, denuded of
vegetation, and strewn over with black schorl gravel, and an im-
mense quantity of white quartz pebbles, in angular fragments,
that did not seem to have been water-worn.
After the crossing of Sage Creek, upon approaching the Platte,
we encountered many ravines coming down from a ridge on our |
right, the intervening ground being washed almost entirely bare of
grass or vegetation of any kind. In many places the surface of
the ground was covered with small broken fragments of crystallized
’ sulphate of lime, of a rich brown colour, mostly as clear as mica,
(for which, indeed, it was at first mistaken,) and many specimens
were perfectly transparent. Large quantities of pure white quartz
gravel, also, were brought down from the hills, and lay mingled
with the gypsum.
After a march of sixteen miles, we encamped on the left bank
of the North Fork of the Platte, in a lovely bottom, amid picturesque
groves and clumps of gigantic cotton-woods. The ground was
covered with a luxuriant growth of nutritious grasses, among which
buffalo-grass was quite abundant.
In this region the bottom land is principally confined to the left
bank, and is from a quarter to half a mile in width. On the right
bank are escarpments of rock a hundred and fifty or two hundred
— 244 NORTH FORK—INDIAN FORTIFICATIONS.
feet in height—the cliffs rising abruptly from the water’s edge.
The formation consists of horizontal strata of a soft, coarse, brown
sandstone, overlaid by bituminous shales, above which are clay and
earthy marl, the whole capped with a heavy stratum of sandstone.
The river in its present stage is one hundred and sixty feet wide
and two feet deep; the bed consisting of gravel, rolled pebbles, and
boulders, among which a red feldspathic granite, gneiss, granite,
quartz, and a very compact, firm-grained, ferruginous limestone are
the most prevalent.
The cotton-woods round our camp are the first trees, worthy of
the name, that have greeted our eyes for more than a year. They
seemed to us like old friends, and, as they waved in the fresh breeze
over our heads, reminded us of those beloved woodlands from which
we have been so long separated. Oh! with what longing desire
had we looked forward to such a sight; while our souls, sick of
rolling prairies, barren plains, bald and rocky ridges, muddy flats,
and sandy wastes, sought in vain for the forest shade and those
hills of living verdure which give the charm to every landscape.
Day after day, week after week, had we journeyed over that deso-
late basin, without a tree to be seen in the whole horizon. But now
the rustling sound of embowering leaves assured us that we had
once more reached a spot fitted by nature for the habitation of
man.
The place we now occupy has long been a favourite camp-ground
for the numerous war-parties which annually meet in this region to
hunt buffalo and one another. Remains of old Indian stockades are
met with scattered about among the thickets; and the guide in-
formed us, that four years since there were at one and the same
time, upon this one bottom, fifteen or twenty of these forts, con- -
structed by different tribes. Most of them have since been de-
stroyed by fire. As this was the season of the year when we might
expect to find them upon their expeditions, we were on the quz vive, .
lest we should be surprised. Arms were inspected and put in
order and a vigilant guard kept during the night.
It had been intended to reach this camp by ten in the morning,
so as to rate the chronometers and take lunar observations for the
longitude. We arrived, however, barely in time to obtain a me-
ridional observation, which gave our latitude 41° 82’ 49/.2. Com-
puted longitude, 107° 6’ 11’.
One of the pack-mules, having for his burden all the flour be-
longing to the officers’ mess, had, by some oversight, been left
COTTON-WOOD GROVES—INDIAN FORTS. 945
behind at the morning’s encampment, nor was the incident dis-
covered until near the end of the day’s march. ‘Two men were
immediately sent back to recover him, but returned unsuccessful.
They declared that the creature must have hidden himself pur-
posely in the thicket near the camp—a trick to which it is said
some of these animals are addicted. A detail of six men was
ordered to start back for him early in the morning.
Archambault killed a remarkably fat buffalo cow to-day, which
gave us plenty of the finest beef. Side and hump ribs, and buffalo
hump—that precious morsel of all mountain connoisseurs—graced
our humble board, (or rather the top of our mess-chest,) and we.
only needed the presence of dear but absent friends to render our.
dainty repast all that an epicure could desire. Another cow was
also killed, which contained a dead and thoroughly dried foetus,
about one-third grown, which had apparently been enclosed in the
uterus and preserved for a long time. The hunters say that such
is not an unfrequent occurrence.
Sunday, September 22.—We remained at this pleasant camp all
the day, being Sunday. The detail sent after the missing pack-
horse returned about one o’clock, having discovered him, with his
pack undisturbed, hidden in the brush in the vicinity of the camp
of yesterday morning.
The day was warm and balmy, with fresh breezes ftom the north-
west. The evening closed with heavy gusts of wind from the
south-west, with appearance of rain. Several herds of buffalo
were seen during the day.
Monday, September 23.—Morning warm and cloudy. High
wind during the night, with a slight sprinkle of rain. We followed
up the left bank of the Platte, in an eastern direction, when we
crossed it on a ripple, witha depth of eighteen inches. Swift
current, clear, transparent water, rolled stones and _ pebbly
bottom.
A large portion of the way from camp was through a natural
park of noble cotton-wood trees, sixty feet high, and two and three
feet in diameter, and over a rich level bottom, covered with a luxu-
riant growth of grass. Major Bridger informs me that, for twenty
miles above, the river presents the same beautiful appearance, every
little bottom formed by the windings of the stream being covered
by a growth similar to that through which we had just passed.
Immediately above where we crossed, were about twenty Indian
forts, or lodges constructed of logs set up endwise, somewhat in
946 MEDICINE-BOW BUTTE.
the form of an ordinary skin lodge, which had been erected among
the timber by different war-parties: they appeared to be wie
strong, and were ball-proof.
From the river we turned more to the northward, in order to
pass around the northern end of Medicine-bow Butte, a small iso-
lated mountain, detached from the main range immediately south
of it. The ground rose gently for nine miles, when we reached
the bank of a small stream issuing from the pass between the
butte and the range just referred to.
It was through this gorge that Fremont passed in 1842; but as
he had represented it as very rough, and our guides declared it to
.be wholly unfit for the passage of wagons, it was determined to
look for a route farther to the northward. We halted to noon on
this little stream, to which we gave the name of « Pass Oreek,”’
and to take a meridian observation, which gave the latitude 41°
87’ 15/.8. Crossing this creek and passing over a pretty little
prairie, covered with grass, now cropped close by herds of buffalo
and antelope, we continued our journey near the northern base of
the butte for about ten miles. At night, we encamped upon a
branch of Rattlesnake Creek, at the foot of a spur, the sides of
which were covered with a heavy growth of pine. The route tra-
velled from the Platte has been too far to the right for a good
wagon-road. By following up a wide, smooth valley running
parallel with our route, and about a quarter of a. mile to the left,
an excellent road may be obtained, with a regular ascent, until
reaching the south branch of Rattlesnake Creek, where some un-
even ground, but presenting no material obstruction, will have to
be encountered.
Numerous bands of buffalo and antelope were seen during the
day, and in the afternoon, a monstrous bull was killed; but the
hunters took only a piece of hide from the back, to bth: lash-
ropes for the packs, the marrow-bones from the hindlegs, and the
tongue, leaving at the very least six hundred weight of good beef
on the ground for the wolves and the ravens. In several places
along the route to-day, I noticed fragments of white crystallized
sulphate of lime, bituminous shale, clay-slate, and marble; and
after striking the valley of Rattlesnake Creek, indications of coal.
Latitude of camp by observation, 41° 40’ 45’’.2. Longitude, 106°
43/ 87’. Day’s march, twenty-three miles. |
Tuesday, September 24.—Ther. at sunrise, 51°. Last night
was cloudy, and we lost an observation of Altair. A good one of
BUFFALO-BUTCHERING ‘‘ MOUNTAIN FASHION.”’ Q47
Polaris was however obtained, about midnight, which gave the
latitude. ©
Early in the morning, a large herd of buffalo was seen quietly
feeding on the side of a high hill, about a mile to the southward.
_ Archambault was soon in the saddle, and, approaching through a
ravine, which concealed him from their sight, he reached the top
of the hill immediately above them undiscovered. The whole herd
was in full view of the camp, then busily engaged in packing the
mules for the day’s march. Soon the crack of a rifle and the
sudden fall of one of the dark objects on the hillside gave notice
that the, work of destruction had commenced. Keeping himself
concealed behind a large rock, the hunter very leisurely shot
down four of these monsters, although one was much more than
we could carry with us. When, satisfied with his morning’s success,
he showed himself from behind his breastwork, the whole band
scoured off as fast as they could “tumble ahead.” I rode up to
the scene of this wanton butchery, and, for the first time, witnessed
the operation of cutting up a buffalo.
Contrary to the custom among us, the skinning process com-
mences by making an incision along the top of the backbone, and
separating the hide downward, so as to get the more quickly at
what are considered the choice parts of the animal. ‘These are
the “bass,” a hump projecting from the back of the neck just be-
fore the shoulders, and which is generally removed with the skin
attached: it is about the size of a man’s head, and, when boiled,
resembles marrow, being exceedingly tender, rich, and nutritious.
Next comes the “hump,” and the «hump ribs,” projections of the
vertebre just behind the shoulders, some of which are a foot in
length. These are generally broken off by a mallet made of the
lower joint of one of the forelegs, cut off for the purpose. After
these come the “fleece,” the portion of flesh covering the ribs;
the “depuis,” a broad, fat part extending from the shoulders to
the tail; the «belly fleece;” some of the ribs, called «side ribs,”’
to distinguish them from the hump ribs; the thigh or marrow-
bones, and the tongue. Generally the animal is opened and the
tenderloin and tallow secured. All the rest, including the hams
_ and shoulders—indeed, by far the greater portion of the animal—is
left on the ground. When buffalo are plenty, the hump, bass, and
tongue—very frequently only the latter—are taken, and occa-
sionally a marrow-bone for a tit-bit.
This is called butchering “ mountain fashion,” and a most bar
948 MEDICINE-BOW RIVER.
barous fashion it is. The bulls are never killed for food except in
case of necessity, their flesh being very inferior to that of the
cows; but an old mountaineer cannot resist the temptation of a
fair shot at one when it offers.
It is vain to remonstrate against this wholesale destruction.
The hunter, this morning, rather plumed himself on his great
moderation in only killing four, when it was wholly within his
power to kill as many as he pleased: at the same time he knew
that one would have amply supplied all our wants. Indeed, of the
four killed, but three were butchered, (that is, the choice parts
only taken away,) and we left the ground, having two pack-mules
and all the riding-horses loaded down with meat, the fourth
animal being wholly untouched; thus abandoning to beasts of
prey enough of the richest and sweetest beef.to supply a very
respectable market for a week. All intercession in favour of the
poor buffalo is looked upon by these old mountain-men with a
strange mixture of wonder and contempt, which strongly reminded
me of the expression of honest Dandie Dinmont, in Scott’s ad-
mirable tale of Guy Mannering: «Weel, that’s queer aneugh!
Lord save us! to care about a brock!”
The train, in the mean time, had moved forward, ascending a
dry branch of Rattlesnake Creek, running HE. N. E., with a
gradual rise. Reaching its head, in a low gap, we attained the
summit, and struck upon a hollow or depression leading down to a
small branch, which, rising near the northern end of Medicine-
bow Butte, winds its way through a broad and lovely valley, and
discharges its waters into the Medicine-bow River.
The route led us over some swelling ridges making toward this
branch from the mountains on our right, and, crossing three other
little streams, tributary to it, we reached in ten and a-half miles
the banks of the Medicine-bow River. Here we encamped in a
thicket of tall timber and underbrush, on an old Indian cam
ground; the remains of several old forts, now decayed and in
ruins, being still visible.
On its north-western, northern, and north-eastern sides, the
Medicine-bow Butte is surrounded by a well-defined ridge, from
which it is separated by a broad intervening valley, the ridge ap-
pearing to be concentric with this part of the butte, and three or
four miles distant from it. Through this the Medicine-bow River
breaks, passing for twenty miles between vertical walls of rock
with wide alternate bottoms on either side.
GAME—RUNNING BUFFALO. 949
The scenery from the «divide’’ was in beautiful contrast with
that of the country left behind us. Broad and grassy valleys
were spread out before us, bounded by low rounded hills covered
with verdure, over which ranged bands of buffalo, while little
flocks of antelope bounded gracefully around us. The low bottom
of the Medicine-bow, upon which we are encamped, is thickly
covered with excellent grass, and the stream has an extensive
fringe of willows and rose-bushes, with occasional groves of cotton-
wood and aspens. The night was too cloudy to admit of an ob-
servation; but a meridian altitude of the sun gave for latitude
41° 41! 50/9. -
Wednesday, September 25.—The wind blew furiously all night;
and as we had for so long a time been unaccustomed to the sound
of the blast rushing through a forest, our slumbers were frequently
broken by the apprehension lest the tall trees, beneath whose
spreading branches we had encamped, should be blown down upon
our heads. Immediately upon leaving camp, we crossed the Me-
dicine-bow, and ascended a high bluff, whence Laramie’s Peak was
distinctly visible, bearing north, 45° east. The route continued
_ over a rolling country, crossing several small streams heading in
the Medicine-bow Mountains on our right. Game was seen during
the day, in greater abundance than we had yet met with it; and,
from the fact of our being off the great line of emigration, the
buffalo were quite tame, some of the old bulls allowing us to ap-
proach very near to them and moving off quite lazily. The ante-
lope, too, seemed to regard us with more curiosity than fear, and
repeatedly stopped within shot to take a good look at us, and then
trotted off entirely at their leisure. Being already supplied with
meat from yesterday’s slaughter, we suffered them to frisk’ around
us unmolested; scorning to touch venison when buffalo-meat was
so abundant.
An incident occurred in the course of the morning which came
near proving fatal to my friend, Lieutenant Gunnison. Seeing a
small band of buffalo near at hand, he started on his horse to run
one of them down, as the creature’s hide was wanted for the repair
of our little wagon. The train had passed on for about a mile,
when one of the men galloped up and reported that Lieutenant
Gunnison’s horse had thrown him, and that he was fearful some-
thing serious had happened. I instantly rode rapidly to the
point indicated; and found my excellent officer partially delirious,
reclining on the ground, his face and hands covered with blood, and
we
250 ) HAPPY ESCAPE—FRAPPE’S CREEK.
his horse, a fine roan, lying dead by his side. The scene was soon
explained. When starting after the buffalo, Mr. G. had handed
his gun to one of the party, and, drawing a revolver from his
holster, set off in pursuit. In crossing a narrow ravine his horse
had stumbled and nearly fallen: the nervous contraction of the fin-
gers caused by the endeavour to save himself had occasioned the
discharge of the pistol, the ball of which, passing directly through
the neck of the horse, had killed him instantly; and his rider was
hurled with great violence to the ground. I was much relieved to
find that no bones were broken, and that, with the exception of
some severe scratches, and a violent jar of the system, nothing
very serious had happened. It was a narrow escape, however ;
for a broken bone, so far from surgical aid, would have proved no
light matter. After the detention of an hour, Lieutenant G. was
mounted upon another horse, and accompanied the train as usual,
his ambition for running buffaloes entirely satisfied.
A meridian altitude of the sun gave for latitude 41° 38’ 38/7.6.
Laramie Peak bearing north 29° 80’ east, mag. The afternoon’s
march was over a beautiful rolling country, lying at the foot of
the Medicine-bow Mountains, whence issued several small streams,
emerging from narrow cafions, their sides clothed with cotton-
wood, aspen, and cedars—their windings through the plains to the
northward being distinctly traceable by the rich belts of green
that clothed their banks. The soil was sandy, and profusely
covered with small fragments of white, smoky, and rose quartz,
very pure, and in many cases nearly translucent, which had been
washed down from the mountains. We made but one march to-
day, and, crossing the east fork of the Medicine Bow, encamped
three miles below, upon the banks of Frappe’s Creek, one of its
tributaries. The east fork, where we crossed it, is about forty
feet wide and one foot deep, flowing with a rapid current and pure
limpid water over a pebbly bed. The bottom of this pretty little
stream is about a mile wide, well covered with grass, and tolerably
wooded with cotton-woods and aspens. The mountain-sides on our
right have been well clothed with fir and pine. Frappe’s Creek is
so called from the fact of Mr. Frappe having been some years
since robbed, at the mouth of this stream, of a band of sixty
horses, by a party of Aricarrees. Day’s march, seventeen miles.
Lat. 41° 33’ 6’... Long. 106° 15’ 58”.
Thursday, September 26.—Morning clear. Ther. at sunrise,
48°, A high wind from the south-west. ‘To-day we entered the
, LARAMIE PLAINS—ALARM. 251
Laramie Plains, and travelled over a beautiful rolling country,
covered with grass, with here and there a small lake or pond,
formed in the low grounds by the drainage from the neighbouring
hills. A meridian observation gave the latitude 41° 28’ 16”.
From this point we took a course a little to the south of east, for
a prominent landmark which rises near the heads of Lodge-pole
Creek, an affluent of the South Fork of the Platte, and in ten miles
reached the western fork of the Laramie River, upon the left bank
of which we encamped. ‘The river is twenty feet wide and eight or
ten inches deep, flowing with a rapid current over a bed of peb-
bles. The bottom is about four miles wide, with abundance of
fuel and grass. The trace to-day has been rather undulating ; but
an excellent road can be located without difficulty. Buffalo have
been very numerous and tame. Day’s march, twenty-one miles.
Latitude, by observation, 41° 19’ 43/4. Long. 105° 57’ 12”.
Friday, September 27.—Clear and calm. Ther. at sunrise
41°. Slight frost on the grass in the low grounds. Crossing
the west fork of the Laramie River, our course was nearly due
east, over a gently rolling prairie. The trace is smooth, and had
we crossed the Laramie Fork about a mile to the northward, it
would have been as level as could possibly be desired, with not a
bush or ravine to obstruct the passage. The timber which clothes
the hills on the south ceases at their base. Artemisia has entirely
disappeared.
About eleven o’clock, two of the scouts who had kept on the left
flank of our little party were descried descending from the hills at
full gallop, waving their hats, and giving the alarm of Indians.
We were at the time in the midst of a broad prairie, toward which
rolling ridges sloped gently on either hand, and at a considerable
distance before us rose a bold prairie ridge: not a bush or a tree
was to be seen which could be converted into a covert for defence.
The train was immediately halted, the pack-mules and loose ani-
mals caught up and led by their halters to prevent them straying
from the band, and the men were formed into two lines behind our
little wagon, between which the led animals were driven, the
whole being closed up by a guard in the rear. In a few minutes
our simple arrangements were completed, and we moved forward
over the plain, prepared to make as stout a resistance as circum-
stances would permit.
In a hollow on our right lay two lakes, or ponds, and some three
miles ahead ran the main fork of the Laramie. Herds of buffalo
952 ANTICIPATED ATTACK OF INDIANS. :
were seen rapidly emerging from the little hollows on our left and
spreading in great confusion over the plain—a sure indication that
they had been disturbed by some cause behind the hills. At length
scattered bands of mounted Indians were discovered moving rapidly
at a considerable distance before us; and occasionally a look-out
could be seen motionless upon the summit of some elevated mound,
apparently watching our movements. At noon a short halt was
ordered near some ponds of water, and a meridian altitude of
the sun taken, which gave the latitude 41° 15’ 41’.4. We then
moved forward, and, in three miles, reached the main fork of the
Laramie, a beautiful little stream of pure, cold water, about fifty
feet wide, and eighteen inches deep, flowing with a free current to
the northward, between low grassy banks, over a bed of pebbles
and gravel. It had been intended simply to make a short nooning
here, and then to push forward toward the heads of the Lodge- |
pole Creek with all possible speed. This intention was frustrated,
however, by the appearance of the Indians, who were discovered
moving toward us from various points and in considerable numbers.
Uncertain of their intentions, or of the amount of their force, I
deemed it prudent to prepare for their reception.
About a quarter of a mile above us, on the right bank of the
stream, was an isolated little grove of cotton-woods, of which I de-
termined to take possession, and there to await the approach of our
red brethren: this was accordingly done; the animals were taken
into the grove and picketed. In a short time, by felling a few
trees and piling up such as were found lying upon the ground, an
enclosure was constructed, which a strong force of Indians would
have found it somewhat difficult to carry in the face of thirty rifles.
In the mean time, Indian scouts made their appearance upon the
surrounding hills, reconnoitring us, and seemed to be as uncertain
of our character and intentions as we were of theirs. Having
completed our little field-work, the United States flag was display-
ed, and we sat down to lunch, having eaten nothing since sunrise.
Finding the Indians only hovered around at a distance, Major
Bridger, shouldering his rifle, walked out toward them, and made
various signs to an advance party that came out to meet him. We
soon perceived that they had recognised him; when, finding that
we were white men, and not a hostile band of Indians as they had
supposed, they commenced a perfect race for our camp, and in a
few minutes a stream of Indians galloped up, holding out their
hands to shake with any and every body they met. They proved
OGALLALAH SIOUX—CHEYENNE OHIEF. 2595
to be a large band of Ogallalahs, (one of the numerous bands
of Sioux,) who had discovered us early in the morning, and
had been anxiously watching our movements all the day, having
mistaken us for a war-party of Crows. As soon as they saw
the flag displayed, they knew at once that we were whites, but
had hesitated to approach us, through fear of the small-pox,
which they represented as raging below and in the neighbourhood
of Fort Laramie. They had fled hither to avoid it, and were
much alarmed lest we should have it among us. Being assured
to the contrary, they poured in upon us from all quarters, and our
camp was soon crowded with them. Several of the chiefs and
head men had certificates from the commanding officer at Fort
Laramie, and from different emigrant companies, as to their friendly
character, which they handed to me with an empressement which
showed the great importance they attached to them. Some coffee,
flour, and sugar were served out to them, together with all the
tobacco I could spare; and after a plentiful repast, they departed
for their village on the Laramie, about two miles below, with every
demonstration of good-will. The head chief, who rejoiced in the
very original title of «« Buffalo Dung,” gave me a warm invitation
to pay him a visit in the morning; which I promised to do.
The band consisted of several hundred: they were, for the most
part, fine-looking men, straight, tall, and athletic, and generally
well mounted. I afterward learned that as soon as they recog-
nised our flag, and became satisfied as to our character, they
had sent word to the spot selected for their temporary camping-
ground, whereupon the squaws, reassured, immediately commenced
putting up the lodges; and before sundown the plain was white
with them.
Among the Sioux was one solitary, dignified old Cheyenne chief,
who figured in the undress frock of a major of artillery, buttoned
closely up to his throat, and of which he seemed not a little vain.
To my surprise, I found that he did not understand the Sioux
tongue at all, and communicated with those of that tribe wholly by
signs. The Sioux chief with the unpronounceable name, the trans-
lation of which has already been given, was a noble-looking old
man, and very much disposed to be sociable. He explained to me
that he was greatly afflicted with sore eyes, and begged for some-
thing to cure them. I had nothing but an old pair of goggles,
with very dark green glasses, which I gave him, and with which he
was very much delighted, mounting them with great complacercy,
254 INDIAN LANGUAGE OF SIGNS.
although it was then very nearly dark. With a spy-glass, also,
they were very much pleased, and through it watched the erection
of their lodges with great wonder and interest. A Colt’s revolver,
when explained to them, excited many remarks, and evidently in-
creased their respect for the strength of our little party. |
There was one circumstance, however, that attracted my attention
in this interview with these untutored sons of the forest more than
any other; and that was the perfection and precision to which they
appear to have reduced a system of purely arbitrary and conven-
tional signs, by which, all over this vast region, intercourse, though
of a limited character, may be held between tribes who are perfect
strangers to each other’s tongue. After partaking of such food as
could be hastily prepared for them, the principal men seated them-
selves on the ground, in a circle around the camp-fire in front of
the tent, and the pipe of peace was filled and duly circulated in
regular succession. Our esteemed friend and experienced moun- .
taineer, Major Bridger, who was personally known to many of our
visitors, and to all of them by the repute of his numerous exploits,
was seated among us. Although intimately acquainted with the
languages of the Crows, Blackfeet, and most of the tribes west and
north-west of the Rocky Mountain chain, he was unable to speak
to either the Sioux or Cheyennes in their own tongue, or that of
any tribe which they could understand. Notwithstanding this, he
held the whole circle, for more than an hour, perfectly enchained
and evidently most deeply interested in a conversation and narra-
tive, the whole of which was carried on without the utterance of a
single word. The simultaneous exclamations of surprise or interest,
and the occasional bursts of hearty laughter, showed that the whole
party perfectly understood not only the theme, but the minutiz of
the pantomime exhibited before them. I looked on with close at-
tention, but the signs to me were for the most part altogether unin-
telligible. Upon after inquiry, I found that this language of signs
is universally understood by all the tribes.
At sundown the whole band left for their village; previous to
which, a venerable old Indian traversed the camp, haranguing the
young men in an elevated and monotonous tone, the purport of his
exhortation being, as I was told, a warning to them not to touch
or meddle with any of our property. But the old man’s advice was
of little avail; for we ascertained, soon after their departure, that
a couple of axes, a blanket, and an excellent rifle had mysteriously
disappeared. ; ?
SIOUX VILLAGE—BUFFALO-DUNG—THE IRON HEART. 255
Saturday, September 28.—Morning clear and bright. At an
early hour several of our yesterday’s visitors were on the ground,
in the hope of securing a good breakfast. We mentioned to them
our loss of the previous evening, and they promised to do what
they could to recover our property. The train was directed to
move forward under the charge of Major Bridger; while, accom-
panied by a whole troop of Indians, I rode over to the village to
pay my respects to the chief, according to promise. ‘This village
was the largest and by far the best-looking of any I had ever seen.
It consisted of nearly one hundred lodges, most of which were en-
tirely new, pitched upon the level prairie which borders on the
verdant banks of the Laramie. No regular order seemed to be
observed in their position, but each builder appeared to have se-
lected the site for his habitation according to his own fancy.
We rode at once to the lodge of the chief, which was painted in
broad horizontal stripes of alternate black and white, and, on the
side opposite to the entrance, was ornamented with large black
crosses on a white ground. We found the old fellow sitting on the
floor of his lodge, and his squaw busily engaged over a few coals,
endeavouring to fry, or rather to boil, in a pan nearly filled with
grease, some very suspicious-looking lumps of dough, made doubt-
less from the flour they had received from us yesterday. The chief
courteously invited us to take something to eat, which, having the
fear of the very questionable lumps aforesaid before our eyes, we
modestly declined. By the aid of one of my men who had been
among these tribes for two years, I made out to inform him that
some of his young men had, when on a visit to our camp yesterday,
stolen some of our property, and requested him to take measures
for its restoration. He at once said that there were in the compa-
ny of visitors a number of Cheyenne Indians, and that they, and
not the Siouxs, (or « Dahcotahs,” as they all called themselves,). must
have been the depredators. He promised, however, to send out the
erier, and try to ascertain whether the things could not be re-
covered. I soon recognised the cry of the old Indian of yesterday,
who went around the village making proclamation of the loss.
After some further conversation, another chief, named the «Iron
Heart,” rose up and invited us to a feast at his lodge: we accord-
ingly accompanied him, and found him occupying the largest and
most complete structure in the village, although I was assured that
the Sioux frequently make them much larger. It was intended to
be used whenever required, for the accommodation of any casual
256 SIOUX LODGE—BUFFALO-FEAST—SUPERSTITION.
trader that might come among them for the purpose of traffic, and
was accordingly called «The Trader’s Lodge.” It was made of
twenty-six buffalo-hides, perfectly new, and white as snow, which,
being sewed together without a wrinkle, were stretched over twenty-
four new poles, and formed a conical tent of thirty feet diameter
upon the ground, and thirty-five feet in height.
After we had seated ourselves upon the skins provided for our
accommodation, the pipe was duly passed around, and the feast
was introduced. It consisted of a tin pan containing a parcel of
dried buffalo-meat, which had been boiled in simple water, with-
out salt, and suffered to get cold. This was brought in by an old
squaw, and placed upon the ground before us, with a basin of water.
Although we had not long before breakfasted heartily upon roasted
rib and tender-loin, we were in courtesy obliged to partake of this
rather lean fare with apparent satisfaction, notwithstanding that
the pan containing it looked as if a thorough cleansing would most
materially have improved its appearance. We accordingly ate a
morsel or two, when, most fortunately, an old Indian came in,
who, after taking a few whiffs of the pipe which was passing round,
reached out his hand for the pan,.and very soon discussed the
whole of its contents without the slightest scruple.
The feast being finished, we rose to take our leave; when the
chief courteously motioned us to remain, saying that they were
haranguing the village in hopes of recovering our lost property.
Although I had not the least idea that we should ever see any of
the stolen articles again, yet we continued to sit, listenmg to the
bellman-like proclamation going on outside, until at length I
explained to the chief that I could wait no longer; that my young
men had gone forward, and that it was necessary I should overtake
them; whereupon we shook hands and parted. He was a remark-
ably fine-looking man, of about forty-five, with a face denoting
strong character, great firmness, and yet, as I thought, a kind
heart. His influence with his people was said to be very great.
One thing in his manner struck me with surprise: I observed,
during our interview, that he always passed the pipe without smok-
ing; and upon afterward inquiring the reason of an omission so -
unusual, found that it was “against his medicine’ to smoke in the
presence of others, and that whenever he indulged in this Indian
luxury, it was when alone. Returning to the lodge of the fat old
chief, whose merry laugh and cheerful physiognomy denoted a
great love of fun, and not a little of good eating, we soon found that
INDIAN LAWS OF HUNTING—BLACK HILLS. as
all hopes of the lost rifle were vain, and immediately left the
village.
This band of Ogallalah Sioux was about a hundred lodges strong,
and seemed to possess a large number of fine horses, as well as a
good many excellent mules; the latter procured, no doubt, by
trading with the emigrants along the road to California and
Oregon.
From the village we pursued a south-east course to overtake the
train, which, after passing in an easterly direction over a level
grassy prairie, with plenty of fine water, had ascended the western
slope of the Black Hills. Having ridden a mile or two, we enjoyed
an opportunity of witnessing what is technically called a «sur-
round” of buffalo, by a band of about fifty Indians on horseback.
The poor animals were in great confusion and terror, the Indians
being in full pursuit. We did not halt to see the end of the hunt.
During the chase a small band was driven near us, and a fine fat
cow was secured by a shot from one of my revolvers. A mile or
two farther on, we found a couple of our hunters very amicably
engaged in dividing the carcass of another buffalo with half a
dozen Indians, who laid claim to a share of the prey, on the
ground, that although the buffalo was actually killed by the white
men, one of their own number had first wounded it; in proof of
which they pointed to an arrow deeply buried in its side. The
claim was cheerfully admitted, and the game in consequence equally
shared. The Indians told us that to the eastward of this point we
would see no more buffalo; in this, however, they proved to be
mistaken. At the western base of the ridge we passed through
another village of fifty lodges of the same tribe, who were moving
to the southward.
For the last seven or eight miles, the prairie has been strewn
with the carcasses of buffalo, from which the choice pieces only
had been selected by these untutored epicures, leaving the remainder,
from which they had not taken the trouble even to remove the skin.
Carcasses thus left, on the open prairie are not unfrequently com-
pletely cured, or rather « mummified,’ in the sun, so that they
seldom exhibit any sign of decay.
Ascending the western slope of the Black Hills by a very gentle
rise, we followed the trail of our party, passing between low cliffs
and detached masses of red and gray sandstone, worn into isolated
pillars, hillocks, and other forms by the action of the elements.
The beds appeared to be thick and extensive, but the strata were
| 17
258 HEADS OF LODGE POLE AND CROW CREEKS.
thin, varying from half an inch to six inches, between which an
occasional layer of brown and reddish argillaceous limestone was
found interposed.
Passing over an undulating and gradually rising country, for
seven or eight miles, we at length overtook the trai, which had
halted to noon on a small tributary of the Laramie River. Aspen,
fir, pme, and cedar here occurred in scattering clumps, and the
grass has been abundant. From this point we continued our
course more to the north-east for four or five miles, over ground
considerably cut up by ravines, when we reached the summit of
the ridge, which gives rise to the head of Lodge-pole Creek, an
affluent of the South Fork of the Platte, into which it discharges
its waters nearly south of Ash Hollow, and about seventy miles-
above the junction of the two great branches which form that well-
known stream. lLodge-pole Creek here takes its rise in a high
ridge, and falling with a rapid and sudden descent, forms a deep
and precipitous cafion, at the bottom of which it continues to wind
its way until it reaches the plain at the foot of the eastern slope
of the Black Hills. It is represented as having a width between
the cliffs which enclose its valley, sufficient for a road, by crossing
the stream from side to side; but I was deterred from attempting
the passage, not only by the rugged descent from the ridge, but
by the quantity of timber growing in the cafion, through which it
would have been necessary to cut our way the whole distance. In
addition to this, the ridge appeared to be much lower to the south-
ward, in the direction of the heads of Box-elder River and Fon-
taine qui bouit, while, toward the northward, it appeared to be-
come higher and still more rugged. This induced me to believe
that we had crossed the ridge too far to the northward, and that a
more feasible route could be traced south of our line of travel, by
which much of the elevation we had attained (which si oe to
about a thousand feet) might be avoided.
We accordingly followed down the ridge in a 8.58. EH. direction
for six miles, when we struck upon a little stream, which we sup-
posed to be a branch of Lodge-pole, but which, as we afterward
ascertained from some Cheyenne Indians, was a branch of Crow
Creek, another affluent of the South Fork, and which flows into it
from this point in a north-easterly direction. Here we encamped
‘for the night, with good grass and water, after a very interesting,
though somewhat fatiguing journey of twenty-two miles. Immense
droves of buffalo were seen in every direction during the day. An
ree Tl on ee eS ee ee ee
i
EASTERN SLOPE OF THE BLACK HILLS. 259
observation of Altair gave for the latitude of the camp, 41° 8’ 2’;
long. 105° 24’ 11.”
Sunday, September 29.—Ther. at sunrise, 28°. After passing
through about two miles of pine and aspen woods, the country be-
came a rolling prairie, which obliged us to wind about considerably
among the hills to avoid the undulations of the ground. Our gene-
ral course was east for eleven miles, when, descending the eastern
slope of the ridge, we,struck upon the heads of a little stream
issuing from a rugged cafion of red feldspathic granite, at the base
of the hills, and flowing into the plain below. We learned from a
band of Cheyennes, who paid us a visit about sundown, that this
was another branch of Crow Creek. Here the main ridge of the
Black Hills suddenly falls off into a range of lower elevation,
which again slopes to a plateau of clayey and earthy marl. The
timber which had clothed the ridge ceases upon reaching the plain,
but the stream is fringed with willows. Where the creek issued
from the cafion, wild cherries, and yellow, red, and black currants
occurred in great profusion and fully ripe. The yellow variety
was particularly good, resembling in flavour a mellow sour apple.
From our noon halt of yesterday, the formation has consisted
chiefly of massive red feldspathic granite, with an occasional heavy
out-crop of ferruginous quartz. Following down this branch for
four miles, we encamped on its left bank, with good grass and water.
A village of Cheyennes was encamped a short distance to the north
of us, who, as soon as they descried our party, immediately paid
us a visit. They hung around the cook-fires till the guard was set
for the night, when I notified the chief of the fact, and desired
him to send his people away, at the same time informing him that
should any attempt be made during the night to disturb our ani-
mals, the guard had positive directions to fire upon the marauders.
He made them an harangue to this effect, and they immediately
left us, some for a ride of ten miles back to the vicinity of our
morning encampment, whence they had followed and accompanied
us during the day, partly from curiosity, and partly from the hopes
of a plentiful meal. Day’s march fourteen and a-half miles. Liati-
tude by observation 41° 9/ 3/.5; longitude 105° 8’ 24”,
Monday, September 30.—The camp was up long before daylight,
and we were on the road by sunrise. Finding that the branch of
Crow Creek, upon which we had encamped, passed too much to the
southward for our purposes, we turned our faces to the north, and
followed along the base of the Black Hills, about four miles distant,
a
260 CHEYENNE PASS.
crossing the hills and hollows formed by the drains coming from
them, the undulations, however, being quite gentle. On our right,
about two miles distant, stretched a high table ridge, or plateau,
rising one hundred and fifty or two hundred feet, its western escarp-
ments abrupt, nearly vertical, and capped in this vicinity by argil-
laceous limestone and sandstones, with occasional strata of pud-
ding-stone. Between this plateau on our right and the Black
Hills on our left, there is a marked depression or valley, averaging
about four miles in width, and which appears to have been cut out
by the violent action of an immense body of water flowing in a
northern direction. The valley extends along the base of the
Black Hills, from where we first descended their eastern slope, to
the Chugwater ; the range of marly hills reaching, as our guides
told us, to the Platte, in the vicinity of Scott’s Bluffs, and thence to
«Chimney Rock” and «The Court-house.’” The formation ap-
peared to be the same as that observed at those localities. The
depression thus formed is called the «« Cheyenne Pass,” from the
constant use made of it by that tribe in their migrations to and from
the Platte. From the red caijion of Crow Creek to some distance
down the Chugwater, a range of lower hills, apparently of lime and
sandstone of different colours and qualities, occurs, flanking and
following the general direction of the main back-bone of the Black
Hills. Through these, the numerous streams which take their
rise in the ridge beyond have forced a passage in deep, narrow,
and rugged cafions, and, after crossing the Cheyenne Pass, have
broken through the marly plateau on our right, in their passage
through the plains to the eastward into the North and South Forks
of the Platte. |
Following the Cheyenne Pass nine miles from our morning’s
camp, after crossing the north or main fork of Crow Creek, some
two miles below its caiion, we struck upon the southern branch of
Lodge-pole Creek, and, five miles beyond, halted to noon upon
Bear Creek, one of its tributaries, where a meridian observation
gave for the latitude 41° 21’ 45’’.7.
We had now reached the heads of the stream, which I had pre-
viously determined to follow to its confluence with the South Fork
of the Platte. As we could expect to receive no addition to our
supplies before reaching Fort Kearny, I despatched an express to
Fort Laramie for such articles of food as were required, and occu-
pied the interval until their return in making an examination of
the eastern base of the Black Hills to the northward.
RESULT OF THE RECONNOISSANCE OF A NEW ROUTE. 261
Having now brought our reconnoissance for a new route from
the waters of the Pacific to a point where its results can be at
least approximately ascertained, it is very gratifying to be able to
state that these results are, in a high degree, satisfactory ; more so,
indeed, than I had anticipated.
It has been ascertained that a practicable route exists through
the chain of the Rocky Mountains, at a point sixty miles south of
that now generally pursued, and in a course as much more direct
as the chord of an arc is than the arc itself. A glance at the map,
and a little attention to the table of latitudes, will show that from
Great Salt Lake City to the head of Lodge-pole Creek, a distance
of four hundred and eighty-four miles, the difference of latitude is
but 35’ 42’; and that while the greatest northing made by the
proposed line is but little more than 20’ north of Lodge-pole
Creek, the greatest deviation to the south is but little more than
three miles: so that the entire route through that long distance
varies but a trifle froma straight line. When extended to the
junction of Lodge-pole with the South Fork of the Platte, it will
appear to be the chord of an arc formed by the present course of
emigration. The distancefrom Fort Bridger to Fort Laramie, by the
present route, is four hundred and eight miles; while, by the
new route from Fort Bridger to the eastern base of the Black
Hills, (a point equidistant with Laramie from the forks of the
Platte,) it is but three hundred and forty-seven miles: so thata saving
is effected, in the total distance, of just s¢xty-one miles. It must
be kept in mind, too, that the distance thus ascertained was mea-
sured by an odometer, following all the undulations of the natural ~
surface, in the course of a very rapid reconnoissance, without any
minute knowledge of the localities, or any endeavour whatever to
make even an approximate location for a road. When these locali-
ties come to be minutely examined, and the comparative advan-
tages of different courses ascertained and duly weighed, there can
be no doubt that even this large saving in distance may be still
further increased, by shortening the route wherever it shall be
found practicable. The examination of the country proved it be
more favourable than we had at first supposed. or even after so
successfully crossing the summit dividing the Pacific from the At-
lantic waters, serious fears were still entertained lest some formi-
dable, if not insurmountable obstruction, should be encountered in
the character of the ridge of the Black Hills, intervening as it
does between the Laramie Plains on the west and the great slope
262 ROUTE EASTWARD FROM HEAD OF CROW CREEK.
to the Atlantic which commences at their eastern base. All appre-
hensions on this head were, however, set entirely at rest by the
reconnoissance, which fully demonstrated the existence of a route
through these hills, not only practicable, but free from any ob-
structions involving in their removal great or unusual expenditure.
It was a subject of deep regret that our only remaining baro-
meter (a cistern barometer) had been broken by the warping and
cracking of its wooden frame in the dry and rarefied atmosphere
of these elevated regions; as it would have been in the highest
degree satisfactory to have made a precise comparison of the rela-
tive elevations of the ground on the line of this reconnoissance
with those already ascertained by previous explorations upon the
old route by the South Pass, the Sweetwater, and North Fork of
the Platte. Although this was unfortunately impracticable, yet a
careful observation of the ground on both routes has enabled me
to form a general comparison between them; and has led to the
unhesitating conclusion that, in point of dimaniclin distance, easy
grades, A from serious obstacles, and convenience and abun-
dant supply of materials for construction, the line of this recon-
noissance presents a trace for a road ie is not only perfectly
feasible, but decidedly preferable to the other.
From the head of Crow Creek, the way to the eastward lies
open in various directions. By eee over to the Lodge-pole,
and pursuing the valley of that stream to ity junction with the South
Fork of the Platte, an almost straight line will be secured from
Fort Bridger to the Forks of the latter. Thence the Missouri can
be reached either by the north bank of the river, on the route at
present travelled by the Mormons, or by following its south bank,
and crossing over to the Blue, below Fort Kearny: the valley of
the latter stream can thence be pursued to its junction with the
KKansas, and thence along that river to its confluence with the Mis-
sourl. Should a route still farther south be deemed desirable, the
features of the country show, that- by adopting the valley of a
stream flowing between the Lodge-pole and the Crow, it would not
be difficult to strike the South Fork of the Platte in the direction of
the heads of the Republican Fork of the Kansas, and by means of.
this latter stream either to reach the Missouri at the mouth of
the former, or, by a slight divergence, at some lower point, as
might be Pinaehe most expedient.
It had been my intention to continue the reconnoissance from the
head of the Lodge-pole to its junction with the Platte, and thence
ROUTE FROM FORKS OF THE PLATTE TO THE GREAT BASIN. 263
either on the dividing ground between that river and the Repub-
lican, or (had that proved unfavourable or impracticable) by the
valley of the latter stream; either of which lines would have led
us over ground as yet unexplored. Circumstances unfortunately
prevented this design from being carried into execution.
As any examination of the country over which we passed, other
than a very general one, was foreign to the objects contemplated
by my instructions, I have contented myself with simply adverting
to such prominent geographical features of the country as came
under my observation; being satisfied that so weighty an enter-
prise as the selection and construction of a great line of communi-
cation with the Pacific waters will not be entered upon without
previously well-considered and connected explorations. These, of
course, will be of a character much more minute and elaborate than
could be possibly made in the progress of a rapid reconnoissance,
the results of which must necessarily be of a character too general
to form the basis of other than a conjectural estimate as to com-
parative merits of different and conflicting routes.
The valley of the Salt Lake being the only point between the
Missouri and the Pacific whence supplies of provisions can be pro-
cured, it must become an object of no little importance to embrace
it in any scheme for a road across the continent.
I have already, in a previous portion of this report, suggested
the route which I considered the best between Fort Bridger and
that point, and which, taken in connection with the line to the head
of Crow Creek, will give an excellent trace for a wagon-road all
the way to the city. As to a railroad, the route is good as far as
Camass Prairie; but the trace thence by either of the caifions at
present travelled through the Wahsatch range to the city, will, I
_ think, be impracticable, or at least enormously expensive. ‘ From
the Camass Prairie, however, it is proposed to descend the Timpa-
nogas, which reaches the upper level of the Salt Lake Valley at.
Lake Utah, some fifty miles south of the city. This part of the
route I have not personally examined, but from descriptions given
of it by the guides and others, I have little doubt that it will prove
entirely practicable.
After reaching the Salt Lake Valley, the road, as I have here-
tofore suggested, might fork, one branch leading to Oregon, and
the other to the Pacific within the limits of California. The former
would descend the valley of the Jordan, to Salt Lake City, whence
it would traverse a perfectly level country, along the eastern shore
264. ROUTES FROM SALT LAKE CITY TO THE PACIFIC.
of the Salt Lake, to the ford of Bear River; crossing which, it
would proceed in a north-west course, following the present emi-
gration road until it would intersect that from the Soda Springs to
the Humboldt, or Mary’s River. The route to California would pur-
sue a south course at the western base of the Wahsatch range of
mountains, on the line now occupied by the Mormon settlements, and
would either strike the Pacific at San Diego, or, by doubling the
southern extremity of the Sierra Nevada, should that be found
practicable, reach San Francisco by the Tulare Lakes and the
valley of the San Joachin. As to the character of this latter route
I have no precise information; but it has been frequently traversed —
by various companies of Mormon explorers, who declare it to be
perfectly practicable; and the Mormons themselves are seriously
contemplating the construction of a railroad over it, by which to
secure an outlet to the ocean for the products of their territory.
Most of the projects for a railroad across the continent, as far
north as 40° and 41°, look to the valley of the Humboldt as a point
whence, by the branching of the road, the Pacific coast both of
Oregon and California may be reached: the former by the valley of
the Wallamutte, and the latter by the Salmon-trout Pass, or some
other, through the Sierra Nevada. The mode that has been pro-
posed for reaching this valley, is from the South Pass, by Sublette’s
Cut-off, to the Soda Springs, and thence in a south-western di-
rection to the valley of the Humboldt. This part of the route,
(from the Soda Springs to the Humboldt,) I apprehend, from the
formation of the country over which it must necessarily pass, will
be extremely difficult and expensive.
The northern rim of the Great Basin, or the elevated ground
which divides it from the valley of the Columbia, does not consist,
as has been supposed, of one continuous mountain range which may
be flanked, but of a number of long, abrupt, detached, parallel
ridges, extending in a north and south direction, and separated by
intervening valleys, which constitute, as it were, so many summit
levels, whence the waters flow north on the one side into the
Columbia, and south on the other into the Great Basin. Any line,
therefore, from the Soda Springs to the valley of the Humboldt,
will necessarily be obliged to encounter these ridges at nearly a
right angle, and will subject any trace for a road across them to
variations of level, which cannot but prove obstacles of a most
serious character. The route by the Salt Lake City, and thence
around the northern shore of the lake, would intersect that from
ROUTE AROUND THE SOUTH END OF SALT LAKE. 265
the Soda Springs before reaching Goose Creek, and would, from
all the information I have’ been able to collect, pass over much
more eligible ground. From the city to the crossing of Bear
River and the Malade, (a distance of eighty miles,) I know the
ground, from personal cbaeriddion, to be unexceptionable. Thence,
since the trace pursues a course as far south of the breaks of the
northern rim of the basin as it is possible, on account of the lake,
it is fair to presume that the inequalities of the ground will be
much less than by the proposed route from the Soda Springs.
Any line from the Wahsatch Mountains to the valley of the
Humboldt, north of the Salt Lake, cannot but prove exceedingly ex-
pensive, for the reasons just given.
But by passing south of it, a line can, I think, be found which
would be comparatively free from this objection. After reaching
the Utah Valley by the Timpanogas cafion, the road might either
be carried to Salt Lake City on the eastern side of the Jordan
Valley, and thence to the south shore of the lake at Black Rock;
or it might cross the Jordan at the traverse range near its
cajion, follow down the western side of the same valley, and
doubling the south extremity of the Oquirrh Mountain, reach
the south shore of the lake at the same point, viz. Black Rock.
rom Black Rock the route would follow near to the shore of
the lake as far as Strong’s Knob, unless further examination
should discover a practicable passage through the range of which
it is the northern extremity, and which forms the western boundary
of Spring Valley. The route thus far from Salt Lake City would be
ovér an absolutely horizontal plain. From Strong’s Knob, the same
level desert plain extends westward for seventy or eighty miles, to
the Pilot Peak range of hills, which, following the general law of the
great mountain ranges in this region, extends from north to south.
Having myself traversed this desert from the northern end of the
Lake to Pilot Peak, and thence to Black Rock on its extreme
southern shore, I can speak with confidence as to its character.
It is one uniform, level plain, without verdure, and presents ground
for a road that is absolutely faultless. .
Westward of the range referred to I have not penetrated; but,
reasoning from the structure of similar ridges in this part of the
basin,—which are generally short, abrupt, and disconnected pro-
trusions above the general level of the country, having broad level
plains between them,—little doubt is entertained that a passage
can, without much difficulty, be traced through to the heads of the
\
266 VALLEY OF THE CHUGWATER—SEVERE INJURY.
Humboldt. The distance will not exceed one hundred miles; and
the object to be attained renders it certainly well worthy of a care-
ful examination. Should the result prove favourable, we have
then a perfectly practicable trace from the forks of the Platte to
the valley of the Humboldt, preferable in many respects to that
presented by the Sweetwater, the South Pass, and the Soda
Springs.
With these general observations upon a route hitherto untra-
versed, I leave the subject, and return once more to our cuca
ment at the head of the Lodge-pole.
The interval until the 6th of October was occupied in making
an examination of the country to the northward of the heads of
Lodge-pole; in the course of which we crossed the several sources
of Horse Creek, and entered the picturesque valley of the Chug-
water. The character of the country did not vary materially from
that farther south. In several localities the ground was strewn
with fragments of white quartz, and jasper of a blood-red colour.
In the bed of the Chugwater, and on the sides of the adjacent hills
were found immense numbers of rounded blagk nodules of magnetic
iron-ore, which seemed of unusual richness. The Chugwater
winds from side to side of a level, well-sheltered valley, clothed
with abundance of grass, and is handsomely timbered with box-
elder and willow thickets, affording covert for great numbers of
deer, which were more plentiful here than anywhere upon the
route. The valley is a favourite wintering spot for the Cheyenne
Indians. |
While encamped on the Chugwater, I sustained a severe injury
by a fall, which not only incapacitated me from mounting my
horse, but confined me altogether to my bed until our arrival at
Fort Leavenworth. This unfortunate accident obliged me, although
with the greatest reluctance, to forego the projected reconnoissance
of the valley of the Lodge-pole and of the Republican Fork, to
which I had looked forward with the most sanguine anticipations.
It was a source of much satisfaction, under this severe disappoint-
ment, that the great object with which we left Fort Bridger had
been successfully attained.
An express was sent to Fort Laramie for surgical aid, and for
an ambulance, which arrived on the 9th, and on the 12th we
reached the fort. Here every kindness was extended to us by the
officers of the post ; and on the 16th we left our hospitable friends,
the train being in charge of Lieutenant Gunnison. Taking the
ARRIVAL IN WASHINGTON. | 267
‘usual emigration road, we arrived at Fort Leavenworth on the
6th of November. On the 6th of December, I arrived in Washing-
ton, and had the honour to report to yourself in person.
I am, Sir,
Very respectfully,
Your obedient servant,
HowarD STANSBURY,
Capt. Corps Topographical Engineers,
U. S. Arny.
Cot. JoHN JAMES ABERT,
Chief of the Corps of Topographical Engineers,
Washington.
‘%
7
APPENDIX A.
TABLE OF DISTANCES MEASURED ALONG THE ROUTE
TRAVELLED BY THE EXPEDITION IN 1849.
OUTWARD JOURNEY.
From Fort Leavenworth, on the Missourt River, to the City of the Great Salt
Lake: forming a Travelier’s Guide to the several Watering and
Encamping Places on the Route across the Plains, by which
each Day’s March may be regulated.
HOMEWARD JOURNEY.
A similar Table from Great Salt Lake City, showing the distances along the
New Route explored in 1850, from Fort Bridger, across the Laramie
Plains, to the heads of Lodge-Pole Creek, and thence, by Fort
Laramie, to the Missourt River, at Fort Leavenworth.
ALSO,
The Measured Distances on a Route from Great Salt Lake City to Fort Hall
in Oregon.
APPRENDI X,A;
TABLE OF DISTANCES MEASURED ALONG THE ROUTE
TRAVELLED BY THE EXPEDITION IN 1849.
OutTwaRD JourNEY from Fort Leavenworth, on the Missourt
River, to the City of the Great Salt Lake.
Inter-
mediate
Distance.
DATE.
PROMINENT PoINTS AND REMARKS.
Fort LEAVENwoRTH—Latitude, N. 39°
21’ 14”, according to Lt. Col. Emory;
Longitude, W. 94° 44’, according to
Nicollet.
Spring Camp—Good cool water, and| 6.480
fine grass for the cattle.
June 1| Noon Hatt—Near this point the road| 7.443
has since been abandoned for the| \,
ridge between the Missouri and Kan-
sas Rivers; the directions are there-
fore made succinct until reaching
the Big Blue.
Brancu—Fuel and water plenty........
SMALL CreEk—Road difficult on ac-
count of deep gullies.
InpIaN CRrEEK—Cross_ three
creeks in the first 12 miles.
INDEPENDENCE Roap—Crossing of the
St. Joseph’s and Independence Road.
Kansas Brancu—Travelling over the
ridge; rising ground 6 miles, then
descending, to branch creek.
COTS so adnsobeehagacs Sadbooneaacosss
small
See eeeesse Beeeee DEF ESS CEES EHLES OEEEEH SEES OO
CREEK Camp—Here we defiled to the
left, leaving the road almost half a
mile, for fuel and water.
Tue Groves—Fuel and water; small
creek, running north.
NEEMAHA—Tributary of the Missouri..
NEEMAHA Brancuo—Road has wound
along the ridge between two branches
of this creek. Noon halt.
270
Day’s
March.
everes
eeecee
coves
eveese
Total from
Fort
Leavenworth.
6.480
18.923
18.665
25.048
43.485
46.485
58.985
62.8438
68.178
83.078
93.868
100.852
109.722
APPENDIX A.—TABLE OF DISTANCES. 274
OUTWARD JOURNEY—Continued.
Inter- | : Total from
eee PROMINENT POINTS AND REMARKS. mediate ae Fort
1849. Distance. * | Leavenworth.
June 8| Camp CreEK—Fine timber and grass.| 7.692 | 16.562 117.414
Creek runs south.
‘¢ 9} Vermition—This creek heads about} 12.680] ...... 180.094
1 mile to the north-east; the ford is
miry. It enters the Big Blue 20 miles
above its mouth.
Bia Buve River—Bank steep, bottom! 13.863 | 26.548 143.957
hard, and water 24 feet deep. River
120 feet wide, with a brisk current.
‘¢ 11) Kercnam’s Creexk—This is sometimes| 12.031 | ...... 155.988
called Ten-mile Branch. Enters Big
Blue below. Good grass, and some
wood. Road excellent, on rolling
prairie after ascending from the
Blue River. The Independence Road
joins it 8 miles from the Blue.
TuRKEY CrREEK—Plenty of wood, and| 5.205 | 17.236 161.193
good grazing.
‘¢ 12| West Turkey CrEEK—A branch of Big | 10.588 | ...... 171.781
Blue River.
Wverrn’s Creexk—Tributary of Big| 6.3855 | ...... 178.136
Blue. Good grazing, and fuel in
abundance.
EMIGRANTS’, or WALNUT CREEK—En- 9.915 | 26.858 188.051
campment to south of the road, in
order to obtain water, wood, &c.
This is a tributary of the Little Blue
River.
«¢ 13] Sanpy CremekK—Camp. InaboutIlmile; 4.901 4.901 192.952
from the last creek is a small branch;
then rise considerably to a ridge;
then descend to Sandy Creek, where
we find feed for the cattle.
‘¢ 14/ Bia Sanpy Cremxk—Bed is 200 feet} 12.918 | ...... 205.870
wide, and heavy for teams.
AFFLUENT—Stream small, and flows| 8.280 | 21.148 214.100
into Little Blue. The road lies on
the ridge between the Sandy and
Little Blue, and touches ravines in
which water may be had in several
places. Cross some small creeks,
branches of Little Blue.
“15|Lirtix Broz River—lLeft bank, up| 8.003 | ...... 222.108 |
which the road lies. The road passes
over some spurs from the plains, into
the valley-bed, to avoid gullies. The
valley is two miles wide, well wooded,
and grass excellent.
GAD area en lank seeaccens oo sbwaniegcn alee 17.500 | 25.508 239.603
‘¢ 16 | Lirrte Buuz Vattey—The road crosses | 24.540 | 24.540 264.1438
some sharp gullies, and the wheels re-
. quire to be locked frequently. Camp.
“ 18) Litrnzs Brur—Point of leaving the} 12.165 | ...... 276.308
stream.
2
June 18
72
DATE.
1849.
19
APPENDIX A.—TABLE OF DISTANCES.
OUTWARD JOURNEY— Continued.
PROMINENT POINTS AND REMARKS.
THiIrRTY-TWwo Mite Creek—A_ small,
winding stream, with scattering trees.
PuatTeE River—Strike the Platte in a
broad valley. This road has since
been abandoned for one on the left,
more direct to Fort Kearny.
Fort Kearny—Passing up the valley
of the Platte, fuel difficult to be had
in high water, and mostly-on the
islands. The fort consists of several
adobe buildings for offices, stables,
and two wooden structures for quar-
ters. Emigrants and travellers ob-
tain various supplies at the Sutler’s.
Camp 18—On the Platte............ssecee0s
Camp 19—On the Platte. Fuel along
the river.
Camp 20—On the Platte.......... ....0se00
Camp 21—On right bank of Platte Ri-
ver; the road level and good, but
fuel scarce.
Camp 22—On South Fork of Platte, 6
miles above the junction of the Forks.
Camp 23—On South Fork. Water, tim-
ber, and grass plenty.
Camp 24—On South Fork..............000.
Camp 25—On South Fork...............00.
Forp oF SourH Forx—This is the up-
per ford, and easily crossed in low
stages of the river. Width 700 yards.
Asn Hortow—At the outlet of small
creek into the valley of North Fork.
The ascent for one mile on a hard
road, to the rolling prairie; continue
on this to within one half mile of
North Fork; then descend pretty
steep hills, and wind down Ash Hol-
low to the North Fork. Fuel in the
hollow.
Camp 28—Along the North Fork; road,
most of the way heavy sand. Cedars
in the gullies on the left.
Camp 29—On North Fork. Sandy, and
over spur of the table land on the
left or south side. Court-house 12
miles ahead.
Camp 30—At a cool spring, 10 miles
from Chimney Rock. Water cool and
abundant, but fuel must be brought
from the bluff, two miles.
Scort’s Buurr—These bluffs are about
5 miles south of the river. The road
up the bluffs steep, but on good, hard,
gravelly ground. A small spring at
Inter-
mediate
Distance.
7.430
12.355
14.920
10.892
22.832
23.469
24,222
20.818
22.895
19.824
25.040
31.017
-Day’s
March.
14.920
22.895
19.324
25.040
31.017
Total from
Fort
Leavenworth.
283.738
296.098
311.0138
821.405
044.237
867.706
891.928
-412.746
424.084
437.990
464.777
479.879
497.930
520.825
540.149
565.189
596.206
APPENDIX A.—TABLE OF DISTANCES.
OUTWARD JoURNEY— Continued.
PROMINENT POINTS AND REMARKS.
July 9| the top of the first hill. Robideau
66
66
66
6é
has a trading post and blacksmith’s-
shop here, but the post is to be re-
moved to a creek south, and over the
bluffs.
10 | Crrrxk—Affluent to Horse Creek. No
timber, good grass.
11 | Horsr CreEK—No wood on this creek
below the hills. The road now passes
over rolling ground, leaving the Platte
some distance to the right. Much
of the way but few scattering trees
to be seen.
11 | Camp—On the Platte ...............seeee eee
12 | Fort Lanamie—Camp half a mile above
the fort. Cross the Laramie Fork
below the fort about one mile.
18 | Warm Sprinc—The road taken leads
over the Black Hills some distance
south of the river; it avoids the
Kanyon passes, and usually has bet-
ter feed for cattle, except when it is
consumed by the multitude of tra-
vellers.
19| Brrrer Creek Brancn; Cop SPRING
—Leaving the Warm Spring Valley,
ascend a pretty steep hill, and pass
over ridges to Bitter Creek.
Bitter CareEK—Main branch, up which
the road lies; fuel and grass abund-
ant; stream 10 feet wide and 6 inches
deep.
21 | Horsz-sHor CreeK—The road follows
up a dry branch; no water until ar-
riving at Horse-shoe Creek. Timber,
grass, &c. Cross at the forks, and
rising, pass over two ridges, with
dry beds of streams.
Sprinc—aA spring and bed of creek, the
water in pools.
23 | La Bonré River—From the spring rise
to a high, undulating ridge, the road
very crooked. Descending for 14
miles to dry bed of creek, follow this
half a mile.
BARIAIOEE A Jaga ceaeci eas sc shigube' sav olsinevakvoweess
Camp—aAt the head of a spring branch.
Road over hills, the wheels require
frequent locking. Cross branches
now dry. But few good situations
for camping.
24|La Pritz River—Stream 16 ft. wide.
We have crossed two dry beds of
creeks, and a spring containing wa-
\ 18
Inter-
mediate
Distance.
13.062
1.504
19.970
16.264
13.428
10.469
5.720
138.490
7.059
10.085
6.000
8.284
7.250
Day’s
March.
21.474
16.264
13.423
16.189
eeecee
Total from
Fort
Leavenworth.
609.268
610.772
630.742
647.006
660.429
670.898
676.618
690.108
697.167
707.252
713.252
721.536
728.786
274 APPENDIX A.—TABLE OF DISTANCES.
OUTWARD JOURNEY— Continued.
: Inter- ’
ae PROMINENT PoINTS AND REMARKS. mediate uae
1849, Distance. ‘
July 24| ter from the melting of the snow.
This occurs occasionally in pools, at
this season.
CHERRY CREEK—A small stream; not| 4.250 waail
to be depended on for water. Grass
very scarce.
ELDER CrEEK—Small stream, good wa-| 1.020] ......
ter, and scattering timber.
FourcuHeE Boisr River—Good grassand| 3.228 | ......
fuel; stream 380 feet wide.
NortH Fork or THE PirattrE—Camp| 4.275 | 20.023
on right bank. Grass scarce.
‘«¢ 25| Derr Creex—Clear, good water, with| 5.000] ......
abundance of fuel, and coal found on
the east side of the stream, a little
above the crossing. Also a coal-mine
in the hills.
Pratte Frerry—Lower ferry, esta- «AGO: (lererencaien
blished by emigrants. River rapid,
muddy, and deep.
Camp—After crossing, the road is} 9.820 | 15.580
through heavy sand most of the way,
and the sand-hills often touch the
banks, and must be ascended. The
south bank is preferable, as far as
the upper ferry.
‘¢ 26 | Spring Camp—Brackish water in some} 12.222 | 12.222
ponds. The road has risen upon the
undulating table-land above the river-
level. Road heavy.
«¢ 27| Upper Ferry—Opposite upper ferry. 5200 hes taesaes
Rep Sprina—Near the Red Buttes.| 18.871 | 24.071
Road to-day hilly, and through heavy
sand most of the way. There are
mineral springs and alkaline lakes
along this part of the route, danger-
ous for cattle. Water good in some
places along the road.
«¢ 28 | Serine AnD RivuLtetT—Grass notplenty. | 16.821 | 16.821
Sage the only fuel.
‘© 30] GrEASEWoop CREEK—Six feet wide; G00 T Ag wak
road sandy.
Satzratus Lake—Lake west of the GI204. 4h aes
road. Water poisonous to cattle.
The salt used for bread-making.
SwEETWATER RiveR—River crooked,| 6.464 | 18.778
150 feet wide, 2 feet deep. At this
season, the current is gentle. Grass
plentiful, fuel scarce.
‘© 31 | Rock InpEPENDENCE—A granite rock, of 50 || ageies
oval or egg-shaped.
Devit’s Gate—A kanyon of steep| 5.270] ......
rocks, 400 feet high; the river runs
through the chasm.
Total from
Fort
Leavenworth
733.0386
734.056
787.284
741.559
746.559
747.319
757.139
769.361
774.561
798.432
810.253
816.353
829.567.
829.031
829.781
835.051
DATE.
1849,
July 31
Aug. 1
3 9
66 3
(13 4
66 6
6é 7
APPENDIX A.—TABLE OF DISTANCES.
OUTWARD JoURNEY— Continued.
PROMINENT POINTS AND REMARKS.
CreeK—Bad crossing, from the steep
banks.
CreeK —Tributary of Sweetwater, 5
feet wide.
Camp—On Sweetwater, in a bend, on
the south side.
SwEETWATER—Road leaves the river,
and passes over hills.
ALKALI Lake—The efflorescence on the
shores is like snow.
Camp—On Sweetwater. Grass good...
PiateEAu—Cross the river four times
this day. Camp on a plateau, after
leaving river, some miles back. The
water with a sulphurous smell. Sage
for fuel.
IcE Sprine—lIce found by digging in
the ground.
Steep Hitn— Descending from the
bluffs.
River—The road joins the river, which
is crossed frequently.
Camp—On south bank, having forded
four times. Good place to encamp.
Roap—Leaves the river, and passes
over hills to avoid kanyons. Water
in small streams every two or three
miles; greasewood and sage for fuel.
Some of the hills are steep, and re-
quire the wheels to be locked to de-
scend safely.
Camp—On the Sweetwater. There
are alkaline springs in the vicinity,
poisonous to cattle.
Souta Pass—Summit of the ridge
which divides the waters of the At-
lantic from those of the Pacific.
Paciric SpRinacs—Fine grass, good wa-
ter, and sage plenty, for fuel.
Paciric CrEEK—Crossing miry..........
Camp—On Dry Sandy. The water is
brackish ; fuel scarce, and little grass.
Junotion—The Oregon road over the
‘‘Dry Drive,” or Sublettes’ Cut-off,
branches here. Take the left hand.
Lirttz Sanpy—20 feet wide. Water
good, and fuel plenty.
Bic Sanpy—Barren, sandy land. Road
good. Stream 110 feet wide by 2 feet
deep.
‘“ 8/ Bia Sanpy—Cutting off bends of the
river, no grass or water on this drive,
after leaving the river two miles from
the last camp.
Inter-
mediate
Distance.
480
.500
2.361
7.639
.900
13.500
19.977
.250
10.000
3.113
6.830
0.750
22.587
9.000
4,531
1.500
10.2389
5.500
8.205
6.201
19.045
eeoees
eceeco
275
Total from
Fort
Leavenworth.
835.531
836.031
838.392
846.031
846.531
860.031
880.008
880.258
890.258
893.371
900.201
900.951
923.488
932.488
937.019
938.519
948.758
954.258
962.463
968.664
987.709
276
DATE.
1849.
Aug. 9
6c 10
6 11
ss 618
(73 90
APPENDIX A.—TABLE OF DISTANCES.
OUTWARD JOURNEY—Continued.
PROMINENT POINTS AND REMARKS.
Forp or Green River—Good camp
grounds on this river. Ford crosses
diagonally. A ferry is kept near the
ford at high water.
Camp—On right bank of Green River..
GREEN River—Road leaves river, and
crosses to Black’s Fork. No water
for 15 miles.
Buack’s Forx—100 feet wide, 2 feet
deep. Grass and fuel.
Camp—On Ham’s Fork..........sseeeseeees
Ham’s Forx—Cross the stream, which is
50 feet wide near camp; good bottom.
Buacr’s Forx—Strike Black’s Fork
again; cross the stream three times.
Grass and water, for camping pur-
poses, along its entire bed.
SmirH’s Forx—Tributary of Black’s
Fork.
Fort Bripg—ER—Camp, one quarter of
a mile east of fort. The road, for
several miles, leaves the fork to the |
right, but it can easily be reached
for making camps. There is a road
from Ham’s Fork, on the west side,
to be used when the creek is swollen.
Muppy Creex—Empties into Black’s
Fork below Fort Bridger. The road
is the same as is described in the
homeward journey of 1850, as far as
the mouth of the Red Fork of Weber
River.
Bear River—The road winds up a
ridge, and crosses a mountain. This
can be avoided by striking up Muddy
Creek a few miles, and crossing over
to Sulphur Creek.
Rep Fork—In Red Kanyon, below
Cache Cave.
Weser River—At junction of Red
Fork.
Camp—On right bank of Weber, at
“¢The Obelisks.”
Weser Forp—Ford good, but current
swift, over pebbles. Good timber,
and feed. Leave the river here, to
avoid kanyon.
Lone Hitx—Here you ascend a hill,
winding along a rivulet of good water.
Summir—The descent from this to
Bauchmin’s Creek is on a side hill,
and dangerous.
BavUCcHMIN’s CREEK—18 feet wide, clear |
water; fuel and grass plenty. The
Inter-
mediate
Distance.
11.778
1.000
2.250
15.500
3.875
2.000
12.125
18.727
14.830
19.082
18.754
16.540
2.000
2.000
1.500
4.750
4.500
eeoves
ercces
14.830
19.032
tecces
Total from
Fort
Leavenworth.
999.487
1000.487
1002.737
1018.237
1022.112
1024.112
1036.237
1054.964
1069.794
1088.826
1107.580
1124.120
1126.120
1128.120
--1129.620.
1184.870.
/
{
1138.870
i a li lg eT ELT Ne at IEE
APPENDIX A.—TABLE OF DISTANCES. ZiT
OUTWARD JOURNEY— Continued.
Total from
Inter- ’
— PROMINENT POINTS AND REMARKS. mediate ae Fort
1849. Distance. * | Leavenworth.
Aug. 21| measurements are taken, to-day, from
Clayton’s guide-book—the Odometer
being disarranged.
‘¢ 22 | Bra Kanyon CreeK—Cross Bauchmin’s
Creek thirteen times; then, at 8 miles,
begin the ascent of the mountain
along a small creek, well wooded,
and grass good on the ascent. The
summit, at 12 miles distance, gives a
view of the Great Salt Lake Valley.
Hill steep to descend.
‘¢ 23) Bia Kanyon Creex—Leave this creek] 4.500] ...... 1156.870
and turn to the right. You can pass
down on the left through the Golden
Pass, and avoid this mountain.
Emigration CrrEK—Youascendalong}| 1.750] ...... 1158.620
hill, and then descend a steep one,
to this creek.
1152.370
Camp—On Emigration Creek............. 1161.620
MovutH or Kanyon—Opening to the} 2.000] ...... 1163.620
valley.
1168.620
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APPENDIX A.——-TABLE OF DISTANCES.
280
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TABLE OF DISTANCES.
APPENDIX A.
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APPENDIX A.—TABLE OF DISTANCES.
282
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APPENDIX A.
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APPENDIX A.—DISTANCES TO FORT HALL. 293
DISTANCES measured by the Odometer, from the North Line of the
City of the Great Salt Lake to Cantonment Loring, in Oregon.
Wee Terman NOM TOWN. Sasecavise siscnuans caeneeecs eaiecwecninawelnccem ante 37.05
Weden’s Pass, opposrte the Pass imtorsesass stirrer ane crates 43.68
Maple Creek, tributary to Bright Creek. ......5.ccscdcdecesccese acces 53.29
Mater Aer CeO est siacac ted cdlcacddaaesbdaeal eeeeade la ctees aneaee 61.19
Sol LSI OIL Aa ene OD ROLE PORE Ce Cer RE OR RE ee RRM ap TAmR: pat 64.97
Hot Springs—Fresh, Cold Springs 25 feet off...........c.cesceeeeees 71.96
Ree NEM AT EVO athe atthe vs ccc cla gees Seed seneesgnetal eee sesens tees 79.10
Bhs She aR, BR OES ied oy Sit eee he ORE PRE ORE eee oe 91.96
Second Spring—4 fine springs, 4 mile further..................eseees ied
PePRMMEPUEHTeACIL. gees ease aetet less bh ansddad/ueeennashs ceqarene a atedaes sesek teas 103.39
EEE EIU acc etttens castes vc klys Ube ese teeten sue cet me sec ee ce ee toe neem 107.43
Peete Gee en io abet ete an Anesaes shen ban oes sista tc ars ass See ee R 111.40
Pape CMia ett Otenaccatsevencdraddsdsedendaceeacndtace savtodhtebaescecueacende 114.33
MERIT Gr CaN: 5 ,oratest tenance dassse att cares seth hase a Tah Es Meese ake T1822
Hedspeth’s Cut-off—road from Bear River ...........cscesee coeceeees 125.46
imac of Pass, in Hedspeth’s Ont-offrssciccoscdisssstdsnesi dha eee 129.84
eran or ce cer Vist lexciercets conse dese Wssacad vase tagcat eit caese ee ee Re 132.07
PeMIB Ae OU OM OL ASAI See toot ite Shab Rae daatlads onee tds deekte attest 134.78
Foot of divide of Malade and Pannack RiversS...............000seee0 140.42
ere OME ANTUMCIS 12 Jassrsnceshstsacelscees ahsoks casdee sasek dese ase eats 145.07
Branch of Pannack—after 3 small branches have been crossed. 155.59
Mtr ACLU LP INITAU CIEL SS scree salseckcatwcsee encase ctoate scents as cndenesee cea tes 159.12 ©
“0. UDACITENT IILI2S: yO) a SE Se oe ee Re ALA Se SS SARE BALL 164.09
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PEE CEMNGCUIE IN TVOT sasese same sleds celeacet eee Corey utes Were ane cee oe deta 177.00
UN GISTET GLE S800) 20 ete ce Baa aan Ce ned eS SceE elec core iaacic ssneee SCBdeione 179.81
Cantonment Loring, 5 miles beyond Fort Hall............s:.ssseee 187.75
ee EE NE eR UR Eee ee ee ee eT
a a ee ee
994 APPENDIX A.—DISTANCES TO SAN PETE.
DISTANCES FROM THE STATE-HovseE, City of the Great Salt Lake,
to the Settlement in the San Pete Valley, on a branch of Sevier
River. Communicated from the San Pete Company’s Journal.
PROMINENT POINTS AND CAMPING DISTANCES.
To Kanyon Creek Bridge
‘¢ Mill Creek
bmp)
Bishop Crosly’s
Second Cotton-wood Creek
Forks of Road
Dry Creek
Willow Creek
PAGS PUI oon cde sa suesiticchi pv asses unecealesieeeeciis «'sauemsuneees
Summit of Hill at Jordan Kanyon
Dry (Utah) Creek
American Spring
American Creek
Marsh Creek
Cedar Grove
Timpanogas River
Spring Base of the Mountains
Spring Creek
Pimquan Creek
Pequinnetty (Spanish Fork) Creek...........scssceee ceseeseee
Clear Creek
Petenete Creek
Aph “é
Wa-ka-tiky (Summit Creek)
Pungun—Ghost Spring
Warm Spring Creek
Watage «¢ At 33 miles take left-hand road
Ona-pah (Salt) Creek at kanyon
Kanyon Forks
Third Crossing of Ona-pah
Summit leaving Ona-pah Valley
Pleasant Creek, in San Pete Valley
Springs in Slough
San Pete Creek
San Pete Crossing
Timpa Creek
Mouna Creek
“* City Creek, 12 feet wide
AN OIweH DDN NHWY wee cwbhhd
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re)
Notr.—The San Pete Settlement was began in 1849, and in 1850 a city was laid
out by the Presidency. The distances measured by an Odometer, attached to
a wagon. This is on the road to Iron City, in the Little Salt Lake Valley, and
the southern road to California.
APPENDIX B.
LATITUDES AND LONGITUDES OF THE PRINCIPAL
TRIANGULATION STATIONS;
TABULATION OF THE TRIANGLES DEVELOPED IN THE SURVEY
OF THE GREAT SALT LAKE;
AND TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.
NOTE.
Tue Angles of the Triangulation were measured with a seven-inch theodolite,
by Draper. The instrument was scarcely competent to the work, from the low
power of its telescope, the great distance between most of the stations, the mirage,
and the almost constant haze that pervaded the atmosphere. Many repetitions
of the readings were consequently necessary to secure the requisite accuracy in
the results. This was peculiarly the case in obtaining the Azimuth of the Base
Line, which was fixed by observations of the Polar Star. The work is believed
to be sufficiently accurate to correct the detailed measurements, as well as to form
a basis upon which a triangulation may hereafter be extended over this great in-
ternal basin, should such a work ever be contemplated by the Government. The
natural features of this desolate region, abounding as it does in lofty eminences,
widely separated by intervening level plains, is admirably adapted to such an
operation; although its execution could not but be attended with great labour and
privation: Many of the deserts would furnish extended plains, absolutely level,
upon which a degree of the Meridian could be measured to great advantage.
APPENDIX
B.
GREAT SALT LAKE VALLEY.
Latitudes and Longitudes of the Principal Triangulation Points
—
co CO “I lor) Or He © bo
fax ek est
bp -§ oOo
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© CO ~I1 >
and Stations.
LOCALITIES.
Near Adobe Hall, in the city. Long.
from Frémont.
East end of base-line.........seceseees coceee
West end of base lime...........sceccseseeeee
Constitution Hill, north of city...........
Rose Spring, west side of Great Salt
Lake valley.
On mound near mouth of Dry Cotton-
wood.
On the table east side of Jordan Kanyon.
North-east shore of Utah Lake............
Near Timpanogos Kanyon, east side of
Utah Lake.
West side of mountain, at Jordan Kan-
yon.
Young’s Peak, highest Point on Ante-
lope Island.
Black Rock; south shore Great Salt
Lake: salt-works.
Pacrinaton Uslamd 24.5.0 .ihe.dectesesenteeses
Bremont Ueland 22. jhe iceoenctde adhere sssoandees
Strong’s Knob, west side of Great Salt
Lake.
ECOMOMLORY LP OLMb, awexnccnastxcaeadie vaste gaa
Gunnison Esland. vst... sssaessecceenadeated
Holphine slaw. 35. seta. .cdichedeades os Gevwed
Horned Frog, on east side of north-
west branch of Lake.
Saturday, on mound, north-east side of
Spring Bay.
Lighthouse, north end of Lake, west
shore.
Mud Island, near mouth of Bear River.
Dome on Stansbury’s Island......... ...+..
Head Peak, north of Bear River Bay...
Latitude.
40° 46’ 04”
40° 53’ 15.6
40° 51’ 28”
40° 48’ 03”.6
40° 38’ 30”.9
40° 34’ 24’.3
40° 26’ 51”.8
40° 21’ 24”.9
40° 19' 47.9
40° 26’ 49”.7
40° 57’ 20".5
40° 43’ 08”
41° 00’ 06".6
41° 10’ 04”.6
41° 14’ 28”.2
41° 11’ 54.3
41° 20’ 23.9
41° 27’ 38".7
41° 27’ 55".5
41° 33’ 06”.2
41° 42’ 22.6
41° 14’ 538”.8
40° 51’ 18”
41° 35’ 46.6
Longitude.
112° 06’ 08”
TE2° TL g”.8
112° 17’ 45”.8
112° 06’ 51”
112° 16’ 00”
112° 00? Fa" .7
112° 06’ 40.5
112° 04’ 38”.1
111° 53’ 87”.9
112° 09’ 05”.2
112° 25’ 20”.3
112° 26’ 02”.4) -
112° 46’ 26”
112° 32’ 47”
113° 05’ 08’.8
112° 88’ 02”
118° 03’ 23.8
118° 11’ 52’.5
112° 54’ 44".7
.112° 59’ 42”.4
118° 02’ 29”.7
112° 26’ 29.8
112° 42’ 81.8
142° 27' 077.8
297
APPENDIX B.—TABULATION OF TRIANGLES.
298
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APPENDIX B.—TABULATION OF TRIANGLES.
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1850.
TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL PoSsITIONS.
LocALitIEs.
Adobe Hall, Great Salt Lake City. The
longitude from Col. Frémont.
Junction of Forks of Golden Pass Creek;
near point of union of old and new
roads.
Dividing ridge, Wahsatch chain..........
Parley’s Park; spring east of Bauch-
min’s Creek.
Weher. Rivers apper ford, ....ssacnsnnansians
Junction of Red Fork and Weber River.
Nprme in Bed Kanyors 2....... deophes. os
Red Kanyon at Chicken-cock Bluff;
junction of Echo Creek.
At Yellow Creek, tributary of Bear
River.
Sulphur Creek: one mile east of Bear
River Ford, and north of Tar Springs.
Copperas Spring, in Great Coal Basin...
Hr BRU Br ss ss olan see adeelasi one ieengeineutistn tio wee
Black’s Fork, near Muddy Creek........
Near Spring on the plain, in the bend
of Black’s Fork.
East bank of Green River........0..0+-s00
Bitter! Creche an 2. WENGE Re ons Bekah 8
Bitter Creek, at the Sandstone Bluffs...
Bitter Creek Prairies 45. s0se» addopis Boon sis
Bitter Creek; head spring branches....
Bridger’s Fork of Little Snake River...
On the plains of Muddy.........0¢ j0.s.0006
On the west bank of Muddy Fork, a
branch of Little Snake River.
North bank of the Muddy, near Vas-
ques’ battle-ground.
In the Kanyon of Muddy Fork............
On a rivulet near Bridger’s Pass.........
Branch of Sage Creek... 4...1.< 0s sidens
On North Platte. The longitude taken
from Col. Frémont’s maps, 1848.
On the plain west of Medicine-bow
Mountain. ,
Rattlesnake Creek, near Medicine-bow
Butte.
Laramie Plaing,....escess tvs. o0st SP Ra RE
Laramie Plamgs. ..adisgge 253 «xs. sitePejae a oinnite
Feappe’s ‘Greele,. 2. acs cevdee tosddvesotussocewe
On route across Laramie Plains..........
West Fork of Laramie River..............
2.72 miles west of Laramie River; Main
Fork.
In Black Hills; on a branch of Crow
Creek.
Latitude.
40° 46’ 08”.3
40° 45’ 40”.5
40° 44’ 48”
40° 43’ 04.8
40° 53’ 41.3
40° 57’ 41”.07
41° 02’ 27".26
41° 06’ 26”.1
41° 09’ 00”.2
41° 08’ 08.18
41° 13’ 45”.7
41° 18' 12”.8
41° 28’ 56.38
41° 31’ 08”.5
41° 80’ 44.5
41° 34’ 40.8
41° 30'51".4
41° 28’ 09’.2
41° 24’ 12”
41° 28’ 39”
41° 28’ 14”.1
41° 27’ 06”.18
41° 28’ 28”.49
41° 27’ 41”
41° 33’ 227.3
41° 35’ 21”
41° 32’ 49”.2
41° 37'15”.8
41° 40’ 45”.2
41° 41’ 50”.9
41° 38’ 38.6
41° 33’ 06”
41° 28’ 16”
41° 19! 43.4
41° 15’ 41.4
41° 08’ 02”
APPENDIX B.—TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.
Longitude
west of
Greenwich.
112° 06’ 08”
111° 53’ 14”
111° 46’ 55”.5
111° 38' 46”.2
111° 36) 267
111° 40’ 46”
111° 30’ 34”
111° 22’ 06”
111° 14’ 138”
111° OF 22"
110° 48’ 00”
110° 32’ 23”
110° 18’ 50”
110° 04’ 15”
109° 88’ 40”
109° 23/09”
108° 50’ 34”
108° 41’ 09”
108° 31’ 00”
108° 14’ 24”
108° 02’ 11”
107° 52’ 41”
107° 41’ 21”
107° 38’ 48”
107° 30’ 48”
107° 21’ 52”
107° 06’ 11”
106° 53’ 31”
106° 43’ 87”
106° 36’ 57”
106° 24’ 47”
106° 15’ 58”
106° 06’ 35”
105° 57’ 12”
105° 45’ 39”
105° 24’ 11”
GEOGRAPHICAL Positions—OContinued.
APPENDIX B.—TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.
301
Longitude
1850. LOocALITIES. Latitude. west of
Greenwich.
No. 37.| Crow Creek, one and a half miles below | 41° 09’08”.5 | 105° 08’ 24”
the kanyon.
«¢ 38 Branch of Lodge Pole Creek, in Che-| 41° 21’45”.7 | 105° 12’ 21”
yenne Pass.
«¢ 39 | Branch of Chug-water River.............. “41° 45’ 35”.8 | 104° 59’ 25”
«¢ 40 | Chug-water River; Bridger’s ravine.... | 41° 89’ 58”.4 | 104° 56’ 45”
Soe | Ort, LATAIMIIC, .a...00000.0ceeied nade ¥. chants 42°012!.38".2..1.. 104° 314.26"
s¢ 42 | North Platte River; left bank, below | 41° 55’ 36”.7 | 103° 58’ 23”
mouth of Horse Creek,
SCONE S EUG. cc .c.csc ccesccece soncvaase saneve 41° 48’ 25”.7 | 103° 45’ 02”
fn a4. lett, bank of, Platte River..ic..asscncceee 41° 45’ 39” 103° 21’ 44”
ao.) ett bank of Platte River........-s.00ces 41° 33/22” 102° 45’ 10”
‘¢ 46 | Ash Hollow; one mile from river........ ALP 17S. yes, 4029 1021.28”
REIMER HON IK CONTA 8 Soin neiteninsasephEhlvenecacaa 40° 38’ 45” 98°08) 4”
‘© 48 | Oak Grove; Little Blue River............. 40° 13’ 41.2 97° 54’ 36”
«¢ 49 | Road at leaving Little Blue River........ 40° 11’ 16” 97° 39’ 02”
«« 50| Fort Leavenworth, according to the| 39° 21’ 14” 94° 44’ 00”
determinations of Major Emory and
M. Nicollet.
REMARKS.
The longitudes given in the table depend upon those assumed
for Fort Leavenworth, and a point in Great Salt Lake Valley,
taken from Nicollet and Frémont. Their means for fixing these
points were so superior to ours that they are necessarily adopted ;
our sextants being imperfect, and the mode of transporting chrono-
meters, of the kind furnished, interfering with their regularity.
On leaving Fort Leavenworth, the two chronometers differed but
8.5 seconds; they were put into leather boxes, carefully adjusted
upon two mounted men, and at the end of the first six miles differed
11 minutes and 11 seconds. From subsequent observations the
loss was attributed to No. 1961. They were then carried in a
spring-wagon with the other instruments. The average daily differ-
ence for the entire route was a little above one second. ‘The re-
lative rate was, for sixteen days, a losing one of half a second;
then, to Laramie, one and a half second’s gain. Thence they were
carried in another light wagon, and the rate was about one second.
Whatever important changes one received, was therefore partaken
by the other.
302 APPENDIX B.—GEOGRAPHICAL POSITION.
Allowing the entire change of the first day to be due to No. 1961,
and taking the longitudes of the termini as stated above,
The average rate of gain for chronometer No. 1681, daily, is............ses0e 8.031
Average rate at beginning and end of Jourmey..........sesssee csessecee socsee seeees 7.010
At Fort Leavenworth... 2.0 caisceusunavewavectveseve'ceasaussescveunwaepieansecuneeenne 10.000
At Great Salt Lake Citys... icc.c. sececaet tvacnctle duces ai castes sietuah edbuan ese eeeeeeeeeee 4.020
hom. s@
Time by sextant observations at Great Salt Lake City.............cssceeeees 7 49 43
ce -y q Fort Leavenworth... .-asscss.00s50-a-cerenee 6 28 31
Difference Chronometer: HME, «2.2... 60/0eaveren voparnees/aposwsews guncenne nines seneeeet 1 21 12
2 in mean time by assumed longitudes............. sesssesseceeeeeees 109 27,2
CHTOROMELMIC Pale 222. 0s. ccosadacalncscsc cal edeeesans slsonsaswicesahusee Sibeesuseeaamne 11 54.9
Time by sextant observations at Fort Laramie ... ...........sssscssceseseesens 7 17 29
The number of days between the respective observations, was,
from Leavenworth to Laramie, fifty days; thence to Great Salt
Lake City, thirty-nine days. The proportion of gain is therefore
6 min. 41.6 sec., and 5 min. 13.3 sec. Making these corrections,
and converting into siderial time, the longitude of Laramie will be
given at 105° 19’ 50”.
But taking the rate at the termination of the journey, and ap-
plying it to the time given at Laramie, we have,
Longitude, Great Salt Lakes). csc. 1.j.cscsjesesesdeenovseescs ene 112° 06’ 08”
as BGC Se oc oa ove saamncnnincannananeesomacee eee 104° 40’ 35”
This would agree better with that of Fremont in 1842; but he
observes in his book of 1843, that the longitudes of that year are
thrown too far west collectively, and proposes to correct, at Fon-
taine gut Bouit: taking the amount of correction given at that
station in 1845, at 15’ 49’’, his observations place Laramie in 104°
31’ 54’’, which is nearly that adopted in the accompanying map,
resulting from measured distances and observations, on the home-
ward journey. Relying upon the accuracy of the map of 1845,
we have checked the work made up from course and distance,
measured by an odometer, at the crossing of the North Fork of the
Platte, and reduced the longitude of Camp 32 on Chugwater, at
104° 56’ 45’... The chronometric difference of this camp and
Laramie is taken, on account of the good apparent work of the
time-keepers and the winding of the road, at 25’ 19/’, which gives
the longitude of Fort Laramie at 104° 31’ 26’. Thence to Fort
Leavenworth the intermediate points where latitudes were taken,
we make up from course and distance as before.
The lunars taken at Laramie and in the Salt Lake Valley, are
ee a
roe
APPENDIX B.—GEOGRAPHICAL POSITION. 303
disregarded, the instruments used being too imperfect for such
work. On the return journey the chronometers were carried in
panniers on the most gentle mules. Their comparison exhibits
‘jumps and stops’’ so great as to forbid this mode of conveyance.
Between Salt Lake City and Bridger’s Fort, the loss of 1631 upon
its companion was 52, and 29.5 sec. on two respective days; on the
last day’s travel 1961 stopped entirely, and at the arrival at Fort
Laramie, 1631 was 23 minutes in advance of the time of starting.
There can be no doubt that light balanced pocket chronometers
are best suited to this method of determining difference of lon-
gitude. They can be put on spiral springs with suitable packing,
in boxes, and strapped so as to ride horizontally on the body of the
mounted man. The chronometer should be put into its place after
the carrier has mounted, (if on horseback,) and taken out by the
astronomer at the halting, before alighting. But what is of great
importance, the travelling rate of the instrument should be found
previous to commencing the journey. This could be done by
having it transported, in the manner intended on the route, the
average daily number of hours, at the place of fitting out. With
three well-tested chronometers, much confidence might be placed
in their work, and if either one varied the others would detect it.
Three persons should carry them.
A remarkable fact is shown by those chronometers in our jour-
ney. Their rates were given at Philadelphia. At Fort Leaven-
worth they both had the same relative rate, but had increased
from less than one to ten seconds gain, having been transported
in stages over the mountains. After being some months stationary,
in the winter at the Salt Lake, they together returned to nearly the
rates at Philadelphia. It would appear, therefore, that such de-
rangements do not obtain and affect these instruments merely while
moving, but that it is gradually recovered from when returned to
permanent rest.
J. W. GUNNISON, Lieut. Top. Hng’s.
In charge of Astronomical Department.
Capt. H. Stanszury, Top. Hing’s.
Commanding Expedition to Great Salt Lake.
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APPENDIX C.
ZOOLOGY.
- QUADRUPEDS AND BIRDS, BY PROF. SPENCER F. BAIRD.
| REPTILES, BY PROF. BAIRD AND CHAS. GIRARD.
_ ss INSECTS, BY PROF. HALDEMAN.
APPENDIX C.
ZOOLOGY.
It is much to be regretted that the circumstances of the Salt
Lake Expedition were such as to prevent as much being done in
the way of collections in Natural History as the accomplished
head, Captain Stansbury, and his assistant, Lieutenant Gunnison,
had intended. Called upon to start almost at a day’s notice,
they found it utterly impracticable to obtain the proper preserva-
tive materials, apparatus, and other necessary outfit for making
collections, in the limited time allotted to them. Nevertheless, it
will not be a matter of surprise to those who are acquainted
with the gentlemen concerned, to learn how much was actually
accomplished, as will be shown by the published results. In fact,
no Government expedition, since the days of Major Long’s visit to
the Missouri, has ever presented such important additions to Natu-
ral History. Of the great advancement of geographical know-
ledge, the reports of the officers will speak for themselves.
The mammals observed, as might be supposed, belong mainly to
the Rocky Mountain series. The most interesting fact in their
history is the determination of the existence in Utah of the great-
tailed fox, now for the first time described, although mentioned
by various travellers.
The birds brought in by the expedition, belong chiefly to the
waders and swimmers. ‘The number is not sufficient to draw any
general conclusion as to the ornithological fauna of Salt Lake
Valley; although the indications are that this forms a meeting
point for the species of the Saskatchewan, the Pacific, the Mis-
souri, and of New Mexico.
A South American duck was obtained for the second time in
North America, (Pterocyanea rafflesii,) the single specimen previ-
ously found in the country having been shot in Louisiana. A new
bluebird, (Sialia macroptera,) appears to be abundant. An ex:
ceedingly interesting fact is found in the determination of the
307
308 - APPENDIX C.—INTRODUCTION.
winter quarters and range of Lewcosticte tephrocotis. The only
specimen previously seen of this bird was obtained by Dr. Rich-
ardson on the Saskatchewan.
The reptiles procured are all new, excepting two: of these, one,
Holbrookia maculata, was recently described by Mr. Girard, from
the Platte, and the other, Phrynosoma douglasit, from Oregon, by
Bell. None of the new species have ever been found elsewhere.
Among these is the finest species of Cnemidophorus in North
America. ‘To Mr. Girard, equally with ourselves, is due the cre-
dit of the article on the reptiles, especially for the monograph of
Phrynosoma, which is entirely from his pen.
Many specimens of insects were procured, but unfortunately
injured or lost on the return. The few preserved have been ably
determined by Professor Haldeman, as will be seen by his report.
The principal entomological result is the precise determination of
the destructive grasshopper, which, but for the interposition of a
species of tern, at one period was near turning the “Garden of
the Mountains” into a desert. |
Of shells and other invertebrate forms, no specimens were
brought in, excepting in too fragmentary a state to admit of de-
termination.
By the kind permission of Colonel J. J. Abert, Chief of the
Topographical Bureau, so well known for his liberality and love of
science, we have been permitted to examine a small but exceed-
ingly interesting collection of birds and mammals, procured by his
son, Lieutenant J. W. Abert, in New Mexico. Among them we
found a new species of bird and one new mammal, descriptions of
which, with lists of the other species, we have subjoined. We have
also ventured to include, in the article on reptiles, descriptions of
some new species from Oregon, Texas, and New Mexico, collected
by officers of the army. With the cheerful acquiescence of Cap-
tain Stansbury, we have likewise appended to the article on birds
a complete list of all the trans-Mississippi1 species not imcluded in
Audubon’s American Ornithology, adding the few found since his
time east of this great natural boundary. For assistance in cor-
recting and extending this list, we are under great obligations to
Mr. John Cassin, of Philadelphia, who is now engaged in publishing
a continuation of Audubon’s Ornithology, to include all the species
mentioned in it.
S. F. Barrp.
APPENDIX ©.—MAMMALS. 309
MAMMALS.
BY 8. F. BAIRD.
1. Vunpres MAcRouRuUS, Baird.—Great-tailed Fox.
WE greatly regret that the specimens of this, the most import-
ant addition to our fauna made by Captain Stansbury, should be
of such character as not to admit of a description based upon the
skull. None were found by the party, all brought in being cased
skins purchased of hunters in Salt Lake Valley, and, as usual,
without the skull.
In general appearance, this species resembles the red fox,
Vulpes fulvus, in its different varieties. From these, however,
it may be at once distinguished by the great length of the tail,
which exceeds that of the latter species by six inches, and more.
In the best specimen procured, the back is of mixed grizzled
gray colour as in the gray fox or badger, the hairs being dark
brown at the base, then yellowish white, and finally, tipped with
black. These hairs are interspersed in a very abundant soft fur,
of uniform colour, varying in tint with the region of body. A de-
cided black colour prevails on the muzzle, sides of face, top of head,
and upper part of neck, separated from that of the back by a rather
uniform ferruginous in front of the shoulder. On the shoulders,
the gray exhibits a slight tendency to a cross, and widens poste-
riorly, including the outside of thighs, and extending a short dis-
tance on the tail. There isa considerable admixture of black
around the eyes. The sides of the neck and body, concavity of
the ear, basal anterior portion of the convexity, and space across
lower neck, are light ferruginous; the remaining portion of the
convexity of the ear black; chin, throat, legs, belly, top, and sides
of the tail, black. The tip of the tail is dirty white; beneath,
with region about the arms and posterior edge of thighs, light fer-
ruginous; whiskers, black.
Length (approximate) from snout to base of tail 33 inches.
Pail to end Of YerteDra.....ccoprocearser versonseoseens ee ares
Ge Meee UO OU AUNT Se snrests' gis tiuiiev sale sonign atseamalvesnae aa.
Breadth of tail, Hatten” fo.ccses ccvssveacvtaevesteccn o pee
310 APPENDIX C.—MAMMALS.
Hairs on sides-of batlic. 2, vsiciscusdaweanseastenee kansas 43 inches.
C6 SERED) A sens cotWeetvin deans dine seals aeete eb au eee A yee
WP OVEREDA). oixsnnensicanpancpainsesknivceapsapevne snip pasneeecen 10 48
PIG Ol BANG cseac asks cisssasccineewasnce scenauss mepdawnss ose
Another specimen, much like the last from Fort Laramie, has
the top of the head and posterior half of the back grizzled yellow,
gray, and black, anterior half of back and across shoulders nearly
to elbow with a much greater predominance of black; basal half
of the convexity of the ears and the entire concavity, with the
edges, sides of neck and of body behind the forelegs, light-yel-
lowish. Legs and beneath black, as also muzzle and ears, with
the exception just stated. The fur is very full and soft, and the
feet densely clothed with long, crimped, soft hair.
Another specimen indicates quite a different variety, with a
much closer resemblance to the red fox. The colour above is
light ferruginous, deeper toward the dorsal line; beneath, white.
The hairs at the base are, as usual, lead colour. The fur, how-
ever, along and toward the dorsal line is terminated for the
greater part of its length by a rich chestnut, rather darker behind.
The long scattered hairs on the back are mostly black, tipped
with light yellow; laterally, this fur is light ferruginous, fading off
into white toward the belly. This ferruginous is more distinct
immediately over the back. Inner sides of legs, sides of head, and
concavity of ears, likewise yellowish white. Upper part of muz-
zle, around the eye, and on top of head, grizzled chestnut, like
the back. Convexity of posterior surface of ear, black. The
sides of the soles also indicate black, although the legs are too
much mutilated to show distinctly the colour. ‘The general colour
of the tail is yellowish white, deeper above: the long hairs of top
and sides tipped with black. ‘Tip of the tail, white. The feet in
all the varieties are densely covered with hair on the under surface.
In this species we find all the varieties of the common red fox,
Vulpes fulvus, as the chestnut, the black, the silver gray, cross,
&c. How far its range extends we are at present unable to state.
It probably, however, reaches the Pacific coast, and far to the
north in the Rocky Mountains. Indeed, we consider it very im-
probable that the ordinary red fox extends west of the Missouri.
As regards the eastern range, we have seen specimens from Fort
Laramie, and Audubon and Bachman refer to a skin from Fort
Union, at the mouth of the Yellowstone, which may possibly be-
long to the same species. _
APPENDIX C.—MAMMALS. 311
2. Putorivus vison, Lin.—Mink.
Putorius vison, Dekay, N. Y. Zool. pl. 1, p. 837;—Aud. & Bach. Quadrupeds, I. 250,
pl. 33.
The well-known and destructive mink appears to be common in
the valley of Salt Lake, several specimens having been procured.
The colour is more uniform than common in Eastern specimens,
there being no trace of the yellow spot on the chin. In one indi-
vidual, however, the edge of the lower lips is white.
3. PUTORIUS ERMINEA, Lin.—Ermine.
Putorius noveboracensis, Dekay, N. Y. Zool. pl. 1, p. 36.
Putorius erminea, Aud. & Bach. II. 36, pl. 59.
This species occurs abundantly throughout the northern and
temperate parts of the whole northern hemisphere.
4, MELES LABRADORIA, Sabine.—Badger.
Meles labradoria, Sabine. Captain Franklin’s Narrative, p. 649;—Richardson, F.
B. A. L. p. 87 ;—Aud. & Bach. Quad. I. 360, pl. 47.
The American badger is found in the interior of North Ame-
Tica, especially in the regions bordering on the Rocky Mountain
ranges. !
5. GuLo Luscus, L.—Wolverene.
Orsus luscus, L. Syst. Nat.
Gulo luscus, Rich. F. B. A. I., 41;—Aud. & Bach. Quad. I. 202, pl. 26.
The wolverene, known also as carcajou and glutton, is an inha-
bitant of the arctic regions of the northern hemisphere, extending
as far north as lat. 75. In North America, it is an inhabitant of
the whole of the British and Russian possessions. It is found
sparingly in Maine, Massachusetts, and Northern New York,
although exceedingly rare. Farther west it is more abundant,
particularly along the upper Missouri and the Rocky Mountain
ranges. The locality here assigned, of Salt Lake, is the most
southern limit yet given.
To the traveller and trapper on. the prairies or among the
mountains, the wolverene is the greatest nuisance imaginable.
312 APPENDIX C.—MAMMALS.
It ferrets out the caches of provisions and skins, and devours
their contents greedily, its enormous strength being such as to
enable it to remove almost every weight which may be placed upon
the articles concealed. It destroys the traps set for other ani-
mals, and tears to pieces their contents. Indeed, in the Northern
United States, this animal is dreaded more than the panther or
bear, being invested with fabulous attributes of ferocity and dan-
ger. This is, to a much less degree, the case in the Rocky Moun-
tains ; but everywhere the wolverene is attacked with caution.
6. FIBER zIBETHICcUS, L.—Muskrat.
Fiber zibethicus, Aud. & Bach. Quad. I. 108, pl. 13.
The muskrat abounds over the greater part of the American
continent, extending from the Atlantic to the Pacific. Its north-
ern and southern limits are not well ascertained: those assigned
to it by Audubon and Bachman are lat. 69° to lat. 30°.
7. SPERMOPHILUS 13-LINEATUS, Mitchill.
Sciurus 18-lineatus, Mitchill’s Medical Repository for 1821.
Spermophilus hoodi, Sabine.
S. tridecem-lineatus, Aud. & Bach. I. 224, pl. 39.
The little prairie squirrel, so common in Wisconsin, Michigan, |
and Minnesota, would seem to have a very extensive range, in being
found by the expedition on the Platte beyond Fort Laramie.
The specimen is, however, immature, and it is quite possible that
further investigation may show this to be a species distinct from
the St. Peter’s specimen described by Dr. Mitchill.
8. Ovis MonTANA, Desm.—Bighorn.
- Ovis montana. Rich. F. B. A. I. p. 271;—Aud. & Bach. Quad. II. 164, pl. 73.
The specimen of bighorn, or Rocky Mountain Sheep, brought
home by Captain Stansbury, was shot on Chug-Water. It is the
largest individual we have ever seen, although itself possibly not
of maximum size. It differs somewhat from the description in
Audubon and Bachman, in having the posterior line of all the
legs yellowish white, this colour extending to the axillee in front,
and confluent behind with the white of buttocks, scrotum, and
APPENDIX C.—MAMMALS. ‘. pL
thighs. The dorsal line is inconspicuous, except on the darker
tips of the short mane.
Circumference of horn at the base...... 17 inches.
Length of horn along the convexity.....364
Distance between the tips of horns.....18 ‘
The bighorn, at one time erroneously supposed to be the same
as the old-world argali, is common in the ranges and hills be-
longing to the Rocky Mountain system.
COLLECTED BY LIEUTENANT ABERT.
1. PSEUDOSTOMA CASTANOPS, Baird.
This beautiful species was collected by Lieutenant Abert along
the prairie road to Bent’s Fort. In general colour it is of a pale
yellowish-brown, with an ample patch of light chestnut on the side
of the head and face, deepest above. The dorsal line is not darker
than the rest of the fur. In size it is intermediate between P.
borealis and bursarius.
The colour of the fur above is slightly grizzled, and much lighter
than in P. bursarius ; beneath, paler. Throat, space between the
forelegs and sides of arms, pale rusty. The chestnut marking,
on the side of the head, is very strongly defined, occupying on
each side a nearly circular space of about one and three-quarter
inches in diameter, with the nearly obsolete ear as a centre.
These chestnut spaces do not quite meet on the crown and occiput,
but leave a rectilinear interval, coloured like the rest of the back,
of about one-eighth of an inch in width. On the muzzle, however,
from above the eyes, the colour of opposite sides is confluent.
The hind feet and toes are thinly covered with whitish hairs,
which on the fore feet appear more ferruginous. The claws are
white, but sufficiently transparent to allow the coagulated blood in
the phalanges to show through them.
Length to base of tail (approximate).,.........00+ 8 inches.
AM rec cbe acetates ajscnbaps weapasieay scsesascs sou ducerdecrnss oe) 66
Hand (along the palm)..........csccocssecseesseveeceere 1% .
Length of exposed part of middle anterior claw. 3 “
Hind feet (along sole) from heel...........s.0.essees 1” “
Middle: ClawWirnsarccgeesassonanavertorsauariercenensy such ooeee’ 42 «6
314 APPENDIX C.—BIRDS.
BIRDS.
By SPENCER F. BAIRD.
1. BuTEO BOREALIS, Bp.—Red-tailed Hawk.
Faleo borealis, Wils. VI. 72, pl. 52.—Aud. Biog. I. 265, pl. 51.
Salt Lake. Found by Gambel in California.
2. ACCIPITER FUScUS, Bp.—Sharp-shinned Hawk.
Falco velox, Wils. VII. 110, pl. 45, fig. 1 (young female).
Faico pennsylvanicus, Wils. VI. 18, pl. 16, fig. 1 (adult male).
Falco fuscus, Aud. Biog. IV. 522, pl. 374.
Salt Lake.
3. ATHENE HYPUGAEA, Cassin.—Burrowing Owl.
Striz hypugea, Bp. ‘Am. Orn. I. 12;°p)., Fs
Strix cunicularia, Aud. Biog. V. 264, pl. 482, f. 2.
Athene socialis, Gambel, Pr. A. N. S. III. 47.
Abundant in the valley of Salt Lake and on the plains east
and west of the mountains.
4, SIALIA MACROPTERA, Baird.—Long-winged Bluebird.
‘Marz.—Salt Lake City, March 18, 1850.
“A specimen of Sialéa was procured by Captain Stansbury,
which, at first sight, was referred to S. arctica of Swainson.
On comparing it with others from Fort Union, the differences
were found to be sufficiently great to constitute a distinct species.
The Fort Union specimen was clearly referable to S. arctica of |
Swainson shot at Fort Franklin, Great Bear Lake, so that it be-
comes necessary to impose a new name upon the one from Utah.
Not having at hand specimens from the Pacific coast, it is im-
possible to say to which species the birds described by Audubon
as S. arctica belong, (probably arctica.)
The principal difference between the two allied species is to be
found in the longer wings, and much smaller and weaker claws,
with rather longer toes, of the S. macroptera, as will be sufficiently
APPENDIX (.—BIRDS. 315
evident from the table of comparative measurements. ‘The bill,
too, of the latter, although of much the same proportions, is de-
cidedly smaller.
As in S. arctica, the upper parts are a bright azure blue, more
lustrous and deeper on the wings, rump, and tail-coverts. The
lower parts are of a light greenish blue, excepting the lower belly
and sides, abdomen, and tail-coverts, which are white.
The white of the lower parts is clearer and extends higher up
on the belly than in S. arctica, and the quills and tail-feathers
are much bluer, this colour greatly predominating over the brown
on the inner webs and inner faces of the feathers. The clove-
brown shows somewhat conspicuously as a broad tip to the quills,
which, besides, are very narrowly margined, terminally and inter-
nally, with whitish. The outer margins of the primaries, towards
the tips, shade into greenish blue. Owing, perhaps, to the plum-
age not being quite full, many of the feathers of the back and
breast have grayish tips.
/ DIMENSIONS.
Sialia macroptera, (Salt Lake, Male.) S. arctica, (Fort Union, Male.) !
ONE. 5500. fos ice csiewedcasoscsieves 4 inches. (Skin contracted) 6% inches.
EN aera sg Sv nclasisha viaise siended ged ees 143, “ ‘
SOIC ct. cduaaesssnacosineesos Aig « ct 444 «
Tail to insertion of middle feathers 3%, “ aN Pape
FE og osacnvens vecenvcsncssese a (Tail worn) 4g
Projection of longest primary be-
yond longest secondary or ter-
tiary, (wing not shut close)....... Lye “
Do. wing shut close..........css.c0000 3 acme sueenatadeesee ideseusece lair te
Longest primary beyond shortest,
oD =a ee soidvcnan ance ue nautls Tee at. sGeidacblasaweuccschesacaneis dh tame’
Second primary longer than first,
MEUEIOUS oe acl cadc sree LS ngs tebe atte 3 2, canhenmUte EP are rman Mabe widaiaeses 28g «
RRO A ad. 5 adecseyocecdven, | ae Sl. daiguadawka coduedenctt Betieene SA “
ice oho tsis wall diainn vdidense’s GO, BL BCRP CEPR ESELe Eee Mrs Ras Pe ae
asin v saitavin Laswaden oiies signe SB Ul Fon ered ontuids Se oeuae yeaa 10K“
EMCO 5 nl cascesesevesccsscsssccs eda oe elaswaseas sasetcatidencenshgdi 14
BN WAGI, CLAW, oc ascassececesens Pa as aciatas dassie cibtcianis vee Sel an 1,074 “6
Lateral toes, (equal)..............0000 BRT aa cicdty oltideaidieseismatmnteateitene 44%“
Bemeee. Vwith Claw. ..cc.escccesse Big! a MM an dae « halen nade eaene rare tz “
BRUNE OG oie 50.'¢ sesso rccesdsacestanss coed API PL loeecasedldar eetmareaetat satis vz “
Rte oe WHEN CLARY fo ciesssasenisadissess Genes hier spies saulemnmameat stents’ tf “
(In S. macroptera.)
1st quill spurious; 3d, longest; 2d, little shorter; 4th, rather less than 2d,
816 APPENDIX C.—BIRDS.
5. PARUS SEPTENTRIONALIS, Harris.-—Black-head Titmouse.
Parus septentrionalis, Harris. Proceed. Acad. Nat. Sc. Phil. II. 300 (Dec. 1845).
A single individual of this rare species was procured by Cap-
tain Stansbury. This bird was first described by Edward Harris,
Esq., from a specimen shot on the Yellow Stone River in July,
1843, and is the largest of the American species of true Black-cap
Titmice, three in number. It is not improbable that two species
may be confounded under the name of septentrionalis, as this spe-
cimen is quite different from one collected by R. H. Kern, in
New Mexico. The latter is, however, too much mutilated and
faded to serve as a proper standard of comparison, for whick we
must wait to get better specimens,
6. STURNELLA NEGLECTA, Audubon.—Western Lark.
Sturnella neglecta, Aud. Biog. 2d ed. VII. 340 (1848).
The distinctions between the old Sturnella ludoviciana and the
present species are quite obscure. A specimen from Fort Union,
presented to us by Mr. Audubon, agrees with the published cha-
racters in nothing but the bands on the middle tail-feathers, which
replace the scolloping seen in S. ludoviciana. ‘The tail is quite as
much rounded, and the bill of the same size. The Salt Lake bird
has the tail more square, and the bands on the middle tail-feathers
still more distinct than in the one from Fort Union. ‘The size is
fully as large as that of the common species. The specimen was
shot March 18, 1850, in the cafions between Salt Lake City and
the Hot Springs. This lark utters a single rough note like that
of the European starling.
LGA sserewes oss stsedetoanescas antoveeudevicaaaddapeece 104 inches.
EEO, Sancicwan < ohdcdeedsrviveeconls asqucnswanvalasdadtadees 165
7. NipHa@a orEGoNA, Audubon.—Oregon Snowbird.
Fringilla oregona, Towns. Journ. Acad. Nat. Sc. Phil. VIT. 188 (1837).—Aud.
Biog. V. 68, pl. 298, fig. 3, 4.
Fringilla hudsonica, Var. Licht. Abh. Ac. Wiss. Berl. for 1838, 424.
Fringilla nortonensis, Gm. I. 922, 87.
This interesting species, so similar to WV. hyemalis, or common
snowbird of the Atlantic’ region, replaces it in the Pacific. It
iw:
APPENDIX C.—BIRDS. 317
occurs abundantly in Oregon and California, as well as in New
Mexico and Utah.
Length of specimen shot March 21st........ a dead 52 inches.
FORECMIG Sanath inne a gtbee fea edad sect acdc sceis sib cosebwacd Get,
8. PrucHA LINCOLNII, Audubon.—Lincoln’s Finch.
Fringilla lincolnii, Aud. Biog. II. 539 pl. 198 (18384).
Peucea lincolnti, Aud. Syn. 118 (1839).
A specimen of this bird was shot at Salt Lake, March 21, 1850.
The species was first described from individuals killed in Maine,
since which it has been found in very small number—more abun-
dantly about Carlisle, Pa., than anywhere else. The Salt Lake
Specimen agrees with one brought from the upper Missouri by Mr.
Audubon, in having a more grayish tinge than that usually seen
in individuals from the Atlantic coast. The black marks on the
dorsal feathers are also larger and more decided. The bill, too,
appears a little smaller. These differences, however, are hardly
specific.
Length of Salt Lake specimen.............s000 esssseees 52 inches.
PPMECMG Sei tecd pte de ctrveusaiel svacneddelecdssuwdeben st obwaced Bip FE
9. LEUCOSTICTE TEPHROCOTIS, Swainson.—Gray-crowned Finch.
Linaria (Leucosticte) tephrocotis, Sw. Fauna Bor. Amer. II. 265, pl. 50 (1831).
Lrythrospiza tephrocotis, Aud. Synopsis, 125.—Nuttall’s Manual, 2d. ed. I. 632.
Fringilla tephrocotis, Aud. Biog. V. 2382, pl. 424, fig. 3.
Leucosticte tephrocotis, Bp. & Schl. Monog. des Loxiens, pl. 42.—Gray’s Genera
Avium, 536.
This exceedingly interesting bird was first described by Swain-
son and Richardson, from a specimen procured by the latter,
May, 1827, on the Saskatchewan River, in lat. 54°. But a single
individual was obtained, which was subsequently presented to the
Museum of the Zoological Society of London. From this, all the
published descriptions have been made, even that by Mr. Audubon,
who was unable himself to procure a specimen. For the sake,
therefore, of multiplying comparisons, we shall present an original
description taken from the bird brought home by Captain Stans-
bury. This was procured on the 21st of March, 1850, in Salt
Lake City.
Matz. General colour of back, scapulars, hind neck, belly,
318 APPENDIX (0.—BIRDS.
breast, and indeed of the entire foreparts, (excepting the crown,)
of a dull chestnut-brown, darkest on the chin, throat, and cheeks.
Feathers of the back and breast with light margins. Upper part
and sides of the head, including the lores, lower eyelid, and occi- —
put, (excluding ear-coverts,) ash gray, lighter behind. A patch
of dull black on the crown and forehead. Lesser wing-coverts,
rump, under and upper tail-coverts, sides of body, abdomen, and
thighs, having the feathers tipped with a beautiful purplish pink,
giving to the rump the appearance of transverse bands. Tail-
feathers dark-brown, narrowly margined externally with rose;
inner secondaries and primary coverts more broadly with dull
white, all the quills being faintly tipped with brown. Nostrils
covered by a tuft of whitish recumbent feathers; a similar tuft at
the side of the mouth. Bill, feet, and wings as described by
Richardson. |
DGGE vce sescey adouvesk Guest ates sa seueuce ines ener bals ieee 74 inches.
ECECU i sone teow dels naw eareecmun ewes ae noe tee edeis's weusars 12 ie i
Pleated. . tuscan cheetas is ins aaallsbebehy ann. penne 4h k:
EUs i aE em octane eee oe eee elie ee eee ys a
BD SE reeecie eau eaweisinw es ewe penile we ainteeme hey ate near ee
This species comes nearest to Leucosticte griseinucha of Brandt,
1842; L. griseigenys, Gould, an inhabitant of Russian America
and the Aleutian Islands. This latter species may, however, be at
once distinguished by the possession of gray cheeks and ear
coverts.
10. OrTocoRIS occIDENTALIS, McCall.
Otocoris occidentalis, McCall, Pr. A. N. S. Phil. V. 118 (June, 1850).
This species of sky lark is founded by Colonel McCall upon
an immature bird, shot near Santa Féin July. Captain Stans-
_bury’s specimen was killed near Salt Lake City, March 18, 1850,
und is, consequently, an adult, in winter plumage. It differs from
winter specimens of Otocoris alpestris, in having no yellow on the
throat and superciliary stripe, more black on the cheeks, and
Jess on the breast, and a very slight ferruginous tinge of the upper
parts and sides of the body. The white across the forehead is
more distinct. The bill is shorter, more slender, and more curved.
ce
pa erga lio Mel OB 2 Sn Og
APPENDIX C.—BIRDS. 319
From Alauda flava of Audubon it differs in the larger size,
and in having the middle tail-feathers like the upper coverts, in-
stead of being black.
11. Prous Torquatus, Wils.—Lewis’s Woodpecker.
Picus torquatus, Wils. III. 31, pl. 20, fig. 3 (1811).—Aud. Biog. V. 176, pl. 416,
fig. 7,8.
This beautiful woodpecker belongs to the Pacific fauna, not hav-
ing been observed east of the mountains. It occurs abundantly
along the western coast.
12. TeTRAO UROPHASIANUS, Bp.—Cock of the Plains, or Prairie
Cock; Sage Cock.
Tetrao urophasianus, Bp. Zool. Journal, III. 214 (1827).—Aud. Biog. IV. 503,
pl. 87; Syn. 205.
A single specimen of this magnificent bird was shot near the
mouth of Bear River, on the eastern side of the Lake, May 8th.
It is found on the plains skirting the Rocky Mountains, seldom
coming down to the Missouri, except far to the north. It is not
yet recorded as being found on the coast of California, although
abundant along the Columbia River. Its flesh is not usually con-
sidered edible, from feeding so much upon the artemisia or sage.
SELL Eke atnixarais ons stated aris cnciarisiistasiicte sins ei depsincaieaieteoerdemece 28 inches.
IP LOM ras «welees anas'stee des sawalcecaecgeslsewatoins deea setecaces So ee
13. CHARADRIUS vocIFERUS, L.—Killdeer.
Charadius vociferus, L. 258, 3;—Aud. Biog. IV. 191, pl. 225.
Common across the continent.
14. GRUS CANADENSIS, Temm.—Brown Crane.
Ardea canadensis, L. Syst. Nat. 234, 3.
Grus canadensis, Aud. Biog. III. 441, pl. 61.
The brown cranes were found during fall and winter in immense
flocks in the marshes along Salt Lake. They presented their
usual watchfulness and difficulty of approach. No white ones
320 APPENDIX C.—BIRDS.
were seen. Occurs in large flocks throughout the whole interior
of North America.
Length of, Pomigl gd ..cascseap racine icctanpen eecdeeaeeee eens 45 inches.
EEX HO tt 55s vis nuan: «cdbesikn wane aan Mena teee aout Mabe eae teen Tho
Legs, bill, and feet, black; eyes, orange. Male, 41 by 69.
15. BoTauRuS LENTIGINOSUS, Montagu.—Bittern.
Ardea lentiginosa, Mont. Orn. Dict. Suppl. 18138.—Rich. F. B. A. II. 874.—Nutt.
Man. II. 60;—Aud. Syn. 263.
Ardea minor, Wils. Am. Orn. VIII. 35, pl. 65, fig. 2 (1814).—Aud. Biog. IV. 296,
pl. 337.
This bird appears to be a great wanderer. Although an exceed-
ingly rare visitant in Europe, the species was first described from
a specimen shot in Ireland. It occurs throughout the United
States, West Indies, California, and the fur countries up to lat. 58°.
16. NUMENIUS LoNGIROSTRIS, Wils.—Long-billed Curlew.
Numenius longirostris, Wils. Am. Orn. VIII. 28, pl. 64, fig. 4 (1824).—Aud.
Biog. 240, pl. 231.
A specimen was shot on Antelope Island. The species occurs
abundantly throughout the interior of this country, along the Mis-
souri, and on the prairies. Common also in New Mexico and Cali-
fornia.
17. SYMPHEMIA SEMIPALMATA, Hart.—Willet.
' Scolopax semipalmata, Gm. 1. 659, 83.—Wils. Am. Orn. VIII. 27, pl. 56.
Totanus semipalmatus, Rich. F. B. A. II. 388, pl. 67.—Aud. Biog. IV. 510, pl. 274.
Catoptrophorus semipalmatus, Bp. Syn. 323 (1828).
Symphemia atlantica, Raf. Jour. de Phys. vol. 88, p. 417 (1819).
Shot on Salt Lake. Common both on the Atlantic and Pacific
coasts.
18. RECURVIROSTRA AMERICANA, Gm.—Avoset.
Recurvirostra americana, Gm. 698, 2.—Aud. Biog. IV. 168, pl. 318.
Salt Lake, March, 1850. Not noticed on the coast of the Pa-
cific.
ee
———- ts
APPENDIX (C.—BIRDS. ool
19. Cyanus AMERICANUS, Sharpless.—Swan.
Cygnus americanus, Sharpless, Silliman’s Journal XXII. 83 (1831).—Aud.
Biog. V. 133, pl. 411; Synopsis, 274.
Cygnus bewicki, Richardson, Fauna Bor. Am. II. No. 224.
Of two specimens shot March 10, 1850, in Jordan River, one
was in full plumage. The other, a male, not quite mature, had
the space in front of the eyes and the flattened space at the base
of the bill above, covered with scattered, minute feathers. The
orange spot is indicated through the feathers. The bill is black
at the tip, base, and along the commissure, and of a dull yellow-
ish in the intermediate area. Feet mottled. The older one mea-
sured 51 inches in length and 76 in extent. Weight, 15} pounds.
The young one, 47 by 71; weight, 94 pounds.
The range of this species is quite extensive. Inhabiting the
Atlantic in winter, especially Chesapeake Bay, it was found on
the Saskatchewan, in lat. 64°, by Sir John Richardson, and on
the Columbia River by Dr. Townsend, thus extending across the
continent.
20. ANSER ERYTHROPUS, L.—White-fronted Goose.
Anas erythropus, L. I. 197, 11.
Anas albifrons, Gm. 509, 64.
Anser albifrons, Nutt. Il. 346.—Aud. Biog. III. 568, pl. 280; Syn. 270.
Jordan River, Salt Lake, in March. Found in California, Ore-
gon, and east of the Rocky Mountains generally.
21. ANSER CANADENSIS, Vieill.—Wild Goose.
Anas canadensis, L. Syst. Nat. I. 198, 14.—Wils. Am. Orn. VIII. 52, pl. 67, fig. 4.
Anser canadensis, Rich. F. B. A. II. 468.—Nutt. Man. II. 849.—Aud. Biog. III. 6,
pl. 201; Syn. 270.
This common bird occurs entirely across the continent, being
found abundantly in California, Oregon, the Atlantic States, and
the intermediate country. In summer it goes northward to breed,
extending almost to the shores of the Arctic seas. This goose
constitutes the principal summer food of the inhabitants of the fur
countries, large numbers being salted down for winter use.
The specimens procured were shot on Salt Lake.
21
$28 APPENDIX C.—BIRDS.
22. ANAS BoscHas, L.—Mallard; Green-head.
Anas boschas, L. I. 205, 40.—Wils. Am. Orn. VIII. 112.—Nutt. Man. II.—Aud.
Biog. 164, pl. 221; Syn. p. 276.
Abundant on Jordan River. Found throughout the United
States, California, Oregon, and fur countries.
23. MARECA AMERICANA, Steph.—Bald-pate.
Anas americana, Gm. Syst. Nat. I. 526, 97.—Wils. Am. Orn. VIII. 86, pl. 69, fig. 4.—
Aud. Biog. IV. 337, pl. 335.
Mareca americana, Steph. Shaw. Zool. XII. 185.—Rich. F. B. A. II. 445.
The bald-pate, so well known in the Chesapeake Bay region,
for the impudence with which it robs the canvass-back of its
favourite food, the celery grass, was found in considerable num-
ber on the Jordan River. It is abundant in California and Ore-
gon, as well as the country east of the mountains.
24, QUERQUEDULA CAROLINENSIS, Bp.—Green-wing Teal.
Anas carolinensis, Gm. I. 533, 103.—Aud. Syn. 28.
Anas crecca, Wils. VIII. 101, pl. 70, fig. 4. Aud. Biog. III. 218, pl. 228.
Jordan River, March 26, 1850. This species appears to be
very abundant about Salt Lake. It is equally common in Califor-
nia, as well as east of the mountains. |
25. PTEROCYANEA RAFFLESII, King.—Red-breasted Teal.
Anas rafilesii, King. Zool. Jour. IV. 87, Suppl. pl. 29 (1828).—Jard. and Selby’s
Mlust. N. S. pl. 23.—Cassin, J. A. N. 8. IV. 195 (1841).
“¢ Anas ceruleata, Licht.”
<¢ Anas cyanopterus, Vieill.”
This beautiful species is now for the second time presented as
an inhabitant of North America. In 1849, Dr. Pilate, of Ope-
lousas, Louisiana, sent a specimen, shot in his vicinity, to the
Philadelphia Academy of Natural Sciences, which was announced
by Mr. Cassin as new to our fauna. The species was first founded
on specimens obtained by King, in the Straits of Magellan. It
frequents the coast of Chili, whence specimens have been sent by
Lieutenant J. M. Gilliss.
APPENDIX C.—BIRDS. 323
The Red-breasted Teal appears to be a common bird in Utah,
three having been shot in Jordan River. As the species has never
been described from a North American specimen, we subjoin the
following, taken from those brought by the expedition.
Ma.ze.—Head, neck, anterior part of body, sides, flanks, bar
across the vent, rich purplish chestnut, deepest and most lustrous
across the breast, faintest across the vent. Upper part of the head
to occiput, the chin, and lower tail-coverts, dull-brownish black.
Lower part of breast, belly, and abdomen, (encircled by the chest-
nut just mentioned,) obscure brown, and faintly glossed with gray-
ish and chestnut. Lower wing-coverts, subscapulars, and tips of
primary coverts, white, showing on the latter as a conspicuous
white patch. Shoulders, lesser coverts, and greater part of two
of the longest scapulars on each side, bright blue, (darkest on the
latter.) Speculum, grass green. Longest scapulars with a cen-
tral streak of yellowish white, and variously margined and mot-
tled with chestnut. Back, rump, and upper tail-coverts, margined
with dull chestnut. Bull black, feet yellow. Bull long, narrow,
somewhat wider towards the tip; nostrils oval, lamellar, rather
long. ‘Tarsi short, and feet small. Outer toe, without its claw,
about equal to the inner with claw. Tail rather long, wedge-
shaped, of fourteen feathers.
Total length (skin much stretched).........+sccsscsseessseesees 20 inches.
Jon) SND D0) 8 cect ocase poe g ose Bocnesons coer nmere ere anonne endbas <eaneroiar Aaa
set TEL Ig Sep ea aah nes does oaarannadnisowaceitan con ceason Su'cuigsiesmaict 275 “
CUDISS To -055 sein dnee Sa bre cag OSEP Es | Sos 0 gdee a cn cosddeoce rece er ede 1,4, “
ITO.CHS Gye CRG UTE AR Gannn sceene: © ochore Opes Seprenec ose sprr 6 lit“
aor ONAL se retcece aan nicnti's ec viaiiosisloeisaisiawas solos’ ageinaae sia Soy
1 Ditka coesoits padseden oeaceancaecena So cdd Hes" secu saushoaos HerSach ace inec 3), aie
FEMALE.—Similar in general pattern of colouration, the chestnut,
however, replaced by the mottled yellowish and brown character-
izing the female ducks. This pervades the whole inferior portions,
not excepting the tail coverts. The black of the head, and the
blue on the shoulders, (not on the scapulars,) are retained.
26. DaFILA AcuTA, Bp.—Sprig-tail Duck.
Anas acuia, L. I. 202, 28.—Aud. Biog. III. 214, pl. —
Salt Lake. Found across the continent.
324 APPENDIX C.—BIRDS.
27. FULIGULA AFFINIS, Eyton.—Little Black-head; Shuffler.
Fuligula afinis, Eyton, Mon. Anatide (1838).
Fuligula mariloides, Vig. Zoology of Beechy’s Voyage (1889).
Fuligula marila, Aud. Biog. IIT. 226, pl. 229.
Fuligula minor, Giraud, Birds of Long Island, p. 323 (1844).
Salt Lake, March 21, 1850. Found across the continent; very
common throughout the interior.
28. CLANGULA ALBEOLA, Bp.—Butter-ball.
Anas albeola, L. Syst. Nat. I. 199, 18.—Wils. VIII. 51, pl. 67, f. 2, 3.
Fuligula albeola, Aud. Biog. IV. 217, pl. 325.
Provost Fork, February 22, 1850. Occurs from the Adloniie
to the Pacific.
29. PELECANUS TRACHYRRHYNCHUS, Lath.—White Pelican.
Pelecanus Americanus, Aud. Biog. IV. 38, pl. 311; Syn. p. 309.
The only specimen in the collection is in the form of a skeleton.
This wants the peculiar vertical lamina of the bill, but in all pro-
bability belongs to the above species, the female of which is usually
without this appendage.
It is mentioned by Gambel as common on the coast of California.
In winter it is found in the Southern Atlantic and Gulf States,
and to some distance up the Mississippi yee Exceedingly
abundant about Salt Lake.
30. PHALACROCORAX DILOPHUS, Sw.—Cormorant.
Pelecanus (Carbo) dilophus, Sw. F. B. A. II. 473 (1831).
Phalacrocoraxz dilophus et floriduus, Aud.
Salt Lake.
31. CoLYMBUS GLACIALIS, L.—Loon.
Colymbus glacialis, L. Syst. Nat. I. 221, 5.—Sw. Faun. Bor. Amer. II. 474.—
Nutt. Man. II. 578.—Aud. Biog. IV. 48, pl. 306; Syn. 353.
This species of loon, shot on Salt Lake and brought in by Cap-
tain Stansbury, enables us to give to it a locality more western
APPENDIX (C.—BIRDS. 325
than any yet recorded. It is abundant throughout the United
States, where the difficulty of shooting it has passed into a proverb.
BIRDS COLLECTED IN NEW MEXICO BY LIEUT. ABERT.
1. Fanco spaRveRIvS, L.—Sparrow-hawk.
2. PIPILO ABERTI, Baird.
This species at first sight exhibits a strong resemblance to P2-
pilo fusca from Monterey, from which, however, it differs in many
characteristic features. ‘The colour above is of a nearly uniform
rusty-brown, or olive, no material difference in tint being descerni-
ble on the head and rump, as in P. fusca. Beneath, and on the
sides of the neck, the colour is much like that of the back, with a
stronger tinge of ferruginous, however, which becomes very decided
about the lower tail-coverts. The markings around the bill are
not very distinct, owing to the mutilated state of the specimen;
there appears, however, to be a tendency to black on the loral
feathers; the bristles also are black. The throat seems to be uni-
form in colour with the neck and breast, and unspotted. The tail
is uniformly coloured, and is destitute of the light tip of P. fusca.
The bill is much stouter than in P. fusca, as well as more curved.
The claws also are much stronger and larger, the tip of the outer
reaching to the middle of the middle one; while in P. fusca it only
extends to the base.
The general tint of plumage in P. aberti has decidedly more of
ferruginous than in P. fusca. The throat is uniform with the
breast, and unspotted; the rump too is uniform with the back; in
both these particulars differing from P. fusca.
The following table exhibits the relative dimensions of the two
species :—
P. aberti. PP. fusca. (Male.)
Menath: (approximate).........sceseneseneasrssnes 9 inches.
Wing folded and slightly curved............ 37% “ 37° inches.
MM TOTASCLON QUIS ys... 4.2.02 ssecescestnoee ens PT e: "
feealome, the ridge. Jil io.vscvoesvcesidedessscees ae Golway
Greatestidepth: of bill i.iiesssiesscieasecereeeenes Battle aq
Middle tail-feather beyond outer,............ +3“ 7 ey
Pe aN Dae See ges Usha o vile aatentiasenphls« dus snaiedioiatis'svele 43 OS ae
BANE ane den anictevaie talasidls noni eal Ue d's +0 deen sies'es oi Rah ee een
PROLIANT: TOD. vo he emesis edipisieaosdiees%solntnaieteras RS Fale a
PRM CLAT. scacct Costot Souk ses Peacicaececaducaees RR 6 4a CO
326 APPENDIX C.—BIRDS.
’ We have dedicated this species to its accomplished discoverer,
Lieutenant Jas. W. Abert.
. AGELAIUS XANTHOCEPHALUS, oe ee Blackbird. .
. Prous varius, L.—Yellow-bellied Woodpecker.
. CoLUMBA LEUCOPTERA, L.—White-winged Hott
. CALLIPEPLA SQUAMATA, Vig.—Blue Partridge.
=f - woe’ Oy pet OD
. CALLIPEPLA GAMBELI, Nutt.—Gambel’s Partridge.
Callipepla gambeli, Nutt. Pr. A. N. S. Phila. 1848.
Callipepla venusta, Gould, Pr. Zool. Soc. Lond. 1846.
Upper parts and breast, lead colour; crown and occiput, chestnut.
Base of bill, lore, chin, throat and sides of the neck, black, bounded
by a white band, broader on the sides. The eyes are included in
this black hood. The chestnut of the crown is margined with white,
bordered on each side with black. The lead-coloured feathers of
the sides and back of the neck are streaked with black along the
shafts. Sides, deep chestnut, broadly lineated with yellowish
white. Lower breast, whitish yellow. Indications of a black patch
on the belly. . Under tail-coverts dull white and black. A long
recurved crest of six (remaining?) keeled black feathers, the long-
est measuring 1? inches in length. Inner webs of scapulars mar-
gined with reddish. Tail much rounded, of twelve feathers; outer
14 inches shorter than the central. Wing, 4% inches; tail, 4; tar-
sus, 1. :
8. ACTITURUS BARTRAMIUS, Wils.—Field Plover.
9. RECURVIROSTRA OCCIDENTALIS, Via.—White-headed Avoset.
This species resembles &. americana in the general pattern of
its markings, but differs in having a pale-grayish white to replace
the buff of the head and neck. It is also decidedly larger, the
uncovered part of the tibia measuring 22 inches instead of 2 inches;
and the tarsus 4 instead of 84 inches. The hind claw is nearly
obselete. Bill 32 inches long.
Found abundantly in New Mexico and California.
a
APPENDIX (.—BIRDS. oot
LIST OF BIRDS
INHABITING AMERICA, WEST OF THE MISSISSIPPI, NOT DESCRIBED IN
AUDUBON’S ORNITHOLOGY.*
ARCHIBUTEO FERRUGINEUS, Licht. Abh. Ac. Wiss. Berlin for
1838. California.
ROsTHRAMUS SOcIABILIS, Vieill. Nouv. Dict., vol. 18, p. 318.
Miami River; Cape Florida.
STRIX FRONTALIS, Licht. Abh. Ac. Wiss.. Berlin. 18388. Cali-
fornia.
ACANTHYLIS VAUXII, Towns. Jour. Acad. Nat. Sc., Phila., III. 1,
p- 148. 18389. Columbia River.
CHORDEILES BRASILIANUS, (Gm.)—Lawr. Ann. N. Y. Lye. oe
1851. Rio Glande. Texas.
ANTROSTOMUS NUTTALLI, Aud. Biog. Birds, 2d ed. VII. 361,
pl. 495. 1847. Fort Union; California.
CERYLE AMERICANA, Boie.—Lawr. Ann. N. Y. Lyc. April,
1851. Texas, Rio Grande.
ORNISMYA cOsT#, Bourcier, Rev. Zool., 1839, p. 294. Cali-
fornia.
CoNIROSTRUM ORNATUM, Lawr. Ann. N. Y. Lyc., April, 1851,
pl. 4. Rio Grande, Texas.
PICOLAPTES BRUNNEICAPILLUS, Laf.—Lawr. Ann. N. Y. Lye.
April, 1851. Rio hind Texas.
TROGLODYTES ALBIFRONS, Giraud. Texas Birds. 1841. 7.
mexicanus, Sw. ‘Texas.
* The list includes a few specimens recently described from the region east of
the Mississippi. As already stated, the birds mentioned here will all be described
and figured by Mr. Cassin of Philadelphia, in his forthcoming work on the Birds of
North America, entitled, ‘Illustrations of the Birds of California, Texas,” &c.,
in continuation of Audubon.
328 APPENDIX C.—BIRDS.
VIREO HUTTONI,.Cassin, Pr. A. N. 8. Phila. V. 150. Feb. 1851.
Monterey.
VirEO BELLI, Aud. Orn. Biog. 2d ed., VII., 333, pl. 485.
1843. Fort Union; California.
VIREO ATRICAPILLA, Woodhouse, Pr. A. N. §S. Phila. VI.
April, 1852.
VIREOSYLVA PHILADELPHICA, Cassin, Pr. A. N. S., V. 153.,
Feb. 1851. Philadelphia.
VIREOSYLVA ALTILOQUA, Vieill. Ois. Am. Sept. 1. Pl. 38.
1807. Florida.
SIALIA MACROPTERA, Baird, Stansbury’s Report. 1852.
Lanius ELEGANS, Sw. F. B.A. 1831. Oregon; Fur countries.
LANIUS EXCUBITOROIDES, Sw. F.B. A. 1831. Oregon; Fur
countries.
HyYPocoLIUs AMPELINUS, Bp. Con. Gen. Ay. I. 336. 1850.
California.
IcTERIA VALASQUEZII, Bp. Proc. Zool. Soc. London. 1887.
California.
CULICIVORA ATRICAPILLA, Sw. Zool. [].—Lawr. Ann. N. Y. Lye.
Sept. 1851. Texas.
SYLVICOLA OLIVACEA, Giraud, Texas Birds, pl. 7. 1841. Texas.
VERMIVORA BREVIPENNIS, Giraud, Ann. N. Y. Lyc. Texas.
TURDUS RUFOPALLIATUS, Lafresn., Rev. Zool. 1840, p. 259.
Monterey.
MERULA OLIVACEA, Brewer, Proc. Boston Soc. Nat. Hist. I.
p. Fou.
Mimus LEUCOPTERUS, Vig. Zool. of Blossom, 18. 1839. Western
N. America.
Mimus Lonerrostris, Lafresn., Rev. Zool. 105, 1838. California
and Mexico.
ToOXOSTOMA REDIVIVA, Gambel, Pr. <A. N. S. Phila., II. 264,
Aug. 1845. Monterey.
APPENDIX C.—BIRDS. 329
TOXOSTOMA CURVIROSTRIS, Swainson, Matamoras.
ToxosToMA LECONTEI, Lawr. Ann. N. Y. Lyc., Sept. 1851.
Gila River.
Moracinua LEUCOPTERA, Vig. Zool. of Blossom, 1839. Western
N. America.
AGRODOMA SPRAGUEI, Aud. Orn. Biog. 2d ed., VII. 335, pl.
486, 1843. Fort Union.
SAXICOLA G@NANTHOIDES, Vig. Zool. Beechey’s Voyage, 1839.
N. W. Coast of America; Labrador?
SAUROPHAGUS SULPHURATUS, Swainson.—Gambel, in J. A. N.
S. Phila., I. 39. Gulf of California.
SAUROPHAGUS BAIRDII, Gambel, J. A. N. S. Phila. I. 40, 1847.
California.
Tyrannus cassintt, Lawrence, Ann. N. Y. Lyc. June, 1850.
Texas. )
TYRANNULA CAYANENSIS, Gm. ‘Texas.
TYRANNULA LAWRENCEII, Giraud, Texas Birds, pl. 2, 1841.
Texas.
TYRANNULA CINERASCENS, Lawrence, Ann. N. Y. Lyc. Sept.
1851. Texas and California. —
TYRANNULA FLAVIVENTRIS, Baird, Pr. A. N. 8. Phila., I. 283,
July, 1843. Carlisle, Pa.
TYRANNULA MINIMA, Baird, Pr. A. N. 8. Phila., I. 284, July,
1843. Carlisle, Pa.
PYROCEPHALUS RUBINEUS, Bodd, (P. coronata, Gould)—Law-
rence, Ann. N. Y. Lyc. April, 1851. Rio Grande, Texas.
SETOPHAGA VULNERATA, Wagler. ‘Texas.
SETOPHAGA BELLI, Giraud, Texas Birds, Pl. 4, fig. 2, 1841.
Texas.
SETOPHAGA RUBRA, Swainson, Phil. Mag. 1830. Texas.
SETOPHAGA PICTA, Swainson, Phil. Mag. 1830. Texas.
SETAPHAGA RUBRIFRONS, Giraud, Texas Birds. pl, Ty. fige alg
1841. Texas.
330 APPENDIX C.—BIRDS.
EMBERNAGRA RUFIVIRGATA, Lawrence, Ann. N. Y. Lye., pl. V.
fig. 2, April, 1851. Rio Grande, Texas.
EMBERNAGRA BLANDINGJANA, Gambel, Pr. A. N. 8. Phila., I.
p- 260. Rocky Mountains.
SALTATOR RUFIVENTRIS, Vig. Zool. Blossom, 19, 1839. Western
N. America.
EUPHONIA ELEGANTISSIMA, Bp. Proc. Zool. Soc. Lond., 1837.
Texas.
SPERMOPHILA ALBOGULARIS, Swainson.—Lawrence, Ann. N. Y.
Lyceum, Sept. 1851. Texas.
RHAMPHOPIS FLAMMIGERUS, Jard. Ill. III. pl. 131. Columbia
River, Oregon ?
CurysopoGa TYPIcA, Bp. Con. Gen. Av. I. 480, 1850. Calli-
fornia.
FRINGILLA MERULOIDES, Vig. Zool. Blossom. Monterey.
ZONOTRICHIA QUERULA, Nutt. Man. I. 555, 2d ed. 1840.
Z. comata, De Wied. Missouri River.
ZONOTRICHIA GAMBELI, Nutt. Orn. I. 557, 2d ed., 1840. Co-
lumbia River.
ZONOTRICHIA CASSINII, Woodhouse, Proc. ae N. 5S: "Pitas
April, 1852. Texas.
CHRYSOMITRIS LAWRENCEII, Cassin, Pr. A. N. S. Phila., V. 105,
pl. 5, Oct. 1850. San Diego, California.
PrprLo FuscA, Sw. Phil. Mag. 1827. California.
PIPILO OREGONA, Bell, Ann. N. Y. Lye. 1848. Oregon.
PIPILO ABERTI, Baird, Stansbury’s Report. 1852. New
Mexico.
EMBERIZA LECONTEI, Aud. Biog. Birds, 2d ed., VII. 338, pl.
488. 18438. Fort Union.
EMBERIZA BAIRDII, Aud. Biog. 2d ed., VII. 359, pl. 500.
1843. Fort Union.
EMBERIZA BILINEATA, Cassin, Pr. A. N. 8., Phila. V. 104, pices
Oct. 1850. Rio Grande, Texas.
APPENDIX (.—BIRDS. 8el
Emprriza BELLI, Cassin, Pr. A. N. 8. Phila., V. 104, pl. 4.
Oct. 1850. San Diego, California.
Carpopacus ozBscurnus, McCall, Pr. A. N. S. Phila., V. 220.
June, 1850. Santa Fe.
CARPODACUS FAMILIARIS, McCall, Pr. A. N. S. Phila., VI.,
April, 1852. New Mexico.
CoccoOTHRAUSTES FERREO-ROSTRIS, Vig. Zool. Jour. IV. p. 352.
1828-9. N. W. coast America; California.
CARDINALIS sINUATUS, Bp.—Lawrence, Ann. N. Y. Lye.
April, 1851. Rio Grande, Texas.
PYRRHULA INORNATA, Vig. Zool. of Blossom, 20. 1887.
Western N. America.
LEUCOSTICTE GRISEINUCHA, Brandt, Orn. Ross. 1842. Aleutian
Islands. (L. griseogenys, Gould.)
PLECTROPHANES MACCOWNII, Lawrence. Ann. N. Y. Lye. Sept.
1851. Western Texas.
PASSERELLA UNALASCHENSIS, Bp. Con. Gen. Av. 477. 1850.
Unalascha.
PASSERELLA RUFINA, Brandt, Orn. Ros. Sitka.
HuspizaA arctica, Bp. Con. Gen. Av. 469. 1850. (Hmberiza
chrysops, Pall.) N. W. Coast.
ALAUDA RUFA, Lath.—Aud. Orn. Biog. 2d ed., VII. 353, pl. 497.
1843. Texas.
OTOCORIS OCCIDENTALIS, McCall, Pr. A., N. 8. Phila., V. 218.
June, 1851. Santa Fé. Salt Lake City.
STURNELLA NEGLECTA, Aud. Biog. 2d ed. VII. 389, pl. 489.
1843. Upper Missouri; Utah; New Mexico; California.
QUISCALUS MAcRoURUS, Sw.—Lawrence, Ann. N. Y. Lye. April,
1851. Rio Grande, Texas.
SCOLECOPHAGUS MEXICANUS, Sw. 24 Cent. Birds, No. 66. 1838.
(Quiscalus brewertt). Fort Union, Missouri; California.
PENDULINUS CALIFORNIANUS, Less. Rev. Zool., 1844, p. 486.
California.
832 APPENDIX (C.—BIRDS.
PSAROCOLIUS AURICOLLIS, De Wied., Reise, 367. Missouri
River.
XANTHORNUS MEXICANUS, Briss.—Vigors, Zool. Blossom. Pacific
Coast N. America.
XANTHORNUS AFFINIS, Lawrence, Ann. N. Y. Lye. April, 1851.
Rio Grande, Texas.
IcTERUS cUCULLATUS, Sw.—Lawrence, Ann. N. Y. Lye. April,
1851. Rio Grande, Texas.
IcTERUS MELANOCEPHALUS, Wagler, Isis, 1829, p. 756. Texas.
IcTERUS VULGARIS, Daud.—Aud. Orn. Biog., 2d ed., VII. pl. 499.
1843. South Carolina.
IcTERUS FRENATUS, Licht. Isis, 1843, p. 59. Greenland?
Mexico.
CHAMEA FASCIATA, Gambel, Pr. A. N.S., Phila., II. 265. Aug.
1845. California.
LOPHOPHANES SEPTENRIONALIS, Harris, Pr. A. N. §., II. 300.
Dec., 1845. Upper Missouri; Rocky Mountains; Salt
Lake.
LOPHOPHANES INORNATUS, Gambel, Pr. A. N. 8. Phila., II. 265.
California.
LOPHOPHANES WOLLWEBERI, Bp. Comptes Rendus. Sept.
1850. (P. annexus.) Cassin, Oct. 1850, Rio Grande,
Texas.
LOPHOPHANES ATRICRISTATUS, Cassin, Pr. A. N.S. Phila., V. 103,
pl. 2. Oct. 1850. Rio Grande, Texas.
PARUS MONTANUS, Gambel, Pr. A. N.S. Phila., I. p. 259. New
Mexico.
GYMNOKITTA CYANOCEPHALA, De Wied., Reise. Upper Missouri;
Rocky Mountains.
OYANOCORAX cOoRONATUS, Sw. Phil. Mag. 1827. Texas.
CYANOCORAX LUxUosUS, Lesson.—Lawrence, Ann. N. Y. Lye.
April, 1851. Rio Grande, Texas.
CYANOCORAX CASSINII, McCall, Pr. A. N. S. Phila, V. 216. . Fane, |
1851. Santa Fé.
APPENDIX C.—BIRDS. 333
GARRULUS CALIFORNICUS, Vig. Zool. Blossom, pl. 5. 1839.
Monterey, California.
Pica BEECHEYII, Vig. Zool. Jour. IV. 358. 1828-9. Mon-
terey,
CKOTOPHAGA ? New Orleans. Mr. Audubon’s collection.
PIAYA CAYANENSIS, Gambel, J. A. N.S. Phila., I. 25. Gulf of
California.
GxOococoyx AFFINIS, Hartlaub, Rev. Zool., 1844, p. 215. Cali-
fornia.
GeEococcyx viaTicus, Wagler—McCall, Pr. A. N. 8. Phila., V.
220. June, 1851. Texas and New Mexico.
MELANERPES ALBOLARVATUS, Cassin, Pr. A. N. S. Phila., V.
106. October, 1850. Sutter’s Mill, California.
_ MELANERPES FORMICIVORUS, Swainson.—Nuttall’s Man., I. 166.
, Santa Barbara, California.
CENTURUS SANTACRUZII, Bp. Pr. Zool. Soc. Lond. 1887, p. 16.
Western Texas. 7
CENTURUS FLAVIVENTRIS, Swainson, 23 cent., Lardner, Cab.
Cyclopedia. Texas.
CENTURUS ELEGANS, Sw.—Lawrence, Ann. N. Y. Lyc. April,
1851." 24 cent. Rio Grande, Texas.
COLAPTES MEXICANOIDES, Lafres. Rev. Zool., 1844. California.
CoLapres avREsi1, Aud. Biog. Birds, 2d ed., VII. 348, pl. 494.
18438. Fort Union. }
CoLAPTES COLLARIS, Vig. Zool. Blossom, p- 24, pl. 9.; Zool.
Jour. IV. 854, 1828-9. Monterey.
Picus scaPuLaRis, Vig. Zool. Jour. IV. 353, 1828-9. San
Blas, California.
Picus nurrauui, Gambel, Proc. A. N. S., Phila., I. 259. (P. wil-
sonit, Malherbe.) California.
Picus scaLaris, Wagler, Isis, 1829. California and New Mexico.
Picus LecontvEI, Jones, Ann. N. Y. Lyceum, IV. 489. Georgia.
CoLUMBA SOLITARIA, McCall, Pr. A. N.S. Phila., IT. 233, July,
1847. Matamoras.
334 APPENDIX C.—BIRDS.
CoLUMBA FLAVIROSTRIS, Wagler—Lawr. Ann. N. Y. Lyceum.
April, 1851. Texas, Rio Grande. ,
PENELOPE POLIOCEPHALA, Wagler.—McCall in Pr. A. N.S. Phila.,
V. 222. Matamoras and Rio Grande.
ORTALIDA VETULA, Wagler.—Lawr. Ann. N.Y. Lyceum. April,
1851. Texas, Rio Grande.
CYRTONYX MASSENA, Gould.—McCall, Pr. A. N. 8. Phila., V.
221. San Pedro and Rio Pecos, New Mexico.
CALLIPEPLA GAMBELI, Nutt. Pr. A. N. 8. Phila, I. 260. April,
1843.—Callipepla venusta, Gould, Pr. Zool. Soc. Lond.,
1846, p. 71. New Mexico and California.
‘CALLIPEPLA prota, Dougl. Linn. Trans. Lond. California.
CALLIPEPLA ELEGANS, Less. Cent. Zool., pl. 61. California.
CALLIPEPLA DOUGLASSII, Vig. Zool. Jour., IV. 3538. 1828-9.
Monterey, California.
CALLIPEPLA SQUAMATA, Vig. Zool. Jour., V. 275. 1830. New
Mexico.
STREPSILAS MELANOCEPHALUS, Vig. Zool. Jour., IV. 358.
1828-9. Monterey.
NUMENIUS RUFIVENTRIS, Vig. Zool. Jour., IV. 856. 1828-9.
Pacific coast of N. America.
MACRORHAMPHUS SCOLOPACEUS, Lawrence, Ann. N. Y. me
Mississippi Valley. (Limoea sbolopacea, Say).
RECURVIROSTRA OCCIDENTALIS, Vig. Zool. Jour., IV. 356. San
Francisco. New Texte,
ANSER NicRIcANS, Lawr. Ann. N. Y. Lyc., 1846. Atlantic
coast.
ANAS UROPHASIANUS, Vig. Zool. Jour., IV. 353. 1828-9,
_ N.W. coast N. America.
DENDROCYGNA ARBOREA? Penn. Mexico. South Carolina?
DENDROCYGNA AUTUMNALIS, Hyton.—Lawr., Ann. N. Y. Lye.
April, 1851. Rio Grande, Texas.
CYANOPTERUS RAFFLESII, King. Salt Lake, Utah. Louisiana.
APPENDIX C,—BIRDS. 835
OIDEMIA VELVETINA, Cassin, Pr. A. N.S. Phila, V. 126. Decem-
ber, 1850. Atlantic coast. (O. fusca of former authors).
LARUS BRACHYRHYNCHUS, Gould, Pr. Zool. Soc. Lond., 1841, pl.
106. July, 1848. Zoology of the Sulphur, pl. 834. Wes-
tern N. America.
LARUS BELCHERI, Vig. Zool. Jour., IV. 858. 1828-9. Pacific
coast of North America.
STERNA ELEGANS, Gambel, Pr. A. N.S. Phila., IV. 129. Decem-
ber, 1848. Mazatlan.
Sterna oasprA, L.—Lawrence, Ann. N. Y. Lyc. May, 1850.
Atlantic coast, U. 8.
PROCELLARIA MERIDIONALIS, Lawrence, Ann. N. Y. Lyc. Fe-
bruary, 1847. Indian River, Florida.
THALASSIDROMA FuURCATA, Lath.—Gould, Zool. Sulphur. Rus-
sian America.
THALASSIDROMA FREGETTA, Kuhl.—Lawrence, Ann. N. Y. Lye.
April, 1851. Florida.
PHALACROCORAX PERSPICILLATUS, Pall. Zool. Ros. As., IL. 308.
Gould, Zool. Sulphur, pl. 32. Russian America.
PHALACROCORAX PENICILLATUS, Brandt. Monterey.
Urnia BREVIROSTRIS, Vig. Zool. Jour., IV. 857. 1828-9. Pa-
cific coast of N. America.
MERGULUS CIRROCEPHALUS, Vig. Zool. Blossom. 1839. Pacific
coast of N. America.
- MERGULUS CASSINII, Gambel, Pr. A. N.S. Phila., II. 266. Au-
gust, 1845. Coast of California.
PTYCHORHAMPHUS ALEUTICUS, Brandt, Bull. Sc. St. Peters-
burg, II. 1887. Aleutian Islands.
BRACHYRHAMPHUS WRANGELI, Brandt, Bull. Sc. St. Peters-
burg, IT. No. 20. Aleutian Islands.
BRACHYRHAMPHUS BRACHYPTERUS, Brandt, Bull. St. Peters-
burg. Unalaschka.
336 APPENDIX (C.—REPTILES.
REPTILES.
————
By SPENCER F. BAIRD anp CHARLES GIRARD.
me
SIREDON LICHENOIDES, Baird.
Ps...
Spec. cuar.—Body uniform blackish brown, covered all over with licheniform
patches of grayish yellow; snout rounded; tail compressed and lanceolated ;
toes broad and short.
The addition of an authentic new species to the genus Stredon
will justly be considered as of great interest to herpetologists.
Two species are now clearly ascertained to exist; perhaps a third,
if the one mentioned by Prof. Owen* be really such. It is not impro-
bable that many more exist, as we have accounts of many localities
of «fish with legs,” in various parts of Mexico, New Mexico, and
Texas, although, as yet, we have been able to procure only these
two species. ‘The possession of these, however, allows a comparison
of characters by which the absolute generic features of the group
can be better ascertained.
The figures hitherto published of S. mexicanus, and the imper-
fect sketch of S. maculatus, are far from being satisfactory, and
do not allow any accurate comparison to be made of their specific
features. As these will have to be critically redrawn in order to
meet the wants of science, we have endeavoured to obtain,
and we hope with success, figures of S. léchenozdes that will enable
future comparisons to be satisfactorily made. Our specimen is a
little more than six inches and a-half in length, the figures being
all of natural size. Whether this. be the absolute size of the
species which it represents, we are unprepared to state. If such
was the case, it is considerably smaller than S. mexicanus. The
tail forms nearly the half of the entire length, and the head a little
less than the fifth of the same.
The head is ovoidal, much broader than deep, and the snout
rounded, a character which at once will disttmguish our species
* Annals and Magazine of Natural History, xiv: 1844, 23.
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- APPENDIX C.—REPTILES. 837
from S. maculatus, the chief character of which consists in the
truncated snout. The eyes are of medium size, situated behind
the angle of the mouth. Their position and size in S. maculatus
we do not know accurately, but in S. mexicanus these organs
would be considerably smaller and more approximated to the end
of the snout, judging of these peculiarities from the various
sketches given of that species, and proportionally much smaller
than in a specimen of Stredon in our possession from the city of
Mexico, and of about the same size as our S. lichenoides. If these
proportions are correct in the drawings of S. mexicanus, we would
undoubtedly have a species which could not be accurately charac-
terized until further information should be obtained. The nostrils
are very small and near the end of the snout. The body is sub-
cylindrical, subfusiform, broader and deeper at its origin than on
any point backward. ‘The tail is very much compressed, elongated,
and tapering intoa point. The dorsal membrane commences at the
occiput, rising gradually until the middle of the tail, whence it di-
minishes again toward its pointed tip. The membrane under the tail
is lower than that above, extending from behind the vent to the tip
of the tail, and reaching its greatest height on its anterior third, but
diminishing more rapidly forward than backward. The anal open-
ing is very large, elongated, and rendered very conspicuous by the
great development of the fleshy masses which constitute its margin.
The presence of four external flaps, provided with respiratory
fringes, is a generic character, belonging to all the species hitherto
known. Their real appearance has been misrepresented in many
sketches, as we could satisfy ourselves by the examination of two
Species preserved in alcohol. The branchial fringes do not extend
all along the upper edge of the branchial flap. They occupy
densely the lower edge of that cutaneous appendage from its
origin to its tip, and thence for a short space above, but much
less developed here than below, as we have endeavoured to show
in the profile of fig. 2. The fringes themselves are very much
flattened, tapering, and disposed upon a double row, so that each
of them appears as if double; but it is easy to ascertain that the
row on either side does not combine with the other.
The fore and hind legs have nearly the same length when mea-
sured from their bases to their extremities; the hind ones, however,
are much thicker, and the toes of both pairs are neither so slender
nor so elongated as in S. mexicanus and S. maculatus.
The ground colour is blackish brown; there are irregular patches
22
338 APPENDIX C.—REPTILES.
of grayish yellow spread all over the body, head, and tail, remind-
ing us of surfaces over which lichens grow, whence the specific
name by which we designate this species.
It was caught by R. H. Kern, Esq., in Spring Lake, at the head
of Santa Fé Creek, in New Mexico, accordingly a member of the
fauna of the basin of the Rio Grande del Norte.
In a revision of the North American Tailed Batrachia, published
in the Journal of the Academy of Natural Sciences, 2d series, vol.
i, p- 281, (1849,) we intimated a doubt as to whether Siredon or
the axolotls were adult animals. Their wonderful resemblance to
the larve of Ambystoma punctata was our chief ground for this
belief. Since then, however, we have seen the description and
figures by Sir Everard Home of 8. mexicanus, in which he clearly
indicates, in one individual at least, ovaries distended with eggs.
We have also seen specimens with the genital apparatus present-
ing the tumid and highly developed appearance of salamanders in
general, when in the breeding season.
CNEMIDOPHORUS TIGRIS, Baird and Girard.
Pl. II.
Spec. cHaR.—Scales on the subguttural fold small in size; four yellowish, indis-
tinct stripes along the dorsal region.
This species, one of the most elegant of its genus, is the third
hitherto described as found in the United States, for we have no
doubt that the lizard referred to in Long’s expedition, under the
name of Amezva tesselata, will come under this genus, and be closely
allied to our species. No specimen of this being extant at the
present time in any known collection, a direct comparison with the
other species of Cremidophorus was not possible. That A. tesselata,
however, although closely allied to, is not identical with our species,
we think that any one will be convinced on comparing Say’s de-
scription with the figures in pl. IJ. These are of natural size, and
exhibit most admirably the structure of the regions in their most
minute details. The plates of the head above (fig. 3), below (fig. 2),
and on the sides (fig. 1), need no further description. The minute
scales of the back and upper portion of the legs contrast strikingly
with the eight rows of large scales of the belly and those of the
lower part of the hind legs, as well as with those of the inferior
surface of the head and throat. On the tail again, the scales
assume another character, well opposed too; they are longer than
oes, nen es ;
Avker usr bar's aT RYoadway wy : =
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O° dba lh ok ae
APPENDIX C.—REPTILES. 339
broad, arranged in annular rows, or else verticillated and slightly
carinated. The tail is cylindrical, and two and a-half times the
length of the body and head together: it tapers gradually and
terminates in a point.
The ground colour appears to have been bluish yellow, marked
with irregular patches of black. In some specimens, four longitu-
dinal yellow stripes may be seen extending from the occiput to the
base of the tail, and occasionally to a little distance on the latter.
In the young state, the black patches predominate, unite, and form,
as it were, the ground colour, and the yellow constitutes irregular
small spots.
A series of individuals of different sizes were collected by Capt.
Stansbury in the valley of the Great Salt Lake.
Genus CrotapHytus, Holbrook.
Gen. cHar.—Head covered with small and polygonal plates. The occipital pro-
per, minute. Teeth on the jaws, pterygoids and palatines, rudimentary on
the latter. Broad auditory aperture. Femoral pores present; no anal ones.
Tail very long.
Of the genus Crotaphytus, a typical form peculiar to North
America, but one single species has hitherto been discovered, the C.
collaris, observed for the first time by Major Long’s party, on their
expedition to the Rocky Mountains. The discovery of a second
species of this genus within the limits of the United States will be
received with interest: both of these have a very close generic re-
lationship, the differences being found in some minor details of their
structure.
The generic characters are the following :—The occipital region,
vertex, and front are covered with small and polygonal plates. On
the superciliary region and around the nostrils the plates are
scarcely larger than the scales of the back. The odd occipital
plates are inconspicuous, being but very little-larger than the sur-
rounding ones. The auditory apertures are broadly open. Teeth
exist on the maxillaries, palatines, and pterygoids; conical, acute,
and slightly curved on the anterior part of the jaws, they are com-
pressed and tricuspid on the posterior. The palatine teeth are
rudimentary. The skin is folded under the throat. The scales of
the upper part of the body are polygonal, and smaller than those
of the lower part, or belly, and tail; those under the head have
nearly the size of those of the back. The femoral pores are very
340 APPENDIX C.—REPTILES.
distinct ; the anal ones are wanting. The tail is cylindrical, longer
than the body and head together.
The genus Crotaphytus differs from Holbrookia in having exter-
nal auditory apertures, teeth on the pterygoids, and but a minute
occipital plate. The shape of the head is likewise more elongated
and pointed in front.
CROTAPHYTUS WISLIZENII, Baird and Girard.
PurateE III.
Spec. coaR.—Head proportionally narrow and elongated. Cephalic plates and
scales on the back very small. Yellowish brown, spotted all over with small
patches of deeper brown or black.
C. wislizenii has the same general form and appearance as C.
collaris, exhibiting the same contracted neck and fold under the
throat, the same compact body, the same cylindrical and elongated
tail, and the same shape and proportions of locomotive members
and terminating toes. The differences by which the two are dis-
tinguished, although of a comparatively minor character, are readi-
ly appreciable when both are directly compared. Thus the head
of C. wislizenii is proportionally more elongated and narrower than
that of C. collaris. The small and polygonal plates which cover its
upper surface and sides are smaller, as well as those of the lip of
the lower jaw. ‘The scales of the back are likewise smaller, and
those of the belly larger. The tail 1s somewhat longer, and its
scales larger in C. collaris; these are subverticillated in both
species, and subcarinated from the middle of the back toward its
extremity. The pores of the lower surface of the thighs are more
conspicuous in C. collaris, independently of the fact that they are
generally less so in the female than in the male of the same species.
Immediately behind the vent, at the origin of the tail, there exists,
in the male, a row of large scales more uniform in C. collaris than
in C. wislizenit. The specimen figured on our plate III. being a
female, these anal plates are not to be seen in fig. 4.
In the colours of the body distinctive marks will at once be
found. (. collaris possesses on the sides of the neck a double
band of black bordered with white, which does not exist in O. wis-
lizenti. The upper surface of the body of the former is scattered
all over with small yellow dots, which indeed are found in the lat-
ter, but are much smaller and more numerous, having in addition,
intermixed with them, irregular roundish brown spots, extending
Pv Pa
a
APPENDIX (C.—REPTILES. 341
even to the head. The tail is irregularly annulated with brown
and yellow.
Nothing is known of the habits of the crotaphyti. We found
in the stomach of one specimen of the C. wislizenit the remains of
a species of Cnemidophorus allied to C. sexlineatus.
The specimen which we have had figured was caught near Santa
Fé, by Dr. Wislizenus, during the Mexican war. ‘To him we take
great pleasure in dedicating it, in testimonial of his zeal for science,
during the arduous duties of an army surgeon, while attached to
Colonel Doniphan’s command. On his return, the specimen was
sent to Dr. Le Conte, and by him kindly transmitted to the Smith-
sonian Institution. The same species was obtained by Colonel J.
D. Graham, between San Antonio and El Paso del Norte, while
on his journey to the boundary-line, in May last.
Genus HoLtBrooxta, Girard.
Syn. Cophosaurus, Troscu. Arch. f. Naturg. (1850, I.) 1852.
GEN. cHAR.—Head covered with small and polygonal plates. No auditory
aperture. No teeth on the palatine bones. A fold of the skin on the breast.
Femoral pores present, but no anal ones.
This genus was established in 1850, upon a small lizard, much
less remarkable in its general aspect than in its structure. In its
appearance it is so similar to certain species of the Chilian procto-
treti, that at first glance no one could suppose it to be different
from the latter genus. But in examining it more attentively, we
find no external opening to the ears, a fact that cannot but strike
the observer. There are no teeth on the palatines—another
character which distinguishes Holbrookia from Proctotretus. Both
of these genera have a fold under the throat, but the former has
femoral pores, which are wanting in the latter. The anal pores are
absent in Holbrookia, while they exist in Proctrotretus.
The genus Holbrookia will, no doubt, prove somewhat related
to Crotaphytus, having, like the latter, the upper surface of the
head covered with small and polygonal plates, and well-developed
femoral pores. The elongated tail of the crotaphyti, although so
disproportionate when compared to Holbrookia maculata, will no
longer appear as a feature peculiar to the genus, so soon as we
shall have an opportunity to give a description and a figure of
another species of the same genus, and which was lately collected
by Mr. John H. Clark, zoologist to Colonel J. D. Graham, while in
charge of the survey of the United States and Mexican boundary.
342 APPENDIX (C.—REPTILES.
As these pages were passing through the press, we received the
numbers iv. and y. for 1850, and ii. and iii. for 1851, of the «« Archiv
fiir Naturgeschichte.” The present editor of that periodical,
Dr. Troschel, describes, in the fourth number for 1850, a new
saurian genus, under the name of Cophosaurus, a species of which
was brought to Germany by the geologist, Ferd. Roemer, who visited
Texas some years ago. Having the same saurian in our possession,
collected in the same locality, as a second but undescribed species
of our genus Holbrookia, we could readily identify the genus
Cophosaurus. It is to be regretted that the description of our
genus Holbrookia which reached Germany in the summer of 1851,
that is before the publication of the number iv. of the Archiv. fiir
Naturgeschichte for 1850, has been overlooked by this able
German zoologist. The absence of auditory apertures, <aures
externe null,’ which is the most striking character of our genus,
would have struck Dr. Troschel, had he been aware of our descrip-
tion in the Proceedings of the American Association for the Ad-
vance of Science, fourth meeting, held at New Haven, in August,
1850.
As it may hereafter be questioned which of these generic names
has the priority, inasmuch as the volume in which Cophosaurus is
published bears the date of 1850, we deem it proper to call atten-
tion to the fact that its publication took place in 1852. LHven at
the date at which we write these lines, (April, 1852), the year
1850 of the Archiv. fiir Naturgeschichte has not been completed.
This fact shows how an author may be deprived - the fruit of his
labours by an anachronism of this kind.
HoLBROOKIA MACULATA, Girard.
Pu. VI. Fic. 1-3.
Syn. Holbrookia maculata, Girarp, Proc. Amer. Assoc. Ady. Sc., IV. (1850),
1651, 201.
Sprc. cHAR.—Tail about the length of the trunk. Head subcircular, slightly
conical in front. Pectoral fold bordered with large scales.
The general form of this species is rather thick and short than
elongated, especially in the female: the young and the males are
more slender. The body is subcylindrical, the tail conical and
very stout at its origin, tapering however suddenly away. The
entire length is between three and four inches, as shown by the
pareoi (el
mney
379 Broadway NY
Ackerman Lith
4-8. PHRYNOSOMA MODESTA, Girard
ia
Fig 1-3. HOLBROOKIA MACULATA Girard.
¥
APPENDIX C.—REPTILES. 343
figures, all of which are drawn of natural size. The tail is of the
length of the body, the head excluded. The latter is oval, broader
than high; its summit being convex, and its snout truncated. It is
‘covered with small, irregular, and polygonal plates, larger on the
middle line of the skull than above the eye, the nose, and the nape.
There is a supraorbital carina, with small elongated plates,
scarcely to be seen with the naked eye. The infraorbital plates
are less numerous, but longer. ‘The eyes occupy the middle of the
length of the head. The eyelids are bordered by a row of minute
and pointed plates, forming a serrated edge. The nostrils are
nearer the end of the snout than the eye. ‘The angle of the mouth
extends to the posterior rim of the orbit. ‘The upper jaw is bor-
dered with a row of small, very elongated plates, obliquely imbri-
cated. Margining the lower jaw there are two rows of small an-
gular plates, the larger ones being at the angle of the mouth.
There is a single row of small conical teeth on both jaws; those
in front are acute and slightly recurved; those behind stouter and
erect, with a carina separating the rounded crown from the body
of the tooth. The posterior extremity of the tongue has a semi-
lunar notch. As observed in the generic paragraph, there are no
external auditory apertures; the tympanum is covered by scales
altogether similar to those of the neck. On both sides of the
neck and immediately behind the angle of the mouth, is a fold of
the skin, which vanishes in a depression under the head. Farther
backward, and on the breast, is situated another fold, constituting
an elegant neck ring, which, however, does not extend higher than
the shoulders.
The anterior legs are shorter and more slender than the poste-
rior. There are five toes, similar in each pair of limbs, elongated,
slender, terminated by a compressed and recurved nail. The toes
and nails of the posterior limb, however, are a little longer in pro-
portion to the limbs themselves. The fourth toe is the longest.
the two external ones the shortest, the second and third nearly
equal. There are eleven femoral pores on each thigh.
The scales are slighty imbricated, subcarinated on the back and
sides, smooth underneath. They are smaller on the neck and at
the base of the limbs than on the sides and back. ‘Those on the
tail are indistinctly verticillated. The smallest ones are found
under the head, in the region of the gros and behind the vent;
they are larger on the abdomen than under the tail. The toes
are entirely covered with scales.
344 APPENDIX C.—REPTILES.
The colour, according to a drawing made from life by an artist
of great merit, Mr. William H. Tappan, while on the River Platte
in 1848, is olivaceous brown, slightly violaceous on the sides of
the head. On each side of the body there are two, sometimes
three oblong spots, of a deep black ; and on the body two rows of
quite large, irregular blackish-brown patches, with a band of a
lighter colour between eachrow. ‘There is an indication of a third
row of these patches, less apparent, however, in the male, in which
again we find two orange-red lines, the uppermost extending to
the end of the snout in passing over the eye; the other fol-
lows the lower jaw. In advance of the eyes the orange hue of
these lines passes into brighter yellow.
This species inhabits the valley of the Platte River, as collected
there by W. H. Tappan. We have received several specimens
from Texas, collected by General Churchill, one of which is the
original from which the accompanying drawings have been made.
The individual represented is a female.
Genus Uta, Baird and Girard.
GEN. CHAR.—Upper part of body covered with minute scales; a pectoral fold;
auditory apertures ; femoral pores, but no anal ones.
The genus which we now establish will not fail to attract the
attention of herpetologists, having a relation to both Sceloporus
and Holbrookia. The former genus it resembles in having the
upper surface of the head covered with similar scales, and in being
provided with auditory apertures. On the other hand, the body is
covered with scales, like those in Holbrookia, while on the tail they
are much large than in any of the above genera, thus contrasting
greatly with those of the back. The genus Uta, moreover, has a
subgular fold of skin, constituting a neck-ring similar to that in
Holbrookia. Its elongated tail would recall to mind the genus Cro-
taphytus, were not the palatine teeth absent. Femoral pores
exist, while anal ones are wanting.
Besides the species described below, this genus embraces two
others, one of which is entirely new to science, and was sent in by
Colonel J. D. Graham from the boundary-line, and which we eall
Uta ornata; while the other was described as a Sceloporus, and first
as a mere variety of S. grammicus, afterward, however, separated
under the specific name of S. microlepidotus. The minutenessof -
APPENDIX C.—REPTILES. 345
the scales to which it makes allusion becomes now a generic charac-
ter. Thus the species included in the genus Uta are, generally
speaking, of a smaller size than the scelopori proper.
UTA STANSBURIANA, Baird and Girard.
Pu. V. Fia. 4-6.
Spec. cHAR.—Tail slender, elongated, and conical, provided with large scales
arranged in verticils; a subgular fold in addition to the pectoral one.
This species is one of the handsomest and most graceful among
the small saurian forms peculiar to North America. In its general
aspect it recalls to mind the cnemidophori, having, like the latter,
the body covered with small polygonal scales, while on the tail
the scales are large, elongated, and verticillated. The proportions
in length between the body and tail, and the fold under the throat,
are likewise similar in both Cnemidophorus and Uta. But when we
compare the shape and structure of the head in the two, we detect
differences which are not merely generic, but cause them to belong
to different families. The upper surface of the head is covered
with small and polygonal scales, as in Sceloporus, Crotaphytus, and
Holbrookia; its shape is rather rounded than conical or elongated,
and is broad and flattened, while it is narrower and higher than
broad in enemidophori and allied genera. The body is subfusi-
form, the tail slender, conical, and nearly one and a-half times the
length of the body and head together.
The occipital plate is polygonal and comparatively large; three
or four superciliaries, the vertical and frontal plates, are a little
larger than the many others by which they are surrounded. —
The nostrils are very conspicuous, and approximated to the end
of the snout; they are situated interior to the prolongation of the
superciliary ridge, and composed of elongated and narrow plates.
The rostral plate is narrow, and is scarcely to be seen when viewed
from above, but much more conspicuous than in Holbrookia when
looked at in front. The plates lining the margin of the Jaws are
quadrangular, elongated, and much narrower on the upper than
on the lower jaw. Under the chin, three or four pairs of polygonal
scales are considerably the largest. Between the latter and those
on the margin of the lower jaw two other rows may be seen, com-
posed of scales a little larger than the subgular ones. ‘The audi-
tory aperture is moderate, surrounded by irregular folds of the
skin which extend under the throat; from its anterior edge pro-
346 APPENDIX C.—REPTILES.
ceed three or four conical and acute scales; the posterior pectoral
fold is provided along its margin with a row of large, smooth, and
subquadrangular scales. The anterior and upper surface of the
locomotive members are covered with scales nearly of the same
size of those of the belly, but carinated and a little narrower pos-
teriorly. Scales, similar to those of the belly, extend on the lower
part of the hind legs, are somewhat larger, especially on the an-
terior margin. The toes are slender and terminated by short,
pointed, and slightly recurved nails. ‘The small scales which cover
the middle region of the back, from the anterior limbs to the
origin of the tail, are somewhat longer than those of the occiput
and sides from the ear to the hind limbs. ‘The posterior part of the
thigh and groins are covered with minute scales similar to those
of the sides of the body. The largest scales are seen on the tail,
as already observed; they are verticillated and strongly carinated.
The colour below is uniform greenish-yellow, except under the
head, where the green predominates, intermingled with brownish,
narrow bands. Above it is blackish-brown, marbled with greenish-
yellow, or whitish-yellow irregular dots. Sometimes a double row
of dorsal patches of a deeper black may be seen along the back in
some individuals, recalling to mind a similar distribution of colour
in Sceloporus scalaris, S. graciosus, and Holbrookia maculata.
This species is from the valley of the Great Salt Lake, where it
was collected by Captain Howard Stansbury ; in remembrance of
whose services to the country and to science we have designated
it under the name which it now bears.
ScELOPORUS GRACIOSUS, Baird and Girard.
Pu. V. Fic. 1-38.
Spec. cHaR.—Head subconical; scales of the back proportionally large; tail of
medium size, slender and conical.
This small and graceful species has a much greater affinity with
the Mexican Sceloporus scalaris than with S. undulatus of the
United States. The most striking character, as compared with S.
scalaris, consists in the marked difference in size between the
scales of the back and those of the base of the tail. The latter is
proportionally longer than in S. scalaris, and shorter than in S&.
undulatus. The body of our species is subcylindrical, and rather
short; the specimen figured being a female, the abdomen is repre-
APPENDIX C.—REPTILES. 347
sented in a state of too great expansion. The head is ovoidal, de-
pressed, subconcave above. The occipital plate is heptagonal,
broad, and linear posteriorly, pointed and very acute anteriorly.
It is surrounded by twelve smaller plates, six of which, very small,
line the posterior edge, while the dther six are distributed on the
remaining circumference, three to the right and three to the left.
There are two vertical plates, the anterior one the largest and pen-
tagonal. In advance of the latter, seven or eight polygonal frontal
plates form a conspicuous group, while near the extremity of the
snout the plates are as minute as the scales on the neck. The
plates which line the margin of the jaws are small, narrow, elon-
gated, and inconspicuous. On the chin there are three pairs compa-
ratively larger and conspicuous. ‘The scales on the back are spade-
shaped and strongly carinated from the neck to the tip of the tail.
On the latter region they are a little more acute posteriorly and
verticillated. On the sides of the abdomen they are smaller, and
their outline less regular. The abdominal scales are smooth, .
irregularly lozenge-shaped, bidentated posteriorly as in S. scalaris.
The opening of the ear is subtriangular, protected by several pro-
jecting scales arising from its anterior edge. The toes and nails
are very slender; the latter are proportionally long and slightly
eurved. When the fore legs are stretched backward, the tip of
their toes will reach to the knees of the hind ones when the latter
are brought forwards.
The brillianey of the general hue having disappeared by immer-
sion in alcohol of the specimens collected, we are not prepared to
describe this accurately. As to the markings, they differ somewhat
from those of S. scalaris. The row of the large crescent spots
along the back is more compact, and not so distinctly bordered
with white. The yellowish band that runs from behind the eyes
backward to the middle of the tail is much broader; and besides,
there is a second similar band extending from below the snout, and
passing under the eye and above the auditory aperture, to the in-
sertion of the hind locomotive limbs; the sides, therefore, are not
ornamented with vertical, slightly undulating dark stripes; the
irregular patches that are seen on that region are entirely deprived
of any white margin. The abdomen in the male is blue indigo, as
in most species of the same genus. The neck and throat are uni-
color in both sexes.
This species inhabits the valley of the Great Salt Lake, where
it was collected by Captain Stansbury and Lieutenant Gunnison. |
348 APPENDIX (C.—REPTILES.
ELGARIA SCINCICAUDA, Baird and Girard.
Pu. IV. Fie. 1-8.
Syn. Tropidolepis scincicaudus.—Skilt. Amer. Jour. of Sc. VII. 1849, 202, fig. 1-8.
Spec. cuarn.—Dusky green above; light ash colour below. Eleven transverse
black bands on the back, interrupted on the dorsal line; white dotted pos-
teriorly, six or more on the tail. Thirteen to fourteen rows of scales, well
carinated.
The individual of this species which we have had figured, although
not quite full-grown, exhibits, nevertheless, all the essential charac-
ters for its identification and specific distinction. A much younger
specimen was figured by Mr. Skilton, in the seventh volume of the -
second series of the American Journal of Sciences and Arts, where
it is given as a species of Zropidolepis. ‘The scales, indeed, are
carinated, but this is not a character peculiar to the genus Tropi-
dolepis. A closer examination soon reveals the characteristic
features of the gerrhonoti, of which the genus Higaria is a mere
subdivision. ‘The conical and tapering tail, which is longer than
the body and head together, forms the prominent distinctive mark
of the genus in which we place the present species. The longitudi-
nal area of minute scales, which extends from behind the ears to
the insertion of the hind legs, belong to gerrhonoti generally, and
distinguishes them from Tropidolepis or Sceloporus. In elgaria
and gerrhonoti, in general, there are neither femoral nor anal
pores, while their existence in Sceleporus will enable any one to
distinguish between them.
The hind legs of H. scincicauda are slightly longer and stouter
than the anterior, not taking the toes into consideration, as those
of the hind feet are generally much the longest. The head is flat-
tened, and has the shape of an acute triangle, the summit of which
would be rounded. The snout therefore is rather elongated, with
the end conical. The plates which cover its upper surface are
smooth, and faithfully represented m fig. 3. The scales of the
back constitute twelve or thirteen rows, each of which is provided
with a medial carina, or ridge, extending over the tail. The scales
of the belly and lower surface of the tail are smooth; on the ab-
domen they form twelve rows, the middle one being composed of
larger scales. Fig. 2 exhibits the differences of the scales under
the head, throat, belly, and tail. The scales form transverse as
well as longitudinal rows, not only on the tail, as is often the
ease, but likewise on the body itself. Those on the throat and-
.
pues) y PLO ‘WANVINOLUAS NOGOLLSHId 9-9 — Prratg Be pareg' VONWOIONIOS WIAWO vo) tu
Jue dt As tape Yu] Utada doy
APPENDIX (0.—REPTILES. | 849
lower surface of the head alone seem not subjected to any serial
order. | }
Possessing only specimens that have been immersed in alcohol,
and therefore have lost their general hue, we can only, in allusion
to the colour, remark that the upper part of body and tail have
transverse and irregular, sometimes undulating, and sometimes
angularly broken bands of deep brown or black. ‘Ten of these
bands belong to the body from the occiput to the origin of the tail.
On the tail itself they extend more or less toward the tip, accord-
ing to the size of the specimen.
This species inhabits Oregon, about the Dalles of the Colum-
bia River, where it has been collected by Rev. George Geary. A
specimen in our possession, from California, was collected by
Colonel Frémont. That which is represented on our plate we owe
to the kindness of Dr. Avery J. Skilton.
PLESTIODON SKILTONIANUM, Baird and Girard.
Pu. IV. Fic. 4-6.
Spec. cHaR.—Head small, continuous with the body; tail stout, very long, and
subquadrangular; olivaceous brown, with four broad bands of black.
This is a species of skink which must strike any one familiar
with the general appearance of the other species of the same
genus inhabiting North America. The tail, although considerably
developed in all the skinks of the genus Plestcodon, acquires in
this species much greater proportions. In the specimen figured,
the tip of that organ is wanting, but when restored, the whole
organ would be nearly twice the length of the rest of the body and
head. Its form is rather subquadrangular than conical, and pre-
serves a general stoutness which is not seen in the other species,
in which it tapers more suddenly from its origin to its tip. The
body is subcylindrical, and nearly of the same thickness from the
occiput to the tail, into which it passes almost imperceptibly. The
_ head itself is rather small, subconical, rounded on the snout; it is
continuous with the body, the neck being but slightly contracted.
The plates of its upper surface are represented in figure 6, which
will serve as a good term for comparison with the other species.
The locomotive members are very short; the fore ones rather
slender, the hind ones stouter. ‘The toes are terminated by deli-
cate and slender nails, curved at their tip. The scales have a
very smooth appearance; when examined attentively, those of the
850 APPENDIX C.—REPTILES.
back and tail, however, exhibit four or more longitudinal furrows
or stripes on each of them. |
The lower part of the head and throat is whitish, the belly
bluish. Above, olivaceous brown, with two broad bands of black
on each side, and perhaps two narrow ones on the back extending
from the head to the anterior region of the tail. A whitish or
perhaps yellowish stripe extends from the opening of the ear to
behind the hind legs, and a similar one from the occiput to the
origin of the tail.
This species inhabits the same location in Oregon as Higaria
scincicauda. The specimen figured, together with several others,
were collected by Rev. George Geary, and sent by him to Dr.
Avery J. Skilton, to whom we are indebted for their examination,
and to whom we have dedicated it, as a slight acknowledgment of
gratitude.
Genus CHURCHILLIA, Baird and Girard.
GEN. CHAR.—Three pairs of frontal plates; a very small loral, and several
postorbitals. Scales carinated.
In spite of the great uniformity in the plan of structure of
ophidian reptiles, and especially of the genera Coluber and Tropi-
donotus, we do not hesitate in separating generically from both of
these, the species hereon described.
The genus Churchillia has three pairs of frontal plates, one
more than in both Coluber and Tropidonotus ; the middle pair,
however, is subjected to some irregularities, by which, instead of
one pair, there is only an odd plate. In either case it 1s a con-
stant character proper to our genus. There is a small loral plate
and several postorbitals.
The scales of the upper part of the body are carinated, as in
tropidonotus, but the lateral row, which is contiguous to the
ventral shields, is scarcely larger than the other—while in Tropi-
donotus, the scales composing that row are much the largest.
CHURCHILLIA BELLONA, Baird and Girard.
Spec. cHar.—Body yellowish, with a series of large subhexagonal patches of
brown, bordered with black, and two or three rows of smaller patches on the
sides. A brownish black band across the eyes, from top of head to the angle of
the mouth. : ;
This snake attains a considerable size. The tail, properly so
called, is comparatively very short, forming only the ninth part
en Lee eS 8 we
APPENDIX C.—REPTILES. 351
of the length. The head is moderate, conical, detached from the
body by a somewhat contracted neck. The eyes are comparatively
large, occupying the middle of the length of the head. There are
two anterior orbital plates, the uppermost very large, vertically
elongated, reaching the upper surface of the head; the lower one,
on the other hand, is very minute, situated between the third and
fourth labial shields. The postorbitals are four in number, of
medium, but nearly of equal size, the upper ones, however, being
slightly the largest. The lower one is separated from the small
anterior orbital by the fourth labial shield, which reaches the orbit.
The scales of the back and sides are keeled, elliptical in form,
and a little more pointed posteriorly than anteriorly. On the
occiput they are smaller, polygonal, and smooth.
The coloration of this snake resembles at first glance that of
Coluber eximius; the ground colour is a light yellowish-brown,
-maculated with large patches of a deeper brown, margined with
black, and much smaller patches of pure black. The dorsal row
of brown patches is considerably the largest, as in Coluber eximius.
On the abdomen there are two rows of small and semilunar black
dots, the convexity of which is turned forward. A narrow band
of black is seen on the upper surface of the head, in advance of
the eyes, extending obliquely to the angle of the mouth, being
only interrupted by the eye itself.
‘This species was collected by General Churchill, on his march
to Mexico, on the left bank of the Rio Grande, at the crossing
_ near Presidio del Norte, in 1846; and it is with much satisfac- ‘
tion that we embrace the occasion to pay a tribute of respect to
one, who, during the exercise of his arduous official labours, has
always found time for the advancement of natural history, by
securing specimens of whatever new or interesting species of
animals might fall in his way.
COLUBER MORMON, Baird and Girard.
Spec. cHar.—Posterior frontal plates very large; vertical plate long and very
narrow on its middle; eyes very large.
The only specimen which we have seen of this snake may prove
hereafter to be a young individual, as it is only one foot and a half
long; but we are satisfied it will also prove to be a very distinct spe-
cies. The slender and conical tail forms between a third and a fourth
of the total length. The head is elongated and ovoidal, separated
352 APPENDIX C.—~REPTILES.
from the body by a contracted neck. The vertical plate is elon-
gated and contracted on its middle. The posterior pair of frontal
plates has almost twice the size of the anterior pair. The eyes are
proportionally very large, protected below by the fourth and fifth
labial shields, anteriorly by a large and a small orbital plate, and
posteriorly by two of nearly the same size, if not of the same shape.
The loral is proportionally very much developed. The nostrils are
prominent. There are eight labial plates to the upper jaw and
seven to the lower. The scales are smooth, elongated on the back,
and posteriorly pointed, while on the sides they are broader, and
the row contiguous to the ventral shield is composed of scales
broader than long. On the posterior part of the head, as usual,
the scales are subcircular, or polygonal, and much the smallest.
On the tail they assume rather a lozenge shape. There are one
hundred and seventy-five ventral shields from the throat to the
vent.
The colour is brown above and yellow underneath, with a bluish
tint along the sides of the abdominal region. On the back there
is a row of transversely elongated patches of deep brown, bordered
with black. ‘The sides are spotted with three indistinct rows of
small spots of brown and black intermixed.
This species was found by Captain Howard Stansbury’s party,
in the valley of the Great Salt Lake.
e HETORODON NAsicus, Baird and Girard.
Sprc. cuar.—Minute and numerous frontal plates instead of two large pairs;
two brown stripes over the head; temporal patch very broad.
The essential character which distinguishes this species from
the H. platyrhinos and H. simus, which it most resembles, con-
sists in the presence of numerous small scales between the vertical
and rostral plates; that is, on the space which is occupied by the
two pairs of frontal plates. In H. simus, it is true, very minute
scales may be occasionally observed on the middle line between
the vertical, rostral, and frontal plates; but when this is the case,
the latter are not feaneed to the small s size which they have in the
species which we here describe.
The vertical plate in H. nasicus is circularly sibhesagamel
The superciliaries are longer than the vertical, and thus longer
than broad, while the occipital are broader than long. The nasal
APPENDIX C.—REPTILES. Bs
is proportionally large, and so is the lower loral plate, as there
exists a second loral above the first, much smaller than any of
those of the orbital circle. A specimen of H. simus examined by
us has shown a second similar small loral on one side of the head,
while on the other it evidently did not exist, so that it may prove
either not to be constant in H. nasicus, or to be likewise found
in other species of the same genus. ‘The rostral plate is directed
upward, as in H. simus, having the same general shape as in the
latter. ) |
The tail has the same proportions with regard to the body as in
Hi. platyrhinos, that is about the sixth of the entire length. The
eyes are considerably smaller than in H. platyrhinos, as we have
compared specimens of both species, having the same length and
size of body. The only specimen of H. nasicus which we have
seen is not a foot long, so that we have had to compare with it
the young of H. platyrhinos. Now, if our H. nasicus be im-
mature, it is the young of a species which differs from those already
known of the genus, as shown by the very great difference in size of
the eyes, and those other characters which we have just described.
In coloration, our species resembles more that of H. platyrhinos
than that of H. semus. The ground colour appears to be the same.
There are in both species three rows of blackish-brown patches,
bordered with a line of light yellow or white; but while these
patches are elongated in H. platyrhinos, they assume a more circular
shape in H. nasicus, although there is no regularity or sym-
metry about them. ‘Two indistinct and much smaller rows exist
on the sides. The lower part of abdomen and tail is almost en-
tirely black. The throat and lower surface of head are unicolor,
of the same hue as the ground colour of the body above. On the
occiput, immediately behind the occipital plate, there is a lan-
ceolated patch, and on both sides of this a much greater irregu-
larly oval one. ‘Two brown stripes are seen on the top of the
head, one over the anterior half of the eyes, extending vertically
to the mouth, and another over the posterior half of the eye, hence
obliquely backward, forming over the temples an elongated but
much broader patch than in H. platyrhinos and H. simus.
This species was collected in Texas by General Churchill: a
Specimen is preserved at the Smithsonian Institution.
23
354 APPENDIX (.—REPTILES.
A MONOGRAPHIC ESSAY ON THE GENUS PHRYNOSOMA.
By CHARLES GIRARD.
THE numerous specimens of nearly all the known species of
this genus which are now preserved in the Smithsonian Institution,
together with those at the Academy of Natural Sciences of Phila-
delphia, have enabled us carefully to study and compare the
different members of that most remarkable group, the result of
which we propose here to present.
Indeed, there are no genera in the saurian order that can so
readily be distinguished as that of Phrynosoma. The body more
or less circular in shape, always depressed, sometimes flattened,
scattered all over with irregular and spine-like scales; the solid
and subtriangular head provided with acute spines or tuberculous
knobs, the short and conical tail covered with scales similar to
those of the body, sometimes even more prominent, are as many con-
spicuous features, which must strike any one at the very first glance.
Their general aspect, perhaps their sluggishness, may recall to
mind a frog or a toad: hence the vulgar name of horned toads or
frogs. But the naturalist, with no hesitation, recognises in them
true saurians, inasmuch as the body, instead of being smooth, like
that of either toads and frogs, is covered, as just stated, with
scales of a peculiar character. Besides the spines of the head, the ~
tail, although short, is another feature by which they disagree
from both toads and frogs. So much when these animals are at
rest: as soon as they move, the observer cannot fail to be struck
with the fact that phrynosomas never jump or leap, as is the
- case with the batrachians, to which they have been compared.
If we look now more closely at the zoological peculiarities proper
to the genus Phrynosoma we will see that the vertex is a promi-
nent feature of the head, subtriangular or cordiform, with a sharp
and projecting margin, forming a carina which overlaps the orbits;
sometimes it is terminated posteriorly by two spines, one on each
side. The occipital region generally presents the largest spines
in those species in which these exist as a prominent feature. The
APPENDIX (.—REPTILES. B50
temporal region is very much developed and projects over the au-
ditory aperture, and is provided along its projecting margin with
spines or conical plates, the largest of which is most approximated
to the occiput. The eyes seem as if situated in the middle of a
groove extending from the snout to the occiput, on account of the
projection of the superciliary ridge and temporal region. The
lower jaw is generally bordered with a row or two of large plates,
which vary in structure and shape according to the species, and
furnish good discriminating characters between them. The snout
is either truncated or acute. The nostrils are conspicuous, and
situated near the extremity of the snout, either within the inner
margin of the superciliary ridge, or on its direct prolongation.
The upper surface of the head and sides not occupied by the
spines or tuberculous knobs, are covered with small polygonal
plates, varying in size according to the area over which they extend.
The surface of these plates is rugose, wrinkled or keeled, as is also
the surface of the spines themselves. ‘They are exceedingly sniall
in advance and behind the orbits. The whole surface of the eye-
lids is covered with minute scales of a granular appearance; the
margin of the eyelid itself is ornamented with a double row of sub-
quadrangular plates, a little larger than the granules of its surface.
The lower part of the head from the chin to the breast is covered
with small scales, characteristic in each species. The neck is
generally very short, appearing as if contracted, the result of
which contraction would be the presence of several folds of the
skin, concealing the auditory apertures in conjunction with the
temporal projection of the head. )
The scales on the upper surface of the body are very irregular
in size and shape; on the neck, above and below, on the pits,
along the sides of the back, and on the groins, they assume a gra-
nular appearance, while along the middle of the back and on the
tail they appear like thin lamellz, very irregular still, and cari-
nated or subcarinated. All over the back, sides, tail, and hind
legs, there are large, irregularly pyramidal scales, with an acute
point and a wrinkled or carinated surface. The margins of the
abdomen exhibit one or two horizontal rows of these pyramidal
but soft scales, bent backward, extending from the fore legs to
the hind ones. The species in which the scales of the back are the
largest, is Phr. coronatum, which strikes every one by its rough ap-
pearance; while those in which the scales are the least developed
are Phr. platyrhinosand Phr. modestum, whose external appearance
356 APPENDIX (C.—REPTILES.
is in great measure destitute of that roughness which is generally
associated with the idea of these reptiles.
The abdominal scales are subquadrangular or lozenge-shaped,
either smooth or slightly keeled, according to the species. On
the breast and anterior portion of the shoulders several rows of
the largest scales are seen, very prominent, very acute posteriorly,
and strongly carinated or keeled. The anterior and upper portion
of the thigh is likewise provided with large scales, but much less
conspicuously keeled than on the shoulders.
The tail is stout, always depressed at its base: it diminishes
very rapidly posterior to the vent, and becomes cylindrical toward
its tip. The pyramidal and raised scales are sometimes more con-
spicuous on its sides and upper surface than on the body itself.
The scales below the tail, in the vicinity of the vent, have the
general appearance of those of the belly; in the post-anal groove
some larger scales may occasionally be seen. Here the scales
assume a subverticillated arrangement. On the conical portion of
the tail they are carinated, while they are generally smooth about
the vent.
The anterior and posterior legs are nearly of equal size; the
latter, however, are slightly stouter. The toes, five in number,
are neither short nor very long; the first and fifth are the shortest
and either of equal length, or the fifth may be a little longer; the
second and fourth somewhat longer than the first and fifth, and
likewise either of equal length, or the fourth somewhat longer
than the second; the third is always the longest. The scales ex-
tend all over the toes, overlapping even the base of the nails: they
assume a subtriangular shape, with a very acute posterior summit,
and a very distinct carina on their middle. The nails themselves
are curved, compressed at the base, and very acute at the tip.
On the inferior surface of the hind legs, along the thigh, a series
of pores is observed, the femoral pores varying in number and con-
spicuousness according to the species. ‘The anal pores are ‘ata
absent in phrynosomas.
We are thoroughly acquainted with six species of the genus
Phrynosoma, viz. Phr. coronatum, Phr. cornutum, Phr. douglassit,
Phr. modestum, Phr. orbiculare, and Phr. platyrhinos.
Phr. harlant is identical with Phr. cornutum; Phr. wieg-
mannt, with Phr. orbiculare; and Phr. blainvillet, with Phr.
coronatum. |
After a. mature examination of Prof. Holbrook’s description of.
APPENDIX (C.—REPTILES. BOT
Phr. orbiculare, we have been led to the belief that the species de-
scribed under that name is neither the Phr. orbiculare of Wiegmann,
nor any of the other just mentioned, and indicates a species the
characters of which cannot be properly defined, since the original
specimens were not preserved. The species is said to occur in
Arkansas, Louisiana, and Texas, that is, within the geographical
range of Phr.cornutum. Nowitis remarkable that among the nume-
rous phrynosomas which have been received from these regions, all _
of them were found to belong to Phr. cornutum ; unless the species
be very rare, this circumstance cannot well be accounted for. Phr.
orbiculare is exclusively Mexican, and Phr. cornutum North Ameri-
ean. If any other species be found with Phr. cornutum within
the limits ascribed in the United States to Phr. orbiculare by the
author of the North American Herpetology, we do not hesitate in
pronounciny it distinct from Phr. orbiculare of Wiegmann.
Dr. Wiegmann has indicated another species of the genus Phry-
nosoma, under the name of Phr. bufonium, and Surinam was first
given as its home. But in his «‘ Herpetologia Mexicana,”’ he is
in doubt as to the locality whence that species comes. -Phr.
bufoniwm is identified with Phr. cornutum by John Edward Gray in
the catalogue of the British Museum. If Pahr. bufoniwm be an
inhabitant of South America, we doubt the correctness of this
identification.
In the absence of authentic data in reference to Phr. bufonium,
we would lay that species aside, and come back to the six ones the
characters of which are well ascertained, and five of them repre-
sented with great skill on the accompanying plates. The different
views of the head of these species have been made in similar atti-
tudes’in order to facilitate the comparisons.
A glance at plate VIII, will show at once the specific oe
between Phr. cornutum (fig. 1-6) and Phr. coronatum (fig. T-12).
The profile, the position of the eyes and nostrils, the polygonal
plates of the head, the direction of the spines, need scarcely to be
alluded to, to render the differences apparent. The scales of the
inferior surface of the head (fig. 8 and 9) exhibit a still more
striking difference of form and arrangement in the two species.
The femoral pores in Phr. cornutum (fig. 6) are but little conspicu-
ous; they are much more so in Phr. coronatum (fig. 12), although
the figure does not represent them as such. ‘The only specimen
on hand at the time at which this figure was made being in a dried
state, the fleshy parts had shrunk and the femoral pores were thus
358 APPENDIX (C.—REPTILES.
reduced and concealed. On specimens preserved in alcohol they
are found as distinctly marked as in Phr. douglassi of plate VII,
fig. 10.
If we compare now Phir. douglassit with the two preceding ones,
its rounded and anteriorly truncated head gives to it a peculiarly
different aspect. The reduced cephalic spines constitute another
feature quite as striking, especially when combined with the aspect
of the upper surface (fig. 6). The lower surface of the head being
covered with uniform scales, there is no possibility of mistaking it
either for Phr. cornutum, which has a row of larger scales extend-
ing from the chin to the throat, or for Phr. coronatum, in which the
dissimilarity in the shape of these scales is still greater.
Phrynosoma platyrhinos seems at first very similar to Phr.
douglassiz, on account, no doubt, of the small development of the
cephalic spines and the uniformity of the scales of the lower sur-
face of the head. But we need only compare the vertex, the oc-
cipital plates (fig. 1 and 6), the margin of the lower jaw (fig. 3
and 9), the profile (fig. 2 and 7), and the position of the nostrils
(fig. 4 and 9), in order to become satisfied of the specific distinction
between these two species.
The chief difference between Phr. modestum and Phr. platyrhinos
are not to be found prominent in the head, but rather in the gene-
ral structure of the body and tail. The specimen which we have
had figured being a young one, these differences might appear too
trifling. But recently we have received from Colonel J. D. Gra-
ham, a series of full-grown individuals, by which it can be shown
that this species, which we had distinguished from the others upon
an immature specimen, appears still more distinct upon the ex-
amination of the adults. In comparing attentively the figures
which we now give of Phr. modestum, the differences will appear
evident. The vertex is much more inclined forward in Phr. modestum
(Pl. VII. fig. 2) than in Phr. platyrhinos, (P1.VI. fig. 6). The plates
which line the margin of both the upper and lower jaws are likewise
different, as well as the scales of the inferior surface of the head,
which are proportionally smaller in Phr. modestum than in Phr.
platyrhinos. |
Of Phr. orbiculare we have seen only two specimens, and these
were young individuals. But there is something so striking in its
features as to enable us at once to distinguish it from its congener.
Its snout is flattened, and the extremities of the jaws much more
protruded than in any other species; it therefore differs greatly
- APPENDIX. C.—REPTILES. 359
jn that respect from Phr. platyrhinos, modestum, and douglassiz,
with which it has in common the small and uniform scales on the
inferior surface of the head. In the mean while, that same charac-
ter distinguishes it from Phr. cornutumand coronatum. The femoral
pores are very conspicuous. ‘The plates which line the jaws are
proportionally much smaller than in any other species.
The genus Phrynosoma is a truly American type. The distri-
bution of its species over the continent is as follows :—Phr. orbicu-
lare in the vicinity of the city of Mexico and in Sonora; Phr. cor-
nutum, from Texas to Arkansas as far as the Rocky Mountains ;
Phr. platyrhinos, in the valley of the Great Salt Lake; Phr. mo-
destwm, in the valley of the Rio Grande del Norte ; and Phr. coro-
natum and Phr. douglassiz, in Oregon and Caieema: the latter
species extending as far eastward as the valley of the Grad Salt
Lake, where it has been observed in company with Phr. platyrhinos.
The division of phrynosomas into two groups, according to the
position of the nostrils, whether situated within the internal margin
of the superciliary ridge or at its extremity, would bring into one
group Phr. orbiculare, coronatum, and douglassi, and into another
Phr. cornutum, platyrhinos, and modestum. On the other hand, if we
subdivide the species according to the shape of the profile, we
would have on one side: Phr. orbiculare, cornutum, and coronatum,
and on the other Phr. douglassit, platyrhinos, and modestum. Phr.
douglassiz is the only species in which the cephalic spines remain in
an undeveloped state. Phr. coronatum and cornutum have a double
series of horizontal pyramidal scales on the periphery of the
abdomen, while in Phr. orbiculare, douglassii, and platyrhinos,
there is only one series of these, very small already in the latter,
and totally absent in Phr. modestum. The difficulty of establishing
subdivisions in this genus is thus plainly evident, and shows how
natural and well circumscribed it is when considered as a whole by
itself.
We give now the diagnostic characters by which the six species
of Phrynosoma may be distinguished.
J. PHRYNOSOMA ORBICULARE, Wiegm.—Profile declive, tips of
of jaws protruded, nostrils situated at the anterior extremity of
the superciliary ridge. Occipital and temporal spines strong and
well developed. One row of pyramido-horizontal and abdomino
peripheral scales. Scales on the inferior surface of head, small,
of a general uniformity, although irregular in shape. The plates
on the margin of the jaws are inconspicuous, and very little larger
360 APPENDIX (C.—REPTILES.
than the others: the lower jaw is bordered with a double row of
plates, the small size of which is the most striking feature in this
species. The scales on the belly are subtriangular, posteriorly
acute, and slightly keeled in the young individual under considera-
tion; they are smooth in the adult. Femoral pores well developed.
Lower surface. of the body maculated with irregularly elongated
blackish spots.
II. PHRyNosoMA cornuTUM, Gray.—(PI. VIII, fig 1-6.)—Same
general profile as preceding. Nostrils situated within the internal
margin of the superciliary ridge. Occipital and temporal spines.
longer and more acute than in the preceding species (fig. 1, 2,
and 4), A double row of pyramido-horizontal and abdomino-peri-
pheral scales. Scales on the inferior surface of the head small
and slightly keeled, of a general uniformity, except one row on
each side somewhat larger, pyramidal, acute, slightly raised and
directed horizontally outward and backward (fig. 3). <A series
of very large, inframaxillary plates, sharp on their outer edge, the
posterior one of which is transformed into a spine. The plates
lining the margin of the jaws are not prominent. The scales of
the belly are prop6rtionally small, subquadrangular, posteriorly
very acute and keeled. Femoral pores undeveloped or else rudi-
mentary (fig. 6). Inferior surface of the body, unicolor.
III. PHRYNOSOMA CORONATUM, Blainv.—(Pl. VIII, fig. 7-12).—
Profile declive; snout protruding; nostrils situated at the extre-
mity of the superciliary ridge (fig. 7). Occipital and temporal
spines perhaps less acute, but stouter than in Phr. cornutum (fig.
8). A double row of pyramido-horizontal and abdomino-periphe-
ral scales. On the lower surface of the head (fig. 9), there exist
two double series (four rows) of quite large pyramidal, posteriorly
acute, slightly raised scales, inside of which, two double series of
much smaller scales are observed, the two innermost rows the
smallest. The remaining portion of the lower surface of the head
is covered with minute polymorphal scales. The plates of the
inframaxillary row are strong, flattened horizontally, and very
acute posteriorly: they are very much approximated to the margin
itself of the jaw. The scales of the belly are of medium size,
smooth, sometimes subtriangular, pointed posteriorly, while others
are subquadrangular. Femoral pores very conspicuous, the series
of either side coming nearly into contact on the middle line of the
belly, forming there a curve, the convexity of which is turned for-
ward. Lower surface of body maculated as in Phr. orbiculare. ©
Ackerman Lith 375 Broadway NY
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' APPENDIX C.—REPTILES. 361
IV. Purynosoma poverassil, Gray.—(Pl. VII, fig. 6-10.)—
Profile subtruncated (fig. 7). Nostril openings situated at the
extremity of the superciliary ridge (fig. 9). Occipital and temporal
spines reduced to blunt knobs (fig. 6 and 7). One row only of
pyramido-horizontal and abdomino-peripheral scales. Lower sur-
face of head (fig. 8) covered with small and uniform scales. Mar-
ginal series of scales of the lower jaw large and conspicuous, flat-
tened, with a sharp horizontal edge. An inframaxillary row
likewise conspicuous in their size (fig. 7, 8, and 9). Scales of
the belly smooth, acute posteriorly. Femoral pores very conspi-
cuous (fig. 10). The series, from either side, are separated on the
middle region of the belly by a free space. The lower surface of
body appears as if unicolor, but, when examined carefully, nume-
rous and crowded dots are seen.
V. PuRYNOSOMA PLATYRHINOS, Girard.—(Pl. VII, fig. 1-5.)
—Snout truncated, flattened, concave (fig. 2). Nostrils situated
within the internal margin of the superciliary ridge (fig. 4). Oc-
cipital and temporal spines of middle size (fig. 1 and 2). One
row of pyramido-horizontal and abdomino-peripheral scales, much
smaller than in the preceding species (compare fig. 1 to 6, on pl.
VII). Lower surface of head covered with small, nearly uniform
scales; on both sides, and near the neck, a series appears a little
more conspicuous, slightly raised and acute. Inframarginal series
of plates, large, of stout appearance, sharp and acute (fig. 3)y
above which two rows of small plates are seen lining the margin
of the lower jaw (fig. 4). Scales of the belly smooth and of mid-
dle size. Femoral pores very conspicuous, but more apart than in
the preceding species (fig. 5). A free space is left on the mid-
dle region between the right and left series. The lower surface
of the body is unicolor.
VI. Purynosoma MopEstum, Girard. (Pl. VI, fig. 4-8.)—Snout
truncated, flattened, but not concave (fig. 6). Nostrils opening within
the internal margin of the superciliary ridge (fig. 7). Occipital
and temporal spines of middle development (fig. 4 and 6). No
pyramido-horizontal scales at the periphery of the abdomen.
Lower surface of head with minute, generally uniform scales; a
row lining the inframaxillary plates, distinguishing itself by its
serial arrangement and its slightly increased size (fig. 5). Row
of inframarginal plates resembling that of Phr. platyrhinos,
(fig. 5); above which only one series of smaller plates is observed,
lining the margin of the lower jaw (fig. 6 and 7). Scales of the
362 APPENDIX (C.—REPTILES.
belly proportionally larger than in any other species, smooth,
quadrangular, and trapezoidal. Femoral pores conspicuous; the
series from right and left coming into contact on the middle line
of the belly, and forming a curve, the convexity of which is turned
backward toward the vent. The lower surface of the body is uni-
color.
PHRYNOSOMA DOUGLASSII, Gray.
Pu. VII. Fia. 6-9.
Syn. Purynosoma povetassit, Gray, Synops. Rept. in Griff. Anim. Kingd. IX.
1831, 44.—Waat. Nat. Syst. Amph. 1830, 146.—Wisem. Herp. Mex. 1834,
54.—Hoxsr. N. Amer. Herp. I. 1842, 101, Pl. XIV.—Gnray, Cat. Brit. Mus.
1845, 227.
Agama douglassii, Brut, Trans. Linn. Soc. L. XVI. (1828), 1838, 105, Pl. X.—
Haru. Med. and Phys. Research. 1835, 141, fig. 3.
The specimen figured is not the largest of the species, but Piss
the only one secured at Salt Lake, we took it in preference to any
of those which we have from Galeria and Oregon. It is about
three inches and a-half long; the head is a little less than a fifth
of the entire length. The body, from the neck to the origin of
the hind legs, is about of the same length as the remaining pos-
terior portion. The body is suborbicular, being nearly as broad
as long. These dimensions may vary to some degree among
different individuals, but, generally speaking, they give to the
Species its specific character as far as the form and outlines of
the body are concerned. Viewed from above (fig. 6), the body is
subtriangular, as broad behind as long; acuminated, but rounded
in front. The vertex is cordiform, a little depressed in the middle,
forming over the eyes a prominent carina, composed of four or
five elongated plates, and posteriorly terminated by a blunt spine
or acute knob. The occipital region, immediately behind, is de-
pressed, and provided with three acute knobs, the central one in-
conspicuous. The temporal region is bordered posteriorly by
three or four spines or subpyramidal plates. The auditory aper-
ture is vertically oblong or semilunated. The nostrils are pro-
portionally very large, and situated at the anterior prolongation
of the superciliary ridge. The polygonal plates are very minute
on the nasal region and all along the upper jaw; the marginal
row, however, being a little more conspicuous. The profile (fig. 7)
exhibits the characters just alluded to, and gives a perfect picture
of the physiognomy of this species. The eyes are oval. The same
figure 7 exhibits the double row of large scales of the lower jaw.
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APPENDIX C.—REPTILES. 363
Both of these rows meet in front of the symphysis of the jaw and
behind the angle of the mouth, but leave between them a narrow
area covered with very small scales. The inferior surface of the
head (fig. 8) is very uniform; the scales which cover this region
are small, some subovate, others subquadrangular. The pyramidal
scales of the back constitute several irregular rows. One distinct
and crowded row borders the outline of the abdomen. ‘The scales
on the belly are smooth, subquadrangular or lozenge-shaped, a
little larger on the middle than toward the sides. The femoral
pores are quite conspicuous (fig. 10), from fifteen to seventeen on
each side.
The general hue of the specimen before us, preserved in alcohol,
is olivaceous-green above, lighter below. Behind the occiput, an
each side of the neck, there is an elongated patch of black, behind
which a very small patch is seen, and, farther backward three or
four others in pairs, triangular or quadrangular, the last of which is
placed above and in advance of the hind legs. Four or five pairs of
spots, diminishing gradually in size, may be followed along the tail.
The dorsal patches are bordered with a line of light yellow. The
abdomen appears unicolor, but, on careful examination, numerous
brownish dots can be observed. The upper portion of the legs has
a few small blackish spots.
The specimen figured is from the valley of the Great Salt Lake,
where it was collected by Captain Stansbury.
PHRYNOSOMA PLATYRHINOS, Girard.
Pu. VII. Fie. 1-5.
The general form of this species is more elongated than usual,
the neck not so much contracted, and the head, consequently, more
detached from the rest of the body. The shape of the head is as
much a characteristic of this species as its structure. We allude
to its circular form when viewed from above (fig. 1), and to the
flattening of the nose, as exhibited in the profile (fig. 2). The
upper surface exhibits two strong occipital spines, and a row of
smaller ones on the temporal region, five on each side. The poly-
gonal plates of the cordiform and flat vertex assume a symmetrical]
arrangement on both sides, so as to divide the space into two
ovoidal areas, the outer row of which is composed of larger plates,
while those enclosed are smaller and more irregular. Thus, the
j
364 APPENDIX C.—REPTILES.
two posterior angles of the vertex, instead of being acute, as in
Phr. douglassi, are rounded, without any prominent knob or spine.
Along the superciliary ridge which overlaps the eyes, the plates
are the largest, at least, five of them, there being two very small
ones nearly above the middle of the eye. The occipital area
exhibits three subcircular plates in its centre, larger than the sur-
rounding ones. A group of large subspinous plates is likewise
observed at the base and in advance of the occipital spines. The
plates on the snout and along the upper jaw are small and incon-
spicuous, except the marginal row, on account of an acute pro-
jection of each of them. ‘The nose is flattened to excess, slightly
concave, and the nostrils are situated at the inside of the super-
ciliary ridge; thus placed in front (fig. 4). The eyes are cir-
cular. The lower jaw wants the first row of large plates which
we have seen in PAr. douglassii, but the one which exists is so
much more developed than in the latter, and composed of six very
conspicuous plates on each side and two small ones (fig. 2 and 3).
Between this row of plates and the margin of the jaw there is an
area, covered, on its anterior portion, with two, and, near the
angle of the mouth, with three rows of small and polygonal scales.
- On the lower surface of the head, from the chin to the throat, the
scales are small and irregular; on the sides, however, and only
for the posterior half of that distance, a row of from five to seven
acute-edged scales may be seen. The folds of the neck do not
exhibit any thing peculiar under the throat, but, on the sides and
behind the ear, they are surmounted with pyramidal and raised
scales. The auditory aperture is comparatively small—much
smaller than in Phr. douglassit. The pyramidal and raised scales
of the back are but little prominent. There is but one abdominal
series of the latter, as in Ph. douglassit, originating behind the
fore legs, but not extending so far backward as in others. The
plates in the post-anal groove form two rows, the first composed
~ of six, the second and posterior one of four only. The femoral
pores are but few, from six to seven on each side, and quite dis-
tant from each other.
The head and tail are brown above, the upper part of the body
ash-coloured ; yellowish and unicolor below. On the sides of the
neck is a large patch of black, and two similar ones, but narrow
and undulating, on the back. Faint indications of transverse
bands of black are observed on the tail.
Collected by Captain Stansbury about the Great Salt Lake.
a
a
APPENDIX C.—REPTILES. 365
PHRYNOSOMA MODESTUM, Girard.
Pi. VI. Fic. 4-8.
The most striking characters by which this species can be dis-
tinguished from its congeners consists in the want of the periphe-
ral abdominal row of pyramidal scales, and also in the slight de-
velopment of the scales on the upper region of the body, which
loses considerably that rough appearance so characteristic in the
other species. The tail affords another character peculiar to Phr.
modestum ; it tapers more suddenly, and is perfectly cylindrical be-
yond the dilated portion of its base. The head has the same
general appearance as in Phr. platyrhinos, although it is not so
much truncated, and still less so in the adult than in the young
(fig. 6). The vertex is more circular than in the latter, but the
occipital and temporal spines do not differ much in the two species.
The nostrils have the same position within the superciliary ridge,
(fig. 7). The lower jaw exhibits one row of large plates, with one
single series of very small ones above, forming the edge of the
jaw, while we have seen two rows of the latter in Phr. platyrhinos.
Below the head the scales are exceedingly small—much smaller
than in Phr. platyrhinos. 'They are uniform among themselves,
except a row of a little more conspicuous ones forming one series
along the inside of the maxillary plates (fig. 5). The scales on
the belly are smooth, subquadrangular, and larger than in any
other species. The femoral pores are smaller, and even more
apart than in Phr. platyrhinos, but there is no separation on the
middle line of the belly, and the series from both sides meet in
advance of the vent, forming a convex curve turned backward
(fig. 8).
The coloration is uniform yellowish-brown above, with two
lateral patches of black on the sides of the neck. ‘Transversal
and narrow bands of black are seen on the tail. The black spot
seen on the left side of fig. 4 is accidental; that is, if exists on
the specimen figured, but is not found on any others which have
since come to hand.
Brought from the Rio Grande, west of San Antonio, by General
Churchill. A series of adult specimens were collected from San
Antonio to El Paso, by the party under Colonel J. D. Graham,
late of the United States and Mexican boundary survey.
366 . APPENDIX C.—INSECTS.
INSECTS.
—
By PROF. S. 8S. HALDEMAN.
THERE were but few facilities for collecting, preserving, and
transporting insects upon the journey, and those which were
brought home are few in number and in bad condition. Under
these circumstances, Captain Stansbury has allowed other species
to be introduced, which have been collected by Lieutenant Horace
Haldeman, U.S. A., chiefly at Fredericksburg and Fort Gates, on
the western frontier of Texas; and by Mr. Richard Kern, in a
journey across the plains to Santa Fé. In the latter case, the
specimens were thrown into bottles of spirits as collected, so that
there is nothing to distinguish those which were found upon the
route from those of Santa Fé; but as the greater part probably
appertain to the latter locality, this has been used to Mr. Kern’s
species.
LEPIDOPTERA.
PAPILIO ASTERIAS, Cramer.
A specimen with the patagia yellow, and forming a continuous
lateral yellow line with the spots upon the thorax and head. ©
CYNTHIA CARDUI, Linnzus.
A specimen of this species, which is common in Europe and the
United States, and one of the most widely spread species known,
occurring in India and Africa. On this continent it has been found
among the Rocky Mountains and in California.
PIERIS PROTODICE.
DEILEPHILA LINEATA, Fabr.
(—daucus, Cramer). Harris, Am. Journal Sci., vol. 36.
Picea
As a
. APPENDIX (.—INSECTS. 367
HYMENOPTERA.
Among the most interesting entomological discoveries in the
imperfectly explored parts of the United States territory, that of
the three new species of the genus Labidus must be included. This
is a tropical form, and almost exclusively confined to Brazil, the
most northern species hitherto described being from the West In-
dian Island of Saint Vincent. The three species were discovered
at Fort Gates by Lieutenant Haldeman.
LaBipus sad, Hald.
Pu. IX. Fria. 1-3.
Luteous, head brown above, and having (with the mandibles and
basal articulation of the antennz) piliferous punctures; stemmata
large, and the posterior ones twice as far from each other as from
the eyes; face excavated below the antenne, with the lateral cari-
nz sharp or angular, and the medial line impressed; mandibles
large, tapering slowly, and curved from the base. Thorax convex
and shining, with numerous piliferous punctures; dorsal line nar-
row and distinctly impressed from the most prominent part to the
anterior margin. Peduncle triangular, excised posteriorly with
well-developed exterior angles. Abdomen indistinctly pubescent,
with piliferous punctures posteriorly. Feet slender, simple, and
uniformly coloured; base of the anterior tarsi excavated beneath for
the tibial spur; ungues bifid; posterior feet extending beyond the
abdomen; tibial spurs small. Wings with the stigmata long and
narrow, posterior half indistinctly sanguineous, the nervures of
the colour of the body, the membrane a pale tint of the same
colour, and translucent. Length eight and a-half, wing seven and
a-half, posterior tarsus two and a-half lines.
LABIDUS HARRISII, Hald.
Pu. IX. Fia. 4-6.
Polished and pubescent, above black, abdomen rufous. Head
black, pubescent; stemmata large, posterior ones three times
farther from each other than from the eyes; antennz pale fulvous,
base pilose; mouth rufous; mandibles pilose, robust, curved at the
base only, the inner edge rectilinear, and the apex acute but not
368 APPENDIX (C.—INSECTS. »
incurved. Thorax convex in front, with piliferous punctures,
brown, and pilose; wings very pale dusky, translucent, nervures
pale yellowish-brown. eet slender and short, anterior tarsi
medial line narrow and impressed; sides and feet dark reddish,
curved at the base, the outer side being parallel with the internal
excavation ; anterior tibial spine curved, and rather robust, poste-
rior feet-not reaching the end of the abdomen. Peduncle of the
abdomen black above, pubescent, transversely quadrangular, the
anterior angles rounded. Abdomen compressed, thinly clothed
with fulvous hair. Length five, expanse nine and a-half, posterior
tarsus one line.
LABIDUS MELSHAEMERI, Hald.
Pu. IX. Fia. 7-9.
Pale polished amber-coloured and pilose; head nearly quadrate,
with the vertex black; the two posterior stemmata are distant,
being nearly in contact with the eyes; mandibles pilose, sickle-
shaped, curved from the base and diminishing rapidly to a slender
incurved point. Wings very pale dusky, with the nervures pale
brown; a black point upon the thorax at their insertion. Base of
the anterior tarsi slightly curved; anterior tibial spine small and
slightly curved; posterior feet not extending beyond the abdomen.
Abdominal peduncle pilose, transverse, basal angles strongly
rounded, apex concave; abdomen compressed. Length about
three and a-half, wing three lines.
AMMOPHILA ABERTI, Hald. |
A large black and rufous species, the head and anterior wings
of which are wanting in the only specimen collected. Thorax
black cinereous primrose; patagia and feet (except the coxe and
trochanters) rufous ; basal half of the posterior femora black, which
extends in a line toward the apex upon the upper side; posterior
tibial with the inner side darker than the outer side; posterior
wings hyaline, nervures rufous. Abdomen rufous, peduncle and a
blotch upon the apex above, black. Length fourteen, abdomen
nine, to the constriction four lines. General form of Ammophila
sabulosa. Named after Colonel Abert, chief of the Topographical
Bureau, for his efforts toward the development of the natural
history of the country, under various exploring expeditions.
o
iii
APPENDIX (C.—INSECTS. 369
HEMIPTERA.
CrcaDA RE¢, Hald.
Pu. IX. Fie. 17.
Yellow, varied with black, sericeous beneath. Head yellow,
pypostoma brown; the medial line yellow, and unimpressed, and
the transverse ridges undulate; eyes connected by a broad trans-
verse band. Pronotum yellow, with a narrow Y-shaped line
divided to the base, a narrow transverse lateral spot on each
side posteriorly, and another anteriorly, immediately behind the
lateral stemmata. Mesonotum black, with a large lateral elon-
gated yellow spot, and a pair of similarly coloured medial spots
in the shape of the Hebrew letter resh inverted, and the points
' converging anteriorly upon the medial line; tergum dark brown.
Wings with the nervures yellow to beyond the middle, when they
become dark brown or blackish. The usual W-shaped mark is
present; beneath and feet yellow; metasternal spines rather large;
spines of the feet and apex of the tibial tinged with brown. Length
of the body fourteen, to the end of the upper wings twenty-two
se “ a4 ate
pt Pa eS
lines; width of the prothorax seven lines. <A large and handsome
species, from the Great Salt Lake Valley.
CICADA STRIATIPES, Hald.
Pu. IX. Fie. 16.
Above black, varied with a little yellow; beneath yellow, more
or less primrose, particularly beneath. Head black, with a small
yellow spot above the antenne; hypostoma prominent, with the
medial line yellow, and strongly impressed. Pronotum black,
margined with yellow posteriorly, primose, and indistinctly lateral.
Mesonotum black, with four small yellow spots, two connected
with the scutel, and two central, one on each side of the medial
line; lateral margins and scutel yellow, two raised yellow lines
extending laterally from the latter. Tergum black, with the apex
and margins of the segments yellow. LHlytra and wings with the
nervures yellowish-white ; those of the exterior cells blackish; the
basal portion, whichis doubled beneath in repose, is orange. That
of the posterior alulet extending half its length and ending in a
narrow fuscous band; base of the superior wings with a black
24
3870 APPENDIX C.—INSECTS. |
point above. W spot near the apex wanting. Beneath, yellow;
end of the haustellum a few points near the joints of the feet, and
a transverse line at the base of the abdomen, black. Medial and
posterior femora with an impressed stria along the inferior surface.
Entire length thirteen, of the body nine and a-half, expanse of the
wings twenty-three lines. This small species seems to be allied
to C. rimosa of Say. It belongs to the section of C. septemdecim,
in which the drums are exposed so as to render their action visible
in the living insect. | :
ZAITHA RETICULATA, Hald.
Dark brown, haustellum stout, and curved, scutel longitudinally
rugose, elytra with distinct raised reticulations; wings white,
abdomen black, apex beneath paler, pectus varied with yellowish,
and the external margin of the posterior femora of the same colour.
Length eight and a-half, breadth four and a-half lines. This
species is allied to Z. testacea and Z. aurantiaca of Leidy, (who
described them under the generic name of Perthostoma,) in the
Journal of Acad. Nat. Sci. of Philadelphia, 1847, p. 60; but the
colour is deeper, and it is at once distinguished by the raised reticu-
lations upon the elytra.
ZAITHA BIFOVEATA, Hald.
Pu. X. Fia. 1.
Brownish-yellow, scutel and beneath darker; head much ad-
vanced in front, haustellum very long, and curved nearly in a
quadrant; antenne hairy, the three terminal articulations parallel,
curved, and of equal length, the apical one thickest, but scarcely
differing in shape. Pronotum punctate, the anterior two-thirds
finely, and the posterior third more coarsely and confluently; a
fovea without punctures upon each side, about a line from the
anterior or lateral margins; scutel punctate, with the disk lon-
gitudinally rugose. Feet maculate with brown; margin of the
venter maculate with flavous. Length sixteen, breadth seven,
head nearly three, haustellum three and a-half lines. Fort Gates,
Texas. This is the largest species of the genus, but it has the
characters of the antenne and rostrum, the long anterior coxe,
slender feet, and terminal nervures of the elytra without anasto-
moses, which distinguish this genus from Belostoma.
In Belostoma, the wing when folded has four nervures (omitting
that of the fold) which reach the margin; in Zaitha there are but
4
Mo(aus SURG SictloneAiy tocrddnidy ¢ —-sadtjei02 EpSadipeO 2 —eP]esAdsIQ PUIeE? |
G vs i
Aw peta bo Yu] LEW sy
APPENDIX C.—INSEOTS. 871
two, the intermediate ones being evanescent. ‘In the former, the
first and second (from the fold) unite at the margin, but in the
latter, the evanescent line representing the second reaches the
margin parallel to the first nervure.
ORTHOPTERA.
EPHIPPIGERA TfIVAVENSIS, Hald.
Pu. X. Fre. 8.
Robust, dull brown, beneath yellowish; head rough, antenne
deep set, filiform, shorter than the pronotum, inserted opposite the
lower canthus of the eyes, upon each side of a double vertical
frontal carina; labrum transverse, and with the palpi flavous.
Pronotum ample, coarsely scabrous, blackish, changing to yellowish
posteriorly; elytra and wings rudimentary, the former gray,
mottled with black. Inside of the posterior femora and tibie
black, the former interrupted near the apex. The posterior tibiz
have a row of spines upon each above. Length fifteen, antennz
Six, pronotum seven, width four and a-half, elytra four, posterior
femora seven, and tibiz seven lines: Chihuahua.
CEDIPODA CORALLIPES, Hald.
Pu. X. Fie. 2.
Yellowish-gray, conspicuously varied with brown, mostly in
blotches, and upon the elytra and exterior side of the posterior
femora. Vertex and pronotum scabrous and dark brown, the
latter margined with flavous, its surface nearly flat, and the medial
line but little raised. Angle of the elytra marked with a yellow
line; a narrow line upon the internal margin. Wings bright yellow,
margined with black. Inside of the posterior femora, tibize and
tarsi, bright vermilion, a paler tint extending to the outside of
the tarsi and lower half of the tibiz. Length twenty-four lines,
(two and a-half inches,) pronotum five, posterior femora ten, and
tibize nine lines.
This fine large grasshopper is probably the species which has
been destructive to vegetation in the Valley of the Great Salt
Lake. It is nearly as large as the destructive dipoda migra-
torta, (with which it is congeneric.) The last-named species is
known under the English name of migratory locust.
372 APPENDIX C.—INSECTS.
ANABRUS, Hald.
This new generic name is derived from the Greek abros, with
the negative prefix an, in allusion to the unprepossessing appear-'
ance of the insect. This genus has broad articulate tarsi, the
soles concave, and the third articulation cordate. Itresembles Pha-
langopsis in general appearance, the form of the head and labrum,
the high position of the antenne, the narrow sternum, and the po-
sition and probably the form of the feet. It has, however, a dis-
tinct selliform pronotum extending over the basal articulation of
the abdomen, and concealing rudimentary elytra. Excepting the
tarsi, the posterior feet resemble those of a Phalangopsis and have
the spines distributed in the same manner. ‘The ovipositor is
nearly straight, sword-shaped, unlike that of Phalangopsis, and
it is two-thirds the length of the body. A single specimen was
brought from the Valley of the Great Salt Lake, and of this the
antenne, palpi, and anterior and medial feet are wanting.
ANABRUS SIMPLEX, Hald.
Pu. X. Fia. 4.
Dark shining brown, posterior femora with an external and
internal row of small spines beneath upon the posterior extremity ;
tibiz angular, with a row of spines upon each side above, and two
approximate rows beneath with the spines alternating. Length
fifteen lines, pronotum six, ovipositor twelve, posterior femora and
tibiz, each eleven, and tarsi three and a-half. This seems to be
one of the species which is eaten by the aborigines of the Valley
of the Great Salt Lake.
STENOPELMATUS Fuscus, Hald.
Shining dark brown, abdomen darker. One specimen, seven
lines long, is from Santa Fé; another is eight lines long, and from
Chihuahua: the latter has the labrum and tibize darker than the
general colour.
It is possible that these small specimens may be immature, and
they would not have been characterized but for the fact that in
the allied genera the colour remains remarkably uniform during
the various transformations, which renders it probable that they
are not the larve of the rufo-testaceous Mexican S. talpa, which
my brother has brought from Jalapa. ‘The tibial springs of S.
Fuscus are well developed, a character by which the adult of
pita ag
8
=
APPENDIX C.—INSECTS. 373
Phalangopsis can be distinguished from the pupz of the same size
and general appearance.
PHALANGOPSIS.
There is a larva of this genus in the collection from the Valley
of the Great Salt Lake, which bears a close resemblance to P.
lapidicola.
COLEOPTERA.
CICINDELA AUDUBONII, Le Conte.
_ Ann. Lyceum, N. Y.. Valley of the Great Salt Lake and
Sante Fé.
PANAGAUS DISTINCTUS, Hald.
Rufous, sparsely hirsute, elytra with a fascia behind the middle,
interrupted at the suture, apex blackish. Head scabrous and
rather large, prothorax coarsely punctured, wider anteriorly than
posteriorly, sides regularly rounded, posterior angles small and
acute; dorsal line and region of the posterior angles impressed;
elytra striate, with large impressed punctures. Length, three and
a-half lines. Colour and general appearance of P. fasciatus, but
smaller, with a larger head, the prothorax very different in shape,
and the elytra more strongly marked. Sante Fé.
CARABUS FINITIMUS, Hald.
Allied to @. sylvosus, but somewhat wider. Blank slightly
bluish on the margin. Prothora, less narrowed behind than in
sylvosus, with the reflex margin and that of the elytra wider.
_ Elytra more convex, very shining, finely punctured in lines, with
three rows on each of distant impressed foves. Destitute of the
scabrous appearance of C. sylvosus. Fort Gates.
PANGUS CALIGINOSUS.
DICHLUS SPLENDIDUS.
CALOSOMA SCRUTATOR. ©
PLOCHIONUS TIMIDUS.
Occurring at Fort Gates.
374 APPENDIX C.—INSECTS.
STETHOXUS TRIANGULARIS, Say.
At Tampico.
MELOPS CONSTRICTUS.
CHLANIUS SERICEUS.
c VICINUS.
AGONUM ERYTHROPUM.
P&CILUS SCITULUS.
Were collected by Mr. Kern.
TROCHALUS EXPLANATUS, Le Conte.
Or a closely allied species, was brought by Captain Stansbury.
COTALPA GRANICOLLIS, Hald.
Pu. IX. Fig. 11.
Hirsute, dark green, elytra reddish castaneous, feet black.
Head, pronotum, scutel, and pygidium, green, and densely and
confluently punctured. Elytra each with four indistinct impressed
striz; surface irregular punctured, punctures confluent toward
the sutures. Under parts, including the femora, green, and
densely punctate; tibie and tarsi, black. Length, eight lines.
The body, above and below, with the elytra and feet, are irregu-
larly hirsute, with whitish hairs. Valley of the Great Salt Lake.
EUPHORIA CERNII, Hald.
Pu. IX. Fie. 10.
Dark brown elytra, varied with pale flavous. Head and pro-
notum densely and coarsely punctured; antenne, palpi, and feet
reddish-brown. Pronotum margined laterally and posteriorly
with a narrow band of flayous; scutel black, with elongated shal-
low punctures, mostly toward the margin. LElytra each with a
wide sutural and medial groove, irxegularly maculated with dark
brown and flavous in nearly equal proportions, the lateral and
terminal with three sub-sutural spots; surface slightly punctate
with longitudinal striz near the suture,.and fine transverse rugo-
sities laterally. Pygidium faintly rugulose, pectus blackish.
Length, five lines. Collected by Mr. Kern, after whom it is
named. 3 |
' APPENDIX C.—INSECTS. 375
MELOLONTHA DECEMLINEATA, Say.
Valley of the Great Salt Lake.
PELIDNOTA TRIPUNCTATA.
Fort Gates.
AREODA LANIGERA.
Santa Fé.
APHODIUS STRIGATUS, Say, which is common in the United
States, occurs in Western Texas and as far south as Jalapa, in
Mexico.
Hyprocuus FovEATUS, Hald.
Silvery-gray, varied with curious reflexions. Head coarsely and
densely punctate; the largest punctures between the eyes; palpi
flavous, prothorax nearly quadrangular, widest before, produced
posteriorly into an obtuse angle; surface punctate with three
foveze across the middle, the central forming a triangle with two
others in contact with it posteriorly. Elytra each with ten rows
of deep dilated punctures. Feet flavous, varied with brown;
length less than two lines. Fort Gates, Texas. Allied to H.
scabratus of Mulsant, 1844. Ann. Sci. Phys. Nat. Lyon, vol. vii.
p. 873. H. gibbosus, Melsheimer.
STAPHYLINUS VILLOSUS, Cray.
Mr. Kern brought a specimen of the species, which is common
in the United States, and is found in Mexico and Cuba.
PHILONTHUS comptus, Hald.
Allied to P. eneus and P. harrisit. Polished black. Head
rather narrower than the prothorax, with foveze in a transverse
line, the external one orbital and placed before the middle of the
eye; the next midway between this and the medial one, which is
more shallow than the others, and in advance of them. There
are three additional orbital fovese posterior to the first, and several
upon the posterior angles, which are strongly and sparsely punc-
tate. Mandibles strong and incurved, with a stout tooth near the
base, external margin with a groove for about half its length.
Pronotum with four distant punctures arranged longitudinally
3876 APPENDIX C.—INSECTS.
upon each side of the middle, a second line of three exterior to
these, (two placed opposite the interstices of the posterior three,
and the third at the posterior margin,) a third row of three or
four exterior to the latter, followed by a single puncture in the
lateral angle: there are also several marginal punctures poste-
riorly. Scutel flat, oblong, triangular, with piliferous punctures.
Elytra longer than the prothorax, widest posteriorly, and rather
wider than long; black with piliferous punctures, lateral margin
yellowish brown, hair yellowish upon the disk, and fulvous upon
the lateral margin. Wings fuliginous irised. Tergum, under parts
and feet with piliferous punctures. Length, six lines. A single
specimen collected by Mr. Kern, of which the antenne are broken.
NEcROPHORUS OBSCURUS, Kirby.
Fauna Bor. Amer. p. 97.—Valley of Great Salt Lake.
ELEODES cogNATA, Hald.
Colour, size, and markings as in H. extricata, but the punctur-
ing is much finer, and that of the pronotum more sparse. The
elytra have distant, minute elevated points, (some of them con-
nected with the punctures,) which are more evident posteriorly.
Valley of the Great Salt Lake.
ELEODES OBSCURA, Say.
Two specimens in Captain Stansbury’s collection.
NyctToBATES (IPHTHINUS) INTERMEDIA, Hald.
Allied to WV. barbata, Knoch (Tenebrio) Neue Beytraege, p. 166,
fig. (striato-punctatus, Dejean, Catalogue, p. 225) and similarly
barbate with fulvous hair. Punctures of the head larger and
more crowded (especially upon the vertex.) Pronotum with the
sides more rounded and the surface more coarsely punctured.
Surface of the elytra minutely but more distinctly punctured, and
the nine lines of punctures less distinct than in WV. barbata.
This species agrees in size and colour with JV. barbata, and in
distinctness of the lines of punctures upon the elytra it stands
between that species and WV. pennsylvanica, Western Texas.
ZOPHERUS VARIOLOSUS, Sturm.
Described from Mexican specimens ; is found at Fort Gates. -
APPENDIX C.—INSEOTS. 877
Horia STANSBURII, Hald.
Black, elytra sanguineous. Head pilose, and with the pro-
thorax scabrous with confluent punctures. Pectus shining, and,
with the feet, punctate. Abdomen of the female with a small fovéa
upon the middle of the three terminal segments. Hlytra scabrous,
with large irregular confluent punctures. Length of the male four,
of the female six lines. Valley of the Great Salt Lake.
MELOE PARvus, Hald.
Black, somewhat shining, head with numerous dilated punctures
extending to the labrum, eyes uniform, a smooth fovea near them,
and a smooth pustule between the fovea and the insertion of the
antenne. Antenne eleven-articulate, filiform, extending a little
beyond the prothorax, and apparently alike in both sexes; the
second articulation is the smallest, and the third equal to the two
following; beyond the third the length gradually increases to the
apex. Prothorax subquadrate, but the anterior angles are rounded
and the middle advanced so as to form a neck; posterior angles
raised in an obtuse pustule; dorsal line interrupted, impressed
before the middle, and forming a rima posteriorly. Scutel punc-
tate with the disk impressed. LElytra scabrous and acute. Ab-
domen above and below with minute piliferous punctures. Feet
slender. Length from four to five lines. Kern’s collection.
Henovs, Hald.
Form of Hpicanta, with the elytra abbreviated, connate, and each
obtusely rounded. Prothorax subglobular, lengthened anteriorly.
Abdomen, with the middle part above, coriaceous, and the lateral
parts membranous; that of the female inflated. Antenne setace-
ous, third articulation longest; from the third to the sixth slightly
dilated and compressed in the male. Ungues cleft, with the parts
equal.
HENOUS TECHANUS, Hald.
Pu. IX. Fie. 12-14.
Black, short, pubescent, minutely granulate. Head, thorax, and
elytra scabrous, with confluent punctures; labrum and clipeus
with dilated impressed punctures, more crowded upon the labrum
378 APPENDIX C.—INSEOCTS.
and sides of the clipeus. Length of the female ten, breadth three
and a-half, length of the elytra nearly five lines.
ELAPHIDION MARILANDICUM.
CLYTUS IRRORATUS.
7 FLEXUOSUS.
CERASPHORUS GARGANICUS.
Fort Gates, Texas.
MEGADERUS CORALLIPES, Newm.
Pu. IX. Fig. 15.
Was described from an imperfect Mexican specimen by Newman,
(Charlesworth, Mag. Nat. Hist., vol. iv., p. 195.) It is now figured
for the first time, from a specimen taken at Fort Gates.
APPENDIX C.—INSECTS. 379
LETTER FROM T. R. PEALE, ESQ., UPON THE LARVA OF INSECTS
FOUND IN THE GREAT SALT LAKE.
Wasuineton, May 12th, 1852.
My Dear Si1r:—The exuvie of insects which you have brought
from the shores of the Great Salt Lake proves, on examination, to
have been deposited by aquatic diptera.
In the mass, I can detect fragments of the larve shells of the
pupa, and small portions of a mature Chironomus and other
Tipulide. More than nine-tenths of the mass is composed of
larvee and exuviz of Chironomus, or some species of mosquito—
probably undescribed; the fragments being too imperfect to deter-
mine.
You are best able to determine, first, whether mosquitoes exist
at any time at the Great Salt Lake in such unparalleled numbers
as this organic matter indicates; or, secondly, whether the salt of
the lake water has preserved their exuvise, so that it has accumu-
lated through a great length of time.
A few fragments of insects I have been able to determine as
belonging to the Linnean genus Nepa, which is aquatic, 7 a
very few others as Hymenopterous, &e.
In the hope of soon seeing your Report o: on the most interesting
portion of our continent,
I remain
Yours truly,
T. R. Peas.
Captain H. STANSBURY,
Corps Topographical Engineers,
Washington.
I am not aware that mosquitoes exist in such unusual abundance
in the vicinity of the lake; but incline to the opinion of Mr. Peale,
that the accumulation of the immense masses of these exuviz is to
be attributed to the preservative qualities of the lake water.
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APPENDIX D.
BOTANY.
* CATALOGUE OF PLANTS COLLECTED BY THE EXPEDITION.
BY PROFESSOR JOHN TORREY.
P
7
-_
APPENDIX D.
BOTANY.
BY JOHN TORREY.
CLEMATIS LIGUSTICHFOLIA, Nutt.—East base of the Black Hills.
In fruit, September 29th. ‘Tails of the carpels more than an inch
long, and very slender.
ANEMONE PENNSYLVANICA, Lin.—Great Salt Lake Valley.
DELPHINIUM AZUREUM, Mich.—With the preceding. Fl. May
2d—19th.
BERBERIS (MAHONIA) AQUIFOLIUM, Pursh.—With the preced-
ing; on the sides of the mountains. Fl. May 19th.
ARGEMONE HISPIDA, Gray, Plant. Fendl., No. 16.—With the
preceding. Called the «Thistly plant’? by the inhabitants. In
fruit May 19th. —
VIOLA PEDUNCULATA, Torr. and Gray.—Borders of the Salt
Lake.
CorYDALIS AURBA, Willd.—Stansbury’s Island, Great Salt Lake.
Fl. June 26th.
ERYSIMUM ASPERUM, D. C.—Shore of the Salt Lake and along
Weber’s River. May—June.
STREPTANTHUS CRASSICAULIS, Torr. (Sp. nov.)—Glaucus; cdule
glabro inflato fistuloso; foliis oblongis runcinato-pinnatifidis vel run-
cinatis longe petiolatis; floribus erecto-patulis; petalis (purpureis)
linearibus obtusiusculis calyce villoso-lanato duplo longioribus.
Mountain side, on the east shore of the Salt Lake. Fl. May 80.
Found also on the tributaries of the Uintah River, Utah Territory,
by Colonel Fremont. Annual. This species is easily distinguished
by its inflated hollow stem and very woolly calyx. The leaves are
383
384 - APPENDIX D.—BOTANY.
mostly radical and deeply pinnatified; the terminal lobe much
larger than the others, and triangular or deltoid. The stem is
simple, from one to two feet high, more or less inflated toward the
base, and nearly naked above. ‘The flowers are nearly sessile, in
a long terminal raceme, erect when first expanded, but finally
becoming patulous. Calyx about half an inch long, the sepals
oblong-lanceolate and woolly externally. The petals are dark pur-
ple, with a pale waved margin. Filaments all free. The siliques
are not known.
Plate I. Streptanthus crassicaulis, of the natural size. Fig. 1,
a sepal, showing the inner face and part of the hairiness on the
back. Fig. 2, a petal. Fig. 3, the stamens and pistil. Fig. 4, a
separate stamen. All magnified.
S. sagittatus, Nutt. in Jour. Acad. Nat. Se. VIL, p- 12; not
Hook and Arn.—Shore of the Salt Lake, May 6.
SISYMBRIUM CANESCENS, Nutt.—West shore of Salt Lake. —
PHYSARIA DIDYMOCARPA, Gray. PI. Illustr. I., p. 162, (in a
note.) Vesicaria diguclael, Hook.—On Green VEN In fruit,
September 12th.
CLEOME LUTEA, Hook. Fl. Bor. Amer. L., p. 70, t. 25. @. pe he
Nutt Carrington’ s Island, Salt Lake. FI. Tale 18.
Except in the greater aati of the stipe and the large size of
the plant, I see nothing to distinguish C. aurea of Nuttall from this
species.
«SIDALCEA MALVHFLORA, Gray, mss. SS. orogana, Gray, pl.
Fendl., p. 20. Stda malveflora, Lindl. WS. orogana, Nutt.—
Antelope Island, Salt Lake. FI. June 18-30. A white-flowered
variety Se in the same locality.
MALVASTRUM COCCINEUM, Gray, Gen. Ill. t. 121, pl. Fendl. p.
24. Cristarta coccinea, Pursh. Sida coccinea, D. C., Torr. and
Gr., fl. 1, p. 682. 3 |
Tae B GROSSULARIHFOLIUM. M. grossularicefolium, Gray, l.c.
Sida grossularicefolia, Hook. and Arn. —Islands and shore of the
Salt Lake. May and June.
Except in the larger size of the plant and in the less divided
leaves, the var. 3 does not differ from the ordinary form of I.
coccineum.
CALLIRRHOE INVOLUCRATA, Gray, Gen. Ill. 2, t. 117; Pl.
Y, A
BN
Adrerman lath 379 BroacdwayNY
4 vG
SPREE RANTHUS CRASSICAULIS, Torre Frew.
—. . |
- —"Fiicemmnim Lath 079 Broadway t
PHACA MOLLISSIMA 8. Torr
APPENDIX D.—BOTANY. 885
Fendl. p. 16. Malva involucrata, Torr. and Gr. FI. By py 226.
Upper waters of the Platte. The large tapering root is said to be
edible.
VictA AMERICANA, Muhl.—Valley of Salt Lake, June 1.
CicER ARIETINUM, Lin.—Sandy bottom land in the Valley
of Salt Lake; probably introduced. This plant has also been
found by Dr. Pickering on the banks of the Kooskooskee, or Clear
Water, in Oregon; and I have received it from Southern California,
where it was doubtless taken by the Spaniards. It is a little
remarkable that it should now be found apparently wild in the
interior of Oregon and in the valleys of Utah.
PHACA MOLLIsSIMA, Nutt. in Torr. and Gr. Fl. 1, p. 350.
Astragalus purshii, Dougl. in Hook. Fl. Bor., Amer. 1, p. 152.
Var. @ UTAHENSIS; foliolis. 6-8, jugis, obovatis; pedunculis folio
longioribus. Shores and islands of the Salt Lake. This plant
is abundant in the Territory of Utah, and I have not received it
from any other region. It differs from the ordinary form of P.
mollissima: and if there were not what appear to be intermediate
states of it, 1 should consider it-a distinct species. It is less
branched, and has more numerous leaflets than the var. @. The
flowers are violet, four to six in number, in a short spiked raceme.
The nearly mature legume is densely clothed with long woolly
cream-coloured hairs, and very closely resembles that of P. mol-
lissima. Our plant has much the appearance of Astragalus gla-
reosus, Dougl. (A. argophyllus, Dougl.,) and which, I suspect, is
a Phaca, but the leaves and fruit are different.
Plate Il. Phaca mollissima, var. utahensis of the natural size.
Fig. 1, a flower. Fig. 2, the wings and heel. Fig. 3, the
stamens. Jig. 4, mature fruit of the var. q Fig. 5, cross
section of the same. Fig. 6, immature fruit of var. utahensis.
ASTRAGALUS ADSURGENS, Pall. ?—West shore of the Salt Lake,
in sandy soil. Flowers white, shaded with purple. This plant
seems intermediate between A. adsurgens and A. striatus, Nutt.
The legumes were not found. May 1. |
OXYTROPIS LAMBERTI, Pursh.—Upper waters of the Platte, &c.;
frequent.
HEDYSARUM MACKENZII, Richards. App. Frankl. Journ. ed. 2,
p. 28.—Promontory Range, Utah. FI. May 1.
20
386 APPENDIX D.—BOTANY.
LUPINUS ALBICAULIS, Dougl.?—High grassy land, Antelope
Island, Salt Lake. Fl. June 30. A suffrutescent species densely
clothed with short appressed almost silvery hairs. The leaflets
are mostly in sevens, oblanceolate and acute. The flowers are
nearly as large as in L. perennis, in rather dense, somewhat ver-
ticillate spikes; and the upper lip of the calyx is strongly soccate
or slightly spurred.
CowANIA STANSBURIANA, Torr. (Plate III.) OC. foliis pin-
natifido 5—7-lobatis, lobis oblongis; floribus flavis. C. plicata ?
Torr. in Frém. 2d Report, p. 314; not of Don. Stansbury’s
Island, Salt Lake. Colonel Frémont collected this plant in the
mountains of California, along the Virgin River, a tributary of
the Colorado. It is nearly related to C. mexicana, Don, (in Linn.
Trans. 14, p. 574, t. 22, f. 1,) which has also yellow flowers; but
the leaves in that species are three parted, with linear segments,
and they have a long narrowly cuneate base.
A third species of this genus, C. plicata, Don, was introduced
into England from Mexico in 1835, and figured in Sweet’s British
Flower Garden, (t. 400.) ‘This is clearly the plant afterward de-
scribed and beautifully figured by Zuccarini in his Plant. Nov. v.
minus cognit, under the name of Cowania purpurea. It is also
Greggia rupestris of Englemann, in Wislizenius’s Jour.
The C. stansburiana is a shrub attaining the height of from
six to twelve feet. It is much branched, and the young twigs are
glandular. The leaves grow mostly from short spurs. They are
ovate in outline, 4-6 lines long, deeply cut into five or seven
lobes, and whitish tomentose underneath, except the strong green
midrib, but green and somewhat glabrous above. They are revo-
lute on the margin, of a coriaceous texture, and sparingly dotted
with conspicuous glands. The flowers are solitary, terminal, and
‘on short peduncles. The calyx-tube is turbinate and glandular ;
the segments are broad and obtuse. Petals sulphur-yellow, broadly ©
obovate, two or three times the length of the calyx-segments.
Styles persistent, beautifully plumose, and in fruit an inch or more
m length. Achenium linear-oblong, striate, and clothed with short
appressed hairs. For further remarks on the genus Cowania, see
Plante Fremontianze, in the Smithsonian Contributions, vol. 5.
Plate III. Cowania stansburiana; a branch of the natural
size. Fig. 1, a leaf of the natural size. Fig. 2, upper surface
of a leaf magnified. Fig. 3, under surface of the same. Fig. 4,
vio Broadway We
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APPENDIX D.—BOTANY. , 387
a flower-bud. Fig. 5, a flower laid open. Fig. 6, a petal. Fig.
7, plan of the flower. Fig. 8, a pistil. Fig. 9, front view of the
style and stigma. Fig. 10, side view of the same. Fig. 11, a
carpel of the natural size. Fig. 12, the same magnified. Fig. 13,
a stamen seen in front. Fig. 14, the same seen from behind.
Fig. 15, longitudinal section of a ripe carpel, showing the erect
seed. Fig. 16, transverse section of the same. All the figures
except No. 1 are more or less magnified.
SprrEA DuMoSA, Nutt. Mss.; Hook. Lond. Jour. Bot. 6, p. 217;
Gray, pl. Fendl. p. 40. S&S. discolor, Torr. in Ann. Lyc., N. York,
2, p. 195; not of Pursh.—Stansbury’s Island, Salt Lake. Fl.
June 26.
Plate IV. Spirewa dumosa; a branch of the natural size. Fig.
1, the fructiferous calyx. Fig. 2, a carpel. Fig. 3, the same
laid open.
S. OPULIFOLIA, var. PAUCIFLORA, Torr. and Gr. Fl. 1, p. 414.—
Summit of a mountain on Stansbury’s Island, Salt Lake. Fl. June
26. A tall, much branched shrub, with leaves scarcely more than
half an inch in diameter.
CHNOTHERA CHSPITOSA, Nutt.—Shore and islands of the Salt
Lake. May and June. Usually acaulescent, but sometimes throw-
ing up a branching stem about six inches high. The flower is
from two to three inches in diameter, white and fragrant. WS.
montana, of Nuttall, is hardly distinct from this species, and,
perhaps, @. marginata should be regarded as a variety of the
same.
CH. scaporpEA, Nutt. in Torr. and Gr, FI. 1, p. 506.—Western ©
shore of the Salt Lake. Fl. and fr. May.
CH. ALBICAULIS, Nutt.; Torr. and Gr. Fl. p. 495.—Islands of
the Salt Lake. Fl. June. Stem about a foot high; the flowers
small, white, and inodorous.
GAYOPHYTUM RAMOSISSIMUM, Torr. and Gr. Fl. 1, p. 513.—
Antelope Island, Salt Lake. Stem about eighteen inches high,
with very slender branches, and flowers even smaller than in Mr,
Nuttall’s specimen of this plant. The pedicles are about twice as
long as the ripe pod.
MENTZELIA ORNATA, Torr. and Gr., and Gray, Pl. Fendl. p. 47.
Bartonia ornata, Nutt.—Islands of the Salt Lake. In our speci-
388 APPENDIX D.—BOTANY.
mens there are only five petals; and the filaments of the five
outermost stamens are only a little dilated, while the anthers are
perfect: but in other specimens, collected by Colonel Frémont,
there are ten petals, of which five inner ones are rather smaller
than the others; and so they are described by Mr. Nuttall. Sir
William Hooker thinks that MZ. levicaulis is not distinct from
this species; but Dr. Gray states (1. c.) that it differs in its yellow
flowers, which open in the sunny hours, while in M. ornata they
are white, and open toward sunset.
M. ALBICAULIS, Dougl.; Torr. and Gr. 1. c.—Valley of the
Salt Lake. :
Eropium cricutariumM, L’Herit.—Islands of the Salt Lake.
Fl. June. This plant is widely spread over the western part of
North America, from the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific, and is
doubtless indigenous.
HEUCHERA RUBESCENS, Torr. (sp. nov.)—Scapo nudo glabro vel
scabriusculo; foliis suborbicularibus breviter 5—7-lobatis glabrius-
culis, lobis crenato-dentatis, dentibus setoso-mucronatis, vel obturis ;
panicula oblongo; thyrsoidea sublaxa; staminibus exsertis; petalis
linearibus calyce zquali longioribus.
Stansbury’s Island, Salt Lake. Fl. June 26. Rhizoma thick
and somewhat ligneous, clothed with brown vestiges of leaves.
Leaves an inch or an inch and a-half in diameter, nearly orbicular,
mostly cordate at the base, somewhat coriaceous, either wholly gla-
brous or very sparingly strigose-pubescent, moderately 5—T-lobed,
and the lobes crenate, or broadly toothed. The teeth usually
mucronate and sometimes ciliolate. Petioles 2-4 inches long.
Scapes varying from a span to fifteen inches high, entirely naked,
except a few remote appressed scales. Panicle rather loose and
few (15-20) flowered. Flowers about one-third larger than in
H. americana. Blacts lanceolate and often toothed. Calyx pur-
plish red, campanulate, pubescent; the segments linear-oblong,
obtuse, and nearly equal. Petals narrowly linear, persistent, about
as long as the stamens. Styles much exserted.
This species has the foliage of H. parvifolia, the inflorescence of
H. hispida, and the calyx of H. americana.
Plate V. Heuchera rubescens, of the natural size. Fig. 1, a
flower. Fig. 2, the same laid open. Fig. 3, transverse section
of a capsule. Fig. 4, a seed. All the figures are magnified.
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APPENDIX D.—BOTANY. 889
PHUCEDANUM CITERNATUM, (var.? PLATYCARPUM.)—Fructibus
obovatis, alis membranaceis disci sesquilatioribus.—With the pre-.
ceding. Except in the broadly-winged fruit, this plant does not
appear to differ essentially from P. biternatum, Nutt.
THASPIUM MONTANUM, Gray.—Fl. Fendl. p.57? On a mountain
bordering the Salt Lake. Fl. May 25. One specimen has a per-
ennial root, crowned with several spreading scapiform stems, which
are (in the flowering state) from five to eight inches long. The
whole plant is very glabrous and somewhat glaucous. The leaves
are bi-tripinnatifidly cut, with oblong, acute, entire, or incised
lobes. The yellow flowers are in dense umbels, with numerous
rays. There is no involucre, and the involucels consist of T—-9
linear lanceolate leaflets. The carpels of the young fruit are
furnished with five broad, undulate wings. The vittz in the in-
tervals seem to be solitary, or sometimes double.
ASTER OBLONGIFOLIUS, Nutt.—Stansbury’s Island, Salt Lake,
June 26.
ERIGERON CONCINNUM, Torr. and Gray, Fl. 2, p. 174.—Valley
of Salt Lake, May 30.
DIETERIA PULVERULENTA, Nutt. in Torr. and Gray, Fl. 1, p.
101.—Green River, Sept. 12.
SOLIDAGO MISSOURIENSIS, Nutt.—With the preceding.
LINOSYRIS SERRULATA, Torr. (nov. sp.)—Ramulis scabriusculis ;
folus anguste linearibus trinervibus rigidiusculis acutis, margine
serulatis; capitulis fastigiato-corymbosis subquadrifloris; squamis
oblongo-lanceolatis glabris subquinquefariam, imbricatis laxiusculis,
exterioribus multo brevioribus, coroliis glabris.—Valley of the
Salt Lake.
GRINDELIA SQUARROSA, Dunal.—Bear River, near the Hot and
Cold Springs. Fl. May 10.
STENOTUS CcaspPrITosuS, Nutt. in Torr. and Gray, Fl. 2, p. 238.—
Valley of the Salt Lake.
AMBROSIA CORONOPIFOLIA, Torr. and Gray, Fl. 2, p. 291.—
Table land at the northern extremity of Salt Lake Valley, Sept. 19.
Monorurix, Torr. (nov. gen.)—Capitulum hemisphericum, radia-
tum. Involucrum subtriseriale; squamis subzequalibus oblongo-line-
aribus. Receptaculum, nudum. Flores radii foeminei, uniseriales
890 APPENDIX D.—BOTANY.
ligulati; ligula oblonga, apice tridentata. Flores disci hermaphroditi
4-dentati. Styli rami lineares, appendice elongato-lanceolata ter-
minati. Achenia radii et disci conformia. Pappus uniaristatus;
arista scabra corolla breviore; squamule, null, suffrutices e
basi ramosissimi. Folia opposita, vel alterna, ovata petiolata den-
tata vel sublobata. Pedunculi terminales, elongati, monocephali.
Flores lutei.
M. sTANSBURIANA, Torr.—Crevices of limestone rocks on Stans-
bury’s Island, Salt Lake. Fl. June 26.
The lower part of the stem is thick and ligneous, but the branches
are herbaceous. These are about a span high and are minutely
glandular-pubescent. The leaves are scarcely half an inch in dia-
meter, broadly ovate, or almost orbicular in outline, often subcor-
date at the base, with a few coarse, obtuse teeth, or almost lobed;
the lower ones mostly opposite, but the upper ones often alternate.
Heads 6-8 lines in diameter. Scales of the involucre in two
or three series lanceolate, acute, glandularly puberulous, some-
what villous at the tip. Rays 6-10; the limb longer than the
tube, and nearly twice as long as the involucral scales. Disk
flowers constantly 4-toothed in all my specimens. Achenium obo-
vate-oblong, compressed, slightly hispid-ciliate on the margin,
crowned with a single rigid, upwardly scabrous bristle.
This genus is nearly related to Perityle of Bentham (Bot. Sulph.
p- 23,) but differs in the absence of squamellz on the achenium;
the pappus consisting of a single bristle. A second species exists
in Lindheimer’s Texan collection of 1850, (No. 314.)
Plate VI. Monothrix stansburiana, of the natural size. Fig. 1,
a leaf. Fig. 2, A head of flowers. Fig. 3, an involucrum laid
open, the flowers removed to show the receptacle. Fig. 4, the
same divided longitudinally. Fig. 5, an inner and an outer scale
of the involucrum. Fig. 6, a ray flower. Fig. 7, a disk flower.
Fig. 8, corolla of the disk flower laid open. Fig. 9, branches of
the style and their appendages.
CHENACTIS STEVIOIDES, Hook. and Arn.; Torr. and Gray, Fl.
2, p. 871.—Strong’s Knob, Salt Lake, June 10. Several of the
ray flowers have the corolla dilated, but the lobes still nearly equal,
and, as is the pappus, considerably shorter than in the disk flowers.
C. tenutfolia of Nutt. is scarcely distinct from this species.
C. ACHILLEHFOLIA, Hook. and Arn.; Torr. and Gray, Fl. 1.¢— _
_ Stansbury’s Island, June 20. Stems about a span high, several
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CHENACTIS ACHILLE A\FOLIA Hooke Arn. 2.
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APPENDIX D.—BOTANY. 391
from one root. Leaves somewhat fleshy, densely clothed with a
white tomentum; the lobes very small, obtuse, and much crowded.
Heads few (8-6) in a terminal corymb. Flowers of the ray and
disk nearly alike, funnel-form. Pappus of about ten oblong,
obtuse, denticulate scales; five of which, in the disk flowers, are
nearly as long as the tube of the corolla, and the five other about
half as long. Scales im the ray flowers much shorter than the
corolla tube.
Plate VII. Chenactis achillecfolia, of the natural size. Fig. 1,
ahead of flowers. Fig. 2, an exterior scale of the involucrum.
Fig. 3, an interior scale of the same. Tig. 4, a disk flower.
Fig. 5, cross section of an achenium. Fig. 6, a ray flower. Fig.
7, branches of the style and appendages. Fig. 8 and 9, scales of
the pappus from a disk flower.
LAYIA GLANDULOSA, Hook. and Arn., Torr. and Gray, P12,
p- 394.—Valley of the Salt Lake, east side.
ACHILLEA MILLEFOLIUM, Lin.—Islands of the Salt Lake, June.
ARTEMISIA TRIDENTATA, Nutt. in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc.
(n. ser.) 7, p. 898.—Green River, Sept. 12. Many of the larger
species of the genus are called «“Sage’’ by the hunters and emi-
grants. |
A. FrigipA, Willd.; Torr. and Gray, Fl. 2, p. 424.—With the
preceding.
A. Lupovicrana, Nutt., gen. 2, p. 148.—With the preceding.
A. CANADENSIS, Mich., Fl. 2, p. 129.—With the preceding.
SENECIO FILIFOLIUS, Nutt. in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soe. (n. ser.)
7, p- 414.—Green River, September.
S. HYDROPHILUS, Nutt. 1. c.—Valley of the Salt Lake.
S. HOOKERI, Torr. and Gray, Fl. 2, p. 488.—Weber River,
May 16. Scales of the involucre with black villous tips.
_ TETRADYMIA NUTTALLI, Torr. and Gray. 7. spinosa, Nutt.,
1, c.—Shore of the Salt Lake, May 5. A thorny shrub, about
four feet high. _ | .
| CIRSIUM UNDULATUM, Spreng.—Stansbury’s Island, Salt Lake.
FL June 24.
STEPHANOMERIA RUNCINATA, Nutt. in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc.
‘7, p. 427.—Carrington’s Island, Salt Lake.
392 APPENDIX D.—BOTANY.
LYGODESMIA JUNCEA, Don.; Hook., Fl. Bor. Amer. 1, p. 295.—
Stansbury’s Island, Salt Lake, June 23. The heads in our speci-
mens are quite as large as in L. grandiflora. Captain Stansbury
states that the flowers are purple.
MALACOTHRIX SONCHOIDES, Torr. and Gray, Fl. 2, p.486.—Shore
of the Salt Lake, and on Carrington’s Island, May 30. The pap-
pus is decidedly double in this species. The outer series consists
of five slender, nearly glabrous, and somewhat persistent bristles ;
the inner of about fifteen scabrous capillary bristles, which are
caducous, and separate in a ring. I have seen the same character
in two or three other species. Dr. Gray, in his Plante Fendleri-
ane, (p. 113, No. 453,) says that he noticed in « M. sonchotdes,
M. coulteri, and especially in M. californica, that two (opposite)
bristles of the pappus are naked, instead of barbellate, and rather
stronger and less deciduous than the others.” In JZ. sonehoides
I believe the outer series always consists of five bristles; but in
some species they are variable in number, and in others are entirely
wanting.
CREPIS ACUMINATA, Nutt. 1. ¢.; Torr. and Gray, Fl. 2, 489.—
Stansbury’s Island, Salt Lake, June 23. This is the tallest of our
indigenous species of crepis. Some of our specimens are about
three feet high. The radical leaves (including the petioles) are
more than a foot in length.
Plate VIII. Crepis acuminata, of the natural size. Fig. 1, a
separate flower magnified, as are the following. Fig. 2, an ache-
nium with its pappus. Fig. 3, one of the hairs of the pappus.
FROXIMON cUSPIDATUM, Pursh. Fl. 2, p. 742.—Valley of the
Salt Lake.
CASTILLEJA HISPIDA, Benth. in Hook. Fl. Bor. Amer. 2, p. 105.
—Shore of the Salt Lake, May.
C. MINIATA, Dougl. in- Hook. Fl. Bor. Amer. |. c.—With the
preceding.
C. SESSILIFLORA, Pursh. Fl. 2, p. 738.—Weber River.
PENSTEMON GRANDIFLORUM, Nutt. in Fras. Catal., 1813.—On
the Arkansas River.
ERITRICHIUM GLOMERATUM, D.C. Prodr. 10, p. 131. Myosotis
glomerata, Nutt.—Near Salt Lake City. Fl. April 29.
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APPENDIX D.—BOTANY. 393
EcHINOSPERMUM FLORIBUNDUM, Lehm.; Hook. Fl. Bor. Amer.
2, p. 84.—Valley of the Malade, Sept. 25. Near H. deflecum.
AMSINCKIA LycopsorpEs, Lehm.; D. ©. Prodr. 10, p. 117.—
Shore of the Salt Lake. Fl. May 5th.
MERTENSIA DRUMMONDII, G. Don.; D. C. Prodr. 10, p. 86.—
Salt Lake Valley.
LITHOSPERMUM? crRcUMScISsUM, Hook. and Arn., Bot. Beech.
Voy., suppl. p. 870.—On Green River. In my account of the
plants collected in California and Oregon by the United States
Exploring Expedition, I have made this plant the type of a new
genus, (P%ptocalyz,) allied to Eritrichium, from which it differs in
its naked corolla and deciduous calyx.
HYDROPHYLLUM capPITaTUM, Dougl.; Benth. Trans. Lin. Soc.
17, p. 278.—Ogden’s Pass, May 15.
EUTOCA HETEROPHYLLA, Torr. (n. sp.)—Erecta, scabro-pubescens;
foliis oblongo-linearibus subsessilibus, integris vel ad basin utrinque
unilobatis, lobis oblongis v. linearibus; floribus brevi-pedicellatis ;
lobis calycinis spathulata linearibus obtusiusculis; corolla patenti-
campanulata calyce sesquilongiore; placentis multiovulatis.—Val-
ley of the Salt Lake, on the eastern side.
Annual; about a foot high. Radical leaves spatulate; the cau-
line ones broadly linear, 1-14 inch long; either entire or furnished
on each side at the base (sometimes only on one side) with a
spreading, narrow, acute lobe, so that the leaves appear somewhat
halberd-form. Racemes short, terminating the branches. Lobes
of the calyx about three and a-half lmes long. Corolla widely
campanulate, almost rotate, about five lines long; the lobes short
and rounded. Appendages ten, narrow, connivant in pairs between
the bases of the filaments. Stames nearly equal, a little shorter
than the corolla. Style somewhat exserted; 2-lobed at the
summit. Ovary with 15-20 ovules attached to each placenta.
This species resembles H. phacelioides, Benth., but differs in the
nearly sessile narrower leaves, the larger and broadly campanulate
- corolla, many-ovuled placentze, &c.
Grura (Ipomopsis) PULCHELLA, Dougl. in Hook. Fl. Bor. Amer.
2, p. 74.—Ogden Pass, May 15.
COLLOMIA LINEARIS, Nutt. Gen. Amer. pl. 1, p. 126.—W<th the
preceding.
394 APPENDIX D.—BOTANY.
PuHLox HOODII, Richards, in Frankl. Jour. app. ed. 2, P. 6, t. 28.
—Mountains near the Salt Lake, April and May. |
P. tonarroiia, Nutt. Jour. Acad. Philad. 7, p. 41.—N BE Site).
shore of the Salt Take: and near the mouth of Bas River, May 10.
PHYSALIS LANCEOLATA, Mich.—Salt Lake Valley, June.
GENTIANA AFFINIS, Griseb., Gent. p. 289.—Moist places, Aug.18.
ACERATES DECUMBENS, Decaisne in D. C. Prod. 8, p. 522.
Anantherix decumbens, Nutt.—Mountain on Stansbur'y’s Island,
Salt Lake, June 26. Stems often assurgent. Calyx and corolla
green. Crown dark purple.
CoMANDRA UMBELLATA, Nutt., Gen. 1, p. 157; Hook. Fl. Bor.
Amer. 2, p. 189 t. 179—-Gitmabairss pare Salt Lake. Fr.
June 20.
RuMEX VENOSUS, Pursh. Fl. 2, p.? Green River. Fr. Septem-
ber 12.
ERIGONUM UMBELLATUM, Torr. in Annal. Lyc. Nat. Hist. New
York, 2, p. 241.—Valley of the Salt Lake.
EK. Fremontil, Torr.—With the preceding.
SARCOBATUS VERMICULARIS, Torr. in Emory’s Report, p. 149.
S. maximiliani, Nees. Fremontia vermicularis, Torr. in Fremont’s
first and second Reports. « Pulpy Thorn” of Lewis and Clark’s
travels.—Strong’s Knob, Salt Lake, Fl. June 10.
GRAYIA POLYGONOIDES, Hook. and Arn. Bot. Beech. Voy. suppl.
p. 338, Hook. ict., 271. G. spinosa, Mog. in D. C. Prodr. 11, p.
110.—Carrington’s Island, Salt Lake.
CHENOPODINA LINEARIS, Mog. in D. C. Prodr. 11, p. 164, excel.
syn. Ell. and Michx.—Mountain on the west shore of the Salt
Lake. Fl. May 30. This plant attains the height of about three
feet. The lower part of the stem is stout and shrubby. It differs
entirely from the C. maritima of the Atlantic States; yet the
authors who describe it as not shrubby are quoted by Moquin
under C. linearis.
_ARTHROCNEMUM FRUCTICOSUM, Mog. Chenop. Enum. p. 111,
andin D. C. Prodr. 11, p. 151?—North-shore of the Salt Lake. A
common plant in all the salines of New Mexico and California.
It is a shrub about one foot high, and much branched. The joints
of the branches are more or less compressed, and emarginately
APPENDIX D.—BOTANY. ' Boe
bifid at the summit. The spikes are cylindrical and are not
jointed; the flowers being alternate, and immersed in deep exca-
vations of the rachis. The calyx is quadrangular, and consists
of four cohering sepals, which are cucullate, spongy at the summit,
and at length separate from each other. There is but a solitary
stamen. ‘The seed is loose in the utricle, oblong, and the embryo
forms about half of an ellipse.
OBIONE .CANESCENS, Moq. Chenop. p. 74, and O. occidentalis,
Mogq. in D. C. Prodr. 11, p. 112. Pterochiton occidentale, Torr. and
Frem., in Frém. second Rep. p. 818. Obione tetraptera, Benth.
Bot. Voy. Sulph. p. 48.—On Green River. Fr. September 10.
This is a variable species, especially in the characters of the
mature fructiferous calyx. Sometimes it is furnished with short,
irregular-toothed wings, and at other times the wings are very
broad and nearly entire.
O. CONFERTIFLORA, Torr. and Frém. 1. c.—With the preceding.
ABRONIA MELLIFERA, Doug. Miss. Hook. Fl. Bor. Amer. 2, p.
125, Bot. Mag. 1. 2879.—Strong’s Knob, Salt Lake. Fl. June 10.
Easily distinguished from A. wmbellata by its broad involucral
leaves and green flowers. A. micranthus, Torr. in Frémont’s first
Report, p. 96, and in Emory’s Report, p. 149, seems to be a
particular state of the plant, in which it bears very small but
perfect flowers. In those works I noticed the peculiarity of the
embryo; the inner cotyledon being constantly abortive. The same
character exists in all the species of this genus: but I have not
observed it in any other nyctagineous plant.
SHEPHERDIA ARGENTEA, Nutt. Gen. Amer. Pl. 2.—Black’s
Fork of the Green River. Fr. September 12.
EPHEDRA AMERICANA, Willd. Spec. Pl. 4, p. 860? Endl. Synops.
Conif. p. 254.—Shore of the Salt Lake. A leafless shrub with
very numerous branches, growing about four feet high. It is very
doubtful whether it be the same as Willdenow’s plant, which is a
native of Quito. Although it is not uncommon in the interior of
California and in New Mexico, I have never received the female
flower or the fruit. All my specimens are males. H. americana
is described as moneecious. The Hphedra noticed in Emory’s
Report under the name of LH. occidentalis, (a mistake for H. amer-
cana), differs from this species in its three-parted sheaths with long
subulate points. |
396 APPENDIX D.—BOTANY.
TRIGLOCHIN MARITIMUM, Lin.—Pursh. FI. 1, p. 257. —Stans-
bury’s Island, Salt Lake, June 24.
POLYGONATUM CANALICULATUM, Pursh. Fl. 1, p. 235.—Valley
of the Salt Lake?
AMIANTHIUM NUTTALLII, Gray, Melanth. in Ann. Lye. Nat.
Hist. N. York, IV., p. 123. Helonias angustifolia, and H.
paniculata, Nutt.—Valley of the Salt Lake. Fl. May 1.
AMBLIRION, Rafin. in Journ. de Phys. 89, p. 102; Bernhardi,
Bot. Zeit. 1835, p. 895? (ex Kth. Enum. 4, p. 255.) Laliwm §
Amblirion, Endl. gen. sub. No. 1098. Fritillaria § Hucrinum,
Nutt.
A. PUDICUM, var. BIFLORUM, Torr. Lilium pudieum, Pursh.
Fl. 1, p. 228, f. 1.; Schult. Syst. 7, p. 401. Fritillaria pudica,
Spreng. Syst. 2, p. 64; Nutt. in Journ. Acad. Phil. 7, p. 54.
Hook. Fl. Bor. Amer. 2, p. 182; Kunth Enum, 1. c.—Promontory
Range, Valley of Salt Lake. Fl. April 12.
This rare and interesting plant was long ago proposed as a
distinct genus by the late Mr. Rafinesque. It is allied both to
Fritillaria and to Lilium. It differs from both in the want of
nectaries. Unfortunately the fruit is not known, so that it can-
not be compared with those genera in an important character.
Our specimens are all two-flowered. The root is flat, orbicular,
and toothed round the border, with a cluster of little tubers on the
upper side at the base of the stem. ‘The leaves are linear, and
from two to four inches long. The flowers are yellow, nodding,
about an inch in length, somewhat obconical or funnel-form, and
entirely destitute of a nectariferous groove. The stigma is simple
and undivided.
According to Mr. Nuttall, Fritillaria tulipefolia of Caucasus is
another species of this genus. I have also specimens of what may
prove to be a third species, collected by Colonel Frémont on the
Feather River, California; for the style, though thickened at the
summit, is undivided, and the nectary is wanting: but there are
several flowers in a loose racemose panicle.
Plate IX. <Amblirion pudicum, of the natural size. Fig. 1, a
sepal magnified, as are all the following. Fig. 2, a stamen show-
ing the back of the anther. Fig. 3, a front view of the same.
Fig. 4, the pistil. Fig. 5, a cross section of the ovary.
oadway, NY
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Ackerman Lith 379 B
UM.
AMBLIRION PUDIC
APPENDIX D.—BOTANY. 8397
ALLIUM STELLATUM, Fraser, Bot. Mag. t. 1576.—Weber River,
May 23.
A. RETICULATUM, Fraser, Bot. Mag. t. 1840.—Wahsatch Moun-
tains, June.
CALOCHORTUS LUTEUS, Nutt. in Jour. Acad. Phil. 7, p. 53;
probably not of Douglass.—Valley of Salt Lake. The root is called
<<sego”’ by the natives, and is much esteemed by them as food.
It is bulbous, and varies in size from that of a pea to that of a
filbert. Our plant agrees exactly with the description of Nuttall,
who was probably mistaken as to the colour of the flower. The
inner sepals seem to be whzte, except at the claw, which is yellow.
I have not been able to institute a comparison between this plant
and Douglass’s C. luteus ; but if ours proves to be distinct, it may
be called C. nuttalli.
ERYTHRONIUM GRANDIFLORUM, Pursh. Fl. 1, p. 231. Lindl.
Bot. Reg. t. 1786.—With the preceding.
TRITELEIA GRANDIFLORA, Lindl. Bot. Reg. fol. 1293. Hook.
Fl. Bor. Am. 2, p. 186, t. 198, B.—Valley of Salt Lake. FI.
May.
JUNCUS BALTICUS, Willd., Hook. Fl. Bor. Amer. 2, p. 189.—
Antelope Island, Salt Lake, June 1.
SISYRINCHIUM BERMUDIANA, Lin. S. anceps, Cavan.—Walnut
Creek.
Hypoxis EREctTA, Lin.—Upper Arkansas.
ScCIRPUS TORREYI? Olney.—Gray, Bot. N. States, p. 526?—
Stansbury’s Island, Salt Lake. Fr. June 26.
Differs from S. torreyi in its longer and larger spikes, and in
shorter point of the achenium; but in other respects it agrees.
Errocoma cuspipata, Nutt. Gen. 1, p. 40.—Antelope Island,
Salt Lake, June 18. A beautiful grass, which seems to be distinct
from Stipa.
_ KokLertia cristata, Pers.—Gray, Gram. and Cyp. 1, No. 45.—
With the preceding.
Horpeum JuspatumM, Lin.—Torr. Fl. 1, p. 158.—Antelope
Island, Salt Lake, June.
AGROPYRUM REPENS, Gaert.—With the preceding.
CLymus striatus, Willd.—With the preceding.
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APPENDIX E.
LETTER FROM PROFESSOR JAMES HALL, OF NEW YORK,
a CONTAINING OBSERVATIONS ON THE
GEOLOGY AND PALZXONTOLOGY
OF THE
COUNTRY TRAVERSED BY THE EXPEDITION,
AND
NOTES UPON SOME OF THE FOSSILS
COLLECTED ON THE ROUTE.
APPENDIX E.
GEOLOGY AND PALAONTOLOGY.
ae
BY PROF. JAS. HALL.
AuBany, February, 1852.
CAPTAIN STANSBURY :
DAR S1r:—I have examined with care the specimens of rocks
and fossils which you submitted to my inspection. I find them,
with some few exceptions, to represent very clearly the products
of four distinct geological periods, as follows:—The older are me- |
tamorphic rocks of silurian or devonian age, or perhaps both; the
next in order, and recognisable by their fossil remains, are of the
carboniferous period; the third are of the cretaceous period; and the
fourth are of the tertiary. Besides these there are the products
of ancient volcanic action in the basalts and amygdaloids, with
some specimens of obsidian.
After a careful examination of the specimens, and a comparison
with the notes and journal which you submitted to me, I have
marked upon the map of your route, and upon the map of the
Salt Lake region, the different colours indicating the ‘character
of the geology at the different points where the specimens were
collected. I am aware that the specimens with the notes, together,
would have warranted me in colouring in a more extended manner,
but I have preferred to confine myself to the position and actual
evidences furnished by specimens. By having the map in this
condition nothing is hazarded, and every new fact obtained can be
readily added to it, or it may be filled up to some extent from the
indications furnished by the topographical features. _
It will be the more satisfactory mode to follow your route in the
remarks I shall make in this connection.
The first specimens furnished are from the west side of the Mis-
‘souri River, near and above Fort Leavenworth. These are all
from limestone of the carboniferous period, and apparently from
the upper of the two great limestones of this period in the west.
The most conspicuous fossils are Productus, Terebratula, &c.
si 401
402 APPENDIX E.—GEOLOGY.
The route from the Missouri westward shows a continuation of
this limestone as far as the Big Blue.
Here it disappears, judging from specimens and remarks in the
notes. It is soon succeeded by strata of cretaceous age, which,
from the specimens preserved, I have been able to recognise as
extending for a considerable distance on the route between Turkey
Creek and Big Sandy.
Among the cretaceous fossils are a species of Pholadomya, and
the Inoceramus, which is so common and abundant in numerous
localities in this region.
It is quite probable that these beds extend much farther, but
I find no specimens in the collection; and the notes indicate that
there are heavy deposites of drift, which may have obscured the
exposure of the formation below.
This drift formation, (judging from the descriptions given in the
notes,) or the debris from the immediate geological formation, ap-
pears to have covered the older stratified deposites, since no men-
tion is made of them till approaching the forks of Platte River on
the 25th June. At this point were collected some specimens of
clays with small marine shells, too imperfect for determination; but
from the general character, and from the occurrence of bones in the
same place, it is presumed that they are of tertiary age. Above
the forks of the Platte River similar bones and shells are noticed,
and, on the 1st of July, specimens of bones were collected. Nu-
merous fragments of bones were collected on the 3d of July, ap-
parently belonging to some mammalia of the herbivorous character.
These bones are too imperfect for determination beyond their
general character. From the description of the mode of occurrence,
and their being imbedded in a matrix of considerable hardness and
tenacity, one would be led to infer that they were of some tertiary
deposite.
Among these specimens is a single ramus of the lower jaw, which
apparently belonged to some carnivorous animal; but no teeth are
preserved in it, nor were any teeth of any kind found in the col-
lection.
From July 3d to 11th, the notes give no evidence of any thing
of special interest. On the latter date, bones are memtioned as
occurring in the locality examined, but no specimens having this
date are preserved in the collection.
It would appear that the character of the country from near
Fort Kearny to near Fort Laramie is uniform, and that no de-
APPENDIX E.—GEOLOGY. 403
posite of older date than the tertiary were cbserved. Of the
specimens collected there is but a single individual indicating the
character of a marine formation. From the condition of the bones
it may even be questioned whether the deposite containing them is
not of post tertiary age.
The specimens from the vicinity of Fort Laramie are all from
limestone of the carboniferous period. Some of the fossils are
identical with species: collected between the Missouri and the Big
Blue, and we can only suppose, from the great similarity of the
specimens, that it is a continuation of the same formation. From
the dates marked upon the specimens, it is evident that this lime-
stone extends to some distance on the east and west of Fort
Laramie.
The specimens bearing date of July 19th, two days’ march
northwest of Fort Laramie, are a feldspathic granite with little
quartz or mica. The rocks in this locality are doubtless of me-
tamorphic origin, probably rocks of silurian age. The specimens
collected three days’ march in advance of this place, on the North
Fork of the Platte River, are shaly sandstone and thinly laminated
sandstones containing fossils. ‘The fossils are some brachiopods,
with others similar to Monotis, and we may presume from the
described position of the beds, and from the character of the fos-
sils, that these beds are of devonian age. In the journal these
beds are recorded as dipping at the rate of 15° to the north-east.
The specimens bearing the mark of July 24th, are precisely like
those collected at Fort Laramie, and contain the same species of
fossils. On the same date were seen (according to the journal)
gray and red sandstones. On the following day is recorded a bed
of coral, three or four feet thick, with Sigillarta and Calamites.
The specimens of this date sent to me are those of bituminous coal
and others of soft shale, but I have been unable to distinguish any
well-marked vegetable remains.
From the proximity of limestone of the age of the coal, and the
record of sigillaria and calamites occurring in the same connec-
tion, it may be presumed that this coal belongs to the true coal
measures; and this locality is probably an exposure indicating the
existence of a great basin. ‘This point itself and the surrounding
country are well worthy of a more extended examination, since
the discovery of workable beds of coal in this region would be a
matter of national importance.
The record of July 27th shows the occurrence of red helen and
404 APPENDIX E.—GEOLOGY.
sandstones, which may be of the age of the coal, or beneath that
formation.
From July 30th to August 2d, the notes of the Journal and the
specimens show the existence of compact quartz rock, crystallized
silicious limestone, and conglomerate.
From August 3d to August 6th, I have no specimens indicating
the character of the formations passed over. From this date to
August 11th, including the distance from the southern extremity
of the Wind River Mountains to Fort Bridger, the collections are
all of marine tertiary age, including many specimens of JVautzlus
and other marine shells.
From this time nearly all the records and collections pertain to
the Salt Lake and its vicinity. Near Fort Hall several specimens
of volcanic rocks were collected, and obsidian and lava about
the Pannack and the head of the Malade.
South of Fort Hall the specimens collected are of granular
sandstone, and of quartz rock resulting from an altered sandstone;
to the west, and above these, are chert and limestone of carboni-
ferous age. The limestone in this locality contains fewer shells
than that in the more easterly localities, but has a large number
of corals.
The specimens collected in the islands and shores of the Great
Salt Lake are sufficient to give one a very good idea of the general
geological features. The specimens are of metamorphic rocks,
consisting of talcose and mica slates, hornblende rocks, and a
few specimens of granitic or sienitic character.
Some specimens of the latter description occur along the valley
of Ogden’s River. Antelope Island, Frémont Island, a part of Pro-
montory Point, and Mud Island, on the east side of the lake,
judging from the numerous specimens, consist principally of talcose
and mica slates, with hornblende rock. Carrington Island, Hat
Island, a point north by west from Hat Island, name not known,
and a part of Strong’s Knob, consist of similar rocks with some
of altered sandstone or quartz rock. Im several localities, as at
Promontory Point and near Mud Island, the metamorphic strata
appear to be overlaid by a coarse conglomerate, or coarse sand-
stone, which is partially altered, and assumes the character of a
quartz rock.
From all the facts in my possession, it would appear that these
metamorphic rocks are distinctly stratified and highly inclined, but
do not attain any great elevation. The direction of the ranges,
APPENDIX E.—GEOLOGY. 405
_ corresponding to that of the elevating force, appears to be nearly
in the direction of north by west and south by east. From the
form of the lake and the different localities at which rocks of this
character occur, we may infer that there were two lines of eleva-
tion, corresponding with the divisions of the lake.
The more elevated portions of the lake shore, and the mountain
ranges, consist of carboniferous limestone. In some localities this
limestone is partially altered, losing its granular character and
becoming sub-crystalline, or threaded by numerous veins of cal-
careous spar. In most localities, however, the limestone abounds
with fossils, particularly corals of the cyathophyllidee.
From the records in the journal of observation and from speci-
mens, I have been able to indicate several localities of importance.
The principal of these is Stansbury’s Island, the summit of which
is of limestone, and has an elevation of three thousand feet. The
limestone is said 'to rest on coarse sandstone and conglomerate,
specimens of which accompany the limestone. Limestone also
occurs on the mountains of the Spring Valley range, to the south-
west of the lake.
Stansbury’s Island, from its position at the southern extremity
of the lake, and from its isolated and elevated character, has been
more fully exposed than the localities on the west side. Along the
western shore, southward of Strong’s Knob, the same limestone
was examined and noted in three places, and in two it is marked
as underlaid by sandstone. Limestone also occurs at Strong’s
Knob with the altered rocks. West of the knob, another point is
indicated as limestone; and northward of this, Gunnison’s Island is
of the same rock. Dolphin Island, and also a considerable space
on the shore west of this island, are indicated as limestone, both
from specimens and the journal. On the eastern shore, opposite
Dolphin Island, limestone occurs in close proximity to metamor-
phic strata.
It should not be omitted that the same limestone occurs to the
north of Great Salt Lake City, and is quarried in that neighbour-
hood. It appears both from the specimens and the notes of ob-
servation that the limestone overlies a coarse sandstone, or con-
glomerate, which almost invariably accompanies it.
Although I have not felt at liberty to colour on the map any
other points than those indicated both by the notes and by specimens
examined, yet I can have no doubt but all the elevated ranges on
the west, south, and north of the Great Salt Lake are capped by
406 APPENDIX E.—GEOLOGY.
the carboniferous limestone. Judging from the relative position
of the limestone, and the metamorphic rocks of Antelope and Fré-
mont’s Islands, the former occupies the position of low, synclinal
basins, the valleys between being produced to a large extent, pro-
bably by erosion along the anticlinal axes, produced by the eleva-
tion of the metamorphic beds. We may expect, also, that the
same limestone will be found on the elevated plateaus and moun-
tains on the east side of the lake.
It will be seen from these facts that we have very satisfactory
information that this limestone of the carboniferous period is widely
distributed in the region around the Great Salt Lake. Its position
relative to the coal-bed on the North Fork of Platte River has not
been determined; but since no beds of coal have been observed on
the slopes of the mountains in the region of the Salt Lake, we are
left to infer that the coal is to be sought (as elsewhere) above the
limestone. Since the existence of coal is proved in one point,
(admitting the evidence in favour of its age being that of the car-
boniferous period,) we are warranted in the conclusion that it has
once existed over a much wider area, and can be sought with
success in the proper situations. The importance of this mineral
in that distant region cannot be too highly estimated, and the
geographical position and extent of the beds should be one of the
first points ascertained in the location of any route of communica-
tion between the east and the west.
In comparing the notes and specimens with the map of your route
and the large map of the Salt Lake and adjacent country, I have
confined myself to indicating by a colour the kind of rock occurrmg
at each point, scarcely in any case extending this colouring even
when the topographical features of the country would warrant the
conclusion that the same rock existed. Your knowledge of the
character of the surface and the relative elevations will enable you
in many instances to determine the limits of those formations
marked; while, for myself, not fully understanding their features,
I might fall into some error.
Hoping to see the investigations you have so well begun carried
still further, until we can have a good geographical and geological
inap of this region,
T remain,
Very truly and respectfully,
Your ob’t. serv’t.
JAMES HALL.
S40) es
2 ND
Ackerman Lith 379 Broadway NY.
APPENDIX E.—PALAONTOLOGY. 407
N.B. The colours on the map of the travelled route are—
Belts ai Carboniferous limestone.
AFYOOM Gis. oseeas caus Cretaceous formation.
Yellows. .cscces.cs Tertiary formation.
(In some places not indicated by colour.)
CE? aka a Coal-beds.
Be Misty Sa pid abi inne Metamorphic rock.
On the Great Salt Lake map are—
Le EE Aa Metamorphic rock.
BME eset aes dee saat Limestone.
a Sandstone and conglomerate beneath the
limestone.
NOTES UPON SOME OF THE FOSSILS COLLECTED ON THE ROUTE FROM
THE MISSOURI RIVER TO THE GREAT SALT LAKE, AND IN THE VICI-
NITY OF THE LATTER PLACE, BY THE EXPEDITION UNDER THE
COMMAND OF CAPTAIN HOWARD STANSBURY, T. E.
THE species described in the following paragraphs are either
from limestone of the carboniferous period or from strata nearly
associated, and which, from their character and relations, are
clearly of the same age. The other fossils of the collection con-
sist of a few cretaceous species, and of numerous fragments of
bones from the tertiary formation. .
The brachiopods were collected to the eastward of the Salt Lake
region, and the corals are abundant in the limestone to the west
and north-west of the Salt Lake. The few acephala are from argil~
laceous beds between Fort Laramie and the Salt Lake.
CORALS.—CYaTHOPHYLLIDEA.
FAVIPHYLLUM? RUGOSUM, (n. sp.)
Pirate I. Fic. 1a anv 1b.
Cells deep; structure of the centre unknown; external portion
cellular, with transverse septz and vertical intermediate dissepi-
ments, giving a columnar structure.
408 APPENDIX E.—PALHONTOLOGY.
The specimens are all silicified, and I have been unable to ex-
amine the central portion; the exterior, where weathered, presents —
the appearance of a bundle of the columns of Favosites, except -
that they are generally four-sided, and the inner sides necessarily
narrower than the outer ones.
FAPHRENTIS? MULTILAMELLA .
Puate I. Fia. 2.
Coral free, turbinate, somewhat rapidly expanding, cells deep ;
lamellze numerous, thin; outer portion cellular.
From the specimens in my possession, it cannot be positively
determined that this fossil is a true cy phe: but many features
induce this reference.
Loc. Cloth Cap and Flat Rock, Cisne Salt Lake.
FAPHRENTIS STANSBURII, Hall, (n. sp.)
Puate I. Fie. 3 ab.
Turbinate, free, or attached only by a pedicel nearly straight
or but slightly curved; cup rather deep; margin (when entire)
thin, lamellee numerous, thin, intermediate ones extending from |
the margin one-third to one-half the semidiameter; fossett distinct.
Loc. Stanbury’s Island, Cloth Cap, and Flat-rock Poimt, Great
Salt Lake.
LITHOSTRONTION
, (sp. indet.)
Prats I. Fie. 4ab.
Coral massive; cells of medium size, deep; lamellz crenulate.
The specimen is much weathered, and, from the presence of an
ochreous incrustation, the specific characters cannot be clearly
described. It differs in the dimensions and other characters of the
cells from two species of the carboniferous period known to me
from localities east of the Mississippi River.
Loc. Top of Stansbury’s Island, Great Salt Lake.
Platten
Ackerman Lith $
APPENDIX E.—PALEHONTOLOGY. | 409
BRACHIOPODA. |
TEREBRATULA SUBTILITA.
Puate II..Fia. lab, 2ab.
Gibbous, obovoid; valves nearly equal, convex; beak of the
dorsal valve elevated, incurved, and perforated at the apex; a
mesial depression commencing just below the centre and extending
to the front, which is produced and elevated, filling a broad sinus
in the ventral valve; surface marked by strong concentric strie,
or lines of growth, with faint, often almost imperceptible radiating
strie.
Fig. 1 a, a young individual.
Fig. 1 b, an individual of the ordinary size and form.
Fig. 2 a, a more gibbous form.
Fig. 2 b, profile view of the preceding.
Fig. 2 c, front view of the same.
Loc. Missouri River, near Weston.
SPIRIFER HEMIPLICATA.
Priate II. Fiqa. 3ab.
Shell gibbous; ventral valve more elevated, beaks nearly equal;
entire surface marked by finely radiating strata; each valve with
about three plications on each side of the mesial sinus and eleva-
tion, which plications extend halfway from the base to the beak,
leaving the upper half of the shell marked only by fine striz;
anterior portion of the dorsal valve produced in a long extension,
which fills a deep angular sinus in the ventral valve.
Fig. 3a, view of the dorsal valve, which, from distortion, shows
the beak of the ventral valve projecting above it.
Fig. 3b, front view of the same specimen.
Loc. Missouri River, near Weston.
SPIRIFER OCTOPLICATA ?
Prats II. Fia. 4ab.
The specimens figured appear to be young individuals, and may
probably belong to this characteristic carboniferous species.
Fig. 4a, this specimen has suffered from lateral pressure, caus-
ing an unnatural extension of the beak.
410 APPENDIX E.—PALZONTOLOGY.
Fig. 4b, the dorsal valve of a larger individual, having six pli-
cations on each side of the mesial sinus.
The surface is marked by distinct, undulating, concentric striz,
which are again crossed by finer thread-like elevations, and which
appear to have been the bases of short spines.
Loc. Missouri River, near Weston.
SPIRIFER TRIPLICATA, Hall, (n. sp.)
PrateE II. Fie. abe.
Shell subquadrangular; dorsal valve more gibbous than the ven-
tral; area nearly linear; beak of dorsal valve small, acute, and
closely incurved; mesial depression shallow in the upper part, but
becoming deeper and expanded toward the base, and produced in
front; entire surface, including the mesial sinus and elevation,
covered with fine plications, which, being simple in their origin,
soon divide into three, which are continued to the base without
further division.
This species differs from the S. striatus, Sowerby, in its form,
and in the circumstance that the plications are less subdivided
toward the margin of the shell.
Fig. 5a, ventral valve, and area of the dorsal valve.
Fig. 5b, dorsal valve of the same individual.
Fig. 5¢, profile view of the same. The form is somewhat dis-
torted by pressure.
Loc. Missouri River, above Weston.
CHONETES VARIOLATA, (D’Orb. sp.) De Koninck.
Puate III. Fic. lab.
This species bears the essential characteristics of those figured
and described by De Koninck, though it is larger than most of his
figures. The broad, scarcely defined mesial depression of the
dorsal valve gives a straight-or slightly sinuous outline in front.
This fossil is associated with several of the preceding species,
near Weston on the Missouri River.
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APPENDIX E.—PALAONTOLOGY. 411
PRODUCTUS COSTATUS?
Prate III. Fie. 2.
Reference, De Koninck, Recherches sur les Animaux Fossils, premitre partie,
page 92, pl. VIIL., fig. 3.
The specimen figured is apparently a young individual of this
species, in a bad state of preservation. The species is also cited
by De K., from the Missouri River, from whence the specimen
figured was obtained. Some other fragments. from the Platte
River appear to belong to the same species.
PRODUCTUS SEMIRETICULATUS.
Prats III. Fig. 3, 5 a and 5 b.
Reference, De Koninck, Recherches sur les Animaux Fossils, premiére partie,
page 83, pl. VIIL., IX., and X.
I refer, with some hesitation, the specimens here figured, to this
very variable species. One or two of the specimens are very
narrow and much elongated; the striz are flexuous, sometimes
preserving the bases of numerous spines, and at other times
entirely free from these appendages. Other specimens are pro-
portionally shorter and broader, and present the usual form of this
species, though none of them are larger than those figured.
The specimens are all in limestone of a dark gray or brownish-
gray colour, from near Fort Laramie. Some impressions of the
same or a similar species occur in limestone from Flat-rock Point,
and other places in the neighbourhood of the Great Salt Lake.
PRopuctus ———— (sp. indet.)
PuateE ITI. Fie. 4.
This species bears considerable resemblance to P. costatus, in
the aspect and marking of its surface, but its form is quite different.
It occurs on the Missouri River, near Weston, associated with
Ferebratulz and other species of Productus, Spirifer, Kc.
A species of Productus resembling P. punctatus in the character
of its surface, occurs on the Big Blue River, in soft shaly limestone ;
but the specimens are too imperfect for determination. The
occurrence of this and other species, shows the existence of car-
boniferous strata at several points after leaving the Missouri River,
and, in some instances, after crossing tracts of country that are
probably of cretaceous beds.
412 APPENDIX E.—PALZONTOLOGY.
ORTHIS UMBRACULUM?
Prate III. Fra. 6.
The specimen corresponds with one from the carboniferous rocks
of Kentucky and Tennessee, which is referred to this species. It
is however somewhat distorted by pressure, and other specimens
are necessary for a full determination.
Loc. Missouri River, above Fort Leavenworth.
ACEPHALA. :
AVICULA? CUSTA.
Puate IV. Fig. 1 a b.
Shell obliquely ovoid; hinge line much shorter than the width
of the shell; beaks prominent, and the upper part of the shell
gibbous; surface marked by fine even striz.
This shell occurs, with a few other fossils, in thinly laminated
gray sandstone, which, judging from the notes of observation, lies
below the limestone of Fort Laramie.
TELLINOMYA PROTENSA, Hall, (n. sp.)
PuaTE IV. Fie. 3.
Shell elongate-oval; beaks placed about one-third the width of
the shell from the anterior extremity, somewhat pointed; surface
marked by fine concentric striz and some stronger lines of growth.
Loc. near Le Bonte, with the preceding species.
CYPRICARDIA OCCIDENTALIS.
Puate IV. Fie. 2.
Shell rhomboid-ovate; anterior extremity rounded; posterior
obliquely truncate; posterior slope with a distinct carina extend-
ing from the back to the posterior basal margin; beak near the
anterior extremity; surface marked by concentric striz and some
more elevated ridges or lines of growth.
This species occurs in a gray argillaceous limestone, associated
with Productus, Chonetes, ete.
Loc. from the Big Blue River.
379 Broadway NY.
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APPENDIX E.—PALAONTOLOGY. 413
ALLORISMA TERMINALIS, Hall, (n. sp.)
Puate IV. Fie. 4 ab.
Shell elongate-ovoid, with the posterior extremity extended and
sub-acute; beaks anterior, or in a line with the anterior extremity
of the shell; surface marked by strong concentric ridges, which,
diverging from the beak, are more prominent on the central portion
of the shell, and gradually die out on the cardinal line. The shell
is also quite smooth toward the basal margin, with the exception
of the rather coarse concentric strive which cover the entire surface.
Fig. 4 a, view of the left valve.
Fig. 4 b, anterior view of the shell.
Loc. from the Big Blue River.
Nucuna Arata, Hall, (n. sp.)
Puate IV. Fia. 5 a b.
Shell oval-ovate, rounded before, and gradually narrowing be-
hind the beaks (posterior extremity broken off); beaks prominent,
closely incurved; posterior lunule elongated and distinctly de-
fined; surface marked by distinct (rather sharp where unworn)
equal concentric ridges, scarcely so wide as the furrows between
them. The ridges, when seen in a longitudinal direction, have an
imbricated appearance.
Fig. 5 a, the right valve, showing the anterior extremity broken
off.
Fig. 5 b, a cardinal view, showing the beaks and defined pos-
terior lunule.
This beautiful species occurs with Terebratula, Spirifer, and
Productus, in a decomposing limestone, on the east side of the
Missouri River, below Weston.
GASTEROPODA.
PLEUROTOMARIA CORONULA, Hall, (un. sp.)
Prate IV. Fie. 6a bed.
Depressed trochiform, volutions about five, angular, slightly
convex on the upper side, and sloping almost uniformly from the
suture to the margin; lower surface more rounded; aperture sub-
quadrangular; striz bent abruptly backward on the acute outer
414 APPENDIX E.—PALZONTOLOGY.
edge of the last volution, which has scarcely a distinct carina;
upper margin of the volutions, along the suture, marked by an
elevated nodulose ridge, giving a beautiful coronate feature to the
upper part of the shell. Umbilicus, none.
Fig. 6 a, view of the upper surface of the shell.
Fig. 6 b, view of the aperture, which is imperfect.
Fig. 6 ¢, anterior view of the shell.
Fig. 6 d, base of the shell.
This beautiful species was found with other carboniferous fossils.
EUOMPHALUS SUBPLANUS, Hall. (n. sp.)
PraTE IV. Fig. 7 a b.
Spiral, convolute; volutions about five, in contact, round, or
very obtusely sub-angular on the upper outer margin of old speci-
mens, surface evenly striated.
In young specimens the apex is depressed, but in the specimen
figured it is slightly above the outer volution. The specimen fig.
7 b is the under side of a cast of an individual of apparently the
same species, the absence of the shell leaving the volutions not in
contact.
Fig. T a, view of the upper side of a specimen from limestone
on the top of Stansbury’s Island, Great Salt Lake.
Fig. 7 b, a cast in limestone from between the Big and Little
Blue Rivers.
APPENDIX F.
LETTER FROM L. D. GALE,
WITH
A CHEMICAL ANALYSIS OF THE WATER OF THE GREAT SALT LAKE,
AND OTHER MINERAL WATERS AND SALINE SUBSTANCES,
COLLECTED DURING THE JOURNEY.
a
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APPENDIX F.
CHEMICAL ANALYSES, &c
BY DR. L. D. GALE.
ee
Sir:—I have carefully examined the specimens of water, and
earthy and saline compounds, from the Valley of the Great Salt
Lake, which you put into my hands for chemical analysis, and I
herewith report the results.
I have inspected and tested all the specimens, and made:a de-
tailed analysis of such only as I deemed might be of some
interest to know. ‘Thus, the water of the Great Salt Lake, that
of the Hot Spring, the Warm Spring, and the native saleratus,
are all more or less important to the public.
The first of these is perhaps the most important of all. The
water of this lake must vary considerably in its strength at different
seasons of the year. It is important, hence, in stating the strength
of the water to state the time when the water experimented on was
collected. That fact, so far as it relates to these experiments,
will be found, it is presumed, in the body of the work.
The specimens examined contain full twenty per cent. of pure chlo-
ride of sodium, and not more than two per cent. of other salts, and is
one of the purest and most concentrated brines known in the world.
The strongest brine reported by Professor Beck, on the salines
of the State of New York, is that of the new well at Syracuse,
containing 17.35 per cent. of chloride of sodium.—The water of
the Warm Spring is a sulphurous water, strongly impregnated
with sulphuretted hydrogen, and has medicinal virtues that may
render it valuable.
The native saleratus from Mud Plain, as well as that from the
banks of the Sweetwater, is a valuable domestic salt.
Before stating the results of the analyses made, it is proper to
say that the quantity of water from the several sources was too
small to enable me to make so critical an analysis as I otherwise
27 417
418 APPENDIX F.—CHEMICAL ANALYSES.
would have done.—That from the Salt Lake being not more than
about two quarts, and that from the Warm Spring a little more
than half a pint, while that from the Hot Spring was about a pint
and a-half. I was compelled, therefore, to use the greatest possible
economy in the materials, and to confine my attention to the most
common materials generally found in salines. Besides this, I was
also obliged to confine myself mainly to the liquid contents of the
vessels, and neglect, except in one case, (namely, the water of the
Warm Spring,) the gaseous matters, and that in consequence of
the sealing of the bottles having been loosened by the severe agi-
tation in travelling, so that more or less of the contents of each
vessel had escaped before they arrived in this city. It was there-
fore useless to make any experiments on the supposed gaseous
matters as they may have existed at the sources.
The great importance of the waters of Great Salt Lake rendered
it justifiable, in my view, to make some experiments of a practical
character relative to the procuring from it of a good quality of
salt, even better than that usually found in this section of country,
and by which it seems to me the water may be a source of revenue
and convenience.
As will be seen in the detailed analysis below, the salt water
yields about twenty per cent. of pure common salt, and about two
per cent. of foreign salts; most of the objectionable parts of which
are the chloride of lime and the chloride of magnesia, both of
which, being very deliquescent, attract moisture from the damp
atmosphere, which has the effect to moisten and partially dissolve
the common salt, and then when the mass is exposed to dry air,
or heat, or both, a hard crust-is formed. I believe I have found
a remedy for the caking, which is cheap and easily used. It con-
sists in sprinkling over the salt obtained by the evaporation of the
water and heaped up in a bin or box containing a porous bottom
of blankets or other like material, a cold solution of the salt as it
is concentrated from the lake, till crystals begin to be deposited.
This concentrated brine, while it will dissolve none of the common
salt, will dissolve all the chlorides of calcium and magnesium, and
carry them down through the porous bottom, and thus leave the
salt purer and better than any now found in our markets. For
persons who are obliged to prepare temporarily the salt, as travel-
lers passing through the country, the water of the lake, without
concentration, may be used for washing out the deliquescent chlo-
rides, sprinkling the heap of salt by a watering pot, at intervals
APPENDIX F.—CHEMICAL ANALYSES. 419
of two or three hours during a single day, and allowing it to drain
and dry at night, and be spread to the sun an hour or two the
following morning.
This experiment is successful on a small scale, and will no doubt
admit of extended application.
The water of the lake examined was perfectly clear, and had
the specific gravity of 1.170, water being 1.000.
One hundred parts by weight were evaporated to dryness in a
water-bath below the boiling point, and then heated to about three
hundred degrees of the thermometer, and retained at that heat till
the mass ceased to lose any weight. It gave solid contents
22.422, and consisted of
PEERAGE SOON cx cnicica sind ipaaeigse seme tdsiseyvan destes(varanedscs 20.196
SEU EAU OE SO, oncon cas trace nae ces icninnes soso tesiseuee pes eseceoaas 1.834
OMIOrIGe Of MA SNESIUM hx caeaacneaca dec tonddetecvtestrseveds- set 0.252
RO RierT rol | COPCTUM cise cinns seas saincoceacselee need yscadoyemens 0. trace.
The water of the Warm Spring of Salt Lake City is a Harrow-
gate water, abounding in sulphur. The water is very limpid,
having a strong smell of sulphuretted hydrogen, and contains the
gas both absorbed in the water and also combined with bases.
The specific gravity of the water I found to be 1.0112, and,
when opened, was highly charged with gas, although the cork had
allowed much of the gas, and water even, to escape.
One hundred parts of the water were evaporated to dryness at
a temperature of about 200° of Fahrenheit, and yielded solid
matter 1.082000.
The heat necessary for this also carried off sulphuretted hydrogen
per cent. 0.087454.
One hundred parts of the water gave an analysis of the following
results :—
Sulphuretted hydrogen absorbed in the water..............++ 0.037454
ge iM combined with bases*.........ssseseee 0.090728
Carbonate of lime, precipitated by boiling............sssse000 0.075000
Carbonate of magnesia, ‘‘ SERN ey corse aca wnceaee 0.022770
Chloride of calcium .........cs.cseescccenencenccctesceteccas oeseeeses 0.005700
Sulphate of Soda .......scseeesecceesveeeeese cesses eens sa eeeeeeaveneeens 0.064835
Chloride of SOdiUM.........s.sescceececee serececneescsesseneneaeeseeans 0.816600
1.023087
* Probably combined with some of the bases and decomposed by the heat used
to separate the water in solidifying the contents, as the gas could hardly be de-
tected when the contents were dried.
420 APPENDIX F.—CHEMICAL ANALYSES.
The water of the Hot Spring was found to have the specific
gravity of 1.0130, and one hundred parts yielded solid contents
1.1454.
Chioride of SOG. is <scc:sainsins snae cea caeds yen ddkgse bi eenenn ee ee 0.8052
Chloride Of magneRitii.. scan scsn sc .dencesacteesninsponpeecbupnangeeenen 0.0288
CFRIOFIGG GL GORCTIMIS. 5, 5 cece oncuacuce coasse verweudce meas castene nace 0.1096
Dulphate Of Pass 1.0 ieinepet vices sleet edie.) Gecucns ce. <deues carat oP 0.0806
Carbonnte of limes ach 63a. Fe kis he Sh eee 0.0180
PARTBGIE Satie b sikistg do midid ils wannabes «cman wh le eaves deepak Oe 0.0180
1.0602
NATIVE SALZRATUS AND ALUM.
The specimen labelled Efflorescence from a Saleratus Pond, on
the Sweetwater River, has been tested, and found to be composed
of the sesquicarbonate of soda, mixed with sulphate of soda and
chloride of sodium, and is one of the native salts called Trona,
found in the Natron Lakes in Hungary, Africa, and other countries.
Three grammes of this salt in dry powder, cleared of its earthy
impurities, gave carbonic acid 0.9030 of a gramme, which would
indicate 1.73239 grammes of the sesquicarbonate. The other salts
were found to be the muriate and sulphate of soda: the proportions
were not determined.
The specimen of alum from Alum Point, Great Salt Lake, is a
rare and interesting mineral. It is a true alum; but instead of
being an alum with an alkaline base, as potash or soda alum, it is
found to be an alum with a base of manganese, differing from all
other true alums in crystallizing in needle-shaped quadrilateral (?)
prisms. It is soluble in several times its weight of water. It has
the taste of ordinary alum, though less strong, from the fact, per-
haps, that it is less soluble.
The mineral is an effloresced mass, found on the surface of a slate
-rock abounding with a sulphuret (as is believed) of manganese, from
the decomposition of which the sulphur, being oxidized, is converted
into sulphuric acid, and combining directly with the base, manga-
nese and the alumina of the slate, forms the alum in question.
The specimen, as it reached me, had lost nearly all of its water
of crystallization; and, in order to make.a fair analysis of it as a
specific salt, a portion of the specimen was dissolved in water and
recrystallized, and the crystals dried to the first appearance of
efflorescence on the projecting points, and then a given weight of
4
APPENDIX F.—CHEMICAL ANALYSES. 421
the crystals was heated to drive off the water of crystallization.
Having previously learned that it was an alum, with the double
base of manganese and alumina, I made a careful analysis and ob-
tained the following result from the salt dried by blotting paper :—
100 grammes of the freshly crystallized salt gave—
Tae ee iinSina'«cniricasinal casa vacant asic tenlepieuasien ve seas some Cuamioctaenm a Maer tates 73.0
etenyxide OF MAAN PONEB) casi cis's/tnadsonawhoase vactwnnedsncsacbeidanuasacs> 08.9
MBE MAUR iene corn vaaschicna once aeninienids do aialnsuaiaua dascisvas deietinlenamaeiaaa peice ane 04.0
AUG DCAM cwnonn acne nas saskanescansinsainveg hence nate sdenaiaas <nusenss 18.0
It is not easy to explain the relation of the acid to the two bases
here in accordance with the usual constitution of alums, as there
does not seem to be enough acid for the supply of an equivalent to
each base, nor of alumina for the manganese. But as I have not
the time to repeat my experiments, they must stand for what they
are worth. |
This salt may be substituted for common alum in nearly all its
various uses for tanning, in combination with the salt brine of the
Great Salt Lake, in what is called the process of tawing; and
where tan bark is difficult to obtain, it is a valuable acquisition to
the arts. And should the locality of alum at any time give out
from exhaustion, the rock may be blasted and the alum made by
artificial means, as the alum slates of England are worked.
The manganese alum is also susceptible of various uses as a
mordant and a colouring agent in dyeing, where it is not only a
substitute for common alum, but subserves other and additional
purposes of communicating various tints of fancy colours to shades
of red, brown, &c. Thus we have purples, lilacs, browns, and
many other tints, from the use of manganese.
For details in this art, see Parnell’s Applied Chemistry—Calico-
printing.
| Yours truly,
L. D. GALE.
Howarp Sransspury, Hsq.
Captain Corps of Topographical Engineers, U. S. Army.
Wasuineton, March 25, 1851.
APPENDIX G.
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APPENDIX G.
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434
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468
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APPENDIX G.
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474
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476
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METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS.
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APPENDIX G.
478
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ALPHABETICAL INDEX.
The asterisks indicate the page of the appendices where the locality or object is
especially referred to.
A
Abronia mellifera, 395*.
- Accident, 266.
Accipiter fuscus, 314*.
Acephala, 412*.
Acerates decumbens, 394*.
Achillea millefolium, 3891*.
Actiturus bartramius, 3826*.
Adobe Hall, 300*.
Agelaius xanthocephalus, 326%.
Agonum erythropum, 374*.
Agropyrum repens, 397*.
Allium stellatum, 397*.
‘© reticulatum, 397*.
Allorisma terminalis, 413*.
Aloe, 82.
- Amblirion pudicum, 396%.
Ambrosia coronopifolia, 389%.
Ameiva tesselata, 338%.
American Creek, 294*.
American Fork, 215.
Ammophila aberti, 368%.
Amorpha, 25, 26, 27, 34.
Amsinckia lycopsoides, 393*.
Anabrus simplex, 372%.
Anas boschas, 322*.
Ancient beach line of Salt Lake, 158, 160.
Ancient Lake, 230.
Anemone pennsylvanica, 383*.
Anser canadensis, 321.*
«¢ erythropus, 321*.
Antelope, 28, 50, 82, 105, 205, 237, 238.
Antelope Island, 157.
Aph Creek, 294*.
Aphodius strigatus, 375*.
Arctomys ludoviciana, 37.
Argemone hispida, 383%.
Areoda lanigera, 375*.
Artemisia, 25, 26, 27, 30, 92.
a canadensis, 391*.
Artemisia ludoviciana, 391*.
frigida, 391*.
ae tridentata, 391*.
Arthrocnemum fruticosum, 394*.
Ash Creek, 40.
Ash Hollow, 272*, 289*, 301*.
Aspen Creek, 285*.
Aster oblongifolius, 389%.
Astragalus, 102.
i adsurgens, 385*.
Athene hypugea, 314*.
Atmosphere, dryness of, 72.
Avicula, 58.
Avicula custa, 412*.
Avoset, 320%.
Avoset, white-headed, 326%.
B
Badeau’s Post, 288*.
Badger, 311*.
Barometer, breaking of, 59.
Basalt, 107.
Base line of survey, 121.
Bauchmin’s Creek, 217—276*, 278%.
Beaches, ancient, 105.
Bear, 237.
Bear River, 77, 78, 94, 276%, 280*, 293.
Bear River Bay, 165.
Beaver, 82, 241.
Belostoma, 370*.
Berberis aquifolium, 383%.
Big Blue River, 20, 271*, 291*.
Big Horn, 312%.
Big Kanyon Creek, 217, 277*
Big Sandy River, 27.
Big Vermilion River, 20.
Birds collected, 314.
Birds collected by Lt. Abert, 825%.
Birds of N. America, not described in
Audubon, List of, 327.
479
480
Bishop Crosly’s, 294*.
Bitter Creek, 55, 234, 273*.
Bittern, 320*.
Bitumen, 176.
Black Flies, 205.
Black’s Fork, 74, 228, 276*, 281,* 300*.
Black Rock, 118, 169, 297*.
Blacksmith’s Fork, 94.
Bluebird, long-winged, 314*.
Blackbird, yellow-headed, 326*.
Blue Heron, 160.
Boat, construction of, 150.
Boats, their novelty to the Indians, 174.
Bonneville, Col. 30.
Botany, 383.
Botaurus lentiginosus, 320*.
Boudin, 35.
Boulders, 101.
Boulders of granite, 19, 91, 96, 164.
Bowery, 130.
Box-elder Creek, 96, 214, 293*.
Brachiopoda, 409*,
Bridger’s Fork, 238.
Bright Creek, 284;
Brown’s settlement, 83.
Buffalo, 33, 34, 36, 287, 238, 247.
Buffalo berry, 233.
Bull boats, 214.
Burrowing owl, 37.
Buteo borealis, 314*.
Butte Creek, 285*.
C
Cache Cave, 225, 280*.
Cache Valley, 80, 94.
Cactus, 34.
Calamites, 403.
Callipepla gambeli, 326*.
- squamata, 326*,
es venusta, 326%.
Callirrhoe involucrata, 384*.
Calochortus luteus, 160, 208, 397*.
Calosoma scrutator, 373.*
Camass prairie, 219, 225.
Cantonment Loring, 93, 293%.
Capote des acarte, 175.
Carabus finitimus, 373*.
Carboniferous limestone, 15.
Carcajou, 311*.
Carbonate of Soda, 62, 67.
Cardinia, 58.
Carrington, Albert, Esq., 122.
Carrington Island, 297*.
Castilleja hispida, 392*.
a miniata, 392*.
a sessiliflora, 892*.
Castle Island, 159.
Catfish, 22, 23.
ALPHABETICAL INDEX.
Cave, 202.
Cedars, 239.
Cedar City, 142.
Cedar Grove, 294*,
Cedar Trees, 210.
Cerasphorus garganicus, 378*.
Charadrius vociferus, 319*,
Chemical analyses, 417*.
Chenactis, 210.
Chenactis stevioides, 390*.
ee achillezfolia, 390*.
Chenopodina linearis, 394*.
Cherry Creek, 274*.
Cheyennes,. 259.
Cheyenne Pass, 300*.
Chicken Cock Bluff, 224, 279*, 300*.
Chimney Rock, 48, 51.
Chironomus, 379*.
Chleenius sericeus, 374*.
vd vicinus, 374*,
Cholera, 14, 15.
Cholera among the Sioux, 48, 45.
Cholera in the party, 55.
Chonetes variolata, 410*.
Chronometers, rate of, 801*.
se most suitable kinds, 301.
Chugwater Creek, 266.
Chugwater River, 287*, 300*.
Churchillia bellona, 350*.
Cicada rej, 369*.
‘¢ rimosa, 870*.
‘< striatipes, 369*.
Cicer arietinum, 385*.
Cicindela auduboni, 373*.
Circulating medium of Utah, 133.
Cirsium undulatum, 391*.
Civil government of the Mormons, 182.
Clangula albeola, 324*,
Clematis ligusticefolia, 383*.
Cleome lutea, 208, 384.
Clymus striatus, 397*. ;
Clytus irroratus, 378%.
‘¢ flexuosus, 378%.
Cnemidophorus tigris 338*.
Coal, 16, 116, 225, 236, 241, 246.
Coal Basin, 300*.
Coal-bed, Bitter Creek, 282*.
Cock of the Plains, 319*.
Cold Springs, 218.
Coleoptera, 873*.
Collomia linearis, 393*.
Coluber eximius, 351*.
‘¢ mormon, 361%.
Columba leucoptera, 326*.
Columbia River, 92.
Colymbus glacialis, 824*.
Comandra umbellata, 209, 394*.
Commelina, 26, 27.
Communism not existing among the
Mormons, 134.
ALPHABETICAL INDEX.
Conflicts with the Utahs, 149.
Constitution Hill, 297*.
Convention to form a constitution, 127.
Cophosaurus, 341*.
Copperas Spring, 227, 281*, 300%.
Corals, 407*.
Cormorants, 161, 207, 324*.
Corralling, 16.
Corydalis aurea, 383%.
Cotalpa granicollis, 374%.
Cotton-wood, 107.
Cotton-wood Creek, 294*.
Cotton-wood Trees, 244, 245.
‘Court House,” 48.
Cowania, 210.
Cowania stansburiana, 386%.
Crane, Brown, 319*.
Crepis acuminata, 392*.
Crotaphytus, 339*.
Crotaphytus wislizenii, 340*.
“ collaris, 340.
Crow Creek, 259, 286, 301*.
Curlew, long-billed, 320*.
Currant bushes, 236.
Cyathophyllidex, 407*.
Cyathophyllum, 1738, 196, 211.
Cygnus americanus, 321*.
Cynthia cardui, 366*.
Cypricardia occidentalis, 412*.
Cystiphyllum, 211.
D
Dafila acuta, 323%.
Diczlus splendidus, 878*.
Dieteria pulverulenta, 389*.
Difficulties of surveying the Lake, 187.
Digitalis, 23, 50.
Disappointment Island, 159.
Dividing ridge between Forks of the
Platte, 40.
Dividing ridge of Atlantic and Pacific,
241.
Dividing ridge of Platte, 28.
Deer Creek, 61, 274%.
Deilephila lineata, 366%.
Delphinium azureum, 383*.
Density of Salt Lake water, 212.
Deseret, 127.
Deserters, capture of, 69.
Devil’s Gate, 65, 274*.
Dogs, as beasts of burden among the
Indians, 47.
Dolphin Island, 191, 297%.
Dove, white-winged, 326%.
Drift-wood, 101, 218.
Dry Cotton-wood Creek, 215.
Dry Creek, 48, 294*.
Dry Sandy Creek, 71, 291*.
31
481
Duchesne’s Pass, 219.
Duck, Black-head, 324*,
Duck, Bald-pate, 322.
Duck, Butter-ball, 324*.
Duck, Sprig-tail, 823%.
AD)
Early history of Great Salt Lake, 151.
Earthquake, 150.
Echinospermum floribundum, 393*
Echo Creek, 224.
Egg Island, 206.
Kighteen-mile Point, 290*.
Elaphidion marilandicum, 378%.
Elder Creek, 274%, 289*.
Eleodes cognata, 386*.
cc obscimma.ie/ Ge
Elgaria scincicauda, 348*.
Elk, 50.
Elk mountains, 238.
Elymus, 209.
Emigrants, 14, 18, 21,.24, 41, 44, 223,
230.
Emigrant’s Creek, 26.
Emigrants, destruction and abandon:
ment of their property by, 55, 57,
60, 68, 67, 112, 118.
Emigrant graves, 227.
Emigration Creek, 277*.
Encrinites, 16, 39, 42.
Ephedra americana, 395%.
Ephippigera trivavensis, 371*.
Equisetum, 111.
Erigeron coccineum, 389%.
Erigonum umbellatum, 394*,
a fremontii, 394%.
Eriocoma cuspidata, 397%.
Eritrichium glomeratum, 392*.
Ermine, 311*.
Erodium cicutarium, 388%.
Erysimum asperum, 383%,
Erythronium grandiflorum, 397%,
Euomphalus subplanus, 414*.
Euphoria cernii, 374*.
Eutoca heterophylla, 393%.
Evans’s Trace, 284*.
i)
Falco sparverius, 325*.
Faphrentis multilamellata, 408*.
&é stansburii, 408*.
Faviphyllum rugosum, 407*.
Favosites, 211.
Fenestella, 211.
Ferry on North Fork of Platte, 60,
Fiber zibethicus, 311*.
482 ALPHABETICAL INDEX.
Finch, gray-crowned, 317*.
Finch, Lincoln’s, 317*.
Fish in Warm Springs, 117.
Flat-head Indians, 214.
Flat-rock Point, 172.
Flowers on the prairie, 28.
Fort Bridger, 74, 228, 276*, 281*, 800%.
fort Hall, 93.
Fort John, 53.
Fort Kearny, 30, 272, 290*, 301*.
Fort Laramie, 52, 273*, 288*, 301*.
Fort Leavenworth, 270, 292, 301*.
| Fossils,’ 32, 34, 35, 56, 58, 60, 61, 68,
74, 89, 91, 116, 196, 211.
Fossil bones, 33, 34, 39, 402.
Fossils described, 407.
Fossil plants, 62, 72, 73.
Fossil trees, 72.
Fourche Boise River, 274*.
Fourth of July, celebration of, 42.
Fox, great-tailed, 309*.
Frappe’s Creek, 250, 285*, 300*.
Frémont Island, 160, 297.
Fresh water on Salt Lake, 1738, 178, 184.
Froximon cuspidatum, 392*.
Fuligula affinis, 824*.
G
Gasteropoda, 413%.
Gayophytum ramosissimum, 387*.
Gentiana affinis, 394*.
Geographical positions, table of, 300*.
Geology, 38, 69, 71, 75, 78, 79, 83, 89,
90, 96, 103, 111, 1138, 159, 168, 228,
230, 232, 234, 244.
Geology of the route described, 401*.
Gilia pulchella, 393*.
Gnats, annoyance from, 174, 176, 190.
Golden Pass, 218, 278%.
Goose Creek, 89.
Goose, Canada, 321*.
Goose, white-fronted, 321*.
Government train, 28.
Grand Island, 29.
Grayia polygonoides, 394*.
Grayia spinosa, 209.
Grease-wood, 172.
Grease-wood Creek, 274*.
Great Basin, 227, 264.
Great Salt Lake, 101.
Great Salt Lake City, 84, 277*, 278*.
Green River, 72, 276*, 282%.
Grindelia squarrosa, 389*.
Gros Bois Creek, 94.
Grus canadensis, 319*.
Gulls, 102, 179, 188, 191,205, 206.
Gulls’ eggs, 197.
‘Gulo luscus, 311*.
Gunnison’s Island, 197, 297*.
Gypsum, 2438, 246.
H
Ham’s Fork, 74, 231, 276%. '
Hastings’s Cut-off, 112.
Hat Island, 204.
Hawk, sharp shinned, 314*.
Hawk, red-tailed, 314*.
Hedspeth’s Cut-off, 293*.
Hedysarum mackenzii, 385*.
Hemiptera, 369%.
Henous techanus, 377*.
Heterodon nasicus, 852*.
a platyrhinos, 353*.
6 simus, 853%,
Heuchera, 210.
Heuchera rubescens, 388*.
High Fork, 94.
Hill Creek, 281*.
Holbrookia, 840*.
Holbrookia maculata 342*, 308.
Hordeum jubatum, 397%.
Horia stansburii, 377*.
Horned Frogs, 178.
Horned Frogs, monograph of, 354,
Horse Creek, 273*, 287%.
Horse-shoe Creek, 56, 273%.
Horses stolen by Indians, 22. .
Hot Springs, 213, 215, 293*, 294%.
Hot Spring water, analysis of, 420*.
Hydrochus foveatus, 375*.
Hydrophyllum capitatum, 393*.
Hymenoptera, 867%.
Hypoxis erecta, 397*. —
I
Independence Creek, 292*.
Independence Rock, 65.
Indians, 100, 103, 107, 251.
Indians, alarm of, 26.
Indian burial lodge, 40, 42.
Indian camp, 46.
Indian Creek, 270*.
Indian lodges, 111, 181.
Indian pottery, 182.
Indian Springs, 185, 192.
Indian traces, 244, 245, 248.
Inoceramus, 402.
Insects described, 366*.
J
Jealousy of the Mormons, 85.
Jordan River, 141, 156.
ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 483
Jordan, valley of, 128.
Juncus balticus, 397*.
K
Kansas Branch, 270.
Kanyon Creek, 294*,
Ketcham’s Creek, 23, 271*.
Killdeer, 319%.
Keeleria cristata, 397.
L
Labidus harrisii, 367*.
‘¢ melshemeri, 368*.
Labidus saji, 367*.
La Bonté Creek, 58.
La Bonté River, 273*.
La Hontan’s knowledge of Great Salt
Lake, 151.
Lake Fork, 286%.
Language of signs, 254.
La Préle River, 59, 2738*.
Laramie Fork, 286*.
Laramie Peak, 250.
Laramie Plains, 300*.
Laramie River, 252.
Lark, Western, 316%.
Larve of insects, 164, 177, 379*.
Latitudes and longitudes in Salt Lake
Valley, 297%.
Lava, 163.
Lawrence’s Fork, 48.
Layia glandulosa, 391*.
Legerette Creek, 19.
Lepidoptera, 366*.
Leucosticte tephrocotis, 307, 317%.
Lewis’s Fork, 92.
Lias, 78.
Lima, 211.
Lignite, 49, 234.
Limestone, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 176.
Limestone, carboniferous, 15.
Linosyris serrulata, 389%.
Lithospermum circumscissum, 393*.
Lithostrontion, 408*.
Little Blue River, 271*, 291*, 301*.
Little Sandy Creek, 72.
Little Snake River, 300*.
Loasa nitida, 23.
Locust, 3871.
Lodge-pole Branch, 287*.
Lodge-pole Creek, 251, 260, 301*.
Logan’s Fork, 94.
Loon, 324*.
Loyalty of the Mormons, 144.
Lupinus albicaulis, 386%.
Lygodesmia juncea, 391*
M
Malacothrix, 209.
Malacothrix sonchoides, 892*.!
Malade River, 88, 98.
Mallard, 322%,
Malvastrum coccineum, 208, 384*.
Misc Us collected, 309%,
“ by Lt. Abert, 313*.
Maple Creek, 293*,
Marble, 172, 174.
Mareca americana, 322%,
Marsh Creek, 294*,
Mauvaise Terre, 234.
Medicine-bow Mountain, 300*.
Medicine-bow River, 285*,
Medicine Butte, 77.
Megaderus corallipes, 378*.
Meles labradoria, 311*.
Meloe parvus, 377%.
Melolontha decemlineata, 375*.
Melops constrictus, 374*.
Mentzelia ornata, 587*.
$6 albicaulis, 388%.
Mertensia drummondii, 398*. |
Metamorphic rocks, 79.
Meteorological observations, 423.
Military post, eligible site for, 95.
Miller’s settlement, 215.
Mink, 130, 311*.
Mirage, 101, 119, 184.
Mocking birds, 205.
Monothrix stansburiana, 389*,
Monotis, 403.
Morin’s Fork, 279*.
Mormons, 139.
Mormon battalion, 125.
Mormons, obligations to, 217.
Morin’s Creek, 222.
Mouna Creek, 294%.
Mountain sheep, 312*.
Mud cakes, 164.
Muddy Creek, 238.
Muddy Fork of Green River, 77.
Mud Island, 168, 297%.
Mule killed by a snake, 70.
Muskrat, 28, 311*.
N
Nautilus, 404.
Nebraska, 40.
Necrophorus obscurus, 376%.
Needle Creek, 226,
Needles, the, 280*.
Neemaha, 270*.
Nemaha, 292*.
Nemahaw River, 23,
a
484 ALPHABETICAL INDEX.
Niphoea oregona, 316*.
Nitrate of soda, 62.
Noche, 175.
North Fork of Platte, 243.
North Platte River, 301*.
Nucula arata, 413*.
Numenius longirostris, 320*.
Nyctobatus intermedia, 376*.
O
Oak grove, 291*.
Obione canescens, 395*.
‘“< confertiflora, 395*.
(Edipoda corallipes, 371*.
CEnothera, 23, 25, 27, 32, 48.
(Enothera albicaulis, 387*.
ee cxspitosa, 287*,
- hispida, 68.
- scapoidea, 387*.
Ogallalah Sioux, 253.
Ogden City, 126, 214.
Ogden’s Creek, 81.
Ogden’s Hole, 78.
Ogden’s Pass, 293*,
Ogden River, 214.
Ona-pah Creek, 294*.
Oolitic limestone, 113.
Oquirrh Mountain, 141.
Orthis, 196.
Orthis umbraculum, 412*.
Orthoptera, 371*.
Otocoris occidentalis, 318.
Ovis montana, 312*.
Owl, burrowing, 314*.
Ox-bow Creek, 291*.
Oxen poisoned by water, 63.
Oxytropis lamberti, 385*.
Er
Pacific Creek, 275*.
Pacific Springs, 70, 275*.
Pah Utes, 148.
Palzontology of the expedition, 407.
Panageus distinctus, 373*.
< caliginosus, 373*.
Pannack, 293*.
Pannack River, 87.
Papilio asterias, 566%.
Park Mountains, 239, 342.
Parley’s Park, 300*.
Partridge, Blue, 326%.
5 Scaly, 326*.
Parus septentrionalis, 316*.
Pass Creek, 285*.
| Paysan City, 142.
' Pelecanus trachyrrhynchus, 324*.
Pelicans, 117, 179, 183, 188, 191, 193,
195, 206, 324*.,
Pelidnota tripunctata, 375*.
Pentstemon grandiforum, 392*.
Pequinnetty Creek, 294*,
Peretyle, 210,
Perthostoma, 370.
Petenete Creek, 294*,
Petroleum, 226.
Peucea lincolnlii, 317*.
Peucedanum citernatum, 889*.
Phaca mollissima, var. utahensis, 385*.
Phalacrocorax dilophus, 324*,
Phalangopsis, 378*.
Philonthus comptus, 375*.
Phlox, 23.
Phlox hoodii, 394*.
Phlox longifolia, 3894*,
Pholadomya, 402.
Phrynosoma, monograph of, 354.
“ cornutum, 360*.
e coronatum, 360*.
2% douglassii, 8361*, 362*.
ee modestum, 361*, 362%.
- orbiculare, 359*.
= platyrhinos, 361*, 362%.
Physalis lanceolata, 394*.
Physaria didymocarpa, 384*, .
Picus torquatus, 319%.
‘¢ varius, 326%,
Pieris protodice, 366*.
Pilot Butte, 231.
Pilot Peak, 111.
Pimquan Creek, 294*,
Pifion, 111.
Pipilo aberti, 325%.
Plan of Salt Lake City, 128.
Plants, 68.
Plants described, 383*.
Platte Ferry, 274*.
Platte Ford, 284*,
Platte, Forks of, 33.
Platte River, 272*, 289*,
Pleasant Creek, 294*.
Plestiodon skiltonianum, 349*,
Pleurotomaria coronula, 413%.
Plochionus timidus, 373%.
Plover, 17, 27.
Plover, Field, 326%.
Pecilus scitulus, 374%.
Polygamy among the Mormons, 136.
Polygonatum canaliculatum, 396*.
Pomont Creek, 215.
Port Neuf, 87.
Port Neuf River, 273%.
Prairie-dog village, 37.
Prairie hens, 17.
Prairie squirrel, 312%.
Préle, 27.
G
SB
ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 485
Preservative qualitiés of the water of
Salt Lake, 171. S
Proctrotretus, 341*.
Productus, 16, 19, 401. Sabbath, importance in travyelli
Productus costatus, 411*. day of ie 99. BA
Productus semi-reticulatus, 54, 411*. Sage, 160.
Promontory Point, 169, 172, 297*. Sage Cock, 319*.
Provaux City, 142. Sage Creek, 242, 300%.
Provaux River, 219, 225. Sage Hens, 70.
Pseudostoma castanops, 313*. Saleeratus, 417%.
Pterocyanea rafflesii, 307, 322*. Saleratus Lake, 274*,
Pumbar’s Creek, 78. Salt bed, 110.
Pungun Spring, 294*. Salt deposites, 158.
Putorius erminea, 311*. Salt Lake, antiseptic quality of its water,
ee vison, 311*. Tits
Saltness of the water of Great Salt Lake,
102.
Q Salt pools, 62.
Salt, solid crust of, 190.
Quartz, 102 Salt Springs, 101, 117, 118.
; . ‘ Sandstone, 16, 27.
¥ ? ?
Querquedula carolinensis, 3822*. Sandy, 275*.
Sandy Creek, 26, 70, 271*.
San Pete Creek, 294%,
R Sarcobatus, 160.
Sarcobatus vermicularis, 394*.
Rabbit Hollow, 232. Sauk Indians levying tribute, 17.
Railroad route, 220. Scarcity of timber about Salt Lake,
Railroad to Pacific, 263. 122,
Rattlesnakes, 174. Sceleporus graciosus, 346*.
Rattlesnakes in holes of prairie dog, 37. ee grammicus, 344*.
Rattlesnake, mule killed by, 70. ae microlepidotus, 344*.
Rattlesnake Creek, 246, 285*, 300*. < scalaris, 847*.
Recurvirostra americana, 320*. Scirpus torreyi, 397*.
- occidentalis, 326*. Scott’s Bluff, 52, 272, 288%.
Red Buttes, 62. Sealed wives, 136.
Red Chimney Fork, 79. Sections of strata, 20, 21, 23, 25, 34, 35.
Red Fork, 222, 224, 276, 279. 39, 42, 44, 48, 54, 56, 57, 58, 67, 73,
Red Kanyon, 300*. wie
Red Springs, 214, 274*. Sego, 160, 169, 208.
Reptiles collected, 336. Senecio filifolius, 391*.
Revenues of Utah, 132. Ge hookeri, 891*.
. Richard’s Post, 288*. «¢ hydrophilus. 391*.
Rim Base, 280%*. Sessions settlement, 215*.
Rock, Independence, 274*. Settlements, mode of establishing by the
Rock-gate Camp, 166. Mormons, 142.
Roofing slate, 161. Shale, 16.
Root-digger Indians, 82, 148. Sheep Rock, 88.
Roseaux River, 88. Sheep, Rocky Mountain, 812*.
Route, new, through the Rocky Moun- | Shepherdia argentea, 395*,
tains, 261. Shoshonee Indians, 77, 97, 174, 232.
Routes from Fort Bridger to Salt Lake | Sialia macroptera, 307, 314.
City, 75. Sidalcia malveeflora, 384*.
Route from Fort Hall to Salt Lake, 98. | Sidalcia neomexicana, 208.
Route from Salt Lake City to California, | Sigillaria, 403.
87. Silk-plant, 175.
Routes to Salt Lake, 139. Silver Creek, 222, 279%.
Routes to Salt Lake Valley, 227. Sioux, 44.
Rumex venosus, 394*. Sioux, dead bodies of, 43.
Rush Creek, 94. Siredon lichenoides, 336%.
486 ALPHABETICAL INDEX.
Siredon maculatus, 337*.
«© mexicanus, 337*.
Sisymbrium canescens, 384*,
Sisyrinchium bermudiana, 397*.
Small-pox, 253.
Smith’s Fork, 230, 276*, 281*.
Smith, Joseph, 124.
Smithsonian Institution, 53.
Snapping-turtle, 28.
Snowbud, Oregon, 316*.
Soft-shelled turtle, 23.
Selidago missouriensis, 387*.
South Pass, 70, 274*.
Spanish Fork, 294*.
Spermophilus 13-lineatus, 312*.
Spirea dumosa, 387*.
‘¢ opulifolia, var. 387*.
Spiritual wives, 136.
Spirifer, 16, 18, 19.
‘¢ _ hemiplicata, 409*,
obs octoplicata, 409*.
‘¢ triplicata, 410*.
Spring Camp, 270*.
Spring Creek, 215, 290*.
Spring Valley, 118.
Slate, 208.
Stampede, 16, 222.
Stansbury Island, 297*.
Staphylinus villosus, 875*.
Stenopelmatus fuscus, 372*.
Stenotus cespitosus, 389%.
Stephanomeria minor, 208.
es runcinata, 391*.
Stethoxus'triangularis, 374*.
Stipa striatus, 209.
Strawberries, 23.
Streptanthus crassicaulis, 383*.
xe sagittatus, 384*.
Strepletasma, 173, 211.
Strix cunicularia, 37.
Strong’s Knob, 195, 199, 202, 297*.
Sturnella neglecta, 316*.
Sufferings for want of water, 108.
Sulphur Creek, 226, 280*, 300*.
Sulphur Springs, 101, 213, 236, 282*.
Summary of Mormon faith, 135.
Summary of work done, 216.
Survey of lake completed, 211.
Swan, 100, 821*.
Sweetwater, 238.
Sweetwater River, 63, 274*.
Symphemia semipalmata, 320*.
Syringopora, 211.
Ai
Tanning, Use of lea in, 421.
Tar-spring Creek, 77.
Teal, Red-breasted, 322*.
Teal, Green-wing, 322*.
Tellinomya protensa, 412*.
Temperature of spring water, 49.
Terebratula, 401.
Terebratula subtilita, 409*.
Teton Peak, 286*.
Tetradymia nuttallii, 391*.
Tetrao urophasianus, 70, 319*.
Thaspium montanum, 389*.
Thirty-two Mile Creek, 271*, 272%.
Three Buttes, 93.
Thunder storm, 221.
Timber, 70, 94, 218, 250.
Timber, character of, 79.
Timpa Creek, 294*.
Timpanogas, 215.
Timpanogas River, 294*.
Titmouse, black-head, 316*.
Tophet, 189.
Tradescantia, 32, 34.
Trap dikes, 222.
Trees, their destruction by fire, 32.
Triangles, tabulation of, 298*.
Triglochin maritimum, 396*.
Triteleia grandiflora, 397*.
Trochalus explanatus, 374*.
Trona, 420*.
Tropidolepis scincicaudus, 348*,
Trout, 77, 98, 94, 141, 241.
Tufa, 202.
Tuilla Valley, 18.
Turkey Creek, 23, 271*, 291*.
Turn Creek, 291*.
Turret Rock, 181.
U
Uintah Mountains, 73.
Uintahs, 120.
University, 143.
Uta, 344%.
“ ornata, 344*.
‘¢ gtansburiana, 345*,
Utah Creek, 294*.
Utah Indians, 202.
Vy
Vache 4 lait, 175.
Vegetation, change of, 50.
Vermilion Creek, 292*.
Vicia americana, 385%.
Viola pedunculata, 383*.
Volcanic rocks, 87.
Vulpes macrourus, 309*,
ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 487
Wolverene, 311*.
W Woodpecxer, Lewis, 819*.
Woodpecker, yellow-bellied, 326%.
Wahsatch Mountains, 78. Woollen Factory, 142.
Wa-ka-tiky Creek, 294*. Wyeth’s Creek, 25.
Wa-ke-te-ke Creek, 215.
Walnut Creek, 15, 25, 271*..
Warm Spring, 55, 117, 129, 273%. Dg
Warm Spring Creek, 55.
Warm Spring water, analysis of, 419*. | Yampah, 237.
Watage Creek, 294*. Yampas, 120.
Water of Salt Lake, its chemical campo- | Yellow Creek, 225, 280*, 300%.
sition, 212. Young, Brigham, 84, 125, 1388, 146.
Water vessels of Indians, 104. Young’s Peak, 297.
Weber River, 78, 214, 276*, 293%.
Wild ducks, 173.
Wild fowl, 157, 161. ZL
Wild geese, 100.
Willet, 820*. Zaitha bifoveata, 870*.
Willow Creek, 294*. ‘¢ reticulata, 370*.
Windmill Rock, 92, 293*. Zoology, 307.
Wind River Mountain, 67. Zopherus variolosus, 376*.
THE END.
STEREOTYPED BY L. JOHNSON & CQ.
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