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THE 


FLORAL  WORLD 


GARDEN    GUIDE. 


EDITED 

BY 

SHIRLEY  HIBBERD,  ESQ.,  F.R.H.S. 


I87L 


LIBRARY 
NEW    YORK 
BOTANICAL 

GARDEN 


LONDON: 

GROOMBRIDGE    AND    SONS, 

5,  PATERNOSTER  ROW. 

■ — <x>:*ioo— 


London : 

Peinted  by  Simmons  &  Botten, 

Shoe  Lanf,  E.C. 


INDEX. 


Abtjtilon  Thompsoni,  317 
Acacias,  pruning,  192 
Achimenes,  thrips  on,  319 
Acme  frame,  Looker's,  56 
Agapanthus,  hardiness  of,  354 
Agavas,  culture  of,  319 
American  garden,  the,  236 
Antirrhinums,  select,  221 
Annual  flowers,  choice,  76 
Annuals  for  cold  soil,  160 
Ants,  destroying,  240 
Aquilegia  glandulosa,  353 
Aquilegias,  hardy,  353 
Areca  lutescens  and  A.  ruhra,  23 
Artillery  plant,  95 
Asparagus  beds,  salting,  64 
Asparagus,  colossal,  314 
Asters  for  the  conservatory,  171 
Astilbe  japonica,  307 
Auriculas,  seedling,  287 

Basket  plants,  128 

Beans,  preserving,  French,  192 

Beans,  kidney,  132 

Beans,  scarlet  runners,  planting,  173 

Bedding  calceolarias,  175 

Bedding,  carpet,  137 

Bedding,  embroidery,  65 

Bedding  plants,  propagation  of,  45,  278 

Bedding  plants,  select,  79,  351 

Bedding  succulents,  341 

Bedding  violas  and  pansies,  262 

Beds,  preparing  flower,  112 

Bedders  and  bedding,  45,  79,  112 

Beehive,  the  German,  179 

Begonia  fuchsioides,  127 

Begonias,  ornamental-leaved,  63 

Begonias,  propagating,  174 

Beetroot  culture,  116 

Boiler,  Cannell's  new,  146 

Books,  new,  188,  339 

Borecoles  for  bedding,  77 

Bougainvilleas,  pot  culture  of,  356 

Bouquets,  flowers  for,  148 


Boxes  for  propagating,  319 

Boxes,  window,  48 

Bulbs,  planting  spring-flowering,  228 

Cabbage,  club  in,  192 

Calamus  dealbatus  and  C.  spectabilis,  23 

Calceolarias,  157 

Calceolarias  for  bedding,  175 

Cannas,  select,  78 

Cannell's  new  boiler,  146 

Cape  cowslips,  242 

Carpet  bedding,  157 

Carpet  chamomile,  352 

Carrot  culture,  1 1 4 

Celosia  culture,  160 

Centaureas,    propagation    and    culture 

of,  54 
Chamsedorea    spectabilis,    C.   gramini- 

folia,  C.  Wendlandi,  21 
Chamaerops  Fortunei  and  humilis,  24 
Christmas  decorations,  366 
Chrysanthemums,  95 
Chrysanthemums,  Japanese,  19 
Cineraria  culture,  143 
Clematis,  352 

Clematis  culture,  hybrid,  129 
Clematis,  propagation  of,  288 
Clianthus  Dampieri,  224 
Climbing  plants  for  a  porch,  191 
Climbing  roses,  5,  347 
Club  in  cabbages,  192 
Cocos  Weddeliana,  24 
Coleus,  note  on  bedding,  118 
Columbines,  hardy,  353 
Cordon  case,  Brehaut's,  360 
Corypha  australis,  24 
Cucumbers,  summer,  106 
Cyclamens,  350 
Cypripedium  insigne,  337 

Dahlia,  propagation  and  culture  of  the, 

82,  104,  199,  244 
Daemonorops  accidens  and  D.  plumosa, 

24 


INDEX. 


Decorations,  Christmas,  366 
Dessert  pears,  cultivation  of,  34 
Dieffenbachia,  13 

Earthworms,  destroying,  135 
Echeveria  secunda  glauca  and  E.  me- 

tallica;  341 
Echeverias,  propagating,  341 
Edgings,  ivy,  96 
Egg  plants,  224 
Embroidery  bedding,  65 
Ericas  drying,  224 
Euphorbia  jacquinifolia,  85 
Exhibitions,  reports   of,    26,    57,    123, 

153,  184,  221,  251,  2S1,  312,  345 
Euterpe  edulis,  24 

Evaporation  of  water  from  plants,  62 
Everlasting  flowers,  gathering,  319 

Fern  house,  158 

Ferns  from  spores,  62 

Ferns,  tree,  62,  191 

Fertilization  of  plants,  self,  311 

Ficus  elasticus,  192 

Flowers  for  bouquets,  148 

Forcing,  early,  95 

Flowers,  selection  of  showy,  76 

Flower  beds,  preparing,  112 

Forget-me-nots,  288 

Frozen  plants,  64 

Fruit  for  all  purposes,  selections  of,  348 

Fruit  gathering,  309 

Fruit  trees,  management  of,  under  glass, 

268 
Fruit  trees,  watering,  17 
Fuchsia  buds,  dropping,  319 
Fuchsias  for  the  conservatory,  100 
Fumigating  greenhouse,  350 
Gas  heating,  362 

Garden  Guide,  29,  60,  93,  121,  151, 

183,  219,  249,  285,  315,  343,  371 
Garden>  summer  work  in  the  kitchen, 

195 
Gardening  without  a  garden,  229 
Gathering  fruit,  309 
Geranium  propagation  by  leaves,  209 
Gladiolus,  cultivation  of  the,  203 
Gladioli  in  pots,  288  :  Souchet's  new, 

330  ;  selection  of,  293 
Gleanings  from  catalogues,  76 
Gleichenia  culture,  317 
Gourds,  192 
Grape  growing,  9 
Grape  growing  in  greenhouse,  136 
Grape  vine,  propagation  of,  9 
Grape   vines,   cropping   and    thinning, 

233 
Grapes,  keeping  late,  215 
Grapes,  setting  Muscat,  174 
Grasses,  ornamental,  77 


Greenhouse,  fumigating,   350  ;  heating 

small,  128  ;  vinery,  136 
Greenhouses  in  winter,  managing,  363 

Hardy  plants  for  the  flower  garden,  353 

Heaths,  drying,  224 

Heating  small  greenhouse,  178 

Heating  greenhouses  with  gas,  362 

Hepaticas,  224 

Hollyhocks,  32 

Horticultural  Notes,  26,  57,  123,  153, 

184,  221,  251,  281,  312,  345,  373 
Hoteia  japonica,  307 
Humea  elegans,  208 
Hyacinths  for  exhibition,  310 
Hyacinths     for   exhibition   and   home 

decoration,  318 

India-rubber  plants,  192 

Iris,  cultivation  of,  226 ;  select  list  of, 

226 
Ivy,  a  new  use  for,  38 
Ivy,  pyramidal  specimens  of,  38 
Ivy,  edgings,  96 
Ivies,  variegated,  321 

Jasminum,  officinale,  propagating,  63 
Japanese  chrysanthemums,  19 

Kainit,  63 

Kidney  beans,  132 

Kitchen  garden,  summer  work  in,  195 

Lace-leaf  plant,  259 

Lachenalias,  culture  of,  242 

Lady's  slipper,  the,  337 

Latania  bourbonica,  24 

Lawn  plants,  hardy,  354 

Lawn,  renovating  old,  128 

Lawn,  the  making  and  the  management 

of  the,  331 
Lawns,  making  new,  287 
Lawns,  destroying  earthworms  in,  135 
Leaves,  skeleton,  256 
Leaves,  absorption  of  moisture  by,  311 
Licula  peltata,  24 
Lily  of  the  valley,  home  grown,  89 
Literary  notices,  339 
Livistonia  australis,  24 
London  gardening  in  the  olden  time,  91 
Looker's  garden  frame,  56 

Maize,  its  use  and  culture,  87 
Malortica  simplex,  25 
Manure,  sawdust  as  a,  224 
Maple  leaf,  the,  39 
Marantas,  277 
Martinezia  carytsefolia,  25 
Mealy  bug,  destroying,  63 
Melon  CTilture,  67 
Muscat  grapes,  setting,  174 


INDEX. 


Myosotis,  dissitiflora,  288 
Mushroom  culture,  159 

Nepenthes,  prices  of,  350 
Night-scented  stock,  53 

Orchard-house  in  winter,  17  ;  manage- 
ment of,  268 
Orchids,  notes  on,  161 
Ouvirandra  fenestralis,  259 

Palms,  notes  on,  21 

Pansies,  bedding,  262 

Parsnip  culture,  115 

Peaches,  double  flowering,  191 

Pea,  cultivation  of  the  garden,  40 

Peas,  the  best  garden,  44 

Peas,  sweet,  92 

Pear,  Brookworth  Park,  33 

Pears  in  Australia,  47 

Pears,    cultivation    and     selection    of 

dessert,  34 
Pelargoniums,  propagating,  288  ;  large- 
flowering,    1 ;      select    show,    288  ; 

zonals,  200 ;  propagating  zonals,  216 ; 

zonal,  for  pot  culture,    300 ;  select 

zonal  and  variegated,  165 
Pentstemons,  select,  271 
Periwinkle,  variegated,  224 
Plants,  frozen,  64  ;  for  baskets,  128 
Plumbago  capensis,  150 
Poinsettia  pulcherrima,  64,  85 
Polygonum  tricuspidata,  355 
Porch  covering,  191 
Portulacas  for  the  flower-gai'den,  141 
Potatoes,  13  ;  planting,  96  ;  culture  of, 

126  ;  selections  of,  126 
Pot-vines,  51 

Phloxes,  select  late- flowering,  158 
Pictorial  trees,  289 
Pink,  Coccinea,    258  ;    Godfrey,  258  ; 

Shirley  Hibberd,  258 ;  Lady  Blanche, 

258  ;  Dr.  Masters,  259 
Pinks,  Turner's  new,  257  ;  exhibition, 

259 
Pitcher  plant,  prices  of,  350 
Plant  houses,  winter  management  of, 

363 
Plant  protectors,  Rendle's,  358 
Primula  cortusoides,  193 
Primula  sinensis,  sowing  seed  of,  95 
Propagating  boxes,  319 ;  bedding  plants, 

45,  278  ;  zonal  pelargoniums,  216 
Pruning  roses,  108 
Ptjchosperma  excelsis,  25 

Rendle's  plant  protectors,  358 
P.  aphis  flabelliformis,  25 
Rhododendrons,  cultivation  of  hardy, 

236 
Boots,  kitchen  garden,  114 


Rosarium,  forming  a,  322 

Rose-buds,  decaying,  158 

Rose,  cultivation  of,  5 

Rose  grubs,  destroying,  191 

Rose  trees,  planting,  255 

Roses,  a  few  words  about,  298  ;  climb- 
ing, 75,  347;  how  to  prune,  108; 
propagation  of,  203 ;  selections  of, 
326 

Salsafy  culture,  96,  117 
Sawdust  as  manure,  224 
Schizanthus  culture,  270 
Seaforthia  elegans  and  S.  Veitchi,  25 
Seakale  cutting,  32 
Sempervivum  californicum,  341 
Spirsea  japonica,  307 
Spring-flowering  bulbs,  planting,  287 
Spring-flowering  plants,  hardy,  12S 
Skeleton  leaves,  256 
Stock,  night-scented,  53 
Stocks,  intermediate,  232 
Subtropical  gardening,  177 
Subtropical  plants,  select,  168 
Succulents,  bedding,  34L 
Summer  cucumbers,  106 
Summer  work  in  the  kitchen  garden, 

195 
Sweet  peas,  92 

Table  decoration,  ornamental-leaved 
plants  for,  213  ;  flowering  plants  for 
274  ;  berry-bearing  plants  for,  327 

Tan,  127 

Tecoma  jasminioides,  63 

Thrinax  elegans  and  T.  gracilis,  25 

Thrips  on  achimenes,  319 

Todea  Wilkesiana,  234 

Tomato  culture,  172 

Town  garden,  flowers  for  a,  160 

Trees,  garden,  289 

TropoBolum  tricolorum,  206 

Tulips,  early,  264 

Tulips,  select,  318 

Variegated  pelargoniums,  select,  165 
Variegated    and   zonal    pelargoniums, 

select,  165 
Vases,  flowers  for,  148 
Verbena,   Peter  Williams,   97 ;    Blue 

Bell,    97;     Grand     Monarch,    98; 

George  Peabody,  98  ;    Mrs.  Dodds, 

98  ;  Rose  Imperial,  98 
Verbena,  Eckford's  new,  97  ;  notes  on, 

99 ;  for  pot  culture,  the  best,  98,  288 
Veronica  Candida,  95 
Vinca  major  elegantissima,  224 
Vine  borders,  forming,  71 
Vines  in   greenhouse,   136  ;    manage- 
ment  of  pot,    238 ;    outdoor,    303  ; 

in  pots,  management  of,  51 ;  plant- 


\ 


INDEX. 


ing  and  pruning,  210  ;  thinning  and 
cropping,  grape,  233 ;  propagation 
of,  9 

Vinery,  Looker's  ground,  56 

Vineries,  erection  of,  71 

Vineries,  Rendle's  ground,  358 

Violas,  bedding,  262 

"Welfia  regia,  25 
"Walls,  roses  for,  7 


Window  gardening,  229 
Window  gardening,  48 
Winter,  a  note  on  the,  126 
Wire  worms,  destroying,  159 
Woodlice,  destroying,  32,  127 
Worms  in  lawns,  destroying,  135 

Zonal  pelargoniums,  200  ;  propagation 
of,  216  ;  select,  165 


NEW  PLANTS. 


Acacia  Riceana,  119 

Acer  palmatum  crispum,218;  A.  pal- 

matum  ornatum,  218 
Agava  ixtlioides,  190 
Amaryllis  Rayneri,  190 
Aphelandra  aurantinea,  119 
Aristolochia  clypeala,  218 
Begonia  crinita,  190 
Beloperone  ciliata,  189 
Caladium,    Henry    Dodcot,    218;    C. 

Etoile    d' Argent,      218;     C.     Jules 

Putzey's,   218 ;    C.    Mons.    Bariller, 

190 
Camellia,  Madame  Cannart  d'Hamule, 

218 
Callypsyche    aurantiaca,    217,   and   C. 

mirabilis,  217 
Catalpa  syringsefolia  aurea,  119 
C'attleya  maxima,  119 
Costus  Malortieanus,  190 
C'yrtanthera  chrysostephana,  190 
Godetia  whitneyi,  119 


Oillia  linifolia,  190 

Hyacinthus  caudicans,  217  ;  princeps, 

217 
Leptosiphon  parvifolius  rosaceus,  120 
Masdevallia  Lindeni,  218 
Massonia  (Astemna)  odorata,  189 
MimulusTilingi,218 
Odontoglossum  nevadense,  218 
Odontoglossum     odoratum     latimacu- 

latum,  218 
Oncidium   tigrinum    Tar    splendidum, 

190 
Paulinia  thalictrifolia,  190 
Pelargonium  pink,  May  Queen,  189 
Quercus  striata,  218 
Saxifraga  CAizoania)  longifolia,  189 
Slatice  spicata,  190,  217 
Themistoclesia  coronilla,  120 
Tillandsia  ionantha,  189 
Todea  Africana,  218 
Xiphion  junceum,  189 


COLOURED    PLATES. 


Alder,  the  golden,  293 
Alnus  glandulosa  aurea,  293 
Aquilegia  glandulosa,  353 
Clematis,  Star  of  India,  129 
Golden  alder,  293 
Iris  reticulata,  225 
Ivies,  variegated,  321 
Leaf-embroidered  border,  65 
Pear,  Brockworth-park,  33 
Pelargonium,  Pollie,  1 
Pink,  Godfrey,  257 


Primula  cortusoides  amcena,  and  P.  c. 
lilacina,  193 

Terrace-garden,  with  leaf  embroidery. 
65 

Thunia  Bensonise,  161 

Variegated  ivies,  221 

Verbenas,  Eckford's,  Blue  Bell,  Mrs. 
Dodds,  Rose  Imperial,  Grand  Mon- 
arch, George  Peabody,  and  Peter 
Williams,  97 


INDEX. 


WOOD  ENGRAVINGS. 


Acacia  Riceana,  119 
-Acme  frame,  Looker's,  56 
Aster,  posony-flowered  globe,  171 
Astilbe  japonica,  308 
Beehive,  the  German,  180,  181 
Boiler,  Cannell's,  146,  147 
Cordon  case,  360 
Cyperus  papyrus,  169 
Cypripedium  insigne,  337,  338 
Dahlia  blooms,  perfect,  246,  247,  248 
Dahlias,  protecting  blooms,  245,  246 
Dasmonorops  accidens,  23 
Fiower  boxes,  48,  49,  50 
Fuchsia,  specimen,  102 
Gas-heating  apparatus,  362 
Godetia  Whitneyi,  120 
Greenhouse  vinery,  137 
Hotei  japonica,  308 
Humea  elegans,  209 
Lace-leaf  plant,  2C0  ;  leaf  and  flower- 
scape  of,  261 
Leptosiphori  rosaceus,  120 
Licula  peltata,  25 
Looker's  acme  frame,  56 
Marauta  zebrina,  277 


Melon,  Gdbert's  Improved  Victory  of 
Bath,  69  ;  Cox's  Golden  Gem,  70 

Mimulus  Tilingi,  218 

Ouvirandra  fenestralis,  260,  261 

Palms,  figures  of,  23,  25 

Pea,  M'Lean's  Best  of  All,  40  ;  Eastie's 
Kentish  Invicta,  41 

Potato,  Wood's  Scarlet  Prolific,  14; 
Sutton's  Berkshire  kidney,  15 

Rendle's  portable  plant  protectors,  358, 
359,  360,  361 

Spiraea  japonica,  308 

Statice  ^picata,  £17 

Todea  Wilkesiana,  234 

Trellises,wire,for  plants  of  small  growth, 
207 

Tropaeolum  tricolorum,  trellises  for,  207 

Vines,  pruning  and  training,  211 

Vines,  training  and  propagating  out- 
door, 305, 307 

Vinery  greenhouse,  137 

ViDeries,  ground,  Looker's,  56  ;  Han- 
dle's, 358-360 

Vineries,  plants  of,  72,  73,  74 

Window  boxes,  48,  49,  50 


P  0  I  I  Y. 


UBBABY 
NEW   yojy. 


AND 


GARDEN    GUIDE, 


§2$-£SS€M£S3es 


LAEGE-ELOWEEING   PELAEGOJSITJMS. 


CO 
CD 


BY    GEOBGE    GOBDON. 
(With  coloured  figure  of  Turner's  Pelargonium  "Polly.") 

HE  absence  of  the  grand  collections  of  large-flowered 
Pelargoniums  from  Hoyle,  Eraser,  Bailey,  Turner,  and 
other  celebrated  growers,  at  the  horticultural  exhibi- 
tions held  in  the  metropolis  during  the  last  two  or  three 
seasons,  is  certainly  an  indication  that  they  are  a  few 
shades  less  popular  than  they  were  a  few  years  since  ;  yet  it  would  be 
wrong  to  suppose  that  few  people  care  for  them.  Indeed,  for  home 
decoration,  I  believe  that  the  esteem  in  which  they  have  hitherto 
been  held  has  decreased  very  little  indeed,  and  also  that  there  can 
be  no  doubt  that  the  disappearance  from  the  arena  of  the  collec- 
tions referred  to,  is  more  directly  due  to  parsimonious  schedules 
than  to  any  lack  of  interest  felt  in  them  by  the  general  public.  It 
must  be  borne  in  mind  that  it  is  a  most  expensive  affair  to  grow  and 
convey  to  an  exhibition  such  huge  specimens  as  those  staged  by 
the  foregoing  exhibitors,  and  it  would  be  unreasonable  to  expect 
any  one,  whether  in  the  trade  or  not,  to  devote  much  time,  labour, 
and  skill  in  the  cultivation  of  any  class  of  plants  with  the  full 
knowledge  of  their  incurring  a  large  pecuniary  loss,  even  if  most 
successful.  Without  any  further  preface  I  will  offer  a  few  remarks 
on  their  cultivation  for  conservatory  decoration,  and  then  give  a 
short  descriptive  list  of  a  few  of  the  best  and  most  distinct  of  the 
new  varieties. 

It  matters  not  at  what  season  of  the  year  their  cultivation  is 
commenced,  but  where  they  are  taken  in  hand  for  the  first  time,  or 
where  an  addition  to  the  existing  stock  is  made,  the  plants  should  be 
purchased  as  early  in  the  season  as  possible.  For  instance,  sturdy 
little  plants  that  come  to  hand  now,  can  with  proper  care  be  grown 
into  moderate-sized  specimens  by  the  period  of  their  flowering, 
whereas  those  purchased  late  in  the  season,  will  be  so  small  in  size, 
that  the  flowers  will  be  sparingly  produced,  even  if  they  bloom  at 
VOL.  vi. — no.  i.  1 


2  THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

all.  They  should  undergo  an  examination  immediately  they  come  to 
hand,  and  if  the  pots  are  well  filled  with  roots,  shift  them  into  a 
larger  size  at  once  ;  if,  however,  they  are  not  well  rooted,  defer  the 
repotting  until  the  middle  or  end  of  February.  In  either  case  they 
should  he  placed  in  a  light  and  airy  position  in  the  greenhouse,  and 
he  watered  cautiously.  A  fortnight  or  so  after  they  have  been  re- 
potted pinch  out  the  points  of  the  young  shoots  to  assist  the  forma- 
tion of  bushy  specimens,  and  when  it  becomes  necessary  train  out 
the  side-shoots  by  means  of  neat  sticks.  Those  intended  for  exhibi- 
tion must  have  the  branches  brought  close  down  to  the  rim  of  the 
pot,  and  be  kept  down  as  much  as  possible  during  the  first  year ; 
but  the  growth  of  those  intended  for  conservatory  decoration  will 
merely  require  tying  out  to  admit  a  free  circulation  of  air  amongst 
the  branches,  and  for  securing  a  regular  well-balanced  outline 
when  they  are  in  flower.  Upright  growing  plants  with  heads 
of  bloom  about  twelve  or  fifteen  inches  in  diameter  are  the  most 
useful  for  the  conservatory,  and  therefore  excessive  training  must  be 
avoided. 

As  they  go  out  of  flower  remove  them  to  the   open,  and  place 

the  pots  upon  a  bed  of  coal-ashes,  and  if  practicable  shade  them  for 

a  few  days  to  allow  the  wood  to  become  slightly  hardened  before  they 

are  exposed  to  the  full  influence  of  the  sun.     Henceforth  they  must 

have  free  exposure  to  the  weather,  and  in  a  fortnight  or  three  weeks 

the  wood  will   be  matured  sufficiently  to  allow  of  their  being  cut 

down.     The  soil  should  also  be  kept  as  dry  as  it  is  possible  to  keep 

it  without  allowing  the  leaves  to  flag.     In  pruning,  cut  back  the 

young  shoots  to  within  two  or  three  buds  of  the  old  wood,  according 

to  their  respective  positions,   but  the  chief  aim  must  be  to  give  to 

each  a  symmetrical  appearance.     Excepting  in  unusually  wet  seasons 

they  should  remain  in  the  open,  until  taken  indoors  for  the  winter, 

but  in  wet  seasons  they  should  be  placed  in  a  cold  frame,  and  the 

lights  drawn  off  at  all  times,  excepting  when  they  are  required  to 

protect  the  inmates  from  the  rain.     No  water  must  be  applied  to 

the  roots  from  the  time  they  are  cut  down  until  the  younq  growth  is 

about  half  an  inch  in  length,  but  they  will  receive  much  benefit  from 

a  sprinkle  overhead  in  the  afternoon  of  a  dry  hot  day.     When  the 

young  growth  has  attained  the  abovementioned  length,  turn  them  out 

of  the  pots,  remove  nearly  if  not  quite  all  the  old  soil,  trim  the  roots 

slightly,  and  put  each   in  a  pot  one  or  two  sizes  smaller  than  that 

which  it  has  previously  occupied.     Return  them  to  the  position  they 

previously  occupied,  and  water  very  sparingly  until  they  are  well 

established  in  the  new  soil.     Even  then,  no   more  water  must   be 

applied  than  is  absolutely  necessary  to  maintain  a  steady  growth. 

Early  in  September  remove  to  the  greenhouse  for  the  winter,  and  the 

only  attention  required  to  keep  them  in  health   will  be  to  supply 

them  with  water  when  necessary7,  and  to  keep  the  foliage  free  from 

green-fly,  which,  by  the  way,  are  very  partial  to  them. 

Some  time  during  January  of  the  following  year,  repot  all  that 
require  a  shift  into  pots  two  sizes  larger ;  that  is,  those  occupying 
three-inch  pots  should  be  put  into  the  six-inch  size,  and  those  in  five- 
inch  into  pots  eight  inches  in  diameter.     Potted  as  here  advised,  no 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN   GUIDE.  3 

further  shift  will  be  required  until  after  they  have  done  flowering, 
and  much  unnecessary  labour  is  avoided.  After  the  end  of  February 
the  young  growth  will  make  vigorous  progress,  and  should  be  tied 
out  neatly,  and  their  growing  points  nipped  out.  In  succeeding 
years,  when  the  period  of  flowering  will  be  more  under  the  control 
of  the  cultivator,  the  specimens  intended  for  flowering  in  May  must 
receive  their  final  stopping  in  January ;  for  June,  in  March  ;  and  for 
July,  some  time  towards  the  end  of  April.  Those  required  for  May 
must  receive  their  final  shift  in  October,  and  be  placed  in  a  tempera- 
ture a  few  degrees  higher  than  that  required  for  the  remaining  por- 
tion of  the  stock.  After  the  first  season's  growth  the  plants  should, 
as  soon  as  they  are  well  established  in  the  pots  in  which  they  are  to 
flower,  be  watered  with  weak  liquid  manure  about  twice,  and  with 
•clear  soft  water  at  all  other  times. 

Large-flowered  Pelargoniums  winter  best  in  a  temperature  rang- 
ing between  40°  and  50°,  according  to  the  weather,  and  with  just 
enough  fire-heat  to  keep  the  frost  out,  and  the  atmosphere  dry.  A 
comparatively  dry  atmosphere  and  moderate  supplies  of  water  at  the 
roots  during  this  period,  are  most  important,  and  the  principal  bulk 
of  the  failures  which  occur  every  season  may  be  safely  attributed  to 
a  reverse  of  these  conditions. 

A  compost  consisting  of  three-parts  sound  turfy  loam,  and  one 
each  of  well-decayed  hot-bed  manure  and  leaf-mould,  and  half  a 
part  of  sharp  silver-sand,  will  grow  all  the  large-flowering  varieties  to 
perfection.  The  soil  must  be  used  in  a  moderately  rough  condition, 
and  the  loam  and  manure  be  well  mixed  together.  The  compost 
should,  if  possible,  be  prepared  four  or  six  months  beforehand,  by 
placing  the  manure  between  the  layers  of  loam  when  it  is  stacked  up 
in  a  heap,  as  it  comes  from  the  pasture  or  common. 

By  pursuing  this  plan  much  time  and  trouble  will  be  saved,  as  all 
that  has  to  be  done  when  the  soil  is  required  for  use  is  to  chop  down 
one  side  of  the  heap  of  soil,  and  add  the  sand  to  it.  It  now  only 
remains  to  be  said  in  connection  with  this  part  of  the  subject  that 
the  pots  must  be  clean  and  well  drained,  and  the  soil  be  pressed 
firm,  without  being  rammed  hard. 

Cuttings  of  well-matured  wood  cut  up  into  lengths  of  two  joints 
each,  with  a  young  side-shoot  proceeding  from  the  top  joint,  strike 
freely.  Prepare  by  cutting  them  close  under  the  bottom  bud,  and 
remove  the  lower  leaf.  Insert  in  cutting  pots,  prepared  in  the  usual 
manner  with  a  layer  of  dry  sand  on  the  top,  and  then  place  in  a 
cold  frame.  Keep  rather  elope  and  shade  moderately  during  the 
first  week  or  ten  days,  and  then  ventilate  freely,  and  expose  to  the 
full  sun.  Pot  off  as  soon  as  nicely  rooted,  and  if  they  are  stopped 
when  well  established  and  shifted  into  five-inch  pots  about  a  fort- 
night or  three  weeks  afterwards,  they  will  make  good  specimens  by 
the  following  season. 

There  are  now  only  three  raisers  of  large-flowered  show  varieties, 
and  of  these  Mr.  Hoyle  and  Mr.  Poster,  whose  flowers  are  dis- 
tributed by  Mr.  C.  Turner,  of  Slough,  enjoy  the  highest  repute.  The 
new  varieties  that  will  be  sent  out  by  Mr.  Turner  in  the  ensuing 
spring  were  all  exhibited  several  times  during  the  exhibition  season 


4  THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

of  last  year,  and  many  of  tbem  were  shown  at  the  summer  shows  of 
1860,  and  the  descriptions  here  given  of  them  are  entirely  my  own, 
and  are  the  result  of  careful  criticism  and  comparison  with  others  of 
anterior  date. 

Admiration  (Poster). — A  grand  flower;  top  petals  deep  bright 
crimson,  with  dark  blotch;  lower  petals  deep  pink,  with  small 
blotch  ;  fine  habit  and  very  free. 

Black  Prince. — Top  petals  deep  maroon,  bordered  with  red; 
lower  petals  pink,  painted  with  crimson;  throat  pure  white;  dis- 
tinct and  pleasing. 

Brigantine  (Foster). — Top  petals  rich,  maroon  crimson,  with 
narrow  margin  of  pink  ;  lower  petals  pale  rose,  painted  with  crim- 
son ;  free  and  showy,  grand. 

Charlemagne.- — Top  petals  clear  bright  salmon-pink,  with  deep 
maroon  blotch  on  top  petals ;  a  large  and  most  superbly-finished 
flower. 

Iron  Bulce  (Foster). — Top  petals  dark,  with  margin  of  bright 
rosy  pink  ;  lower  petals  bright  carmine ;  throat  pure  white  ;  first- 
rate  in  every  respect. 

May  Bay  (Foster). — Top  petals  glossy  black,  with  broad  mar- 
gin of  rosy  pink  ;  lower  petals  light  pink ;  throat  white ;  a  most 
refined  and  beautiful  flower. 

Folly  (Foster). — The  faithfully  executed  figure  of  this  splendid 
variety  renders  a  technical  description  unnecessary.  The  habit  is 
first-rate,  and  as  it  is  remarkably  floriferous,  there  can  be  no  doubt 
it  will  occupy  a  prominent  position  in  the  principal  competitive 
groups  many  years  hence,  and  be  much  appreciated  for  the 
conservatory  stage. 

Warrior  (Foster). — Deep  glossy  black  top  petals,  with  bright  red 
margin  ;  lower  petals  bright  reddish  pink ;  a  superbly  finished 
flower,  with  a  compact  and  remarkably  floriferous  habit. 

BuJce  of  Edinburgh  (Hoyle). — Top  petals  blackish  maroon,  with 
bright  margin  of  pink  ;  lower  petals  rose,  prettily  painted  with 
dark  ;  a  grand  flower  of  the  most  superb  form. 

Eldorado  (Hoyle). — Top  petals  bright  red,  with  dark  blotch  ; 
lower  petals  deep  rose ;  wondrously  showy. 

Exemplar  (Hoyle). — Top  petals  deep  maroon,  with  narrow  border 
of  rose  ;  lower  petals  pink  blotched  with  maroon  ;  free  and  showy. 

Pasha  (Hoyle). — Top  petals  blackish,  bordered  with  pink;  lower 
petals  bright  red  pencilled  with  deep  crimson  ;  valuable  for  its  fine 
habit  and  floriferous  character. 

Of  the  varieties  sent  out  by  Mr.  Turner  in  the  spring  of  1870,  I 
have  a  decided  preference  for  Attraction  (Foster),  Bonnie  Charlie 
(Hoyle),  Claribel  (Foster),  Corsair  (Foster),  Cycle  (Hoyle),  Harold 
(Foster),  Her  Majesty  (Foster),  Heroine  (Foster),  Maid  of  Honour 
(Foster),  and  Marion  Wilkie  (Hoyle). 

The  Fancy  varieties  which  have  been  sent  out  by  Mr.  Turner 
during  the  last  two  seasons  have  been  wonderfully  good.  They  are 
certainly  a  most  decided  improvement  upon  varieties  of  an  anterior 
date,  and  to  grow  the  older  kinds  now  is  a  sheer  waste  of  house 
room.     The  best  twelve  of  the  newer  sorts  are,  in  my  opinion,  the 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  5 

following,  and  they  combine  a  vigorous  habit  with  flowers  of  superb 
colours  and  quality. 

Agrippa. — A  showy  rose-pink  flower,  of  the  finest  form  aud 
substance. 

Belle  of  the  Season. — Rosy  carmine,  fine  form  and  most  profuse 
in  flowering. 

Brightness. — Deep  rose,  white  throat  and  margin  of  lower  petals  ; 
a  grand  and  telling  variety  for  exhibition,  as  well  as  being  most 
useful  for  the  conservatory. 

Cinderella. — Bright  lilacy  pink,  white  throat  and  margin ;  fine 
form,  habit  good. 

Excelsior. — Top  petals  bright  rosy  crimson,  lower  petals  pale 
rose,  margined  with  white,  white  throat ;  most  desirable  in  every 
respect. 

Fanny  Gair. — Top  petals  deep  rose,  lower  petals  bright  rose, 
with  white  margin,  fine  form  ;  grand  for  exhibition  aud  conservatory 
decoration. 

Lady  Garrington. — Rosy  pink,  light  blotch  on  top  petals,  white 
inai'gin  ;  pretty  and  showy. 

Leotard. — Deep  rose,  whitish  throat  and  margin;  a  fine  exhibition 
aud  conservatory  flower. 

Marmion. — Reddish  carmine,  whitish  throat ;  a  pretty  flower,  of 
large  size  and  fine  substance. 

Mrs.  Mendall. — A  fine  light  flower,  blotched  with  rosy  pink. 

Princess  Tech. — Top  petals  bright  rose,  margined  with  white, 
lower  petals  white  with  pink  spot,  free  bloomer;  fine  for  exhibition  ; 
one  of  the  very  best  sent  out  for  many  years  past. 

Vivandiere. — Dark  rosy  crimson,  light  margin ;  a  fine  flower  ; 
very  free  flowering,  and  therefore  valuable  for  decorative  purposes. 


THE  CULTIVATION  OF  THE  ROSE.— No.  V. 

CLIMBING   EOSES. 

|HE  "  Rose  Mount,"  at  the  Crystal  Palace,  should  present 
higher  attractions  to  rosarians  than  it  has  ever  done 
hitherto,  for  it  cannot  be  questioned  that  the  roses  that 
encircle  the  pavilion  consist  for  the  most  part  of  sorts 
that  have  become  antiquated ;  that  they  are  disposed 
without  taste,  and  that  during  a  great  portion  of  the  year  they  are 
neither  useful  nor  ornamental.  But  he  would  be  a  poor  rosarian  who 
should  learn  nothing  from  a  visit  to  even  that  misused  attraction, 
and  perhaps  the  climbing  roses  would  interest  a  greater  number  of 
connoisseurs  of  roses  than  any  other  particular  feature  of  the  mount. 
There  are  on  the  pavilion  some  glorious  examples  of  the  best  of 
climbing  roses,  and  there  is  considerable  variety  amongst  the  sorts 
that  contribute  to  the  general  effect.  The  ruddy  Boursaults,  the 
delicate  Ayrshires,  and  the  best  of  the  Sempervirens  sectiou,  here 
present  themselves  in  most  creditable  condition,  clothing  the  trellises 


6  THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

to  the  very  summit,  and  in  their  season  sheeting  them  with  flowers. 
I  know  not  whether  it  is  owing  to  the  proximity  of  the  Crystal 
Palace  as  a  determining  influence,  hut  Boursault  roses,  for  some- 
reason  or  other,  abound  more  in  Sydenham  than  in  any  other  place- 
within  my  knowledge,  and  I  speak  as  a  frequent  and  an  observant 
traveller.  Everywhere  the  walls  of  pretty  villas  are  smothered  with 
the  rich  purplish-crimson  or  brilliant  rose-coloured  flowers  of  this 
best  of  wall  roses  ;  the  soil  suits  them,  the  owners  care  for  them,  and 
the  rose-loving  rambler  shares  in  the  delight. 

If  we  could  make  a  general  survey  of  all  the  wall,  pillar,  and 
pavilion  roses  in  the  country,  I  fear  we  should  have  to  report  of 
them  in  an  unsatisfactory  manner.  Generally  speaking,  this  class  of 
roses  is  badly  treated.  Those  who  know  how,  oftentimes  neglect  to 
apply  their  knowledge,  from  a  foolish  disrespect  they  entertain  for 
roses  that  are  of  no  value  for  their  individual  flowers.  Those  who 
do  not  know,  generally  conclude  that  pruning  them  with  a  knife  and 
fork  will  be  the  right  thing,  and  that  as  to  other  matters  the  wall 
roses  will  take  care  of  themselves.  It  may  be  well  to  say  a  word  to 
both  classes.  Those  who  affect  to  despise  these  roses  because  of 
their  familiarity  with  the  wonders  of  the  rose  garden  proper,  play  a 
foolish  part.  Once  admit  that  walls  and  trellises  must  be  clothed, 
and  that  certain  roses  are  adapted  to  afford  the  desired  covering,  and 
it  follows  that  he  who  gives  his  mind  and  hands  cheerfully  to  the 
task  of  growing  them  properly,  obeys  the  dictates  of  sound  sense 
and  good  taste  ;  and  he  who  would  despise  them  or  act  as  if  they 
were  unworthy  of  his  attention,  deserves  rebuke  for  a  shallow  pre- 
tender, and  one  who  in  his  supposed  affluence  of  knowledge  has  yet 
everything  to  learn.  To  the  more  modest  ones  who  would  do  well 
for  their  climbing  roses  if  they  only  knew  how,  we  shall  speak  more- 
kindly  and  communicatively.  To  them,  indeed,  is  addressed  all  that 
follows. 

As  to  climbing  roses  in  general,  it  must  be  understood  that  our 
first  business  is  to  make  sure  that  they  will  grow.  It  is  in  this  first 
stage  that  many  a  climbing  rose  is  irretrievably  ruined,  and  made  a 
ghost  of  for  the  disgrace  of  the  wall  it  clings  to  like  a  shadow.  Tou 
cannot  have  too  much  vigour  in  a  climbing  rose,  and  therefore  you 
cannot  be  too  liberal  in  your  mode  of  planting.  A  deep  strong  loam 
is  the  proper  bed,  but  this  bed  should  be  broken  up  over  one  square 
yard  of  space  at  least,  and  a  liberal  allowance  of  fat  manure  well 
dug  into  it.  When  planted  in  such  a  bed,  a  climbing  rose  will  be 
pretty  sure  to  grow,  but  if  simply  stuck  in  a  hole,  it  will  be  pretty 
sure  to  stand  still  until  death  takes  kindly  charge  to  make  an  end  of 
its  miseries. 

In  dry,  chalky,  and  sandy  districts,  rampant  rosec  are  commonly 
starved,  and  make  but  a  poor  return  for  the  space  afforded  them.  It 
is  in  their  nature  to  require  substantial  nourishment,  and  if  that  can- 
not be  provided  it  is  a  folly  to  plant  them.  If,  however,  any  one- 
dwelling  in  a  district  where  the  soil  is  of  this  hot,  starving  character 
would  "  make  an  effort  "  to  produce  a  bower  of  roses,  my  advice  to 
such  an  one  would  be  to  prepare,  by  diligent  labour,  the  nearest  pos- 
sible resemblance  to  a  rich  loam,  and  to  make  an  extra  large  bed,  say, 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND   GARDEN   GUIDE.  7 

two  or  three  yards  square  and  fall  one  yard  deep,  for  every  one  of  the 
climbing  roses.  As  for  the  imitation,  it  may  be  that  a  few  loads  of 
clay  can  be  obtained  ;  to  this  may  be  added  good  manure  and  some 
part  of  the  staple  soil  of  the  spot,  muck  from  the  bottom  of  a  pond 
or  ditch  would  be  invaluable  in  such  a  case,  and  something  might  be 
done  by  collecting  the  trimmings  of  turf  that  are  made  when  roads 
are  repaired.  Having  made  a  fair  beginning  with  a  view  to  plant, 
you  will  have  to  encounter  the  grave  question  of  the  best  sorts 
for  particular  purposes.  We  first  take  into  consideration  the  best 
sorts  for — 

Wall  Roses. — If  the  walls  are  high,  and  great  sheets  of  bloom 
are  required,  there  are  really  but  few  sorts  to  make  selection  from. 
The  finest  wall  rose  in  the  world  is  Laura  Davoust,  the  representa- 
tive of  the  "  multiflora  "  section,  but  it  is  tender,  and  therefore  we 
may  as  well  at  once  fix  its  habitat,  which  should  be  a  south  or  west 
wall  in  the  southern  parts  of  these  islands.  The  most  generally  use- 
ful of  wall  roses  are  Boursault  Crimson,  purple-crimson ;  Boursault 
Gracilis,  purple-rose ;  Boursault  lnermis,  brilliant  rose ;  Hybrid 
Perpetual  Bed  Rover,  fiery  crimson ;  Sempervirens  Myriantlies,  pale 
pink  ;  Sempervirens  Princess  Louise,  creamy  white.  None  of  these 
have  any  quality,  but  they  are  rich  in  rustic  worth.  They  grow 
rapidly,  they  flower  freely,  and  in  the  short  season  of  their  bloom 
they  are  truly  glorious.  Happily  any  aspect  and  any  climate  almost 
in  the  home  empire  wdl  suit  them. 

But  can  we  not  have  quality  in  this  department  of  rose-growing 
as  in  others  ?  Yes.  Let  me  therefore  unfold  a  plan  which  I  carried 
out  twenty  years  ago,  which  combined  the  two  features  of  clothing 
a  wall  instantly  and  of  securing  roses  for  the  covering  of  the  finest 
quality  known.  In  the  first  place  I  planted  Boursaults  and  Semper- 
virens at  ten  feet  apart,  and  I  put  a  selection  of  H.P.'s  and  T.'s 
between  them.  They  were  planted  in  a  border  well  prepared,  and 
trained  to  a  wall  fourteen  feet  high.  The  Boursaults  and  Semper- 
virens rushed  up  the  wall,  the  H.P.'s  and  T.'s  climbed  up  it  slowly. 
Of  course  not  many  years  would  have  passed  ere  the  rampant  sorts 
had  smothered  out  the  others,  only  I  stood  by  with  a  terrible  knife, 
and  kept  the  rampants  back,  and  at  last  cut  them  out  altogether, 
root  and  branch,  and  left  the  whole  wall  clothed  with  the  most 
glorious  roses.  For  this  plan  the  best  of  the  quality  sorts  are  the 
following  : — 

Hybrid  Perpetuals  eor  Walls. — Alex.  Bachmeteff,  Anna 
Alexieff,  Anna  de  Diesbach,  Clement  Marot,  Duchess  of  Sutherland, 
Empereur  de  Maroc,  Francoise  Lacharme,  General  Jacqueminot, 
Ipswich  Gem,  Madame  Crapelet,  Maxime,  Olivier  Delhomme,  Paul 
Verdier,  Princess  Mathilde,  Red  Rover,  Queen  a Victoria,  Senateur 
Vaisse,  Wilhelm  Pfitzer. 

Teas  for  Warm  Walls. — Adam,  Climbing  Devoniensis,  Gloire 
de  Dijon,  Goubault,  Leveson  Gower,  Madame  Damaizin,  Madamo 
Willermoz,  Narcisse,  Souvenir  d'un  Ami. 

Noisettes  eor  Walls.  —  Aimee  Vibert  Scandens,  Celine 
Porestier,  Jaune  Desprez,  Lamarque,  Ophirie,  Solfaterre,  Triomphe 
de  Rennes. 


8  THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND   GARDEN   GUIDE. 

In  purchasing  any  of  these  roses,  take  the  hest  care  possible  to 
obtain  them  upon  brier  stocks  or  their  own  roots,  for  Manettis  will 
not  do  at  all,  and  briers  are  scarcely  to  be  desired.  If  they  are  on 
their  own  roots  you  will  have  the  power  at  any  time  to  compel  them 
to  renew  themselves  from  the  very  base,  by  the  simple  process  of 
cutting  them  down,  and  this  may  be  desirable  some  day.  If  upon 
any  stock  you  will  have  no  such  power,  because  if  you  are  driven  to 
an  act  of  amputation  for  the  purpose  of  renewing  the  tree,  the 
stock  will  immediately  send  up  a  host  of  suckers,  and  contend  for  its 
own  renewing  at  the  expense  of  the  rose.  I  should  prefer  to  put 
out  strong  plants  from  pots  in  April  for  the  clothing  of  a  wall,  and 
I  would  buy  them  two  or  three  months  in  advance,  and  keep  them  in 
a  pit  until  within  three  or  four  weeks  of  the  time  of  planting,  when 
to  prepare  them  they  should  be  put  in  the  open  air  in  a  sheltered 
spot. 

To  describe  the  mode  of  planting  would  be  to  waste  the  space  at 
our  command.  But  I  shall  say  this,  that  I  would  not  prune  away  one 
inch  of  any  climbing  rose  at  the  time  of  planting,  but  would  spread 
out  all  the  shoots,  and  train  them  carefully,  even  if  I  did  not  mean 
to  keep  one  of  them.  By  this  procedure  I  should  secure  a  free 
growth  of  the  roots,  and  this  would  constitute  the  foundation  of 
success.  In  the  following  month  of  April  I  should  probably  cut 
them  back  severely,  perhaps  leaving  only  one  shoot  its  full  length, 
and  removing  all  the  rest  by  cutting  close  over  the  roots.  The 
result  would  be  several  strong  shoots  from  the  bottom,  from  which  I 
should  select  the  strongest  and  best  placed  and  suppress  the  others. 
Probably  in  the  April  following  I  should  cut  iiway  the  shoot  left 
originally  for  a  fair  beginning,  having  now  better  wood  to  take  its 
place,  and  a  tree  so  vigorous  that  at  any  time  it  would  send  up  new 
shoots  from  the  base  at  the  word  of  command.  I  put  this  procedure 
as  a  probability,  because  it  would  not  profit  the  reader  to  lay  down 
strict  rules.  But  it  may  be  well  to  direct  attention  to  the  fact  that 
the  first  growth  of  climbing  plants  of  all  kinds  is  necessarily  weak, 
and  never  does  acquire  such  robustness  as  will  be  found  in  shoots 
subsequently  thrown  up  from  the  roots.  Therefore  in  all  probability 
the  course  of  treatment  above  sketched  out  would  be  the  best  in 
any  ninety  out  of  a  hundred  instances,  but  the  last  one  might  afford 
exception  to  the  rule.  As  to  pruning  in  general,  and  some  other 
matters  of  importance,  we  must  defer  what  we  have  to  say  until  next 
month.  In  case,  however,  this  chapter  should  appear  incomplete  if 
I  omit  entirely  to  refer  to  the  pruning,  I  shall  close  it  by  saying  that 
climbing  roses  of  all  kinds  require  but  little  systematic  pruning,  and, 
generally  speaking,  if  never  pruned  at  all,  would  grow  and  flower 
more  freely  than  if  hacked  about  by  an  unskilful  hand. 

S.  H. 


THE  FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 


THE  BEGINNER  IN  GEAPE   GEO  WING. 

P.Y   WIlLIAil    COLE, 
Head  Gardener,  Ealing  Park,  Middlesex. 

GBAND  old  theme  is  that  of  grape  growing,  but  in 
dealing  with  the  elementary  part  of  the  question  there 
is  very  little  to  be  said  that  is  new,  and  what  is  new 
has  to  be  so  interwoven  with  the  old  matter,  that  few 
readers  are  able  to  detect  it.  Let  it  be  understood  at 
the  commencement  of  the  few  papers  that  will  from  time  to  time  be 
contributed  to  these  pages,  that  they  will  be  written  for  the  guid- 
ance of  amateurs  and  others  who  are  anxious  to  grow  a  few  grapes, 
but  have  little  or  no  knowledge  of  the  subject,  and  therefore  all  con- 
troversial matters  will  be  avoided  as  much  as  possible  ;  the  discussion 
of  such  matters  as  Extension  versus  Eestrietion,  however  much  it  may 
interest  the  veteran,  is  injurious  to  the  inexperienced,  as  it  perplexes 
them,  and  they  are  left  in  doubt  as  to  the  best  course  to  pursue. 
The  whole  question  of  extension  and  restriction  can  be  disposed 
of  in  a  few  words,  as  good  crops  can  be,  and  are  grown  by  both 
systems,  and  either  can  be  adopted  with  the  utmost  certainty  of 
success,  provided  the  vines  are  otherwise  managed  in  a  proper 
manner.  Eor  the  reasons  stated  above,  it  will  be  necessary  to  deal 
more  fully  with  the  minor  details  than  would  otherwise  be  desirable, 
and  the  instructions  will  be  framed  in  the  plainest  manner  possible. 
Acting  upon  Mrs.  Glass's  principle  of  first  catching  the  hare,  we 
will  commence  with  a  short  chapter  on 

PROPAGATING   THE    YINE. 

The  grape  vine  can  be  increased  in  various  ways,  but  the  only 
methods  that  we  need  consider  are  in  the  case  of  in-door  vines,  by 
eyes  and  inarching,  and  for  out-door  vines  where  the  cultivator  has 
no  glass,  by  cuttings.  For  raising  a  stock  for  planting  a  new 
vinery  or  re-planting  an  old  one,  propagation  by  means  of  the  eyes 
is  by  far  the  best  method,  but  when  it  is  desired  to  add  a  new 
grape  to  an  established  house  of  vines,  'inarching  it  upon  the  vine 
whose  place  it  is  intended  to  occupy,  and  for  that  purpose  it  is  the 
most  desirable  plan  to  adopt. 

Some  varieties  are  not  at  ail  suitable  for  stocks,  such  for  instance 
as  the  Frontignans  and  other  weak  growers,  and  therefore,  before 
inarching  the  variety  it  is  intended  to  introduce,  it  will  be  necessary 
to  consider  whether  it  is  likely  to  do  well  upon  the  vine  that  has  to 
make  way  for  it.  The  stocks  have  more  influence  upon  the  scion 
than  many  people  are  aware,  hence  the  utmost  caution  is  necessary. 
As  a  rule  all  varieties  do  well  upon  the  strong  growers,  but  the  two 
best  for  stocks  are  the  Black  Hamburgh  and  Muscat  of  Alexandria, 
they  will  also  do  very  well  upon  the  Marchioness  of  Hastings  and 
the  Black  Barbarossa,  and  where  they  exist  better  sorts  can  be  put 
upon  them,  but  they  are  certainly  not  so  good  as  the  foregoing. 


10  THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND   GARDEN    GUIDE. 

The  manner  in  which  inarching  is  performed  is  very  simple,  and 
failures  are  next  to  impossible.  About  a  month  before  the  vines 
start  into  growth,  whether  forced  or  not,  is  the  best  time  for  per- 
forming the  operation.  First  of  all,  determine  upon  where  the  scion 
is  to  be  put,  bring  the  two  vines  together  and  form  a  secure  resting- 
place  for  the  pot  in  which  the  young  one  is  growing,  then  shave  off 
a  small  strip  of  bark  from  the  stock  and  a  similar  piece  from  the 
scion,  join  the  two  wounds  together,  and  fasten  them  securely  by 
means  of  strong  yet  soft  matting,  bound  round  firmly.  To  keep  out 
the  air  and  prevent  the  wounds  drying,  put  a  moderate  quantity  of 
grafting  clay  over  the  bandage,  and  finish  it  off"  by  fixing  a  little  moss 
over  the  clay  to  prevent  its  cracking  and  falling  oif.  The  best 
position  for  inarching  the  young  vine  on  the  stock  is  near  the 
bottom  of  the  rafter,  and  some  means  must  be  adopted  to  elevate 
the  pot  in  which  the  latter  is  growing  to  the  desired  height.  The 
young  vine  must  be  cut  back  to  where  the  wood  is  thoroughly 
hardened,  and  about  two  buds  allowed  above  the  junction. 

As  the  old  vine  commences  to  make  new  growth,  the  young 
shoots  towards  the  bottom  must  be  gradually  rubbed  off,  but  the 
shoots  towards  the  top  must  be  allowed  to  remain,  and  a  few  bunches 
of  grapes  left  on  if  desirable.  If,  however,  the  young  vine  is 
attached  to  wood  of  the  previous  year,  the  latter  should  be  pruned 
previously  to  about  four  buds  above  the  intended  junction,  and  the 
young  growth  proceeding  therefrom  constantly  stopped  during  the 
summer  to  prevent  its  robbing  the  young  vine.  The  junction  will 
not  be  effected  so  quickly  when  the  young  vine  is  joined  to  an  old 
rod,  but  it  is  very  objectionable  to  attach  it  to  young  wood  pro- 
ceeding from  an  ugly  spur,  such  as  we  usually  meet  with  on  old 
vines.  The  union  will  be  effected  in  about  six  weeks  after  the 
vines  begin  to  make  'new  growth,  and  as  the  wood  will  swell  very 
rapidly,  the  bandage  must  be  loosened  occasionally  to  prevent  its 
arresting  the  regular  flow  of  the  sap.  Considerable  care  is  requisite 
in  doing  this,  as  they  soon  separate  if  handled  in  a  careless  manner. 
The  best  means  of  preventing  a  mishap  is  to  put  a  piece  of  matting- 
round  them  just  below  and  above  the  wound,  independently  of  that 
which  is  employed  for  holding  them  together,  and  if  all  are  not 
unloosened  at  the  same  time,  it  will  be  almost  impossible  for  an 
accident  to  occur.  The  young  vine  can  be  cut  off  just  below  the 
union,  and  the  pot  removed  as  soon  as  they  grow  together,  or  it  can 
remain  until  the  winter  pruning.  Some  time  after  the  vines  are  at 
rest,  cut  the  old  rod  back  close  to  the  young  one,  and  prune  the 
latter  to  half  its  length,  or  to  within  two  or  three  buds  of  it ;  leave 
according  to  its  strength,  and  whether  the  wood  is  well  or  badly 
ripened,  it  should  in  fact  be  pruned  and  otherwise  managed  in 
exactly  the  same  manner  as  a  young  vine  on  its  own  roots. 

To  increase  vines  by  cuttings,  select  stout  well-ripened  shoots  of 
about  six  inches  in  length,  remove  all  but  the  two  top  eyes  and 
insert  them  at  the  foot  of  a  warm  sunny  wall.  If  inserted  soon 
after  the  commencement  of  the  new  year  few  will  fail,  and  if  properly 
attended  to  during  the  summer  they  will  make  strong  canes  by  the 
end  of  the  season.     Only  one  shoot  should  be  allowed  to  remain  to 


THE   FLORAL   WORLD    AND    GARDEN   GUIDE.  11 

each,  and  the  young  growth  must  be  secured  to  the  wall  by  means 
of  nails  and  shreds  to  prevent  them  being  injured  by  rough  winds. 
They  should  also  be  taken  up  and  replanted  annually,  until  they  are 
put  in  their  permanent  quarters  to  encourage  the  production  of 
short  fibry  roots.  When  left  in  the  same  position  for  several  years 
they  suffer  severely  when  transplanted,  and  very  seldom  make  much 
growth  during  the  first  season. 

To  ensure  the  most  successful  results  in  propagating  vines  from 
eyes,  the  aid  of  a  nice  genial  hot-bed  is  requisite.  The  eyes  will 
strike  without  bottom  heat,  yet  they  strike  much  quicker  when  the 
pots  are  partly  plunged  in  a  hot-bed,  and  a  considerable  saving  of 
time  is  the  result.  Many  grape-growers  strongly  recommend  the 
eyes  to  be  put  in  some  time  in  January,  and  some  advise  their  being 
put  in  in  December,  but  from  many  years'  close  observation  I  am 
convinced  that  eyes  inserted  early  in  March  will  produce  better 
canes  by  the  end  of  the  season  than  those  inserted  in  either  of  the 
foregoing  months.  "When  propagation  is  commenced  too  early,  the 
soil  becomes  rather  sour  by  the  time  the  roots  are  formed,  and 
they  do  not  take  kindly  to  it,  and  the  growth  also  is  weak,  because 
of  the  insufficiency  of  light  for  the  elaboration  of  the  sap.  March 
eyes  start  into  growth  at  once,  and  grow  away  freely.  They  have 
the  assistance  of  an  abundance  of  light,  and  require  less  artificial 
heat. 

Moderately  stout  and  well  matured  wood  should  be  selected 
from  which  the  eyes  are  to  be  taken ;  but  size  is  of  secondary 
consideration,  provided  it  is  well  ripened.  Prepare  the  eyes  by 
cutting  them  with  about  three-quarters  of  an  inch  of  wood  above  and 
also  below  the  bud,  then  shave  off,  in  a  slanting  direction,  a  small 
portion  of  the  wood  at  each  end  on  the  under  side,  and  they  will  be 
ready  for  inserting  in  the  soil.  Each  eye  should  he  potted  sepa- 
rately in  three-inch  pots,  filled  with  a  compost  consisting  of  sandy 
loam,  leaf-mould,  and  a  small  proportion  of  well  decayed  manure. 
Partly  plunge  the  pots  in  a  hot-bed,  and  maintain  the  soil  in  a 
moderately  moist  condition.  A  cucumber  or  melon-frame  suits 
them  admirable,  as  the  atmospheric  moisture  usually  maintained  in 
these  structures  is  eminently  favourable  to  the  production  of  roots 
and  a  vigorous  growth.  The  pots  can  either  be  partly  plunged  in 
the  bed  round  the  mounds  of  soil,  or  they  can  be  placed  upon  the 
surface,  as  may  be  the  most  convenient.  Where  there  is  no  frame  or 
hot-house  in  which  to  place  them,  put  them  in  the  warmest  part  of 
the  greenhouse,  and  where  the  sun  can  shine  upon  the  pots  and 
warm  the  soil.  Even  in  a  greenhouse,  by  giving  them  the  full 
advantage  of  the  warmth  from  the  sun,  and  sprinkling  the  surface 
of  the  soil  with  rather  warm  water  occasionally,  there  will  not  be  any 
difficulty  in  striking  them. 

The  young  vines  must  be  shifted  into  larger  pots  before  they 
become  pot-bound,  or  they  will  experience  a  decided  check.  They 
should  be  put  in  six-inch  pots,  and  soil  of  the  same  temperature  as 
that  of  the  structure  in  which  they  are  grown,  employed.  What 
has  to  be  done  with  them  when  they  arrive  at  this  stage  must  be 
deferred  until  another  occasion. 


12  THE    FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 


THE  DIEFFENBACHIA. 

BY    J.    W.    SILVEB, 

Head  Gardener,  The  Laurels,  Taunton,  Somerset. 

N"  this  genus  we  have  a  very  interesting  class  of  plants, 
whicb,  considering  their  bold  and  ornamental  appear- 
ance, and  usefulness  for  exhibition  and  the  dinner-table, 
do  not  receive  so  much  attention  as  they  deserve.  They 
are,  moreover,  very  easily  managed,  and  all  who  have  a 
stove  may,  by  acting  upon  the  rules  that  will  be  laid  down,  grow 
them  most  successfully.  The  most  essential  conditions  for  ensuring 
well-developed  specimens  are  heat,  moisture,  and  light  and  open 
yet  moderately  rich  compost. 

The  compost  I  have  found  them  succeed  best  in  is  prepared  by 
well  incorporating  together  equal  parts  of  turfy  loam  and  fibry  peat, 
with  an  addition  of  about  one-third  of  nodules  of  charcoal  and  silver- 
sand.  The  peat  and  loam  must  be  chopped  up  in  lumps  the  size  of 
a  hen's  egg  for  small  plants,  and  for  large  specimens  it  should  be 
much  rougher.  In  either  case,  the  finest  of  the  soil  must  be  sifted  from 
it,  as  it  is  quite  impossible  to  grow  them  in  close  stuff  that  will  soon 
run  together  and  become  sour.  A  little  leaf-mould  may  be  added 
with  advantage  to  the  compost  in  which  large  specimens  are  potted. 
Liberal  drainage  is  at  all  times  indispensable,  as  they  require  an 
abundance  of  water  throughout  their  growing  season.  An  ordinary 
stove  temperature,  ranging  in  summer  from  70°  to  75°  by  artificial 
heat,  and  by  sun  heat  from  85°  to  90°,  will  suit  them  well  when 
growing  ;  in  the  season  of  rest  from  58°  to  65°  will  be  quite  sufficient. 
The  most  suitable  position  for  the  plant,  when  in  vigorous 
growth,  is  over  an  open  tank,  and  the  bottom  of  the  pot  should  be 
placed  as  near  the  surface  of  the  water  as  they  possibly  can  be  with- 
out actually  touching,  for  none  of  the  stove  plants  require  more  atmo- 
spheric moisture  than  those  under  consideration.  Erom  March  until 
September  syringe  them  overhead  two  or  three  times  a-day,  and  also 
pour  water  on  the  floor  and  walk  of  the  house  at  the  same  time,  to 
ensure  a  thoroughly  humid  atmosphere.  DuriDg  the  autumn  and 
winter  months  the  supply  of  moisture,  both  at  the  roots  and  over- 
head, must  be  lessened  considerably,  as  it  is  most  injurious  to  main- 
tain them  in  a  growing  state  during  that  period.  At  all  seasons  of 
the  year  place  them  where  they  will  have  the  benefit  of  full  exposure 
to  light,  but  they  must  not  be  exposed  to  brilliant  sunshine  during  the 
summer  season,  or  the  foliage  will  be  injured.  It  is  most  easy  to 
increase  or  keep  up  a  stock.  Commence  by  selecting  an  old  leggy 
plant  that  has  become  unsightly,  and  then  take  off  the  top  with  a 
sufficient  length  of  the  stem  to  admit  of  its  behig  firmly  inserted  in 
the  soil.  It  should  be  potted  singly,  as  the  leading  shoot  invariably 
makes  the  best  plant,  and  at  ail  times  a  large  specimen  may  be 
obtained  more  quickly  than  from  small  side-shoots.  The  remaining 
part  of  the  stem  may  be  cut  into  lengths  of  one  joint  each,  and  placed 
in  a  light  part  of  the  house  for  two  or  three  days  to  enable  the 


THE    FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  13 

wounds  to  heal,  for  when  they  are  inserted  at  once  the  base  is  very- 
liable  to  premature  decay.  After  the  wounds  are  nicely  dried,  the 
cuttings  may  be  placed  in  a  well-drained  pan  filled  with  peaty  soil, 
but  with  an  additional  quantity  of  silver-sand,  similar  to  that  recom- 
mended for  established  plants.  Place  the  pans  in  a  brisk  bottom- 
heat,  keep  the  soil  moderately  moist,  and  they  will  soon  strike  and 
be  ready  for  potting  off.  Cuttings  of  the  stem  generally  produce 
several  shoots,  each  of  which  can,  if  required,  be  taken  off  and 
struck.  Many  cultivators  keep  and  grow  ou  the  old  stools,  but  in 
my  estimation  it  is  a  very  bad  practice  to  do  so,  as  they  require 
very  careful  management  to  induce  them  to  break  satisfactorily ; 
indeed,  in  many  cases  the  cuttings  will  make  larger  plants  and  much 
sooner,  besides  being  much  handsomer.  It  is  also  very  important 
that  the  young  plants  are  not,  under  any  consideration,  repotted 
until  the  pots  in  which  they  are  growing  are  well  filled  with  roots. 

Thanks  to  the  enterprise  of  our  nurserymen  and  others,  there 
are  a  considerable  number  of  sorts  in  cultivation,  but,  instead  of 
enumerating  all,  I  will  give  the  names  of  a  few  of  the  best.  The  best 
four  for  exhibition  are  D.  Feared,  D.  grandis,  D.  Baraquiniana,  and 
D.  (jigantea.  The  best  for  table  decoration  are  D.  Weiri  and  D. 
secjuinia  picta. 


POTATOES. 


TTRIN"Gr  the  past  few  years  the  potato  has  obtained  an 
immense  amount  of  attention,  and  a  considerable 
number  of  new  and  valuable  varieties  have  been  intro- 
duced to  cultivation.  The  interest  in  this  useful  escu- 
lent has  been  so  largely  augmented  that  it  has  actually 
become,  in  many  hands,  a  fancy  article,  and  collections  of  sorts  are 
made  with  as  much  care  as  the  tulip  and  the  dahlia  have  received. 
Our  own  Stoke  Newington  collection  attained  to  extravagant  pro- 
portions. In  1865  we  exhibited  sixty-six  varieties  at  the  Chrysan- 
themum and  Fruit  Show  held  in  the  Guildhall  of  the  City  of  London. 
By  the  close  of  1868  we  had  grown  on  our  trial  ground  no  less  than 
250  sorts.  The  multiplying  of  varieties,  however,  though  of  a 
necessity  a  matter  of  profound  interest  to  the  potato  fancier,  is 
not  enough  to  sustain  the  enthusiasm  which  animates  him  in  his 
pursuit.  The  real  interest,  after  all,  arises  out  of  considerations 
which  society  must  approve,  because  they  tend  to  the  improvement 
of  our  resources  and  of  our  daily  food.  The  fact  is  demonstrable 
that  after  a  certain  number  of  years  the  varieties  lose  their  original 
vigour  and  constitution,  and  hence  in  order  to  keep  the  potato  in 
its  place  in  the  national  dietary,  new  sorts  raised  from  seed — that  is 
to  say,  from  the  potato  plum  or  apple — must  from  time  to  time  be 
taken  into  cultivation,  to  replace  those  that  are  waning  in  character. 
Now  it  is  for  the  immediate  welfare  of  mankind  that  new  sorts 
should  be  produced  and  tested  constantly,  and  the  production  and 


14 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 


the  testing  constitute  two  most  interesting  pursuits,  and  are  the 
life  of  the  potato  fancy.  Lately  considerable  interest  has  been 
excited  by  the  assertion  that  the  proper  way  to  produce  new  sorts 
is  not  by  seed  but  by  grafting ;  a  very  good  kidney  called  Yorkshire 
Hero  being  reported  to  have  been  raised  in  this  manner  by  Mr. 
Almond.  The  first  systematic  account  of  the  grafting  process  was 
made  public  by  Mr.  Taylor,  of  Fencote,  in  the  "  Gardeners'  Maga- 
zine "  of  March  28,  18G8,  and  considerable  discussion  ensued,  in 
the  course  of  which  we  expressed  our  opinion  that  grafting  would 
never  produce  new  varieties,  and  to  this  day  there  is  not  an 
authenticated  case  known,  save  and  except,  we  believe,  that  referred 
to  above,  the  genuineness  of  which  may  be  questioned  without  the 
slightest  imputation  on  the  good  faith  of  Mr.  Almond,  who  no  doubt 


fW^^^IOMmm^ 


WOOD'S    SCAItLET    PEOLIFIC. 


believed  he  had  produced  a  new  variety,  when  probably  he  had 
simply  perpetuated  an  old  one. 

In  America  there  is  as  much  interest  taken  in  potato  culture  as 
in  this  country,  as  may  be  judged  by  the  fact  that  in  1868  Messrs. 
Bliss  and  Son,  of  New  York,  sent  out  the  Early  Rose  potato  at  one 
dollar  per  pound,  and  the  price  rapidly  advanced  to  five  dollars. 
Eighty  bushels  wrere  sold  to  one  party  for  8000  dollars.  Mr.  Bresee, 
the  raiser  of  the  Early  Rose,  actually  sold  fifty  tubers  of  his  King  of 
the  Earlies  at  fifty  dollars  per  tuber,  and  500  dollars  were  offered 
and  refused  for  one  peck  !  Amongst  the  trade  growers,  we  believe 
Messrs.  Sutton,  of  Reading,  may  fairly  claim  to  represent  the 
potato  in  this  country,  for  their  collection  is  one  of  the  largest,  and 
they  exhibit  extensively  at  all  the  great  agricultural  and  horticultural 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 


15 


shows  that  take  place  in  autumn.  At  one  of  tbe  autumnal 
meeting's  at  Kensington  last  year  this  firm  presented  a  collection  of 
fifty  sorts,  and  at  the  Smithfield  Club  Exhibition  in  the  Agricultural 
Hall  they  brought  forward  a  collection  which  we  should  think  com- 
prised nearly  one  hundred  varieties. 

Very  many  experiments  have  been  made  in  the  cultivation  of  the 
potato,  and  in  many  cases  the  results  have  been  of  immense  value 
and  interest.  Contrary  to  the  long-cherished  opinion,  it  has  been 
found  that  better  crops  can  be  grown  with  manure  than  without  it, 
and  the  potato  proves  to  be  similarly  constituted  with  many  other 
plants  in  respect  of  at  least  one  character,  that  it  thrives  best  when 
well  nourished.  A  deep  light  loam  is  the  best  soil  for  this  crop, 
but  we  may  safely  say  that  any  land  on  which  a  tuft  of  groundsel 


buttons'  beeeshiee  eidney. 


will  grow  will  produce  potatoes.  We  are  now  using  a  crop  grown 
last  year  on  a  piece  of  unmitigated  clay,  which  had  been  thrown  out 
in  making  a  foundation,  and  had  no  preparation  whatever.  The 
potatoes  it  produced  were  a  heavy  crop  of  the  finest  quality.  Deep 
digging  and  plentiful  manuring  are,  however,  necessary  prepa- 
ratives, more  especially  as  it  is  desirable  to  promote  a  rapid  growth, 
with  a  view  to  the  removal  of  the  crop  as  early  as  possible.  There 
is  nothing  gained  by  planting  over  close,  in  fact  it  is  better  to  allow 
too  much  room  than  too  little,  but  a  distance  of  four  feet  between 
the  rows,  and  of  three  feet  between  the  sets,  may  be  considered 
sufficient  for  the  productive  main  crop  varieties,  and  half  those 
distances  for  the  comparatively  unproductive  early  sorts.  The 
potato  is  a  most  exhaustive  crop,  for  in  one  ton  of  tubers 
there  will  be  of  potash  11  lbs.,  soda  1  lb.,  lime  |  lb.,  magm>ia 
1  lb.,  sulphuric  acid  4  lbs.,  phosphoric  acid  2£  lbs.,  chlcrine  li  lbs. 


16  THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 

All  good  soils  contain  all  these  ingredients,  but  their  removal  by 
cropping  necessitates  manuring,  and  it  is  evident  that  for  the  potato 
we  require  a  manure  rich  in  potash  and  phosphorus.  Good  stable 
manure  is  the  best  manure  for  potatoes  where  it  can  be  obtained  cheap. 
Guano  is  immensely  beneficial,  but,  generally  speaking,  it  is  too  dear. 
Anew  mineral  manure,  called  "kainit"  peculiarly  rich  in  potash, 
appears  to  be  the  best  for  the  potato  field,  as  it  costs  only  four 
pounds  per  ton,  and  if  dug  in  with  superphosphate  at  the  rate  of  5 
cwt.  per  acre  will  produce  a  crop  three  times  as  heavy  as  the  same 
land  would  produce  without  it,  except  in  those  few  cases  where 
manure  is  not  at  all  required. 

We  have  had  no  potato  plague  since  1866,  when  we  grew  a 
crop  on  tiles,  and  proved  that  in  a  bad  season  this  system  may  be 
depended  on  to  save  the  crop.  We  were  so  fortunate  as  to  obtain 
at  a  pottery  a  tile  admirably  adapted  for  the  purpose,  but  as  it  was 
not  made  for  the  purpose,  we  should  be  doing  our  readers  no 
service  by  directing  them  to  the  makers.  Any  tile  that  can  be 
employed  in  such  a  way  that  the  potatoes  will,  when  planted,  be 
placed  upon  them,  with  a  hollow  tunnel  beneath,  will  answer 
the  purpose.  The  common  roofing  tile  may  be  considered  a  good 
model,  but  it  should  be  double  the  ordinary  size  to  afford  a  fair  test 
of  the  system.  And  here  we  must  remark  that  in  such  a  summer  as 
that  of  1870  tiles  would  be  useless,  and  they  might  indeed  be 
injurious,  though  I  shall  take  care  to  say  that,  judging  from  my 
experiences  in  potato  growing,  they  might  be  always  used  with 
advantage.  However,  the  case  is  as  clear  as  I  can  put  it.  In  1866 
we  had  our  trial-ground  literally  covered  with  heaps  of  filth,  con- 
sisting of  diseased  potatoes.  The  few  rows  grown  on  tiles  were 
sound  and  good,  and  the  cost  of  the  tiles  was  more  than  paid  for. 
In  the  hot  summers  of  1868  and  1870  we  had  no  tiles  in  use,  and 
therefore  obtained  no  experiences  of  the  value  of  tiles  in  hot  and  dry 
seasons. 

Potato  disease !  It  is  one  of  the  greatest  calamities  with  which 
we  are  familiar.  My  tile  system,  whether  good  or  bad,  aims  directly 
at  it  as  a  remedial  or  preventive  agent.  Whence  comes  disease  ? 
From  the  sun  we  may  say.  Tes,  the  potato  disease  may  be 
described  as  cosmical.  If  the  sun  happens  to  be  covered  with  spots 
on  the  disk  next  us  in  July  and  August,  the  potato  fields  are 
ravaged  by  the  murrain.  The  potato  is  peculiarly  the  product  of 
Sunshine :  in  hot,  dry  summers  the  crop  is  good ;  in  cold,  wet 
summers  the  crop  is  bad  ;  if  chilly  rainy  weather  occurs  at  the  end 
of  July,  and  continues  through  August  (as  in  1866),  the  crop  is 
almost  annihilated.  We  make  a  joke  of  the  value  of  an  "  if ;"  but 
if,  yes,  if  we  could  predict  our  seasons,  we  could  in  a  great 
measure  make  sure  of  a  potato  crop  in  good  and  bad  seasons  alike. 
IF  we  knew  a  bad  season  to  be  coming,  we  should  plant  on  tiles 
without  manure,  and  be  content  with  a  smallish  crop,  harvested  in 
good  condition,  but  for  a  good  season  should  dispense  with  the 
tiles,  and  manure  heavily,  so  as  to  make  the  very  most  of  the 
fructifying  sunshine. 

All  other  vital  points  in  potato  culture  may  be   summed  up  in 


THE    FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  17 

four  advices: — 1.  Select  the  best  sorts  obtainable,  without  any- 
timid  consideration  of  price,  but  do  not  for  other  than  fancy  pur- 
poses pay  fancy  prices  for  sorts.  2.  Plant  early,  say  in  February  if 
possible,  but  without  fail  in  March,  and  if  the  tops  are  cut  off  b}r 
frosts  in  May,  take  comfort  that  new  tops  will  appear  almost  imme- 
diately afterwards.  3.  Take  up  just  before  the  haulm  is  com- 
pletely withered,  as  every  day  gained  is  something  towards  the 
certain  saving  of  the  crop,  and  the  roots  are  ripe  before  the  haulm 
is  completely  withered.  4.  Select  for  sets  perfect  tubers,  averaging 
4  oz.  to  6  oz.  in  weight,  and  give  all  the  chats  and  mutilated 
rubbish  that  are  commonly  used  as  ''  seed  "  to  the  pigs.  You  may 
think  these  advices  fanciful,  but  carry  them  out  with  spirit,  and 
instead  of  some  seven  or  eight  tons  per  acre,  you  may  harvest 
fifteen  to  twenty,  which  will  pay  for  extra  cost  and  care.  On  our 
heavy  land  we  obtain  twenty  tons  per  acre  in  a  good  season,  and 
none  at  all  (without  tiles)  in  a  bad  one. 

A    SELECTION    OP    POTATOES    OP    THE    PINEST    QUALITY    IN    THEIR 
SEVERAL    CLASSES. 

Early  Kidneys. — Veitch's  Prolific  Ashleaf,  Royal  Ashleaf, 
Sutton's  Racehorse,  Sandringham. 

Early  Rounds. — "Williams's  Victoria,  Smith's  Early,  or  Cold- 
stream, Early  Cockney,  Early  Goodrich. 

Second  Early  Kidneys. — Mona's  Pride,  Huigh's  Kidney, 
Erin's  Queen,  Yorkshire  Hero. 

Second  Early  Rounds. — Daintree's  Early,  King  of  Potatoes, 
Milky  White,  Early  Pink-eyed  Kemp. 

Main  Crop  Kidneys. —  Webb's  Imperial,  Sutton's  Berkshire 
Kidney,  Belgian  Eluke,  Prince  of  Wales's  Kidney,  Red  Ashleaf. 

Main  Crop  Rounds. — Wood's  Scarlet  Prolific,  Sutton's  Red- 
skin Elourball,  Early  Rose,  Fortyfold,  Wellington,  Paterson's  Vic- 
toria, Bresee's  Prolific. 

Market  Potatoes. — Sutton's  Redskin  Elourball,  Belgian 
Fluke,  Fortyfold,  Skerry  Blue,  White  Rock,  Walker's  Regent, 
Paterson's  Victoria,  Red  Regent,  Webb's  Imperial. 

S.  H. 


A  NOTE  ON"  WATERING  FRUIT  TREES  IN  WINTER. 

BY   A    KENTISH    GARDENER. 

jiT  was  perhaps  a  surprise  to  many  of  the  fruit-growing 
readers  of  the  Floral  World  to  learn  that  the  most 
frequent  cause  of  peach,  nectarine,  cherry,  and  other 
fruit  trees  grown  under  glass,  shedding  their  flower- 
buds  prematurely,  is  due  to  dryness  at  the  roots  when 
they  are  at  rest.  It  is  a  very  common  practice  for  inexperienced 
cultivators  to  keep  the  inside  borders  of  fruit-houses  as  dry  as  it  is 
possible  to  keep  them  during  the  period  between  the  trees  shedding 
their  leaves  until  they  begin  to  make  new  growth  in  the^followiiv 
spring  ;   hence  the  number  of  failures  in  the   cultivation  'of  indoor 

VOL.  VI. — NO.  I.  2 


18  THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 

fruits  that  occur  annually.  It  is  not  necessary  for  us  to  stop  to 
inquire  how  or  from  whence  this  erroneous  impression  originated,  as 
it  is  quite  sufficient  for  us  to  know  that  the  practice  of  keeping  the 
soil  in  which  fruit-trees  are  planted  perfectly  dry  when  the  trees 
are  at  rest,  will  be  resented  by  the  flower-buds  dropping  off  just  as 
the  anxious  cultivator  is  expecting  them  to  expand.  It  is  not  desirable 
that  inside  borders  should  be  kept  in  as  moist  a  condition  during 
the  winter  as  others  in  the  open  air  are  kept  during  the  same 
period,  as  it  may  possibly  be  injurious  to  the  trees;  but  the  soil 
must  be  moderately  moist,  even  when  the  trees  do  not  evince  the 
slightest  symptoms  of  vitality.  Fruit-trees,  iinlike  bulbous  or 
tuberous-rooted  plants,  have  no  vast  storehouse  from  whence  they 
can  receive  support  when  they  are  deprived  of  their  ordinary  sup- 
plies, and  are  therefore  utterly  unable  to  undergo  a  season  of  starva- 
tion without  being  injured  in  some  way. 

A  very  large  quantity  of  water  is  not  required  to  keep  the  inside 
borders  in  a  properly  moist  condition,  and,  generally  speaking,  one 
or  two  thorough  soakings  during  winter  will  be  sufficient.  I  would 
urge  all  fruit-growers  who  have  any  doubts  as  to  the  condition  of 
the  borders  under  their  charge,  to  examine  them  at  once,  and 
water  them  copiously  if  they  are  dry.  If  the  trees  are  in  a 
healthy  state,  and  the  border  from  long  usage  has  become  impo- 
verished, the  drainings  from  the  manure  heap  and  stables  should  be 
used  instead  of  clear  water.  That  obtained  from  the  last-mentioned 
source  should  be  diluted  with  wrater,  for  if  used  too  strong  the  roots 
will  be  injured;  but  the  exact  quantity  that  must  be  added  must  be 
determined  by  its  strength.  The  trees  will  not  receive  any  imme- 
diate benefit  from  the  fertilizing  matter  contained  in  the  liquid 
manure,  but  it  will  enrich,  and  become  thoroughly  assimilated  with 
the  soil,  and  be  of  more  assistance  to  the  trees  when  they  com- 
mence an  active  growth  than  it  would  be  if  applied  to  the  border 
when  they  are  in  full  activity. 

The  foregoing  remarks  are  of  especial  importance  to  the  owner 
of  pot-trees,  which  usually  suffer  more  from  dryness  at  the  root 
than  trees  planted  out  in  a  border.  It  is  by  no  means  an  unusual 
occurrence  to  meet  with  pot-trees  huddled  up  into  one  corner  of  the 
orchard-house,  to  make  way  for  bedding  and  other  plants,  and  then 
utterly  neglected,  if  they  are  not  forgotten  altogether,  until  the 
season  for  starting  them  into  growth  comes  round  again.  Trees  in 
pots  ought  to  be  watered  often  enough  to  prevent  the  soil  becoming 
idust  dry ;  but  fruit-growers  generally  may  save  themselves  much 
trouble  and  vexation  by  taking  pot-trees  into  the  open  air,  and  by 
removing  the  lights  from  houses  in  which  the  trees  are  planted  per- 
manently, as  soon  as  the  crop  is  gathered.  The  rains  and  dews 
assist  in  keeping  under  red-spider  and  other  insect  pests,  and  the 
foliage  is  maintained  in  a  healthy  condition  until  the  last  moment, 
and  the  result  is  fine  plump  buds  which  nothing  but  the  worst 
management  will  cause  to  fall  off  prematurely. 

It  is  not  wise  to  expose  peach  and  nectarine  trees  to  very  severe 
frosts,  such  as  those  which  occurred  in  the  winter  of  1866-7,  and 
therefore,   after   the  commencement   of  the  new  year,  the  lights 


THE   FLORAL   WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  19 

should  be  put  on  again,  and  pot-trees  taken  under  cover,  or  laid  on 
their  sides,  and  a  moderate  thickness  of  litter  thrown  over  them. 
It  will,  perhaps,  be  as  well  to  add,  that  when  in  the  open  air  the 
pots  must  be  protected  with  long  litter  or  leaves  to  prevent  the  frost 
splitting  them. 

If  it  appears  late  in  the  season  to  offer  these  suggestions,  it  must 
be  remembered  that  the  roots  of  orchard-house  trees  do  not  gene- 
rally become  dry  until  January,  and  then  it  is  that  severe  frost  may 
be  expected.  Hence,  perhaps,  this  paper  is  strictly  seasonable,  and 
in  any  case  it  is  better  to  speak  late  than  not  speak  at  all. 


JAPANESE  CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

BY    ROBERT    OUBEIDGE, 

Church  Walk  Nursery,  Stoke  Newington,  N. 

HE  Japaness  Chrysanthemums,  considered  as  "  florists'  " 
flowers,  are  decidedly  inferior  to  the  incurved  varieties, 
which  have  descended  from  the  species  originally  in- 
troduced from  China,  hence  they  do  not  enjoy  the 
popularity  to  which  they  are  so  justly  entitled.  For 
exhibition  purposes  they  are  well-nigh  useless,  because  when  grown 
into  large,  well-trained  specimens,  they  have  not  such  a  finished 
appearance  as  those  belonging  to  the  other  classes,  and  can  hardly 
be  tolerated  ;  but  for  conservatory  decoration,  when  grown  in  a 
natural  manner,  they  are  of  the  utmost  value.  The  flowers  of  most 
of  the  varieties  are  of  the  richest  and  moit  distinct  colours,  and  all 
are  more  or  less  novel  and  fantastic  in  form.  Grown  in  the  manner 
as  here  suggested,  the  flowers  have  a  peculiarly  light  and  elegant 
appearance,  which  is  entirely  wanting  in  all  the  others  ;  and  as  many 
of  them  do  not  flower  until  late  in  the  year,  the  chrysanthemum 
season  can,  with  care,  be  prolonged  very  nearly  until  Christmas. 
They  should  not,  however,  be  grown  exclusively,  or  in  greater  num- 
bers than  the  varieties  belonging  to  the  other  sections,  for  to  pro- 
duce the  best  effect  a  fair  number  of  each  section  must  be  grown. 

The  few  suggestions  respecting  their  cultivation  will  apply  to 
the  large-flowering  varieties  generally,  and  I  would  strongly  advise 
my  readers  to  grow  all  the  plants  intended  for  conservatory  decora- 
tion with  as  little  stopping  and  as  few  stakes  and  ties  as  possible. 
Huge,  closely-trained  specimens  look  very  well  upon  the  exhibition 
stage,  and  it  would  be  waste  of  time  to  say  anything  against  them  ; 
but  they  are  entirely  out  of  place  in  the  conservatory,  for  by  the 
most  skilful  hand  they  cannot  be  arranged  to  produce[such  a  pleasing 
effect  as  a  group  of  untrained  plants  with  about  half-a-dozen  flowers 
upon  each. 

"Where  the  conservatory  is  lofty,  or  where  the  plants  can  be 
placed  on  the  floor,  they  should  be  grown  without  stopping  at  all,  as 
the  flowers  will  be  much  larger  and  of  better  quality  than  those 


20  THE   FLORAL    WOULD    AISD    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

upon    plants   the  growth  of  which  is  pinched  hack  several  times 
during  the  season  to  keep  them  dwarf.     Where,  however,  the  con- 
servatory is  of  the  usual  height,  and  the  plants  have  to  be  placed 
on  stages  several  feet  above  the  ground  level,  it  is  necessary  to  stop 
the  shoots  once  or  twice,  or  the  flowers  will  be  too  far  from  the  eye 
to  admit  of  their  being   seen  with  any  degree  of  comfort.      Early 
propagation    is   only    necessary   when    exhibition     specimens    are 
required,  and  the  first  week  in  March  is  quite  early  enough  to  com- 
mence ;  but  the  work  must  not  be  delayed  after  that  period.     When 
the  cuttings  are  put  in  previous  to  that  date,  a  gentle  bottom-heat 
is   necessary,  and  the  plants  also  become  somewhat  "  leggy  "  and 
leafless  by  the  time  they  come  into  flower.      When,  however,  they 
are  struck  in  March,  the  shelter  of  a  cold  frame  is  all  that  is  neces- 
sary in  the  way   of  shelter ;  and  if  the  plants  are   not   neglected 
during  the  summer,  they  will  be  furnished  with  leaves  down  to  the 
rim  of  the  pot.     Select  healthy  cuttings  of  about  three  inches  in 
length,  remove  the  two  lower  pair  of  leaves,  and  insert  them  in  three- 
inch  pots,  three  or  four  in  each.     Place  the  pots  in  a  cold  frame,  and 
shade  during   bright  sunshine  to  prevent  the  sun  burning  them  ; 
sprinkle  them  lightly  once  a  day,  if  required,  to  prevent  the  leaves 
flagging,  and  they  will  soon  strike  and  be  ready  for  potting  off.      A 
little  air  must  be  admitted  during  warm,   sunny  weather,  after  the 
first  few  days,  to  maintain  a  sweet   atmosphere,  and  the  cuttings 
must  not  be  overwatered,  or  a  large  proportion  will   damp   off.     Pot 
the  cuttings  off  singly  into  three-inch  pots  immediately  they  are  well 
rooted,  and  before  they  become  pot-bound  ;  for  when  the  roots    are 
allowed  to  run  together  before  the  plants  are  separated,  the  young 
and  tender  fibres  are  broken  about,  and  the  plants  receive  a  severe 
check  in  consequence.     They  should  be  kept  in  a  cold  frame,  or  be 
placed  so  that  a  mat  can  be  thrown  over  them  during  frosty  weather. 
But  during  their  stay  in  the  frame  they  must  be  freely  exposed  to 
the  air  to  prevent  the  possibility  of  the  growth  becoming  drawn  up 
weakly.  Nine  and  ten-inch  pots  are  the  most  suitable  sizes  for  flower- 
ing them  in,  and  until  they  are  put  in  these  sizes  they  must  not  on 
any  account  be  allowed  to  become  pot-bound.     Frequent  shifts  are 
not   however    required,   and  for    all  ordinary  purposes  the   plants 
should  be  shifted  into  six-inch  pots,  and  from  thence  into  the  size  in 
which  they  are  to  flower.     The  pots  must  be  clean,  and  sufficient 
crocks,  with  a  layer  of  rough  turfy  soil   over  them,  placed  in  the 
bottom  to  carry  off  the  water  quickly,  and  prevent  the  soil  becoming 
sour  through  remaining  in  a  saturated  condition  for  a  considerable 
length  of   time.       Chrysanthemums    are  not  very  particular   with 
respect  to  the  sort  of  soil  they  are  grown  in,  provided  it  does  not  run 
together ;  but  the  compost  which  suits  them  best  is  one  consisting 
of  turfy  loam  that  has  been  stacked  in  a  heap  for  a  few  months,  two 
parts,  and  incorporated  with  one  part  of  well-decayed  stable  or  hotbed 
manure.    When  they  are  removed  to  the  open,  place  the  pots  upon  a 
bed  of  coal-ashes  to  keep  the  worms  out  of  them  ;   and  to  make  the 
work  of  watering  them  as  light  as  possible,  fill  the  space  between  the 
pots  with  cocoa-nut  fibre  refuse,  or  partly-decayed  leaves.      At  no 
stage  of  their  growth  must  they  be  allowed  to  suffer  from  drought ; 


THE   FLORAL   WORLD  AND    GARDEN   GUIDE.  21 

and  after  they  have  been  in  their  blooming  pots  about  a  fortnight, 
water  alternately  with  weak  liquid  manure,  and  continue  its  use  until 
they  are  taken'  indoors.     The  growth  must  not  be  stopped  more 
than  twice,  if  stopped  at  all,  but,  generally  speaking,  once  will  be 
quite  sufficient,  and  the  last  stopping  should  be  performed  a  few  days 
after  the  plants  are  repotted  for  the  last  time.      When  stopped  once, 
only  pinch  the  growing  point  out  about  a  fortnight  after  the  plants 
are  shifted  into  six-inch  pots.  Except  for  those  which  are  stopped  more 
than  once,  a  single  stake  to  each  is  all  that  is  necessary  ;  but  a 
stout  stake  fixed  in  the  ground  at  the  end  of  each  row,  and  joined 
together  by  means  of  a  stout  piece  of  wire,  to  which  each  plant  can 
be  fastened,  will    be   of   great    service  in  preventing  them   being 
blown  about  and  injured  by  the  wind.     All  but  the  end  or  terminal 
bud   to  each    shoot  must  be  removed  as  soon  as  they  are  large 
enough,  or  the  flowers  will  be  small  in  size  and  poor  in  quality.    The 
plants  should  be  taken  indoors  soon  after  the  middle  of  October, 
and  the  conservatory  must  be  well  ventilated  and  the   atmosphere 
dry  to  preserve  the  freshness  and  beauty  of  the  flowers  as  long  as 
possible.     As  they  go  out  of  flower,  cut  them  down  and  place  in  a 
cold  frame,  to  protect  the  young  growth  from  frost,  or  there  will  be 
a  difficulty  in  securing  a  supply  of  cuttings  for  the  following  season. 
The    names   and   colours    of    twenty-six   of  the    best   of   the 
old   varieties    are   as   follows : — Aurantium,   clear  golden    yellow ; 
Aurora,  bright  orange  yellow ;  Bonle  de   Neigc,  white ;   Chang,  red 
and  orange ;  Clorinde,  crimson,  yellow  centre  ;  Comet,  bright  orange 
yellow  ;   Cromatella,  bright  chrome  or  orange  yellow  ;  Br.  Masters, 
bright  yellow ;  Emperor   of  China,  blush-white  ;    Giant,  pale  lilac  ; 
Grandiflora,  golden  yellow  ;  James  Salter,  clear  lilac  mauve ;  Jupiter, 
amber,  changing  to  buff;  Madame  Godillot,  reddish  brown;  Manda- 
rin, bright  canary  yellow  ;  Nagasaki  Violet,  rosy  violet  with  golden 
disc ;   Negro,    deep    maroon ;  Prince  Satsurna,   bright  yellow ;    Red 
Dragon,  red  chesnut,  tipped  with  yellow  ;  Red  Indian,  Indian  red  ; 
Simon  Delaux,  reddish  bronze  ;  The  Daimio,  pale  pink,  changing  to 
rose  ;  The  Mikado,  golden  yellow  ;  The  Sultan,  rosy  lilac ;   Wizard, 
bright  red  rich  maroon ;  Yellow  Lilac,  rose  lilac  and  lighter  centre, 
curiously  incurved. 


]STOTES     OjN"    PALMS. 

BY    F.    W.    BUBBIDGE, 

Baiklon,  near  Leeds. 


ALMS  are  so  graceful  in  character  and  elegant  in  outline 
that  it  is  impossible  to  speak  too  highly  of  them.  The 
strong-growing  kinds  are  the  most  useful  for  deco- 
ration of  the  stove  and  conservatory,  whilst  for  table 
decoration  small-growing  plumose  species  are  unsurpass- 
able. "When  we  take  into  consideration  the  ease  with  which  they  are 
grown,  it  seems  somewhat  singular  that  they  have  not  hitherto  been 


22  THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

cultivated  more  extensively  in  this  country.  Some  of  tlie  more 
hardy  species  will  grow  readily  in  an  ordinary  sitting-room  without 
any  attention  beyond  giving  them  a  good  supply  of  water  when 
necessary,  and  occasionally  sponging  the  foliage  to  remove  dust  and 
other  impurities.  They  are  admirably  adapted  for  this  purpose,  and 
have  a  more  graceful  appearance  than  the  long-legged,  scraggy  pelar- 
goniums that  are  too  often  met  with  in  such  situations.  It  cer- 
tainly cannot  be  their  price  that  prevents  their  being  more  generally 
grown,  since  many  of  the  most  popular  sorts  are  not  more  expen- 
sive than  the  ordinary  run  of  stove  plants.  Seeds  are  occasionally 
to  be  had,  and  are  sometimes  advertised  in  the  horticultural  periodi- 
cals. Seedlings  may  be  purchased  in  some  of  the  continental  nur- 
series in  the  seed  pots  for  a  trifle,  and  perhaps  our  own  nurserymen 
could  so  supply  them  if  desired.  This  arrangement  would  suit  those 
amateurs  who  have  not  much  money  to  spare  for  plant  buying,  or  who 
like  to  grow  their  own  plants. 

In  sowing  the  seeds  of  such  sorts  as  can  be  procured,  place  them 
regularly  in  well-drained  five-inch  pots,  in  a  mixture  of  fresh  turfy 
loam,  peat,  and  a  little  sand.  The  number  of  seeds  in  a  pot  will 
depend  much  on  their  size,  and  this  may  be  left  entirely  to  the  culti- 
vator. After  they  are  sown,  place  the  pots  in  a  gentle  bottom-heat ; 
if  plunged  in  a  hot-bed  of  leaves,  tan,  or  manure,  so  much  the 
better.  A  newly-made  cucumber  bed  will  be  just  the  place  for 
them.  Some  germinate  in  a  few  weeks,  while  others  remain  months 
before  they  throw  up  their  delicate  green  plumules  above  the  soil. 
Then  comes  the  pleasure  of  watching  their  first  tiny  leaves  unfold, 
and  of  carefully  turning  them  out  and  potting  them,  if  singly,  into 
small  pots,  as  palms  must  not  be  disturbed  at  the  roots  more  than 
can  be  possibly  helped.  Indeed,  if  they  are  turned  out  of  the  pots 
and  the  ball  of  soil  reduced,  and  a  large  proportion  of  the  roots 
trimmed  off"  in  the  same  way  as  many  soft-wooded  plants  are  root- 
pruned,  numbers  of  them  will  perish. 

Palms  should  be  repotted  annually  when  in  a  young  state  and 
growing  vigorously  ;  but  afterwards  once  in  two  years  will  be  quite 
often  enough  ;  and  when  they  attain  a  very  large  size,  a  shift  every 
three  or  four  years  will  be  all  that  they  require.  The  pots  must  be 
drained  efficiently,  as  they  require  liberal  supplies  of  water  at  all 
seasons  of  the  year,  but  more  especially  while  making  their  new 
growth  an  abundance  of  water  is  required.  If  therefore  the  drain- 
age is  ineffective,  the  soil  will  soon  become  sour,  and  the  roots  will 
perish.  Specimens  after  remaining  in  the  same  pots  for  several  years 
should  be  assisted  occasionally  during  the  growing  season  with  weak 
liquid  manure,  but  previous  to  their  becoming  pot-bound  it  will  be 
better  for  them  to  be  watered  with  clear  rain  water,  or  water  that 
has  been  exposed  to  the  atmosphere  some  time  before  it  is  used. 

Sound  turfy  loam,  chopped  up  roughly,  and  a  moderate  quantity 
of  silver  sand  then  mixed  with  it,  forms  a  capital  compost  in  which 
all  the  species  at  present  in  general  cultivation  can  be  satisfactorily 
grown.  Until  quite  recently  palms  were  entirely  neglected  by 
gardeners  generally,  and  by  nurserymen  also,  and  very  few  species  were 
obtainable  in  this  country.     The  public  taste  has,  however,  under- 


THE   FLORAL    WOULD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 


23 


gone  a  change,  and  they  are  now  much  sought  after,  and  in  a  trade 
list  before  me  I  find  that  upwards  of  200  species  can  be  pur- 
chased in  this  country.  All  the  sorts  that  will  be  enumerated  are 
remarkably  beautiful  in  a  young  state,  and  a  moderately  large  collec- 
tion can  be  grown  in  a  medium  sized  house.  I  will  now  glance 
through  the  list,  and  pick  out  a  few  of  the  most  beautiful  and  dis- 
tinct sorts  that  can  be  procured  at  prices  ranging  from  five  shillings 
to  as  many  guineas.  Small  plants  of  the  commoner  sorts  can  be 
had  for  less  than  five  shillings  at  some  of  the  principal  nurseries. 
"The  species  that  I  should  recommend  for  forming  the  nucleus  of  a 
•collection,  so  far  as  means  will  permit,  are  the  following  : — 

Areca  lutescens. — This 
free-growing  palm  is  per- 
haps less  elegant  than 
many  others,  but  in  a 
young  state  it  is  very 
beautiful,  and  the  bright 
yellow  petioles  render  it 
very  effective  when  under 
the  influence  of  artificial 
light. 

Arecarubra. — This  dif- 
fers from  the  preceding  in 
petioles  being  of  a  deep 
brownish  red  colour  in- 
stead of  yellow.  Both 
can  be  grown  successfully 
in  a  warm  greenhouse, 
but  the  former  is  the 
hardiest  of  the  two. 

Calamus  dealbatus. — 
This  is  the  Madagascar 
-Silver  Palm,  and  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  species 
yet  introduced  to  this 
country.  The  leaves  are 
elegantly  pinnate,  glossy 
green  above,  and  silvery 
white  beneath ;  petioles 
brownish,  and  set  with 
slender  spines,  which 
point  backwards.  Should 
be  grown  in  the  stove. 

Calamus  spectabilis. — 
A  most  beautiful-growing  species,  recently  introduced  from  Malacca. 
The  leaves  are  borne  on  green  petioles  set  with  white  spines,  tipped 
with  brown,  elegantly  pinnate,  and  of  bright  green  colour.  Also 
require  a  stove  temperature. 

Chamcedorea  sjteotabilis. — Another  dinner-table  plant  of  elegant 
appearance  ;  leaves  glossy  light  green,  petioles  conspicuous  ;  the  whole 
i)orne  by  a  slender  stem.      Stove  temperature  suits  it  admirably. 


D^EMONOEOPS    ACOIDENS. 


24  THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

Cliamcedorea  graminifolia. — A  slender  stemmed  palm  with  long 
curved  foliage.  Its  delicate  plumose  appearance  renders  it  attrac- 
tive, and  of  great  value  as  a  decorative  plant. 

Ghamcedorea  Wendlandii. — Leaves  deep  glossy  green,  gracefully 
arched,  very  beautiful. 

Chamcerops  JFortunei. — One  of  the  most  handsome  fan  palms  for 
greenhouses,  conservatories,  and  indoor  apartments.  In  sheltered 
situations  it  is  quite  hardy. 

Chamcerops  liumilis. — This  also  is  very  hardy  in  constitution  and 
handsome  in  appearance.  The  leaves  are  fan-shaped,  and  of  a  dull 
green  colour.     This  and  the  preceding  are  now  very  cheap. 

Cocoa  Weddeliana,  syn.  Leopoldina  pidchra. — This  is  of  all  palms 
perhaps  the  most  beautiful.  It  is  of  a  dwarf,  compact  habit,  with 
gracefully  arched  plumose  fronds  of  a  dark  glossy  green  colour.  It 
is  from  Brazil,  and  does  well  in  a  warm  greenhouse.  It  is  one  of 
the  very  best  that  can  be  used  for  dinner-table  decoration,  but  is  at 
present  too  expensive  to  admit  of  its  being  employed  extensively  for 
that  purpose. 

Coryplia  australis. — Although  not  so  beautiful  as  many  of  the 
stove  palms,  this  species  is  very  desirable.  It  is  well  adapted  for  in- 
door apartments,  being  very  neat  in  growth  and  hardy  in  constitution. 

Dcemonorops  accidens. — A  neat-growing  species  of  the  most  grace- 
ful outline,  as  will  be  seen  by  the  accompanying  sketch.  The  leaves 
are  of  a  bright  glossy  green,  and  very  effective  in  appearance  when 
under  the  influence  of  artificial  light.  It  must  have  the  assistance 
of  a  stove  temperature  to  grow  it  satisfactorily. 

Dcemonorops  plumosa.  —  Like  the  preceding,  of  most  elegant 
growth,  and  one  of  the  very  best  palms  for  table  decoration.  It 
requires  stove  temperature. 

Euterpe  edulis. — For  lofty  houses  and  for  table  decoration,  in  a 
young  state,  this  is  one  of  the  most  useful.  The  leaves  are  pinnate 
and  gracefully  arch  outwards.  Well-developed  specimens  four  or 
five  feet  in  height  may  be  grown  in  six  and  eight-inch  pots.  Should 
be  placed  in  the  stove. 

Geonoma  Ghiesbreclitiana. — A  highly  ornamental  species,  with 
irregular  pinnate  foliage  ;  very  elegant.  Requires  the  warmth  of  a 
stove. 

Latania  borbonica. — This  fine  and  well-known  species  is  not  so 
valuable  for  the  table  as  those  of  a  more  plumose  habit  of  growth, 
but  it  is  one  of  the  most  ornamental  and  useful  species  grown  for 
the  conservatory,  vestibule,  and  sitting-room.  The  leaves  are  fan- 
shaped,  spreading,  and  of  a  pleasing  shade  of  light  green. 

Licuala pieltata. — Leaves  dark  glossy  green,  five  or  six  lobed,  the 
lobes  being  toothed  at  the  apex ;  petioles  spinose.  Very  distinct, 
and  well  worthy  of  extensive  cultivation.  Must  be  grown  in  the 
stove. 

Livistonia  australis. — A  beautiful  fan-leaved  species,  well  adapted 
for  the  decoration  of  sitting-rooms  or  as  a  window  plant,  being  of  a 
highly  ornate  character,  and  possessing  a  most  robust  constitution. 
Does  well  in  the  greenhouse. 

.  Malortica  simplex,  syn.  Geonoma  fenestralis. — This  is  a  dwarf  and 


THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 


25 


very  elegant  species,  that  should  be  obtained  if  possible.  It  may- 
be recognized  by  the  slits  at  the  base  of  its  glossy  dark  green  leaves. 
Not  hardy  enough  for  the  greenhouse. 

Martinezia  caryotoefolia. — A  distinct  and  unique  species  of  a 
glaucous  green  colour,  with  irregular  pinna?  and  long  dark  spines  on 
the  petioles.  It  is  of 
compact  habit.  In  some 
nurseries  it  is  known  as 
Martinezia  brassico>folia. 
Must  be  grown  in  the 
stove. 

Ptyclwsperma  excelsa. 
— Very  distinct  in  cha- 
racter, the  leaves  being 
bilobed,  and  closely  re- 
sembling the  tail  of  a  fish. 
Requires  a  stove  tem- 
perature. 

Bhapis  Jlabelliformis, 
foliis  variegata. — This  is 
a  free-growing  species, 
with  dark  glossy  leaves 
striped  with  straw-colour, 
and,  being  very  orna- 
mental in  its  character, 
is  worth  every  attention. 
The  green-leaved  form  is 
also  very  pretty  and  neat- 
growing,  and  well  adapted 
for  sitting-rooms.  It  is 
also  very  cheap,  which  is 
a  matter  of  considerable 
importance  to  most  ama- 
teur horticulturists.  The 
variegated  form  is  as  yet 
very  expensive. 

Seq/'orthia  elegans. — 
Strong-growing  and  effec- 
tive, the  bold  pinnate  leaves  having  a  strikingly  ornamental  appear- 
ance. One  of  the  best  for  the  greenhouse,  and  it  will  grow  vigo- 
rously when  placed  in  the  open  air  during  the  summer. 

Seafurthia  Veitcliii. — This  noble  species  has  the  fine  bold  appear- 
ance of  the  preceding,  but  it  is  far  more  beautiful.  It  is  rather 
new  and  expensive,  and  does  well  in  the  conservatory. 

Thrinax  elegans, — A  beautiful  species,  with  dark  glossy  fan-shaped 
leaves,  borne  on  gracefully  curved  smooth  petioles.  Should  be 
grown  in  the  stove. 

Thrinax  gracile.—A.  distinct  and  very  elegant  member  of  a  well- 
known  and  most  beautiful  genus.  Like  the  preceding,  must  be 
grown  in  the  stove. 

Welfia  regia. — A  distinct  plant,  with  pinnate  foliage  of  a  dark 


LICUALA   PELTATA. 


26  THE    FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 

green  colour,  except  the  youngest  growth,  which  is  of  a  red  or 
crimson  tint.  Very  beautiful,  and  oue  of  the  best  for  table  deco- 
ration.    Requires  the  assistance  of  a  stove  temperature. 


HORTICULTURAL  NOTES. 


j]VERYTHINGr  in  the  horticultural  world  has  been  so 
dull  and  cheerless  duriug  the  last  two  months,  that 
there  is  very  little  of  interest  to  write  about.  It  is 
true  that  during  the  mouth  of  November  we  had  the 
chrysanthemum  shows,  but  they  were  all,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  those  held  at  Bristol  and  Liverpool,  very  much  alike. 
Some  day  or  other  the  managers  of  the  chrysanthemum  societies  in 
and  around  the  metropolis  will,  no  doubt,  follow  the  example  of 
their  brethren  at  the  towns  mentioned  above,  and  invite  ornamental 
leaved  and  miscellaneous  flowering  plants  and  fruit  to  their  exhibi- 
tions. The  importance  of  not  confining  autumn  exhibitions  to 
chrysanthemums  has  already  been  pointed  out  in  these  pages,  there- 
fore I  will  not  occupy  valuable  space  in  going  over  the  same  ground 
again.  There  was  a  great  dearth  of  novelties  at  all  the  exhibitions, 
for  by  the  retirement  of  Mr.  Salter  from  business  through  the 
railway  company  taking  his  nursery,  we  have  lost  one  of  the  very 
best  raisers  of  new  varieties.  The  only  new  varieties  exhibited 
during  the  whole  season  were  a  few  at  the  meeting  of  the  Floral 
Committee  of  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society,  held  in  November, 
and  one  at  the  exhibition  held  at  Stoke  Newington.  For  the  benefit 
of  chrysanthemum  growers  generally  I  herewith  subjoin  the  names 
and  descriptions  of  the  best  sorts  staged  upon  the  occasion  referred 
to.  The  best  of  the  batch  which  came  from  Mr.  Bull,  of  the  King's 
Road,  Chelsea,  was  Jane  Salter,  a  grand  Japanese  variety,  with 
flowers  measuring  about  seven  inches  in  diameter,  and  of  a  pleasing 
shade  of  pink.  Certainly  a  most  valuable  acquisition,  because  of  its 
early-flowering  qualities,  and  therefore  a  fine  companion  to  James 
Salter,  which  is  one  of  the  most  beautifully  coloured  varieties  of  the 
Japanese  section.  The  other  variety  shown  by  Mr.  Bull  was 
Renown,  a  large  finely-incurved  flower  of  a  buff  or  brownish  orange 
colour.  Messrs.  E.  G-,  Henderson  and  Son,  of  St.  John's  Wood, 
had  two  good  Japanese  varieties  that  will  ultimately  become  popular. 
They  were,  Bismarck,  large  and  double,  with  broad  sword-shaped 
florets  of  a  dull  orange  hue ;  and  Erecta  Superba,  a  grand  flower  of 
medium  size,  but  very  full,  and  of  a  rich  rosy  crimson  hue.  At 
Stoke  Newington,  Henry  Little,  Esq.,  of  Cambridge  Park,  Twicken- 
ham, exhibited  a  sport  from  Mrs.  Hufiington,  with  flowers  of  a 
similar  colour  to  Lord  Derby.  The  flowers  are  too  small  to  admit  of 
its  ever  becoming  popular,  but  it  will  nevertheless  be  useful  for  the 
conservatory.  Mr.  Little  is  a  most  devoted  admirer  of  the  chrysan- 
themum, and  cultivates  something  like  300  varieties.  The  whole  of 
the  plants  are  grown  without  stopping  or  training,  and  the  results 


THE    FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  27 

are  plants  that  can  be  grouped  together  in  the  most  effective  manner, 
and  flowers  of*  the  finest  quality.  Mr.  Little  kindly  invited  me  to 
see  his  collection  about  the  middle  of  November  last ;  and  although  I 
have  seen  some  good  displays  of  chrysanthemums  in  private  gardens, 
tbat  in  the  conservatory  at  Cambridge  Park  was  certainly  the 
best. 

Very  few  things  indeed  that  possess  general  interest  were  con- 
tributed to  the  meeting  of  the  Floral  and  Fruit  Committees  of  the 
Royal  Horticultural  Society,  held  in  December.  One  of  the  most 
striking  novelties  was  Selaginella  Martensi  albo-lineata,  exhibited  by 
Messrs.  Perkins  and  Son,  of  Coventry.  It  differs  from  the  species 
in  being  more  elegant  in  growth,  and  the  tips  of  the  young  growth 
are  of  a  creamy  white.  For  dinner-table  decoration,  and  other 
purposes,  it  will  be  held  in  high  esteem  for  many  years  hence.  As 
it  is  of  free  growth,  and  very  easily  propagated,  we  may  soon  look 
for  it  at  a  price  within  the  reach  of  all.  Tree  Carnations  were  toler- 
ably well  represented.  Messrs.  E.  Gr.  Henderson  and  Son  had  a 
small  collection,  but  they  were  unnamed,  and  therefore  did  not 
contribute  much  to  the  edification  of  the  visitors. 

Two  new  tree  carnations — White  Nun,  with  large  and  remarkably 
full  flowers  of  the  purest  white,  combined  with  a  very  vigorous 
habit ;  and  Maiden's  Blush,  with  very  pale  flesh-coloured  flowers  of 
the  finest  form,  and  large  in  size — from  Mr.  W.  Lee,  Arundel,  Sus- 
sex, are  most  decided  acquisitions.  Amaryllis  Spotted  Gem,  from 
Messrs.  Veitch  and  Sons,  King's  Road,  Chelsea,  is  also  deserving  of 
notice,  for  the  flowers  are  large,  of  fine  form,  and  spotted  with 
bright  red  on  a  cream  coloured  ground.  Cyclamens  and  primulas 
were  contributed  in  plenty,  but  they  were  not  in  quality  such  as  to 
require  any  special  notice,  excepting  Cyclamen  persicum  purpureum, 
a  grand  variety,  with  large  flowers  of  the  richest  rose  purple  hue 
and  finest  form.  This  came  from  the  gardens  of  H.  Little,  Esq., 
and  was  awarded  a  first-class  certificate.  Berry-bearing  plants  are 
as  yet  imperfectly  understood,  and,  therefore,  the  fine  collection  of 
Hollies,  Aucubas,  Skimmias,  etc.,  from  Messrs.  Standish  and  Co.,  of 
Ascot,  must  have  honourable  mention  ;  and  also  a  fine  standard 
specimen  of  Capsicum,  Yellow  Gem,  a  large  yellow-fruited  variety,  of 
great  value  for  table-decoration  during  the  winter,  from  Mr.  Robins, 
gardener  to  Sir  E.  C.  Verrison,  Oakley  Park,  Eye,  Suffolk.  The 
head  of  the  plant  was  about  fifteen  inches  in  diameter,  and  upon  a 
clear  stem  of  about  eighteen  inches  in  height,  and  the  large  depen- 
dant orange-coloured  fruit,  seen  from  underneath,  as  it  would  be 
upon  the  table,  had  a  very  effective  appearance. 

Before  the  Fruit  Committee,  Mr.  Chaff,  gardener  to  A.  Smee, 
Esq.,  Carshalton,  had  a  most  magnificent  collection  of  culinary  and 
dessert  apples,  numbering  in  all  twenty-four  dishes,  of  the  highest 
excellence.  The  collection  consisted  of  the  best  sorts  only,  and  the 
names  will  be  found  in  the  selection  of  apples  given  in  the  Floral 
"World  for  last  November.  Mr.  Win.  Paul,  of  Waltham  Cross, 
sent  three  new  seedling  grapes,  and  a  first-class  certificate  was  con- 
ferred upon  a  white  variety  with  large  oval  berries,  and  of  most 
excellent  flavour.     Its  chief  value,  however,  consists  in  its  hanging 


28  THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND   GARDEN    GUIDE. 

well,  of  which  the  plump  condition  of  the  berries  shown  was  a  suf- 
ficient indication.  Perhaps  the  feature  of  the  meeting  of  most  in- 
terest to  amateur  gardeners  was  the  splendid  display  of  Alicante 
grapes,  from  Mr.  Wells,  of  Southend,  grown  in  the  ground  vineries 
of  which  he  is  the  inventor.  The  bunches  were  of  medium  size, 
but  the  berries  were  large  and  of  a  deep  blue-black  colour,  and  the 
flavour  was  most  excellent.  Thirteen  bunches  were  shown,  and 
they  were  stated  to  have  been  all  gathered  from  one  vine,  which 
proves  beyond  doubt  that  good  grapes  can  be  grown  without  the 
aid  of  an  expensive  vinery. 

Amateur  gardeners  have  certainly  no  cause  to  complain  of  the 
lack  of  interest  felt  in  their  welfare. "  Mr.  Looker,  of  the  Norbiton 
Potteries,  Kingston-on-Thames,  the  inventor  of  the  plant  covers, 
figured  and  described  at  page  222  of  last  year's  volume,  has  recently 
invented  a  new  Garden  Prame,  or  ground  vinery,  which,  in  my 
opinion,  is  the  best  combination  of  earthenware  and  glass  that  has 
yet  been  introduced  to  public  notice.  Mr.  Looker,  who  is  one  of 
the  best  amateur  gardeners  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Kingston,  has 
christened  this  invention  the  "  Acme  Garden  Prame  and  Ground 
Vinery ;  "  but  as  no  doubt  a  full  description,  accompanied  with  an 
illustration,  will  shortly  be  given  in  these  pages,  it  is  not  necessary 
to  do  more  here  than  to  announce  its  appearance. 

Speaking  of  inventions  reminds  me  of  "  The  Victoria  Electric 
Thermometer,"  which  has  recently  been  introduced  to  public  notice 
by  Mr.  B.  S.  Williams,  of  the  Victoria  and  Paradise  Nurseries, 
Upper  Holloway.  The  inventor  and  patentee  is  Mr.  G.  Bothnie. 
The  invention  has  an  immense  amount  of  ingenuity  displayed  in  its 
construction.  It  consists  of  a  peculiarly-constructed  balance  ther- 
mometer, which,  when  placed  in  the  conservatory  or  other  structure, 
will,  with  the  assistance  of  a  small  galvanic  battery  and  one  or  two 
wires  communicating  with  an  indoor  apartment,  give  warning  of 
any  change  in  the  temperature.  The  tube  of  the  thermometer  is 
coiled  round  a  central  piece  of  wood  on  which  the  degrees  are 
marked,  and  on  this  is  placed  a  sliding  weight  and  scale  so  as  to 
slide  along  the  top  of  the  graduated  scale,  and  thereby  permit  of  its 
being  balanced  at  any  temperature  that  may  be  required.  Accord- 
ingly, so  long  as  the  temperature  of  the  house  is  equal  to  that 
at  which  the  index  is  set,  the  thermometer  remains  perfectly  quiet, 
but  as  soon  as  it  becomes  either  hotter  or  colder,  it  will  give  warning 
by  ringing  a  bell  fixed  in  the  gardener's  or  other  room  connected 
with  the  instrument  by  means  of  a  wire.  Henceforth,  therefore,  it 
will  be  the  amateur's  own  fault  if  he  is  caught  napping  by  the  frost, 
and  the  bulk  of  his  plants  destroyed,  because  if  the  "  Victoria 
Electric"  thermometer  is  placed  in  the  conservatory,  and  set  at 
40°,  it  will  commence  ringing  the  bell  as  soon  as  the  temperature 
falls  below  that,  and  those  who  have  charge  of  the  structure  will 
know  at  once  that  a  fire  should  be  lighted.  It  will  also  be  very 
valuable  in  warehouses,  as  it  will  give  notice  immediately  the  tempe- 
rature rises  higher  than  that  which  those  in  charge  of  them  may 
consider  safe. 

The  seed  catalogues  are  now  coming  in  very  fast,  and,  as  usual, 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  29 

a  number  of  new  flowers  and  vegetables  are  oftered.  Glancing 
through  the  lists  of  new  vegetables,  I  find  a  few  really  good  things 
that  must  be  noticed.  Heatherside  Rival  and  Blue  Gown  cucumber 
are  both  good  ;  the  former  for  frame-work,  and  the  latter  for  exhi- 
bition. Blue  Gown  is  one  of  the  handsomest  cucumbers  in  cultiva- 
tion, and  the  fruit  averages  twenty-six  inches  in  length,  and  of  a 
uniform  diameter  throughout.  The  Chinese  Mustard  is  a  valuable 
addition  to  our  list  of  salad  plants  ;  the  seed-leaves  are  fully  twice 
the  size,  and  it  is  ready  for  use  two  or  three  days  before  the  mus- 
tard usually  grown.  It  is  also  more  pungent  in  flavour.  ISTew  peas 
are  offered  in  considerable  numbers,  but  the  only  one  I  should  care 
to  speculate  in  is  McLean's  "  Best  of  All  "  It  is  a  wrinkled  variety, 
having  large  well-filled  pods,  and  usually  attaining  a  height  of 
about  two  and  a-half  to  three  feet.  Easte's  Kentish  lnvicta  is  cheap 
and  worth  trying.  It  is  a  round  blue  pea,  said  to  be  earlier  than 
Daniel  O'Rourke,  and  very  prolific.  Why  do  the  raisers,  in  enume- 
rating its  good  qualities,  say,  "  and  being  a  blue  pea,  it  is  superior 
in  flavour  to  any  white  variety,"  when  it  is  well  known  that  blue 
peas  are  decidedly  inferior  in  flavour  to  the  white  varieties  ?  There 
are,  of  course,  people  who  look  upon  blue  peas  as  luxuries,  in  just 
the  same  manner  as  others  prefer  the  watery  taste  of  the  first  earlies 
to  the  sweet,  buttery  taste  of  the  wrinkled  marrow's.  Several  new 
tomatoes  are  also  offered,  but  the  only  claim  they  have  consists  in 
their  being  rather  larger  in  size  than  those  already  in  cultivation  ; 
and  for  exhibition  purposes  will  no  doubt  be  much  appreciated.  The 
most  valuable  new  vegetable  for  exhibition  offered  this  season  is 
Veitch's  Giant  Autumn  Caulijloiver,  which  is  also  of  great  value  for 
the  table.  The  heads  are  of  the  most  gigantic  size,  even  in  out- 
line, and  perfectly  hemispherical,  of  the  purest  white  and  the  finest 
flavour  ;  they  are  well  protected  by  the  leaves,  and  under  ordinary 
cultivation  will  average,  when  perfectly  solid,  twelve  inches  in 
diameter ;  but  by  having  a  little  extra  care  bestowed  upon  them,  they 
may  be  had  much  larger.  People  who  prefer  small  cauliflowers,  can 
easily  overcome  all  difficulty  respecting  the  size  by  planting  them 
rather  close  together.  G.  G. 


THE  GABDEN  GUIDE  EOE  JANUAEY. 

Elowee  Gaeden. — During  the  present  month  very  little  work 
of  importance  can  be  done  in  this  department.  The  lawn  should  be 
thoroughly  swept  and  rolled,  to  keep  a  good  firm  bottom,  and  to 
give  it  a  clean  and  cheerful  appearance.  Gravel  walks  may  now  be 
turned.  This  should  be  done  without  disturbing  the  rough  stuff 
underneath,  for  that  is  not  wanted  on  the  surface.  Walks  when 
first  made  should  always  have  a  sufficient  depth  of  fine  gravel  on  the 
surface  to  admit  of  their  being  turned  over  every  other  year,  if  re- 
quired. By  turning  them  in  a  proper'  and  workmanlike  manner, 
they  can  be  kept  clean  and  in  a  good  condition  for  a  long  time. 

Kitchen  Gabden. — Take  advantage  of  frosty  weather  ,to  wheel 
manure  and  dressings  of  other  materials  on  quarters  from  which  the 


30  THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

crops  are  cleared.  This  is  an  important  matter,  for  it  ruins  walks 
to  wheel  upon  them  when  they  are  wet  and  soft  from  the  frost  and 
rain.  Turn  over  and  mix  together  manure-heaps,  to  assist  the 
decay  of  the  various  components,  and  prepare  them  for  use  without 
further  trouble  when  the  compost  is  wanted  in  the  spring.  Quick 
and  all  other  hedges,  with  the  exception  of  evergreens,  should  be 
cut  and  repaired  without  delay  if  necessary,  so  as  to  leave  as  little 
work  of  this  kind  as  possible  for  succeeding  weeks.  Trenching  and 
ridging  up  unoccupied  quarters  should  be  carried  on  with  activity. 
The  ground  cannot  be  too  rough,  or  too  much  exposed  through  the 
winter.  As  Globe  Artichokes  are  often  injured  by  severe  frost, 
additional  protection  should  be  afforded  the  crowns.  Heap  round 
them  a  good  thickness  of  dry  leaves  or  long  litter,  and  cover  with 
soil  or  coal-ashes,  to  prevent  the  wind  blowing  the  protecting 
materials  about.  Cauliflowers  under  ground  vineries  or  hand-lights 
and  in  frames  should  have  an  abundance  of  air,  whenever  the  state 
of  the  weather  will  admit  of  its  being  given  with  safety.  To  keep 
them  as  hardy  and  as  stocky  as  possible,  take  the  lights  entirely  off 
for  a  few  hours  en  fine  days.  Keep  the  foliage  dry,  and  remove  all 
decayed  leaves  without  delay.  Cover  the  lights  with  mats,  straw 
hurdles,  or  long  litter,  on  frosty  nights. 

Conservatoey. —  As  there  is  necessarily  a  mixed  collection  of 
flowering  plants  in  this  structure  during  the  present  month,  some 
requiring  a  higher  temperature  than  others,  a  little  attention  is  neces- 
sary in  their  disposition  and  arrangement  to  make  all  comfortable. 
Hard-wooded  plants  should  be  arranged  at  the  cool  end,  forced  Bulbs 
and  Primulas,  Justicias,  Euphorbias,  Violets,  Lily  of  the  Valley,  and 
Poinsettias,  should  be  kept  at  the  warmest  end.  "Water  early  in  the 
day,  and  keep  the  atmosphere  dry,  to  prolong  the  beauty  and  fresh- 
ness of  the  plants  in  bloom  as  long  as  possible. 

GnEENHorsE. — Fire-heat  must  be  used  sparingly,  but  the  frost 
must  not  be  allowed  to  enter  any  of  the  houses.  Soft-wooded  plants 
must  be  kept  near  the  glass,  or  they  will  become  weak.  Ericas  to  be 
cleared  of  dead  leaves,  and  have  a  dry  air.  Pelargoniums  for  show  to 
have  their  last  potting  ;  keep  near  the  glass,  and  look  out  for  green-fly. 
Fuchsias  required  in  flower  early  to  be  repotted,  and  have  a  moist 
heat  of  60°  by  day  and  50°  by  night.  Scarlet  geraniums  to  have 
little  or  no  water.  Verbenas  and  petunias  should  be  on  a  top  shelf, 
and  be  kept  tolerably  dry.  If  any  appearance  of  mildew  on  any  of 
the  inmates  of  this  structure,  dust  with  flowers  of  sulphur  imme- 
diately ;  if  any  fly,  fumigate  with  tobacco. 

Forcing. — Vines  to  be  started  at  50°  to  60',  never  higher,  and 
the  syringe  to  be  used  freely  amongst  them.  Peaches  in  bloom  to 
be  kept  well  watered  at  the  roots,  but  maintain  a  dry  atmosphere  to 
keep  the  pollen  dry  and  enable  it  to  perform  its  allotted  functions- 
Pines  in  fruit,  80°  by  day,  65°  by  night ;  shift  succession  pines  at 
the  end  of  the  month.  Figs  will  bear  more  heat  than  any  other 
forced  fruit,  but  too  much  heat  or  too  much  water  will  cause  the 
fruit  to  fall.  Strawberries  to  be  kept  near  the  glass,  and  the  pots  to 
stand  on  a  warm  bottom.  Mushrooms  must  have  a  temperature  of 
55°  to  65°,  and  the  beds  to  be  syringed  frequently  with  tepid  water ; 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  31 

thrust  the  hand  down  to  ascertain  if  the  bed  is  moderately  damp. 
Asparagus,  Sea-kale,  and  Ehubarb  to  be  put  in  for  succession,  and 
to  have  plenty  of  water. 

Pits  and  Frames. — Pot  up  a  few  roots  of  musk  and  mint. 
Commence  propagating  Verbenas,  Heliotropes,  Lobelias,  Salvias, 
Geraniums,  Petunias,  and  Fuchsias.  Sow  in  cold  frame  Cauliflower, 
Broccoli,  Shilling's  Queen  and  Early  York  Cabbage,  Hammersmith, 
Neapolitan,  and  Cos  Lettuce,  and  also  a  few  hardy  annuals  to  flower 
early. 


NOTICES  TO  COEEESPONDENTS. 

Roses. — Rosa  may  cover  the  arches  and  pillars  in  a  few  years,  but  she  cannot 
have  roses  in  the  first  instance  large  enough  to  cover  trellises  twenty  feet  high.  The 
Boursaults  and  Noisettes  will  no  doubt  be  most  valuable  for  the  purpose.  The  best 
climbing  white  is  Miss  Glegg.  The  Sempervirens  and  Ayrshire  roses  are  not  to  be 
despised.  The  boi-ders  should  be  made  ready  by  deep  digging  and  very  liberal 
manuring,  and  the  roses  be  planted  at  once. 

Tree  Mignonette.—  W.  B.  R. — Tree  mignonette  is  the  same  plant  as  we  grow 
in  the  borders  ;  to  make  a  tree  of  it,  grow  it  under  glass,  in  rich  soil  and  a  warm 
moist  atmosphere,  and  train  up  a  single  stem,  which  keep  denuded  of  side-branches. 

Crotons. — Sibson. — You  will  do  no  good  with  them  in  a  cool  greenhouse.  They 
must  have  a  moist  stove  and  generous  treatment,  or  they  will  become  a  nuisance. 

Umbilicus  pendulinus. —  W.  B. — It  is  scarcely  worth  growing,  though  it 
occasions  no  trouble.  We  have  flowered  specimens  in  a  cool  fern-house,  and  found 
them  easy  enough  to  do,  provided  they  never  wanted  water. 

Woodlice,  Rose  Stocks. — R.  B.  Johnson.— The,  woodlice  that  are  destroying 
your  rose  cuttings  under  handlights  must  be  trapped  and  killed.  Scoop  out  a  few 
halves  of  potatoes  or  apples  and  lay  them  hollow  side  downwards  amongst  the  cut- 
tings. Every  morning  take  them  up,  and  you  will  find  numbers  of  the  vermin 
inside  them.  Or  take  a  number  of  thumb-pots  and  fill  them  lightly  with  moss  and 
place  them  among  the  cuttings  without  any  bait  at  all,  and  the  woodlice  will  soon 
take  to  them  for  shelter. 

Fruit  Tree  Suckers. —  W.  R.  B. — You  can  do  nothing  with  the  suckers  of 
apricot  and  pear  trees  that  crop  up  two  or  three  yards  from  the  stems,  but  spud 
them  out,  and  cut  away  the  crowns  or  clusters  of  underground  buds  from  which, 
on  the  upper  side  of  the  roots,  they  will  be  found  to  proceed.  The  pear  tree  may 
be  trained  down  on  the  other  side  of  the  wall,  and  will  probably  bear  good  fruit 
there  ;  but  you  must  expect  a  branch  so  trained  to  die  occasionally. 

W.  C.  H. — The  mushroom-bed  has  probably  become  too  -wet  and  too  cold. 
Make  up  a  fresh  bed,  using  short  dung  only  for  the  new  material,  and  incorporate 
the  whole  of  the  old  bed  with  the  new  material.  The  spawn  will  probably  run 
again  freely,  and  give  you  a  good  crop. 

Amaryllis  and  Liliums,  etc. — Subscriber. — Every  kind  of  bulb  grown  in  a 
pot  should  be  repotted  every  year,  and  have  a  complete  change  of  soil.  There  can 
be  no  better  rule  generally  than  to  repot  at  the  time  when  the  bulbs,  whatever  they 
are,  begin  to  grow  naturally.  Amaryllis  may  be  potted  at  any  time  after  they  have 
had  a  few  week's  rest,  and  if  repotted  in  winter  they  must  have  bottom-heat  to 
start  them  into  growth  ;  they  may  be  easily  subjected  to  any  routine  the  cultivator 
may  adopt,  provided  they  are  well  ripened,  and  have  some  rest,  being  then  quite  dry 
before  being  started  into  growth  again.  We  always  repot  liliums  in  autumn,  and 
keep  them  in  a  cool  pit  all  winter  ;  they  begin  to  grow  in  spring,  and  after  the 
middle  of  April  are  put  out  of  doors  on  a  bed  of  cocoa-nut  fibre  for  the  remainder  of 
the  season. 

Hota  carnosa. — Amateur,  Clapton. — Hoya  carnosa,  a  first-class  climber  for  a 
warm  greenhouse.  The  plant  requires  a  mixture  of  one  part  each  of  fibry  peat, 
silky  loam,  and  pounded  brick,  and  a  half  part  of  silver-sand  and  charcoal  dust. 


32  THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 

During  winter,  keep  rather  dry  and  cool,  say  not  more  than  45°  on  the  average  ;  in 
summer,  it  should  be  exposed  to  all  the  sunshine  ^possible.  This  plant  looks 
charming  when  trained  to  the  roof  above  the  level  of  the  eye. 

Hollyhocks. — R.  Smith,  jun. — Hollyhocks  should  be  planted  in  deep  strong 
loams,  as  they  attain  to  finer  proportions  than  in  light  soils,  but  they  really  are  not 
particular,  provided  the  soil  has  some  substance,  and  is  liberally  manured.  It  is 
quite  true  that  hollyhocks  may  be  grown  as  annuals ;  indeed,  seed  sown  now  could 
be  grown  on  to  flower  well  this  year.  Grafting  hollyhocks  is  not  much  in  favour, 
but  we  have  seen  many  a  fine  show  of  flowers  on  grafted  plants.  To  make  a  good 
job  of  the  grafting,  the  roots  to  be  grafted  on  should  be  cut  so  as  to  be  quite  fresh 
and  plump  when  operated  on,  and  as  soon  as  the  grafts  are  iuserted  and  tied,  they 
must  be  potted  in  thumbs  and  be  plunged  in  a  gentle  moist  heat.  Old  stools  of 
hollyhocks  are  grand  as  garden  ornaments,  but  they  do  not  produce  fine  flowers. 

Hardy  Lilies. — A  Novice. — The  best  time  in  the  whole  year  to  plant  hardy 
lilies  is  the  month  of  September.  But  they  may  be  planted  during  the  present 
month,  with  every  prospect  of  growing  and  flowering  freely,  provided  the  bulbs  are 
not  then  dried  up.  All  bulbs  which  have  soft  coats  and  a  soft  fleshy  consistence 
suffer  much  if  exposed  for  any  length  of  time  to  the  atmosphere.  A  very  good  plan 
to  adopt  would  be  to  obtain  at  once  all  the  bulbs  required  for  the  bed,  and  pot  them 
singly  in  small  pots  in  any  loamy  soil  of  a  mellow  texture,  and  place  them  in  a  cold 
pit  or  frame,  plunged  in  coal  ashes  or  cocoa-nut  fibre  ;  there  let  them  be  till  April, 
and  then  carefully  plant  them  where  they  are  to  remain. 

Destroying  Woodltce.—  W.  S. — There  is  but  one  way  to  deal  with  them,  and 
that  is  to  trap  them,  and  if  this  be  vigilantly  followed  up,  every  woodlouse  may  in 
time  be  destroyed.  Place  near  their  haunts  wooden  boxes  or  flower-pots  filled  with 
dry  moss  amd  lettuce  leaves,  or  slices  of  potato  or  apple  concealed  amongst  the  moss. 
They  will  scent  out  these  dainties,  and  take  up  their  abodes  amongst  the  moss. 
The  traps  should  be  examined  every  morning,  and  the  vermin  found  in  them  should 
be  at  once  killed.  They  will  take  shelter  in  any  place  that  is  dark  and  dry,  and  may 
be  almost  as  easily  trapped  without  baits  as  with  thorn.  We  have  caught  them  in 
the  following  manner  :  Large  sheets  of  bark  were  stripped  off  some  trees  that  had 
been  felled,  and  these  were  laid  hollow  side  downwards  near  the  haunts  of  the  wood- 
lice.  In  the  course  of  a  few  days,  the  bark  was  crowded  underneath,  and  the  vermin 
were  swept  off  it  and  destroyed  wholesale. 

Cutting  Seakai.e. — A.  Young  Gardener. — Seakale  sent  to  market  is  cut  with 
about  an  inch  of  the  root  attached,  to  facilitate  the  carriage  of  it,  and  keeping  the 
heads  together  complete  ;  and  usually  the  roots  are  destroyed  after  forcing,  and  the 
loss  of  an  inch  is  of  no  consequence.  The  regular  market  growers  sow  every  year, 
or  raise  plants  from  root  cuttings  ;  therefore  their  practice  need  not  guide  the  culti- 
vator in  cutting  from  permanent  beds.  In  cutting  from  permanent  beds  it  is  best  to 
pass  the  knife  close  over  the  junction  of  the  stem  with  the  root,  and  generally  speak- 
ing there  is  a  good  inch  of  white  stem  firm  enough  for  the  purpose  of  keeping  the 
heads  complete  until  they  go  into  the  hands  of  the  cook,  who  must  remove  the  root 
part  if  the  gardener  cuts  so  low  as  to  have  any  of  it.  The  advantage  of  this  is  that 
the  buds  of  the  crown  are  left  for  the  next  growth.  But  it  will  not  injure  a  per- 
manent bed  to  cut  deep,  even  to  the  removal  of  an  inch  of  root,  for  the  root  will 
throw  out  crowns  from  any  part,  as  may  be  seen  on  taking  up  an  old  stool,  which 
will  be  found  to  consist  of  several  underground  stems  forking  from  a  depth  of  three 
to  six  inches  from  the  top,  forming  a  series  of  crowns. 

Ferns  from  Spores. — B.  H. — There  is  no  mystery  at  all  in  raising  fern  tfrom 
spores.  The  simplest  way  to  raise  them  is  to  prepare  a  few  shallow  pans  and  bell- 
glasses.  Fill  the  pans  with  very  small  potsherds,  the  top  stratum  to  be  broken  to 
the  size  of  peas.  Over  this  put  about  an  inch  of  a  mixture  consisting  of  equal  parts 
fine  peat  and  silver-sand,  and  water  with  a  fine  rose.  The  water  will  carry  the 
fine  stuff  in  amongst  the  uppermost  crocks,  and  make  a  firm  bed  with  minute  points 
of  crocks  projecting  all  over  ;  sprinkle  the  seed  on  this  surface,  and  put  the  bell- 
glasses  on.  The  proper  place  f  jr  these  pans  is  some  warm  and  rather  dark  part  of 
the  greenhouse,  or  the  cool  part  of  the  stove  will  do.  If  they  must  bo  placed  in  full 
light,  smear  the  glasses  over  with  wet  clay,  to  render  them  semi-opaque.  To  obviate 
the  necessity  of  watering  again,  bed  the  pans  to  the  rim  in  cocoa-nut  fibre,  which 
keep  constantly  moist.  There  are  a  thousand  ways  of  raising  seedling  ferns  if  a 
warm,  damp,  and  rather  dark  place  can  be  found  for  them. 


BROCKWORTH      PARK     PEAR. 


T1IE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND   GARDEN    GUIDE.  33 

THE   BEOCKWOETH    PAEK   PEAE. 

{With  a  Coloured  Illustration.) 

SHE  handsome  pear  here  figured  was  submitted  to  our 
notice  in  September  last  by  Messrs.  Wheeler  and  Son, 
of  Gloucester,  who  described  ifc  as  a  new  variety  raised 
by  Mr.  William  Lawrence,  at  Brockworth  Park,  near 
Gloucester.  There  are  so  many  good  dessert  pears 
available  in  the  early  autumn  months,  that  we  could  not  have 
assigned  this  a  high  place  in  the  list,  unless  we  had  been  quite 
satisfied  of  its  possession  of  features  of  distinguishing  excellence. 
It  needed,  however,  only  a  fair  comparison  with  varieties  with  which 
it  naturally  came  into  competition  to  convince  us  that  the  Brock- 
worth  Park  Pear  is  a  distinct  and  valuable  acquisition,  and  worthy 
of  a  place  in  every  garden  where  first-class  pears  are  held  in  any 
degree  of  esteem.  The  Brockworth  Park  Pear  attains  to  a  large 
size ;  in  form  it  resembles  Louise  Bonne  of  Jersey,  but  differs  from 
that  fruit  in  colour,  being  of  a  clear  yellow,  overspread  with  russet, 
with  a  tinge  of  crimson  next  the  sun.  The  flesh  is  fine  in  texture, 
sweet,  juicy,  and  highly  aromatic.  If  we  were  required  to  indicate 
the  most  distinctive  quality  of  this  pear,  we  should  probably  say 
nothing  of  its  size,  or  beautiful  colour,  or  rich  flavour,  but  refer  to 
its  entire  and  uniform  absence  of  grittiness  as  a  more  distinctive 
quality  than  any  other.  Many  of  our  finest  dessert  pears  are  gritty 
at  the  core  under  some  circumstances,  but  this  appears  to  be  a  true 
melting  pear  under  all  circumstances,  whether  on  the  pear  stock  or 
the  quince,  whether  in  a  good  soil  or  a  bad  one.  Its  season  extends 
through  September  and  October,  when  it  is  the  finest  pear  at  our 
command.  The  tree  is  vigorous  and  hardy,  very  proline,  and  equally 
adapted  to  form  a  bush,  pyramid,  standard,  or  espalier,  according  as 
it  may  be  treated  ;  but  probably  it  will  be  generally  regarded  as  a 
model  pear  for  a  pyramid,  in  consequence  of  its  naturally  regular 
growth,  and  disposition  to  form  fruit-spurs  early.  In  connection 
with  the  figure  of  this  fine  pear,  we  are  enabled  to  present  our 
readers  with  a  practical  paper  on  the  culture  of  the  pear  by  Mr. 
Trussler,  who  has  in  hi3  charge  at  Hoddesdon  a  remarkably  fine 
collection,  consisting  for  the  most  part  of  handsome  pyramids,  the 
management  of  which  is  as  near  perfection  as  can  be  imagined.  We 
agree  with  him  that,  although  fruit  culture  obtains  more  and  more 
attention  every  year  in  this  country,  the  pear  is  still  undervalued, 
for  while  it  must  rank  next  to  the  pine  and  the  grape  as  a  dessert 
fruit,  it  has  the  advantage  of  perfect  hardiness,  and  by  a  judicious 
selection  of  varieties,  it  is  capable  of  embellishing  the  table,  and 
ministering  to  enjoyment  and  health,  for  fully  nine  months  of  the 
year.  Mr.  Trussler's  selection  of  varieties  constitutes  a  valuable 
guide  for  cultivators  who  wish  to  make  or  improve  plantations  of 
dessert  pears.  S.  H. 


VOL.  VI.— NO.  TI. 


33  THE    FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 


DESSEET   PEAES. 

BY    THOMAS     TEXTSSLEK, 

Head  Gardener,  High  Leigh,  Hoddesdon,  Herts. 

^LTHOUGrH  the  Pear  is  unquestionably  the  most  valua- 
ble of  hardy  dessert  fruits,  it  must  be  admitted  it  is 
not  appreciated  to  the  extent  it  should  be,  and  also 
that,  so  far  as  the  majority  of  small  gardens  are  con- 
cerned, its  cultivation  is  at  present  imperfectly  under- 
stood. The  pear  surpasses  the  peach  and  nectarine  in  usefulness, 
and  the  plum  and  apple  in  flavour;  yet,  in  many  gardens,  all  these 
fruits,  at  planting-time,  are  considered  of  the  most  importance. 
Consequently,  the  walls  are  planted  with  the  two  first-named,  and 
the  available  space  in  the  open  quarters  with  the  latter  and  the 
ordinary  bush-fruits  before  the  pears  are  thought  about.  There  are 
many  gardens  in  which  they  are  considered  of  the  first  importance, 
and  I  am  happy  to  say  that  the  number  of  these  gardens  is  rapidly 
increasing;  for,  by  planting  a  judicious  selection  of  sorts,  the  table 
may  be  supplied  with  ripe  fruit  from  July  until  the  following  May. 
The  value  of  the  pear  does  not,  however,  consist  in  the  length  of 
time  it  may  be  had  in  season,  for  it  is  especially  valuable  for  the 
delicious  and  wholesome  character  of  its  fruit,  and  the  extreme 
facility  with  which  good  crops  can  be  produced  in  ordinary  soils  and 
situations,  without  the  assistance  of  a  single  foot  of  wall.  There 
are  numerous  varieties,  the  fruit  of  which  is  improved  when  the 
trees  are  trained  to  a  wall  having  a  favourable  aspect.  Still,  we 
can  select  from  the  immense  number  of  varieties  at  present  procur- 
able in  this  country  more  than  sufficient  for  any  one  garden,  that  do 
well  in  the  open  quarters.  Wherever  the  proper  means  exist  for 
fruit-culture,  all  classes  should  be  fairly  represented ;  but  it  may 
safely  be  said  that  the  pear  should  be  planted  more  extensively,  and 
held  in  higher  regard,  than  it  hitherto  has  been. 

Best  Eokm  or  Teees. — It  would  serve  no  useful  purpose  to  say 
anything  about  either  budding  or  grafting,  because  so  few  amateurs, 
for  reasons  sufficiently  obvious  as  to  require  no  explanation,  would  be 
able  to  act  upon  the  suggestions  which  it  would  be  necessary  to 
offer.  Therefore,  we  will  say  nothing  about  propagation,  but  pro- 
ceed at  once  to  the  consideration  of  the  best  forms  of  trees  to  plant 
in  the  majority  of  gardens.  For  planting  in  the  open  quarters,  we 
have  standards,  pyramids,  espaliers,  bushes,  and  cordons.  Without 
beating  about  the  bush,  I  will  at  once  express  my  preference  for 
pyramids  and  espaliers  ;  the  latter  for  planting  by  the  sides  of  walks 
where  the  garden  is  very  small,  and  the  former  for  gardens  that 
afford  sufficient  space  to  plant  trees  of  larger  size.  Standards  are 
too  large  excepting  for  the  orchard,  and  bushes  and  cordons  are  too 
small  to  be  profitable  anywhere,  considering  the  amount  of  labour 
requisite  to  keep  them  in  order.  Pyramids  take  up  less  room  in 
proportion  to  their  fruit-bearing  capabilities  than  any  other  form ; 
and  as,  excepting  a  stout  stake  to  the  main  stem  when  first  planted, 


THE    FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  35 

neither  stakes  nor  wire  trainers  are  required,  the  expense  of  these 
trainers,  which  to  many  is  a  matter  of  much  importance,  is  avoided. 
In  the  cultivation  of  espalier  trees,  either  stakes  or  wire  trainers 
cannot  be  dispensed  with,  but  the  trees  will  more  than  repay  the 
cost,  especially  as  they  take  up  so  little  space.  Pyramidal  trees  are 
also  much  handsomer  in  appearance ;  and  well-grown  trees  of  many 
of  the  sorts  form  beautiful  objects,  and  are  well  adapted  for  the 
embellishment  of  the  lawn  and  shrubberies.  "When  in  full  bloom, 
they  are  unsurpassed  by  any  of  the  early-flowering  shrubs  and 
trees  ;  but  when,  in  the  autumn,  the  branches  are  borne  down  by 
their  handsome  and,  in  many  instances,  highly-coloured  fruit,  they 
are  unequalled  in  the  beauty  and  grandeur  of  their  appearance. 
In  well-appointed  gardens,  where  there  is  space  sufficient  to  admit 
of  everything  being  kept  in  its  proper  place,  the  fruit-trees  ought  to 
be  strictly  confined  to  departments  set  apart  for  the  fruit  and  vege- 
tables ;  but  with  small  gardens  the  case  is  entirely  different,  and 
there  is  nothing  objectionable  in  having  a  few  handsome  fruit-trees 
upon  the  lawn  or  in  the  shrubbery-borders.  Trees  against  walls  can 
be  trained  with  the  side-branches  spreading  horizontally  from  a  per- 
pendicular main  stem,  or  the  fan  mode  of  training  may  be  adopted. 
Of  the  two,  the  latter  is  the  best,  although  the  trees  do  not  present 
such  an  artistic  appearance. 

Stocks  and  Planting. — Nearly  all  the  best  varieties  do  well 
upon  the  quince  stock  in  naturally  deep  and  fertile  soils  ;  but,  in 
those  of  a  poor,  sandy  nature,  very  few  indeed  do  any  good  upon 
that  stock.  They  make  so  little  wood,  and  bear  so  freely,  that  in  a 
few  years  the  trees  perish.  To  obtain  fully-developed  fruit,  a  healthy 
growth  is  essential ;  hence,  in  all  but  the  richest  soils,  select  trees 
upon  the  pear  stock.  The  trees  will  certainly  require  more  space 
for  their  development,  but  it  must  be  added  that  one  healthy  tree 
will  produce  finer  and  a  larger  quantity  of  fruit  than  two  or  three 
miserable,  half-starved  scrubs.  They  should  be  planted  at  a  distance 
of  about  five  or  six  feet  apart  in  the  open  quarters ;  but  it  is  a 
capital  plan  to  put  a  row  of  trees  on  each  side  of  the  walks  in  the 
kitchen-garden,  at  a  distance  of  about  four  feet  from  them.  The 
space  between  the  walk  and  the  trees  can  be  utilized  by  planting 
such  things  as  lettuces  and  radishes,  which  do  not  impoverish  the 
soil  much  ;  and  they  are  also  most  valuable  for  growing  the  plants 
during  the  summer  that  are  employed  for  the  winter  and  spring 
decoration  of  the  flower-garden. 

In  purchasing  the  trees,  select  healthy  and  well-formed  speci- 
mens ;  and  give  preference  to  those  that  are  strong  enough  to  pro- 
duce a  crop  within  two  or  three  years  after  they  are  planted.  It  is 
no  gain  whatever  to  purchase  small  trees  because  they  are  sixpence 
or  a  shilling  cheaper,  and  then  have  to  wait  two  or  three  years 
longer  before  they  arrive  at  a  bearing  state.  The  really  cheapest 
trees  to  buy  are  those  from  three  to  four  feet  in  height,  moderately 
bushy,  and  ranging  from  four  to  five  years  of  age.  Plant  early  in 
October,  or  as  soon  after  as  may  be  convenient,  as  the  soil  is  then 
warm,  and  the  roots  take  to  it  kindly,  and  soon  become  established. 
They  can,  however,  be  most  successfully  planted  during  February 


36  TIIE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND   GARDEN    GUIDE. 

and  March  ;  but,  unless  the  soil  and  weather  are  unfavourable,  they 
should  be  planted  as  soon  as  possible  after  the  appearance  of  this. 
"Whether  planted  in  the  autumn  or  spring,  they  should  not  be 
pruned  severely  the  same  season.  The  holes  in  which  the  trees  are 
planted  must  not  be  too  deep,  but  they  should  be  large  enough  to 
admit  of  all  the  roots  being  spread  out  regularly.  Previous  to 
putting  the  trees  in  position,  place  a  few  inches  of  well-pulverized 
soil,  or°maiden  loam,  in  the  bottom  of  the  hole,  and  also  cover  the 
roots  with  it  before  filling  in  with  the  ordinary  soil.  Tread  the  soil 
firmly  as  the  filling-in  goes  on,  but  avoid  the  rather  common  but 
bad  practice  of  puddling  the  roots. 

Pkuning. — This  part  of  the  subject  must  now  have  attention, 
but  the  reader  will  not  be  overburdened  with  details,  for  the  fre- 
quent stoppings  of  the  young  wood  during  the  growing  season, 
which  some  writers  recommend  for  pyramids  and  espaliers,  are  not 
only  unnecessary,  but  positively  injurious.  Severe  stopping  en- 
courages the  production  of  a  mass  of  weakly  wood  which  seldom 
becomes  well  ripened,  and  most  frequently  a  large  portion  has  to 
be  removed  at  the  winter  pruning.  To  secure  fine  fruit,  strong 
wood  that  is  as  hard  as  whalebone  must  be  produced;  and  the  best 
means  for  having  well-ripened  wood  is  to  stop  the  youDg  growth 
once  only  during  the  growing  season.  In  ordinary  soils  and  situa- 
tions, the  early  part  of  August  is  the  best  time_  for  stopping,  and 
each  shoot  should  be  shortened  back  to  within  six  or  eight  inches 
of  its  base  ;  then,  instead  of  a  second  growth  being  produced,  the 
lower  buds  will  be  matured,  and  eventually  become  fruit-spurs. 
At  the  winter  pruning,  thin  out  the  previous  season's  growth  where 
it  has  become  too  crowded,  and  shorten  back  the  remaining  shoots 
two  or  three  inches,  according  to  their  length  ;  but,  at  both  summer 
and  winter  pruning,  due  regard  must  be  paid  to  preserving  the  sym- 
metrical appearance  of  the  trees. 

Root-pruning. — Trees  that  have  been  planted  several  years, 
and  have  become  too  luxuriant  to  produce  good  crops,  must  be 
checked  by  root-pruning.  Those  that  have  been  planted  three  or 
four  years  may  have  the  whole  of  their  roots  trimmed  at  one  opera- 
tion ;  but  others  that  have  been  in  the  same  position  a  longer  period 
should  have  one-half  only  pruned,  and  the  remaining  part  the  fol- 
lowing season,  or  they  will  suffer  severely. 

In  some  soils  it  is  necessary  to  root-prune  every  second  or 
third  vear,  and  in  that  case  the  trees  will  become  so  well  furnished 
with  fibrous  roots  that  all  the  roots  can  be  trimmed  at  the  same 
time.  First  of  all,  describe  a  circle  round  the  tree  at  a  distance 
ran^in"  from  twenty  to  thirty  inches  from  the  stem,  according 
to  thelize  of  the  tree.  Then  open  out  a  trench  outside  the  circle, 
half,  or  all  round,  and  chop  off  all  the  roots  close  to  the  side  of  the 
trench,  and  work  the  spade  well  underneath  the  ball  of  soil  to  sever 
all  that  strike  down  into  the  subsoil,  as  they  are  most  frequently 
the  prime  cause  of  unfruitfulness.  Trees  upon  quince  stocks  will 
not  often  require  root-pruning,  aud  so  long  as  those  _ upon  the  pear 
continue  to  produce  good  crops  of  well-flavoured  fruit,  they  should 
be  left  alcne. 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN   GUIDE.  37 

Soil. — Nearly  all  soils  will  grow  good  pears,  excepting  those  of 
a  sandy  character,  and  in  these  the  fruit  frequently  cracks,  and  is 
hard,  and  gritty,  and  deficient  in  juice.  This  part  of  the  subject 
need  not  detain  us  a  moment,  for  it  may  be  said  that  soils  that  will 
grow  good  cabbages  will  grow  good  pears,  and  also  that  when  they 
become  exhausted,  the  usual  means  of  restoring  their  fertility  must 
be  resorted  to. 

Gathering  the  Fruit. — A  word  in  conclusion  with  reference 
to  gathering  the  crops.  It  cannot  be  known  too  widely  that  all 
summer  and  early  autumn  pears  should  be  gathered  a  week  or  ten 
days  before  they  attain  full  maturity,  as  they  are  so  much  finer  in 
flavour  than  when  allowed  to  hang  upon  the  trees  until  they  drop 
off.  Late  pears  must  not  be  gathered  too  early,  or  they  will  shrivel 
and  eat  tough  and  dry.  On  the  other  hand,  they  must  not  be 
exposed  to  frost,  and  should  be  safely  stored  in  the  fruit-room  by 
the  end  of  the  first  week  in  October.  They  are  generally  ready  for 
gathering  when  the  seed  has  become  black,  and  the  stalks  part 
readily  from  the  spur.  As  a  rule,  the  fruit  of  those  that  are  not  fit 
for  the  table  until  February,  and  two  followiug  months,  should  be 
left  upon  the  trees  until  the  last.  It  should  be  handled  very  care- 
fully, and  it  keeps  better  when  spread  out  singly. 

Selection  op  Sorts  for  Pyramids  and  Espaliers. — As 
many  varieties  remain  in  season  for  a  considerable  period,  I  shall, 
to  show  when  they  are  in  perfection,  and  to  avoid  repetition,  classify 
them  as  follows : — Summer  Pears,  to  comprise  those  ripe  in  July 
and  August ;  Autumn,  those  ripe  in  September,  October,  and 
November  ;  Winter,  those  ripe  in  December,  January,  and  February  ; 
and  Spring,  those  that  do  not  wholly  attain  maturity  until  March 
and  April. 

Summer  Pears. — Ananas  de  Courtrai,  Andre  Desportes,  Barbe 
Nelis,  Petit  Muscat,  Beurre  de  l'Assomption,  Citron  des  Cannes, 
Doyenne  d'Ete,  Jargonelle. 

Autumn  Pears. — Belle  Julie,  Autumn  Bergamot,  Camel's  Ber- 
gamot,  Beurre  Bosc,  Beurre  Capiaumont,  Beurre  Deil,  Beurre 
Coubalt,  Beurre  Navez,  Bon  Chretien  (Williams's),  Pitmaston, 
Duchesse  d'Angouleme,  Duchesse  d' Orleans,  Hazel,  Gansel's  Seckle, 
Swan's  Egg. 

Winter  Pears. — Alexandre  Bivort,  Beurre  Berckmans,  Beurre 
Easter,  Beurre  Sterckman,  Broom  Park,  Comte  de  Flandres,  Grand 
Soleil,  Josephine  de  Malines,  Louise  Bonne  of  Jersey,  Knight's 
Monarch,  Winter  Nelis,  Prince  of  Wales,  Huyshe's  Victoria,  Lan- 
gelier's  Victoria,  Zephiriu  Gregoire. 

Spring  Pears.—  Basiner  (De  Jonghe),  Bezi  de  Caen,  Bezi  Mai, 
Colmar  de  Mars,  Madame  Millet  (in  warm  situations),  March 
Bergamot. 


38  THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 

A   NEW   USE   EOB   IYY. 

BY    A    TOWN    AHATETJB. 

AM  now  occupying  a  house  situated  in  a  very  smoky 
locality,  and,  upon  taking  possession  of  it  three  years 
since  last  Michaelmas,  I  was  sorely  puzzled  as  to 
how  I  could  give  the  garden  a  cheerful  appearance. 
Excepting  a  few  half  dead  geraniums,  and  a  few  deci- 
duous shrubs,  such  as  lilacs  and  snowberry  bushes,  it  was  quite  bare. 
I  referred  to  the  back  numbers  of  the  Eloeal  Woblb,  and  read 
with  much  interest  the  various  articles  upon  shrubs  and  trees  that 
thrive  well  in  towns.  But  on  making  my  purchases  of  the  plants 
recommended,  I  had  to  be  content  with  dwarfs,  whereas  I  wanted 
something  six  or  eight  feet  in  height,  that  would  produce  an  imme- 
diate effect.  Necessity  is  said  to  be  the  mother  of  invention,  and 
true  enough  it  was  in  my  case.  Amongst  other  things  recommended 
for  town  gardens  was  the  ivy,  and  knowing  that  when  planted  in 
good  soil  it  grows  at  a  rapid  rate,  the  thought  struck  me  that  a  few 
tall  specimens  could  be  extemporized  with  the  strong-growing 
varieties  that  would  help  to  make  up  for  the  want  of  other  tall 
things.  The  idea  was  no  sooner  moulded  into  shape  in  mind  than 
it  was  carried  out ;  for  an  empty  garden  is  bad  enough  in  the 
country,  where  we  can  look  upon  the  green  trees  and  fields,  but  to 
be  shut  up  in  a  town  without  a  bit  of  greenery  visible  from  the 
window  during  the  winter  is  to  me  a  very  great  punishment. 

Such  a  grand  hit  was  made  in  the  use  of  the  ivy  that  I  cannot 
refrain  from  giving  you  a  few  particulars  respecting  the  way  in  which 
we  went  to  work,  although,  of  course,  the  plan  adopted  is  not  new 
to  you. 

"We  commenced  operations  in  just  the  same  manner  as  we  should 
have  done  had  we  been  about  to  plant  large  hollies,  or  other  ever- 
greens eight  feet  in  height,  and  selected  the  positions  accordingly. 
When  the  positions  for  planting  the  ivy  were  determined  upon,  a 
circle  of  three  feet  in  diameter  was  made  at  each,  and  the  soil  was 
taken  out  to  a  depth  of  three  feet.  About  twenty  inches  of  the  top 
soil  was  of  a  very  good  quality,  and  was  placed  on  one  side  of  the 
hole,  but  the  other  was  light  and  stony,  and  after  taking  out  the 
stones,  we  spread  it  over  the  garden  to  make  up  the  deficiency.  We 
procured  a  few  loads  of  moderately  good  loam,  and  a  cartload  of 
manure  about  three  parts  decayed.  The  soil  was  obtained  from  the 
surface  of  some  ground  a  few  miles  off,  upon  which  building  was  going 
on,  and  it  answered  admirably.  We  mixed  enough  loam  with  a  mode- 
rate quantity  of  manure  to  make  up  for  the  soil  taken  away,  and 
then  filled  the  holes  in  again. 

The  next  step  was  to  procure  the  plants,  and  the  supports  to 
which  they  were  to  be  trained.  We  went  to  a  nursery  a  few  miles 
out  of  town  for  tlie  former,  and  as  preparations  had  been  made  for 
six  groups,  nine  plants  of  the  strongest-growing  form  of  the  common 
English,  and  the  same  number  of  the  Irish  ivy,  were  purchased,  so 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE.  39 

that  three  could  be  planted  in  a  group.  The  supports  for  the  young 
growth  were  purchased  for  a  mere  trifle  at  a  wood-yard  not  far  from 
us,  and  stout  pieces,  with  a  few  projecting  arms  towards  the  top, 
were  selected.  They  were  branches  of  trees  that  were  hardly 
good  enough  for  making  up  into  rustic  chairs,  and  averaged  seven 
inches  in  diameter  at  the  base,  and  were  from  seven  to  nine  feet  in 
length.  The  number  of  supports  was  the  same  as  that  of  the  plants. 
They  were  firmly  fixed  in  the  ground,  in  the  form  of  an  angle,  three 
feet  apart,  then  brought  together  at  the  top,  and  then  secured  in 
that  position  by  means  of  rather  stout  copper  wire.  They  were  of 
course  arranged  so  as  to  give  the  affair  an  air  of  rusticity,  and  towards 
the  bottom  they  were  joined  together  by  means  of  small  branches 
about  an  inch  in  thickness.  Small  larch  poles,  and  a  few  laths,  both 
of  which  can  be  bought  at  any  timber-yard,  are  well  adapted  for 
this  work,  and  are  not  so  expeusive  as  the  supports  we  bought. 

As  soon  as  they  were  properly  fixed,  the  ivies  were  planted  care- 
fully, and  fastened  to  the  woodwork.  A  dry  summer  followed,  and 
each  group  had  a  thorough  soaking  of  water,  suck  as  you  usually 
advise,  and  the  foliage  dashed  overhead  with  clear  water  at  the 
same  time  to  keep  it  clean.  Since  then  the  plants  have  been  able 
to  take  care  of  themselves  with  respect  to  moisture  at  the  roots,  but 
during  the  summer  of  the  last  two  years  a  few  pailfuls  of  water 
have  been  thrown  over  the  foliage  after  I  come  from  the  counting- 
house  of  a  Saturday  afternoon. 

All  the  plants,  with  but  two  exceptions,  and  they  had  the  roots 
injured  in  being  taken  up,  have  grown  with  remarkable  vigour,  and 
four  out  of  the  six  groups  are  a  dense  mass  of  foliage,  and  have  a 
most  effective  appearance,  although  not  so  beautiful  as  they  will  be 
when  they  assume  more  of  an  arborescent  character.  It  is  very 
certain  that  I  could  not  have  obtained  such  delightful  masses  of 
evergreen  foliage  in  such  a  short  time  for  the  same  cost  as  those  of 
the  ivy,  and  therefore  have  just  cause  to  be  proud  of  my  work. 
Much  of  the  success  is  undoubtedly  due  to  the  careful  preparation 
of  the  soil,  and  the  waterings  the  plants  have  had  since  they  were 
put  out  in  their  present  quarters. 


The  Maple  Leaf. — The  representative  plant  and  badge  of  Canada  is  said  by 
the  "  American  Horticulturist"  to  be  the  Maple  Leaf,  as  is  told  in  the  national  song 
of  that  dominion  : — 

"  On  merry  England's  far-famed  land 
May  kind  Heaven  sweetly  smile  ; 
God  bless  old  Scotland  evermore, 

And  Ireland's  Emerald  Isle  ; 
Then  swell  the  song,  both  load  and  long, 

Till  rocks  and  forests  quiver — 
God  save  our  Queen,  and  Heaven  bless 
The  Maple  leaf  for  ever  ? 

The  Maple  leaf,  the  Maple  leaf, 

The  Maple  leaf  for  ever  ! 
God  save  our  Queen,  and  Heaven  bless 
The  Maple  leaf  for  ever  !" 


40 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

THE  GAKDEN  PEA. 

NE  of  the  most  important  of  all  our  green  summer  veget- 
ables is  the  Pea,  and  the  esteem  in  which  it  is  held  justi- 
fies the  utmost  liberality  and  spirit  in  its  cultivation. 
The  immense  number  of  varieties  affords  evidence  of  the 
popularity  of  this  most  wholesome  and  savoury  escu- 


"  Macleans  Best  of  All  "  Pea. 

lent,  and  may  suggest  to  the  cultivator  that  some  discrimination  is 
required  in  making  a  selection,  when  only  a  limited  number  of 
varieties  is  intended  to  be  grown.  It  cannot  be  said,  however,  that 
the  varieties   of  latest  introduction  are  wholly  superfluous,  for  in 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 


41 


respect  of  improvement  in  recent  years,  the  pea  has  kept  pace  with 
the  potato,  and  a  number  of  sorts  that  were  held  in  high  esteem 
only  from  ten  to  twenty  years  ago — to  go  back  no  further — have 
been  quite  superseded  by  later  sorts  of  extraordinary  fine  quality. 
A  large  proportion  of  the  finest  garden  peas  in  cultivation  were 
raised  by  systematic  cross  breeding  by  the  late  Dr.  Maclean,  of 


Easte's  Kentisii  Invicta. 


Colchester,  who  devoted  many  years  of  his  valuable  life  to  this 
interesting  and  useful  labour.  Another  successful  worker,  who  has 
scarcely  yet  acquired  fame  in  this  department,  is  Mr.  Thomas 
Laxton,  of  Stamford.     Many  of  the  most  celebrated  sorts  of  peas 


42  THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

are  simply  improved  strains  of  old  varieties,  secured  by  careful 
selection  on  the  part  of  the  seed-grower,  and  oftentimes  the  strain 
or  stock  so  secured  acquires  a  character  which  places  it  many 
degrees  in  advance  of  the  market  type,  or  general  average  of  the 
parent.  Hence,  il  is  not  only  important  to  obtain  the  beat  sorts  of 
peas,  but  the  best  strains  or  stocks  of  the  best  varieties. 

The  pea  will  thrive  in  any  soil  of  average  good  quality,  provided 
it  has  good  cultivation.  The  ground  should  be  in  ever}'  case  deeply 
dug,  and  for  all  the  second  early  and  main  crop  sorts  be  liberally 
mauured  ;  the  best  mode  of  employing  the  manure  being  to  lay  it  at 
the  bottom  of  the  trench.  For  the  first  early  sorts  it  is  advisable  to 
manure  less  liberally  than  for  those  that  come  into  pod  later  in  the 
season,  because  a  luxuriant  growth  is  antagonistic  to  precocity  of  pro- 
duction, and  in  the  case  of  the  first  earlies,  the  object  of  the  culti- 
vator is  to  gather  a  dish  at  the  earliest  date  possible,  even  if  the 
plants  are  less  luxurious,  and  therefore  less  productive  than  they 
would  be  if  encouraged  by  heavy  manuring.  It  should  be  under- 
stood, however,  that  although  manuring  does  somewhat  delay  the 
season  of  production,  it  is  scarcely  possible  to  manure  too  liberally 
for  robust-growing  sorts  of  line  quality ;  for  although  the  first 
gathering  from  them  may  be  obtained  less  early  by  a  week  or  so 
than  from  the  same  sorts  grown  on  poor  ground,  yet  in  the  end 
high  cultivation  will  pay  the  best  by  the  superior  quality  and  greater 
quantity  of  the  produce,  and  the  greater  length  of  time  during 
which  the  plants  will  continue  in  bearing. 

Peas  are  highly  nutritive,  and,  when  properly  cooked,  are  as 
wholesome  as  any  vegetable  in  our  gardens.  Being  richer  in  phos- 
phates than  most  other  table  vegetables,  they  are  particularly  adapted 
for  invalids,  and  especially  such  as  are  deficient  of  nervous  energy, 
the  mineral  constituents  of  peas  ministering  directly  to  the  nourish- 
ment of  the  nervous  system.  The  inorganic  elements  amount  to 
about  three  per  cent,  of  the  entire  bulk  in  ripe  peas,  but  in  green 
peas  somewhat  less.  The  principal  inorganic  elements  are  potash 
and  phosphoric  acid,  and  therefore  it  is  only  in  soils  rich  in  potash- 
salts  and  phosphates,  that  peas  can  be  grown  profitably,  unless  by 
liberal  and  systematic  manuring  the  deficiency  of  the  soil  in  those 
essential  elements  is  compensated  for.  The  importance  of  keeping 
the  soil  rich  in  these  ingredients  will  be  understood  when  we  say 
that  one  bushel  of  shelled  peas  contains  about  the  following  quan- 
tities of  the  several  elements,  namely,  of — 

Phosphoric  acid     9  ounces 

Lime   2  „ 

Magnesia    1^  „ 

Potash    10  „ 

The  best  manures  for  this  crop,  after  farmyard  dung,  which  is 
undoubtedly  the  best,  are  guano,  superphosphate,  kainit,  and  gypsum, 
which  may  be  employed  together  in  a  mixture,  and  dug  in  when  the 
ground  is  prepared,  at  the  rate  of  half  a  ton  per  acre.  If  one  compre- 
hensive manure  is  required,  there  is  nothing  better  than  phospho- 
guano,which  may  be  employed  at  the  rate  of  five  cwt.  per  acre  if  dug 


THE    FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  43 

into  the  ground,  or  at  a  fourth  of  that  rate  if  sown  in  the  drills  with 
the  seed,  which  is  the  most  economical  method  of  employing  it. 

The  earliest  peas  should  be  sown  on  ridges,  and  the  main  crops 
in  trenches.  In  other  words,  the  first  earlies  require  the  warmest 
and  driest  position  that  can  be  found  for  them,  and  the  more  luxu- 
riant and  later  sorts  require  heavily  manured  land  in  positious 
favourable  to  the  retention  of  moisture.  In  every  case  close  cropping 
is  to  be  avoided  as  an  unprofitable  procedure,  hence  the  custom  of 
growing  spinach,  and  other  smallish  subjects,  between  early  peas  is 
commendable,  as  necessitating  a  sufficient  space  between  the  rows  of 
peas  to  insure  a  free  circulation  of  air.  The  dwarfest  sorts,  how- 
ever, admit  of  being  sown  in  close  order,  but  the  space  between  the 
rows  must  be  increased  in  a  direct  ratio  with  the  heights  of  the 
varieties.  Our  custom  has  been  to  extend  the  pea  crop  over  the 
largest  extent  of  ground  possible,  so  as  to  have  room  between  the 
rows  for  plantation  of  cabbage,  cauliflower,  and  other  summer  crops, 
the  tallest  sorts  of  peas  being,  fifteen  to  twenty  feet  apart  in  the 
rows,  and  the  dwarfer  sorts  at  least  five  feet.  The  practice  commonly 
prevailing  of  sowing  tall  peas  so  close  that  there  is  scarcely  room 
left  for  the  gathering  of  the  crop  is  simply  a  waste  of  labour,  land, 
and  seed,  for  where  the  vines  mix  aud  entangle  the  produce  is 
miserably  small,  and  if  the  crop  has  to  contend  with  drought  it  soon 
becomes  hopelessly  mildewed. 

In  sowing  the  seed,  drills  two  inches  deep  should  be  drawn  with 
the  hoe  guided  by  the  line,  and  the  seed  sprinkled  in  the  drills  with 
careful  regularity.  The  early  and  wiry-habited  sorts  may  be  sown 
rather  thickly,  but  tall  robust  kinds  should  be  fully  two  inches 
apart.  In  districts  favourable  to  early  production,  the  first  early 
sorts  are  sown  in  November  and  December,  but  in  places  where  the 
soil  is  deep  and  damp,  and  the  climate  unfavourable,  it  is  sheer 
waste  of  labour  to  sow  until  the  middle  of  February  at  the  earliest, 
aud,  generally  speaking,  the  middle  of  March  is  as  early  as  the  seed 
can  be  sown  advantageously.  The  earlier  the  better  everywhere,  of 
course,  but  a  sowing  of  peas  made  a  week  too  soon  will  scarcely  pay 
for  the  ground  it  covers,  hence  in  cold  districts  experienced  culti- 
vators wait  for  favourable  weather,  without  respect  to  the  almanac, 
for  the  good  reason  that  a  late  sowing  that  has  had  no  check  will  in 
the  end  overtake  and  surpass  in  productiveness  earlier  sowings  that 
have  been  two  or  three  times  pinched  by  frost,  or  dessicated  by  the 
east  winds.  Sowings  of  the  second  early  and  main  crop  sorts 
should  be  made  from  the  middle  of  March  to  the  end  of  May, 
according  to  requirements,  and  if  these  are  sown  in  trenches  prepared 
as  for  celery,  at  a  distance  of  about  fifteen  feet  apart,  they  will 
produce  double  the  crop,  aud  last  double  the  time  in  bearing  than 
the  same  sorts  would  if  sown  upon  the  level  in  a  close  piece  with 
only  enough  space  between  for  gathering. 

It  is  of  the  utmost  importance  to  put  stakes  or  rissels  to  peas 
very  soon  after  they  come  through  the  ground,  for  from  the  first 
moment  they  require  support  they  should  have  it.  Even  the  dwarfest 
sorts  will  give  a  better  yield  if  assisted  with  suitable  sticks,  or  a 
couple  of  lengths  of  strong  twine  run  along  on  each  side  to  prevent 


44  THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

them  falling  over.  There  is  nothing  gained  by  staking  peas 
insufficiently,  nor  indeed  by  any  "  skimping"  in  any  part  of  the 
routine  culture  of  this  crop.  Therefore,  if  suitable  stakes  cannot 
be  obtained,  rissels  or  wire  hurdles  should  be  purchased,  and  as 
these  will  last  a  lifetime  if  taken  care  of,  one  outlay  is  sufficient,  and 
that  need  not  be  of  an  extravagant  nature. 

For  all  ordinary  purposes,  about  half-a-dozen  sorts  of  peas  are 
enough  for  any  garden.  But  those  who  make  an  amusement  of 
vegetable  culture  may  grow  fifty  sorts  of  nearly  equal  value,  respect- 
ing which  it  would  be  very  hard  to  say  if  any  one  amongst  them  is 
better  or  worse  than  the  rest.  We  may,  however,  indulge  a  little 
fancy  in  this  matter,  and  prefer  a  score  of  sorts  to  half-a-dozen, 
because  of  the  immense  interest  attaching  to  this  vegetable,  and  the 
variety  of  qualities  to  be  found  in  the  best  sorts  we  have.  We  will 
now  attempt  a  few  selections  to  suit  various  tastes  and  require- 
ments. 

Six  Sorts  foe  Succession. — Sutton's  Ringleader,  3  feet  high : 
Advancer,  3  feet  :  Maclean's  Wonderful,  3  feet :  Yeitch's  Perfection 
(or  Stuart  and  Mien's  Prince,  which  is  a  shade  better,  but  very 
scarce),  3  feet :  Ne  plus  ultra,  6  feet :    British  Queen,  6  feet. 

Twelve  Sorts  for  Succession. — Sutton's  Ringleader,  3  feet : 
Sutton's  Early  Champion,  3  feet :  Laxton's  Supreme,  5  feet  : 
Maclean's  Wonderful,  3 feet:  Princess  Royal,  3  feet:  Champion  of 
England,  5  feet :  Yorkshire  Hero,  2\  feet :  Paradise  Marrow,  5  feet : 
Veiich's  Perfection,  3  feet :  Premier,  4  feet:  British  Queen,  Gleet: 
Ne  plus  ultra,  6  feet. 

Twelve  Varieties,  selected  eor  Quality  only. — Laxton's 
Alpha,  3  feet :  Advancer,  3  feet  :  Laxton's  Quality,  4  feet :  Sutton's 
Invincible  Green  Marrow,  3  feet :  Huntingdonian,  4  feet :  Fortyfold, 
4  feet  :  Maclean's  Best  of  All,  3  feet :  Lord  Palmerston,  2>\  feet  : 
Jersey  Hero,  3  feet  :  Knight's  Dwarf  Green  Marrow,  3  feet :  British 
Queen,  6  feet :   Queen  of  the  Marroivs,  6  feet. 

Six  good  Dwarf  Kinds  suitable  to  grow  without  Stakes. 
— Paste's  Kentish  Lnvicta,  2  feet :  Bishop's  Long  Podded,  2  feet : 
Sutton's  Tom  Thumb,  1  foot :  Maclean's  Little  Gem,  1  foot  (this  is 
the  best  to  grow  in  pots  to  fruit  in  the  cold  frame  or  forcing  house)  : 
Nutting's  No.  1,  2  feet:  Dwarf  Waterloo,  1£  feet:  Peabodg,  1^  feet. 

It  was  a  common  article  of  belief  with  the  gardeners  of  the  last 
generation,  that  to  obtain  good  peas  "you  must  go  up  a  ladder  to 
gather  them."  The  march  of  improvement  has,  however,  altered 
the  case,  and  we  may  now  have  peas  of  the  finest  quality  from  sorts 
that  rise  only  three  to  four  feet.  In  our  selection  above  given  of 
sorts  selected  for  quality,  there  are  only  two  tall  sorts,  and  they 
may  be  very  well  dispensed  with  by  those  who  are  so  circumstanced 
as  not  to  be  able  to  grow  them  properly.  S.  H. 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  45 

BEDDEKS   AND    BEDDING. 

BY   A   HEAD    GAEDENEB. 

PROPAGATING  BEDDING-PLANTS. 

[EABLY  all  the  readers  of  the  Eloral-  "World  being 
more  or  less  interested  in  bedding-plants,  I  intend, 
with  your  permission,  to  offer  a  few  practical  remarks 
on  their  propagation  in  spring,  and  then  enumerate  a 
few  of  the  best  in  the  several  classes.  That  the  notes 
will  be  of  considerable  value  to  those  who  have  not  had  much  prac- 
tical experience  in  plant-propagation,  I  have  no  doubt,  because  the 
furnishing  of  such  a  large  flower-garden  as  the  one  under  my  charge 
has  rendered  it  necessary  that  I  should  pay  much  attention  to 
bedding-plants  of  all  classes.  As  you  know,  we  give  nearly  all  the 
plants  sent  out  every  year  a  thorough  trial,  and  therefore  I  am  able 
to  speak  with  confidence  respecting  the  value  of  the  new,  as  well  as 
of  the  old  and  established  kinds. 

Nearly  all  soft-wooded  plants,  such  as  verbenas,  lobelias,  and 
petunias,  can  be  struck  with  greater  facility  in  the  spring  than  in 
the  autumn,  provided  a  due  amount  of  care  is  exercised  in  their 
preparation  ;  but  it  is  necessary  to  state  that  they  will  not  bear  rougb 
usage  with  impunity  at  this  season  of  the  year.  Cuttings  of  soft 
shoots  strike  more  freely  than  those  that  have  become  hardened  ; 
therefore,  it  is  necessary  to  place  the  stock  plants  in  a  brisk  growing 
temperature,  from  three  to  four  weeks  before  the  work  of  propaga- 
tion is  commenced.  They  should  be  placed  near  the  glass,  to  pre- 
vent the  possibility  of  the  young  growth  being  drawn  up  weakly  ; 
and  if,  at  the  same  time,  the  pots  could  be  placed  upon  a  genial 
bottom-heat,  they  will  start  into  growth  much  quicker.  We  gene- 
rally fill  one  of  our  pits,  which  has  a  four-inch  pipe  round  it,  with 
leaves  that  were  collected  the  previous  autumn,  and  keep  the  tem- 
perature at,  or  about,  65°.  The  pots  are  stood  upon  the  leaves,  and 
the  genial  heat  which  arises  from  them  is  enough  to  warm  the  soil 
sufficiently  to  promote  a  vigorous  root-action  previous  to  the  growth 
of  the  top.  Many  amateurs  do  not  appreciate  the  leaves  which  fall 
from  the  trees  in  the  autumn  according  to  their  value,  and  have 
them  consigned  to  the  rubbish-heap,  instead  of  carefully  storing 
them  away  for  spring  use.  They  are  not  only  useful  for  the  purpose 
here  indicated,  but  they  are  exceedingly  valuable  for  mixing  with 
stable  manure  in  making  up  hot-beds  for  cucumbers,  melons,  and 
propagating  purposes.  A  mixture  of  leaves  and  manure  is  much 
better  than  manure  alone,  as  the  heat  is  given  off  in  a  more  gradual 
manner,  and  consequently  the  beds  do  not  become  exhausted  so 
soon. 

Immediately  the  stock  plants  are  placed  in  a  growing  tempera- 
ture, as  advised  above,  preparations  must  at  once  be  commenced  for 
providing  a  genial  hotbed  for  their  reception.  A  bed  of  leaves  and 
manure,  after  it  has  become  well  sweetened,  is  decidedly  preferable, 
as  it  can  be  employed  for  so  many  purposes,  the  most  important 


46  THE    FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE 

being  raising  seeds  of  early  vegetables,  such  as  cauliflowers,  cabbages, 
and  lettuces,  and  also  for  growing  on  early  melon  and  cucumber- 
plants  before  the  bouses  or  pits  in  whicb  they  are  to  be  grown  are 
in  readiness  for  them.  In  the  preparation  of  the  fermenting  mate- 
rials, care  must  be  taken,  by  frequent  turnings,  to  insure  their 
being  thoroughly  sweetened  before  they  are  made  up  into  a  bed  ; 
and  to  prevent  tbe  possibility  of  the  cuttings  suffering  from  the 
noxious  gases  which  arise  from  improperly  prepared  stable  manure, 
they  should  not  be  put  into  the  frame  until  a  week  after  it  has  been 
put  upon  the  bed.  A  little  air  should  also  be  left  on  night  and  day, 
and,  in  covering  with  mats  at  night,  the  ends  of  the  mats  must  not 
hang  low  enough  down  the  sides  to  draw  the  steam  arising  from  the 
things  outside  into  the  frame.  Where  fermenting  materials  are 
scarce,  a  bed  of  faggots  or  brushwood,  three  feet  in  thickness,  and  a 
few  inches  larger  each  way  than  the  frame,  may  be  made,  and  the 
temperature  raised  to  the  necessary  degree  by  means  of  linings  of 
warm  fermenting  materials  put  round  the  outside.  In  either  case, 
the  surface  of  the  bed  inside  should  be  covered  with  a  thin  layer  of 
turf  and  a  few  inches  of  ashes,  in  which  to  partly  plunge  the  pots. 

"Wherever  there  is  a  pine  or  plant  stove  or  a  vinery  at  work, 
and  a  portion  of  the  pipes  situate  so  that  plants  placed  upon  them 
may  receive  a  moderate  amount  of  light,  the  whole  stock  of  bedding 
plants  may  be  struck  without  the  aid  of  an  ordinary  hotbed  at  all. 
Thousands  of  cuttings  are  struck  here  annually  in  the  following 
manner: — We  have  several  boxes  three  feet  in  length,  two  in  width, 
and  twelve  inches  in  depth ;  the  bottoms  are  constructed  of  stout 
perforated  zinc,  with  three  iron  bands,  an  inch  in  breadth  and  an 
eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  to  support  the  weight  of  the  pots. 
The  boxes  are  placed  upon  the  hot-water  pipes  of  one  of  the  houses 
at  work,  at  a  point  where  they  are  near  the  glass,  and  six  inches  of 
tan  placed  in  the  bottom  in  which  to  plunge  the  pots.  Cocoanut- 
fibre  refuse  or  sand  would  also  answer  very  well.  The  heat  com- 
municated by  the  pipes  is  ample,  and  the  bother,  dirt,  and  anxiety 
attendant  on  a  hotbed  is  entirely  dispensed  with. 

In  a  garden  where  the  whole  glass  it  contains  is  comprised  in  a 
greenhouse  or  conservatory,  the  plan  described  in  the  foregoing 
paragraph  cannot  be  carried  out,  because  the  heat  from  the  pipes 
will  not  be  constant.  There  are,  however,  several  contrivances  for 
propagating  purposes,  which  can  be  heated  with  lamps.  I  have  not 
had  much  experience  with  the  propagating  cases  heated  in  this 
manner,  but  during  last  spring  and  summer  I  saw  one  of  the  cases 
manufactured  by  Messrs.  Barr  and  Sugden,  12,  King  Street,  Covent 
Garden,  at  work  several  times,  and  it  appeared  to  answer  admirably, 
and  my  friend  states  that  he  is  thoroughly  satisfied.  They  are 
effectively  and  cheaply  heated,  and  so  cleanly,  that  for  lady  gardeners 
they  must  be  pronounced  a  great  boon.  Figures  and  descriptions 
of  two  of  the  cases  will  be  found  at  page  253  of  last  year's  volume, 
to  which  those  in  want  of  a  heated  case  can  refer. 

The  soil  used  for  filling  the  cutting  pots  should  be  light  and 
sandy.  We  generally  employ  the  old  soil  from  the  potting  bench 
for  this  purpose ;  we  first  sift  it,  and  then  mix  with  it  a  fourth  part 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  47 

of  silver  sand.  Fresh  loam  will  require  rather  more  sand.  Five- 
inch,  pots  are  the  most  convenient  size,  and  we  generally  employ 
them,  and  put  in  the  cuttings  at  the  rate  of  twenty  to  each.  In 
preparing  the  pots,  put  three  inches  of  crocks  in  the  bottom,  and 
then  fill  in  firmly  with  the  prepared  soil  to  within  half  an  inch  of 
the  rim.  Then  finish  off  by  putting  sufficient  sand  on  the  top  to 
bring  it  level  with  the  rim.  The  sand  should  be  moderately  moist 
when  used,  to  enable  the  operator  to  make  it  thoroughly  firm.  The 
sand  should  then  be  sprinkled,  and  everything  will  be  in  readiness 
for  the  cuttings. 

In  taking  off  the  cuttings,  select  the  points  of  the  healthiest 
shoots,  and  do  not  expose  them  to  the  atmosphere  any  longer  than 
possible.  Cuttings  of  two  joints  are  preferable,  although  the  shoots 
of  verbenas,  petunias,  and  several  other  subjects,  cut  up  into  single 
joints  only,  will  strike  freely  in  the  spring.  In  inserting  the 
cuttings,  make  a  hole  of  moderate  size,  then  drop  in  the  cutting,  and 
fix  it  firmly  by  thrusting  the  dibble  close  down  by  the  side  of  the 
stem,  but  without  touching  it.  The  cuttings  should  be  prepared, 
and  inserted  in  the  pots  in  which  the  propagating  frame  is  placed ; 
or  where  an  ordinary  hotbed  is  employed,  in  a  close  and  rather  warm 
house  or  room.  As  each  pot  is  filled,  place  it  in  the  frame,  water 
liberally,  and  shut  down  the  glass,  and  keep  it  quite  close  for  a  day 
or  so. 

The  after  management  comprises  air-giving  and  watering,  and 
upon  the  manner  in  which  the  air  is  regulated  and  the  water  applied 
depends  much  of  the  success.  It  is,  however,  impossible  to  lay  down 
any  definite  rules  upon  these  matters.  As  a  rule,  as  much  air  may 
be  admitted  into  the  frames  as  the  cuttings  can  bear  without  the 
leaves  flagging ;  for  if  the  atmosphere  is  too  much  confined,  a  con- 
siderable proportion  will  damp  off.  Again,  with  respect  to  watering, 
it  may  be  said  that  extremes  must  be  avoided,  because  too  much  or 
too  little  moisture  is  equally  injurious.  A  light  sprinkle  overhead 
will  be  required  once  a  day,  and  in  bright  weather  it  may  be 
repeated.  The  most  important  matter  in  watering  is  to  leave  off 
the  covers  until  the  leaves  have  become  rather  dry.  Shade  from  the 
sun  by  means  of  thin  canvas  or  tiffany,  as  a  few  hours'  sun  will  soon 
make  an  end  to  a  batch  of  cuttings.  Harden  off  as  soon  as  rooted, 
and  either  transfer  to  single  pots  or  a  bed  of  soil  made  up  in  a  frame 
without  delay.  It  ruins  bedding  plants  to  keep  them  for  any  length 
of  time  in  a  high  temperature. 

Bedding  geraniums  of  all  kinds  can  be  struck  without  the  aid  of 
bottom-heat ;  indeed,  they  do  much  better  when  the  cutting  pots 
are  placed  on  a  warm  sunny  shelf  in  a  warm  greenhouse. 

The  selections  of  the  most  suitable  kinds  must  be  deferred  until 
next  month. 


Large  Peaks  ix  Aistralia. — As  an  instance  of  the  enormous  size  to  which  fruit 
may  be  grown  in  the  vicinity  of  Melbourne,  may  be  mentioned  some  Brobdingnagian 
Pears,  which  were  on  view  the  other  day  at  a  seedsman's.  They  numbered  half-a- 
dozen,  the  total  weight  being  161b.  11  oz.  The  largest  weighed  31b.  3^  oz.,  and 
the  smallest  2  lb.  10a  oz. — Overland  Telegraph. 


48 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 


A  GAT  WINDOW  GAKDEN. 

|HE  cultivation  of  a  few  plants  on  the  -window-sill  is 
certainly  one  of  the  most  interesting  and  pleasurable 
occupations  in  which  those  having  no  conservatory  nor 
other  convenience  for  plant-growing  can  engage.  The 
embellishment  of  the  window-sill  is  not,  however,  a 
matter  of  interest  to  those  only  who  have  no  other  means  of  enjoy- 
ing a  few  flowers  of  their  own  growing,  because  few  adornments 
enhance  the  appearance  of  a  dwelling-house  more  than  flower  boxes 
at  the  principal  windows.  By  well-directed  efforts,  it  is  surprising 
what  a  large  number  of  flowering  plants  can  be  grown  in  that  way, 
and  how  easy,  comparatively  speaking,  the  floral  decoration  of  the 
windows  becomes. 

The  most  important  step  to  take  in  connection  with  plant- 
growing  outside  the  window  is  to  eschew  pots  altogether,  and  to 
employ  well-made  boxes  instead.  It  is  a  matter  of  extreme  diffi- 
culty, after  the  beginning  of  June,  to  keep  pot-plants  in  health. 
The  fierce  heat  of  the  sun,  playing  upon  the  sides  of  the  pots,  scorches 
the  roots  of  the  plants,  consequently  all  healthy  growth  is  checked, 
and  they  soon  present  a  languishing  appearance.     Even  if  the  roots 


Fig.  1. — Rustic  Wood  Box. 

were  not  injured  by  heat,  they  would  be  by  drought,  because  it 
would  be  practically  impossible  to  keep  the  soil  moist  enough  to 
maintain  a  healthy  growth.  These  remarks  respecting  plants  in 
pots  refer,  of  course,  to  those  only  which  are  placed  upon  the  sill, 
without  the  sides  of  the  pots  being  protected ;  because,  when  the 
windows  are  furnished  with  boxes,  plants  in  pots  can  be  employed 
according  to  the  means  and  wishes  of  each  cultivator,  as  the  boxes 
can  be  loosely  filled  with  cocoanut-fibre  refuse,  'and  the  pots  plunged 


Fig.  2.— Rustic  Zinc  Box. 


to  their  full  depth.  The  roots  and  soil  will  then,  of  course,  be 
beyond  the  injurious  influences  of  the  heat  from  the  sun.  Indeed, 
to  carry  out  window-gardening  in  the  most  perfect  manner  possible, 
the  whole  of  the  plants  should  be  grown  in  pots,  to  admit  of  frequent 
change;  but,  as  that  system  would  require  more  skill  and  time  than 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 


49 


the  majority  of  my  readers  would  be  able  to  devote  to  it,  my  remarks 
will  be  confined  almost  exclusively  to  the  cultivation  of  the  plants 
from  first  to  last  in  the  boxes. 

The  form  and  pattern  of  the  boxes  must  in  a  great  measure  be 
decided  by  the  style  of  architecture  of  the  house  for  which  they  are 
intended,  and  the  taste  and  means  of  the  occupier.  The  accom- 
panying designs,  which  are  from  the  stock  of  Messrs.  Dick  Ead- 
clyffe,  and  Co.,  129,  High  Holborn,W.C,  who  devote  much  attention 
to  window-boxes  and  other  horticultural  elegancies,  illustrate  some 
of  the  very  best  forms  that  could  be  devised.     Figs.  1,  2,  and  3  are 


Fig.  3.— Rustic  Wood  Box. 

eminently  adapted  for  cottage  and  small  villa  residences,  whilst  for 
the  more  aristocratic  villa  and  the  mansion,  Figs.  4  and  5  will  be 
more  acceptable.  Fig.  3  is,  perhaps,  the  prettiest  of  the  rustic 
designs ;  and  of  the  other  two,  Fig.  4  is  the  most  useful,  and  the 
pattern  of  the  tiles  with  which  this  kind  of  box  is  faced  is  almost 
illimitable.  Fig.  5  is  remarkably  beautiful,  but,  of  necessity,  is  too 
expensive  to  admit  of  its  employment  elsewhere  than  at  the  dining 
and  drawing-room  windows,  excepting  in  the  houses  of  the  most 
wealthy.  As  an  act  of  justice  to  the  firm  referred  to,  it  is  necessary 
to  say  that  the  designs  here  figured  comprise  only  a  portion  of  the 
stock,  and  that  in  selecting  boxes  of  No.  4  pattern,  a  personal  inspec- 
tion will  be  most  satisfactory,  as  tastes  differ  so  much.    They  should 


Fig.  4.— Tile  Box. 

fit  the  window  nicely,  but  they  must  be  deep  and  broad  enough  to 
hold  a  considerable  quantity  of  soil,  or  the  plants  in  them  will  be 
no  better  off  than  if  they  were  grown  in  pots.  Each  box  should  be 
wide  enough  to  comfortably  hold  a  double  row  of  plants,  and  if  the 
sill  is  narrow,  it  may  be  allowed  to  project  two  or  three  inches,  as  a 
neat  bracket  on  each  side,  will  hold  it  firm.  Means  must  be  pro- 
vided for  the  ready  escape  of  all  superfluous  water,  by  placing  in  the 
bottom  a  layer  of  rather  small  crocks,  and  then  covering  them  with 
a  layer  of  rough  material,  to  prevent  the  fine  soil  choking  them  up. 
A  compost  consisting  of  two  parts  turfy  loam  and  one  part  decayed 
manure  or  leaf-mould,  will  suit  all  the  plants — with  which  they 
should  be  filled  throughout  the  year. 

VOL.  VI. — NO.  II.  4 


50 


THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 


Having  thus  far  disposed  of  the  preparation  of  the  boxes,  we 
will  turn  our  attention  to  the  most  useful  plants  for  rendering  them 
bright  and  cheerful  all  the  year  round.  There  is  no  lack  of  good 
things  suitable  for  the  purpose,  but  I  shall  name  a  few  only  of  the 
most  useful,  and  such  as  are  within  the  reach  of  all  classes.  For 
spring  decoration  a  mixture  of  Arabis  alpina,  Alyssum  saxatile, 
Aubrieiia  Campbelll,  A.  deltoidea grandijlora,  Lberis  sempervivens,  Phloz 
Nelsoni,  Saponaria  calabrica,  and  Wallflowers,  of  sorts,  comprising 
both  double  and  single  varieties ;  but  the  latter  are  the  most  useful, 
as  they  can  be  most  readily  raised  from  seed.  The  above-mentioned 
subjects  should  be  regularly  intermixed,  and  a  row  of  Alyssum  saxa- 
tile variegatum,  Arabis  lucida  variegata,  and  the  variegated  Daisy, 
Bellis  perennis  aucuboejolia,  planted  in  front,  separately  or  mixed.  A 
row  of  yellow  Narcissus  should  then  be  planted  at  the  back  next  a 
row  of  red  Hyacinths ;  and  in  front,  alternately  with  the  variegated 
plants,  a  row  of  Squills.  The  best  of  the  sorts  are,  considering 
their  cheapness  and  effectiveness,  Narcissus  Lord  Canning,  Hyacinth 
Amy,  and  Scilla  prcecox.  The  pretty  little  Narcissus  bulbocodium  is 
also  line  for  front  rows.     The  furniture  of  the  boxes  may  consist 


Fie.  5. — The  Deawing-eoom  Box. 

entirely  of  bulbous  plants,  but  it  is  much  better  to  fill  them  with 
other  things,  and  then  plant  the  bulbs  amongst  them. 

For  summer  decoration,  boxes  in  shady  positions  should  be  filled 
with  hardy  Ferns,  and  a  few  Fuchsias  and  Blue  Lobelias  intermixed. 
Those  occupying  sunny  aspects  should  be  chiefly  filled  with  varie- 
gated and  zonal  Pelargoniums,  and  a  few  Lobelias,  Fuchsias,  Mig- 
nonette, Candytufts,  Gallardias,  Centaureas,  and  Heliotropes.  The 
Pelargoniums,  must,  however,  be  planted  the  most  extensively,  as 
they  grow  freely  and  flower  very  profusely  under  the  most  adverse 
conditions,  provided  they  have  the  advantage  of  an  abundance  of 
sunshine.  The  other  subjects  must  be  introduced  sparingly,  because 
many  of  them  will  present  a  shabby  appearance  by  the  middle  of 
the  summer,  if  they  suffer  much  from  drought. 

All  the  variegated  and  zonal  Pelargoniums  are  more  or  less  valua- 
ble for  filling  window- boxes  ;  but  in  selecting  twenty  of  the  older 
sorts  that  can  be  purchased  cheap,  I  should  prefer,  of  the  double- 
flowering  varieties,  Charles  Olym,  Madame  Michel  Buckner,  Marie  Le- 
moine,  and  Wilhelm  Pjitzer.     Single-flowering :  Blue  Bell,  Gloire  de 


THE   FLORAL    WOULD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  51 

Corbeny,  Louis  VeuiUot,  Lucius,  Madlle.  Nillson,  Rose  Bendatler, 
Richard  Headly,  Thomas  Moore,  The  Bride,  White  Wonder.  Bronze 
zonals :  JE.  G.  Henderson,  Beauty  of  Biverdale.  Gold  zonal:  Louisa 
Smith.  Silver  zonal :  Italia  Unita.  White  variegated  :  Princess 
Alexandra.  Golden-leaved :  Crimson  Banner.  For  drooping  over 
the  front  of  the  box,  variegated  and  other  ivy-leaved  Pelargoniums  : 
Maurandya  Barclay  ana,  Lophospermum  Hendersoni,  and  Thunbergia 
aurantiaca — all  of  which,  excepting  the  Pelargoniums,  can  be  raised 
from  seed. 

By  a  judicious  selection  of  hardy  evergreens,  the  boxes  may  be 
rendered  bright  and  cheerful  throughout  the  winter.  The  most 
suitable  for  general  purposes  are  green  and  variegated  Aucubas,  Box, 
Buonymus,  Golden  Arbor-vitce,  Laurestinus,  Cupressus  Lawsoni,  with 
variegated  and  green-leaved  small-growing  Ivies  for  trailing  over  the 
sides,  and  a  carpet  of  the  beautiful  Golden-tipped  Stonecrop.  Boxes 
filled  with  hardy  evergreens,  as  here  advised,  need  not  be  disturbed 
until  they  are  filled  with  the  summer  occupants,  for,  by  the  intro- 
duction of  a  few  Crocuses,  Snoivdrops,  Scillas,  Hyacinths,  Narcissus, 
and  Tulips  there  will  be  no  lack  of  colour  throughout  the  spring. 

It  only  now  remains  to  be  said,  that  the  plants,  especially  during 
the  summer,  must  not  be  allowed  to  suffer  from  the  want  of  water, 
and  that  the  foliage  must  be  kept  perfectly  free  from  dust.  The 
evening  is  the  best  time  for  watering  and  cleansing  the  foliage. 


THE  BEGINNER  IN  GRAPE-  GEO  WING.— No.  II. 

BY   WILLIAM    COLE, 

Head  Gardener,  Ealing  Park,  Middlesex. 

MANAGEMENT    OE    YOUNG   YINES    IN    POTS. 


HIS  will  be  a  short  chapter,  because  all  that  we  have  to 
do  under  this  heading  is  to  consider  the  few  details  con- 
nected with  the  management  of  the  young  vines  during 
the  first  season.  We  concluded  last  month  with  a  note 
urging  the  importance  of  not  allowing  them  to  become 
pot-bound ;  but,  on  the  other  hand,  a  caution  against  over-potting 
appears  necessary.  Of  the  two  evils,  shifting  them  before  they  are 
well  rooted  is  certainly  the  worst.  Whether  the  stock  requires  shift- 
ing can  soon  be  determined  by  turning  one  of  the  vines  out  of  the 
pot.  If  the  roots  exist  in  sufficient  numbers  round  the  outside  of 
the  ball  of  soil  to  hold  it  together,  shift  without  delay  ;  otherwise 
allow  them  to  remain  in  the  pots  until  they  are  sufficiently  rooted. 
Erequent  repottings  are  undesirable,  and  as  a  rule  those  intended  for 
fruiting  in  pots  the  following  season  will  require  three  shifts,  but  for 
those  required  for  planting  out  in  the  vinery  border,  either  in  the 
autumn  or  following  spring,  or  for  cutting  down  with  the  intention 
of  their  being  fruited  in  pots  the  second  year  after  the  eyes  are 
struck,  two  shifts  will  be  ample.     In  any  case  put  them  first  into 


52  THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

six-inch  pots,  and  from  that  size  into  the  nine-inch  size.  At  the 
third  shift,  when  required,  put  them  into  pots  two  or  three  sizes 
larger. 

Inside  borders  may  be  planted  in  June  with  vines  obtained  from 
eyes  struck  the  previous  March,  and  the  stock  set  apart  for  that  pur- 
pose should,  if  convenient,  be  put  from  the  small  pots  into  shallow 
boxes,  and  then  at  planting  time  the  sides  can  be  knocked  away, 
and  the  bottom  removed  without  disturbing  the  roots.  It  is  better 
to  plant  vineries  in  June  with  vines  struck  the  previous  spring  than 
to  wait  until  the  following  March,  to  admit  of  its  being  planted  with 
canes  twelve  months  older.  But  where  the  vines  are  too  hard,  and 
the  house  and  border  in  readiness  for  their  reception,  I  should 
strongly  recommend  its  being  planted  some  time  during  March  or 
April  with  one-year-old  vines  that  were  cut  close  down  to  the  ground, 
and  have  when  planted  about  twelve  or  eighteen  inches  of  new 
growth.  These  will  start  away  stronger,  and  also  have  two  months 
more  of  the  best  part  of  the  growing  season  in  which  to  make  their 
growth  than  younger  ones  planted  in  June.  Therefore,  the  rods  will 
be  much  stronger  and  better  matured  at  the  end  of  the  season. 

In  preparing  a  compost  for  vines  when  in  pots,  whether  they  are 
to  be  fruited  in  them  or  not,  the  cultivator  should  encourage  as  much 
as  possible  the  production  of  short  fibrous  roots.  Hence  hot-bed  or 
other  manure  of  a  similar  character  must  be  used  in  a  sparing  man- 
ner, and  where  available  bone-dust  or  crushed  bones  employed 
instead.  Partly  decomposed  horse-droppings  are  valuable  for  ^this 
purpose,  when  bones  cannot  be  afforded,  as  they  assist  in  keeping  the 
compost  light  and  open,  whilst  at  the  same  time  they  furnish  food 
for  the  vines.  To  render  everything  as  clear  as  possible,  it  is  neces- 
sary to  say  that  the  most  suitable  compost  is  prepared  by  well  incor- 
porating together  four  parts  turfy  loam,  one  part  manure,  one  part 
brick-rubbish,  and  about  a  third  of  a  part  of  bone-dust.  The  pots 
will  require  draining  effectually,  but  no  more  crocks  than  are  abso- 
lutely necessary  must  be  employed.  At  the  last  shifting  I  should 
recommend  the  use  of  inch  bones  instead  of  crocks,  especially  if  the 
vines  are  to  be  fruited  in  the  pots. 

Plunging  the  pots  in  a  brisk  hot-bed  after  the  eyes  are  struck  is 
not  only  unnecessary,  but  positively  injurious,  and  after  the  first 
shift  the  pots  should  be  stood  upon  a  hard  surface.  "When  the  vines 
are  grown  with  the  assistance  of  bottom-heat,  the  wood  is  generally 
soft  and  pithy,  'and  they  are  usually  furnished  with  thick  fleshy 
"  goose-quill  "  roots,  which,  if  subjected  to  bad  treatment  during  the 
winter,  will  perish.  Consequently  if  they  are  fruited  the  following 
season  a  large  portion  of  many  of  the  branches  will  be  ruined 
through  the  berries  shanking.  This  so-called  disease  is  usually  attri- 
buted to  too  much  atmospheric  humidity  ;  rightly  in  some  instances, 
but  generally  it  may  be  ascribed  to  defective  root-action. 

Vines  in  their  first,  as  in  all  subsequent  stages  of  growth,  should 
not  be  crowded  closely  together,  but  be  placed  far  enough  apart  to 
admit  of  the  stems  being  fully  exposed  to  the  light.  By  closely 
following  the  instructions  here  given,  and  during  the  summer  main- 
taining a  free  current  of  air  through  the  house  in  which  they  are 


THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  53 

grown,  there  will  be  no  difficulty  whatever  in  producing  well-ripened 
and  short-jointed  canes.  By  the  end  of  August  or  early  in  Septem- 
ber the  canes  will,  if  they  have  been  properly  managed,  be  full 
grown,  and  should  be  taken  to  the  open  air  for  a  month  or  sis  weeks 
to  insure  their  being  properly  ripened.  The  canes  should  be  securely 
fastened  to  a  wall  or  fence  having  a  south  aspect,  and  during  heavy 
rains  some  means  must  be  adopted  to  prevent  the  soil  becoming 
saturated.  The  soil,  however,  must  not  be  kept  dust  dry  duriug  the 
season  of  rest,  or  many  of  the  roots  will  perisb,  and  the  vines  suffer 
immensely.  The  very  excellent  remarks  made  by  "  A  Kentish 
Gardener  "  upon  this  subject  in  last  month's  number,  renders  it  un- 
necessary for  me  to  say  another  word  in  reference  to  the  danger  of 
drying^the  roots  in  winter. 

Next  month  vineries,  vine-borders,  and  planting  must  engage  our 
attention,  but  before  quitting  the  subject,  for  the  present,  it  will  be 
worth  while  to  add  that  although  the  vines  should  be  kept  cool  when 
at  rest,  they  must  not  be  exposed  to  severe  frost. 


THE  NIGHT-SCENTED  STOCK. 

EXCEPTING-  by  reputation,  the  Night-scented  Stocks, 
Mathiolct  bicornis  and  M.  tricuspidata,  are  only  known 
to  a  few,  whereas  they  should  have  a  place  assigned 
them  in  every  garden  where  sweet-scented  flowers  are 
appreciated.  No  piant  in  cultivation,  much  less  hardy 
annuals,  can  surpass,  and  few  equal,  the  delicacy  and  richness  of  the 
perfume  emitted  from  their  flowers.  The  entire  plant,  of  both 
varieties,  with  us,  usually  attains  a  height  of  about  twelve  inches  ; 
the  upper  half  consisting  of  a  branchiug  spike  of  pale  lilac,  and  in  the 
case  of  M.  bicornis,  it  must  be  confessed,  rather  insignificant  flowers. 
The  latter  are  closed  during  the  day,  and  are  then  nearly  scentless, 
but  from  early  in  the  evening  to  the  following  morning  the  odour 
exhaled  from  them  is  so  powerful,  that  the  presence  of  the  plants 
can  be  detected  when  many  yards  from  them.  M.  tricuspidata  is  an 
old  variety  of  much  value,  and  has  been  recently  re-introduced.  In 
some  respects  it  is  superior  to  M.  bicornis  ;  the  flowers  are  larger, 
rather  deeper  in  colour,  and  remain  expanded  during  the  day  as  well 
as  the  night.  The  perfume  of  the  flowers  of  this  variety  during  the 
day  was  said  to  be  equal  to  that  exhaled  from  them  in  the  evening, 
but  that  is  an  exaggeration,  as  it  is  far  inferior,  although  very 
delightful. 

We  sow  a  pinch  of  seed  in  March,  here  and  there,  in  the  shrub- 
bery borders,  where  the  plants  will  be  partially  screened  from 
observation  by  those  of  greater  stature.  Ttiey  are  thinned  out  in 
the  same  way  as  other  annuals,  and  then  left  to  take  care  of  them- 
selves. The  fragrance  which  arises  in  the  evening  from  the  plants 
on  all  sides  is  most  lovely,  and  produces  an  indescribable  effect  upon 
those  of  our  friends,  when  seated  at  the  open  window  of  the  drawing- 
room,  who  have  not  hitherto  been  personally  acquainted  with  either 


54  THE    FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

of  these  plants.  They  fancy  we  have  a  bank  of  mignonette,  violets, 
and  roses  hidden  away  somewhere  behind  the  shrubs,  and  will  hardly 
believe,  the  next  morning,  when  we  show  them  the  plants,  that  such 
overpowering  fragrance  can  be  exhaled  by  such  insignificant  objects. 
We  save  our  own  seed,  but  I  see,  by  the  trade-lists,  that  a  sufficient 
supply  of  each  of  the  varieties  can  now  be  obtained  for  sixpence. 

Hakmet  Tettekell. 


CENTATJREAS  AND  HOW  TO  PROPAGATE  THEM. 

BY    JOHN   WALSH. 

1REAT  popularity  has  been   obtained  by  the    Centurea, 
since  plants  remarkable  for  their  rich  colours  and  the 


ornamental  character  of  their  leaves,  have  been  gene- 
rally employed  in  the  embellishment  of  the  flower 
garden.  It  well  deserves  the  high  esteem  in  which  it 
is  held,  for  without  doubt  it  is  the  most  valuable  of  all  plants,  with 
silvery  or  grey  foliage.  These  remarks  are  not  penned  with  the 
intention  of  passing  an  eulogy  on  its  merits,  because  that  is  not 
required,  but  my  object  is  to  assist  amateurs  in  raising  a  stock  with 
the  least  possible  amount  of  trouble.  Most  professional  gardeners 
are  now  well  acquainted  with  the  best  steps  to  take  in  their  propa- 
gation, but  I  now  and  then  meet  with  some  who  are  as  yet  firm 
believers  that  they  are  most  difficult  to  increase,  whereas  in  reality 
they  can  be  propagated  with  the  greatest  ease.  I  shall  not  therefore 
apologize  for  communicating  these  notes  to  a  work  which  is  so 
extensively  read  by  all  classes  of  horticulturists. 

Centaureas  can  be  propagated  by  means  of  cuttings  struck  in 
the  spring  or  autumn,  and  from  seed.  Each  mode  has  its  advantages 
and  disadvantages ;  but  for  these  not  well  up  in  the  mysteries  of 
striking  cuttings,  seed  affords  the  readiest  means  of  raising  a  stock. 
It  must  also  be  resorted  to  where  there  are  no  old  plants  to  supply 
cuttings.  Seed  of  all  the  varieties  is  plentiful  in  the  trade,  and 
may  be  obtained  from  any  respectable  house.  Sown  at  once  in  heat, 
and  the  seedlings  pushed  on  in  a  brisk  temperature  until  the  middle 
of  April,  plants  suitable  for  edging  purposes  may  be  secured  by  the 
time  they  are  required  for  putting  out  in  the  flower-garden.  Sow- 
ing in  autumn  is  the  best  period  for  people  who  have  not  the  com- 
mand thus  early,  as  the  plants  can  be  raised  in  the  open,  or  in  a 
cold  frame  or  greenhouse,  and  wintered  in  either  of  these  structures. 
They  will  also  be  considerably  larger  by  planting  time.  All  the 
sorts  will  bear  a  considerable  amount  of  frost  without  injury,  when 
raised  in  the  autumn,  and  they  can  be  wintered  in  a  cold  frame  with 
a  mat  thrown  over  the  glass  to  break  the  frost.  Nothing  special  is 
required  in  sowing  the  seed,  and  in  the  management  of  the  seedlings, 
therefore  it  would  be  a  waste  of  space  to  allude  to  it  further. 

Plenty  of  home-grown  seed  for  autumn  growing  may  be  obtained 
by  allowing  the  plants  taken  up  from  the  beds  last  autumn  to  bloom, 


THE    FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  55 

which  they  will  do  if  not  stopped,  and  as  soon  as  the  flowers  begin 
to  expand,  placing  them  in  an  airy  and  dry  position. 

It  is  rather  more  difficult  to  strike  cuttings  than  to  raise  seed- 
lings, but  it  is  easier  than  many  people  imagine,  especially  if  they 
are  struck  in  the  spring.  Supposing  the  spring  is  taken  advantage 
of  for  the  work,  it  will  be  necessary,  first  of  all,  to  place  the  stock 
plants  in  a  temperature  of  653  or  70°  to  start  them  into  growth. 
If  flower-buds  make  their  appearance,  let  them  rise  above  the 
foliage,  and  then  nip  them  off.  Some  writers  recommend  nipping 
out  the  growing  point  before  starting  the  plants,  but  the  advice  is 
as  bad  as  bad  can  be,  because  in  the  majority  of  cases  the  act  will 
be  followed  by  the  decay  of  the  main  stem.  The  advice  is  given 
under  the  supposition  that  by  stopping  the  main  shoots,  the  produc- 
tion of  side-shoots  will  be  encouraged,  whereas  it  does  nothing  of 
the  kind.  Here  the  ignorance  of  the  writers  is  made  manifest,  for 
nothing  short  of  a  waut  of  knowledge  of  the  habit  of  the  centaureas 
would  induce  any  one  to  advise  their  being  treated  in  the  same  way 
as  verbenas  and  other  plants  of  a  similar  character.  If  the  stock 
plants  are  not  over- watered,  they  will  produce  a  plentiful  supply  of 
cuttings  without  stopping.  Take  off  the  cuttings  with  a  very  small 
heel,  and  insert  them  thickly  in  pans,  or  pots,  filled  with  sandy  soil 
and  surfaced  with  sand.  Place  the  cuttings  in  a  temperature  of  70°, 
and  where  they  will  not  be  exposed  to  draughts  or  subject  to  much 
atmospheric  humidity.  Here  they  can  be  left,  so  far  as  my  remarks 
are  concerned,  for  they  will  soon  strike,  and  it  would  be  absurd  for 
me  to  say  that  they  should  be  potted  off,  or  to  describe  details  that 
must  be  well  known  to  those  who  have  had  the  slightest  experience 
in  plant-growing. 

Striking  cuttings  in  the  autumn  is  not  attended  with  such  a 
degree  of  certainty  as  the  same  work  performed  at  the  period 
advised  in  the  preceding  paragraph,  but  it  can  be  done  with  a  little 
skill.  In  taking  the  cuttings  select  those  with  about  half  an 
inch  of  firm  wood  at  the  base,  and  slip  them  off  without  injuring 
the  main  stem.  Then  remove  a  few  of  the  lower  leaves,  prepare  the 
base  smooth,  and  put  them  round  the  sides  of  five-inch  pots,  at  the 
rate  of  four  to  each  pot.  Also  put  three  small  pieces  of  stick  round 
the  outside  and  connect  them  together  with  a  piece  of  matting,  to 
hold  the  leaves  up  and  keep  them  in  their  place.  A  cold  frame,  and 
a  moderate  amount  of  water  and  air  will  accomplish  the  rest. 

For  centres  of  beds  Centaurea  gymnocarpa  is  most  suitable,  as 
it  naturally  grows  taller  than  the  others  ;  for  second  rows  C.  ragusina 
should  be  selected;  and  for  edging  purposes  preference  must  be 
given  to  C.  arc/entea  plumosa,  and  C.  rar/usina  comjyacta. 

C.  Glementei,  a  new  variety  raised  in  the  south  of  France,  and 
now  in  course  of  distribution  in  this  country,  in  said  to  be  a  most 
desirable  acquisition.  It  resembles  in  general  character  C.  ragusina, 
but  is  much  finer  in  all  its  proportions,  the  leaves  are  deeply  cut  and 
in  lobes,  and  these  again  elegantly  fringed.  The  leaves  are  also 
densely  white  when  young,  and  maintain  their  silvery  appearance 
when  fully  developed.  As  seed  can  be  obtained  at  a  shilling  per 
packet,  it  is  within  the  reach  of  all  classes. 


56 


THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND   GARDEN   GUIDE. 


LOOKER'S  GARDEN  FRAME  AND  GROUND  VINERY. 

Y  the  introduction  of  the  "  Acme  Garden  Frame  and 
Ground  Vinery,''  Mr.  Looker,  of  Kingston,  has  conferred 
a  great  boon  upon  all  amateur  horticulturalists,  for  of 
all  the  many  forms  of  portable  plant  protectors  it 
must  be  pronounced  one  of  the  very  best.  They  are 
light   in  appearance,  very  roomy,  and,  with  a  slight  exception,  con- 


LOOEEE 8  GAKDEN  FBAME. 

structed  of  imperishable  materials.  The  uses  to  which  these  frames 
may  be  put  must  be  so  apparent  that  it  is  almost  needless  to  refer 
to  them.  Suffice  to  say  that  they  may  be  employed  in  the  kitchen 
garden  for  the  protection  of  lettuce  and  cauliflower  plants  for  plant- 
ing in  spring ;  lettuce,  endive,  and  other  salading  plants,  that  are 
full-grown  during  the  winter  ;  raising  seeds  ;  accelerating  the  ripen- 
ing of  strawberries  ;  and  for  many  other  purposes  of  equal  import- 
ance. In  the  flower-garden,  they  will  be  especially  valuable  for 
protecting  violets,  pansies,  pentstemons,  and  many  Alpine  plants 
that  require  protection  from  very  severe  weather,  and  from  too  much 
moisture.  They  may  also  be  profitably  employed  for  propagating 
and  raising  seeds  of  hardy  and  other  flowering  plants  during  the 
summer  months,  and  in  hardening  off*  bedding  plants  in  the  spring. 
Grapes  and  summer  cucumbers  can  also  be   grown  most   success- 


THE   FLORAL   WORLD    AND   GARDEN   GUIDE.  57 

fully  in  them.  As  will  be  seen  by  our  illustration,  the  lower  edge 
of  the  glass  rests  upon  earthenware  chairs,  or  tiles,  and  at  the  top, 
upon  a  light,  open  wooden  ridge.  The  ridge  is  supported  by  angle 
pieces  securely  fixed  on  the  inside  of  the  tiles,  at  intervals  of  about 
every  four  feet.  The  opening  along  the  ridge  is  closed  with  earthenware 
caps,  which  cap  over  the  glass  and  prevent  drip.  These,  when  re- 
quired for  ventilation,  can  be  taken  off,  as  shown  in  the  illustration. 
The  glass  can  be  taken  off  when  required  to  admit  of  the  plants 
being  attended  to  with  the  utmost  facility.  For  prices,  which  are 
very  low,  and  other  particulars,  application  must  be  made  to  Mr.  B. 
Looker,  Norbiton  Potteries,  Kingston-on-Thames. 


HORTICULTURAL  NOTES. 


|  HE  Garden  Oracle,  which  has  now  reached  its  thir- 
teenth year,  has  again  made  its  appearance ;  and,  as 
usual,  every  phase  of  horticultural  and  floricultural 
progress  is  duly  recorded.  The  list  of  New  Plants  is  as 
complete  as  possible,  but  the  descriptions  are  shorter 
than  usual — a  change  which  will,  no  doubt,  be  much  appreciated, 
because  it  occupies  less  space,  and,  therefore,  room  for  more  useful 
matters  is  afforded.  The  descriptions  are  ample  for  all  practical 
purposes  ;  and,  as  references  are  given  to  the  works  in  which  they 
are  figured  and  fully  described,  nothing  further  is  required.  The 
list  of  New  Flowers,  in  which  about  five  hundred  varieties  are 
described,  which  will  chiefly  be  sent  out  during  the  current  year,  is 
sufficient  evidence  that  there  is  no  lack  of  enterprise  amongst  florists 
in  this  country,  and  that  floriculture  is  not  in  the  languishing  con- 
dition many  would  fain  have  us  believe.  The  new  flowers,  such  as 
Roses,  Grladioli,  Phloxes,  etc.,  that  we  were  wont  to  receive  from 
Erance,  are,  of  course,  absent ;  for  our  brethren  on  the  other  side  of 
the  Channel  have  had  duties  too  stern  and  sacred  to  perform  to 
admit  of  their  devoting  much  time  and  attention  to  the  peaceful 
arts.  The  list  of  New  Eruits  comprises  all  the  best  and  most  dis- 
tinct novelties  of  the  past  year,  and  possesses  much  to  interest 
pomologists  and  others  anxious  to  furnish  their  gardens  with  the 
best  of  everything ;  especially  as  most  of  the  descriptions  are  ac- 
companied with  characteristic  illustrations.  All  the  IN  ew  Vegetables 
and  Inventions  are,  as  a  matter  of  course,  described,  and  the  most 
important  figured.  The  new  inventions  form  a  very  important 
feature  of  this  year's  issue,  occupying  no  lesa  than  ten  pages.  The 
monthly  lists  are  this  year  devoted  to  pictorial  and  hardy-flowering 
trees  and  shrubs.  The  lists  comprise  selections  of  trees  remark- 
able for  beautiful  foliage  in  summer ;  beautiful  foliage  in  autumn  ; 
the  embellishment  of  lawns,  promenades,  water-scenes,  and  boun- 
dary-belts ;  coniferous  trees  for  collections ;  evergreens  for  town- 
gardens  ;  flowering  shrubs  ;  shrubs  for  growing  under  trees  ;  in 
fact,  all  the  most  valuable  shrubs  and  trees  for  planting  pleasure- 
grounds  and  parks  are  enumerated,  and  their  proper  use  indicated. 


58  THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

Another  new  feature  consists  of  an  essay  "  On  the  Ordering  and 
Management  of  Small  Gardens,"  which,  there  can  be  no  doubt, 
will  be  of  immense  service  to  amateurs  and  others.  The  selections 
of  fruits,  flowers,  and  vegetables  are  as  full  and  accurate  as  hereto- 
fore ;  and  upwards  of  twenty  of  the  most  useful  and  distinct  of  the 
latter  are  illustrated. 

Tbe  weather,  since  my  last  notes  were  written,  has  occupied 
much  of  our  attention,  although,  up  to  the  present  time,  the  winter 
has  not  been  characterized  by  any  unusual  phenomena.  In  the 
neighbourhood  of  London,  thirty  degrees  of  frost  were  several  times 
registered,  whilst  twenty  degrees  of  frost  was  quite  common  in  all 
parts  of  the  country.  In  Yorkshire  and  Norfolk,  and  many  other 
counties,  correspondents  state  that  upon  one  or  two  occasions  the 
temperature  fell  several  degrees  below  the  zero  of  Fahrenheit.  In 
low-lying  and  damp  situations,  the  kitchen  garden  crops  have 
suffered  severely  ;  but  so  far  as  I  have  been  able  to  ascertain  by 
observation,  and  from  the  reports  of  correspondents,  trees  and  shrubs 
do  not  appear  to  have  received  much,  if  any  damage.  This  is,  no 
doubt,  owing  to  the  well  ripened  condition  of  the  wood  when  the 
frost  caught  it.  The  exact  amount  of  injury  which  trees  and  shrubs 
have  received,  cannot  as  yet  be  correctly  ascertained,  but  there  is  no 
cause  to  fear  that  much  harm  has  been  done. 

The  Persian  Cyclamen  is  now  justly  appreciated  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  the  metropolis,  but  few  provincial  horticulturists  who 
have  not  been  fortunate  enough  to  see  the  magnificent  collections 
exhibited  at  the  spring  exhibitions  of  the  two  Royal  Societies  in 
London,  by  Mr.  James  and  Mr.  Wiggins,  of  Isleworth,  Mr.  Edmonds, 
of  Hayes  Common,  and  Mr.  Stevens,  of  Ealing,  have  an  adequate 
idea  of  the  perfection  to  which  they  can  be  grown.  The  other  day, 
I  had  the  good  fortune  to  see  the  collection  under  the  charge  of  Mr. 
James,  in  tbe  gardens  of  W.  E.  Watson,  Esq.,  Redlees,  Isleworth. 
The  bulk  of  the  plants  were  not  fully  out,  but  they  were  in  the 
most  luxuriant  health,  and  bristling  with  flower-buds.  I  have  had 
the  opportunity  of  seeing  the  collection  every  season  for  several 
years  past,  and  I  feel  bound  to  say  that  no  word  painting  will  con- 
vey anything  like  an  adequate  idea  of  the  appearance  of  the  house 
when  the  plants  are  at  their  best.  Many  of  them  have  from  two  to 
three  hundred  flowers  expanded  at  one  time.  The  flowers  are  also 
of  the  most  perfect  form,  and  the  colours  range  from  the  purest 
white  to  the  deepest  rose  and  carmine.  Tbe  flowers  are  so  vastly 
superior  to  the  narrow  petalled  flowers  of  the  varieties  usually  grown, 
that  one  can  hardly  believe  them  to  be  the  same.  The  system  of 
culture,  adopted  by  Mr.  James,  is  exceedingly  simple.  The  seed  is 
sown  directly  it  is  gathered,  the  young  plants  grown  on  briskly  the 
first  year  without  being  dried  off,  and  the  old  plants  only  allowed  to 
rest  for  about  a  month  in  the  summer.  The  compost  used  is  mode- 
rately rich  and  open,  and  a  liberal  quantity  of  sand  is  added,  to 
admit  of  the  free  development  of  the  roots.  We  frequently  hear  of 
"spotted"  Cyclamens  so  called,  as  if  the  character  was  fixed; 
whereas  the  spots  on  the  light  flowers  is  always  caused  by  an  excess 
of  atmospheric  humidity,  and  is  evidence  of  improper  management. 


HIE    FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  59 

The  first  meeting  of  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society,  at  South 
Kensington,  for  the  present  year,  was  held  on  the  18th  of  last 
month,  and  was  one  of  the  best  winter  meetings  ever  held  by  the 
society.  The  principal  features  were  the  grand  banks  of  winter- 
flowering  Orchids,  staged  by  Lord  Londesborough,  Tadcaster,  York- 
shire, and  Messrs.  Veitch  and  Sons,  of  Chelsea;  Ivies,  by  Mr. 
Turner,  of  Slough,  and  Messrs.  Lane  and  Sons,  of  Great  Berkhamp- 
stead ;  and  Cyclamens,";  by  H.  Little,  Esq.,  of  Cambridge  Park, 
Twickenham,  and  Mr.  Wiggins,  of  Isleworth.  Novelties  were,  of 
course,  scarce,  but  a  few  good  things  were  shown.  The  most  im- 
portant were  : — Cypripedium  vexillarmm,  a  pretty  hybrid,  between 
C.  JPairreanum,  and  C.  barbatum,  with  pale  rose-purple,  shading  to 
white,  sepals  and  petals,  and  a  brownish  lip,  from  Messrs.  Veitch 
and  Sons  ;  Ficus  lanceolata,  a  most  beautiful  erect-growing  species, 
with  lance-shaped,  leathery  leaves,  averaging  fifteen  inches  in  length 
and  two  in  width  ;  and  Pteris  serrulata  gleicJienifolia,  a  most  elegant 
variety  of  this  fern,  which  has  already  been  described  in  these  pages, 
from  Messrs.  A.  Henderson  and  Co.,  Pine  Apple  Place,  Maida  Vale, 
W.,  and  Adiantum  cajpillus-veneris  Admirable,  and  Scolopendrium  vul- 
gare  Consummation,  both  very  pretty,  from  E.  J.  Lowe,  Esq.,  Hillfield 
House,  Nottingham.  All  the  above  were  deservedly  awarded  first- 
class  certificates.  Amongst  the  new  plants  shown  that  received  no 
awards,  mention  must  he  made  of  a  very  bold,  robust-growing  variety 
of  Lomaria  gibba,  which  will  no  doubt  be  much  valued  for  exhibition 
purposes,  exhibited  by  Mr.  Douglass,  Loxford  Hall,  Ilford.  At  the 
same  meeting,  Messrs.  Carter  and  Co.,  237  and  238,  High  Holborn, 
W.C.,  exhibited  fruit  of  the  Solanum  eiliatum,  which  promises  to  be 
of  immense  value  for  conservatory  decoration.  The  fruit  is  quite 
round,  averaging  an  inch  in  diameter,  and  is  of  a  very  deep  red 
colour.  The  plants  are  said  to  be  neat  and  compact  in  growth,  and 
well  adapted  for  pot  culture. 

The  competition  between  Mr.  Turner  and  Messrs.  Lane  and 
Sons,  for  the  prizes  offered  by  the  Society  for  nine  specimen  Ivies 
was  very  spirited  ;  the  former,  however,  succeeded  in  carrying  oft'  the 
first  prize  with  splendid  specimens  of  the  leading  varieties.  Mr. 
Turner  also  exhibited  a  very  fine  bank  of  Aucubas,  comprising  well- 
berried  examples  of  the  best  varieties,  and  Mr.  B.  S.  Williams,  Vic- 
toria and  Paradise  Nurseries,  Upper  Hollo  way,  exhibited  a  fine 
variety  with  yellow  berries,  which  has  now  retained  its  character  for 
the  last  five  years.  This  is  a  most  desirable  acquisition  because  of 
the  striking  appearance  it  has  when  placed  in  conjunction  with  the 
scarlet-berried  varieties. 

Prizes  w-ere  offered  for  kitchen  apples  and  pears,  three  dishes  of 
each,  and  the  first  prize  in  both  classes  was  taken  by  Mr.  Turner, 
who  exhibited  grand  examples  of  Golden  Noble,  Blenheim  Orange, 
and  Alfriston  Apples  ;  and  Vicar  of  Winkfield,  Cat  iliac,  and  IJvedale 
St.  Germain  Pears,  all  of  which  are  first-rate  for  use  at  this  season  of 
the  year.  Fine  collections  in  both  classes  were  put  up  by  numerous 
other  exhibitors,  but  it  would  take  up  more  room  than  could  well 
be  afforded,  to  give  the  names.  The  varieties  staged  in  all  the  collec- 
tions were  chiefly  the  same  as  those  enumerated  above.     Amongst 


60  THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 

the  miscellaneous  fruit  exhibited,  occurred  a  dish  of  the  Fairy  Apple, 
a  showy  variety  of  the  Siberian  Crab,  of  which  it  is  difficult  to  say 
too  much.  The  fruit  is  rather  small,  very  highly  coloured,  and  as 
the  trees  are  very  productive,  a  few  specimens  placed  in  prominent 
parts  of  the  shrubbery  would  have  a  very  beautiful  appearance  during 
the  summer  and  autumn. 

It  will  no  doubt  interest  many  to  know  that  grapes  can  be  cut 
from  the  vine,  and  kept  for  several  months,  with  the  end  of  the 
branch  inserted  in  water.  Mr.  Cole,  the  head  gardener  at  Ealing 
Park,  and  one  of  the  best  grape-growers  in  the  country,  keeps  a 
portion  of  his  last  crop  in  this  way,  and  was  able,  last  summer, 
to  send  fine  plump  samples  of  Lady  Downe's  Seedliug  to  table  as 
late  as  the  middle  of  May.  Soon  after  Christmas  the  bunches  are 
cut  with  about  nine  inches  of  wood  below  the  bunch,  and  the  ends  of 
the  branches  inserted  in  bottles  filled  with  water,  and  suspended  in 
the  fruit  room,  where  the  berries  remain  plump  until  long  after  the 
crop  in  the  first  house  is  ready  for  table.  The  flavour  does  not  suffer 
the  slightest  deterioration  because  of  the  wood  being  placed  in 
water.  The  advantages  of  keeping  grapes  in  this  way  are  manifold  ; 
but  the  most  important  consists  in  enabling  the  cultivator  to  prune 
the  vines  before  the  sap  is  in  active  circulation,  and  avoid  the  evils 
arising  from  the  loss  of  sap,  which  always  occurs  when  the  vines  are 
pruned  late.  Grapes  grown  in  a  ground  vinery  may  also  be  kept  in 
the  same  way  for  a  lengthened  period.  E.  G. 


THE  GAEDEN"  GUIDE  EOE  FEBRUAEY. 

Flower  Garden. — The  unoccupied  beds  should  be  trenched  or 
dug  up  deeply,  and  have  a  liberal  dressing  of  manure.  Shallow 
digging  and  want  of  food  are  the  principal  causes  of  such  subjects 
as  verbenas  and  calceolarias  failing  in  dry,  hot  summers.  Any  altera- 
tions that  may  be  on  hand  should  be  completed  without  delay,  for  the 
ordinary  routine  of  garden  work  will  be  quite  sufficient  to  occupy 
the  hands  and  head  for  the  next  two  months.  New  turf  should  be 
laid  down  as  speedily  as  possible,  to  enable  it  to  get  rooted  before 
the  dry,  hot  weather  is  upon  us.  This  is  a  suitable  season  for 
making  gravel  walks  and  new  box-edgings,  as  it  gives  the  one  time 
to  get  consolidated,  and  the  other  rooted,  before  summer.  Com- 
plete the  planting  of  deciduous  trees  and  shrubs,  towards  the  end  of 
the  month,  if  the  weather  should  be  mild  and  open,  unless  the 
situation  is  low  and  wet — in  that  case,  it  must  be  deferred  until  the 
soil  gets  into  favourable  condition. 

Kitchen  Garden. — Continue  to  prepare  the  ground  ready  for 
the  summer  crops,  so  that  there  may  be  no  delay  in  getting  each 
crop  in  at  its  proper  season.  With  this  object  in  view,  every  plot 
of  ground  should  be  manured  and  dug  directly  it  becomes  vacant. 
It  evinces  a  great  want  of  neatness  and  order  to  see  whole  quarters 
covered  with  old  stumps   of  broccoli  and  winter  greens  until  the 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND   GARDEN    GUIDE.  61 

moment  they  are  required  for  other  crops,  apart  from  the  injury 
arising  to  succeeding  crops  through  the  non-pulverization  of  the 
soil.  Plant  chives,  garlic,  horseradish,  Jerusalem  artichokes, 
rhubarb,  and  shallots,  and  also  propagate  perennial  herbs  by  division 
and  offsets.  Towards  the  end  of  the  month,  sow  in  sheltered  posi- 
tions Walcheren  broccoli,  Brussels  sprouts,  Early  York  and  Red 
cabbage,  Early  Horn  carrots,  chervil,  leeks,  lettuce,  parsley,  long 
and  turnip  radishes,  Early  TJlm  savoys,  spinach,  turnips,  and  Windsor 
beans.  Plant  out  autumn-sown  cabbage  and  lettuce,  if  the  soil  is 
in  a  nice  friable  condition.  Spread  seed  potatoes  out  to  enable  them 
to  form  hard  purple  sprouts  by  planting  time. 

Ebuit  Garden. — The  planting  and  pruning  of  all  kinds  of  fruit- 
trees  must  be  finished  at  once.  In  nailing  wall-trees,  use  new 
shreds,  and  have  them  long  enough  to  allow  plenty  of  room  for  the 
shoots  to  swell  when  growing. 

Greenhouse. — In  frosty  weather  use  just  sufficient  fire  to  keep 
the  frost  out,  as  the  employment  of  a  largo  amount  of  fire-heat  at 
that  time  is  injurious  to  nearly  all  the  greenhouse  plants.  After 
two  or  three  damp  days,  light  a  fire  to  warm  the  pipes,  to  allow 
the  ventilators  to  be  open,  without  the  temperature  being  materially 
lowered,  and  at  the  same  time  set  the  air  in  motion,  and  drive  out 
the  stagnant  atmosphere,  which  soon  accumulates,  without  ventila- 
tion. A  few  fuchsias  should  be  started  in  a  genial  warmth,  to  fur- 
nish cuttings  for  growing  on  for  midsummer  and  autumn  flowering. 
Autumn-struck  plants  of  show  and  fancy  pelargoniums  should  be 
potted  in  five  or  six-inch  pots,  without  further  delay,  and  they  will 
then  make  fine  plants  for  conservatory  decoration.  Camellias  should 
be  carefully  watered,  for,  if  allowed  to  get  too  wet  or  too  dry,  they 
will  soon  shed  their  buds.  Eerns  must  be  kept  rather  dry,  as  they 
are  now  at  rest,  and  unable  to  absorb  a  large  amount  of  moisture. 
Tie  and  train  all  plants  intended  for  exhibition,  whether  hard  or 
soft-wooded,  if  they  require  it,  for  there  will  be  little  time  for  this 
kind  of  work  next  month.  Look  after  green-fly,  thrip,  and  mildew. 
Eumigate  with  tobacco  or  tobacco-paper  for  the  two  former,  and  dust 
with  sulphur  for  the  latter.  All  hard-wooded  plants  require  free 
ventilation,  and  soft-wooded  kinds  to  be  near  the  glass,  with  suffi- 
cient air,  to  prevent  their  drawing  up  weakly. 

Stove. — Ixoras,  Eondeletias,  Ailamandas,  and  Francisceas  in- 
tended to  be  cut  back  should  have  attention  at  once.  They  will 
break  stronger,  and  the  young  growth  will  be  more  thoroughly 
matured  than  would  be  possible  were  the  pruning  left  until  they 
get  into  full  growth.  Plants  of  this  class  must  not  have  more  water 
than  is  sufficient  to  keep  them  in  good  health.  Start  Achimenes, 
Caladiums,  and  Gloxinias.  Good  fibry  loam,  peat,  and  leaf-mould, 
in  equal  quantities,  with  a  sixth  part  of  sharp  silver-sand,  will  grow 
all  these  plants  to  perfection,  if  they  receive  good  management  in 
other  respects.  The  Caladium  pots  should  be  covered  with  a  layer 
of  cocoa-nut  refuse,  to  keep  the  soil  moist  without  its  requiring  to 
be  watered.  Shake  out  ornamental-leaved  Begonias,  and  repot  in 
the  same  compost  as  above.     Do  all  the  watering  in  the  morning. 

Eoectng. — Vines  started  last  month  should  have  a  rise  of  about 


62  THE    FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

five  degrees,  and  those  sufficiently  advanced  should  be  disbudded 
directly  the  bunches  can  be  discerned,  and  tied  in  when  necessary. 
Unless  the  vines  are  in  flower,  maintain  a  thoroughly  moist  atmos- 
phere. Figs  as  they  progress  in  growth  must  have  plenty  of  mois- 
ture at  the  roots,  and  be  kept  well  syringed.  The  temperature 
should  range  from  60'  to  70°  through  the  day,  with  a  fall  of  ten 
degrees  at  night.  Peach  and  nectarine  trees  in  bloom  must  have 
plenty  of  air  to  insure  the  bloom  setting.  Those  started  earlier  will 
now  require  disbudding.  Begin  with  the  foreright  shoots  first,  and 
proceed  gradually.  Keep  the  trees  regularly  syringed,  watch  closely 
for  mildew  after  easterly  winds,  and  apply  sulphur  directly  it  makes: 
its  apjDearance.  See  that  the  inside  borders  are  in  a  proper  state  as 
regards  moisture.  Cherries  and  plums  must  be  started  very  slowly, 
and  have  an  abundance  of  air  when  in  bloom ;  45"  to  50"  will  be 
plenty  high  euough  to  begin  with.  Pines  in  fruit  may  have  a  rise 
of  five  degrees  from  last  month,  if  the  weather  is  mild  and  open  ; 
otherwise,  let  them  remain  the  same.  Succession  plants  "must  not 
be  excited  into  growth  yet,  or  they  will  suffer  irreparable  injury. 
"Water  when  necessary,  but  guard  against  its  getting  into  the 
hearts  of  the  plants.  Fresh  batches  of  asparagus,  seakale,  and 
rhubarb  must  be  put  in  for  succession. 

Pits  and  Frames. — Where  the  frames  are  full  of  bedding 
plants,  draw  off  the  lights  during  the  middle  of  the  day,  if  the 
weather  is  open  and  dry,  otherwise  give  an  abundance  of  air  by  tilt- 
ing the  lights  at  the  back.  Make  up  a  nice  hotbed  for  propagating 
purposes,  and  raising  seedlings.  Bedding  plants  must  now  be  pro- 
pagated largely,  as  soon  as  the  cuttings  can  be  had,  so  as  to  give 
the  plants  plenty  of  time  to  get  strong  and  well  hardened  off  before 
the  time  for  turning  them  out  into  beds. 


Tree  Ferns. — It  is  singular  that  no  mention  of  the  beautiful  arborescent  Ferns 
is  to  be  found  in  the  classic  authors  of  antiquity  ;  while  reference  is  made  to  Bam- 
boos, to  the  Banyan,  or  Indian  Fig-tree,  and  to  Palms.  The  first  mention  of  arbore- 
scent Ferns  is  by  Oviedo,  a  Spanish  writer,  in  1535,  in  describing  the  vegetation  of 
Hayti.  "  Among  Ferns,"  says  this  traveller,  "  there  are  some  which  I  class  with 
trees,  because  they  are  as  thick  and  high  as  Pine  trees.  They  mostly  grow  among 
the  mountains,  and  where  there  is  much  water."  Between  the  tropics,  on  the 
declivities  of  the  Cordilleras,  the  true  region  of  arborescent  Ferns  lies  between  about 
3200  and  5350  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  They  seldom  descend  lower  toward 
the  plains  than  12S0  feet.  The  mean  temperature  of  this  region  is  between  64°  and 
70°  Fahr. 

Evaporation  of  Water  from  Plants. — Some  researches  have  recently,  ac- 
cording to  the  Quarterly  Journal  of  Science,  been  undertaken  by  Von  Pattenkofer, 
on  the  amount  of  evaporation  which  takes  place  from  the  foliage  of  plants.  Th« 
experiments  were  made  in  the  case  of  an  oak-tree,  and  extended  over  the  whole 
period  of  its  summer  growth.  He  found  the  amount  of  evaporation  to  increase 
gradually  from  May  to  July,  and  then  decrease  till  October.  The  number  of  leaves 
on  the  tree  was  estimated  at  751,532,  and  the  total  amount  of  evaporation  in  the 
year  at  539  06  cubic  centimetres  of  water  for  the  whole  area  of  the  leaves.  The 
average  amount  of  rainfall  for  the  same  period  is  only  65  cubic  centimetres  ;  the 
amount  of  evaporation  is  thus  8|  times  more  than  that  of  the  rainfall.  The  excess 
must  be  drawn  up  by  the  roots  from  a  great  depth,  and  thus  prevent  the  gradual 
drying  of  a  climate,  by  restoring  to  the  air  the  moisture  which  would  otherwise  be 
carried  off  bv  the  drainage. 


THE    FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  G3 


NOTICES  TO   CORRESPONDENTS. 

Tecoma  Jasminioides. — A  Two  Tears'  Subscriber. — The  plant  in  question  should 
be  grown  in  a  greenhouse  and  trained  up  the  rafters.  It  may  either  be  grown  in  a 
large  pot  or  planted  out  in  a  border,  but  it  is  not  suitable  for  training  over  a  trellis 
fixed  in  a  pot.  The  most  suitable  compost  is  one  consisting  of  loam,  leaf-mould, 
and  peat,  with  a  sprinkling  of  sand.  If  the  loam  is  full  of  fibre  the  peat  can  be 
dispensed  with. 

Pruning  Jasminum  officinale. — A  Subscriber. — The  growth  should  not  be 
clipped  back,  as  you  suggest  ;  but  instead,  thin  out  all  the  weakly  shoots  and 
fasten  the  others  to  the  walls.  The  longest  branches  may  be  cut  back  to  about  half 
their  length. 

Planting  Flower  Garden. — Dorset. — The  beds  numbered  1,  2,  and  G  ought  to 
match,  and  we  should  recommend  you  to  plant  1  and  2  with  Geranium  Flower  of 
Spring,  and  Verbena  Purple  King  ;  and  6  with  Geranium  Mrs.  Pollock  and  Verbena 
Scarlet  King.  The  bands  across  the  centre  of  3  and  4  ought  to  be  the  same  ;  and  you 
can  employ  either  the  Amaranthus  or  the  Ageratum.  A  band  of  the  Ageratum  and 
an  edging  of  Amaranthus  would  be  decidedly  preferable.  A  band  of  yellow  calceo- 
larias in  each  of  the  beds  would  also  be  suitable.  In  either  case  the  edging  of  both 
beds  should  bs  alike,  but  whether  it  consists  of  the  Golden  Feather  or  the  Amaran- 
thus must  be  left  to  your  discretion.  The  former  will  be  the  most  suitable  if  the 
latter  is  employed  in  the  centre.  The  three  corner  beds  should  have  an  edging  of 
Mangles'  Variegated  Geranium,  and  Iresine  Herbsti  should  be  left  out  of  the 
arrangement.  The  proposed  planting  of  5  is  quite  suitable.  In  planting  7  and  11 
put  the  geraniums  in  the  centre  by  all  means,  and  unless  your  soil  suits  the  Viola, 
we  would  advise  you  to  edge  botli  the  beds  with  Lobelia  speciosa.  The  other 
arrangements  are  quite  right.  Flower  of  Spring  is  much  better  for  edging  pur- 
poses, and  if  you  have  a  sufficient  stock  of  Bijou  you  will  do  well  to  employ  it  iu 
1  and  2,  and  the  Flower  of  Spring  in  9. 

Kainit. — M.  A.  I).,  Northampton.— The  agent  in  this  country  for  the  genuine 
"  Leopoldshall  Kainit,"  to  which  allusion  was  made,  is  Mr.  Meyerstein,  22,  Queen- 
street,  London,  E.C.  There  are,  we  believe,  several  worthless  imitations  sold  under 
the  name  of  Kainit,  therefore  purchasers  should  be  careful  in  buying  this  manure. 

Indoor  Fernery. — 31.  A.  D. — You  will  find  the  desired  information  in  the 
Floral  World  for  July,  1869.  The  "Fern  Garden,"  published  by  Messrs.  Groom- 
bridge  and  Sons,  price  3*.  6d.,  contains  a  chapter  on  the  construction  of  indoor 
ferneries. 

Lime. — M.  A.  D. — Spread  the  lime  over  the  surface  of  the  ground  and  dig  or 
plough  it  in  as  quickly  as  possible. 

J.  S. — You  must  prune  all  the  shoots  before  vegetation  becomes  active,  or  the 
vines  will  suffer  severely  from  loss  of  sap.  No  advantage  would  result  from  prun- 
ing in  the  manner  proposed  in  your  letter. 

H.  G. — No  doubt  the  soil  of  your  garden  is  congenial  to  roses  upon  the  stock 
mentioned,  and  therefore  you  have  nothing  to  fear. 

Mealy  Bug. — P.  S. — Wash  the  plants  thoroughly  with  a  solution  of  Gishurst 
Compound,  prepared  according  to  the  directions  accompanying  it.  The  vines,  after 
the  loose  bark  has  been  removed,  and  the  canes  well  washed  with  the  solution, 
should  be  painted  with  a  second  solution  of  the  compound,  to  which  a  small  propor- 
tion of  sulphur,  soot,  and  clay  has  been  added  to  give  it  consistency.  In  preparing 
the  Compound,  adhere  strictly  to  the  directions,  because  if  used  too  strong  it  will 
injure  the  plants. 

Ornamental-leaved  Begonias. — J.  R.  N. — The  following  are  very  distinct  and 
beautiful,  and  require  the  same  treatment  as  Begonia  Rex,  namely  :  Comte  Alfred 
de  Limminghe,  Marshalli,  Charles  Wagner,  Queen  of  England,  Keramis,  Splendida 
Argentea.  Could  you  oblige  us  with  a  few  details  with  your  name  attached  f 
They  would  be  very  acceptable  to  mr.ny  readers  who  have  only  the  convenience  of 
a  window  for  plant-growing. 

Diseased  Pelargoniums. — M.  A.  L. — The  soil  in  which  the  pelargoniums  are 
grown  has  become  sour,  probably  through  the  pots  being  imperfectly  drained. 

An  Edinburgh  Subscriber  is  informed  that  the  prices  can  generally  be  obtained 
by  application  to  the  leading  nurserymen. 


64  THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

S.  K. — The  chimney  probably  requires  lengthening  ;  a  higher  chimney  fitted 
with  a  "mushroom"  top  would  most  likely  prevent  the  down  draught  putting  out 
the  gas. 

Mrs.  S.  P.,  Pembroke,  is  informed  that  the  plant  is  Acacia  pubescens,  and  can 
be  procured  at  all  the  leading  nurseries.  The  Americans  cook  the  dry  maize  in  a 
wire  cage  placed  over  a  clear  fire.  The  cage  is  similar  in  shape  to  an  ordinary  fire- 
shovel,  but  rather  deeper.  We  cannot  say  whether  the  cage  can  be  obtained  in 
this  country  or  not. 

Name  of  Plant. — A  Subscriber. — We  cannot  undertake  to  name  plants  from 
leaves  only. 

Cacti  Culture. — Amateur. — See  the  Floral  World  for  October,  1869.  The 
other  plants  mentioned  should  be  pruned  slightly  to  prevent  them  becoming  unsightly. 
The  first  series  can  still  be  had. 

Waltonian  Case. — R.  S. — Possibly  the  cuttings  perished  through  improper 
management.  One  lamp  ought  to  be  quite  sufficient.  Geranium  cuttings  ought  not 
to  be  struck  in  a  closed  case.  Try  the  case  again  towards  the  end  of  the  month. 
Joyce's  Stove  is  the  one  we  should  recommend  for  your  purpose. 

J.  F. — The  high  priced  case  is  worth  the  extra  cost.  It  is  very  simple  and 
thoroughly  effective.  The  weekly  cost  of  working  would  not  be  much.  Both  are 
good  cases. 

A  Neiv  Subscriber. — The  plants  should  be  repotted  annually  in  the  autumn. 
Tou  cannot  grow  potatoes  in  a  warm,  dark  cellar,  but  you  may  seakale  and  rhubarb. 

Frozen  Plants. — A  Lady  Gardener  is  informed  that  it  is  quite  too  late  now  to 
do  anything  for  the  plants  that  were  frozen.  Should  she  be  caught  again,  and 
the  frost  gets  in,  she  must  put  mats  over  the  glass,  or  adopt  some  other  means  to 
darken  the  house,  and  keep  the  temperature  as  near  32°  as  possible  for  at  least 
a  day,  and  then  let  it  rise  veiy  gradually.  But  we  cannot  recommend  syringing 
frozen  plants  with  cold  water,  having  seen  it  followed  by  the  death  of  valuable 
plants  that  probably  would  have  survived  if  thawed  gently,  and  in  the  dark. 
Such  things  as  hyacinths  and  tulips  do  not  take  much  harm  from  a  few  degrees 
of  frost. 

Poinsettia  pulcherrima. — Ignoramus. — This  beautiful  shrub  is  easily  grown 
if  it  can  have  stove  heat,  but  in  a  cool  house  cemes  to  no  good.  The  soil 
should  consist  of  turfy  loam,  peat,  leaf-mould,  dung  rotted  to  powder,  and  sharp 
sand,  equal  parts.  If  the  cuttings  are  struck  too  early,  the  plants  are  apt  to 
grow  leggy,  but  if  too  late,  they  may  not  bloom  as  early  as  required,  and  they 
are  usually  required  at  Christmas.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  keep  a  few  old  plants 
to  cut  from  at  Christmas,  as  the  green  leaves  and  scarlet  bracts  are  of  great 
value  in  dressing  vases,  etc.,  etc.  To  make  nice  young  plants,  take  cuttings  in 
March,  and  dib  them  into  pans  filled  with  sand,  and  place  on  a  heat  of  70°. 
Keep  them  rather  dryer  than  cuttings  are  usually  kept  when  in  heat,  but  do 
not  let  them  flag.  When  rooted,  pot  them  in  small  pots,  and  put  on  the  tank 
or  tan  bed  again.  Shift  as  required.  Strike  a  few  more  in  May,  July,  and 
August.  Summer  temperature  65°  to  903  ;  winter  temperature  49°  to  50D,  and 
the  plants  then  to  be  rather  dry. 

Salting  Asparagus  Beds.— J".  Tlr. — Asparagus  may  be  poisoned  by  the  exces- 
sive use  of  salt,  as  any  other  plant  may,  yet  it  will  bear  salting  to  a  great  extent 
without  injury  ;  and  within  a  certain  mark,  salt  is  highly  beneficial.  The  best 
mode  of  using  salt  is  to  sprinkle  the  surface  of  the  bed  every  fortnight,  merely 
applying  sufficient  to  make  a  perceptibly  white  coating,  commencing  in  the  last 
week  of  March,  and  continuing  the  applications  till  the  last  week  in  July.  If  alter- 
nately with  the  saltings  liquid  manure  can  be  applied,  the  growth  will  be  much 
more  satisfactory ;  indeed,  it  is  by  combining  the  two  agents  that  the  "  giant " 
asparagus  is  grown  for  Covent  Garden  Market.  Some  cultivators  apply  a  heavy 
coating  of  salt  in  March,  and  give  no  more  till  the  stems  are  cut  down  in  autumn  ; 
but  this  is  an  objectionable  plan,  because  the  plant  has  more  salt  than  it  can  appro- 
priate in  the  early  period  of  growth,  and  scarcely  any  when  it  in  full  vigour,  and 
engaged  in  forming  the  embryo  buds  that  are  to  furnish  shoots  for  the  next  season. 
Where  it  is  not  possible  to  apply  a  thin  sprinkling  of  salt  every  alternate  week 
throughout  the  growing  season,  the  system  of  heavy  dressing  in  the  month  of 
March  must  be  adopted,  and  the  quantity  applied  should  be  at  the  rate  of  twenty- 
four  bushels  per  acre. 


THE    FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  65 

EMBROIDERY  BEDDING. 

{With  a  Coloured   Illustration.) 

IT  is  so  common  for  critics  of  horticultural  affairs  to  cry 
for  novelties,  that  we  must  offer  them  enthusiastic  con- 
gratulations  on   the   inauguration    of  a   new   idea    in 
bedding,  the  tone  and  purpose  of  which  are  fairly  repre- 
sented in  the  accompanying   illustration.     They   have 
travelled  from  Dan  to  Beersheba,  to  find  the  land  barren  of  ideas, 
though    fruitful  enough   in  geraniums,  verbenas,   and  petunias,  all 
disposed  in  accordance  with  the  several  degrees  of  good  and  bad 
taste  that  have  prevailed  for  half-a-century.     At  last,  after  an  in- 
finity of   grumbling,   the   accustomed    flowers  are    superseded    by 
leaves ;  and,  in  place  of  dots  of  colour  of  the  primary  class,  with 
gaps  of  unclothed  ground  between,  we  have  sheets  of  colour  of  the 
secondary  and  tertiary  classes  quite  covering  the  ground,  and  bear- 
ing such  a  general  resemblance  to  embroidery  as  to  justify  the  name 
by  which  this  system  is  to  be  henceforth  known.     Hitherto  the  best 
examples  of  the  new  system  have  been  developed  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  metropolis.     The  displays  of  embroidery  in  the  "Subtropical 
Garden  "  at  Battersea  Park  last  season  were  remarkably  rich   and 
tasteful,  and  as  meritorious  for  originality  of  design  as  for  the  splen- 
dour of  the  effect  produced.     A  much  less  extensive,  but,  as  regards 
colouring,  equally  artistic  and  effective,   display  was  made  in  the 
nursery  of  Mr.  John  Fraser,   Lea  Bridge  Road — the  planting  aud 
general  effect  of  which  are  faithfully  reproduced  in  the  illustration. 
So  many  subjects  press  for  attention  now,  that  we  must  beg  per- 
mission to  deal  with  this  subject  more  briefly  than  its  importance 
deserves.    Fortunately,  however,  there  are  but  two  important  points 
that   imperatively   demand   notice  in   connection  with   its   leading 
features.     The  first  of  these  is,  that  leaf-colours  only  are  admissible 
— if  flowering  plants  are  employed,  their  heads  of  flower-buds  must 
be  nipped  out  as  soon  as  they  appear ;  for  flowers  of  any  kind, 
unless  they  happen  to  be  quite  inconspicuous,  or  are  so  profusely 
produced  as  to  entirely  hide  their  green  leaves,  only  mar  instead  of 
heightening  the  harmony  of  the  effect,  which   depends  on  breadths 
of  solid  unmixed  colour,  which  flowering  plants  are  quite  incapable 
of  producing.     Thus,  if  we  were  to  plant  verbenas  in  one  of  the 
compartments  of  a  scheme  intended  for  embroidery,  we  should  first 
have  a  thin  field  of  green  leaves,  then  dottings  of  colour  upon  it ; 
and  there   is   no  possibility  of  ordering  the  matter  otherwise — a 
mixed  effect  must  be  the  result.     On  the  other  hand,  by  employing 
leaf-colours  only,  we  secure  oneness  of  effect  in  every  line  or  block, 
and  the  colouring  is  the  same  from  first  to  last,  except  as  to  inten- 
sity ;  and   of  course  the  utmost  intensity  occurs  coincidently  with 
the  complete  development  of  the  plants.     In  other  words,   the  affair 
is  in  its  best  trim  when  the  materials  of  Avhich  it  is  composed  have 
acquired  a  free  growth,  and  have  quite  covered  the  ground,   and   are 
still  fresh  and  bright  with  health  and  their  initial  vigour.     Another 

VOL.    VI. — NO.    III.  5 


66  THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 

point  of  importance  is,  that  schemes  of  this  kind  require  the  neatest 
finishing  ;  and  for  that  reason  difficult  curves  and  angles  should  be 
avoided,  because  of  the  risk  that  the  summer's  growth  may  destroy 
their  proper  contour.  It  is  not  absolutely  necessary  to  finish  the 
boundaries  with  raised  edges  planted  with  echeverias  or  semper- 
vivums,  as  for  the  most  part  has  hitherto  been  done  ;  but  it  is  un- 
questionably a  most  artistic  mode  of  procedure,  and  those  who  can 
do  it  should  adopt  the  plan  until  they,  or  other  fortunate  people, 
shall  discover  something  better.  In  the  example  before  us,  the  edge 
of  the  embroidery  stands  up  square  and  firm  above  the  general  sur- 
face of  the  ground,  and  is  planted  with  two  plants  of  the  house-leek 
family,  the  result  being  a  sharp  line  of  glaucous-tinted  rosettes, 
which  no  other  edging  hitherto  tried  can  equal  for  beauty  and  com- 
pleteness. The  sharp  edge  is  obtained  by  setting  up  planks  on  edge 
to  mark  the  boundary,  and  forming  against  the  inner  side  of  the 
planks  a  brick-like  line  of  earth  by  the  process  known  to  gardeners 
under  the  designation  of  "  slopping  in."  We  may  be  the  better 
understood,  perhaps,  if  we  say  that  the  edge  of  the  bed  is  moulded 
to  a  firm,  straight,  square  line  by  soaking  the  soil  with  water,  and 
then  pressing  it  in  the  form  of  mud  against  the  board.  When  the 
work  has  acquired  consistency,  the  planks  are  removed,  and  the  edge 
is  planted  by  scooping  out  holes  for  the  plants,  and  inserting  them 
just  as  they  are  taken  out  of  small  pots,  without  breaking  the  ball 
of  soil. 

As  remarked  above,  the  principal  furniture  for  an  embroidery 
scheme  must  be  of  leaf  colours.  Perhaps  a  few  such  plants  as  the 
"  pumila"  section  of  Lobelias  might  be  used  ;  but  our  advice  to  all 
is,  to  employ  no  flowering-plant  at  all  for  a  display  until  it  has  been 
first  tried  in  some  obscure,  out-of-the-way  place  experimentally. 
The  colourist  who  will  be  content  to  begin  with  a  few  of  the  most 
easily-managed  and  strikingly  characteristic  of  leaf  plants  will  find 
it  quite  an  easy  task  to  produce  a  sumptuous  display  on  this  system. 
It  is,  in  fact,  a  far  easier  matter  to  produce  a  successful  result  by 
leaf  colours  than  with  flowering-plants,  for  all  the  plants  are 
amenable  to  the  simplest  treatment,  and  they  produce  their  proper 
effect  of  colour  (though,  of  course,  not  in  proper  intensity)  on  the 
very  day  that  they  are  planted ;  whereas  with  flowering-plants  the 
proper  effect  must  be  waited  for,  and  if  the  season  is  unfavourable  it 
may  never  be  produced.  Moreover,  as  the  majority  of  the  very  best 
plants  for  the  purpose  are  nearly  hardy,  and  can  be  quickly  raised 
from  seed,  this  is  a  comparatively  inexpensive  system,  and  therefore 
makes  a  double  claim  for  attention  and  appreciation  on  all  who  are 
in  any  way  concerned  about  the  colouring  of  the  parterre.  Amongst 
the  more  useful  plants  for  leaf-colouring  in  embroidery,  we  may 
mention  Amaranthuses,  Alternantheras,  Perillas,  Centaureas,  Cine- 
rarias, the  Golden  Feather  Pyrethrum,  Cerastiums,  Coleus,  Iresines, 
Sempervivums,  and  Echeverias.  The  scheme  represented  in  the 
illustration  requires  a  border  of  about  seven  feet,  and  should  be 
elevated  about  six  inches  above  the  level  of  the  grass  verge.  The 
outside  edging  on  the  face  of  the  raised  edge  was  formed  of  Semper- 
vivum  californicum,  and  above  it,  on  the  edge  of  the  flat,  was  a  row 


THE  FLORAL    WORLD   AND   GARDEN   GUIDE.  67 

of  Echeveria  glauea.  Next  this  was  a  solid  line  of  Golden  Feather, 
continued  back  in  circles  and  arches,  to  mark  out  the  principal  lines 
of  the  pattern  of  the  embroidery.  In  the  centre  of  every  circle  was 
a  plant  of  Echeveria  metallica,  surrounded  with  Alternanthera 
amoena  and  Alternanthera  amabilis.  In  the  front  of  each  of  the 
arches  or  semicircles  were  rows  of  Amaranthus  bicolor,  backed  with 
two  rows  of  Amaranthus  melancholicus  ;  and  then  proceeding  towards 
the  back,  one  row  each  Centaurea  ragusina,  Iresine  Lindeni,  Coleus 
Verschaffelti,  and  Cineraria  maritima.  A  hedge  of  Arbor-vitae  forms 
the  boundary  in  the  rear.  S.  H. 


MELONS. 

BY    GEOEGE    GBAY, 
Head  Gardener,  Norbiton  Hall,    Kingston-on-Thames. 

ELONS  are  supposed  to  be  difficult  to  cultivate,  because 
they  cannot  be  brought  round,  when  they  have  suffered 
from  neglect  or  bad  treatment,  so  quickly,  if  at  all,  as 
cucumbers  and  a  few  other  things  that  could  be  men- 
tioned. In  reality,  by  attending  to  the  plants  at  the 
right  moment,  it  will  be  found  that  the  difference  in  the  amount  of 
skill  required  to  produce  a  crop  of  melons  and  a  crop  of  cucumbers 
is  by  no  means  great.  Having  had  considerable  experience  in 
melon-growing,  both  for  market  purposes  and  home  use,  and  know- 
ing the  difficulties  the  young  professional  and  the  amateur  horticul- 
turist have  to  encounter,  I  have  ventured  to  send  a  few  notes  on 
the  subject.  Before  dealing  with  the  details,  it  will  be  well  to 
remark  that  they  can  be  grown  in  either  houses  or  pits  heated  with 
water,  or  in  frames  heated  with  or  without  fermenting  materials. 
It,  however,  is  only  the  late  summer  crop  that  can  be  cultivated 
without  the  assistance  of  artificial  heat.  When  grown  in  houses, 
they  should  be  trained  to  a  trellis  fixed  at  a  distance  of  about  twelve 
inches  from  the  glass,  and  the  fruit  supported,  to  prevent  an  undue 
strain  upon  the  vines.  When  grown  in  pits,  they  can  be  either 
trained  to  a  trellis,  or  over  the  surface  of  the  bed  ;  but,  when  ordi- 
nary wooden  frames,  or  "  boxes,"  are  employed,  the  latter  is  the 
most  desirable  method  of  training. 

Let  us  first  deal  with  growing  them  in  houses  ;  and,  in  doing  so, 
it  is  necessary  to  state  that  the  stock  with  which  the  house  is  to  be 
planted  should  be  raised  in  it.  It  is  a  very  serious  error,  although 
very  popular,  to  suppose  that  plants  raised  in  the  close,  moist  atmo- 
sphere of  a  dung-bed  are  suitable  for  planting  in  houses  heated  with 
hot  water.  The  atmosphere  of  the  house  is  too  dry  for  them  ;  and, 
although  direct  failure  does  not  ensue,  much  time  is  lost.  Indeed, 
without  great  care,  the  dry  atmosphere  will  cause  the  leaves  to  curl 
up  and  perish  ;  and,  without  a  slight  shade  in  bright  weather,  they 
will  be  completely  burnt  up.     On  the  other  hand,  plants  raised  in 


68  TIIE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

the  house  grow  up  and  become  accustomed  to  the  somewhat  dry 
atmosphere,  and  are  consequently  better  able  to  battle  with  its  un- 
congeniality.  It  is  a  most,  excellent  plan  to  sow  the  seed  singly  in 
small  60-size  pots,  filled  about  half  full  of  soil,  and  then  to  earth 
up  the  young  plants  until  the  pots  are  filled.  It  is  very  important 
not  to  keep  the  plants  starving  in  pots,  and  everything  should  be  in 
readiness  for  their  being  planted  by  the  time  the  leader  is  fairly 
formed.  The  early  crops  must  have  the  assistance  of  a  genial 
bottom-heat,  which  can  be  supplied  either  by  hot-water  pipes  along 
the  bottom  of  the  bed,  or  by  fermenting  materials.  If  fermenting 
materials  are  employed,  they  should  be  put  in  the  bed  before  the 
seed  is  sown,  to  aftbrd  time  for  the  bed  to  become  thoroughly  sweet 
and  consolidated  by  the  time  the  plants  are  ready  for  turning  out. 

Prepare  the  compost  by  mixing  a  small  portion  of  leaf-mould 
with  sound  turfy  loam,  just  to  keep  it  open.  Manure  must  not  be 
employed,  as  it  encourages  an  over-luxuriant  growth,  and  renders 
the  plants  liable  to  be  attacked  with  canker,  which  is  one  of  the 
worst  enemies  the  melon  has  to  contend  with.  When  prepared,  put 
the  compost  in  a  ridge  of  about  fifteen  inches  in  thickness,  and  about 
twenty  inches  in  width,  down  the  centre  of  the  beds,  and  beat  it 
very  firm  with  the  back  of  the  spade.  Plant  when  the  soil  has 
become  nicely  warmed;  and,  if  the  heat  of  the  fermenting  material 
exceeds,  or  is  likely  to  exceed,  90°,  lay  a  few  strips  of  turf  under 
the  ridge,  to  prevent  the  possibility  of  the  roots  being  injured  by 
the  heat.  In  a  few  weeks  the  roots  will  penetrate  to  the  outside  of 
the  ridge,  and  then  put  about  six  or  nine  inches  of  soil,  of  the  same 
temperature  as  that  of  the  house,  on  each  side ;  and  repeat  the 
operation  as  required,  until  the  space  allotted  to  the  bed  is  filled. 

Each  plant  must  be  trained  up  with  a  single  shoot,  and  sup- 
ported with  a  neat  stake,  until  the  trellis  is  reached  ;  then  nip  out 
the  point  of  each,  and  train  the  side-shoots  regularly  over  the  trellis, 
to  afford  each  an  equal  amount  of  space.  Allow  each  shoot  to  extend 
to  the  limits  of  the  trellis,  and  then  stop  it.  This  will  cause  the 
production  of  laterals,  most  of  which  will  show  one  or  more  fruit. 
If  the  trellis  is  likely  to  become  over-crowded,  thin  out  a  few  of  the 
weakest  laterals,  reserving  the  final  thinning  until  the  fruit  is  set ; 
but  a  large  amount  of  growth  must  not  be  removed  at  one  time. 
In  fine,  open  weather  in  the  summer,  the  flowers  will  generally 
become  fertilized  by  insect  agency ;  but,  as  a  rule,  the  safest  plan  is 
to  fertilize  them  artificially,  by  taking  off  the  male  blossom,  and 
dusting  the  pollen  on  to  the  stigma  of  the  fruit-bearing  flower. 
The  bed  must  have  a  thorough  soaking  of  water  just  before  the 
principal  portion  of  the  fertile  flowers  expand,  and  then  no  more 
must  be  applied  until  the  fruit  has  attained  the  size  of  a  small  hen's 
egg,  or  they  will  turn  yellow  and  fall  off. 

Ventilate  freely  whenever  the  air  can  be  admitted  without  ex- 
posing the  plants  to  cold  draughts,  which  are  most  injurious,  and  at 
other  times  only  admit  sufficient  air  to  maintain  a  pure  atmosphere. 
Shut  up  early,  and  syringe  the  foliage  with  tepid  water  to  keep  free 
from  red  spider  and  thrips,  and  to  maintain  a  healthy  growth.  A 
few  cans  of  water  should  be  thrown  on  the  paths  two  or  three  times 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 


69 


a  day,  as  time  will  permit,  in  dry  hot  weather,  and  also  syringe  in 
the  morning,  as  well  as  in  the  afternoon,  during  the  summer  months. 
Syringing  in  the  morning  must  be  done  early  enough  to  admit  of 
the  foliage  becoming  dry  before  the  sun  shines  upon  it,  because  if 
the  sun  is  allowed  to  act  upon  it  when  wet  it  will  be  severely  injured. 
Syringing  must  be  discontinued  during  the  period  stated  for  with- 
holding the  water,  and  also  as  soon  as  the  fruit  has  reached  its  full 
size.  If  continued  after  the  above-mentioned  period,  the  fruit  will 
crack,  and  of  course  be  quite  worthless. 

When  cultivated  in  ordinary  wooden  frames,  it  is  necessary  to 
have  the  fermenting  materials  well  sweetened.  A  mixture  of  stable 
manure  and  leaves  is  better  than  all  manure,  as  the  heat  is  steadier 
and  lasts  much  longer.  The  fermenting  materials  should  be  turned 
over  several  times,  and  watered  if  it  appears  likely  to  heat  dry.  The 
bed  should  be  about  three  feet  in  thickness,  and  a  little  larger  each 
way  than  the  frame  ;  and  in  making  up  must  be  beaten  very  firm  with 
the  fork,  and  also  sprinkled  with   water,  unless  the  materials  are 


GILBERT  S   IMPBOVED   VICTORY   OF   BATH. 

very  moist.  Place  the  frame  upon  the  bed,  and  put  sufficient  inside 
to  raise  the  bed  about  nine  inches  when  well  trodden.  Put  the  lights 
on,  and  tilt  them  at  the  back  sufficiently  to  enable  all  noxious  exha- 
lations that  rise  from  the  manure  to  escape.  In  two  or  three  days 
cover  the  whole  surface  with  a  thin  layer  of  loam,  and  place  a  hillock 
of  soil  in  the  centre  of  each  light,  with  a  layer  of  turf  underneath 
for  the  purposes  stated  above.  In  a  few  days  the  plants  can  be  put 
out,  one  or  two  to  each  light,  according  to  its  size.  Make  one  or 
two  holes  in  the  centre  of  each  hillock  just  large  enough  to  receive 
the  pots,  then  turn  the  plants  out,  drop  them  in  their  places,  press 
the  soil  firm  about  them,  and  water  liberally  to  settle  the  soil.  Then 
keep  close  for  a  few  days,  and  shade  lightly. 

Stop  the  plauts  when  they  have  four  or  five  joints  each,  traiu 
out  the  side-shoots  regularly  over  the  bed,  and  stop  them  just  before 
they  reach  the  side  of  the  frame,  and  deal  with  them  as  advised  for 
managing  them  in  the  houses.  Here  let  me  state  that  the  young 
growth,  after  the  laterals  are  produced  from  the  side-shoots,  must 
be  well  thinned  out,  both  in  frames  and  houses,  to  prevent  over- 
crowding.    When  the  frame  or  trellis  is  filled  with  healthy  growth 


70  THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND   GARDEN   GUIDE. 

and  the  fruit  set,  the  young  shoots  that  are  produced  afterwards, 
unless  specially  required,  should  be  removed  with  the  finger  and 
thumb  as  soon  as  they  are  two  or  three  inches  in  length.  In 
removing  full-grown  leaves,  which  will  be  necessary  occasionally, 
pinch  them  off  just  under  the  blade,  and  leave  the  leaf-stalk,  for 
when  the  latter  is  cut  off  at  its  base  the  stem  frequently  cankers  and 
perishes.  The  laterals  which  have  to  carry  fruit  must  not  be  stopped 
at  all,  whether  in  frames  or  houses.  Fruit  in  frames  must  be  elevated 
above  the  foliage  by  means  of  flower-pots  turned  bottom  upwards. 
Syringing,  watering,  earthing  up,  and  other  details,  must  be  carried 
out  in  the  manner  advised  for  the  management  of  the  plants  in  the 
houses. 

I  have  frequently  grown  good  crops  in  frames  that  are  usually 
occupied  with  bedding  plants  during  the  winter,  without  any  artificial 
heat  at  all.  A  few  plants  are  put  in  eight-inch  pots  in  April,  and 
grown  on  in  one  of  the  houses,  and  the  necessary  steps  taken  to 
insure  their  being  well  hardened  off  by  planting- time.     Then,  im- 


COXS   GOLDEN   GEM. 


mediately  the  bedders  are  removed,  two  or  three  barrowfuls  of  the 
leaves  or  tan  upon  which  they  were  placed  is  taken  out  from  the 
centre  of  each  light,  and  replaced  with  soil,  prepared  as  advised  for 
the  houses.  The  frames  are  closed  early  in  the  afternoon  to  econo- 
mize the  sun-heat,  and  the  plants  syringed  at  the  same  time,  excepting 
when  the  fruit  is  setting  and  after  it  has  nearly  reached  its  full  size. 
It  is  important  to  give  plenty  of  air  when  the  fruit  is  setting,  and  in 
warm  weather  the  lights  may  be  drawn  off  for  a  few  hours  in  the 
middle  of  the  day.  In  all  other  respects  the  treatment  should  be  the 
same  as  advised  for  frames  where  fermenting  materials  are  employed. 
As  it  requires  from  three  to  four  months  from  the  time  of  sowing 
the  seed  until  the  fruit  reaches  maturity,  the  cultivator  must  shape 
his  course  accordingly.  For  the  early  crops,  when  heat  is  maintained 
by  artificial  means,  the  temperature  should  range  from  70°  to  75° ; 
but  with  sun-heat  it  may  go  up  to  85°  or  90°  with  plenty  of  air. 
The  beds  must  not  be  kept  in  a  constantly  saturated  state,  but  moist 


THE    FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  71 

enough  to  maintain  a  healthy  growth.  Watering  must  not  be 
neglected  until  the  soil  is  dust-dry,  or  the  fruit  will  split  when  the 
bed  is  watered. 

Four  sorts  are  quite  sufficient  for  an  ordinary-sized  garden. 
Probably  the  two  best  green-fleshed  varieties  in  cultivation  are  Cox's 
Golden  Gem  and  Gilbert's  Improved  Victory  of  Bath,  now  being  sent 
out  by  Messrs.  J.  Carter  and  Co.,  of  High  Holborn.  The  former 
was  raised  by  Mr.  Cox,  gardener  to  Earl  Beauchamp,  Madresfield 
Court,  and  the  latter  by  Mr.  Gilbert,  gardener  to  the  Marquis  of 
Exeter,  Burghley.  Both  are  robust  in  constitution,  free  setters, 
and  the  fruit,  which  is  of  a  large  size,  is  very  handsome  in  appear- 
ance and  most  excellent  in  flavour.  There  are  several  other  good 
sorts,  but  with  the  above  no  other  will  be  required.  The  best 
scarlet-fleshed  varieties  are  Malvern  Kail  and  Turner's  Scarlet 
Gem.     As  a  rule  green-fleshed  melons  have  the  finest  flavour. 


THE  BEGINNER  IN  GRAPE-GROWING— No.  III. 

BY   WILLIAM    COLE, 

Head  Gardener,  Ealing  Park,  Middlesex. 

TINERIES    AND    VINE    BORDERS. 

fUILDING  a  vinery  without  having  a  properly-prepared 
border  for  the  reception  of  the  vines  may  be  put  down 
as  so  much  money  wasted,  excepting  so  far  as  the  house 
is  useful  for  wintering  bedding  plants.  A  "  properly- 
prepared  border"  is  not  an  extravagant  affair,  yet  it  is 
the  rock  upon  which  so  many  grape-growers  founder.  I  could  name 
dozens  of  gardens  where  the  proprietors  have  built  handsome  and 
roomy  houses,  and  have  incurred  a  large  outlay  in  the  purchase  of 
vines  to  plant  them  with,  but  directly  the  purchase  of  soil  was 
mooted  they  buttoned  up  their  pockets,  and  refused  sufficient  means 
to  make  the  borders  in  a  satisfactory  manner.  But  I  will  refrain,  as 
it  would  serve  no  useful  purposes. 

We  will  first  speak  of  the  vinery,  of  which  it  is  not  necessary  to 
say  much,  because  so  much  depends  upon  the  means  at  disposal. 
As  these  notes  are  written  entirely  for  amateurs,  who  naturally  are 
anxious  to  be  as  economical  as  possible,  I  have  selected  for  illustrating 
them  some  designs  of  "  Paxton"  vineries,  erected  in  various  parts  of 
the  country  by  Messrs.  Hereman  and  Morton,  14,  Tichborne  Street, 
Regent  Quadrant,  London,  wTho  possess  the  exclusive  right  of  manu- 
facturing them.  The  cheapness,  portability,  and  general  excellence 
of  these  houses  have  been  already  described  in  these  pages,  therefore 
it  is  not  necessary  to  enlarge  upon  their  merits.  It  appears,  how- 
ever, desirable  to  state  that  the  manufacture  of  Paxtonians  is  not 
confined  to  the  plain  forms  here  illustrated,  which  have  been  selected 
simply  for  their  cheapness  and  utility,  but  can  be  had  in  the  most 
artistic  designs.      For  very  early,  or  for  very  late  work,  lean-to 


72 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 


houses  of  a  sharp  pitch,  as  illustrated  in  Figs.  1  and  2,  are  the  best 
forms  that  could  be  adopted.  A  much  steadier  heat  can  be  main- 
tained in  a  lean-to  house  than  in  a  span-roof  during  the  winter  and 
early  spring  months,  and  late  grapes  keep  better  in  them.     Why 


Fig.  1. — Section  of  eaely  or  late  Vinery. 

this  is  so  could  be  readily  explained,  but  it  would  take  up  more 
space  than  can  be  well  afforded,  and  for  all  practical  purposes  it  is 
sufficient  to  put  on  record  that  such  is  the  fact.  The  advantages  of 
span-roofed  houses  over  lean-to's  consists  in  their  being  cheaper  in 
proportion  to  their  capacity.  For  instance,  the  same  quantity  of 
grapes  may  be  grown  in  a  span  'roof  house   fifty  feet  long  as  in  a 


Fig.  2. — View  of  early  or  late  Vinery. 

lean-to  double  that  length.  Supposing  the  length  of  the  roof  to  be 
the  same  in  both  cases,  the  expense  of  the  back  wall  would  be 
entirely  saved,  as  the  cost  of  the  wood-work,  glass,  front  walls,  and 
heating  apparatus  would  be  the  same  for  either  lean-to  or  span.     In 


THE    FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 


73 


building  lean-tohouses  for  early  work,it  is  essential  that  the  roof  should 
have  a  sharp  pitch  like  that  shown  in  figs.  1  and  2,  because  such  a 
powerful  fire  is  not  required  to  keep  up  the  proper  temperature 
during  a  severe  frost.  The  sun  also  shines  more  directly  upon  the 
roof  during  the  short  days,  and  the  vines  derive  the  fullest  possible 
benefit  from  its  rays.  For  the  late  summer  and  autumn  crops  a 
flatter  roof  is  desirable. 

In  building  span-roof  houses,  with  roofs  from  twelve  to  sixteen 
feet  in  length,  the  walls  must  be  stronger  than  those  required  for 
lean-to's,  as  the  strain  upon  them  is  much  greater.  The  ends  should 
also  face  due  north  and  south,  although  a  slight  deviation  from  that 
rule  will  not  matter  much.  The  roofs  should  have  a  sharper  pitch 
thau  those  of  a  bmaller  size.     Fig.  3  is  a  fair  example  of  the  angle 


P^» 


Fig.  3. — Span-roof  Vinery  foe.  Summer  and  Autumn. 


at  which  they  should  be  fixed.  Front  lights  are  not  required  for 
any  of  the  houses,  although  there  is  no  objection  to  their  employ- 
ment where  the  cost  of  the  structure  is  of  secondary  consideration. 
It  is,  however,  necessary  in  the  case  of  houses  ventilated  at  the  top 
to  have  ventilators  at  the  front,  and  for  this  purpose,  small  wooden 
shutters  in  the  front  wall  will  answer  every  purpose.  The  lights 
ought  not  to  rest  upon  the  border,  as  shown  in  the  accompanying 
sketches,  because  it  renders  it  extremely  inconvenient  to  thin  the 
branches  at  the  lower  part  of  the  vines,  and  also  to  attend  to  the 
vines.     The  front  walls,  or  walls  and  front  lights  combined,  ought 


74 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 


to  be  about  three  feet  in   height,  and  they  should   be   arched  to 
enable  the  roots  of  the  vines  to  extend  to  the  outside  border. 

Heating  must  now  engage  our  attention.  The  early  houses  must 
be  heated  efficiently,  and  lean-to  houses  like  Figs.  1  and  2,  twelve 
feet  wide,  and  the  same  in  height,  ought  to  have  not  less  than  six 
rows  of  four-inch  pipes,  four  rows  along  the  front  where  the  two 
are  shown,  and  two  next  the  wall  at  the  back.  Second  early  houses 
should  have  not  less  than  four  rows,  and  all  others  two.  There  will 
be  no  harm  in  having  more  pipes  than  here  advised,  because  they 
will  not  require  to  be  made  so  hot  to  maintain  the  desired  temperature. 
It  will  be  false  economy  to  fix  less  pipes  than  here  advised,  as  a 
stronger  fire  will  be  required  to  maintain  the  desired  temperature, 
and  the  heat  will  not  be  so  congenial.  Span-roof  houses,  double 
the  width  of  lean-to's,  will  require  rather  more  than  double  the 
quantity  of  piping,  because  they  are  more  exposed  to  the  north  and 
easterly  winds.  The  pipes  should  be  supported  on  pillars  of  brick- 
work that  rest  upon  the  concrete  at  the  bottom  of  the  border,  or  when 
the  border  sinks  they  will  become  displaced,  the  joints  leak,  and  the 
rapid  circulation  of  the  water  be  impeded.  During  the  erection  of  the 
houses  active  preparation  of  the  materials  for  making  the  vine 
border  should  be  going  on.  Where  the  border  is  to  be  entirely  below 
the  surface,  the  soil  must  be  taken  out  to  a  depth  of  four  feet,  and 
the  foundation  of  the  walls  should  be  rather  below  that,  so  that  they 
are  not  interfered  with  in  making  the  border.  The  bottom  of  the 
borders  should  be  perfectly  hard  and  unbroken,  and  for  span-roof 
houses  slope  in  the  manner  shown  in  Fig.  4,  with  drains  at  D,  D,  D, 


Fig.  4. — Section  of  Span-roof  Vinery  (to  show  slope  of  border). 


to  carry  off  the  water  quickly ;  but  the  borders  of  lean-to  houses 
should  have  a  uniform  slope  from  the  back  wall  to  the  other  side  of 
the  border,  at  the  rate  of  half  an  inch  to  the  foot.  Inside  the  house, 
the  surface  of  the  borders  must  be  perfectly  level,  for  with  the  slopes 
shown  in  the  illustrations  it  would  be  a  work  of  difficulty,  if  not 
impossible,  to  water  them  properly.  The  water  would  run  off  as 
fast  as  it  was  poured  on,  and  a  very  small  quantity  indeed  would 
soak  into  the  soil.  If  from  any  cause  it  is  considered  desirable  to 
elevate  the  surface  of  the  inside  border  above  the  level  of  the  path, 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  75 

a  nine-inch  wall,  with  a  neat  coping,  set  in  cement,  should  be  erected 
to  keep  the  soil  in  its  place.  A  wooden  trellis,  laid  on  the  surface 
of  the  border  is,  perhaps,  the  most  desirable  path  for  houses  exclu- 
sively devoted  to  grape-growing.  The  surface  of  outside  borders 
should  have  a  slope  of  two  inches  to  the  foot  to  carry  off  beavy  rains 
quickly.  The  whole  of  the  inside  border,  and  three  feet  of  the  out- 
side portion,  should  be  made  wben  the  house  is  erected,  and  then  it 
can  be  increased  in  width  by  the  addition  of  three  feet  every  second 
or  third  year  ;  but  the  borders  of  houses,  twelve  feet  wide,  will  not 
require  the  first  addition  until  about  the  fourth  year. 

Concrete  for  the  bottom  of  the  border,  to  prevent  the  roots 
striking  down  into  the  subsoil,  should  be  prepared  by  mixing  gravel 
and  hot-slaked  lime  together  until  it  is  of  the  consistency  of  mortar. 
It  should  be  spread  over  the  surface,  about  three  or  four  inches  in 
thickness,  and  sufficient  time  allowed  for  it  to  become  hardened 
before  the  drainage  is  put  upon  it.  Before  the  rubble,  which  should 
be  about  nine  inches  in  thickness,  is  put  in,  a  drain  formed  of  ordi- 
nary tiles  must  be  laid  down  in  the  lowest  position  to  carry  off  all 
tbe  water  that  collects  in  the  bottom,  and  it  must  of  course  be  con- 
nected with  one  of  the  main  drains  of  the  garden,  unless  the  subsoil 
is  of  a  gravelly  nature,  and  then  a  dry  well,  at  a  distance  of  about 
twenty  yards  from  the  border,  will  suffice  for  receiving  the  surplus 
water. 

In  the  preparation  of  the  compost  for  forming  the  borders,  it 
must  be  borne  in  mind  that  vines  require  a  soil  that  will  not  run 
together  in  a  close  unctuous  mass,  but  remain  open  and  pervious  to 
moisture  at  all  times.  Hence,  the  loam  selected,  should  be  taken 
from  the  surface,  say  to  a  depth  of  about  four  inches,  of  common  or 
pasture  land,  so  that  it  has  a  fair  proportion  of  fibrous  matter  in  its 
composition.  To  secure  a  thoroughly  open  compost,  and  one  most 
suited  to  the  production  of  good  crops  of  grapes,  add  to  every  eight 
loads  of  loam,  two  loads  of  brick-rubbish,  one  of  horse-droppings, 
and  250  lb.  of  inch  bones.  If  the  soil  is  of  a  rather  tenacious 
nature,  two  loads  of  burnt  clay  should  be  added,  and  only  one  load 
of  brick-rubbish  used.  Bones,  besides  being  of  immense  service  in 
furnishing  the  vines  with  food  for  several  years  after  they  are  put  in 
the  border,  materially  assist  in  keeping  it  open.  They  are  rather 
expensive,  costing  at  the  present  time  about  £7  a  ton,  but  they  will 
more  than  repay  their  cost.  Chop  the  loam  up  roughly,  and  well 
mix  the  other  ingredients  with  it,  and  in  filling  in  to  a  depth  of 
three  feet,  tread  the  soil  rather  firm.  Before  filling  the  border, 
cover  the  drainage  with  a  thinly  cut  turf,  to  prevent  the  fine  soil 
running  down  between  the  stones  and  brickbats.  The  planting 
must  be  left  until  next  month,  as  these  notes  have  extended  to  too 
great  a  length  to  admit  of  that  part  of  the  subject  having  justice 
done  to  it  without  taking  up  more  space  than  can  be  well  afforded. 

(In  my  last  chapter,  read  in  the  eleventh  line  from  the  top  of  page 
52,  "  to  hand,"  instead  of  "  too  hard.") 


76  THE    FLORAL    WOULD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

GLEANINGS  FKOM  CATALOGUES. 

BY    W.    D.    PRIOR,    ESQ. 

HERE  are  few  more  useful  subjects  connected  with  the 
literature  of  the  garden  than  good  catalogues.  As  these 
are  at  present  arranged  by  the  first-class  firms,  they 
are  not  merely  lists  of  names,  but  contain  a  considerable 
amount  of  interesting  and  scientific  information,  as  well 
as  many  valuable  cultural  directions.  I  have  some  for  the  present 
season  now  before  me  which  suggest  so  many  important  considera- 
tions upon  horticultural  operations,  present  and  to  come,  as  to  appear 
worthy  of  being  placed  before  the  readers  of  the  Floral  World. 

Lack  of  variety  in  the  subjects  used  for  the  summer  beds  has 
long  been  felt  to  be  a  great  defect,  inasmuch  as  there  are  but  few 
comparatively  amongst  first-class  flowers  that  combine  that  union 
of  qualities  which  the  exigencies  of  the  case  demand.  Flowers  used 
for  beds  and  borders,  on  the  system  of  colour-planting  which  gene- 
rally prevails,  should  be  dwarf,  compact,  continuous  in  bloom,  able 
to  withstand  uninjured  equally  the  effects  of  sun  or  rain.  Their 
colours,  whatever  the  hue,  ought  to  possess  brilliancy  in  the  highest 
degree.  Moreover,  simplicity,  and  readiness  of  propagation,  and 
moderate  cost  must  be  added  to  their  other  qualifications.  How  many 
of  the  higher  order  of  perennial  varieties  possess  these  features  ?  Still 
fewer  are  the  instances  to  be  found  amongst  the  annuals.  Hence 
every  novelty  in  this  line  deserves  a  comprehensive  trial.  Happy 
the  hybridizer  or  raiser  who  succeeds  in  producing  a  really  meri- 
torious addition  to  the  lists.  Let  him  deservedly  obtain  hosts  of 
customers,  and  be  able  to  place  a  goodly  balance  to  his  credit  at  the 
bank. 

Amongst  select  plants  for  outdoor  purposes,  the  following  appear 
deserving  general  attention  : — 

Gentaurea  Glementii,  centres  or  edges  of  large  groups,  two  to 
three  feet  high  ;  silver  grey,  like  other  Centaureas ;  plume-like  and 
downy. 

Dicentra  chrysanthra  (Dielytra),  erect  grape-like  gold-coloured 
flowers  ;  blooms  iu  autumn. 

Delphinium  consolida  Jlore-pleno  candelabrum,  a  new  dwarf  race 
of  larkspur,  scarcely  one  foot  in  height;  its  name  derived  from 
throwing  out  curved  branches  like  a  candelabrum  ;  mixed  colours. 

Mignonette,  Parson's  White,  almost  pure  white ;  spikes  six  or 
seven  inches  in  leugth.     Another  mignonette  of  great  value  is 

Reseda  odorata  grandiflora  ameliorata,  pyramidal  form ;  one  to 
two  and  a  half  feet  high  ;  spikes  reddish  tint ;  suitable  for  pots,  and 
grows  quite  a  shrub  in  open  ground. 

Solanum  hybridum,  Wetherill's  New  Hybrids  ;  produces  plen- 
tifully orange-red  berries  during  winter  ;  a  dinner-table  plant. 

Statice  spicata,  dwarf  and  spreading,  elegant  foliage,  free  flowers 
of  lovely  rose  colour ;  beds  or  pots. 

Viola  luiea  grand/flora,  bedder;  hardy,  free-blooming;  if  sown  in 


THE    FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  77 

a  cold  frame  or  greenhouse,  and  transplanted,  soon  grows  and  flowers 
freely. 

Zinnia  elegans,  double  white,  valuable  for  cut  flowers ;  nearly 
always  true. 

The  price  of  these,  according  to  the  catalogue  of  a  first-class 
house,  varies  from  Is.  to  2s.  6d.  per  packet. 

Besides  the  above,  there  are  three  varieties  of  Celosia  worthy  of 
attention,  viz.  : — 

Celosia  atroviolacea pyramidalis,  three  to  four  feet  high,  furnished 
to  the  ground  with  branches  and  spikes  of  bright  purple  flowers, 
eight  to  nine  inches  long. 

Celosia  nana  aurantiaca  pyramidalis,  dwarf  species  from  Cochin 
China,  one  to  one  and  a  half  feet  ;  foliage  light  green  and  branching, 
every  shoot  terminating  with  a  spike  or  plume  of  rich  fawn  colour. 

Celosia  pyramidalis  versicolor,  var.  hybridafoliis  atrobrunneis. 

These  Celosias  are  splendid  for  the  greenhouse  or  conservatory 
in  autumn. 

Leptosiplwn  roseus,  elegant  new  dwarf  annual ;  flowers  bright  rose  ; 
height  three  inches. 

Nemophila  elegans,  dwarf,  free  centre  pure  white,  edged  with 
dark  chocolate. 

Sweet  Pea,,  Invincible,  scarlet ;  glorious  for  a  fence  or  mound. 

Pyrethrum,  Golden  Feather,  invaluable  plant  for  edgings  ;  green- 
ish golden  yellow. 

Sanvitalia  jlore-pleno,  bedder,  bright  golden  yellow. 

Tropceolum  compactum,  Tom  Thumb;  dwarf  bedder;  various 
shades  yellow  and  orange.  Crystal  Palace  Gem,  sulphur  and  ma- 
roon, dwarf.  Grandijlorum  Brilliant,  climber.  Lobbianutn,  var. 
Lucifer,  bright  scarlet,  metallic  leaves. 

OENAMENTAL    GRASSES. 

Arundo  donax,  variegatn,  Arundo  conspicua. 

Gynerium  argenteum  (Pampas  grass)  There  are  three  varieties 
— the  Common,  with  silvery  panicles  ;  the  "  Rosy,"  with  purplish- 
red  panicles  ;  the  "  Variegated,"  with  elegant  striped  leaves. 

Avena  sterilis,  "  Animated  Oats." 

NEW   BOBECOLES    WITH    OBNAMENTED   FOLIAGE. 

Triple-curled  Variegated  perennial  borecole,  for  pots,  or  orna- 
mental shrub  for  the  open  ground  ;  foliage  a  brilliant  melange  of 
purple,  green,  white,  mauve,  olive,  and  yellow. 

Improved  ditto,  similar  to  the  above.  To  keep  them  dwarf  and 
compact,  sow  thinly  in  poorish  soil  in  May ;  transfer  at  any  time  to 
winter  garden. 

FOLIAGE    BEDDEBS. 

One  of  the  most  elegant  and  effective  improvements  in  outdoor 
gardening  that  has  been  made  for  many  years  is  the  adoption  of 
foliage  plants  as  a  means  for  ornament.  There  is  a  chaste  beauty  in 
the  subdued  tones  of  these  plants  highly  satisfactory  to  the  artistic 
eye,  and  in  many  cases  their  forms  are  so  striking  as  to  lend  a  finish 


78  THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

to  certain  situations  which  no  other  class  of  vegetable  objects  could 
supply.     We  will  point  out  a  few  : — 

Amaranthus  bicolor  ruber,  bedder  ;  foliage  plant  ;  bright  fiery 
red,  passing  to  dark  bronze  at  the  margin,  sometimes  tipped  with 
yellow  ;  described  as  one  of  the  most  striking  of  its  line  known. 

Amaranthus  melancholicus  ruber,  very  beautiful,  and  one  of  the 
most  handsome  of  foliage  bedders  that  can  be  raised  from  seed. 

Beta  cicla  Praziliensis,  bedder  ;  crimson  leaves  and  golden  stalks. 

C  ANNAS. 

Cannas  are  invaluable,  and  the  following  are  all  good  : — 

G.  annei,  G.  marginata,  G.  Bihorellii,  good  dwarf  for  small 
gardens  ;  G.  coccinea  vera,  G.  discolor,  C.  jloribunda,  C.  elegantissima, 
G.  grandis,  G.  gigantea,  G.  indica  superba,  C.  musoefolia  hybrida, 
foliage  silvery  shading ;  G.  Peruviana,  C.  P.  nova,  G.  purpurea,  G. 
spectabilis  magnifica,  G.  Warcewicsii  zebrina,  and  C.  zebrina  elegantis- 
sima,  striped. 

Carduus  (Scotch  thistle),  acanthoides,  benedictus,  marianus, 
nigrescens,  remarkable  for  form. 

Gentaureas  (silvery  foliage),  ragusina  compacta,  Glementii. 

Cineraria  maritima  and  C.  platanifolia,  silvery  plants. 

Chamcerops  humilis,  a  most  elegant  hardy  palm. 

Coleus  (many  varieties,  of  coloured  and  edged  leaves,  some  of 
them  almost  rivalling  the  ancectochili  in  effect),  mollis,  scutellaroides 
purpurea  (dark  purple),  Verscliaffeltii,  are  invaluable. 

Eclieveria  metallica,  very  bold,  curious,  and  handsome. 

Humea  elegans,  most  charmingly  elegant ;  may  be  called  a 
"  grass,"  though  it  is  not  one. 

Oxalis  corniculata  rubra,  fine  edging  plant ;  deep  chocolate. 

Perilla  nankinensis,  a  good  poor  man's  plant,  being  cheap  and 
easily  grown. 

Bicinus,  of  various  kinds,  all  remarkable  in  foliage  ;  grand  objects 
in  suitable  positions.  May  be  sown  where  they  are  to  remain,  in 
the  mouth  of  May. 

Wigandia  caracasana,  foliage  picturesque  sombre  green ;  noble 
habit,  some  of  the  leaves  being  three  feet  long  by  two  feet  broad, 
richly  veined  and  undulated ;  the  stem  has  a  crimson  pilose  covering. 

Li  the  selection  we  have  thus  given  will  be  found  the  materiel 
for  an  almost  endless  variety  of  combinations  for  beds,  for  borders, 
or  the  subtropical  garden.  To  attempt  to  give  a  detailed  course 
of  treatment  for  each  would  be  to  swell  this  paper  to  an  inordinate 
length,  and  run  the  risk  of  being  charged  with  unnecessary  tau- 
tology, their  culture  having  been  so  exhaustively  treated,  from  time 
to  time,  in  these  pages.  It  will  have  sufficed  to  have  called  the 
timely  attention  of  floriculturists  to  their  broad  character — a  "  word 
in  season,  how  good  it  is !  " — because  seeds  should  be  sown  as  early 
as  conditions  permit.  It  is  not  a  light  labour  to  wade  through 
catalogues,  and  make  anything  like  a  varied  and  comprehensive 
selection  therefrom.  It  is  hoped  the  above  will  prove  useful  and 
acceptable. 


THE    FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  79 

BEDDERS  AND  BEDDING.— No.  II. 

BY   A   HEAD    GARDENER. 
SELECT  BEDDERS  FOE  ALL  PURPOSES. 

'IRECTTONS  were  given  last  month  for  the  preparation 

of  the  propagating   pit,   etc.,    etc.,  and  provided  they 

were  acted  upon,  everything  will  now  be  in  readiness 

for  commencing  the  propagation  of  the  stock  in  earnest. 

There  is  now  no  time  to  lose,  and  I  will  proceed  at  once 

to  indicate  a  few  of  the  best  and  most  distinct  in  their  respective 

classes  for  gardens  of  limited  dimensions. 

We  will  commence  with 

FLOWERING    PLANTS. 

Ageratums. — The  three  best  are  Tom  Thumb,  Imperial  Dwarf, 
and  Prince  Alfred,  the  heights  of  which  average  four,  eight,  and 
fifteen  inches  respectively,  and  are  very  neat  in  growth.  The  flowers 
are  all  of  the  same  delicate  lavender-blue  hue.  They  can  be  either 
raised  from  seeds  or  cuttings,  but  the  seed  must  be  sown  immediately. 

Calceolarias. — The  most  valuable  of  all  the  yellow  varieties 
is  Golden  Gem.  Gaines's  Yellow  and  Yellow  Prince  of  Orange  are 
both  good,  but  inferior  to  it.  The  best  of  the  brown  sorts  is  Brown 
Prince,  but  it  is  not  effective  enough  for  bedding  purposes.  Very  little 
can  be  done  in  propagating  calceolarias  in  the  spring,  unless  a  few 
plants  were  taken  up  and  potted  in  the  autumn,  as  the  young  stock 
cannot  be  placed  in  heat  and  forced  into  growth  for  the  purpose  of 
supplying  cuttings  in  the  same  way  as  verbenas  and  petunias. 

Deliotropiums. — The  best  of  these  are  Etoile  de  Marseilles, 
Jersey  Beauty,  and  Miss  Nightingale,  all  of  which  have  very  dark 
flowers,  combined  with  a  compact  habit. 

Lobelias. — The  best  of  the  strong-growing  varieties  of  L.  erinus, 
of  which  the  well-known  Speciosa  may  be  taken  as  a  type,  are 
Blue  King,  blue ;  Indigo  Blue,  deep  blue  ;  Speciosa  spectabilis,  very 
dark  blue ;  and  Trentham  Blue,  bright  blue,  with  white  eye.  Pumila 
grandijtora,  azure  blue,  is  the  best  of  that  section ;  it  is  very 
compact  in  growth,  and  a  most  profuse  bloomer.  All  the  above  can 
be  raised  from  seed,  which  can  be  obtained  from  any  of  the  leading 
seedsmen.  The  seedlings  will  not,  however,  be  so  regular  in  growth 
as  those  from  cuttings,  and  the  flowers  will  also  vary  slightly  in  hue. 

Pelargoniums,  Zonal.— A  vast  improvement  has  been  effected 
in  these  useful  bedders  within  the  last  three  or  four  years,  yet  many 
flower  gardeners  still  propagate  and  grow  Tom  Thumb  and  Trentham 
Scarlet  just  the  same  as  if  there  were  no  better  sorts  in  cultivation. 
The  following  are  the  best  of  those  obtainable  at  a  cheap  rate, 
namely,  Scarlet,  Thomas  Moore,  Jean  Sisley,  Vesuvius,  Omega;  and 
for  large  beds,  William  Undenvood  and  Warrior.  Light  Scarlet, 
Excellent  and  Lucius ;  and  for  very  small  beds,  and  for  edging  pur- 
poses Tristram  Shandy.  Rosy.  Scarlet,  Hector  and  Emily  Morland, 
both  of  which  are  good.     White,  Purity  and  White  Wonder.     Pink, 


80  Tllli   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEiN    GUIDE. 

Beauty  of  Lee,  Advancer,  and  Christine.  Salmon,  Gloire  de  Corbeny 
and  Sensation,  but  neither  of  the  last  two  are  of  much  value  in  the 
flower  garden. 

Pelargoniums,  Nosegay. — The  varieties  belonging  to  this 
section  surpass,  in  many  respects,  the  preceding,  although  both  are 
indispensable  to  a  well-kept  flower  garden.  The  best  of  the  older 
varieties  tried  here  are  Charley  Casbon,  orange  scarlet,  dwarf;  Morn- 
ing Star,  same  colour  but  taller,  Geant  de  Batailles,  dark  scarlet, 
Wallham  Seedling  and  Bonfire,  bright  scarlet :  Violet  Hill  Nosegay, 
rosy  scarlet,  dwarf,  and  free.  There  are  many  other  varieties  that 
are  good  bedders,  but  the  above  are  decidedly  the  best  in  the  several 
colours. 

Petunias. — The  following  are  all  good :  Shrubland  Rose,  rose 
white  throat ;  Miss  Earl,  rosy  pink  ;  Purple  Bedder,  purplish  crimson  ; 
Spitfire,  very  dark  purple.  Several  of  the  varieties  will  come  true 
from  seed,  but  to  insure  their  commencing  to  bloom  early  in  the 
season,  the  seed  must  be  sown  immediately.  In  summers  like  that 
of  last  year,  nearly  all  the  varieties  grown  do  well  in  the  open 
borders,  but  they  are  soon  injured  by  rough  weather,  and  therefore 
they  canoot  be  confidently  recommended. 

TropvEOLTJMS. — The  best  of  the  compact  growers  are  Chafer's 
Advancer,  brilliant  scarlet;  Star  of  Fire,  bright  orange  scarlet;  The 
Moor,  blackish  maroon.  The  two  best  trailing  varieties  are  Coo-peri, 
scarlet,  and  Attraction,  yellow.  The  Tom  Thumb  varieties  are  too 
ephemeral  to  admit  of  their  being  recommended  for  beds  ;  for  groups 
in  the  mixed  border  they  will  be  found  very  showy.  They  can  be 
easily  raised  from  seed,  and,  if  desired,  the  seed  can  be  sown  where 
the  plants  are  to  bloom. 

Verbenas. — Eight  varieties  will  be  quite  sufficient  for  any  one 
garden,  and  of  the  immense  number  of  varieties  now  in  cultivation, 
I  decidedly  prefer  the  following — Crimson  King,  very  bright  scarlet; 
Celestial  Blue,  blue;  La  Grande  Boule  de  Neiye,  white;  Spot,  pink  ; 
Laura,  rose  pink;  Karls  Kleine,  maroon  purple;  Purple  King, 
purple  ;  Nemesis,  crimson  ;  Polly  Perlcins,  magenta;  Victory,  scarlet. 
Violas. — The  best  bedders  are  Perfection,  rich  bluish  mauve, 
and  Lutea  grandiflora,  bright  yellow.  They  should  be  employed 
with  caution,  as  they  do  not  do  well  in  many  soils  and  situations. 
The  latter  can  be  raised  from  seed  sown  in  the  spring. 

Ornamental  leaved  Plants. — A  few  of  the  best  only,  and 
such  as  are  likely  to  be  of  the  greatest  service  in  a  small  garden,  will 
be  enumerated. 

Silvery-leaved. — The  variegated  geraniums  will  be  included 
in  this  section,  to  enable  the  planter  to  see  at  a  glance  what  ma- 
terials he  has  available  in  the  same  style  of  colouring. 

Creamy  Variegation. — Carter's  Snowdrop,  Daybreak,  and 
Flower  of  Spring  are  all  neat  yet  vigorous  growers  and  very  effective. 
They  usually  attain  a  height  ranging  from  six  to  nine  inches. 

Pure  White  Vartegation. — May  Queen,  Princess  Alexandra, 
Miss  Kingsbury,  and  Paul's  Snowdrop,  are  all  first-rate  and  of 
medium  growth.  The  two  best  of  the  strong-growing  variegated 
varieties  are  Albion  Cliffs  and  Bijou. 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE.  8L 

Amongst  miscellaneous  subjects  with  silvery  leafage  that  are 
indispensable,  may  be  mentioned  Antennaria  tomenlosa,  a  most  valu- 
able plant  lor  edging  or  for  carpeting  the  surface  of  beds  filled  with 
succulents,  as  it  does  not  exceed  an  inch  in  height.  It  is  perfectly- 
hardy,  and  can  be  readily  increased  by  division.  Achillea  umbellata 
is  very  useful  for  a  narrow  edging,  but  it  is  difficult  to  propagate, 
and  of  slow  growth.  The  Centaureas  are  indispensable.  C.  ragusina 
compacta  for  edging,  C.  ragusina  for  second  rows,  and  C.  gymnocarpa 
for  centres  and  back  rows.  These  can  be  raised  from  seed  sown  in 
the  autumn  or  early  iu  the  spring,  or  from  cuttings  taken  at  the 
same  periods.  Cineraria  asplenifolia  and  C.  acanthifolia  are  both 
very  useful  and  effective  for  edgings  and  second  rows ;  but  they  are 
not  wanted,  excepting  for  the  variety  they  afford,  where  there  is  a 
good  stock  of  Centaureas.  For  very  hot  and  dry  positions  Stachys 
lanata  will  be  found  useful,  but  it  is  coarse  in  growth,  and  should 
not  be  planted  where  better  things  will  thrive.  The  last  on  the  list, 
and  one  of  the  best  of  its  class  for  amateurs,  is  Veronica  incana. 
The  growth  is  very  neat,  seldom  exceeding  three  inches  in  height, 
and  the  leaves  are  of  a  greyish  white  hue.  It  is  perfectly  hardy,  and 
requires  hardly  any  attention  whatever  to  keep  it  in  order.  By 
dividing  the  tufts  in  the  spring  or  autumn  the  stock  can  be  increased 
to  any  extent,  and  it  can  also  be  propagated  from  seed. 

Golden  Leaved. — The  following  are  all  first-rate  in  their 
respective  classes  : — Golden  Leaved  :  Yellow  Boy,  Golden  Banner, 
Crystal  Palace  Gem,  Golden  Fleece,  and  Jason,  for  all  purposes,  and 
Little  Golden  Christine  for  edging  only.  Bronze  Zonals  ■  Kentish 
Hero,  Mulberry  Zone,  Crown  Prince,  Princess  of  Wales,  Mrs.  Lewis 
Lloyd,  and  Sybil,  all  of  which  are  first-rate,  the,  first-named  being 
the  strongest  grower,  and  therefore  the  best  for  large  beds.  Golden 
Zonals  :  Florence,  Louisa  Smith,  Sophia  Dumaresque,  Edwinia  Fitz- 
patrick,  and  Miss  Watson;  the  latter  being  especially  good  for 
edging  purposes. 

Amongst  miscellaneous  subjects  the  following  are  especially  good  : 
Abutilon  Thompsoni  for  centres  and  large  beds;  Fuchsia  Golden 
Fleece  and  Pyrethrum  Golden  Feather  for  edgings.  The  latter 
should  be  raised  from  seed  sown  in  a  cold  frame  early  in  March,  and 
when  strong  enough  transplanted  into  its  permanent  quarters.  The 
seed  may  be  sown  in  the  beds  early  in  April,  and  the  plants  thinued 
out  to  the  desired  distance  apart,  but  it  is  not  such  a  good  plan  as  to 
sow  it  iu  a  cold  frame  as  here  directed.  Many  growers  fail  in  realizing 
their  expectations  of  this  useful  plant  through  sowing  the  seed  100 
early,  and  by  keeping  the  plants  in  a  high  temperature  until  they 
are  two  or  three  inches  high. 

Dark  Leaved. — The  Alternantheras  are  too  delicate  to  be  of 
much  s-ervice  to  amateurs,  but  it  will  not  be  out  of  place  to  mention 
that  A.  magnified  and  A.  paronychioides  are  the  two  best  and  most 
valuable  for  edging.  Amaranthus  melancholicus  ruber  is  very  distinct 
and  effective,  and  can  be  multiplied  by  means  of  seeds  sown  in 
spring.  The  plants  require  a  moderate  amount  of  heat  to  push  them 
along,  and  must  be  well  hardened  off  previous  to  being  put  out  in 
the  beds.     When  it  is  necessary  to  keep  them  dwarf,  they  should 

VOL.  VI. — NO.  III.  6 


82 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 


be  stopped  early,  as  they  seldom  present  a  satisfactory  appearance 
when  allowed  to  run  up  to  a  great  height  and  then  stopped  back. 

Iresine  Lindeni  is  one  of  the  most  valuable  acquisitions  introduced 
for  many  years  past ;  it  is,  in  fact,  the  best  dark-leaved  bedder  we 
have.  The  leaves  and  stems  are  of  a  deep  rich  sanguineous  red,  the 
growth  is  all  that  can  be  desired,  and  it  will  grow  freely  in  cold 
situations,  where  the  Coleus  will  hardly  live.  This  reminds  me  that 
the  Coleus  must  not  be  omitted,  although  they  are  not  of  much 
service  to  people  who  have  no  stove  to  keep  them  in  during  the 
winter.  "We  have  tried  all  the  varieties  here,  and  the  best  for 
bedding  were  Princess  of  Wales,  Emperor  Napoleon,  and  Verstfiaffelti, 
all  of  which  have  rich  chocolate  foliage.  A  great  many  worthless 
sorts  have  been  seut  out  of  late  years. 


DAHLIAS. 


BT      JOHN      WALSH. 

AHLIAS  are  not,  perhaps,  so  popular  as  they  were 
between  twenty  and  thirty  years  ago,  yet  they  are  suf- 
ficiently appreciated  to  justify  a  friendly  chat  about 
them  in  these  pages.  The  splendid  stands  of  blooms 
staged  at  the  Crystal  Palace  and  provincial  exhibitions, 
held  during  the  autumn  months,  afford  evidence  that  they  are  held 
in  higher  esteem  than  many  florists,  especially  those  that  stay  at 
home,  suppose.  It  is  not,  however,  desirable  that  I  should  occupy 
space  so  valuable  as  these  pages  in  discussing  this  point,  and  I  will 

at  once  proceed  to  offer  a  few  useful 
hints  which,  if  acted  upon,  can- 
not be  otherwise  than  of  great  value 
to  the  young  beginner.  The  first 
step  for  the  young  beginner  to  take 
in  the  matter  will  be  to  procure  a 
stock.  Now  the  usual  period  for 
buying  dahlias  is  the  month  of  May, 
when  they  can  be  obtained  at  the 
rate  of  about  four  shillings  per 
dozen.  It  is,  however,  a  bad  time 
to  buy  them,  because  they  are 
generally  very  small,  and  in  any- 
thing but  a  satisfactory  condition 
for  starting  away  vigorously  when 
planted  out.  Instead  of  buying 
young  plants  in  May,  I  should 
strongly  advise  the  purchase  of 
ground  roots  at  once,  and  then  propagate  a  stock  from  them. 
They  will  cost  a  trifle  more ;  but  as  a  large  number  of  plants 
can  be  obtained  from  each,  they  will  be  the  cheapest  in  the 
end.     The  cuttings  strike  very  freely,  and  by  ordinary  management, 


Fig.  1. 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND   GARDEN    GUIDE. 


83 


strong  bouncing  plants  that  will  grow  away  freely  at  once,  and  com- 
mence to  flower  early,  may  be  obtained.  On  the  otber  hand,  when 
small,  weakly  plants  are  put  out,  the  summer  is  past  before  they 
can  make  much  progress,  and  they  are  cut  off  by  the  frost  just 
as  they  begin  to  flower  in  earnest.  These,  then,  are  my  reasons  for 
recommending  the  purchase  of  dry  roots  in  preference  to  young 
plants.  In  the  case  of  new  varieties,  there  is  no  choice  in  the 
matter,  because  dry  roots  cannot  be  obtained,  and  the  trade  cannot 
well  have  the  stock  ready  for  distribution  before  the  period  men- 
tioned above.  This,  however,  is  not  of  much  consequence,  because 
a  little  nursing  when  they  come  to  hand  will  do  wonders ;  but  of 
course  what  would  be  an  easy  matter  in  dealing  with  two  or  three 
plants,  would  be  practically  impossible  with  the  whole  stock. 

First  of  all  it  must  be  stated  that  the  assistance  of  a  genial 
temperature,  between  60°  and  70°,  is  indispensable  to  start  the  roots 
into  active  growth.  It  matters  not  whether  they  are  put  into  a 
greenhouse,   vinery,  cucumber-frame,   or  a  properly-prepared  pro- 


/      V 


Fig.  2. 


-'    A       \ 
>      A       ^ 

Fig.  3. 


pagating  pit,  provided  they  have  the  assistance  of  a  temperature 
between  the  two  extremes.  Perhaps  the  best  way  to  start  them 
would  be  upon  a  bed  of  leaves,  covered  with  an  ordinary  garden- 
frame.  Put  a  layer  of  soil  over  the  interior,  then  pack  the  roots 
rather  close  together,  and  fill  the  space  between  with  fine  soil.  The 
soil  should  be  moderately  moist  when  used,  and  the  surface  be 
within  about  twelve  inches  distance  of  the  glass.  This  will  insure  a 
stocky  and  firm  growth  ;  but  provided  they  can  have  a  moderate 
share  of  light  it  is  not  of  much  consequence  if  they  are  started  at  a 
distance  of  eight  or  ten  feet  from  the  glass.  The  manner  in  which 
the  roots  should  be  prepared  is  admirably  shown  in  the  accompanying 
figures,  which  the  publishers  have  placed  at  my  disposal  for  illus- 
trating these  notes. 

In  starting  the  roots  in  a  bed  of  soil,  or  in  shallow  boxes,  with  a 
considerable  number  in  each,  cut  the  ends  of  the  tubers  off  where 
the  lines  are  drawn  through  them  in  Fig.  1,  and  bury  them  in  the 
soil  to  the  depth  indicated  by  the  dotted  line.  Those  that  are  to  be 
started  in  pots  should  be  trimmed  so  that  they  fit  nicely,  as   shown 


84  THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND   GARDEN    GUIDE. 

in  Fig.  2.  The  tubers  will  bear  a  considerable  amount  of  cutting 
about  without  injury.  Some  growers  propagate  their  stock  by 
dividing  the  roots  down  the  centre,  with  one  tuber  to  each,  and 
theu  shorten  the  latter  to  admit  of  its  being  put  in  a  rather  small  pot. 
This  is  a  very  simple  method,  but  it  is  not  one  that  can  be  recom- 
mended, excepting  when  they  are  required  exclusively  for  home  deco- 
ration, and  the  cultivator  has  only  a  greenhouse  or  cold-frame  to  start 
them  in.  When  the  young  shoots,  which  start  from  the  crown,  have 
attained  a  length  of  about  three  inches,  as  shown  in  Fig.  3,  take  them 
off  with  a  small  heel,  and  put  them  either  singly  in  small  pots,  or 
several  round  the  sides  of  pots  of  a  larger  size.  When  five  or  six- 
inch  pots  are  employed,  a  large  or  small  "60"  should  be  turned  bot- 
tom upwards  in  each,  a  layer  of  small  crocks  then  put  on  regularly, 
and  the  remaining  space  filled  with  soil,  consisting  of  at  least  one- 
half  either  silver  or  clean  river-sand.  When  the  cutting-pots  are 
prepared  as  here  directed,  the  danger  of  the  cuttings  damping  off 
is  reduced  to  the  lowest  possible  minimum,  because  of  the  compara- 
tively small  amount  of  soil  employed.  Small  pots  should  have  a 
good  layer  of  crocks  in  the  bottom,  and  the  cuttings  be  placed  in  the 
middle.  Place  the  cuttings  in  a  warm  corner  of  the  house  or  frame, 
and  partly  plunge  the  pots  in  bottom-heat,  if  available.  Water 
cautiously,  because  if  kept  too  wet,  a  large  number  will  damp  off; 
but  they  must  be  sprinkled  overhead  often  enough  to  keep  them  from 
flagging.  They  must  also  be  shaded  with  thin  canvas  or  paper,  when 
necessary,  and  sufficient  air  admitted  to  keep  the  atmosphere  pure. 
The  cuttings  produced  by  roots  started  in  a  low  temperature,  may 
be  struck  under  a  hand-light,  placed  in  a  warm  corner  of  an  ordinary 
greenhouse. 

When  nicely  rooted,  put  them  singly  into  three-inch  pots,  and 
after  the  second  or  third  day,  begin  to  harden  them  off  gradually,  and  at 
the  earliest  moment  possible  transfer  them  to  a  frame,  where  they  can 
be  efficiently  protected  from  frost.  The  tops  can  be  taken  off,  and 
struck  if  required.  It  will  be  necessary  to  keep  rather  close  for  a 
few  days  after  the  stock  is  removed  to  the  frame,  but  the  frame 
should  be  well  ventilated,  as  they  become  hardy  enough  to  be  exposed 
freely  to  the  air.  When  sufficiently  hardened,  draw  the  lights  off 
altogether  during  the  day  in  congenial  weather.  It  is  a  most  excel- 
lent plan,  although  few  growers  adopt  it,  to  shift  the  whole  stock 
into  six-inch  pots  as  soon  as  those  in  which  they  were  first  put  are 
well  filled  with  roots.  The  difference  at  planting  time  between  those 
shifted  and  the  others  that  are  kept  starving  in  small  pots  is  in- 
credible, and  more  than  sufficient  to  doubly  repay  the  extra  labour. 

A  complete  list  of  the  best  of  the  established  sorts  was  published 
in  the  December  number  of  last  year,  which  buyers  cannot  do  better 
than  take  for  their  guide.  Those  who  are  anxious  to  speculate  in 
the  new  varieties,  will  find  in  the  recent  issue  of  the  "  Garden 
Oracle  "  the  names  and  descriptions  of  the  best  that  will  be  sent  out 
in  the  ensuing  spring. 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  85 

POINSETTIA  PULCHERRIMA  AND   EUPHORBIA 
JACQUINIFLORA. 

BY   J.    W.    STLVEE, 

Head  Gardener,  The  Laurels,  Taunton,  Somerset. 

[HE  relationship  of  these  plants  is  close  enough  to  admit 
of  their  being  here  linked  together,  without  an  apology- 
being  required  for  the  act.  Both  belong  to  the  same 
natural  order,  Euphorbiacece,  bloom  at  the  same  time, 
and  have  bracts  in  one  case,  and  flowers  in  the  other, 
of  the  same  bue.  To  praise  them  beyond  their  deserts  appears  diffi- 
cult, because  the  brilliant  display  they  are  capable  of  producing  in 
the  winter,  when  nearly  all  the  other  stove  plants  are  at  rest,  is 
something  wonderful.  They  are,  however,  seldom  seen  in  good 
condition  in  gardens  of  considerable  pretensions,  and  in  small 
gardens  they  are  very  rarely  met  with  at  all.  This  state  of  things 
is,  no  doubt,  mainly  owing  to  a  want  of  knowledge  of  their  require- 
ments, and  believing  this  to  be  the  case,  I  am  induced  to  offer  a  few 
practical  remarks  on  their  cultivation.  It  must,  however,  be  under- 
stood that  they  are  penned  expressly  for  the  guidance  of  amateurs, 
and  others  whose  knowledge  of  them  is  of  a  limited  cbaracter. 

Let  us  first  consider  the  pretty  Euphorbia  jacqiiiniflor a.  This 
plant  has  a  natural  tendency  to  become  leggy,  and  if  tbe  cultivator 
does  not  use  his  best  endeavours  to  counteract  this  bad  habit,  he 
will  have  plants  resembling  willow  wands,  surmounted  at  the  top 
with  a  few  flowers  and  leaves.  One  of  the  most  frequent  causes  of 
their  becoming  leggy,  is  due  to  their  being  propagated  too  early,  and 
another  cause  is  due  to  their  being  placed  too  far  from  the  glass 
when  in  full  growth.  We  usually  strike  the  cuttings  here  in  May,  and 
the  results  are  such  as  to  show  that  it  is  a  most  suitable  period  for  the 
work.  Asbort  stubby  side-shoot  should  be  selected;  if  not  obtainable 
otherwise,  the  tops  of  the  leading  branches  are  taken  off.  In  either 
case,  insert  the  cuttings  in  small  60's,  at  the  rate  of  three  to  each, 
and  put  them  rather  close  together  in  the  middle  of  the  pot.  They 
will  strike  much  quicker  if  the  pots  are  plunged  in  bottom-heat,  but 
it  is  necessary  to  add  that  they  will  strike  very  well  indeed  without 
that  assistance.  Directly  they  are  nicely  rooted,  place  them  near 
the  glass,  and  do  not  shade  them,  excepting  in  the  brightest  weather, 
as  an  abundance  of  light  is  essential  to  keep  the  wood  short-jointed, 
and  to  insure  its  being  well  matured  by  the  end  of  the  season. 
When  the  pots  are  well  filled  with  roots,  and  not  before,  shift  them 
into  six-inch  pots,  without  dividing  or  otherwise  disturbing  them. 
They  will  only  require  one  shift,  as  this  size  is  quite  large  enough 
for  them  to  flower  in,  and  it  is  also  very  convenient  if  they  are 
required  for  table  decoration,  for  which  purpose  they  are  well 
adapted.  Red  spider  is  rather  partial  to  the  foliage;  therefore,  to 
prevent  the  possibility  of  that  pest  doing  any  mischief,  give  them 
the  advantage,  during  the  summer,  of  a  moderately  moist  atmosphere, 
and   syringe   them  overhead  once  or   twice  a  day.     A  very  high 


86  THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

temperature  is  not  at  all  necessary,  and  with  the  aid  of  a  cucumber- 
frame,  or  house,  for  the  summer  season,  and  an  intermediate  house 
for  the  winter,  they  can  be  grown  most  satisfactorily. 

The  compost  used  here  is  prepared  by  well  incorporating  together 
equal  parts  of  turfy  loam,  fibrous  peat,  and  leaf-mould,  with  sufficient 
silver  sand  to  make  it  feel  gritty  to  the  hand. 

Euphorbia  splendens  is  useful  to  cut  from  for  furnishing  flowers 
for  the  hair,  or  the  hand  bouquet,  during  the  winter  months,  but  it 
is  far  less  useful  and  brilliant  in  colour  than  the  former  species,  and 
it  must  have  plenty  of  room,  because  the  formidable  spines  with 
which  the  stems  are  armed  will  lacerate  the  leaves  of  all  plants  they 
come  in  contact  with.     The  sap  of  these  plants  is  poisonous. 

For  the  assistance  of  those  who  care  to  possess  it,  it  is  necessary 
to  add  that,  instead  of  propagating  a  fresh  stock  every  year,  as 
advised  for  the  other  species,  the  plants  should  be  potted  on,  and 
neatly  trained  to  stout  stakes  fixed  in  the  pots.  A  couple  of  speci- 
mens will  be  quite  sufficient  for  a  moderate-sized  collection  of  plants, 
but  E.  jacquiniflora  should  be  grown  by  the  dozen  wherever  a  bit  of 
brilliant  colour  is  appreciated  in  the  winter. 

The  cultivation  of  Poinsettia  puleherrvma  differs  somewhat  from 
that  of  the  Euphorbia,  and  we  will  now  describe  it.  The  cuttings 
should  be  struck  at  the  same  period  as  advised  for  the  latter ;  but, 
although  they  may  be  grown  in  the  same  way,  it  is  decidedly  prefer- 
able to  have  only  one  plant  in  each  pot.  In  taking  the  cuttings, 
select  the  strongest  shoots,  put  them  singly  in  small  60's,  and 
place  in  a  warm  corner  of  the  stove,  or  cucumber  or  melon- trame. 
when  well-rooted,  shift  into  five-inch  pots ;  and,  if  they  grow  away 
freely,  shift,  repot,  and  use  pots  one  or  two  sizes  larger,  as  may 
appear  the  most  desirable.  If  they  do  not  make  very  rapid  pro- 
gress after  they  are  put  in  five-inch  pots,  it  will  not  be  wise  to  shift 
them  again,  because,  if  over-potted,  they  will  present  but  a  sorry 
figure  at  the  end  of  the  season. 

If  the  conservatory  is  lofty,  a  few  cuttings  should  be  struck 
earlier,  and  grown  on  as  vigorously  as  possible ;  for  tall  specimens 
with  large  whorls  of  bracts  have  a  wonderfully  showy  appearance 
intermixed  with  other  plants. 

The  best  compost  in  which  to  grow  Poinsettias  that  I  have  yet 
tried  is  one  consisting  of  two-thirds  turfy  loam  and  a  third  part  of 
equal  proportions  of  leaf-mould  and  well-decayed  cow-dung.  A 
liberal  sprinkling  of  sand  must  be  added,  and  the  pots  well  drained. 
In  summers  like  those  of  1868  and  1870,  the  plants  may  be  placed 
upon  a  bed  of  coal-ashes,  made  up  in  the  open,  for  about  two  months. 

Both  the  Poinsettia  and  Euphorbia,  as  they  go  out  of  bloom, 
should  be  packed  rather  close  together  in  a  warm,  dry  corner,  and 
very  little  water  administered  to  the  roots,  as  a  long  season  of  rest 
is  most  essential.  After  they  have  been  kept  dry  for  a  short  time, 
prune  them  back,  and  start  into  growth  about  the  middle  of  April. 
When  the  young  growth  is  about  an  inch  in  length,  turn  the  plants 
out  of  the  pots,  shake  nearly  all  the  soil  from  the  roots,  and  repot 
in  pots  of  the  same  size  as  those  from  which  they  were  taken  out  of. 
Train  out  the  growth,  as  it  becomes  necessary,  with   a  few  neat 


THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND   GARDEN   GUIDE.  87 

stakes.  The  safest  time  for  twisting  the  growth  of  the  Poinsettia 
is  just  as  it  begins  to  harden,  which  is  usually  about  the  end  of 
August.  The  plants  intended  for  furnishing  a  supply  of  cuttings 
should  not  be  shaken  out  until  after  the  cuttings  are  secured,  and 
not  then  utiles*  the  stock  is  short,  because  it  is  much  belter  to 
throw  them  away. 


MAIZE,  ITS  USE  AND  CULTURE. 

BY  THE   BEV.  TH.  C.  BREHAUT, 

Of  Richmond  House,  Guernsey. 

[T  the  meeting  of  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society  in 
December,  1870,  Mr.  Brehaut  exhibited  a  large  and 
interesting  collection  of  Maize,  grown  in  his  garden  in 
Guernsey.  It  was  accompanied  by  an  interesting  paper 
on  its  uses  and  culture,  of  which  we  give  an  abstract:  — 
An  experience  of  three  very  dissimilar  seasons  has  been  gained 
since  1867.  A  certain  number  of  varieties  have  been  discarded, 
either  as  too  small,  too  coarse,  or  as  ripening  at  too  late  a  period  of 
the  season  to  make  them  generally  serviceable.  It  was  to  be  expected 
that  the  sorts  which  ripened  the  earliest  would  become  most  in 
demand,  but  there  were  other  conditions  to  be  fulfilled  before  Maize 
could  be  able  to  hold  its  ground  against  so  many  new  and  known 
vegetables.  It  was  not  so  much  a  variety  which  should  serve  for 
cattle,  or  poultry,  or  even  for  grinding  into  flour,  which  was  required, 
for  3uch  are  now  commonly  imported  more  cheaply — at  least,  so  it 
seems  at  present — than  they  can  be  grown  in  our  climate;  but  it 
was  sought  to  popularize  the  manner  of  eating  Maize  so  common  in 
the  States  of  America,  and  in  other  regions  of  the  world  (including 
even  Southern  Europe),  as  "  green  corn,"  i.e.,  in  a  semi-ripened  con- 
dition, when  the  grains  had  acquired  the  consistency  and  size  of  good 
Marrowfat  peas.  The  addition  of  a  table  vegetable  of  this  delicious 
and  nutritious  nature — the  food  of  millions  of  the  human  race — and 
yet,  for  want  of  experience  of  the  sorts  adapted  to  our  climate,  so 
strangely  unappreciated  here,  seemed  of  no  inconsiderable  import- 
ance, the  more  so  as  it  ripened  in  the  late  autumn,  reproducing  then 
the  lost  flavours  of  the  early  pea  and  of  the  asparagus.  For  this  the 
ordinary  yellow  Maize  is  not  suited,  so  that  its  cidture  becomes  of 
little  value.  But  the  collection  here  exhibited  claims  not  only  to  be 
the  most  complete  which  has  probably  ever  been  presented  in 
Europe,  but  it  also  shows  varieties  which  greatly  excel  the  Maize 
known  in  this  country  and  in  France  in  size  and  in  flavour,  while 
they  still  fulfil  the  special  conditions  required  in  earliness.  More 
than  this,  these  ears  are  grown  from  seeds  acclimated  by  three  varied 
reasons  in  the  Channel  Islands,  and  are  even  immediately  sprung 
from  seeds  of  plants  growing  in  the  damp  and  sunless  season  of  1869, 
which  plants  were  prostrated  to  the  earth  when  at  their  fullest  and 
most  critical  season  of  growth,  on  Sept.  12th,  under  the  weight  of  a 


S8  THE   FLOKAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

hurricane  of  55  lb.  pressure  per  square  foot.  The  perfectly  ripened 
specimens  exhibited  attest  the  vitality  of  Maize  when  treated  with 
common  care.     A  few  observations  must  now  be  made  on  the 

Uses  of  Maize. — It  would  be  without  interest  here  to  speak  of 
the  numerous  purposes  to  which  this  most  valuable  plant  is  put 
when  in  a  dried  state,  in  tropical  regions.  The  drought  of  past 
seasons  shows  the  need  of  adding  to  our  resources,  if  possible,  what- 
ever green  fodder  can  be  grown.  There  are  certain  kinds  of  Maize 
better  adapted  by  their  growth  than  others  to  fulfil  this  object,  being 
hardy  and  rapid  in  increase,  and  at  the  same  time  abounding  in  sac- 
charine juices,  which  animals  will  devour  greedily.  Even  the  stalks 
when  hard  can  be  utilized  by  slicing  them,  so  that  there  is  really  no 
waste.  Mention  having  been  made  of  these  varieties  in  the  French 
scientific  journals,  a  pressing  request  was  sent  here  for  a  large  quan- 
tity of  seed  for  Brittany,  there  to  be  cut  down  and  used  as  forage 
during  the  drought. 

Cultuee. — The  seeds  should  be  sown  in  common  raisin-boxes 
during  April — early  in  the  month  in  the  south,  and  later  in  the  north 
of  Eugland.  In  the  Channel  Islands  they  were  sown  in  boxes  very 
early  in  April,  and  planted  out  three  weeks  after.  These  boxes 
should  be  placed  in  a  cool  vinery,  orchard-house,  or  pit,  and  the 
plants  hardened  off  before  planting.  This  would  be  best  in  May, 
earlier  or  later  according  to  the  season  or  locality,  which  a  short 
experience  would  decide.  The  risk  of  the  young  plants  is  common 
to  other  vegetables — that  of  suffering  from  spring  frosts ;  a  little 
protection  would  obviate  all  this.  But  this  season  Mr.  Dancer,  of 
Cbiswick,  we  are  told,  sowed  a  quantity  of  Maize  in  the  open  ground 
in  March.  It  was  cut  down  by  the  frost,  sprang  up  again  from  the 
root,  and  yielded  a  heavy  crop. 

By  the  end  of  July  our  Maize  plants  were  already  seven  feet  high, 
and  were  then  secured  from  high  winds  by  stout  stakes  at  intervals, 
and  thin  cords  stretched  between  them,  to  which  the  rows  were  easily 
tied.  Not  being  able  to  give  waterings,  which  materially  aid  the 
growth  of  a  plant  which  luxuriates  in  the  rich  alluvial  valleys  of 
tropical  countries,  we  had  planted  in  shallow  trenches  filled  with 
manure,  and  three  inches  of  soil  above  it.  These  trenches  retained 
the  casual  showers,  and  were  gradually  earthed  in.  As  for  celery, 
the  manure  kept  the  roots  perfectly  fresh,  and  two  slight  waterings 
of  liquid  manure  were  given  during  the  very  dry  summer.  This 
attention  is  not  greater  than  is  always  given  to  peas  and  other 
vegetables.  Failures  are  traceable  to  a  neglect  either  of  some,  or 
even  of  all,  of  these  means. 

It  is  not  quite  so  easy  to  ascertain  the  exact  time  to  take  the  ears 
as  "green  corn"  for  the  table.  A  day  or  two  makes  considerable 
change  in  their  consistency.  When  as  large  and  as  hard  as  Marrow- 
1  it  peas,  from  twenty  to  thirty  minutes'  boiling  is  enough.  Serve 
with  fresh  butter  to  spread  over  them,  and  they  are  thus  ready.  All 
the  uses  made  of  peas  for  soups  and  stews  are  common  to  green 
Maize.  The  ears  can  also  be  roasted  before  the  fire.  When  dry, 
these  fine  white  varieties  would  produce  good  flour  for  pastry,  etc. 

Maize,  in  our  climate,  requires  five  months  to  mature  the  seeds 


THE   FLORAL   WORLD    AND   GARDEN   GUIDE.  89 

for  sowing,  being  one  month  more  than  in  California.  Some  sorts 
ripened  here  in  August.  The  stalks  reached  to  ten  feet,  a  height 
only  excelled  in  rich  tropical  soils.  Where  several  sprang  from  the 
same  root,  the  ears  ripened  soonest.  Experiments  were  made  in 
hybridizing,  with  some  results,  and  also  in  mutilating  the  male 
panicle  of  flowers,  with  a  view  to  increase  the  size  of  the  ear.  After 
several  generations  of  mutilated  plants  had  been  experimented  upon, 
it  was  found  that  the  ears  were  increased  sensibly  in  size.  The  pro- 
duce of  seed  was  at  the  rate  of  ninety-five  bushels  the  acre,  gathered 
as  it  was,  not  from  selected  plants,  but  from  numerous  varieties, 
some  being  too  small. 

Kemarks  on  the  Varieties. — The  pure  white  Maize  from 
Georgia  is  the  most  delicate  for  table  use ;  it  ripened  this  season 
at  the  end  of  September,  and  is  an  early  sort,  and  the  most  valuable 
in  every  respect.  The  Improved  Common  Yellow  and  the  Giant 
Ked  are  also  good.  It  remains  only  to  add  that  seed  for  sowing  can 
be  obtained  in  gardens  in  warmer  districts,  and  always  from  such 
places  as  the  Channel  Islands  ;  while  Maize,  to  be  eaten  green  in  the 
autumn,  can  be  grown  anywhere  with  common  attention.  The  same 
may  be  said  of  its  use  for  foliage. 


HOME- GEO VN  LILT  OF  THE  YALLEY. 

BY    A    MARKET    GROWER. 

jfLTHOUGH  the  Lily  of  the  Valley  is  a  favourite  amongst 
all  classes,  and  has  been  cultivated  both  in  pots  and 
in  the  open  ground  from  time  almost  immemorial,  it 
appears  that  its  culture,  speaking  in  a  general  manner, 
is  not  well  understood.  Even  at  public  exhibitions  it 
is  seldom  that  more  than  sixty  per  cent,  of  the  plants  are  shown  in 
a  satisfactory  condition.  They  are  either  all  flowers  or  all  foliage, 
instead  of  having  equal  proportions  of  both.  The  causes  of  these 
defects  are  not  far  to  seek,  and  can  be  easily  explained.  The 
deficiency  of  foliage  is  due  to  their  having  no  new  roots,  and  to 
forcing  them  in  too  much  heat,  and  the  deficiency  of  flowers  is  due 
to  the  bulbs  being  immature.  It  is  not,  however,  my  intention  to 
say  much  about  their  management  in  pots,  as  I  am  anxious  to  deal 
more  especially  with  their  cultivation  prior  to  their  being  potted  up 
for  forcing.  The  reason  for  my  being  desirous  of  directing  especial 
attention  to  this  part  of  the  subject  is  to  show  that  we  are  not  only 
independent  of  the  Dutch  growers  for  the  bulbs,  but  that  more 
satisfactory  results  can  be  obtained  from  those  grown  in  the  culti- 
vator's garden,  because  they  can  then  be  potted  at  the  right  moment. 
As  a  large  grower  for  Covent  Garden,  I  find  it  more  profitable  to 
grow  my  own  bulbs,  although  the  rent  paid  for  the  ground  is  simply 
t  normous.  Surely,  then,  those  who  have  a  garden  attached  to  their 
residence  would  find  it  more  economical  to  grow  their  own  bulbs, 
because,  excepting  a  few  shillings  for  manure,  they  cost  practically 


90  THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

nothing.  Even  supposing  the  cost  in  each  case  to  be  the  same,  the 
balance  would  be  in  favour  of  those  grown  at  home,  because  after 
the  foliage  has  died  down  they  do  not  make  any  roots  until  they 
are  in  bloom  and  the  leaves  full  grown.  Hence  the  leaves  and 
flowers  have  to  be  produced  entirely  with  the  aid  of  the  nourish- 
ment laid  up  in  the  bulbs  the  previous  season,  and  if  they  are 
pushed  along  too  fast,  especially  those  started  early,  they  produce 
flowers  but  no  foliage.  It  is  very  easy  to  maintain  a  regular  supply 
of  strong  bulbs  for  forcing  if  a  batch  is  planted  every  season. 

The  situation  selected  for  the  beds  should  be  moderately  open 
and  cool ;  but  they  are  by  no  means  particular,  provided  they  are 
not  planted  in  a  south  or  north  border,  for  the  first  is  too  hot  and 
the  second  too  cold.  The  ground  set  apart  for  their  culture  should 
be  determined  upon  at  once,  and  liberally  nourished  with  equal  parts 
of  leaf-mould  and  partly-decayed  stable  manure.  The  dressing  of 
manure  should  not  be  less  than  sis  inches  in  thickness.  Then 
trench  or  dig  the  bed  to  a  depth  of  about  eighteen  or  twenty-four 
inches,  and  regularly  incorporate  the  manure  with  the  soil,  and 
leave  the  surface  as  rough  as  it  is  possible  to  leave  it.  This 
work  should  be  done  early  in  the  autumn  where  the  soil  is 
rather  heavy.  It  is  too  late  to  talk  about  autumn  trenching 
now,  but  it  is  necessary  to  say  that  in  stirring  soil  deep  in  the 
spring,  the  bottom  spit  must  not  be  brought  to  the  surface. 
Presently,  when  the  plants,  now  in  the  conservatory,  go  out  of 
flower,  place  them  in  cold  frame  and  gradually  harden  oft",  but  do 
not  expose  to  frost ;  and  in  the  next  paragraph  we  will  consider 
what  must  be  done  with  them. 

About  the  middle  of  May  dig  the  bed  lightly  with  a  fork,  and  if 
the  leaf-mould  can  be  spared  spread  a  moderate  layer  over  the  sur- 
face previously,  to  assist  them  to  become  established  quickly.  When 
the  bed  is  quite  ready,  turn  them  out  of  the  pots,  divide  carefully, 
and  plant  the  crowns  either  singly  or  in  small  tufts  according  as 
they  can  be  divided  without  breaking  them  about.  The  rows  should 
be  fifteen  inches  apart,  and  the  crowns  twelve  inches  apart  in  the 
rows.  Water  liberally,  and  then  cover  the  surface  of  the  bed  with 
short  grass,  partly-decayed  leaves,  or  manure,  or  whatever  loose 
material  can  be  spared  for  the  purpose.  A  thorough  soaking  of 
water  once  a  week  for  the  first  four  weeks,  if  the  weather  happens 
to  be  dry,  will  be  of  immense  service,  but  afterwards  they  will  be 
able  to  take  care  of  themselves.  They  must  be  allowed  to  remain 
in  the  bed  until  July  of  the  second  year  after  they  are  planted ;  but 
by  planting  a  batch  every  year,  a  regular  succession  can  be  main- 
tained after  the  first  lot.  Some  growers  recommend  planting  the 
crowns  in  clumps  of  five  each,  but  it  is  certainly  not  a  good  plan, 
for  with  the  same  care  and  attention  I  could  never  obtain  such 
finely-developed  crowns  as  I  can  when  they  are  planted  singly. 

In  July  of  the  second  year  after  planting,  prepare  a  proper 
number  of  six  or  eight-inch  pots  by  crocking  them  carefully,  and 
sufficient  compost  by  mixing  together  three  parts  mellow  turfy 
loam,  and  a  part  each  of  old  hot-bed  manure  and  leaf-mould,  and  the 
first  dull  moist  day  after  the  middle  of  the  mouth  lift  them  carefully 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND   GARDEN    GUIDE.  91 

and  pot  as  quickly  as  possible.  Eemove  the  weakest  bulbs  tbat  are 
not  likely  to  flower  from  eaoh  clump,  and  then  put  the  latter  rather 
closely  together  round  the  outside  of  the  pots,  as  they  do  much  bet- 
ter than  when  put  in  the  centre.  The  number  of  clumps  in  each 
pot  must  be  regulated  by  their  size,  but  generally  speaking  four  for 
the  smaller  and  six  for  the  larger  size  will  be  quite  sufficient.  When 
the  potting  is  completed,  place  them  in  a  shady  position,  water 
liberally  to  settle  the  soil,  and  ^then  sprinkle  the  foliage  slightly  once 
a-day  to  assist  them  in  becoming  established  at  once.  They  should 
be  kept  in  the  shade  until  the  roots  have  taken  possession  of  the 
new  soil,  which  can  be  readily  ascertained  by  turning  one  of  them 
out  of  the  pot  in  a  careful  manner,  and  then  they  should  be  removed 
to  a  position  where  they  will  have  full  exposure  to  the  heat  of  the 
sun. 

The  stock  potted  in  the  summer  as  advised  above  will  fill  the 
pots  with  fine  healthy  roots  before  the  foliage  has  died  down,  and  be 
in  grand  condition  for  forcing  early.  On  the  other  hand,  those 
potted  after  the  leaves  have  perished  will  not  make  a  single  root 
until  they  have  flowered,  and  they  will  have  to  rely  exclusively  for 
sustenance  on  the  food  laid  up  in  the  bulbs  previous  to  their  being 
taken  from  the  open  ground.  The  only  matter  to  which  special 
importance  is  attached  in  connection  with  summer  potting  is  to  put 
them  into  the  pots  immediately  they  are  taken  up,  and  to  keep  them  in 
the  shade  with  occasional  sprinklings  overhead,  until  established. 
The  offsets  should  be  planted  for  stock  in  preference  to  putting  out 
plants  that  have  been  forced.  They  must  of  course  be  planted 
without  delay,  and  well  watered  occasionally,  and  for  the  first  week 
or  so  they  should  be  shaded  by  means  of  a  mat  placed  over  them 
during  the  day,  or  a  few  branches  of  evergreens,  or  spruce  fir, 
fixed  permanently  in  the  ground  so  as  to  screen  from  the  sunshine, 
and  they  may  be  allowed  to  remain  until  the  end  of  August.  By 
following  the  directions  here  laid  down,  the  most  inexperienced 
amateur  may  make  himself  entirely  independent  of  the  Dutch 
grower,  and  have  a  profusion  of  those  beautiful  flowers  throughout 
the  winter  and  spring. 


London  Gardeners  in  the  Olden  Time. — The  following  may  be  interesting, 
as  illustrative  of  the  manners  of  the  gardeners  in  the  olden  time.  In  1345  (19 
Edw.  HI.)  **  the  gardeners  of  the  earls,  barons,  and  bishops,  and  of  the  citizens  of 
the  City  of  London,"  petitioned  the  Mayor,  John  Hammond,  that  they  might 
"  stand  in  peace  in  the  same  place  where  they  had  been  wont  in  times  of  old,  in 
front  of  the  church  of  St.  Austin,  at  the  site  of  the  gate  of  St.  Paul's  Churchyard, 
there  to  sell  the  garden  produce  of  their  said  masters,  and  make  their  profit.  But 
the  Mayor,  finding  that  "  the  scurrility,  clamour,  and  nuisance  of  these  traders 
and  their  servants  there  selling  pods,  Cherries,  vegetables,  and  other  wares  to  their 
trade  pertaining,  daily  disturbed  "  the  priests  in  the  church  of  St.  Austin,  well  as 
the  reputable  inhabitants,  ordered  that  henceforth  the  gardeners  "  should  have 
as  their  place  the  space  between  the  south  gate  of  the  churchyard  of  the  said 
church  and  the  garden  wall  of  the  Friars  Preachers  (Black  Friars)  at  Baynard's 
Castle." —  City  Press. 


92  THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 


SWEET  PEAS. 


WEET  Peas  are  so  ornamental  and  effective  in  appear- 
ance when  in  bloom,  and  yield  such  a  profusion  of 
blossoms  for  furnishing  vases,  etc.,  during  the  summer 
months,  that  they  cannot  well  be  grown  too  exten- 
sively. We  are  fond  of  having  vases  of  cut  flowers  in 
all  the  principal  rooms  when  we  can  obtain  the  flowers,  and  we 
certainly  find  the  sweet  peas  our  very  best  friends  during  the  prin- 
cipal part  of  the  season.  In  reality  they  require  no  skill  to  grow 
them  well,  yet  many  amateurs  fail  in  cultivating  them  satisfactorily. 
They  are  generally  treated  as  half-hardy  annuals,  and  are  conse- 
quently short-lived,  and  do  not  continue  in  bloom  so  long  as  they 
otherwise  would  do.  For  many  years  we  used  to  raise  them  in 
pots  in  heat  and  plant  them  out  when  about  six  inches  in  height ; 
but  at  last  the  demand  upon  our  frames  became  so  great  that  we 
determined  to  sow  the  seed  out  of  doors  and  let  them  take  care  of 
themselves.  We  were  at  first  afraid  that  the  spring  frosts  would 
injure  them,  but  of  course  our  fears  were  groundless,  because  they 
are  quite  as  hardy  as  the  hardiest  of  the  peas  grown  for  culinary 
purposes.  We  now  make  two  sowings,  one  in  November  for 
flowering  early,  and  the  other  in  March  to  succeed  them.  Where, 
from  the  unfavourable  character  of  the  soil,  it  is  not  considered 
desirable  to  sow  peas  of  any  kind  in  the  autumn,  the  first  sowing 
may  be  made  the  first  week  in  February,  or  as  soon  afterwards  as 
the  weather  and  the  state  of  the  soil  will  permit. 

There  is  another  point  in  their  culture  worthy  of  mention,  and 
that  is,  to  insure  a  continuous  supply  of  flowers  during  the  longest 
period  possible,  they  must  be  grown  in  comparatively  rich  soil.  We 
usually  have  a  few  clumps  down  the  middle  of  a  mixed  border,  at  a 
distance  of  about  ten  feet  apart,  and  a  long  row  in  the  kitchen- 
garden  expressly  to  cut  from.  We  have  entirely  given  up  planting 
them  in  the  narrow  borders  in  front  of  the  shrubberies,  because  the 
roots  of  the  shrubs  draw  so  much  of  the  moisture  and  goodness  out 
of  the  soil,  that  after  a  week  or  two  of  dry  and  hot  summer  weather 
the  leaves  begin  to  turn  yellow  and  the  flowers  to  cease  to  make  their 
appearance.  In  many  gardens  the  shrubbery  border  is  selected  for 
growing  a  few  sweet  peas,  and  consequently  they  are  considered  to 
be  short-lived.  The  soil  cannot  be  too  rich,  and  we  sow  those  in  the 
kitchen-garden  in  trenches  prepared  in  much  the  same  manner  as 
for  celery.  We  first  have  thrown  out  the  top  spit  on  one  side  of 
the  trench,  and  the  man  then  breaks  up  the  soil  underneath  to  a 
depth  of  not  less  than  eighteen  inches,  mixing  with  it  as  he  proceeds 
not  less  than  six  inches  of  manure.  When  that  part  of  the  work  is 
completed,  the  soil  thrown  out  of  the  trench  is  returned  to  it, 
when  the  peas  are  to  be  sown  in  the  autumn  ;  but  for  those  sown  in 
the  spring  a  portion  only  is  returned,  so  that  the  surface  of  the  soil 
where  they  are  sown  shall  be  two  or  three  inches  below  the  general 
level.  When  sown  in  a  shallow  trench  they  can  be  watered  very 
easily,  and  the  roots  are  not  so  soon  affected  by  dry  or  hot  weather. 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  93 

A  layer  of  short  grass  or  other  vegetable  refuse  may  be  placed  on 
each  side  of  the  rows,  to  keep  the  soil  cool,  and  cheek  the  rapid 
evaporation  of  moisture  which  usually  occurs  in  hot  weather. 

A  small  portion  at  one  eud  of  the  row,  or  a  single  clump  in  the 
mixed  border,  should  be  set  apart  for  furnishing  a  supply  of  seed 
for  the  following  season,  and  the  seed-pods  regularly  removed  from 
all  the  others,  because  nothing  puts  a  stops  to  the  growth  and  the 
supply  of  flowers  so  quickly  as  allowing  the  pods  to  remain.  It 
shortens  their  flowering  season  at  least  six  week  or  two  months. 

The  sorts  grown  are,  Invincible  Black,  Invincible  Scarlet,  Painted 
Lady,  and  the  Common  White.  Upon  a  trellis,  in  a  rather  secluded 
part  of  our  garden,  we  have  The  Everlasting  Pea,  Latliyrus  latifolius, 
and  L.  latifolius  albus,  which  also  flowers  very  freely.  They 
occasion  us  hardly  any  labour  to  keep  them  in  order.  In  fact,  the 
only  attention  they  receive  is,  thinning  the  young  growth  out  a 
little,  removing  the  seed-pods,  and  cutting  them  down  in  the 
autumn.  In  return  for  a  little  labour  they  spring  up  every  season, 
and  present  us  with  flowers  of  surpassing  beauty  for  a  lengthened 
period  during  the  summer.  Harriet  Tetterell. 


THE   GAEDEN   GUIDE   EOE   MAECH. 

Elower  Garden. — The  planting  of  trees  and  shrubs  must  be 
finished  off  at  once.  Clear  out  shrubberies  by  cutting  away  the 
dead  wood,  and  raking  up  the  leaves.  Herbaceous  plants  ought  to 
have  attention  this  month  ;  the  borders  should  have  a  slight  dressing 
of  thoroughly  decayed  manure,  and  be  carefully  pricked  over  with  a 
fork.  Plants  required  to  be  increased  may  now  be  taken  up  and 
divided,  and  replanted  ;  where  they  are  growing  wild  it  is  a  good 
plan  to  take  the  whole  lot  up,  manure  and  trench  the  border,  and 
re-arrange  them.  These  plauts  should  have  annual  attention,  and 
not  be  allowed  to  smother  each  other,  as  is  generally  the  case.  Pinks, 
Picotees,  Carnations,  Pansies,  Hollyhocks,  Phlox,  and  Pentstemons, 
that  have  been  preserved  in  cold  frames  during  the  winter,  should 
be  planted  in  their  respective  quarters,  about  the  middle  or  end  of 
the  month,  if  the  ground  is  in  proper  condition  fur  their  reception. 

Kitchen  Garden. — This  is  the  most  important  season  in  the 
whole  year  in  this  department,  for  the  kitchen  supplies  are  ruled 
throughout  the  whole  year  by  the  way  the  operations  are  conducted 
now.  Continue  to  turn  up  every  quarter  directly  it  becomes  vacant. 
In  light  warm  soils  get  in  the  main  crops  of  Potatoes  towards  the 
end  of  the  month.  In  cold  damp  soils,  the  middle  of  next  month 
will  be  preferable.  Sow  and  make  new  beds  of  Asparagus.  Sow 
for  main  crops  Borecole,  Brussels  Sprouts,  Cabbage,  Cardoons, 
Carrots,  Cauliflowers,  Chervil,  Leeks,  Lettuce,  Onions,  Parsley, 
Parsnips,  Peas,  Eadishes,  Savoys,  Scorzonera,  Spinach,  and  Turnips. 
Plant  Globe  and  Jerusalem  Artichokes ;  clear  the  former  of  dead 
leaves  and  protecting  material.  Make  fresh  plantations  of  Horse- 
radish, Ehubarb,  and  Shallots,  if  not  already  done. 


94  THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

Fruit  Garden. — Pruning  and  training  must  be  completed,  and 
grafting  set  about  in  earnest.  "Wall-trees  coming  into  bloom  must 
be  protected.  Nets,  tiffany,  or  fir  branches  can  be  used  for  pro- 
tecting purposes  ;  the  first  two  are  the  best. 

Conservatory. — This  is  a  trying  time  to  the  occupants  of  this 
structure,  as  the  outbursts  of  bright  sunshine  are  so  generally  accom- 
panied with  cold,  keen,  drying  winds,  that  it  is  impossible  to  venti- 
late freely  enough  to  keep  the  temperature  to  its  proper  height. 
Shading  must  be  resorted  to,  or  the  plants  in  flower  will  soon  lose 
their  freshness  and  beauty.  Air,  however,  must  be  freely  admitted 
when  the  weather  will  admit  of  its  being  done,  as  nearly  the  whole 
of  the  hard-wooded  plants  will  now  be  making  their  growth,  and 
unless  they  have  plenty  of  air  the  young  wood  will  want  that  firm- 
ness which  is  so  essential  to  an  abundance  of  bloom.  Camellias 
growing  out  of  shape  should  be  pruned  and  placed  in  a  nice  genial 
growing  atmosphere,  and  well  syringed  with  tepid  water,  to  induce 
them  to  break  well.  Pelargoniums  of  all  kinds  that  need  a  shift 
must  have  it  at  once,  or  not  at  all;  plants  that  have  filled  the  pots 
with  roots  will  be  benefited  by  alternate  waterings  of  weak  manure 
water.  Primulas  and  Cyclamens  going  out  of  flower  must  be  placed 
in  a  light  airy  place  to  ripen  their  seed,  if  it  is  intended  to  save  any. 
Shift  all  plants  that  need  it  as  fast  as  they  go  out  of  flower.  Plants 
coming  from  the  frames  should  have  a  smoking  before  they  are 
brought  into  the  greenhouse,  as  there  are  many  plants  now  in  bloom, 
and  flowers  of  all  kinds  receive  considerable  injury  from  smoke. 

Stove. — Shading  must  now  be  resorted  to  during  bright  flashes 
of  sunshine,  as  it  is  impossible  to  give  sufficient  air  to  keep  the  tem- 
perature down  to  its  proper  level  without  injuring  the  plan's.  To 
maintain  a  moist  growing  atmosphere,  sprinkle  the  paths  and  walls 
twice  a-day,  and  give  the  plants  a  good  syringing  overhead  once, 
with  the  exception  of  those  in  flower,  which  must  be  kept  dry. 

Forcing. — Air-giving  must  be  attended  to  with  care  during  the 
whole  of  this  month,  in  all  tbe  departments.  Vines  in  flower  must 
have  rather  a  drier  atmosphere,  but  not  so  parching  as  is  generally 
advised.  Disbud,  train,  and  thin  out  the  bunches  as  required.  After 
the  fruit  is  set,  keep  a  thoroughly  moist  atmosphere,  and  paint  the 
pipes  with  sulphur  to  prevent  red  spider  making  its  appearance. 
Slightly  increase  the  temperature,  and  stop  one  or  two  eyes  beyond 
the  bunch.  Peaches  and  Nectarines,  as  they  go  out  of  bloom,  must 
be  well  syringed  to  clear  them  of  the  dead  flowers  ;  also  raise  the 
temperature  to  50\  Plums  and  Cherries  will  require  plenty  of  air, 
and  moisture  at  the  root.  Strawberries  as  they  begin  to  colour 
should  have  less  water,  and  be  exposed  more  freely  to  tbe  light  and 
air.     Sow  Melon  seed,  and  plant  out  as  soon  as  strong  enough. 

Pits  and  Frames. — Auriculas,  Pansies,  Carnations,  and  others 
of  the  same  class,  must  have  plenty  of  air.  Propagate  Verbenas, 
Lobelias,  Iresene,  Heliotropes,  and  Petunias.  Bedding  Calceolarias 
should  be  turned  out  into  a  bed  of  rich  soil,  about  four  inches  apart, 
and  covered  with  old  light  straw  hurdles,  or  mats. 


THE    FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  05 


NOTICES  TO  CORRESPONDENTS. 

An  Old  Subscriber. — The  plants  mentioned  would  do  very  well,  and  would  cost 
from  six  to  nine  shillings  per  dozen,  according  to  the  sorts.  Tliey  should  be 
planted  as  quickly  as  possible.     The  answer  to  the  second  question  is  No. 

JE.  O.  H. — You  cannot  do  anything  to  prevent  the  occurrence  referred  to. 
The  cause  of  the  flowers  not  expanding  is  entirely  due  to  the  roots  not  being  in 
a  healthy  condition.  In  thinning  the  buds,  leave  the  most  prominent,  and  remove 
the  others. 

Night-scented  Stock. — IE.  T.  O.,  M.D.,  Orosvenor  Square. — Seed  of  the  two 
species  mentioned  by  our  correspondent  is  offered  in  the  catalogues  of  Mr.  B.  8. 
Williams,  Upper  Holloway,  Messrs.  Barr  and  Sugden,  12,  King  Street,  Covent 
Garden,  and  several  other  metropolitan  firms,  therefore  you  ought  not  to  experience 
any  difficulty  in  obtaining  a  supply. 

Veronica  Candida. — John  Cooper,  Dresden,  Staffordshire. — Seed  is  offered  by 
Mr.  J.  J.  Marriott,  Highfield  Nm-series,  Matlock,  and  it  can,  we  believe,  he  obtained 
of  a  few  other  nurserymen.  Plants  are  plentiful  in  all  good  nurseries.  Seed  of 
the  other  subjects  named  cannot,  so  far  as  we  are  aware,  be  purchased,  but  plants 
can  be  obtained  at  a  very  low  rate.  The  Veronica  you  mention  is  a  different  thing 
altogether. 

F.  K. — Many  thanks  for  your  communication.  We  regret  not  having  room  for 
it  this  month.  The  following  are  four  of  the  most  suitable  climbers  for  the  position 
mentioned  : — Tacsonia  Van  Volxemi,  Passiflora  Imperatrice  Eugenie,  Cobea  scandeus 
variegata,  and  Kennedya  coccinea,  or  Hoya  carnosa. 

Early  Forcing. — S.  S. — In  proportion  to  the  heat  should  be  the  amount  of 
moisture,  as  also  the  circulation  of  air.  We  infer  from  your  statement  that  the 
atmospheric  moisture  is  much  deficient.  Is  there,  however,  any  source  of  bottom- 
heat  which  produces  atmospheric  moisture  ?  Roses,  and,  in  fact,  most  shrubs 
emerging  from  a  state  of  partial  torpidity  or  rest,  are  very  averse  to  what  is  termed 
dry  heat.  Our  advice  is  to  use  as  much  atmospheric  moisture  in  the  afternoon,  in 
combination  with  a  circulation  of  air,  as  will  deposit  dew  on  the  leaves.  A  much 
less  amount  may  be  used  from  daylight  until  noon.  Plunge  gesnerias  in  bottom- 
heat,  and  treat  them  as  achimenes.  Use  a  little  water,  increasing  it  with  increased 
vigour.  Your  temperature  is  rather  too  low  ;  if  sunshine  occurs,  run  the  glass  up 
to  75°  or  even  80°,  provided  there  is  a  little  motion  in  the  air.  A  cold  greenhouse 
will  suffice  for  camellias. 

Chrysanthemums. — B.  J. — Cuttings  are  made  from  January  to  April,  and  for 
some  purposes  as  late  as  June  or  July.  Those  made  in  February  and  March  usually 
produce  the  finest  plants,  and  of  necessity  they  are  then  struck  in  heat,  which  must 
be  moderate,  and  the  cuttings  must  be  in  full  daylight.  In  stopping,  the  point  of 
the  shoot  is  pinched  out  with  the  fingers  ;  but  if  a  shoot  takes  the  lead  and  goes 
ahead  of  all  the  rest,  it  may  be  cut  back  two  or  three  or  more  joints,  and  made  a 
cutting  of. 

Primula  Seed. —  W.  S. — It  is  time  now  to  sow  the  first  pinch  of  seed.  The 
surest  way  to  proceed  is  to  nearly  fill  the  pans  with  manure  that  has  been  two  years 
rotted  and  then  sifted.  Sprinkle  the  seed  upon  the  surface,  and  do  not  cover  the 
s^ed  with  soil,  but  lay  over  the  pan  a  sheet  of  glass  smeared  with  clay  to  render  it 
nearly  opaque.  If  the  soil  becomes  dry  before  the  seed  sprouts,  put  the  pans  in  a 
vessel  containing  one  or  two  inches  depth  of  water  till  the  soil  is  quite  moistened.  A 
warm  house  or  hot-bed  is  the  proper  place  for  the  seed-pans.  As  soon  as  the  plants 
appear,  remove  the  glass,  and  soon  as  possible  pot  them  off  separately. 

Artillery  Plant.— Miss  Mary. — The  plant  is  Pilea  allitrichoides,  or  Pistol 
plant.  It  is  a  native  of  the  West  Indies,  and  a  very  elegant  and  interesting  subject 
for  stove  and  greenhouse  culture.  We  have  frequently  used  it  to  furnish  indoor 
cases,  for  which  purpose  it  must  be  grown  to  a  good  size  in  pots,  and  be  plunged  in 
the  place  it  is  to  occupy,  and  it  will  continue  to  grow  and  bloom  from  May  to 
October  in  the  temperature  of  a  dwelling-room.  The  minute,  fern-like  leaves  and 
reddish  pins' -head  sort  of  blossoms,  fit  it  well  for  association  with  fine-leaved  plants. 
It  is  named  the  Artillery  or  Pistol  plant,  because,  when  sprinkled  with  water  on  a 
hot,  sunny  day,  the  flowers  emit  little  puffs  of  pollen  like  discharges  of  smoke  from 
fire-arms. 


96  THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND   GARDEN    GUIDE. 

Salsafy. — B.  W.  B. — This  excellent  root  is  not  sufficiently  appreciated,  or  It 
would  be  much  more  commonly  grown.  Any  ordinary  good  sandy  loam  will  suit 
it,  if  deeply  dug  some  time  ago,  and  laid  up  in  ridges  to  the  frost.  In  the  event  of 
having  to  prepare  ground  for  it  now,  trench  two  feet  deep,  and  put  manure  at  the 
bottom  of  the  trench.  Sow  in  April,  in  drills  fifteen  inches  apart;  when  the  plants 
are  up,  thin  to  six  inches  in  poor  soil,  and  to  nine  inches  in  rich  soil.  The  roots 
are  usually  taken  up  in  November,  and  stored  the  same  as  carrots  ;  but  some  culti- 
vators leave  a  few  in  the  ground  for  the  sake  of  the  shoots  they  produce  in  the 
spring,  and  which,  if  cooked  before  they  become  stringy,  are  by  many  highly 
esteemed.  To  convert  the  root  of  salsafy  into  vegetable  oyster,  it  must  first  be 
boiled  till  tender,  then  be  mashed  up  with  butter,  and  lastly  be  fried  a  nice  brown. 
It  is  then  said  to  resemble  oyster  patties.  It  is  certainly  a  very  tasty  dish,  without 
any  reference  to  its  imitation  of  oyster. 

Planting  a  Grove. — Sir  G.  8. — In  the  planting  of  a  grove,  a  great  variety 
of  trees  is  not  desirable ;  indeed,  we  should  consider  a  variety  fatal  to  the  one- 
ness of  effect,  which  is  the  best  and  principal  feature  of  a  grove.  One  kind 
should  predominate,  whether  oak,  beech,  alder,  or  what  else,  and  there  are  not 
many  kinds  of  trees  suited  for  forming  a  grove.  Regular  planting,  too,  should 
be  avoided.  A  grove  must  not  be  made  to  imitate  an  avenue,  nor  should  it  be 
a  coppice  or  a  thicket.  Over  some  spaces  the  trees  should  be  dotted  with  some 
degree  of  uniformity  ;  in  some  others  they  should  stand  far  apart,  to  allow  of 
open  spaces  between,  and  from  these  open  spaces  should  be  seen  some  bold 
rounded  groups,  well  defined,  differing  in  outline,  and  in  some  one  direction 
thickening  together  into  a  mass,  to  give  deep  shade  and  a  rich  wall  of  leafage. 
A  few  distinct  kinds  towering  up  above  the  general  mass  will  improve  the  sky- 
line, and  prevent  the  insipidity  that  results  from  tameness,  but  this  must  be 
sparingly  and  cautiously  done,  for  repetition  is  an  essential  feature  of  a  grove, 
which  it  is  impossible  to  plant  as  an  arboretum. 

Ivy  Edgings. — A  New  Subscriber. — The  tree-ivies  would  make  good  edgings  in 
time  in  skilful  hands,  but  the  trailing  kinds  are  best,  and  there  is  none  to  equal  the 
common  Irish  grandifs,  if  a  rich  effect  is  required  to  be  produced  quickly.  To  make 
one  of  these  edgings,  a  good  breadth  must  be  allowed,  the  ground  must  be  deeply 
duo-,  and  if  poor,  manure  must  be  added;  then  the  lines  should  be  pegged  out  for 
the  planting.  Whatever  sort  it  is  intended  to  use,  the  best  way  to  obtain  the 
plants  is  at  some  good  nursery,  where  usually  plants  three  or  four  years  old,  with 
long  rods,  may  be  found  in  pots.  These  carefully  turned  out,  and  pegged  down, 
make  a  good  edging  at  once.  They  may  be  a  yard  apart  if  the  edging  is  from  one  to 
two  feet  wide  ;  but  if  wider,  two  feet  apart  would  be  better,  because  a  thick  growth 
is  required,  which  necessitates  cutting  back  the  longest  shoots.  Any  of  the  strong- 
growing  green-leaved  varieties  of  the  English  ivies  may  be  used  to  advantage,  as 
they  make  fine  edgings.  Still  more  beautiful— in  fact,  remarkably  beautiful— are 
the  variegated  ivies.  In  preparing  the  ground  for  the  variegated  kinds,  do  not 
apply  any  manure  ;  they  are  more  beautiful  in  a  poor  than  a  rich  soil.  As  these  are 
slow  growers,  plant  them  a  foot  apart. 

House  Case. — J.  B.  G. — The  following  will  be  found  very  useful,  namely  : — 
Andromeda  flortbunda,  Aucuba  limbata,  A.  foemina  viridis,  Evergieen  Tree  Box, 
Ligustrum  japonicum,  Osmanthus  ilicifolius,  Pernettya  mncronata,  Raphiolepis, 
Skimmia  japonica,  S.  oblata  ovata,  Laurestinus.  For  the  back  plant  Hedera  helix 
minor,  and  H.  h.  digitata.  The  demands  upon  our  time  are  too  great  to  admit  of 
our  answering  correspondents  through  the  post. 

C.  H.,  Hath. — Cineraria  acanthifolia  would  be  a  giod  substitute,  but  the  seed  is 
rather  expensive  to  purchase  in  quantity.  C.  maritima  would  also  do,  and  the  seed 
is  cheaper.  If  a  golden  plant  would  be  admissible  we  should  recommend  Pyrethrum 
Golden  Feather,  because  of  its  effectiveness  and  the  ease  with  which  a  stock  can  be 
raised.  Ageratums  will  flower  the  same  year  if  sown  early,  as  also  will  Delphinium 
formosum.  The  Dianthuses  are  useful  for  bedding  purposes,  but  the  other  plants 
named  are  not.     Prune  the  Datura  at  once. 

Planting  Potatoes. — J.  W. — The  sooner  the  heavy  ground  is  dug  the  better  ; 
let  it  be  laid  up  ridge  and  trench  by  a  good  workman.  At  planting  time,  instead  of 
dibbing  in  the  sets,  lay  them  in  the  trenches  and  throw  the  soil  from  the  ridges  down 
upon  them.  This  plan  produces  a  well-pulverized  and  aerated  seed-bed.  Of  course 
the  trenches  should  be  as  far  apart,  or  half  as  far  apart,  as  the  rows  are  to  be. 


NEW     VERBENAS. 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE.  97 

ECKEORD'S  VERBENAS. 

( With  Coloured  Illustration  of  six  2feio  Varieti"s.) 

OR  several  years  past  Verbenas  have  not  enjoyed  a  large 
share  of  popularity  among  flower  gardeners,  yet  in  no 
other  period  has  the  advance  towards  perfection  in  the 
size,  colour,  and  form  of  the  flowers  been  so  great  as  it 
has  been  during  the  last  four  or  five  years.  This  im- 
provement is,  in  the  main,  due  to  the  labours  of  Mr.  C.  J.  Perry, 
Castle  Bromwich,  and  of  Mr.  H.  Eckford,  the  able  head  gardener  to 
the  Earl  of  Radnor,  Coleshill  House.  Notwithstanding  the  unpo- 
pularity of  this  flower,  these  two  earnest  cultivators  proceeded  with 
the  work  of  improvement,  but  in  different  ways.  Mr.  Perry  devoted 
his  energies  to  raising  varieties  with  flowers  of  the  finest  form  and 
colour,  without  reference  to  habit,  or  their  adaptability  for  flower 
garden  decoration.  Mr.  Eckford,  on  the  other  hand,  has  paid  especial 
attention  to  the  habit  and  constitution,  whilst,  at  the  same  time, 
labouring  hard  to  combine  with  a  good  constitution  and  habit,  flowers 
of  fine  form,  and  possessing  colours  that  are  not  easily  affected  by 
brilliant  sunshine  and  other  uncongenial  weather.  That  he  has  been 
eminently  successful  there  can  be  no  doubt,  for  many  of  the  varieties 
raised  by  him,  and  which  have  flowers  of  grand  form,  occupy  a  high 
position  amongst  the  best  of  the  bedders  yet  sent  out. 

As  Mr.  Eckford  has  contributed  a  short  paper  on  the  manage- 
ment of  Verbenas  for  flower-garden  decoration,  it  is  quite  unneces- 
sary to  allude  to  the  cultural  details  here,  but  we  are  bound  to  say 
that  the  views  expressed  by  Mr.  Eckford  with  reference  to  the  chief 
causes  of  failure  coincide  entirely  with  our  own  experience  ;  at  the 
same  time  we  are  anxious  to  say  that  with  a  liberal  course  of  manage- 
ment, L'uch  as  that  recommended  by  Mr.  Eckford,  failures  would  be 
remarkably  rare,  and  the  Verbena  would  once  more  occupy  the 
high  position  in  the  flower  garden  to  which  it  is  now  so  thoroughly 
entitled. 

The  varieties  here  figured  are  a  portion  of  a  batch  of  fine 
novelties,  selected  from  the  Coleshill  seed  bed,  that  are  to  be  sent 
out  by  Mr.  John  Keynes,  Castle  Street,  Salisbury,  on  the  first  of 
next  month.  "We  have  much  pleasure  in  figuring  these  varieties, 
because  of  their  high  excellence,  and  for  the  purpose  of  showing  the 
immense  improvement  that  has  been  effected  in  these  useful  flowers 
within  the  last  three  or  four  years.  The  names  and  colours  of  the 
varieties  here  figured  are  aa  follows : — 

1.  Peter  Williams.— Deep  scarlet ;  eye  pure  white,  large,  and 
circular ;  the  pips  large  in  size  and  of  good  form;  the  trusses  large 
and  bold.  One  of  the  showiest  and  most  valuable  of  the  group,  and 
likely  to  prove  a  first-rate  bedder. 

2.  Blue  Bell. — Well  deserving  of  its  name,  for  the  colour  is  of  a 
peculiarly  bright  rich  shade  of  cobalt  blue  ;  pips  large,  stout  in  sub- 
stance, very  smooth,  and  of  graud  form,  with  large  circular  white 
eye  ;  trusses  large,  globular,  and  well  proportioned.     A  very  beauti- 

VOL.  VI. — NO.   IT.  7 


98  THE   FLORAL   WORLD  AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 

ful  variety,  which  deserves  appreciation   as  much  for  its   distinct 
colouring  as  for  the  superb  form  and  finish  of  the  flowers. 

3.  Grand  Monarch. — Very  brilliant,  rich  deep  orange-scarlet ; 
centre  deep  crimson.  Although  there  are  many  good  scarlet- 
flowered  varieties,  this  is  a  most  valuable  acquisition,  because  of 
the  grand  form  and  perfect  finish  of  the  flowers,  in  addition  to  its 
many  other  good  qualities. 

4.  George  Peabody. — Clear  bright  plum  colour  ;  eye  pure  white ; 
pips  large  and  smooth,  and  of  the  finest  form ;  truss  large  and  bold  ; 
very  distinct  and  most  effective  in  appearance.  A  valuable  variety 
for  exhibition  purposes,  which  will  hold  a  high  place  amongst  Ver- 
benas many  years  hence. 

5.  Hose  Imperial. — Delicate  but  bright  rose-pink,  of  the  same 
hue  as  that  of  the  flowers  of  the  well-known  Christine  geranium  ; 
pip  and  truss  large,  smooth,  and  of  grand  form.  A  decided  acqui- 
sition, and  will,  there  can  be  no  doubt,  be  much  appreciated  by 
growers  of  this  class  of  flowers,  whether  for  culture  in  pots  for  the 
conservatory,  or  for  exhibition,  or  for  cut  flowers. 

6.  Mrs.  Dodds. — Tint  clear  bright  flesh,  of  a  peculiar  delicate 
hue ;  centre  rich  crimson ;  pips  and  truss  large,  and  of  the  finest 
form ;  a  most  distinct  and  beautiful  variety  for  all  purposes,  but 
more  especially  for  associating  with  those  of  a  darker  hue. 

The  other  varieties  to  be  sent  out  at  the  same  time  as  the  above 
are :  Miss  Charlotte  Mildmay,  clear  blush,  with  deep  pink  centre ; 
pips  very  large,  stout,  and  smooth,  and  well  arranged  in  the  truss. 
Mrs.  Knight,  pale  rose ;  pips  and  truss  large,  and  of  grand  form. 
Lavender  Queen,  bright  clear  lavender;  pips  large,  and  stout,  and 
smooth,  and  arranged  so  as  to  form  a  bold  striking  truss  ;  a  superb 
bedder. 

We  regret  very  much  that  our  artist,  usually  so  truthful,  has 
failed  in  reproducing  the  peculiar  rich  and  striking  colours  of  the 
varieties  here  figured,  for  in  every  case  the  colours  of  the  flowers 
are  far  superior  to  what  they  are  shown  in  the  plate.  The  plate 
must,  therefore,  be  taken  as  illustrative  of  the  grand  form  and 
superb  finish  of  the  flowers,  and  as  suggestive  of  the  colours.  The 
descriptions  are  taken  from  notes  made  when  the  flowers  came 
before  us  upon  several  occasions  during  the  summer  and  autumn  of 
last  year,  and,  therefore,  no  difficulty  with  respect  to  the  colours, 
will  be  experienced  by  intending  purchasers. 

Of  the  older  varieties  of  Mr.  Eckford's  raising,  the  under- 
mentioned can  be  recommended,  with  every  degree  of  confidence, 
namely :  Eclipse,  crimson  scarlet,  fine  bedder.  Harry  'Eclcford, 
deep  crimson,  white  eye.  Pearl,  fine  white.  Sensation,  deep  rose, 
with  lemon  eye,  surrounded  with  a  ring  of  crimson.  Ace  of  Trumps, 
rosy  salmon,  crimson  centre.  Conspicuous,  crimson,  with  white  eye. 
Mrs.  Stuart  Low,  pure  white,  grand  bedder.  Lofty  Eckford,  rich 
plum,  with  lemon  eye,  fine  and  distinct,  and  a  good  bedder. 
Bravo,  clear  delicate  rose.  Polly  Perh'ns,  cerise  suffused  with 
salmon,  fine  bedder.  Isa  Key,  rose  shaded  violet.  The  Cure,  rose 
purple,  with  crimson  centre.  Imperial  Purple,  the  best  of  all  the 
purple  varieties,  both  for  beddiug  and  pot  culture.     Coleshill,  bril- 


THE    FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  99 

liant  scarlet,  with  lemon  eye.  Fanny  Martin,  clear  rose.  Earl  of 
Radnor,  rosy  scarlet,  with  pale  lemon  eye.  The  above,  with  the 
new  varieties,  would  form  a  very  nice  collection  for  a  young  begin- 
ner, and  as  the  price  is  only  a  trifle  more  than  charged  for  the  com- 
monest sorts,  there  is  no  valid  reason  why  they  should  not  be  grown 
in  preference  to  varieties  that  are  now,  comparatively  speaking, 
worthless. 

With  respect  to  the  price  and  other  particulars  respecting  both 
the  new  and  old  varieties,  we  must  refer  our  readers  to  Mr.  Keynes. 


NOTES  ON  VERBENAS. 

BY    HENRY    ECKFOKD, 

Head  Gardener  to  the  Earl  of  Radnor,  Colesliill  House,  Coleshill,  Berks. 


HE  principal  reason  for  my  devoting  special  attention  to 
the  improvement  of  the  Verbena,  was  to  see  what  could 
be  done  in  raising  a  race  strong  enough  in  constitution 
to  carry  them  through  uncongenial  weather,  whilst  at 
the  same  time  possessing  flowers  of  a  large  size,  fine 
form,  and  rich  and  effective  in  colour  ;  but  how  far  my  efforts  have 
been  successful  it  is  not  for  me  to  say.  There  can,  however,  be  no 
harm  in  iny  stating,  that  from  the  first  my  aim  has  been  to  vindicate 
the  claims  of  this  flower  to  an  important  and  prominent  position 
in  the  flower  garden,  and  to  prove  that  with  proper  management, 
failures  would  be  exceptional  instead  of  being,  as  unfortunately 
they  are  at  present,  the  rule. 

The  causes  of  failures  of  verbenas  in  the  open  air  are  not  far  to 
seek,  and  can  be  easily  explained.  The  most  frequent  cause  is 
undoubtedly  putting  out  plants  that  have  been  starving  in  small 
pots  several  months  previous  to  the  planting  seasons.  It  is  a  most 
grievous  mistake  to  propagate  the  stock  for  bedding  early  in  the 
season,  although  it  is  generally  supposed  that  early  propagation  is 
necessary  to  secure  strong  healthy  plants  by  planting-time.  When 
struck  early,  and  necessarily  kept  starving  in  pots  for  several  months, 
the  constitution  becomes  impaired  so  much  that  they  are  unable  to 
resist,  with  any  degree  of  success,  the  attacks  of  red  spider,  thrips, 
and  mildew — three  most  formidable  enemies  they  have  to  contend 
with.  Erom  close  observation  extending  over  many  years,  I  am 
convinced  that  the  month  of  April  is  quite  early  enough  for  striking 
verbenas  intended  for  bedding  purposes.  The  tops  of  the  healthy 
shoots  should  be  taken  off  in  the  early  part  of  the  ensuing  month, 
struck  in  a  brisk  bottom-heat,  and  potted  into  store  pots,  and  care- 
fully hardened  off;  these  planted  out  as  early  in  May  as  the  weather 
will  permit,  will  grow  away  freely,  and  the  beds  in  which  they  are 
planted  will  soon  become  a  blaze  of  colour.  The  compost  in  which 
they  are  potted  should  be  rich  and  nourishing,  and  for  that  reason 
nothing  suits  them  better  thau   a  mixture  of  good  turfy  loam  and 


100  THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND   GARDEN   GUIDE. 

decayed  hot-bed  manure,  mixed  together,  at  the  rate  of  two  parts  ot 
the  former  to  one  of  the  latter,  and  a  sprinkling  of  sand  added  to 
keep  the  compost  open.  Plants  planted  in  a  compost  prepared  as 
here  directed  will  present  a  different  appearance  at  planting-time  to 
those  which,  according  to  a  general,  but  very  objectionable  custom, 
are  put  in  the  refuse  soil  from  the  potting  bench. 

Verbenas  are  not  at  all  particular  as  to  the  position  in  which 
they  are  planted,  provided  it  is  moderately  open.  If  there  is  any 
difference  in  the  positions  most  congenial  to  a  healthy  growth, 
preference  must  be  given  to  an  open  situation,  where  the  plants 
wrould  be  slightly  screened  from  the  rays  of  the  midday  sun.  We 
plant  here  in  all  situations  with  the  most  satisfactory  results,  and 
there  is  no  occasion  for  cultivators  to  trouble  themselves  much  about 
the  selection  of  the  most  favourable  situations. 

The  most  suitable  soil  is  a  rich  loam,  rather  inclined  to  be  heavy 
than  otherwise,  but  they  will  do  well  in  almost  all  soils,  however 
light,  if  they  are  liberally  enriched  with  manure  some  time  during 
the  winter  season.  In  very  light  soils  the  surface  of  the  beds  should 
be  mulched  during  the  summer  with  a  layer  of  half-rotten  stable  or 
other  manure,  to  keep  the  surface  comparatively  cool,  and  to  check 
excessive  evaporation  from  the  soil.  The  beds  should  also  have  a 
few  thorough  soakings  of  water  during  a  period  of  drought.  If  it 
is  intended  to  exhibit  cut  blooms,  the  plants  should  be  put  rather 
farther  apart  than  would  be  desirable  when  planted  for  ordinary 
bedding  purposes,  so  as  to  admit  of  their  being  covered  with  hand- 
glasses a  day  or  two  before  the  showr  day  if  necessary.  The  protec- 
tion is  merely  required  to  shelter  the  trusses  from  heavy  rains,  and 
also  to  screen  them  from  the  sun,  to  preserve  the  outside  pips  until 
those  in  the  centre  are  developed.  The  hand-glasses  must  of  course 
have  a  mat,  or  a  piece  of  canvas  thrown  over  them  during  the 
hottest  part  of  the  day ;  the  caps  must,  however,  be  elevated  suffi- 
ciently to  admit  of  a  free  circulation  of  air  at  all  times  about  the 
foliage.  The  trusses  must  also  be  secured  to  neat  sticks,  to  prevent 
the  wind  injuring  them. 


FUCHSIAS  EOE  THE  CONSEEVATOEY. 

BY    J.    JAMES, 
Head  Gardener,  Redlees,  Isleworth. 

fO  cultivate  Eucbsias  successfully,  they  must  be  pushed 
on  vigorously  when  once  started  into  growth  ;  therefore 
it  is  a  mistake  for  amateurs  and  other  growers  with 
limited  accommodation  for  plant-growing,  to  start  them 
into  growth  much  before  the  greenhouse  and  pits  are 
cleared  of  the  bedding  plants  with  which  they  have  been  occupied 
during  the  winter  months.  Euchsias  are  seldom  wanted  in  the  con- 
servatory before  quite  the  end  of  the  summer,  and  as  they  are  in  every 
way  better  if  grown  on  quickly  from  the  first,  the  ensuing  month  pre- 
sents a  very  favourable  moment  for  taking  them  in  hand  in  earnest. 


THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE.  101 

I  shall  not  say  much  about  striking  the  cuttings,  because  those 
who  have  not  the  command  of  a  hotbed  will  save  themselves  much 
trouble  and  anxiety  by  expending  a  few  shillings  in  the  purchase  of 
a  stock  of  young  plants  or  rooted  cuttings  from  those  who  grow 
fuchsias  extensively,  and  sell  them  at  a  cheap  rate.  Where  the 
conveniences  exist  for  striking  the  cuttings,  of  course  the  work  of 
propagating  the  stock  is  very  simple.  Select  short,  stubby,  and  firm 
shoots,  and  take  them  off  with  four  or  five  joints,  then  trim  oif  the 
two  lower  pair  of  leaves,  and  insert  the  cuttings  deep  enough  to 
admit  of  the  base  of  the  leaves  at  the  third  joint  to  rest  upon  the 
sand,  to  avoid  the  check  experienced  by  cuttings  where  several  are 
put  in  one  pot  and  divided.  When  rooted  put  them  singly  in  small 
pots,  as  they  can  then  be  shifted  into  larger  pots  without  iujury  to 
the  roots.  To  assist  the  quick  development  of  the  roots,  partly 
plunge  the  pots  in  the  hotbed,  and  if  placed  in  a  large  house  cover 
them  with  a  hand-glass  to  maintain  a  close  damp  atmosphere  about 
them,  but  when  in  a  frame  no  hand-glass  will  be  required.  Shade 
from  the  sun  and  sprinkle  overhead  when  necessary,  but  they  must 
not  be  kept  too  moist,  or  a  large  proportion  will  damp  off.  When 
rooted  expose  them  more  freely  to  the  light  and  air,  and  shift  into 
pots  two  sizes  larger,  as  soon  as  the  cutting  pots  are  nicely  filled  with 
roots.  It  will  be  necessary  to  keep  the  house  or  pit  rather  close  for 
a  few  days  after  they  are  repotted,  to  assist  them  in  becoming  esta- 
blished quickly.  Afterwards  more  air  and  light  will  be  required  to 
insure  a  short-jointed  and  firm  growth. 

In  dealing  with  old  plants  that  were  pruned  in  the  winter,  and 
are  now  starting  into  growth,  it  will  be  necessary  to  first  turn  them 
out  of  the  pots,  and  then  to  remove  the  greater  part,  if  not  all,  the 
old  soil  from  the  roots,  and  repot  them  in  a  fresh  compost  and 
in  clean  pots  not  larger  than  those  from  which  they  were  taken. 
They  may  still  be  pruned,  but  there  is  a  danger  of  the  strong-growing 
sorts  suffering  from  a  loss  of  sap  when  pruned  hard  thus  late  in  the 
season.  The  roots  of  specimens  two  or  three  years  old  may  be 
shortened  if  required,  but  with  few  exceptions  the  plants  from  cut- 
tings struck  last  year  should  be  potted  with  their  roots  intact. 
Prepare  the  pots  by  putting  a  rather  large  piece  of  crock  over  the 
hole,  then  a  layer  of  smaller  pieces  ;  and  to  keep  the  soil  in  its  place, 
put  a  layer  of  rough  turf  or  flaky  leaf-mould  over  them.  Upon  this 
put  a  handful  or  two  of  the  compost,  then  spread  out  the  roots 
regularly  over  it,  and  put  a  few  handfuls  of  the  finest  part  of  the 
compost  immediately  over  them,  and  strike  the  bottom  of  the  pot  on 
the  bench  to  shake  it  down  amongst  them.  Then  fill  in  with  the 
soil,  and  press  it  moderately  firm.  After  they  are  potted,  remove 
them  to  a  structure  where  they  can  be  kept  close  and  shaded. 
Syringing  them  lightly  twice  a  day  is  the  best  means  of  checking 
undue  evaporation  until  the  roots  are  established  in  the  new  soil, 
and  able  to  take  up  sufficient  moisture  for  the  support  of  the  plant. 
Afterwards  it  will  not  be  desirable  to  syringe  them  so  frequently,  as 
one  good  washing  will  be  decidedly  preferable  to  half-a-dozen  light 
sprinkles.  Air-giving,  shading,  and  watering  must  be  regulated  by 
the  weather,  but  it  may  be  stated  that  fuchsias,  when  growing  freely 


SPECIMEN    FLAMT    OF    FUCHSIA. 


THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  103 

require  no  more  air  than  is  really  necessary  to  insure  a  firm  growth 
and  maintain  a  pure  atmosphere.  With  respect  to  shading,  it  may 
be  stated  that  they  must  have  full  exposure  to  the  light  at  all  times, 
excepting  when  the  sun  is  shining  brightly,  and  then  the  foliage 
must  he  screened  from  its  influence  by  means  of  tiffany  or  canvas 
blinds.  It  is  impossible  to  lay  down  any  precise  rule  with  respect 
to  watering,  as  each  plant  will  differ  more  or  less  in  its  require- 
ments. They  must  be  supplied  with  sufficient  water,  and  no  more  ; 
that  is,  the  soil  must  not  be  allowed  to  become  dry,  or  be  kept 
in  a  state  of  saturation.  Healthy  specimens,  however,  will,  if  the 
drainage  is  perfect  and  the  pots  full  of  roots,  require  very  liberal 
supplies.  After  they  are  shifted  into  the  pots  in  which  they  are  to 
flower,  and  are  well  established,  water  alternately  with  weak  liquid 
manure.  Those  who  have  not  the  conveniences  for  making  liquid 
manure  from  horse  or  sheep's  droppings,  may  make  a  stimulating 
liquid  by  mixing  one  ounce  of  guano  and  a  five-inch  pot  full  of  soot, 
with  three  gallons  of  soft  water  a  sufficient  time  before  it  is  wanted, 
to  allow  of  its  becoming  clear  before  used.  A  thorough  wash  over- 
head occasionally  will  be  highly  beneficial,  but  the  best  means  of 
providing  them  with  a  proper  share  of  atmospheric  humidity  is  to 
sprinkle  the  stages  and  walls,  and  pour  a  few  cans  of  water  upon  the 
floor  two  or  three  times  a  day. 

Sound  turfy  loam  should  form  the  staple  part  of  the  compost,  and 
to  every  three  parts  of  loam  should  be  added  one  part  of  peat,  one 
part  of  thoroughly  decaved  hotbed  manure,  dried  and  run  through  a 
coarse  sieve,  and  a  third  part  of  silver-sand.  The  loam  and  peat 
must  be  broken  up  moderately,  the  manure  and  sand  then  added, 
and  the  whole  mass  well  incorporated  together.  The  soil  used  when 
the  old  plants  are  shaken  out  should  be  made  rather  finer,  and  have 
a  larger  proportion  of  sand  than  advised  above  ;  which  is  quite 
sufficient,  by  the  way,  for  all  subsequent  shifts.  The  only  matter 
remaining  to  be  mentioned  here  is  that  the  plants  must  be  shifted  on 
until  they  reach  the  size  in  which  they  are  to  flower  as  soon  as  the 
pots  are  nicely  filled  with  root?,  before  they  become  pot-bound, 
because  every  check  they  receive  tends  to  throw  them  prematurely 
into  flower. 

The  best  style  of  training  is  that  shown  in  an  illustration  of  a 
specimen  fuchsia  in  the  catalogue  of  florists'  flowers,  published 
by  Mr.  Cannell,  of  the  Fuchsia  Nursery,  Station  Eoad,  Woolwich.* 
The  specimen  there  figured  is  one  of  a  fine  collection  exhibited  by 
Mr.  Cannell  at  one  of  the  great  summer  shows  of  the  Royal  Botanic 
Society,  Regent's  Park,  last  year.  He  is  undoubtedly  one  of  the 
most  successful  trade  cultivators  and  exhibitors  of  the  fuchsia  in  the 
country,  and  is,  so  far  as  I  am  aware,  the  only  trade  grower  who 
makes  a  specialty  of  this  most  beautiful  and  useful  plant,  and  has 
for  several  years  past  distributed  the  beautiful  varieties  raised  by 
that  veteran  raiser,  Mr.  Banks.  The  plants  exhibited  by  Mr.  Cannell 
upon  the  occasion  referred  to  were  from  cuttings  struck  in  the  spring 

*  Through  the  kindness  of  Mr.  Cannell,  we  are  enabled  to  present  our  readers 
wiih  an  illustration  of  the  line  specimen  to  which  Mr.  James  alludes. 


104  THE  FLORAL   WORLD   AND   GARDEN   GUIDE. 

of  the  preceding  year,  and  the  foundation  was  laid  by  stopping  the 
young  shoots  when  required  during  the  first  year.  In  the  early  part 
of  the  year  in  which  they  were  exhibited  they  were  pruned  into 
shape,  and  when  they  were  growing  freely  the  young  shoots  were 
thinned  out  where  they  were  likely  to  be  too  close  together 
when  full  grown,  and  the  growth  towards  the  top  pinched  once  or 
twice  to  prevent  their  robbing  the  lower  branches  of  their  proper 
share  of  nourishment.  The  young  growth  was  not  stopped  so 
excessively  as  is  usually  practised,  and  the  results  are  certainly 
such  as  to  prove  that  Mi*.  Cannell's  style,  which  is  intermediate 
between  a  bush  and  a  pyramid,  is  one  worthy  of  general  adoption. 
Pyramidal  specimens  are  produced  by  training  up  a  single  stem,  and 
stopping  it  when  necessary  to  promote  the  production  of  side- 
branches,  which  in  their  turn  should  be  stopped  two  or  three  times 
in  the  course  of  the  season. 

Of  the  newer  sorts  that  can  be  recommended,  the  following  are, 
perhaps,  the  best : — Splendour,  Pride  of  Woolwich,  Perfection,  King 
of  the  Stripes,  Will  Sell,  Vesta,  and  Beauty  of  Kent.  Of  the  older 
varieties  the  following  can  be  recommended  as  being  the  most 
desirable  in  the  several  classes : — Enoch  Arden,  Try  Me  O,  Lizzie 
Hexham,  KilliecranTcie,  Brilliantissima,  Lustre,  Beauty  of  Shohden, 
Beauty,  Lady  Heytesbury ',  Conspicua,  Bland's  Floribunda,  Bicturata, 
Mrs.  Ballantine,  Henderson's  Avalanche,  Lord  Calthorpe,  Harry 
Felton,  Champion  of  the  World,  and  Blue  Boy.  There  are  many 
other  good  varieties,  but  the  above  are  sufficient  to  form,  the  nucleus 
of  a  collection. 


DAHLIAS.— No.  II. 

BY  JOHN  WALSH. 


jF  the  directions  given  in  these  pages  last  month,  under 
this  heading,  were  carried  out,  the  cultivator  will  now 
be  in  a  position  to  proceed  with  the  preparation  of  the 
bed  for  the  reception  of  the  plants,  and  a  little  advice 
upon  that  part  of  the  subject  will  doubtless  be  pecu- 
liarly acceptable.  If  it  is  intended  to  exhibit  blooms  in  the  autumn, 
a  favourable  position  must  be  selected  for  the  bed  ;  but  if  merely 
intended  for  the  decoration  of  the  flower-garden,  they  should  be 
planted  wherever  room  can  be  found  for  them  at  the  back  of  the 
mixed  borders. 

Although  I  shall  give  a  few  directions  for  the  preparation  of  the 
bed  for  plants  that  are  to  furnish  blooms  for  exhibition  purposes,  I 
should  certainly  not  advise  those  who  take  them  in  hand  for  the 
first  time  to  exhibit  in  the  forthcoming  autumn.  There  are  so 
many  things  to  learn  respecting  the  management  of  the  plants  and 
the  preparation  of  the  blooms,  before  first-rate  flowers  can  be  pro- 
duced, that  can  only  be  learnt  by  working  at  them  for  a  year  or 
two.     Therefore,  the  chance  of  the  novice  occupying  a  high  position 


THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND   GARDEN   GUIDE.  105 

on  the  prize-lisfc  is  so  small,  that  it  will  be  well  to  wait  for  a  year  or 
two,  until  flowers  that  are  likely  to  do  honour  to  the  cultivator 
are  produced.  This  remark  applies  with  equal  force  to  exhibiting 
plants  and  flowers  of  all  kinds,  and  we  should  have  more  thoroughly 
good  growers  and  better  exhibitions,  were  growers  to  wait  until 
they  had  mastered  the  cultivation  of  the  subjects  they  take  a  fancy 
to  before  bringing  them  before  tbe  public  ;  because,  when  a  young 
grower  is  thorougbly  beaten  or  laughed  at  on  account  of  tbe  infe- 
riority of  his  products,  he  loses  all  heart,  and  the  exhibition  list 
knows  him  no  more,  excepting  as  a  spectator. 

The  situation  selected  for  the  dahlia  beds  must  be  open,  but,  if 
practicable,  slightly  sheltered  from  rough  winds  ;  for,  when  planted 
in  an  exposed  position,  the  branches  are  liable  to  be  snapped  off 
during  boisterous  weather.  Very  heavily-manured  ground  is  not 
desirable,  because,  in  ordinaiy  seasons,  it  encourages  an  excessively 
luxuriant  growth,  and  a  very  small  percentage  of  flowers.  On  the 
other  hand,  if  the  soil  is  poor,  there  will  be  an  abundance  of  flowers, 
but  tbey  will  be  small  in  size  and  poor  in  quality,  besides  the  addi- 
tional risk  of  the  foliage  becoming  infested  with  red-spider,  if  the 
season  happens  to  be  rather  dry.  Ground  that  was  manured  and 
trencbed  rather  deep  in  the  autumn,  and  left  rough  on  the  surface, 
will  now  be  in  the  best  possible  condition  for  planting,  and  the 
plants  can  be  put  out  without  further  trouble  after  the  third  week 
in  May.  There  is,  however,  plenty  of  time  for  preparing  quarters 
that,  from  any  cause,  were  dealt  with  in  the  manner  suggested 
above,  but  no  time  must  be  lost  in  preparing  ground  now.  Dress 
the-  surface  with  two  or  three  inches  of  rotten  manure,  according  as 
it  can  be  spared,  and  dig  it  in  regularly,  and  not  put  all  of  it  into 
the  bottom  of  the  trench,  as  some  writers  advise.  It  is  also  a  good 
plan  to  apply  a  dressing  of  maiden  loam  in  addition  to  the  manure  ; 
but,  as  good  loam  is  so  expensive  in  most  districts,  it  appears 
desirable  to  say  that  good  blooms  can  be  produced  without  its  aid. 
Even  at  this  late  period  the  surface  should  be  left  rather  rough,  as 
the  action  of  the  weather  we  usually  have  during  April  and  the 
early  part  of  May  will  pulverize  it  sufficiently  to  secure  a  good 
earth  by  planting-time. 

It  has  been  already  said  the  planting  should  be  proceeded  with 
after  the  third  week  in  May,  and  it  only  now  remains  to  be  said 
that,  from  that  period  to  the  end  of  the  second  week  in  June,  plant- 
ing may  be  most  successfully  performed.  It  is  not  desirable  to 
defer  the  planting  for  any  length  of  time  after  the  first  of  the  last- 
named  month,  because  the  plants  have  then  such  a  poor  opportunity 
of  becoming  established  before  the  hot  weather  sets  in.  There  is 
no  danger  attached  to  planting  as  early  as  the  second  week  in  May, 
because  the  plants  can  be  protected  from  morning  frosts  by  means 
of  flower-pots  turned  over  them  the  last  thing  the  previous  evening.- 
As  it  is  important  that  every  plant  should  have  sufficient  space  for 
its  full  development,  they  should  be  put  at  a  distance  of  not  less 
than  five  feet  apart.  The  proper  distance  is  six  feet.  The  distance 
at  which  those  in  the  mixed  border  are  put  apart  must  be  regulated 
by  circumstances,  but  in  no  case  is  it  desirable  to  overcrowd  them. 


106  THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

When  growing  for  exhibition,  two  plants  of  each  sort  should  he 
grown,  and  the  number  of  varieties  grown  should  be  nearly  double 
the  number  of  blooms  it  is  intended  to  stage.  The  stakes  should  be 
put  in  the  proper  positions  before  planting,  to  prevent  the  possi- 
bility of  their  injuring  the  roots  when  driven  into  the  soil,  and  they 
must  be  stout  enough  to  support  a  considerable  strain  upon  them. 
AVater  about  every  other  day,  until  well  established,  if  the  weather 
happens  to  be  dry  for  a  time  after  they  are  put  out.  Here  we  must 
quit  the  subject ;  but  directions  for  the  summer  management  shall 
be  given  in  time  to  be  useful. 

The  block  of  Fig.  1,  page  82,  was  unfortunately  put  bottom 
upwards  by  the  printer ;  but  I  do  not  suppose  for  a  moment  that 
any  inconvenience  has  been  felt,  as  the  letterpress  and  the  position 
of  the  other  cuts  are  sufficient  to  show  that  the  first  cut  was  re- 
versed by  mistake. 


SUMMER  CUCUMBERS. 

BY  GEOEGE  GBAT, 

Head  GarJener,  Norbiton  Hall,  Kingston-on-Thames. 


UCUMBERS  are  most  assuredly  of  greater  value  and 
more  highly  appreciated  in  the  summer  months  than 
they  are  during  the  winter  season,  independent  of  the 
vast  difference  of  the  cost  incurred  in  their  production  ; 
yet  it  is  exceptional  to  meet  with  anything  bearing  on 
the  management  of  the  plants  during  the  former  period.  Treatises 
on  the  cultivation  of  winter  cucumbers  are  so  plentiful  that  I  am 
afraid  to  say  how  many  have  made  their  appearance  during  the  last 
four  or  five  years,  for  fear  of  being  considered  guilty  of  exaggeration, 
Avhilst,  at  this  moment,  I  can  only  call  to  mind  one  paper  in  which 
the  management  of  summer  cucumbers  is  specially  dealt  with. 
"Writers  upon  cucumber-growing  have,  apparently,  made  the  mistake 
of  supposing  that  the  production  of  a  summer  crop  is  so  easy  that 
few  require  any  advice  in  the  matter.  Consequently,  they  confine 
themselves  to  describing  the  way  in  which  they  should  be  managed 
at  a  season  when  few  people  have  the  inclination  or  means  of  grow- 
ing them.  Eor  my  own  part,  I  am  convinced  that  a  few  practical 
remarks  on  the  management  of  cucumbers  during  the  summer 
months  will  be  of  considerable  service,  and  accordingly  offer  them 
herewith. 

Eor  securing  a  regular  supply  throughout  the  summer  months 
expensive  appliances  are  not  at  all  necessary  ;  but  if  a  structure  has 
to  be  erected  especially  for  cucumbers,  a  low  span-roof  house,  from 
nine  to  twelve  feet  in  width  would  be  decidedly  preferable,  because 
of  its  value  for  wintering  bedding  and  other  plants.  My  object, 
however,  at  the  present  moment,  is  not  to  enter  into  a  discussion 
respecting  the  erection  of  cucumber-houses,   but   to  show  how  a 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  107 

plentiful  supply  of  cucumbers  may  be  secured  throughout  the 
summer,  with  the  means  and  appliances  already  at  hand.  As  a  rule, 
the  frames  and  other  structures  employed  in  wintering  bedding 
plants  are  idle  during  the  summer,  instead  of  being  turned  to  ac- 
count in  cucumber  and  melon  growing.  In  frames  and  pits  the  soil 
can  be  placed  upon  the  floor,  but  in  greenhouses  and  similar  struc- 
tures, it  will  be  necessary  to  make  up  the  beds  upon  the  side-tables. 
JS"ow,  instead  of  laying  a  few  boards  upon  the  stages,  and  making  the 
bed  of  soil  upon  them,  the  staging  should  be  removed  altogether, 
and  the  plants  grown  in  boxes  or  in  tubs,  capable  of  holding  a  con- 
siderable quantity  of  soil.  It  will  not  be  necessary  to  remove  the 
supports  of  the  stage,  but  if  all  the  woodwork  is  allowed  to  remain, 
and  the  soil  placed  thereon,  whether  in  boxes  or  not,  it  will  be  in  a 
constant  state  of  saturation,  and  will,  consequently,  soon  decay. 
The  boxes  can  be  made  of  the  commonest  material,  so  that  their  cost 
need  only  be  most  trifling,  and  those  who  have  not  the  time,  or  are 
not  handy  in  carpentering,  can  purchase  old  egg-boxes,  which  are 
admirably  adapted  for  this  work;  the  medium-sized  deep  boxes  will 
hold  just  sufficient  soil  for  one  plant,  and  the  long  shallow  boxes,  if 
deepened  by  knocking  the  lids  to  pieces  and  adding  them  to  the  sides 
and  ends,  will  hold  two  plants  comfortably,  although  having  the 
plants  in  separate  boxes  is  decidedly  preferable.  Iu  houses  where 
the  side-tables  consist  of  rough  boards,  covered  with  sand,  gravel,  or 
ashes,  or  slate,  stone,  or  other  imperishable  material,  the  soil  can  be 
put  upon  them,  and  kept  in  its  place  by  means  of  a  few  pieces  of 
board  fixed  on  both  sides.  Bottom-heat  is  neither  necessary  nor 
desirable,  and  the  only  matter  the  cultivator  has  to  study  in  laying 
the  foundation  of  the  bed  is  to  provide  means  for  the  escape  of  the 
superfluous  moisture.  This  will  not  be  a  difficult  matter,  for  if  the 
bottom  is  perfectly  solid,  the  water  will  drain  away  quite  fast  enough 
at  the  sides,  if  the  boards  are  not  fixed  too  close  at  the  bottom. 

"With  respect  to  preparing  the  beds,  it  is  necessary  to  state  that 
two  parts  of  turfy  loam,  one  part  decayed  manure,  and  one  part  of 
leaf-mould,  if  procurable,  will  form  a  most  excellent  compost.  Pre- 
pare by  chopping  the  loam  up  rather  roughly,  and  then  add  the 
manure  and  leaf-mould,  and  well  mix  together.  The  soil  must  be 
used  in  a  lumpy  state,  and  a  layer  of  the  largest  lumps  should  be 
thrown  in  the  bottom  of  the  box  or  bed  previous  to  putting  in  the 
bulk.  Boxes  should  be  filled  to  within  about  six  cr  eight  inches  of 
the  top,  to  afford  space  for  earthing  the  plants  up  after  they  are 
established,  and  iu  the  case  of  beds,  both  in  houses  and  frames,  the 
soil  should  be  put  in  a  ridge  down  the  centre,  and  more  added  as  it 
becomes  necessary,  until  the  bed  has  been  made  large  enough  for 
the  requirements  of  the  plants.  Towards  the  middle  or  end  of  the 
summer,  the  beds  may  be  covered  with  a  layer  of  manure  if  the 
plants  shew  signs  of  exhaustion  ;  but  so  long  as  they  grow  vigorously 
no  top-dressing  will  be  required. 

The  planting  must  be  regulated  by  the  time  the  houses  and 
frames  are  emptied  of  the  bedding  plants,  but  they  should  be  planted 
as  early  in  May  as  possible,  because  no  matter  how  early  they  are 
planted  they  will  continue  to  bear  until  the  autumn,  so  that  every 


108  THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND   GARDEN    GUIDE. 

week  is  a  real  gain.  The  best  way  for  an  amateur  to  procure  a 
stock  would  be  to  purchase  a  few  plants  at  a  neighbouring  nursery, 
unless  he  can  beg  them  from  a  gardener  who  has  them  to  spare. 
This  plan  will  save  considerable  trouble,  although  it  is  not  at  all 
difficult  to  raise  a  stock  from  seed.  The  seed  must,  however,  be 
sown  without  a  day's  delay,  and  to  get  it  up  quickly,  sow  in  small 
pots,  and  put  one  seed  in  each,  and  place  them  on  a  shelf  where 
they  will  be  exposed  to  the  full  blaze  of  the  sun,  and  water  with 
tepid  water.  After  the  plants  are  up  they  must  not  be  so  fully 
exposed,  but  they  must  have  the  advantage  of  the  warmest  corner 
the  greenhouse  affords. 

After  the  plants  are  put  out,  keep  the  temperature  as  near  as 
possible  to  75D  by  day,  but  as  no  fire-heat  will  be  used,  the  heat 
must  be  regulated  by  the  ventilators.  The  house  must,  however, 
be  shut  up  early  in  the  afternoon,  even  if  the  thermometer  rises  to 
90^,  so  as  to  husband  as  much  heat  as  possible  for  the  night.  The 
foliage  should  be  syringed  rather  heavily  once  a  day  at  least,  and 
the  soil  not  allowed  to  become  dry  at  any  time,  or  the  growth  will 
be  checked,  and  the  foliage  quickly  become  infested  with  red  spider. 
The  water  used,  both  for  syringing  and  applying  to  the  roots,  must 
be  tepid,  and  the  supply  for  morning  use  should  be  put  in  the  house 
over-night,  and  that  for  the  afternoon  placed  in  the  full  sun  in  the 
morning. 

The  directions  given  for  training  melons  will  apply  with  equal 
force  to  the  cucumbers,  excepting  that  the  fruit  laterals  should  be 
stopped  at  one  or  two  joints  above  the  fruit  when  it  is  about  one  or 
two  inches  in  length.  To  avoid  the  necessity  of  having  to  remove  a 
large  quantity  of  the  growth  at  once,  a  judicious  system  of  stopping 
must  be  practised,  and  the  shoots  not  likely  to  be  wanted  should  be 
pinched  off  when  a  few  inches  in  length.  It  will,  however,  be 
necessary  to  cut  out  a  portion  of  the  old  wood  occasionally,  to 
maintain  a  supply  of  bearing  wood. 

The  best  sorts  for  an  amateur  to  grow  for  the  table  are,  Sutton's 
Berkshire  Champion,  Bollison's  Telegraph,  and  Master's  Prolific,  of 
the  white  spine  class  ;  and  Godfrey's  Black  Spine,  and  Kirklees  Hall 
Defiance,  of  the  black  spine  section. 


THE  CULTIVATION  OF  THE  EOSE.— No.  VI. 

HOW  TO  PRUNE  ROSES. 

OME  people  prune  their  roses  with  a  knife  and  fork ; 
that  is  a  practice  I  strongly  object  to.  Some  do  not 
prune  them  at  all,  and  that  modus  I  approve  of  gene- 
rally, for  a  rose  not  pruned  will  be  sure  to  flower,  and 
a  rose  badly  pruned  may  have  all  the  flower-buds  cut 
out  of  it.  If  it  is  a  toss-up,  I  cry  for  no  pruning,  because  Nature 
intends  that  roses  should  flower,  and  will  accomplish  that  without 
our  help,  but  judicious  pruning  is  to  be  advised,  both  for  the  regula- 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE.  109 

tion  of  the  growth  and  the  production  of  fine  flowers.  The  subject  of 
pruning  admits  of  both  general  and  particular  treatment.  As  a 
matter  of  course  we  dispose  of  generalities  first,  and,  with  the 
reader's  kind  permission,  will  suppose  that  the  reader  knows  nothing 
at  all  about  pruning.  'Now,  in  the  absence  of  technical  knowledge, 
common-sense  is  sometimes  useful,  and  any  one  ignorant  of  the 
niceties  of  rose-culture  may  make  a  pretty  safe  guess  about  the 
pruning  of  a  rose  by  the  aid  of  common-sense  alone.  Suppose  it 
presents  a  number  of  very  long  whip-like  shoots,  we  should  say 
Nature  intended  those  long  shoots  for  some  useful  purpose,  and  to 
cut  them  all  away  would  be  murder.  But  we  might  observe  in  one 
part  of  the  growth  two  or  three  of  these  long  shoots  entangled  and 
crowded,  and  it  might  occur  that  to  remove  one  or  two,  in  order  to 
leave  ample  room  for  the  full  development  of  the  others,  would  be 
sensible  ;  so  far  common-sense  might  suggest,  and  science  would 
respond  in  approval.  Next  we  might  turn  to  a  rose  of  short,  stubby, 
twiggy  growth,  and  be  perplexed  about  the  pruning  in  this  case. 
It  may  have  been  observed  that,  on  this  rose,  the  finest  flowers  were 
always  produced  on  young,  vigorous,  and  rather  greenish  shoots,  and 
this  would  suggest  the  advisability  of  getting  rid  of  some  of  the  old 
hard,  dark-coloured  wood,  bristling  with  little  twigs,  on  which  roses 
were  borne  long  ago.  This  would  be  just  the  course  that  science  re- 
quires, for  the  essence  of  the  subject  may  be  summed  up  in  this — that 
the  pruner  should,  as  far  as  possible,  promote  perpetual  renewal  of 
the  tree,  and  look  to  the  latest  growths  for  a  display  of  flowers. 

All  roses  that  have  free-growing  bushes,  such  as  the  Hybrid 
Perpetuals,  Gallicas,  and  Bourbons,  may,  when  grown  on  their  own 
roots,  be  left  altogether  unpruned,  and  they  will  be  splendid  objects 
from  year  to  year.  This  is  rank  heterodoxy,  I  know,  but  it  is  true, 
and  I  confess  I  have  always  enjoyed  a  great  bank  of  roses,  of  about 
a  di  zen  different  kinds,  that  have  never  once  been  pruned  during  the 
past  fifteen  years,  but  have  become  huge  bushes,  that,  in  their  season, 
are  literally  smothered  with  flowers.  This  system,  however,  must  not 
be  followed  if  flowers  fit  for  exhibition  are  required ;  indeed,  to  in- 
sure high  quality,  we  must  practise  pruning  by  rule,  and  be  content 
with  a  few  flowers.  Probably,  nine-tenths  of  all  our  readers  would 
prefer  a  brave  show  of  garden  roses  to  the  production  of  a  few 
flowers  of  the  most  perfect  form,  and  beyond  the  average  in  size, 
and  to  all  such  we  commend  the  simple  plan  of  planting  the  most 
robust-habited  and  free-flowering  sorts  on  their  own  roots,  and  leav- 
ing them  to  grow  almost  wild,  and  in  happy  ignorance  of  the  pruning 
knife,  and  without  a  stake  or  tie  to  disfigure  their  natural  graceful- 
ness. "We  will  now  treat  of  particular  modes  of  pruning,  taking 
the  families  in  the  same  order  as  they  are  treated  of  in  the  "  Bose 
Book." 

Cabbage  Eoses  should  be  pruned  rather  close,  all  the  longest 
shoots  being  cut  back  to  about  a  third  of  their  original  length. 
They  will  then,  from  the  half  dozen  buds  left  on  each  plump  shoot, 
put  forth  noble  clusters  of  flowers. 

Moss  Roses  require  to  be  pruned  in  the  same  manner  as  advised 
for  cabbage  roses. 


110  THE    FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

Damask  Roses  make  [handsome  standards  and  fine  free  bushes 
on  their  own  roots.  In  pruning,  remove  by  a  clean  cut  to  the  very 
base  a  few  of  the  oldest  shoots,  but  not  to  the  impoverishing  of  the 
tree.  The  young  vigorous  shoots  should  be  shortened  to  two-thirds 
their  original  length,  and  the  smaller  twiggy  growth  be  well  thinned 
out. 

G-allica  or  French  Roses  have  a  compact,  upright  growth, 
and  consequently  do  not  make  handsome  standards.  They  require 
rather  close  pruning,  the  strongest  shoots  to  have  seven  or  eight 
buds  left,  the  weaker  shoots  only  two  or  three,  and  the  small  wiry 
wood  should  be  cut  clean  away. 

Alba  or  White  Roses  constitute  a  peculiar  class  with  green 
shoots,  light  glossy  foliage,  and  white  flesh  or  pink-coloured 
flowers.  These  are  among  the  very  best  of  roses  to  be  grown  in  the 
form  of  bushes  without  any  pruning  at  all.  The  proper  way  to 
prune  them  is  to  cut  back  to  about  half  its  length  every  strong 
young  shoot,  and  to  within  two  or  three  buds  of  the  base  all  the 
weaker  shoots.     The  wiry  wood  must  be  removed  entirely. 

Hybrid  China  Roses  require  careful  pruniug,  or  they  will  not 
produce  their  flowers  profusely.  One  important  duty  of  the  culti- 
vator is  to  promote  renewal  constantly  by  cutting  out  a  few  of  the 
oldest  of  the  long  rods  to  make  room  for  younger  rods  that  will 
take  their  place.  The  finest  show  of  flowers  will  be  secured  by 
leaving  a  few  of  the  longest  shoots  altogether  unpruned  ;  but,  as 
tidiness  of  appearance  is  an  object,  the  shoots  may  all  be  slightly 
shortened,  and  they  must  be  thinned  out  where  crowded.  Indis- 
criminate hacking  and  cutting  will  simply  ruin  these  roses,  therefore 
they  are  not  to  be  pruned  without  a  little  first  consideration  of 
their  habit. 

Hybrid  Bourbon  Roses,  of  vigorous  habit,  should  not  be 
severely  pruned,  but  those  of  close-growing  habit  should  be  cut  in 
rather  close,  leaving  an  average  of  half  a  dozen  buds  on  each  shoot. 
All  the  wiry  spurs  that  produced  flowers  last  season  should  now  be 
cut  clean  away. 

Austrian  Brier  Roses  require  careful  pruning,  the  strong 
shoots  to  be  only  slightly  shortened,  and  the  wiry  twigs  to  be  left 
untouched,  except  they  happen  to  be  crowded ;  in  which  case  they 
must  be  thinned. 

Scotch  Roses  do  not  require  pruning  at  all,  except  to  keep  them 
in  some  sort  of  order,  and,  as  a  rule,  they  are  most  enjoyable  when 
allowed  to  run  riot  in  the  utmost  disorder. 

Ayrshire  Roses  ought  never  to  be  pruned  except  to  regulate 
their  general  outlines,  and  admit  light  and  air  amongst  their  branches. 

Multielora  Roses  should  never  be  pruned,  except  to  keep 
them  in  order,  and  occasionally  renew  them  by  substituting  new 
shoots  for  old  ones. 

Evergreen  Roses  should  never  be  severely  pruned,  except  to 
promote  renewal,  and  keep  them  in  proper  order. 

Boursault  Roses  scarcely  require  pruning,  but  they  must  be 
kept  in  order,  and  from  time  to  time  the  oldest  shoots  should  be  cut 
clean  out. 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND   GARDEN   GUIDE.  m 

Banksian  Eoses  should  be  carefully  pruned  immediately  after 
flowering,  and  at  no  other  time  ;  then  the  grosser  shoots  should  be 
cut  clean  out,  and  the  twiggy  branches  should  be  shortened  and 
moderately  thinned.  If  never  pruned  at  all,  the  worst  that  will 
happen  to  them  will  be  crowding  of  the  growth. 

Hybrid  Perpetual  Hoses  vary  so  much  in  habit  that  the 
pruner  must  operate  in  accordance  with  their  style  of  growth. 
They  may,  however,  be  all  left  unpruned,  and  will  grow  and  flower 
superbly.  But  to  insure  flowers  of  fine  quality,  and  keep  the  trees 
in  formal  trim,  pruning  must  be  systematically  performed,  and  there 
can  be  no  better  rule  for  it  than  that  given  at  page  44  of  the  "  Bose 
Book."  It  is  given  in  these  words  : — "  As  for  the  pruning  of  these 
roses,  cut  back  to  a  plump  bud,  so  as  to  remove  the  light  spray  which 
has  produced  flowers,  and  cut  the  moderate  growers  closer  aud  more 
severely  than  those  that  grow  vigorously.  When  shoots  as  thick  as 
a  carpenter's  pencd  are  produced,  six  to  ten  buds  may  be  allowed, 
upon  an  average,  to  each  shoot ;  if  these  are  cut  back  to  buds  placed 
outwards,  the  growth  will  always  be  of  a  nature  to  keep  the  head 
open,  and  for  this  purpose  all  shoots  that  crowd  the  centre  should 
be  removed  by  a  clean  cut  to  the  base.  To  make  the  most  of  these 
roses  they  should  be  freely  but  carefully  pruned  during  summer." 
As  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals  are  most  commouly  grown,  so  they  are  the 
most  commonly  abused  and  ill-treated,  and  their  too-general  fate  is 
to  be  pruned  destructively  by  jobbing  gardeners,  who  think  the  more 
they  cut  the  better  is  the  work  done,  and  hack  and  slash  accordingly. 
Happy  the  amateur  who  can  prune  his  own  roses,  or,  at  least,  stand 
by  and  direct ;  for  when  Nature  has  kindly  produced  a  fine  spreading 
bush  of  ripe  hard  wood  for  the  production  of  noble  flowers,  it  is 
murder  to  cut  this  useful  wood  away,  except  by  real  artistic  rule, 
the  first  requirement  of  which  is  that  enough  of  it  shall  be  left  to 
prove  that  the  rose  is  the  Queen  of  the  Garden. 

Bourbon  Eoses  should  never  be  severely  pruned,  but  the  twi^s 
on  which  last  year's  flowers  were  borne  should  be  removed,  and  the 
young  growth  shortened  and  thinned,  with  a  view  to  produce  com- 
pact symmetrical  heads.  The  more  robust  the  habit  the  less  must 
they  know  of  the  knife. 

China  Boses  of  small  growth  require  to  be  pruned  with  a  view 
to  keep  them  neat  and  compact,  and  hence  the  shortening  of  the 
longest  shoots  is  usually  sufficient.  Where  planted  to  make  belts 
and  masses,  they  may  be  left  almost  unpruned  with  advantage  -  but 
where  neatness  is  required,  they  must  be  just  kept  in  shape  and 
nothing  more. 

Tea-scented  Boses  vary  much  in  habit,  and  require  to  be  pruned 
in  accordance  with  their  degrees  of  robustness.  A  few  strong- 
growing  kinds  make  rods  of  great  length  and  thickness,  while  at  the 
other  end  of  the  scale  we  have  little  wiry  mites  that  may  always  be 
covered  with  a  peck  measure.  The  long  rods  should  be  left  nearly 
their  full  length,  but  they  may  be  shortened  to  half  their  length, 
without  pruning  the  bloom  out  of  them.  Periodical  renewal  from 
the  base  must  be  encouraged,  and  if  the  trees  are  well  fed  they  will 
be  always  throwing  out  new  aud  vigorous  shoots.     The  small  kinds 


112  THE  FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

need  regulating  and  careful  thinning,  and  may  be  pruned  close  with- 
out harm. 

Noisette  Roses  may  be  left  to  grow  wild  without  any  pruning, 
and  will  make  a  glorious  show.  But  where  order  is  the  gardener's 
first  law,  they  may  be  pruned  in  the  same  way  as  advised  for  the 
Tea-scented. 

Macaethey  Roses  are  grand  things  for  walls,  in  sheltered  situa- 
tions ;  they  scarcely  require  any  pruning,  but  must  be  kept  in  order 
and  the  growth  as  evenly  distributed  as  possible. 

The  Time  to  Prune  is  not  sufficiently  understood.  Save  and 
except  the  pruning  that  should  be  done  in  summer,  instantly  upon 
the  decline  of  the  first  bloom,  the  proper  time  to  prune  is  some  time 
in  the  months  of  March  or  April,  and,  as  a  rule,  the  later  the  better. 
In  a  sheltered  spot,  where  spring  frosts  rarely  do  mischief,  pruning 
may  commence  in  January  to  promote  an  early  bloom.  But  for  the 
average  of  climates  in  these  islands,  it  is  well  to  allow  the  trees  to 
make  a  little  growth  before  pruning  them.  If  late  frosts  occur,  this 
growth  is  injured,  but  presently  afterwards  the  pruning- knife  re- 
moves it,  and  a  new  and  more  vigorous  growth  starts  from  the  lower 
buds  left  by  the  pruner.  To  be  in  undue  haste  to  prune  roses  is  to 
expose  to  risk  and  injury  by  late  spring  frosts.  S.  H. 


BEDDERS  AND  BEDDING.— No.  III. 

BY    A    HEAD    GAEDENEE. 
PREPARATION  OF  THE  BEDS. 

'N  the  two  last  numbers  of  the  Eeoeae  "Woeld,  the  pro- 
pagation and  selection  of  the  best  bedders  was  briefly 
dealt  with,  and  we  will  now  offer  a  few  suggestions  re- 
specting the  preparation  of  the  beds  for  their  reception, 
and  then  indicate  the  most  suitable  situations  for  the 
different  classes  of  plants  employed  in  the  embellishment  of  the 
flower  garden.  The  advice,  with  respect  to  turning  up  the  beds  in 
the  autumn,  and  then  leaving  them  in  a  rough  state  until  the  fol- 
lowing spring,  still  holds  goods  where  it  can  be  carried  out ;  but 
where  the  beds  are  filled,  as  they  should  be,  with  spring-flowering 
plants,  it  is  impossible  for  them  to  be  prepared  for  the  summer 
until  a  late  period  in  the  spring.  Hence,  what  follows  is  strictly 
seasonable.  A  few  years  since  it  was  commonly  supposed  that 
flowers  could  be  grown  without  the  assistance  of  manure  at  all ;  and 
it  was  not  until  after  repeated  failures  of  such  things  as  calceolarias 
and  verbenas,  that  a  large  proportion  of  flower  gardeners  could  be 
convinced  to  the  contrary.  It  is  now,  however,  generally  admitted, 
thanks  to  the  teaching  of  our  Editor  here  and  elsewhere,  that  with- 
out the  assistance  of  manure,  in  some  form,  flower  gardening  can- 
not be  carried  on  successfully  with  any  more  success  than  would  be 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  113 

attendant  on  an  attempt  to  grow  vegetables  without  maintaining 
the  fertility  of  the  soil  by  means  of  liberal  dressings  of  fertilizing 
matters.  This  point  being  conceded,  all  that  need  be  said  can  be 
summed  up  in  a  very  few  words.  First  of  all,  it  is  necessary  to 
decide  upon  the  arrangements  without  delay,  if  not  already  done,  to 
avoid  delay  and  confusion  at  planting-time,  and  also  to  insure  the 
beds  being  prepared  in  a  manner  most  congenial  to  the  subjects 
with  which  they  are  occupied  during  the  eusuing  season.  The 
arrangements  being  determined  upon,  and  the  way  in  which  each 
bed  is  to  be  planted  duly  entered  in  a  book,  the  work  of  preparation 
must  be  proceeded  with  as  fast  as  the  beds  are  cleared  of  their 
winter  occupants.  All  the  beds  should  be  dug  up  as  deeply  as  it 
is  possible  to  dig  them  ;  but  if  all  receive  an  equal  dressing  of 
manure,  the  manure  will  be  worse  than  wasted ;  because  plants  that 
do  best  in  poor  soil  will  grow  too  luxuriantly  for  them  to  flower 
well,  whilst  others  that  require  a  very  liberal  share  of  nourishment, 
will  be  partially  starved  for  the  want  of  food.  Bedding  geraniums 
of  all  kinds,  with  but  few  exceptions  indeed,  do  much  best  when 
planted  in  newly-manured  ground,  as  also  do  centaureas,  the  dwarf 
tagetes,  and  a  few  other  things  that  could  be  mentioned.  On  the 
other  hand,  violas,  calceolarias,  and  verbenas  seldom  do  well  unless 
the  ground  has  been  liberally  dressed  with  half-rotten  manure.  For 
such  things  as  petunias,  ageratums,  heliotropiums,  and  most  of  the 
ornamental-leaved  plants  used  for  bedding,  an  intermediate  course 
is  desirable,  so  as  to  maintain  a  healthy  and  moderately  vigorous 
growth  without  encouraging  excessive  luxuriance.  The  best  manure 
for  plants  of  this  class  is  either  well -rotted  leaf -mould,  or  decayed 
or  charred  vegetable  refuse  used  in  a  rather  liberal  manner.  Few 
gardeners  care  to  take  the  trouble  of  regulating  the  dressing  of 
manure  according  to  the  requirements  of  the  plants  ;  and  the  general 
rule,  so  far  as  my  observations,  which  have  extended  over  a  rather 
wide  area  during  the  last  half  century,  is  to  dress  all  the  beds  in  the 
flower  garden  alike.  Consequently,  the  behaviour  of  the  plants  is 
far  from  satisfactory,  even  if  they  do  not  fail  altogether.  In  clear- 
ing the  beds  in  the  spring,  everything,  excepting  bulbs  and  plants 
required  for  propagating  purposes,  should  be  dug  in  instead  of  being 
wheeled  to  the  rubbish  heaps  to  poison  the  air  of  the  whole  neigh- 
bourhood with  the  noxious  exhalation  arising  therefrom.  By  bury- 
ing the  matter  in  the  beds,  a  vast  saving  of  time  and  fertilizing 
matter  is  effected,  independent  of  the  objection  of  having  a  heap 
of  vegetable  refuse  in  a  state  of  decomposition  in  the  garden. 

In  making  the  arrangements  for  the  forthcoming  season,  due 
regard  should  be  paid,  as  far  as  practicable,  to  putting  each  class  of 
plants  in  the  position  most  congenial  to  it.  In  planting  a  group  of 
beds,  primary  importance  must,  of  course,  be  attached  to  the  group- 
ing of  the  colours,  but  where  the  beds  are  dotted  about  on  different, 
parts  of  the  lawn,  much  might  be  done  in  this  respect.  This,  I  have 
no  doubt,  appears  a  trivial  matter  to  many,  but  the  failures  arising 
from  the  mistakes  of  putting  shade-loving  plants  in  the  full  sun, 
and  vice  versa,  are  so  numerous,  and  cause  so  much  dissatisfaction 
every  season,  that  no  apology  is  necessary  for  alluding  to  it  here. 

VOL.  VI. — NO.  IV.  8 


114  THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND   GARDEN   GUIDE. 

As  a  guide  to  the  inexperienced  I  will  classify  the  most  important 
genera  employed  in  flower  garden  decoration  according  to  the  posi- 
tions in  which  they  do  best.  But  it  must  be  borne  in  mind  that  a 
very  large  proportion  of  the  bedders  will  do  moderately  well  in 
almost  any  position.  Amongst  those  flourishing  in  a  cool  and 
partially  shady  situation  we  must  include  Ageratums,  Calceolarias, 
Variegated  Geraniums,  Fuchsias,  Lobelias,  Heliotropiums,  Verbenas, 
and  Violas.  Amongst  those  that  do  well  in  a  dry  hot  position,  are 
Alternantheras,  Bouvardias,  Coleus,  Centaureas,  Zonal  Geraniums, 
Iresines,  Lantanas,  Petunias,. Tropseolums,  Veronicas,  and  succulent 
plants  of  all  kinds,  and  nearly  all  the  Subtropicals. 


KITCHEN  GARDEN  BOOTS. 


«|HE  tap-rooted  plants  grown  in  the  kitchen  garden  cannot 
usually  be  sown  with  advantage  until  the  month  of 
April,  although  in  forward  seasons  parsnips  may  be 
sown  with  safety  in  the  month  of  March.  Important 
as  these  crops  are,  there  is  really  not  much  to  be  said 
about  them,  though  what  little  should  be  said  is  as  important  as  the 
roots  themselves  ;  for  good  crops  of  roots  make  a  great  return  for 
the  labour  bestowed  upon  them,  and  to  secure  good  crops  we  must 
practise  o-ood  cultivation.  As,  in  a  periodical  work,  we  are  bouud 
to  begin  somewhere  with  reference  to  the  passing  time,  we  shall 
now  suppose  that  those  of  our  readers  who  grow  garden  roots  have 
plots  of  land  made  ready  for  them  by  deep  trenching,  and  that  it 
depends  on  the  weather  for  a  nice  friable  top-crust  on  which  the 
seed  can  be  sown.  Taking  this  for  granted,  we  proceed  to  offer  a  few 
practical  advices,  which  we  hope  will  to  many  prove  useful. 

The  Caeeot  is  the  most  important  of  all  the  garden  roots,  the 
potato  alone  excepted.  Two  supplies  of  carrots  should  be  arranged 
for  in  every  garden.  A  dish  of  small,  tender  carrots  constitutes 
one  of  the  elegances  of  the  table  during  the  summer  and  autumn, 
and  large  carrots  are  in  demand  all  the  winter,  and,  indeed,  as  long  as 
they  can  be  obtained  throughout  the  year.  Fortunately,  both  sorts 
can  be  grown  in  any  garden  that  will  produce  a  cabbage  ;  but  first- 
class  winter  carrots  fit  for  exhibition  can  only  be  grown  in  a  deep, 
well-pulverized  loam,,  or  nourishing  sandy  soil  that  has  been  long 
in  cultivation.  In  common  with  all  other  crops,  deep  digging  some 
time  in  advance  of  sowing  is  necessary  to  insure  a  heavy  produc- 
tion of  handsome  roots ;  and  the  best  plot  of  ground  that  can  be 
selected  for  sowing  carrot-seed  on  is  one  that  was  heavily  manured 
last  season,  and  well  trenched  up  before  winter.  To  incorporate 
fresh  manure  with  the  soil  in  making  preparations  for  the  cultiva- 
tion of  the  carrot,  is  bad  practice ;  but  in  the  case  of  a  worn-out 
plot  being  required  for  this  crop,  it  may  be  trenched  two  spits  deep, 
and  a  good  bed  of  manure  may  be  laid  in  the  trench  as  the  work 
proceeds.  It  is  of  the  utmost  importance  to  have  the  surface  soil 
dry  and  pulverulent,  and  it  is  better  to  wait  for  fine  weather  and  a 


THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND   GARDEN   GUIDE.  115 

good  seed-bed  than  sow  when  the  ground  is  cold  and  pasty.  Carrot- 
seed  is  light,  chaffy  stuff",  requiring  careful  handling  to  distribute  it 
regularly  in  the  drill.  It  is  the  custom  of  some  cultivators  to  mix 
it  with  sand,  to  render  it  more  tangible,  but  the  practised  hand  needs 
no  such  aid.  The  drills  should  be  drawn  very  shallow,  at  a  distance 
of  six  to  nine  inches  apart  for  the  smaller  kinds,  and  a  foot  apart 
for  the  larger.  It  is  usual  to  sow  rather  thick,  and  to  thin  severely  ; 
and  as  the  seed  is  cheap,  we  need  not  find  fault  with  the  common 
practice ;  but,  with  good  seed,  thin  sowing  is  certainly  better  than 
thick,  because  seed  is  saved,  and  there  is  less  thinning  to  do  after- 
wards. The  thinning  of  the  crop  should  commence  as  soon  as  the 
plants  are  large  enough  to  handle,  and,  at  the  same  time,  if  weeds 
are  rising  with  them,  the  scuffle-hoe  should  be  employed  between 
the  rows,  to  keep  the  ground  clean.  A  few  very  nice  dishes  of 
tender  summer  carrots  may  be  obtained  by  careful  thinning  of  the 
beds  sown  for  winter  use.  But  the  proper  carrot  for  summer  is  the 
"French  Horn,  a  small,  elegant  root,  which  may  be  stored  for  winter, 
but  is  most  useful  to  draw  when  young  for  immediate  cooking,  when 
it  is  peculiarly  tender  and  delicate.  This  small  carrot  is  sown  for 
an  early  crop  on  beds  of  light  rich  soil,  made  up  with  foundations  of 
half-exhausted  fermenting  material,  such  as  stable  manure  or  leaves, 
and  covered  with  frames.  A  proper  hotbed  would  force  them  too 
rapidly,  but  a  gentle  warmth  of  soil  and  judicious  sheltering,  with 
plenty  of  air  as  weather  may  permit,  are  the  conditions  under  which 
an  early  supply  may  be  most  surely  secured.  The  first  sowings  are 
made  in  this  way  in  January  and  February,  and  these  are  succeeded 
by  sowings  on  open  borders,  hi  warm  and  sheltered  spots,  in  March 
and  April,  and  on  any  piece  of  ground  that  may  be  vacant  in  Julv. 
As  a  rule,  the  Horn  carrot  should  be  sown  in  very  small  breadth's, 
or  there  will  be  a  superabundant  supply  ;  but  as  the  requirements  of 
families  differ  immensely,  a  general  caution  against  "  overdoing 
it  "  is  all  that  can  be  offered  here.  In  our  garden  we  always  grow 
more  than  suffices  for  the  kitchen,  and  so  the  cattle  come  in  for  a 
pleasant  variation  of  their  daily  food. 

The  best  of  all  the  sorts  for  use  in  winter  and  spring  ia  the  Long 
Surrey,  which  is  the  handsomest  and  best  flavoured.  A  more  pro- 
fitable, but  a  thoroughly  coarse  variety,  is  the  Altringliam,  which  has 
an  objectionable  green  crown.  In  gross  weight  of  crop  this  will 
always  surpass  the  Long  Surrey,  and,  though  coarse  and  ugly,  it  is 
a  good  carrot.  A  most  valuable  variety  for  shallow  soils  is  James's 
Intermediate,  which  has  every  good  quality  that  can  be  desired 
except  beauty,  for  it  is  short  and  club-like,  but  in  colour  and  flavour 
excellent. 

The  Paesnip  thrives  in  any  soil,  with  or  without  manure,  pro- 
vided it  is  fairly  prepared  for  by  deep  digging  some  time  in  advance 
of  sowing  the  seed.  It  is,  perhaps,  the  most  profitable  of  all  the 
roots  grown  in  the  kitchen  garden,  but  it  is  less  generally  esteemed, 
and  is  therefore  less  generally  useful,  than  the  potato.  No  one  who 
cares  to  eat  this  sugary  root  need  be  deterred  from  growing  it  by 
untoward  circumstances.  "We  have  grown  a  crop  in  a  field  of 
stones,  in  a  sterile  district,  where  we  had  to  carry  sand  in  to  cover 


116  THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 

the  seed,  and  the  roots  at  harvesting  time  were  only  a  little  thicker 
than  a  big  man's  thumb,  yet,  when  slowly  cooked  in  a  small 
quantity  of  water,  they  were  as  marrowy  and  sweet  as  the  finest  of 
the  Jersey  parsnips  ;  indeed,  we  are  inclined  to  believe  they  were  a 
few  degrees  better.  However,  though  small  roots  are  not  to  be 
despised,  large  ones  are  most  valued,  and  a  rich,  deep  soil  will  pro- 
duce them  with  just  no  mere  trouble  than  deep  digging  and  sowing 
the  seed,  for  they  scarcely  want  weeding,  and  the  thinning  may  be 
performed  in  almost  no  time.  If,  however,  extra  large  roots  are 
required,  the  way  to  secure  them  is  to  trench  two  spits  deep,  and 
put  a  good  bed  of  fat  manure  in  the  bottom  of  the  trench — the  roots 
will  find  it  in  good  time,  and  the  result  will  be  satisfactory.  But 
manure  dug  in  with  surface-digging  is  more  harm  than  good,  for  the 
roots,  instead  of  going  straight  down,  make  all  sorts  of  ugly  forks 
and  fibres,  and  a  very  large  proportion  of  the  whole  bulk  is  wasted 
in  preparing  them  for  cooking,  Therefore,  if  the  labour  of  trench- 
ing and  putting  manure  at  the  bottom  of  the  trenches  is  too  great, 
do  not  employ  manure,  and  be  content  with  smaller,  but  more 
usable  roots.  In  any  case,  however,  deep  and  earnest  stirring  of  the 
soil  is  a  proper  preparation  for  this  crop.  Hard  work,  more  than 
"  fine  words,"  tends  to  the  buttering  of  parsnips. 

Sow  fresh  seed  in  March,  or  early  in  April.  The  seed  bed  should 
be  fine  and  dry.  If  large  roots  are  desired,  sow  in  drills,  fifteen  to 
eighteen  inches  apart,  and  thin  to  a  foot ;  if  the  ground  is  poor,  sow 
twelve  inches  asunder,  and  thin  to  nine  or  six  inches.  Distances 
depend  on  conditions,  but  a  mistake  will  not  ruin  the  plantation  r 
for  if  parsnips  are  rather  crowded,  it  does  not  much  matter ;  but 
the  size  of  the  roots  will  of  necessity  depend  upon  the  space  allowed 
them.  During  showery  weather  in  July  and  August,  a  final  thiuning 
may  be  made  of  roots  that  elbow  each  other,  and  they  will  be  found 
exceedingly  marrowy  and  delicate  when  cooked. 

Beetroot  should  be  available  every  day  throughout  the  year ; 
but  like  other  roots  it  can  be  grown  only  during  summer.  Where 
the  demand  is  unremitting,  the  cultivator  must  secure  early  crops 
for  use  in  autumn,  and  must  store  well  and  plentifully  for  supply  in 
spring  and  summer.  We  have  found  it  tolerably  easy  work  to  do 
this  until  July,  and  then  the  old  beets  were  becoming  fibrous,  and 
the  young  ones  were  too  small  to  pull,  and  there  was  the  shadow  of 
a  hitch  sometimes.  But  it  can  be  done,  and  wherever  salads  are  in 
request  all  the  year  round,  beetroot  must  be  provided  for  them. 
Our  practice  is  to  sow  a  few  rows  on  half- fermenting  beds  in  frames 
in  February,  as  advised  for  the  early  production  of  Horn  carrots, 
and  this  plan  enables  us  to  supply  the  kitchen  with  fine  roots  at  the 
end  of  June  aud  throughout  July,  when  the  roots  in  the  store  are 
acquiring  an  undesirable  toughness.  As  the  subject  of  storing 
comes  before  us  properly  here,  we  may  as  well  dispose  of  it.  A  bed 
of  earth  in  a  shed  of  any  kind,  safe  from  frost,  answers  the  purpose 
well.  Better  is  it,  however,  to  store  the  roots  in  dry  sand  in  a 
place  where  neither  moisture,  nor  frost,  nor  the  warmth  of  spring, 
can  reach  them.  Our  best  store  is  a  shed  built  of  brick  in  a  north 
aspect ;  it  is  safe  from  frost,  and  the  spring  sunshine  has  but  little 


THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND   GARDEN   GUIDE.  H7 

effect  on  its  temperature.  Some  time  in  March  the  whole  stock 
should  be  taken  out,  and  the  new  roots  and  shoots  rubbed  off  and  the 
stock  pitted  again.  The  roots  should  be  laid  horizontally,  as  that 
position  affords  a  slight  check  to  growth.  But  once  a  month  at  least 
— if  late  keeping  is  important — they  should  all  be  looked  over,  and 
every  sign  of  growth  removed,  for  if  allowed  to  make  roots  and 
leaves  they  soon  become  worthless. 

As  for  the  cultivation,  it  is  the  simplest  matter  in  the  world. 
Sow  in  shallow  drills,  putting  the  seed  as  nearly  as  possible  singly 
six  inches  apart.  As  nearly  as  possible,  mind,  and  do  not  waste 
valuable  time  about  it,  because  if  you  sow  too  thick,  it  is  no  great 
task  to  thin  the  rows  to  nine  inches  or  a  foot  apart,  when  the  plants 
are  large  enough  to  handle.  It  is  not  desirable  to  grow  large  beets 
as  a  rule,  but  if  they  are  required,  proceed  in  the  same  way  as  re- 
commended for  the  production  of  large  parsnips.  For  open  ground 
crops,  where  especial  earliness  of  production  is  of  no  consequence, 
sow  in  April  and  May,  and  take  up  in  November.  When  storing 
them,  cut  off  the  tails  and  some  portion  of  the  crowns,  but  be  care- 
ful not  to  wound  any  part  of  the  usable  fleshy  root,  for  there  should 
never  be  a  puncture  in  a  beet  until  it  is  cooked  and  cold — -in  fact, 
the  cook  who  would  put  a  fork  into  a  beet  to  try  if  it  is  "  done," 
ought  to  be  disarmed  without  the  honours  of  war.  But  careful  top- 
ping and  tailing  is  to  be  advised,  as  it  promotes  close  storing,  and 
prevents  growth  in  spring.  All  the  varieties  of  beets  have  been 
grown  again  and  again  in  the  Experimental  Garden  at  Stoke  New- 
ington,  and,  as  a  matter  of  course,  we  find  that  very  few  are  needed 
in  any  ordinary  garden.  The  three  best  are  Sutton's  Dark  Red, 
Nutting's  Dwarf  Bed,  and  Henderson's  Pine  Apple.  If  large  and 
handsome  roots  are  desired,  grow  DelVs  Short  Top,  and  Whjtis  Blade. 
For  particularly  small  and  delicate  roots  of  fine  flavour,  grow  Carter's 
St.  Osytli.  If  the  soil  is  shallow,  and  the  production  of  handsome 
roots  doubtful,  sow  Egyptian  Turnip  Booted.  Beet  is  occasionally 
grow  in  the  flower  garden  for  the  sake  of  the  deep  colour  of  its 
leaves.  In  this  case,  a  green-leaved  variety  will  not  do,  so,  therefore 
Barr  and  Sug  den's  Crimson-leaved  is  the  best. 

Salsify  is  sometimes  called  the  "  Vegetable  Oyster,"  because, 
when  properly  dressed,  its  flavour  reminds  lovers  of  that  favourite 
mollusk  of  the  joys  that  belong  to  months  in  which  the  letter  R 
occurs.  I  must  confess  that,  although  I  have  enjoyed  many  a  dish 
of  salsify,  I  have  never  yet  found  it  a  sufficient  substitute  for  the 
buttery  bivalve,  and  am  content  to  know  it  as  salsify  simply,  without 
aid  of  a  comparative  designation.  This  root  has  a  natural  tendency 
to  forkedness,  which  it  is  the  duty  of  the  cultivator  to  correct,  by 
treating  it  precisely  as  recommended  for  the  production  of  extra 
large  parsnips — that  is  by  trenching,  and  putting  a  good  bed  of 
manure  in  the  bottom  of  the  trench.  It  would  be  vain  to  talk  of 
growing  salsify  extra  large,  for  the  fact  is,  it  is  never  large  enough, 
and  is,  therefore,  seldom  worth  having  unless  grown  with  especial 
attention  to  its  fullest  possible  development.  Be  liberal  with  it, 
therefore,  or  do  not  grow  it  at  all.  Prepare  the  ground  in  autumn, 
manuring  as  advised,  and  sow  in  April,  in  row7s  a  foot  apart  at  least. 


118  THE  FLOEAL   WOELD   AND   GAEDEN   GUIDE. 

If  the  ground  is  extra  strong  and  liberally  manured  at  the  bottom 
of  the  trench,  sow  in  rows  fifteen  inches  apart,  always  remembering 
that  you  cannot  grow  the  root  too  large.  Thin  to  nine  inches  or  a 
foot  when  large  enough.  Take  up  in  November,  and  store  in  dry 
earth  or  sand  ;  one  row  may  be  left  in  the  ground  to  furnish  a  dish 
of  spring  vegetable.  This  is  obtained  from  the  rising  flower-stems, 
which  are  to  be  cut  early  or  they  will  be  stringy,  and  cooked  in  the 
way  of  sea-kale.  The  proper  way  to  cook  salsify  roots  is  to  boil  them 
until  tender  in  a  very  small  quantity  of  milk,  and  then  mash  them 
and  fry  them  in  butter  with  salt  and  pepper.  But  it  may  be  cooked 
in  the  same  way  as  parsnips,  which,  you  will  remember,  should  be 
boiled  slowly  in  the  smallest  possible  quantity  of  water,  until  tbey 
are  almost  in  a  melting  condition.  If  boiled  fast  in  plenty  of  water, 
the  flavour  of  parsnips  and  salsify  is  all  washed  away,  and  lost  for 
ever. 

Scoezoneba   is   cultivated    as   salsify,   but,  being  a  stronger 
grower,  needs  rather  more  room.  S.  H. 


A  NOTE  ON  BEDDING  COLEUS. 

BY   AN  AMATETJB. 

;OLEUS  are  very  valuable  for  bedding  purposes,  but  they 
are  very  often  omitted  in  lists  of  bedding  plants,  chiefly 
because  many  are  under  the  impression  that  they  cannot 
be  kept  without  a  stove  to  preserve  them  during  winter. 
This  is  a  mistake,  for,  with  little  or  no  trouble,  they  may 
be  kept  in  an  ordinary  greenhouse  or  plant  pit.  The  way  that  I  should 
recommend  is  that  cuttings  be  taken  about  the  middle  of  August, 
and  inserted  closely  together  in  six-inch  pots  or  pans,  partly  filled 
with  crocks.  Use  a  compost  of  light  leaf-mould  and  loam,  with  a 
little  silver  sand.  Then  plunge  the  pots  into  a  slight  bottom-heat 
until  the  cuttings  are  well  rooted.  Erom  thence  transfer  them  to  a 
shelf  in  the  greenhouse,  keeping  them  in  a  temperature  of  about  40° 
to  45°,  and  the  atmosphere  as  dry  as  possible.  Water  them  about 
once  a  fortnight,  merely  to  keep  them  alive.  In  February,  put 
them  into  three-inch  pots,  when  they  will  soon  make  excellent 
plants.  The  sorts  best  suited  for  bedding  are,  Princess  of  Wales, 
VerscTiqffelti,  and  Emperor  Napoleon,  but  I  consider  Versclwffelti  is 
the  best. 

This  is  not,  perhaps,  the  most  seasonable  period  for  giving 
advice  for  wintering  Coleus,  but  I  have  called  attention  to  the 
matter  now,  so  that  those  who  like  them  can  buy  a  stock  now,  and 
enjoy  their  beauty  during  the  coming  summer,  and  also  have  plants 
for  furnishing  a  supply  of  cuttings  in  the  autumn.  A  rather  warm 
position  should  be  selected  for  planting  the  Coleus. 


THE  FLORAL   WORLD   AND   GARDEN   GUIDE. 


119 


NEW  PLANTS. 

CACIA  RICEANA  (Sot.  Mag.,  t.  5835).— This  is  by  far  the  most  beau- 
tiful of  the  Tasmanian  Acacias,  and  it  appears  to  be  confined  to  the 
southern  parts  of  that  island,  growing  like  a  weeping  willow  on  the 
banks  of  the  streams  that  fall  into  the  Derwent.  We  entirely  agree 
with  Dr.  Hooker,  that  "  It  is  remarkable  that  so  fine  a  greenhouse 
ornament  should  be  comparatively  rare  in  cultivation,  for  its  deep  green  perennial 
foliage,  its  long  whip-like  pendant  branches,  clothed  with  golden  flowers,  the  facility 
with  which  it  can  be  trained  over  columns  and  arches,  and  the  length  of  time 
during  which  it  remains  in 
flower,  render  it  one  of  the 
most  desirable  acquisitions 
for  a  conservatory."  At 
Floors  Castle,  a  glazed 
corridor,  fifty  feet  in 
length,  is  festooned  with 
a  single  plant,  and  when 
it  is  in  flower,  from  March 
onwards,  the  effect  is  in- 
describable. Flowering 
branches,  many  feet  in 
length,  and  a  mass  of  bloom, 
were  exhibited  before  the 
Royal  Horticultural  So- 
ciety on  the  15th  of  March 
last,  and  they  attracted  a 
considerable  share  of  atten- 
tion. Without  doubt,  it  is 
one  of  the  most  valuable 
plants  for  covering  pillars 
and  training  over  the  roof 
of  greenhouses  and  conser- 
vatories yet  introduced  to 
this  country.  Standard 
specimens  in  pots  would 
have  a  charming  appear- 
ance, intermixed  with  other 
spring- flowering     plants. 

Considering  the  great  value  of  this  acacia,  we  have  much  pleasure  in  recording 
the  fact  that  Messrs.  Hooper  and  Co.,  Central  Avenue,  Covent  Garden,  W.C.,  are 
offering  seeds  at  a  remarkably  cheap  rate.  Acacia  seed  can  be  readily  raised  in  an 
ordinary  greenhouse  with  but  little  trouble. 

Aphelandra  atjrantiaca  (Floral  Mag.,  t.  517). — A  magnificent  stove- 
plant,  with  superb  foliage,  and  large  heads  of  brilliant  crimson  and  orange-coloured 
flowers. 

Catalpa  syhinG-efolia  at/r,ea. — A  golden-leaved  variety  of  one  of  the  noblest 
garden  trees.  Messrs.  Cripps  and  Son,  of  Tunbridge  Wells,  have  lately  iutroduced 
this  interesting  novelty  to  cultivation,  and  it  well  deserves  the  attention  of  those 
who  appreciate  choice  trees.  This  variety  is  distinguished  by  the  rich  golden  hue  of 
its  leaves,  which  are  of  a  purer  and  deeper  shade  of  yellow  than  the  well-known 
Golden  Feather  pyrethrum.  When  it  attains  to  some  size  in  a  suitable  position,  it 
will,  we  have  no  doubt,  prove  to  be  one  of  the  most  distinct  and  beautiful  of  garden 
trees  in  cultivation. 

Cattleta  maxima  (Blast.  Sort.,  29).— A  magnificent  species  with  flowers  of  a 
delicate  rosy-mauve  tint.  Cattleya  maxima  is  a  native  of  the  forests  of  the  Rio 
Grande,  where  it  attains  to  gigantic  dimensions  and  makes  a  remarkable  display  of 
its  exquisitely-coloured  flowers. 

Godetia  Whitneti.— This  splendid  species  is  distinguished  by  its  dwarf  habit 
and  huge  flowers,  which  are  produced  at  the  summit  of  the  stems  and  branches  in 


acacia  fjceana. 


120 


THE  FLORAL   WORLD  AND   GARDEN   GUIDE. 


GODETIA   WHITNEYI. 


crowded  cluster?.     The  flowers  are  nearly  four  inches  across  when  fully  expanded  ; 
the  petals  blush-coloured,  marked  in    the  centre  with  a  handsome  crimson  stain 

varying  in  size,  but  very  con- 
spicuous, and  frequently  visible 
externally,  when  the  flower  is 
closed.  It  is  usually  erect  in 
growth,  rarely  exceeding  twelve 
inches  in  height,  but  occasion- 
ally it  assumes  a  much  dwarfer, 
almost  tabular,  form.  It  re- 
ceived the  award  of  a  First- 
class  Certificate  from  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Society,  when  ex- 
hibited last  autumn,  and  it  ex- 
cited a  very  large  amount  of 
attention  and  was  much  ad- 
mired. It  is,  without  doubt,  one 
of  the  most  valuable  annuals 
introduced  to  this  country  for 
several  years  past.  Like  many 
more  of  our  best  annuals,  it  is  a 
native  of  California.  For  the 
opportunity  of  figuring  this 
grand  acquisition,  we  are  in- 
debted to  Messrs.  Hooper  and 
Co.,  ofCoventGarden.  Theseed 
can  be  sown  in  a  cold  frame,  or 
in  the  open  ground,  and  trans- 
planted when  about  an  inch 
high,  in  the  same  way  as  other 
hardy  annuals.  The  plants 
should  be  put  about  nine  inches  or  a  foot  apart,  for  without  they  have  sufficient  space 
for  their  full  development,  much  of  their  beauty  and  effectiveness  will  be  lost. 

Leptosiphon  parviflorus  var.  rosaceus. — This  lovely  little  annual  closely 
resembles  in  habit  L.  aureus, 
but  the  flowers  are  larger 
and  of  a  rosy-red  hue.  It 
was  introduced  from  Cali- 
fornia, and  when  exhibited 
before  the  Eoyal  Horticul- 
tural and  Royal  Botanic  So- 
cieties in  June  last,  it  was 
awarded  a  First-class  Certifi- 
cate upon  each  occasion.  In 
growth  it  is  very  dwarf, 
ranging  from  three  to  six 
inches  in  height,  and  pro- 
duces its  flowers  in  terminal 
clusters.  Altogether  it  is 
a  most  valuable  acquisition, 
and  one  of  the  loveliest  dwarf 
annuals  known.  We  have 
to  thank  Messrs.  Hooper 
and  Co.  for  the  opportunity 
of  presenting  our  readers 
with  a  portrait  of  this  gem. 

Themistoclesia  coronilla  (Illust.  Hort.,  32). — An  elegant  ericaceous  plant 
with  red  flowers.  In  all  essential  particulars  it  is  a  vaccinium,  and  the  most 
valuable  acquisition  for  the  heath-house  and  cool  conservatory.  It  was  discovered 
by  M.  Linden,  in  1843,  in  New  Granada,  and  was  first  described  as  Ceralostema 
coronarktm.  It  is  extremely  neat  in  growth,  with  small  ovate-oblong  leaves  and 
bell-shaped  flowers  of  a  brilliant  vermilion  hue. 


leptosiphon  rosaceus. 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  121 


THE   GARDEN   GUIDE   FOR   APEIL. 

Flower  Garden. — The  planting  of  evergreens  should  be  com- 
pleted early  this  month.  Stakes  must  be  put  to  those  newly- 
planted  to  keep  them  firm,  and  prevent  their  being  loosened  with 
the  wind.  A  good  thick  mulch  over  the  roots  will  be  of  immense 
service.  Sow  seeds  of  biennials  and  perennials,  and  annuals  for 
late  blooming ;  thin  out  those  already  up,  and  transplant  or  throw 
away.  Finish  dividing  and  planting  herbaceous  plants.  Prepare  in 
readiness  the  beds  for  ordinaiy  "  bedding  stuff,"  dahlias,  etc.  Box, 
thrift,  Stachys  lanata,  and  other  plants  for  edgings,  may  be  planted 
early  in  the  month.  Walks  should  be  thoroughly  rolled  to  make 
them  firm  for  the  summer  ;  and  grass  plots  dressed,  to  give  every- 
thing an  air  of  neatness  and  order. 

Kitchen"  Garden". — Like  last  month,  an  unusual  amount  of 
forethought  and  activity  are  required  in  this  department  just  now. 
Old  stumps  of  winter  greens,  that  are  likely  to  produce  a  few  more 
gatherings,  should  be  taken  up,  and  laid  in  by  their  heels  in  some 
spare  corner,  and  the  ground  they  are  now  occupying  turned  up. 
Plant  out  cabbage  and  lettuce  raised  in  cold  frame.  Cauliflowers 
from  the  frames  should  be  planted  oat  the  first  week  of  this  month  ; 
sow  for  late  autumn  supplies.  Sow  for  main  crops,  beet,  broccoli, 
cabbage,  cardoons,  carrots,  celeriac,  celery  for  late  crop,  chicory, 
endive,  parsnips,  salsify,  scorzonera.  For  successional  crops — 
lettuce,  radishes,  cress,  mustard,  spinach,  turnips,  peas,  and  other 
vegetables  ;  plant  out  crops  from  the  seed  beds  when  large  euough. 
Keep  the  hoe  at  work  amongst  crops  of  all  kinds.  Earth  up  and 
stick  peas,  to  prevent  their  being  blown  about.  Seeds  of  sweet 
and  pot-herbs  that  still  remain  unsown  must  be  got  in  at  once. 
Those  sown  in  heat  should  be  pricked  off  into  small  pots  or  cold 
frame,  to  well  harden  off  before  planting  out.  Prepare  trenches 
for  celery,  and  put  at  least  six  inches  of  good  rotten  manure  in  the 
bottom,  and  just  cover  with  soil.  The  spaces  between  the  rows 
may  be  occupied  with  lettuces  and  radishes.  Get  in  all  crops  that 
ought  to  have  been  sown  last  month  as  early  as  possible,  for  every 
day  adds  to  the  risk  of  the  crops  coming  to  perfection.  All  salading, 
such  as  lettuce,  endive,  and  radishes,  must  have  rich  soil  after  this 
season,  otherwise  they  will  make  a  slow  growth,  and  of  little  value. 
Small  salading  is  of  little  service  through  the  summer,  unless  grown 
in  a  shady  position,  in  a  cold  frame,  or  under  handlights.  Potatoes 
in  heavy  cold  soils  must  now  be  planted.  Protect  early  kinds  now 
peeping  through  the  ground,  by  drawing  a  little  soil  over  them. 

Fruit  Garden". — All  pruning  ought  to  be  finished  before  this, 
with  the  exception  of  the  fig,  which  must  be  done  early  this  month. 
Continue  to  protect  peaches  and  nectarines  ;  care,  however,  must 
be  exercised,  so  that  the  young  growth  is  not  drawn  weak  and 
spindly  through  too  thick  a  covering.  If  blinds  of  tiffany  or  canvas 
are  used,  roll  them  up  during  the  day,  but  where  branches  of  fir 
or  fern  are  used,  about  half  the  quantity  should  now  be  taken  off. 
When  coddled  too  much,  the  young  shoots  suffer  considerably  when 


122  THE  FLORAL   WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 

fully  exposed.  Thin  out  apricots,  and  disbud;  but  proceed  cau- 
tiously and  gradually,  so  as  not  to  produce  too  great  a  check.  Lay 
long  litter  from  the  stable  between  the  strawberry  rows,  which  will 
serve  the  double  purpose  of  strengthening  the  plants  with  the  salts 
washed  out  of  it,  aud  at  the  same  time  keep  the  fruit  clean.  Eemove 
all  runners  that  are  not  wanted  for  layering ;  they  only  rob  the 
plants,  impoverish  the  soil,  and  take  up  more  time  in  clearing  them 
away  after  they  once  get  rooted  into  the  soil. 

Conservatory. — Very  little  fire-heat  must  be  used  here  now. 
Give  plenty  of  air  to  prevent  the  plants  drawing,  and  shade  during 
the  bright  sunshine,  to  enable  the  flowers  to  retain  freshness  as 
long  as  possible.  Plants  of  all  kinds  will  now  require  increased 
■  supplies  of  water  ;  those  in  flower  must  not  be  allowed  to  suffer  for 
the  want  of  this-  element,  or  the  flowers  will  soon  drop.  Sow 
primulas  and  cinerarias  for  early  bloom,  and  place  the  seed-pans  in 
a  shady  corner  until  the  plants  are  up.  Cytisus  should  be  pruned 
into  shape  immediately  they  go  out  of  flower,  and  directly  they 
break,  repotted.  Autumn-struck  and  old  plants  of  fuchsias  will 
require  shifting  into  larger  pots ;  cuttings  put  in  in  March  will  now 
want  potting  off.  Keep  the  whole  of  the  plants  in  a  brisk  growing 
temperature,  well  syringed  and  pinched,  as  required.  Eemove 
cinerarias  going  out  of  bloom,  if  offsets  are  required,  into  a  cold 
frame,  and  keep  them  properly  watered,  when  they  will  soon  begin 
to  start.  Verbenas  and  petunias  struck  now,  and  grown  on,  will  be 
useful  for  flowering  in  the  autumn.  Pot  hard-wooded  plants  that 
require  a  shift,  and  harden  off  those  that  have  finished  their  growth, 
preparatory  to  going  out  of  doors  for  the  summer. 

Stove. — Cut  down  begonias  that  are  out  of  flower,  and  repot. 
Shift  on  the  ornamental-leaved  kinds.  Achimenes  and  gloxinias, 
repot  before  they  get  pot-bound.  Keep  the  former  near  the  glass, 
to  prevent  them  drawing.  Continue  to  shift  orchids  that  require 
repotting,  and  divide  those,  the  stock  of  which  it  is  desired  to 
increase.  Maintain  a  thoroughly  moist  atmosphere  by  throwing 
plenty  of  water  on  the  floor,  but  avoid  syringing  them  for  the 
present.  Shut  up  early,  and  use  as  little  fire-heat  as  possible. 
Train  specimen  plants  of  a  climbing  habit,  such  as  'Stephanotis,  as 
fast  as  they  make  new  growth,  to  prevent  their  getting  out  of 
form.  All  the  plants  that  require  a  shift  must  have  it  at  once, 
as  better  growth  will  be  made  in  the  fresh  soil  than  in  that  which  is 
now  worn  out. 

Forcing. — Cucumbers  and  melons  must  be  carefully  handled 
just  now.  Hang  mats  or  canvas  over  the  openings  during  the 
prevalence  of  north  or  east  winds.  Shut  up  early  in  the  day,  and 
give  the  foliage  a  moderate  syringing  before  doing  so.  See  that  the 
bed  is  a  proper  degree  of  moisture  throughout  its  depth,  and  if  it 
requires  watering,  use  water  at  a  temperature  of  75°.  Where  the 
bottom-heat  is  supplied  entirely  by  fire-heat,  particular  attention 
must  be  paid  to  this  point  in  their  culture.  Pay  frequent  attention 
to  stopping,  training,  and  regulating  the  shoots.  Fertilize  the 
female  flowers  of  the  melon.  The  temperature  of  the  various 
vineries  must  be  gradually  increased  as  the  days  lengthen,  and  the 


THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND   GARDEN   GUIDE.  123 

sun  gains  power.  As  the  fruit  of  the  figs  hegins  to  swell,  increase 
the  moisture  and  heat.  Peaches  and  nectarines  will  now  be  making 
considerable  progress.  The  night  temperature  should  now  range 
about  60°  or  65°,  with  arise  of  ten  degrees  during  the  day.  Disbud, 
tie  in  the  shoots,  and  thin  the  fruit,  as  may  be  necessary.  The  last 
operation  must  be  performed  with  a  sparing  hand,  as  the  stoning 
process  is  a  critical  time  for  these  fruits  to  go  through.  Syringe 
twice  a  day,  and  keep  the  borders  properly  watered. 

Pits  and  Pkahes. — Auriculas  will  now  require  more  water; 
shade  from  strong  sunshine.  Turn  out  the  whole  of  the  bedding 
plants  into  cradles,  where  they  can  be  protected  with  mats,  if  the 
frames  are  required  for  other  purposes  ;  if  not,  draw  off  the  lights, 
except  during  frosts.  Herbs,  tomatoes,  vegetable  marrows,  etc., 
must  receive  full  exposure  to  the  external  air,  to  enable  them  to  go 
out  sturdy  and  strong.  Prepare  the  frames  for  growing  summer 
cucumbers,  melons,  and  chilies.  Plants  requiring  to  be  grown  on 
briskly  should  be  shut  up  early,  and  have  a  skiff  with  the  syringe 
before  the  lights  are  shut  down  for  the  night. 


HORTICULTURAL  NOTES. 


[HE  occurrences  most  worthy  of  note  during  the  last  two 
months  have  been  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society's 
Exhibition  of  Lycastes  and  Chinese  Primulas  on  the 
3rd  of  February  ;  of  Camellias,  Lilies  of  the  Valley,  and 
Plowering  Shrubs,  on  March  1 ;  and  the  exhibition  of 
Hyacinths  and  other  spring-flowering  plants,  on  March  15 ;  and 
the  Royal  Botanic  Society's  Hyacinth  Show,  March  22nd  and  23rd. 
I  will  not  weary  my  readers  with  full  details  of  the  several  exhibitions, 
but  content  myself  with  mentioning  the  most  important  features, 
and  a  brief  notice  of  the  most  valuable  of  the  new  flowers  and  plants 
brought  forward. 

At  the  first  of  the  Kensington  meetings,  the  first  prize  for 
Chinese  Primulas  was  most  deservedly  awarded  to  Mr.  Goddard, 
gardener  to  H.  Little,  Esq.,  Cambridge  Park,  Twickenham,  for  the 
whole  of  the  plants  in  the  collection  were  marvels  of  cultural  skill. 
They  were  not,  perhaps,  remarkable  for  size,  but  they  were  so  neat 
and  healthy,  and  had  such  magnificent  trusses  of  bloom,  that  one 
could  hardly  hope  for  anything  better.  Mr.  Goddard  also  exhibited 
a  superb  group  at  Regent's  Park,  on  the  22nd  and  23rd  of  last 
month,  and  again  occupied  the  foremost  position  on  the  prize-list. 
It  is  worthy  of  remark  that  the  plants  were  not  only  well  grown 
and  superbly  flowered,  but  the  flowers  were  of  the  finest  quality. 
Considering  that  plants  with  pale-coloured,  or  flimsy,  ill-shaped 
blooms  require  just  as  much  attention  and  house-room  as  those 
having  the  finest  flowers,  it  appears  remarkable  that  they  are  so 
frequently  met  with.  Mr.  Goddard,  of  course,  saves  his  own  seed, 
and  there  is  no  valid  reason  why  other  private  growers  should  not 


124  THE    FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

do  the  same,  and  make  sure  of  what  they  are  growing.  Good  seed 
Is,  however,  plentiful  in  the  trade,  but  it  cannot  be  sold,  without 
loss,  at  sixpence  or  a  shilling  per  packet.  At  the  same  meeting, 
Mr.  Tomkins,  of  the  Sparkhill  Nurseries,  Birmingham,  exhibited 
a  group  of  Primula  Princess  Louise,  a  grand  new  white-flowered 
variety,  with  flowers  of  an  immense  size,  superb  form,  very  wax-like 
in  texture,  with  age  the  flowers  changing  to  a  delicate  blush.  This 
was  awarded  a  first-class  certificate — an  honour  to  which  it  was 
justly  entitled.  Gastronema  flammea,  a  pretty  bulbous  plant,  with 
orange-red  flowers,  not  unlike  those  of  the  useful  Vallota  purpurea, 
to  which  the  plant  is  closely  allied,  from  Mr.  Bull,  of  Chelsea,  also 
received  a  similar  award. 

Dessert  apples  and  pears  were  shown  in  capital  condition  and 
considerable  quantities.  It  appears  unjust  to  omit  mention  of  the 
names  of  the  exhibitors  of  the  most  meritorious  fruit,  but  all  that 
can  be  done  here  is  to  give  the  names  of  the  varieties  in  the  best 
state  of  preservation.  Of  the  apples,  the  best  were  Cox's  Orange 
Pippin,  Cornish  Gilliflower,  Ribston  Pippin,  and  Beinette  du 
Canada ;  and,  amongst  pears,  the  best  were  Bergamot  d'Esperen, 
Winter  Nelis,  Easter  Beurre,  Beurre  Bance,  and  Knight's  Monarch 
— all  first-rate  sorts. 

At  the  Camellia  Show  on  the  1st  of  March  several  stands  of 
very  fine  blooms  were  staged,  but  they  contained  nothing  new,  the 
leading  sorts  being  the  old  Double  White,  Cup  of  Beauty,  Con- 
spicua,  Imbricata,  Chandleri  elegans,  Kelvingtonia,  Monarch, 
Eximea,  Saccoi  Nova,  Yariegata,  Antica,  and  Countess  of  Orkney. 
Lilies  of  the  Valley  were  contributed  in  superb  condition,  but  by  far 
the  best  were  the  specimens  exhibited  by  Mr.  Howard,  gardener  to 
J.  Brand,  Esq.,  Bedford  Hill,  Balham,  who,  for  many  years  past, 
has  occupied  the  first  place  with  these  beautiful  flowers.  Eirst-class 
certificates  were,  at  the  same  meeting,  conferred  upon  Pelargonium 
Mr.  Mutter,  a  grand  golden  zonal  variety,  which,  for  brilliancy  of 
colour,  vigorous  constitution,  and  perfection  of  form,  is  unsur- 
passed ;  also  upon  Odonloglossum  retusum-latro,  a  wonderfully 
distinct  kind,  with  brilliant  orange  scarlet  flowers ;  to  a  New  Eern, 
from  Mr.  Denning,  gardener  to  Lord  Londesborough,  Tadcaster ; 
and  upon  Masdevallia  elepltanceptis,  exhibited  by  Mr.  Pilcher, 
gardener  to  S.  Pucker,  Esq.,  AVandsworth. 

The  Hyacinth  show  on  March  15  was  the  most  important  event 
we  shall  have  to  chronicle.  The  number  of  exhibitors  was  not 
large,  but  those  who  did  exhibit  acquitted  themselves  well,  and  the 
extra  collections  staged  by  Messrs.  Veitch  and  Sons,  of  Chelsea,  and 
Mr.  W.  Paul,  cf  Waltham  Cross,  were  so  large  and  so  fine  in 
quality,  that  the  exhibition  was  one  of,  if  not  the  best  displays  of 
Hyacinths  and  other  bulbous  plants  yet  held  at  South  Kensington. 
All  the  first  prizes  for  Hyacinths,  with  one  exception  only,  were 
carried  off  by  Messrs.  Veitch  and  Sons,  although  it  was  the  first 
occasion  upon  which  they  have  exhibited  these  flowers.  In  the 
class  for  eighteen  white-flowered  varieties  they  had  superbly-finished 
examples  of  Madame  Van  der  Hoop,  LaCandeur,  Alba  Superbissima, 
Baroness  Van  der  Duin,   Grand  Vainqueur,  Orondates,  Snowball, 


THE    FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE.  125 

Leviathan,  Madame  de  Stael,  Paix  de  l'Europe,  Queen  of  the 
Netherlands,  La  Grandesse,  Prince  of  Waterloo,  Mont  Blanc, 
Grandeur  a  Merveille,  L'Innocence,  Alba  Maxima,  and  Lord 
Shaftesbury ;  and  in  the  class  for  eighteen  varieties  of  any  colour 
they  staged  Haydn,  Macaulay,  Leviathan,  Grand  Lilas,  Garibaldi, 
La  Grandesse,  L'Innocence,  King  of  the  Blues,  Koh-i-noor,  Alba 
Maxima,  General  Havelock,  FeruckKkan,  La  Grande  Resseinblance, 
Charles  Dickens,  Ida,  Laurens  Koster,  and  Blondin,  which  are  the- 
best  varieties  in  the  several  classes.  Several  new  varieties  were 
staged,  but,  as  shown,  they  did  not  surpass,  and  in  several  instances 
did  not  equal,  varieties  already  in  cultivation,  and  obtainable,  at  a 
cheap  rate.  The  names  and  colours  are  as  follows  : — Robert  Lowe, 
pale  yellow  ;  Lord  Derby,  dark  purple  ;  Marquis  of  Lome,  mauve  ; 
George  Peabody,  bright  carmine-red ;  W.  M.  Thackeray,  deep 
maroon-crimson;  Lilacina,  very  light  lilac ;  Princess  Louise,  single 
white  ;  and  Princess  Louise,  double  carmine-pink. 

Tulips  were  also  fine ;  the  best  and  most  distinct  in  the  com- 
petitive groups  were  : — Pabiola,  Rose  Aplatis,  Yermilion  Brilliant; 
White  Pottebakker,  Proserpine,  Keizer  Kroon,  Jaght  van  Rotter- 
dam, Due  dAremberg,  and  Joost  van  Vondel,  all  thoroughly  good 
and  useful  sorts. 

A  magnificent  collection  of  roses,  in  medium  sized  pots,  was 
shown  by  Messrs.  Veitch,  and  a  group  of  Marquise  de  Castellane,  a 
continental  variety  introduced  in  1870.  This  was  exhibited  by  Mr. 
Bennett,  of  Salisbury,  and  was  deservedly  awarded  a  first-class  cer- 
tificate.    There  can  be  no  doubt  of  its  being  a  first-rate  pot  rose. 

The  following  new  plants  received  certificates,  namely,  Cyclamen 
persicum  Snowjiake,  from  Mr.  Goddard  ;  Amaryllis  Chelsoni,  a  superb 
variety,  with  large  crimson  flowers  of  fine  form ;  Primula  JBoviana, 
one  of  the  varieties  of  the  Abyssinian  Cowslip,  with  pretty  yellow 
flowers,  from  Messrs.  Veitch  ;  Davallia  clavata,  a  pretty  little  fern, 
from  Messrs.  Rollisson  and  Son,  Tooting;  and  Areca  reyalis,  a 
noble-growing  fern,  with  beautiful  pinnate  fronds. 

To  each  of  the  meetings  fine  collections  of  Orchids  were  contri- 
buted by  Mr.  Denning  and  Messrs.  Rollisson ;  of  Stove  and  Green- 
house Plants  by  Mr.  B.  S.  Williams,  Upper  Holloway  ;  and  of  Hardy 
Herbaceous  Plants  by  Mr.  T.  S.  Ware,  Hale  Farm  Nurseries,  Tot- 
tenham. I  should  like  to  speak  more  fully  than  space  will  permit 
of  the  lovely  plants  staged  by  the  last-mentioned  exhibitor.  The 
collections  consisted  exclusively  of  hardy-growing  plants  of  moderate 
size,  and  they  were  much  admired,  especially  by  the  lady  visitors. 
One  of  the  most  remarkable  of  the  exhibits  at  the  last  meeting  was 
the  fine  Brown  Cos  Lettuce  and  Green  Curled  Endive  exhibited  by 
Mr.  Benjamin  Looker,  TNorbitou  Potteries,  Kingston-on-Thames, 
which  had  been  grown  in  the  "  Acme  "  frame,  of  which  he  is  the  in- 
ventor, without  any  further  protection  than  that  afforded  by  the 
glass.  The  endive  was  good,  but  the  lettuces,  considering  the  winter 
we  have  had,  were  wonderfully  fine,  for  they  were  of  considerable 
size,  very  crisp,  and  had  nice  white  hearts.  I  can  fully  vouch  for 
the  fact  that  both  lettuce  and  endive  were  grown  in  the  "  Acme  " 
frame,  a3  stated,  for  I  saw  them  growing  in  Mr.  Looker's  garden 


126  THE  FLORAL   WORLD   AND   GARDEN    GUIDE. 

some  time  before  they  were  exhibited.  One  of  the  smaller-sized 
frames  was,  in  the  early  part  of  the  winter,  put  over  a  portion  of  a 
double  row  of  lettuce  that  had  been  planted  out  in  the  ordinary  way, 
and  the  difference  between  those  under  cover  and  those  unprotected 
was  certainly  remarkable,  for,  with  the  exception  of  a  little  speck  of 
green  here  and  there,  all  the  plants  that  had  been  exposed  to  the 
weather  were  dead,  whilst  those  in  the  frame  were  as  fresh  and  as 
green  as  they  usually  are  in  the  summer,  although  not  so  large.  At 
the  retail  price  charged  for  lettuce  during  the  last  two  months  those 
in  the  frame  were  worth  at  least  sixpence  each,  and  would  have 
nearly  paid  for  the  cost  of  the  frame. 

The  exhibition  of  the  Royal  Botanic  Society  was  also  remarkably 
good,  but  as  the  exhibitors  and  subjects  were  chiefly  the  same  as 
those  at  Kensington  the  week  before,  it  is  not  desirable  to  enter  into 
details.  The  cyclamens  were  unusually  fine,  and  the  first  prize 
for  a  collection  was  taken  by  Mr.  James,  gardener  to  "W.  F.  Watson, 
Esq.,  Redlees,  Isleworth,  with  specimens  that  have,  probably,  not 
been  surpassed,  either  as  regards  the  size  of  the  plants  or  the  high 
quality  of  the  flowers.  Mr.  James  also  carried  off  the  first  prize  for 
Cinerarias  with  handsome  specimens.  G:  Gr. 


Potatoes. — In  a  valuable  article  on  tlie  growth  of  the  potato  in  tlie  January 
number  of  the  Floral  "World,  I  see  the  almost  universally  received  statement 
made  "  that  the  potato  is  a  very  exhaustive  crop."  When  I  was  rector  of  Llan- 
dough,  near  Cowbridge,  Glamorgan,  I  observed  that  an  old  parishioner,  named 
Thomas  Jones,  grew  his  potatoes  in  the  same  plot  of  ground  for  several  consecutive 
years,  and  on  asking  him  how  long  he  had  done  so,  he  said,  ever  since  he 
came  to  the  cottage,  which  was  fourteen  years  before,  that  he  had  quite  as 
good  crops  as  at  first ;  that  he  had  little  besides  road-scrapings  for  manure. 
Since  I  came  to  this  parish,  I  have  discovered  a  still  more  extraordinary  case  : 
An  elderly  woman,  named  Elizabeth  Matthews,  whose  word  I  can  perfectly 
rely  on,  assures  me  that  she,  and  her  mother  before  her,  whom  I  knew  very  well, 
have  grown  potatoes  in  the  same  piece  of  garden  ground,  and  on  the  same  spot  for 
upwards  of  sixty  years,  and  she  finds  no  diminution  or  deterioration  of  the  crop. 
She  has  nothing  but  coal-ashes  from  her  cottage  for  manure,  on  which  she  throws 
all  the  soapsuds  when  she  washes.  The  soil  is  a  very  sandy  loam.  Thinking  this 
might  interest  some  of  your  readers,  I  venture  to  trouble  you  with  it. 

Hector  of  Nustox,  Nottage.  E.  Doddridge  Knight. 

A  Note  on  the  Winter. — On  Christmas-morning,  9  a.m.,  my  minimum 
(Negretti)  thermometer  indicated  a  temperature  of  5',  and  the  lowest  registered 
during  the  night  was  l-50.  The  thermometer  was  placed  on  a  stand  fully  exposed 
to  the  sky,  and  four  feet  from  the  ground .  I  knew  this  will  be  doubted,  but  I  at 
once  got  out  some  other  superior  thermometers,  and  they  all  registered  within  one 
degree  of  each  other.  About  a  dozen  yards  from  this  stand,  under  a  north  wall, 
planted  in  a  peat-bed  were  some  camellias.  They  have  been  there  two  winters. 
Not  a  bud  has  been  injured  upon  them,  although  a  few  of  the  top  leaves  look  a  little 
brown.  Last  year  the  first  bloom  opened  on  the  15th  of  March.  A  plant  of  Hedera 
Regneriana,  near  them,  is  quite  spoilt  in  foliage.  On  a  raised  dry  rockwork,  with 
a  south  aspect,  Opuntia  Retinesquiana  appears  quite  uninjured,  that  also  stood  out 
last  winter.  Chamcerops  Fortunei,  on  the  lawn,  is  quite  dead  ;  it  was  only  a  five 
year  old  plant.  As  I  could  not  risk  (on  account  of  the  situation  it  occupied)  a  plot 
of  Arelia  Sieboldi,  I  put  a  mat  over  it  during  the  severe  frost,  and  it  is  now  ex- 
posed again,  and  quite  uninjured.  I  have  left  Melianthus,  Cannas,  etc.,  under  heaps 
of  clinker,  and  will,  if  it  interests  you,  write  on  the  return  of  spring,  a  report  of 
their  condition.  I  expect  they  are  dead.  I  find  Odontoglossum  uro  Skinneri  is  as 
hardy  as  Cypripedium  insigne.  Both  were  last  winter  in  a  greenhouse  very  often 
down  to  35'  and  yet  bloomed  well. 

Near  London.  F.  H. 


THE  FLORAL   WORLD   AND   GARDEN   GUIDE.  127 


NOTICES  TO  CORRESPONDENTS. 

An  Old  Subscriber. — Salo}). — Seed  of  the  second  plant  on  your  list  is  not,  so 
far  as  we  are  aware,  plentiful  in  the  trade.  See  answer  to  Mr.  Cooper  in  the  March 
number  at  page  95.  With  respect  to  the  other  matter,  write  to  Mr.  Cann2ll, 
Woolwich. 

C.  M. — We  do  not  know  of  any  firm  who  devote  especial  attention  to  the  subjects 
mentioned  in  your  letter,  or  wa  should  have  been  glad  to  have  assisted  you. 

Kainit  and  Superphosphate. —  G.  K.,  Parrickmacross,  Ireland.— -Mix.  in 
equal  proportions,  and  apply  at  the  rate  of  7  cwt.  per  acre.  The  letter  was  too  late 
tb  admit  of  its  being  answered  last  month,  and  we  cannot  make  any  exceptions  to 
our  rule  of  not  answering  correspondents  privately. 

Potatoes  on  Tiles. — Clericus  Hortensis. — The  method  of  growing  potatoes 
is  fully  explained  in  the  Floral  World  for  February  1869.  We  regret  the  answer 
was  accidentally  omitted  from  last  month's  number. 

Tan. —  G.  K.  P.,  Worcester. — Tanners'  bark  may  be  employed  for  making  hot- 
beds for  the  cultivation  of  cucumbers  during  the  summer,  but  it  must  have  the  aid 
of  a  few  boards  round  the  outside  of  the  bed  to  keep  it  up.  It  would  be  a  good 
plan  to  have  the  bed  partly  below  aud  partly  above  the  surface.  Take  out  the  soil 
to  a  depth  of  two  feet,  and  the  same  size  as  the  frame.  Then  drive  in  four  stout 
stakes,  one  at  each  corner,  to  support  the  frame  at  a  height  of  about  two  feet 
above  the  level.  Nail  rather  stout  boards  to  the  uprights,  and  as  soon  as  the  frame- 
work is  completed,  the  tan  can  be  put  in  and  the  frame  put  upon  the  uprights.  Tread 
the  tan  firmly,  and  allow  a  few  days  for  it  to  settle  before  putting  on  the  soil.  After 
the  frame  is  in  position,  a  few  barrowfuls  of  tan,  sufficient  to  reach  from  six  to 
twelve  inches  above  the  lower  edge  of  the  wood,  should  be  added. 

Propagating  Cases. — S.  F.  S.  8.,  Dublin. — Miss  Maling's  plant  case  is  manu- 
factured by  Mr.  Gray,  Horticultural  Works,  Danvers  Street,  Chelsea,  London.  We 
figured  and  described  an  excellent  case  in  the  Floral  Would  for  August,  1870, 
which  is  manufactured  by  Messrs.  Barr  and  Sugden,  12,  King  Street,  Covent 
Garden,  W.C. 

Date  of  Show. —  TV.  Brown,  Carmarthen. — The  first  or  second  week  in  August 
would  be  suitable  for  holding  a  horticultural  exhibition  principally  supported  by 
amateur  growers.     No  matter  what  the  date  of  the  exhibition  may  be,  it  will  be 
too  early  for  some  of  the  exhibitors,  and  too  late  for  others. 
Name  of  Fern. — D.  M. — Adiantum  iEthiopicum. 

Destroying  Cockroaches,  Crickets,  and  Woodlice. — An  esteemed  cor- 
respondent, resident  at  Halifax,  sends  the  following  particulars  respecting  these 
pests.  He  says,  "  Between  three  and  four  years  ago  I  entered  the  house  I  am  now 
residing  in,  which  was  then  quite  new.  A  short  time  after  we  took  possession,  the 
cockroaches  made  their  appearance,  and  were  soon  followed  by  crickets,  which 
I  thoroughly  detest.  We  at  once  took  measures  for  their  extirpation,  and  happen- 
ing to  hit  upon  the  right  method,  we  did  not  have  so  much  trouble  as  we  antici- 
pated. We  commenced  by  putting  down  a  few  white  shallow  pots,  such  as  are 
used  for  potted  fish  and  meats,  and  then  half-filled  them  with  water  and  treacle. 
This  mixture  settled  the  cockroaches,  but  the  crickets  skimmed  about  on  the  surface 
like  so  many  water-spiders.  Treacle  alone  was  then  employed,  which  held  them 
fast  enough.  The  whole  surface  was  covered,  and  then  we  turned  up  the  pots,  and 
brushed  them  into  a  vessel  of  boiling  hot  water.  As  a  rule,  we  emptied  them  every 
morning.  The  same  plan  was  also  tried  with  woodlice,  and,  I  am  happy  to  say, 
with  the  moet  satisfactory  results.  We  have  now  completely  cleared  the  house  of 
every  one  of  these  pests,  and  the  trouble  has  been  so  small,  that  really  it  is  not 
worth  mentioning.  Treacle  is  known  in  some  parts  of  the  country  as  molasses, 
and  the  ordinary  price  is  from  two  to  three  pence  per  pound.  I  feel  assured  that  if 
those  who  are  bothered  with  either  or  all  of  these  pests  adopt  the  method  here 
described,  they  will  not  regret  having  done  so." 

Begonia  fuchsioides  for  Flowering  in  Autumn. — John  Harris. — Most 
certainly  this  fine  begonia  can  be  flowered  in  the  autumn.  Several  years  since,  we 
used  to  have  it  very  fine  in  the  autumn  months,  and  always  managed  it  as  fol- 
lows : — cuttings  were  put  in  in  April,  and  grown  on  liberally  all  the  summer  in  the 
stove,  and  kept  moving  all  the  next  winter,  and  the  following  spring  until  June, 


128  THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 

when,  if  they  had  gone  on  well,  they  were  in  12-sized  pots,  and  fine  pyramids  six 
feet  high,  well  furnished  with  branches  from  the  pot  upward.  The  first  week  in 
June  they  were  set  in  a  corner  where  they  were  sheltered  from  the  sun  and  wind  on 
the  south  and  west  by  a  nine-foot  wall,  and  from  the  north  and  east  by  a  thick 
shrubbery.  Here  they  remained  till  the  first  week  in  August,  when  they  were  set 
in  the  greenhouse,  with  gloxinias,  acbimenes,  cockscombs,  and  other  thiDgs.  In  this 
situation  they  began  to  show  flower  immediately,  and  before  the  end  of  the  month 
they  were  one  mass  of  bloom,  and  so  remained  until  the  beginning  or  middle  of 
October,  when  they  were  thrown  away,  as  others  were  coming  on  for  the  next 
season.  We  attributed  their  abundant  flowering  to  the  partial  rest  they  obtained 
the  two  months  they  were  out-of-doors,  and  the  sudden  excitement  caused  by  being 
placed  in  a  large  airy  greenhouse,  under  the  grateful  shade  of  vines,  which  par- 
tially covered  the  roof. 

Hardy  Spring-flowering  Plants  in  the  Parterre. —  W.  8.  B. — Prepare 
a  piece  of  open  ground,  rather  sandy  if  possible,  and  this  should  be  your  nursery. 
On  this  ground  plant  out  the  various  subjects,  whether  raised  from  seeds  or  cuttings, 
clear  the  beds  of  the  geraniums,  verbenas,  etc.,  as  soon  as  they  begin  to  decline  in 
autumn,  say  early  in  October,  and  then  transfer,  by  simple  transplanting,  the  her- 
baceous plants  from  the  nursery  piece  to  the  parterre,  and  so  arrange  them  that 
their  colours  in  spring  will  make  a  tasteful  display.  When  they  have  dene  bloom- 
ing, say  in  the  middle  of  May,  take  them  up  and  plant  them  again  in  the  reserve 
ground,  and  so  on  from  year  to  year,  taking  care  occasionally  to  get  up  fresh  stocks 
from  seeds  and  cuttings,  that  the  old  plants  may  be  destroyed.  As  for  subjects,  the 
best  are  to  be  found  in  such  genera  as  Iberis,  Arabis,  Alyssum,  Cheiranthus,  Sapo- 
naria,  Phlox  (alpinus  section),  Myosotis,  and  Primula. 

Renovating  Old  Lawn. — A  Country  Curate. — In  sowing  grass-seeds  to  mend 
an  old  lawn,  the  best  mode  of  procedure  is  to  have  the  bare  places  dug  over  and 
enriched  with  good  rotten  manure,  and  all  the  stones  and  lumps  raked  off  pre- 
paratory to  sowing.  Then  sprinkle  the  seed  pretty  thick,  and  cover  with  fine 
earth.  It  is  a  good  plan,  when  the  job  is  only  a  small  one,  to  sift  the  earth  over 
the  seed  ;  but  when  there  is  a  large  space  to  be  operated  on,  the  workmen  have  a 
few  good  heaps  of  fine  soil,  and  throw  it  with  the  spade.  In  a  majority  of  cases 
old  lawns  may  be  revived  by  simply  sprinkling  with  nitrate  of  soda  two  or  three 
times  in  the  season.  The  best  proportion  in  which  to  apply  it  is  at  the  rate  of  31bs. 
to  one  square  rod.  Lawns  that  were  patchy  and  sour  have  with  this  dressing 
become  soft  and  springy  with  the  abundance  of  fibre  produced,  and  the  sward 
acquired  a  beautiful  freshness  and  closeness  of  growth.  Until  we  had  used  this 
large  quantity,  and  patiently  waited  for  the  result,  we  advised  the  use  of  only  lib. 
per  square  rod ;  and  that  we  can  say  is  enough  to  work  wonders,  but  the  dose 
should  be  repeated  at  least  twice— say  three  dressings  in  all,  in  April,  May,  and 
June.  On  some  lawns  there  is  plenty  of  grass  and  no  clover,  and  during  very  hot 
dry  weather  such  lawns  become  burnt  and  unsightly,  whereas  clover  does  not  quickly 
burn.  To  promote  the  growth  of  clover,  any  of  the  salts  of  lime  may  be  used. 
Even  sittings  of  lime  core  from  the  builders  will  be  good  as  a  top-dressing,  hut  a 
quicker  result  may  be  obtained  by  the  use  of  superphosphate  of  lime  in  the  same 
proportions  as  we  recommend  the  use  of  nitrate  of  soda  ;  that  is,  from  lib.  to  31bs. 
per  square  rod,  according  to  the  state  of  things  to  be  remedied. 

Basket  Plants. — B.  S.  IT. — The  easiest  and  most  effective  basket  plants  are 
easily  discovered.  All  the  trailing  Tropa^olums,  and  especially  those  of  the  Lob- 
bianum  race,  are  suitable.  Campanula  garganica  makes  a  beautiful  blue  fringe  on 
the  edge  of  a  basket.  Pilogyne  suavis  and  Mikania  scandens  make  elegant  green 
wreaths  four  or  five  feet  long.  Thunbergia  alata  is  peculiar  as  well  as  elega  n. 
There  is  nothing  else  like  it  either  in  style  or  colour.  Then  there  are  the  ivy-leaved 
geraniums,  and  the  pretty  variegated  geranium  called  Manglesii,  with  petunias, 
verbenas,  and  Lobelia  erinus,  all  suitable  for  baskets. 

Heating  Small  Greenhouse.— IT.  F.—A  small  conical  boiler,  and  pipes  of 
two  or  three  inches  diameter,  would  produce  the  kind  of  heat  you  want.  The  boiler 
would  have  to  be  outside,  and  coke  would  be  the  proper  fuel.  The  fact  is,  these 
small  houses  cannot  be  heated  satisfactorily  ;  and  when  correspondents  expect  us  to 
settle  the  matter  in  a  word  like  magic,  they  expect  an  impossibility.  Nor  can  we 
advise  you  about  the  height  and  pitch  of  your  house.  If  you  wish  to  grow  great 
plants,  have  the  roof  high  enough  for  them  ;  if  little  plants,  have  it  high  enough 
for  yourself. 


CLEMATIS     STAR     OF     I 


THE    FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  129 

HYBKID  CLEMATIS. 

(  With  Coloured  Plate  of  Cripps'  "  Star  of  India.") 

|HOUGH  many  times  mentioned,  described,  and  eulogized 
in  the  Flobal  World,  the  new  Hybrid  Clematis  may 
fairly  allege  against  us  that  they  have  not  yet  had  wbat 
the  world  would  call  their  "  meed  of  praise."  It  is 
greatly  to  be  feared  they  cannot  have  it  now,  though  the 
publication  of  a  figure  of  a  fair  sample  of  the  race  affords  the  oppor- 
tunity, and  the  subject  is  peculiarly  seasonable.  The  hybrid  clematis 
are  indeed  equally  interesting,  useful,  and  beautiful,  and  it  is  one 
part  of  the  debt  we  owe  to  them  to  say  that  in  absolute  merit  they 
far  exceed  our  powers  of  eulogy.  It  is  a  most  curious  circumstance 
that  this  new  race  of  plants  should  come  upon  us,  as  it  were,  with  a 
rush.  Nobody  expected  them,  nobody  wanted  them ;  very  few  prac- 
tical florists  would  have  conceded  the  possibility  of  their  production ; 
and  now  that  the  race  comprises  scores  of  magnificent  varieties,  it  is 
almost  past  belief  that  they  exist  at  all,  so  splendid  are  tbey  as  com- 
pared with  the  parent  plants  from  which  they  have  been  derived  by 
systematic  crossing. 

Premising  that  these  plants  produce  a  long  succession  and  a  great 
profusion  of  large  handsome  flowers,  varying  considerably  in  colours, 
but  in  every  case  extremely  beautiful ;  and  the  next  most  important 
of  their  characters  is  hardiness,  for  they  need  no  protection  under 
glass,  but  may  take  their  place  in  the  flower-garden  and  remain  there 
to  illustrate  in  an  agreeable  manner  the  hackneyed  phrase,  "  beauti- 
ful for  ever."  But  where  is  their  place  in  the  flower-garden  ? 
Strange  to  say  it  is  in  a  certain  sense  everywhere,  for  most  versatile 
are  their  talents,  if  we  may  so  speak  of  them.  They  may  be  trained 
to  walls  and  trellises  to  make  glorious  sheets  of  leaf  and  flower. 
They  may  be  allowed  to  fringe  the  overhanging  brow  of  a  rockery  ; 
cover  a  gaunt  sunny  bank  with  a  drapery  of  startling  magnificence  ; 
or  furnish  in  the  fashion  of  bedding  plants  large  compartments  on 
the  lawn,  and  in  the  wilderness  where  an  even  growth  and  sumptuous 
flowers  are  indispensable.  The  fact  is  their  thread-like  shoots  can  be 
trained  up  or  down,  or  on  a  dead  level.  Many  a  lover  of  flowers  who 
has  seen  a  grand  Pleroma  at  a  flower  show,  and  sighed  to  enjoy  the 
ownership  of  such  a  treasure,  may  now  be  at  peace  and  cease  to  envy 
the  wealthy.  The  hybrid  clematis  make  glorious  specimen  plants 
for  the  conservatory,  and  no  Pleroma  or  Franciscea  can  surpass 
them — perhaps  cannot  equal  them — when  the  best  varieties  are 
managed  in  the  best  way. 

The  hybrid  clematis  will  thrive  in  any  good  garden  soil  that  is 
well  drained,  and,  generally  speaking,  adapted  to  bedding  plants.  But 
the  soil  which  suits  them  best  is  a  light,  rich,  sandy  loam;  the  lighter 
the  soil  the  better,  but  it  cannot  be  too  deep  or  too  well  drained. 
They  are  hardy  enough  for  all  except  the  bleakest  climates  in  these 
islands,  but  a  warm  sheltered  position  and  full  exposure  to  sunshine 
are  conditions  that  conduce  greatly  to  their  prosperity,  and,  conse- 
vol.  vi. — no.  v.  9 


130  THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 

quentlv,  to  their  abundant  flowering.  The  best  way  to  multiply  them 
is  to  put  down  layers  in  August,  but  half-ripe  shoots  may  be  easily 
struck  in  summer  under  hand-glasses  or  in  frames. 

"When  grown  as  bedding  plants  the  hybrid  clematis  should  be 
planted  two  to  three  feet  apart  in  large  clumps.  A  number  of 
varieties  may  be  mixed,  as  they  all  present  shades  of  crimson  and 
purple,  but  the  most  decided  effect  will  be  produced  by  employing 
one  showy  variety  for  a  bed,  or  a  number  of  varieties  distinctly 
arranged  in  bands  or  rows.  Some  time  in  June  the  beds  should  be 
covered  with  two  inches  depth  of  half-rotten  manure  put  on  care- 
fully. The  plants  will  soon  cover  and  hide  it,  and  will  enjoy  the 
moist  surface  it  will  ensure  them  during  the  heat  of  the  summer. 
As  the  plants  progress  they  must  be  pegged  down  a  little  higher 
than  verbenas,  and  quite  as  regularly.  All  the  growth  they  make 
should  be  left  until  the  month  of  April  following,  when  the  whole  of 
the  plants  should  be  cut  back  to  within  six  inches  of  the  ground. 

"When  employed  to  cover  walls  and  trellises,  it  is  not  well  to  tie 
them  in  from  top  to  toe,  as  a  drill-sergeant  would,  if  he  dared,  tie  in 
his  young  recruits.  Take  them  up  a  certain  height  properly  ;  make 
them  very  secure,  and  then  let  them  fall  over  improperly  ;  just  as  a 
bit  of  grand  old  ivy  will  tumble  from  the  top  of  a  tower,  and  suddenly 
stay  in  mid  air,  as  a  magical  fringe  to  a  harsh  ungainly  outline.  As 
it  is  desirable  to  cover  walls  and  trellises  quickly,  secure  strong  plants 
and  do  justice  to  them.  If  a  border  must  be  made  for  them,  say 
turfy  loam,  sand,  and  rotten  manure  equal  parts,  and  the  border  to 
be  three  feet  wide  and  two  feet  deep,  and  the  plants  not  more  than 
six  feet  apart ;  better  if  three  feet  apart  to  begin  with,  to  ensure  a 
quick  investment. 

When  grown  on  rockeries  and  rough  banks,  they  should  not  be 
pruned  at  all.  Give  them  a  deep  bed  of  light  rich  soil  in  well  chosen 
positions,  and  for  ever  after,  so  far  as  regards  cultivation,  forget  them. 
"When  grown  as  conservatory  specimens,  pot  them  in  11  or  13- 
inch  pots  in  a  good  light  loamy  compost,  and  grow  them  out  of  doors 
until  they  begin  to  flower.  The  best  form  in  which  to  train  them  is 
the  pyramid,  or  a  blunt  cone,  but  that  is  a  matter  of  taste,  and  they 
may  be  as  easily  trained  to  a  watch-glass  form  as  a  verbena  or  chry- 
santhemum. The  trellis  must  be  adapted  to  the  form  required,  and 
in  some  cases  hazel  rods,  in  others  stout  wires  will  be  necessary.  It 
is  of  the  utmost  importance  in  the  cultivation  of  the  plants  in  pots 
or  tubs  to  keep  them  regularly  watered,  and  occasionally  syringed 
with  clean  soft  water. 

Though  so  new  to  our  gardens,  the  varieties  of  clematis  already 
exceed  all  average  requirements,  and  it  is  necessary  in  connection 
with  this  paper  that  we  should  make  a  selection.  We  shall  be 
content  with  only  twelve,  though  we  might  find  fifty  varieties  worth 
growing.  Those  who  want  more  than  we  recommend  can  easily 
obtain  them,  but  we  must  beg  that  they  will  secure  our  lot  first,  for 
we  believe  them  to  be  stars  of  the  first  magnitude  in  the  constellation 
Clematis. 

Star  of  India  must  have  first  place  as  the  subject  of  our  figure. 
It  is  but  poorly  represented  in  the  plate,  though  the  portrait  is  truth- 


THE    FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  13L 

ful,  and  bits  the  truth  of  nature  as  nearly  as  art  can  do.  The  flowers 
are  four  or  five  inches  in  diameter,  the  colour  richest  violet  purple, 
with  a  reddish  purple  band  in  the  centre  of  each  petal.  It  is  pro- 
bably the  finest  clematis  yet  raised. 

Lady  Caroline  Nevill  produces  flowers  of  great  size,  often  seven 
inches  in  diameter.  The  colour  is  a  most  delicate  lavender-tinted 
blush,  with  broad  purplish  lilac  band  in  the  centre  of  each  petal. 

Tunbridgensis  has  flowers  averaging  five  inches  in  diameter ;  the 
form  perfect ;  the  colour  dark  blue,  shaded  with  purple.  The  neat 
growth  and  abundant  flowering  of  this  variety  render  it  a  first-rate 
bedding  plant. 

The  three  foregoing  splendid  novelties  are  now  being  offered  for 
the  first  time  at  21s.  per  plant  by  Messrs.  Cripps  and  Son,  the  Nur- 
series, Tunbridge  Wells.  The  varieties  which  follow  may  be  obtained 
generally  in  the  trade  at  two  or  three  shillings  each,  or  less. 

Jac/cmani,  one  of  the  most  interesting,  because  the  type  of  the 
new  race,  and  one  of  the  first  among  mauy  splendid  varieties  obtained 
by  Messrs.  Jackman,  of  Woking.  The  flowers  average  six  inches 
across,  the  colour  violet  purple. 

Rubro-violacea,  brilliant  reddish  violet,  makes  a  remarkably  fine 
bed. 

Viticella  ametliystina,  pale  violet  blue,  very  distinct.  Fine  for 
beds  or  specimens. 

Magnified,  flowers  very  large,  colour  soft  purple,  with  reddish 
bars,  which  give  to  the  flower  a  star-like  appearance.  Fine  for  con- 
servatory specimens. 

Prince  of  Wales,  flowers  very  large  and  produced  in  great  abun- 
dance ;  colour  deep  purple,  with  red  bars. 

Rubella,  a  remarkably  fine  variety,  producing  an  astonishing 
profusion  of  massive  flowers  of  a  solemn  claret  colour.  For  speci- 
men culture  and  for  trellises  this  cannot  be  surpassed. 

Lanuginosa  pallida,  clear  lilac,  with  reddish  bars,  makes  a  fine 
bed. 

Lanuginosa  Candida,  pure  white,  a  good  companion  to  the  fore- 
going. 

Velutina  purpurea,  flowers  very  large,  colour  rich  maroon-purple. 

This  is  the  best  time  in  the  whole  year  to  purchase  and  plant 
clematis.  The  plants  are  kept  in  pots  at  the  nurseries,  and  are 
generally  of  sufficient  size  to  produce  a  good  effecL  the  first  season 
if  they  are  put  out  at  not  more  than  three  feet  apart.  Those  to  be 
grown  in  pots  or  tubs  should  be  shifted  at  once  into  the  pots  they 
are  to  flower  in,  and  placed  in  a  sheltered,  but  sunny  spot  out  of 
doora.  It  would  be  well  to  allow  all  the  growth  to  remain,  and  train 
it  in  carefully  to  make  the  most  of  the  plants  the  first  season.  We 
should  allow  them  to  remain  in  the  same  pots  two  seasons,  giving 
them  weak  liquid  manure  the  second  season  when  growing  freely. 
In  the  autumn  of  the  second  season,  it  would  be  well  to  shake  them 
out  and  repot  in  pots  one  or  two  sizes  larger  with  fresh  light  soil,  and 
in  the  succeeding  spring  they  might  be  severely  pruned  to  promote 
a  free  growth  of  young  shoots  for  the  production  of  flowers  of  fine 
quality.  S.  H. 


132  THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 


KIDNEY  BEANS. 

[FDNEY  BEANS  are  universally  appreciated,  and  peer 
and  peasant  are  almost  equally  interested  in  their  cul- 
tivation, for,  amongst  the  summer  vegetables,  when 
young  and  juicy,  they  are  equally  elegant,  delicate,  and 
wholesome.  In  English  cookery  the  ripe  seeds  are 
much  less  used  than  on  the  continent,  where,  for  haricot  dishes, 
the  small  white-seeded  sorts,  in  a  dried  state,  are  in  constant  request. 
It  is  a  question  if  the  ripe  seeds  of  any  kidney  beans  (Phaseolus)  are 
altogether  wholesome  ;  we  incline  to  the  belief  that  they  possess 
properties  which  render  them  objectionable  as  food,  but  there  can 
be  no  question  about  the  green  pods,  as  we  are  accustomed  to  eat 
them,  carefully  cooked,  of  a  fine  green  colour,  and  tender  as  the 
slice  of  butter  that  the  prudent  cook  will  never  fail  to  place  on  the 
top  of  the  smoking  pile  when  they  have  been  drained  and  dished 
for  table.  An  invalid  may  eat  a  dish  of  French  beans  or  scarlet- 
runners  late  at  night  without  danger,  and  that  is  a  peculiar  test  of 
the  wholesomeness  of  the  dish  ;  for,  with  the  exception  of  spinach, 
there  is  scarcely  any  other  vegetable  that  a  weak  stomach  dare 
encounter  when  the  mid-day  hours  have  passed. 

Kidney  beans  will  grow  fairly,  and  produce  useful  fruit  in  the 
most  trashy  soils  and  unpromising  situations.  There  is  scarcely  a 
plant  known  to  the  cultivator  of  vegetables  that  will  endure  long- 
continued  drought  with  so  little  harm  as  the  dwarf  French  bean  ; 
and  as  to  our  old  familiar  friend,  the  scarlet-runner,  it  is  no  uncom- 
mon thing  to  see  it  thriving  in  a  sort  of  cinder-bed,  heavily  shaded 
by  trees,  in  the  garden  of  the  cottager  whom  the  love  of  beer  has 
seduced,  and  in  whose  garden,  therefore,  "  the  thorn  and  the  thistle 
growr  broader  and  higher."  But  the  capabilities  of  a  plant  to  endure 
insult  are  not  sufficient  to  justify  careless  cultivation.  For  that, 
indeed,  it  should  be  shown  that  good  treatment  renders  the  kidney 
bean  unproductive,  while  a  hap-hazard  life  is  conducive  to  its  pros- 
perity. It  so  happens,  as  matter  of  fact,  that  this  plant  enjoys 
good  living,  and  never  fails  to  make  an  ample  return  for  it.  The 
lesson  is  consequently  patent — it  must  be  well  grown  in  order  to 
attain  complete  development,  and  make  its  owner  happy  by  its 
bounteous  dower  of  delicious  fruit.  A  deep,  fertile  loam  suits  the 
kidney  bean  to  perfection.  The  situation  should  be  open,  sunny, 
and  sheltered.  The  plant  is  one  of  the  most  tender,  and  though  it 
bears  drought  in  a  remarkably  satisfactory  manner,  cold  and  exces- 
sive moisture  soon  bring  it  down  to  the  dust  or  mud.  The  soil  for 
runners  should  be  especially  well  prepared  by  trenching  and  manur- 
ing, but  the  dwarf  kidney  beans  do  not  so  much  need  manure, 
though  they  will  always  pay  for  it,  if  in  other  respects  they  are 
managed  in  a  sensible  manner. 

Now,  as  everybody  grows  these  plants,  it  may  seem  an  over- 
stretch of  nicety  to  talk  about  "  sensible  manner,"  but  we  are 
bound  to  begin  finding  fault  wTith  everybody,  by  saying  that  every- 
body sows  the  seed  too  thick,  and  leaves  too  many  plants  on  the 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE.  133 

ground.  The  weakest-growing  sorts  of  kidney  beans  known  will 
cover  a  square  foot  each  plant,  and  therefore  we  may  properly  allow 
for  the  weakest  a  space  of  two  feet  between  the  rows,  and  of  one 
foot  between  the  plants.  It  is  quite  a  common  practice  to  leave 
the  strong-growing  sorts  four  to  six  inches  apart,  so  we  have  a  fair 
case  for  grumbling,  even  at  the  first  start.  The  distances  are  to  be 
determined  by  a  consideration  of  the  habit  of  the  variety  and  the 
strength  of  the  soil.  On  our  fat  loam,  in  a  moist  valley,  we  find 
that  the  Long-podded  Negro  dwarf  bean  may  be  in  rows  three  feet 
apart,  and  the  plants  two  feet  asunder  in  the  row,  and  then  we  can 
scarcely  get  amongst  them  to  gather,  so  completely  do  they  cover 
the  ground.  As  for  runners,  we  always  leave  them  a  foot  apart  at 
least,  and  might  leave  them  double  that  distance  with  the  certainty 
of  a  good  plant,  and  have  the  stakes  heavily  garlanded  soon  after  Mid- 
summer-day. It  is  well  to  sow  in  deep  drills,  even  if  they  are  a 
day  or  two  longer  in  coming  up  than  they  would  be  if  sown  shallow. 
Cover  the  seed  three  inches  at  least,  and  be  patient.  Tour  neigh- 
bour, who  covers  with  a  mere  dusting  of  soil,  will  have  plants 
before  you  do,  but  in  a  run  of  years  the  deep-sowing  system  will 
win,  for  we  do  not  merely  need  to  see  the  plant  sprout,  we  also 
desire  to  see  it  grow  on  without  a  check,  and  flower  and  fruit  freely. 
The  best  day  in  all  the  year  for  sowing  kidney  beans  is  May- 
day. Where  an  early  supply  is  wanted,  it  is  customary  to  sow  in 
pots  and  boxes  in  March  and  April,  and  keep  them  in  pits  and 
frames  until  the  plants  can  be  put  out.  It  is  by  no  means  wise  so 
to  act,  and,  as  a  rule,  the  man  who  sows  in  the  open  on  the  1st  of 
May  will  have  the  advantage  of  one  who  takes  a  lot  of  trouble  to 
gain  a  week  or  so  in  the  first  gathering  of  fruit.  The  earliest  sorts 
of  dwarf  beans  may  be  sown  in  open  borders  about  the  middle  of 
April  with  a  fair  prospect  of  success,  especially  if  the  rows  can  be 
protected  by  means  of  such  a  contrivance  as  Looker's  Acme  Frame, 
or  by  bell-glasses  or  flower-pots  in  the  event  of  cold  weather  occur- 
ring after  the  plants  have  begun  to  push  through  the  ground.  The 
crop  may  certainly  be  hastened  by  the  adoption  of  simple  measures 
of  protecting  or  coaxing,  and,  indeed,  early  supplies  of  dwarf  beans 
may  be  obtained  most  easily  by  sowing  at  the  end  of  March,  in 
frames,  and  giving  air  cautiously  on  fine  days,  more  and  more  freely, 
until  in  the  end  the  lights  are  removed  altogether.  But  our  anxiety 
has  always  been,  not  to  obtain  early,  but  late  crops  of  kidney  beans  ; 
and  for  this  simple  reason,  that  when  they  first  come  in,  vegetables 
are  plentiful,  but,  as  they  are  going  out,  vegetables  become  scarce. 
Thus,  in  the  earliest  days  of  French  beans  and  runners,  there  are  at 
command  cauliflowers,  peas,  spinach,  broad  beans,  and  new  potatoes. 
.Rapidly  these  drop  out  of  the  list,  and,  as  the  season  advances, 
kidney  beans  and  marrows  are  almost  the  only  vegetables  of  a  delicate 
kind  available.  For  just  this  reason  we  do  not  usually  sow  until 
the  1st  of  June,  and  we  never  miss  sowing  two  or  three  sorts — the 
common  scarlet-runner  being  always  one — about  the  15th  or  20th 
of  June.  In  southern  counties,  and  especially  on  light  soils,  sow- 
ings may  be  made  as  late  as  the  first  week  in  July,  but  on  our  cold 
soil  that  is  too  late,  for  just  as  the  plants  should  be  in  full  bearing, 


134  THE    FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

the  fogs,  frosts,  and  heavy  rains  take  the  shine  (with  the  fruit  as  a 
make-weight)  clean  out  of  them. 

All  the  sorts  that  require  stakes  pay  better  for  staking  than 
trailing,  provided  only  that  stakes  can  be  obtained  for  moderate  labour 
or  reasonable  outlay.  There  are  a  few  valuable  varieties  that  rise 
only  three  or  four  feet  high,  for  which  mere  refuse  brushwood  will 
suffice.  But  if  it  is  out  of  the  question  to  stake  the  running  sorts, 
they  may  be  kept  in  a  compact  state  of  growth  by  constant  pinching 
away  of  the  points  of  the  shoots,  which  should  be  done  simul- 
taneously with  the  gathering  of  the  pods  as  often  as  possible.  It 
is  by  this  mode  of  procedure  that  the  scarlet-runner  is  kept  in  a 
dwarf  state  as  a  field  crop,  and  not  by  the  sowing  of  a  dwarf  sort, 
which  many  people  believe  the  market-gardeners  to  possess,  and 
keep  to  themselves.  In  the  books  we  find  it  recommended  to  pinch 
back  all  running  sorts,  even  when  they  are  well  staked  ;  but  this  is 
neither  necessary  nor  desirable,  for  they  bear  more  abundantly  if 
allowed  to  grow  to  their  full  height  unchecked,  and  therefore  the 
cultivator  may  give  them  the  tallest  stakes  he  can  afford,  and  con- 
sider a  ladder  a  needful  agent  in  the  gathering  of  the  crop.  When 
string  is  used  for  training  runner  beans,  it  should  be  slack  enough 
to  allow  for  contraction  in  wet  weather.  When  runner  beans  are 
grown  on  hot,  dry  soils,  the  seed  should  be  sown  in  manured 
trenches,  to  facilitate  the  operation  of  watering ;  for  if  ever  water  is 
given  to  this  crop,  it  must  be  in  considerable  quantities,  with  an 
interval  of  a  week  or  so  between  the  several  supplies.  The 
dwarfest  sorts,  however,  are  far  better  adapted  to  starving  soils 
than  any  of  the  runners.  The  roots  of  all  the  sorts  may  be  pre- 
served during  the  winter  in  sand  for  planting  out  in  May,  precisely 
as  dahlias  are  treated  ;  but  as  seed  is  cheap,  and  produces  a  fruitful 
plant  as  rapidly  as  roots,  the  saving  of  the  roots  is  a  sheer  waste  of 
time,  and  should  be  practised  only  by  those  who  want  amusement. 

The  gathering  of  the  crop  is  really  an  important  part  of  the 
general  management  of  kidney  beans.  If  allowed  to  hang  too  long, 
the  pods  become  stringy,  and  tough,  and  tasteless,  and  the  plants 
cease  to  produce  as  they  should  do.  It  is  really  better  to  gather  all 
the  produce  on  the  instant  of  its  becoming  fit  for  use,  and  throw  it 
away,  than  allow  any  accumulation  on  the  plants  of  mature  pods, 
because  the  maturing  process  puts  a  stop  to  bearing ;  and  at  the 
close  of  the  season,  when  well-managed  kidney  beans  are  invaluable, 
those  that  have  been  allowed  to  ripen  seeds  are  absolutely  worthless. 
But  the  reader  will  ask,  impatiently,  perhaps,  if  he  may  not  save  a 
few  seeds,  as  his  father,  grandfather,  and  great-grandfather  did  ? 
Tes,  certainly ;  save  a  few,  by  all  means,  if  you  wish,  but  do  it 
properly,  both  to  ensure  a  maximum  of  green  pods  and  a  maximum 
of  ripe  seeds ;  in  other  words,  to  obtain  all  the  plant  can  give  you, 
instead  of  half  or  two-thirds  its  proper  produce.  To  solve  this 
problem  is  most  easy.  If  you  wish  to  save  a  little  seed,  leave  a  few 
plants,  or  a  row,  according  to  requirements,  altogether  untouched. 
Let  them  have  plenty  of  room  for  the  enjoyment  of  the  sunshine, 
but  do  not  remove  from  them  a  single  green  pod — in  other  words, 
let  them  ripen  every  pod  they  produce  from  the  very  first,  and  jou 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  135 

will  have  seed  of  the  finest  quality.  From  those  you  gather  green 
pods,  gather  all,  and  you  will  have  an  enormous  production,  lasting 
until  the  cruel  autumnal  frosts  make  a  miserable  havoc  of  the 
plantation. 

About  fifty  sorts  of  kidney  beans  have  been  grown  in  the  expe- 
rimental garden  at  Stoke  Newington.  It  is  equally  agreeable  and 
surprising  to  be  able  to  say  that  a  considerable  proportion  of  them 
are  good,  but,  as  a  matter  of  course,  very  few  are  needed  in  any  private 
garden.  We  have  made  a  selection  of  varieties  for  several  classes 
of  cultivators,  and  hope  they  will  be  useful,  though  unaccompanied 
with  the  descriptions  that  might  easily  be  appended  by  reference  to 
our  notes  of  the  trial  they  were  submitted  to  last  year. 

Dwarf  Kidnet  Beans. — The  best  for  forcing,  and  to  sow  on 
warm  slopes  for  early  crops,  are  Sion  Souse  and  Sir  Joseph  Paxton. 
The  best  for  main  crops,  a  handsome  plant,  and  prodigiously  fruit- 
ful, is  the  Long-Podded  Negro.  The  following  are  also  good: 
Mexican  Salmon,  Fulmer's,  and  Bun-coloured.  The  following  are 
not  worth  growing,  except  for  some  special  purpose :  Newington 
Wonder,  Dwarf  Battersea,  Black-speckled. 

Intermediate  Kidney  Beans.— The  Paris  Market,  rising  only 
three  to  five  feet  high,  is  invaluable  for  its  abundant  production  of 
large,  handsome,  tender  beans.  The  Canterbury  dwarf  rises  about 
three  feet,  and  is  the  better  for  being  staked. 

Tall-runner  Kidney  Beans. — The  two  best  and  handsomest 
of  this  class  are  Giant  White  and  Common  Scarlet.  These  should 
be  grown  in  every  garden,  the  white  being  singularly  beautiful  and 
highly  productive.  The  best  of  such  as  we  may  call  curious 
varieties,  is  the  Blue  or  Purple-podded,  which  grows  about  five  or 
six  feet  high,  producing  dark  bronzy  leaves,  violet-coloured  flowers, 
and  pods  of  a  violet-purple  colour.  It  is  moderately  productive, 
and  the  pods  make  an  excellent  dish,  being  green  and  tender  when 
cooked.  All  the  white  and  yellow-podded  runners  are  to  be  avoided, 
except  by  those  who  have  become  accustomed  to  their  use,  and 
understand  how  to  cook  them.  The  best  of  them,  both  for  exhi- 
bition and  the  table,  is  the  Yelloiv-podded  Algerian.  The  following 
are  good,  and  well  worth  growing,  though  of  secondary  importance : 
White  Butch,  White  Lady,  White  Scimitar,  New  Zealand,  Liver- 
coloured,  Black-seeded,  Painted  Lady,  or  York  and  Lancaster.  The 
last  is  extremely  pretty.  S.  H. 


To  Destroy  Earthworms.— B.  S.— The  following  is  a  recipe  originally  pub- 
lished in  the  Garden  Oracle  for  1864  :  Corrosive  sublimate  1  oz.,  common  salt  1 
tablespoonful,  boiling  water  1  pint ;  stir  till  dissolved.  Pour  the  mixture  into  9 
gallons  of  rain-water,  and  water  the  lawn  or  the  soil  in  flower-pots,  wherever, 
indeed,  the  worms  that  annoy  are  to  be  found.  We  must  confess  we  do  not  under- 
stand how  any  real  difficulty  about  getting  rid  of  earthworms  can  arise  in  any 
garden.  Lime-water  can  be  made  with  the  least  possible  amount  of  trouble,  and  is 
always  effectual. 


136  THE   FLORAL    WORLD  AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

THE  BEGINNEE  IN  GEAPE   GEOWING.— No.  IV. 

BY   WILLIAM    COLE, 

Head  Gardener,  Ealing  Park,  Middlesex. 

[IN  former  communications  under  this  heading  the  subject 
has  been  dealt  with  in  a  general  manner,  so  as  to  be  of 
assistance  to  grape  growers  of  all  classes,  but  before 
proceeding  further  it  is  desirable  that  something  should 
be  said  about  the  cultivation  of  the  grape-vine  in  the 
greenhouse.  Such  matters  as  the  propagation  and  the  growth  of 
the  vines  during  the  first  year  of  their  existence,  and  the  preparation 
of  the  border,  of  course,  apply  with  as  much  force  to  the  green- 
house as  they  do  to  the  vinery.  But  a  few  of  the  minor  details 
differ,  and  it  is  well  that  they  should  be  explained  at  once. 

It  is  not  an  unfrequent  occurrence  to  meet  with  the  assertion 
that  good  grapes  cannot  be  grown  in  a  house  occupied  during  the 
greater  part  of  the  year  with  flowering  and  other  plants,  and,  to 
prevent  any  misapprehension,  I  will  state  at  once  that  these  asser- 
tions are  not  strictly  true.  Where  grapes  of  the  finest  quality  are 
required,  and  separate  structures  are  provided  for  fruit  and  plant- 
growing,  it  certainly  would  not  be  wise  to  crowd  the  vineries  with 
plants.  There  are  periods,  such  as  when  the  grapes  are  in  flower, 
and  when  the  berries  are  colouring,  when  the  presence  of  plants  is 
objectionable,  because  of  the  moisture  arising  from  them,  but  with 
due  care,  when  the  vines  are  allowed  to  grow  of  their  own  accord, 
without  the  use  of  fire-heat,  no  serious  harm  will  result  therefrom. 
Eor  instance,  by  the  time  the  vines  are  in  flower,  the  season  will  be 
sufficiently  advanced  to  admit  of  the  ventilators  being  opened  to, 
their  fullest  extent,  and  thus  prevent  the  slightest  possibility  of 
the  "setting"  process  being  interfered  with  through  a  stagnant 
atmosphere.  Also  when  the  berries  are  colouring  nearly  all  the 
plants  grown  in  a  greenhouse  may  be  removed  to  the  open  air,  not 
only  without  injury,  but  with  decided  benefit  to  them.  Again,  if  it 
is  desired  to  keep  the  grapes  long  after  the  season  for  filling  the 
greenhouse  with  plants  for  the  winter,  the  bunches  can  be  cut  with 
a  piece  of  the  spur,  and  the  end  of  the  branch  inserted  in  bottles  of 
water  suspended  in  a  dry  and  airy  room.  The  berries  will  keep 
plump  and  retain  their  full  flavour  for  a  considerable  length  of  time. 
I  am  not  alluding  to  keeping  grapes  until  far  into  the  following 
spring,  because  there  are  only  a  few  sorts  that  have  a  skin  thick 
enough  to  allow  of  their  being  kept  in  good  condition  so  long  ;Ntjut 
I  refer  to  the  most  desirable  sorts  for  the  greenhouse,  such  as  the 
Black  Hamburgh  and  Eoyal  Ascot. 

The  shape  and  size  of  the  greenhouse  vinery  must,  of  course,  be 
regulated  by  the  position  it  is  to  occupy,  and  by  the  taste  and  cir- 
cumstances of  the  owner.  I  would,  however,  strongly  recommend 
a  span  roof  rather  wide  and  lofty.  The  front  lights  should  be 
rather  high,  say  three  feet  above  the  brickwork,  to  admit  the  light 
to  the  plants  grown  under  the  vines.     The  borders  should  be  entirely 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 


137 


outside,  and  the  vines  brought  through  the  wall  just  underneath  the 
plate  of  wood  upon  which  the  front  sashes  rest.  With  respect  to 
the  internal  fittings,  a  stage  should  be  erected  in  the  centre,  and  a  flat 
stage,  about  two  feet  in  width  on  the  two  sides,  with  three  feet  walk 
between  the  sides  and  centre.  The  sashes  at  the  side  should  be  matte 
to  open,  as  well  as  providing  ventilators  in  the  roof,  because  in  the 
spring  and  summer  season  a  free  circulation  of  air  must  be  main- 
tained in  congenial  weather  for  the  sake  of  the  health  of  the  plants. 
The    accompanying  fignre    of  a   span   roof  greenhouse   vinery, 


SECTION   OF    GREENHOUSE    VINERY. 


erected  by  Messrs.  Hereman  and  Morton,  affords  a  capital  illus- 
tration of  the  structure  here  recommended  for  the  cultivation  of 
both  plants  and  grapes. 

The  roof  must  not  be  covered  with  a  complete  canopy  of  green 
foliage,  or  it  will  be  next  to  impossible  to  grow  plants  of  any  kind 
satisfactorily,  for  they  will  be  drawn  up  so  much  as  to  become,  by 
the  middle  of  the  summer,  quite  unsightly.  A  good  distance  at 
which  to  plant  vines  apart  in  the  greenhouse  is  four  feet,  and  then 
by  training  the  branches  rather  close  to  the  main  root,  and  by 
keeping  the  laterals  well  stopped,  the  plants  will  receive  plenty  of 
light  for  maintaining  a  healthy  growth. 


CARPET     BEDDING. 

BY    HENRY    CANNELL, 
The  Nursery,  Station  Road,  Woolwich,  S.E.' 

HE  beautiful  illustration  of  an  embroidery  border  which 
appeared  in  the  March  number  of  the  Floral  World  has 
induced  me  to  offer  a  few  remarks  upon  the  style  of 
planting  there  represented,  by  way  of  supplement  to 
the  observations  which  accompanied  the  picture.  Some 
twenty  years  ago  the  flower  garden  was  simply  a  confused  mass  of 
colour,  and  the  improvement  that  has  been  effected  since  that  time 
is  simply  wonderful ;  although  at  one  period  the  planter's  whole 
attention  was  devoted  to  producing  a  brilliant  display  of  colour,  and 


138  THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 

all  bedding  plants  not  having  flowers  of  a  scarlet,  yellow,  or  blue 
hue,  were  looked  upon  as  of  little  service,  and  were  quietly  elbowed 
out,  to  make  way  for  those  haviug  flowers  of  the  desired  colour. 
Indeed,  it  was  thought  that  the  greatest  glare  of  colour  was  the 
chief  merit  of  a  well-kept  garden  ;  but  Nature  has  taught  us  that 
colour  is  very  sparingly  used,  and  when  applied  it  is  very  bright  and 
attractive.  Another  lesson  we  have  also  learnt  from  Nature  is,  that 
other  tints,  particularly  those  approaching  to  the  various  shades  of 
green,  when  well  blended  together,  are  extremely  beautiful  ;  and 
consequently  curious,  aud  highly-coloured  leaf  plants  are  fast  gaining 
the  respect  of  all  those  who  have  a  refined  taste  for  the  love  of 
Nature.  I  fear,  however,  that  very  few,  even  of  those  who  like  to 
see  their  gardens  planted  in  the  best  possible  style,  have  a  fair  idea 
of  the  splendid  and  rich  effect  that  can  be  produced  with  ornamental- 
leaved  plants  only;  for  those  who  have  not  seen  Alternantheras, 
Echeverias,  Golden  Feather,  and  other  low-growing  bedding  plants  in 
their  proper  colours,  cannot  form  an  idea  of  the  beautiful  appearance 
they  have  when  properly  arranged. 

There  have  been  many  very  pretty  arrangements  of  these  low- 
growing  plants  in  Battersea  Park,  and  those  who  have  had  an 
opportunity  of  seeing  them  have  no  doubt  learnt  much  respecting 
them.  The  selection  of  the  colours  used  in  this  park  has  unfor- 
tunately been  too  much  limited,  for  they  consisted  almost  exclu- 
sively of  magenta,  yellow,  and  white  ;  and,  as  the  two  latter  do  not 
contrast  well,  they  ought  not  to  be  planted  side  by  side.  The 
prettiest  and  best  beds,  last  season,  were  at  Messrs.  Veitch's  Nur- 
sery, Chelsea ;  these  were  oblong  raised  block  beds,  between,  and 
abutting  against,  the  gable  end  of  the  greenhouse,  on  each  side  of 
the  entrance.  And  when  seen,  these  raised  mounds,  tapering  up- 
wards, each  having  its  beautifully-squared  edges,  might  have  been 
taken  for  pedestals  for  statuary.  They  averaged  about  eighteen 
inches  high,  five  feet  long,  three  feet  wide  at  bottom,  and  about 
eighteen  inches  at  top,  and  were  planted  in  great  taste  with  diminu- 
tive plants.  Golden  Feather,  Alternantheras,  Echeverias,  and  a  small- 
growing  bright  blue  Lobelia,  formed  the  outline,  and  the  panels 
were  well  shaped  out  in  various  designs,  such  as  diamonds,  triangles, 
half-rounds,  etc.  For  neatness  and  taste,  I  believe  the  designs 
eclipsed  all  that  has  yet  been  attempted.  The  only  flowering  plant 
was  the  Lobelia,  for  the  sake  of  its  blue  colour.  At  Kew  they  had 
a  very  large  bed  intended  for  this  style,  but,  by  intermixing  tall 
plants,  a  complicated  design  was  the  result,  and  the  required  effect 
was  totally  lost.  It  was  at  best  merely  a  curiosity  without  beauty. 
The  next  best  design  to  Messrs.  Veitch's  was,  in  my  opinion,  in  my 
trial  garden,  and  was  simply  an  ordinary  flat,  raised  about  ten  inches, 
with  its  sides  slightly  sloping  towards  the  walk. 

Now  comes  one  of  the  main  features  in  making  these  beds.  In 
the  winter  season  we  collected  as  much  as  was  likely  to  be  required 
of  fresh  cow-dung  one-third,  and  the  remaining  two-thirds  adhesive 
loam.  These  were  roughly  put  together  until  bedding-time,  the  bed 
made  the  shape  required,  with  its  sides  so  as  to  be  perfectly  straight, 
flat,  and  level   when  all  was  planted  and  finished.     This  done,  we 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND   GARDEN   GUIDE.  139 

marked  out  the  centre  design  as  required.  Every  plant  was  then  put 
exactly  in  its  place — not  one-eighth  of  an  inch  out  of  their  proper 
line  and  height.  After  the  centre  was  finished,  so  that  the  sides 
could  he  easily  reached  from  the  grass  or  path,  we  commenced 
plastering  and  building  up  the  sides  with  the  cow-dung  and  loam. 
This  was  merely  to  keep  the  edges  up  throughout  the  season,  and  as 
we  proceeded  with  the  work  we  inserted  a  perfectly  regular  line  of 
Echeverias.  Either  secunda  or  secunda  glauca  will  do,  although  the 
latter  is  the  best.  Sempervivum  califomicum  is  also  very  pretty,  and 
quite  hardy.  These  were  in  the  centre  of  the  six-inch  edging.  One 
regular-sized  plant  was  used,  and  put  at  a  regular  distance  from 
plant  to  plant,  otherwise  the  beauty  of  the  bed  would  have  been 
spoiled.  After  this,  we  proceeded  to  finish  the  planting  of  the  bed. 
I  struck  mine  out  last  year  with  my  boy's  bow  and  arrow,  which 
gave  me  a  continuation  of  small  half-round  shapes  on  both  sides, 
making  the  centre  a  running  line  of  diamonds,  which  were  formed 
with  Lobelia  pumila  grandiflora  (blue),  Golden  Feather  (yellow), 
Alternanthera  (orange  and  red),  and  the  remaining  half  circle  was 
filled  up  with  various  plants  for  a  trial.  To  give  a  slight  idea  how 
attractive  this  bed  was,  many  persons  asked  if  they  might  examine  it 
the  second  time;  and  it  is  difficult  to  say  how  astonished  they  were 
when  they  learnt  how  simple  were  the  arrangements. 

The  most  chaste  and  lovely  beds  may  be  made  with  the  following 
plants  : — A  margin  all  round  of  Echeveria  secunda  glauca,  which  is 
of  a  beautiful  bluish  grey  tint ;  then  plant  a  broad  band  of  Alter- 
nanthera paronychioides,  which  soon  after  planting  turns  a  beautiful 
orange  red  at  the  points  ;  then  make  either  squares,  circles,  or 
diamonds  in  the  centre,  at  equal  distances,  and  fill  them  with  Pyre- 
thrum  Golden  Feather,  which  is  the  most  effective,  accommodating, 
good-natured  plant  in  the  world,  as  it  will  stand  having  the  halves 
of  the  leaves  pinched  off  without  sustaining  the  slightest  injury  ; 
then  finally  fill  up  the  remaining  space  with  Alternanthera  amosna, 
which  is  the  brightest  coloured  of  all.  For  complete  success  in  a 
bed  of  this  kind,  the  soil  should  be  made  firm  at  the  edge,  and  cut 
off  perfectly  level,  and  the  Echeveria  should  be  planted  sideways, 
and  every  one  in  a  straight  even  line  ;  this  is  one  of  the  main  points  for 
a  bed  of  this  description.  Other  fine  and  effective  beds  may  be  made 
with  the  following  : — The  margin  Sempervivum  califomicum,  which 
is  a  peculiar  tint  of  green,  with  nearly  black  points,  and  requires  to 
be  planted  in  the  same  way  as  the  Echeveria ;  then  a  broad  band  of 
Antennaria  tomentosa,  which  is  one  of  the  finest  dwarf  silvery  grey 
carpet-like  plants  we  possess;  next  a  broad  band  of  Pyrethrum 
Golden  Feather,  and  fill  the  centre  with  Iresine  Lindeni,  a  ^raud 
sanguineous  red-leaved  plant  of  dwarf  habit,  and  a  pleasing  shade  of 
colour  ;  but  it  will  require  pinching  at  intervals  to  prevent  it  over- 
topping the  other  things. 

The  following  plants  are  the  best  adapted  for  this  style  of  plant- 
ing, but  there  are  many  more  which  might  be  employed  by  persons 
who  understood  their  growth  : — 

Pyrethrum  Golden  Feather  is  exceedingly  pretty  and  cheap.  A 
one  shilling  packet  of  seed  would  produce  about  five  hundred  plants. 


140  THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND   GARDEN    GUIDE. 

These  ought  to  be  small,  just  large  enough  to  handle,  and  pricked 
out,  with  a  small  stick,  about  four  inches  apart,  after  the  others  are 
planted  and  finished.  The  plants  can  be  pinched  in  with  the  finger 
and  thumb  to  any  required  size. 

Alternantheras  are  fine.  A.  amcena  is  much  the  best  in  colour. 
It  requires  to  be  well  hardened,  and  planted  sufficiently  thick  to 
produce  an  effect  at  once.  The  hardiest  of  all  tbe  Alternantheras 
is  A.  paronychioides. 

Lobelia  Pumila  grandiflora. — This  is  a  gem,  because  of  its  compact 
growth  and  bright  blue  flowers.  It  affords  a  fine  relief,  and 
never  exceeds  more  than  about  five  inches  high,  and  about  as  far 
through. 

Echeverias  are  exceedingly  valuable,  especially  E.  secunda  glauca, 
E.  glauca  metallica,  and  E.  metallica,  the  two  former  for  edging 
purposes,  and  the  latter  for  the  centre.  They  should  be  planted  so 
as  to  nearly  touch  each  other. 

Sempervivum  californicum  is  quite  hardy,  and  almost  equal  to  the 
dwarf  Echeverias,  if  the  young  offsets  are  pulled  off  as  they  appear. 

Achillea  umbellata. — This  is  a  beautiful  white-leaved  little  plant, 
grows  very  dense,  and  almost  hardy,  never  exceeds  more  than  about 
four  inches  high,  and  makes  a  fine  line  between  Alternantheras  and 
Lobelias. 

Antennaria  tomentosa. — This  is  fine  for  margins,  as  it  is  very 
white  in  its  foliage,  and  exceedingly  dwarf;  never  grows  higher  than 
moss  ;  and  for  a  yellow-foliaged  plant  of  the  same  character  grow 
the  following — 

Lysimachia  nummularia  atirea. — This  is  exceedingly  pretty,  and 
the  yellow  is  very  dark  and  quite  distinct  from  other  yellow  plants 
recommended  for  this  purpose  ;  grows  no  higher  than  moss,  and  is 
quite  hardy. 

Veronica  incana  and  Santolina  incana  are  also  admirable  little 
plants,  growing  about  four  to  five  inches  high,  and  about  as  much 
through ;  the  latter  will  grow  larger,  but  can  easily  be  kept  down  to 
any  required  height. 

Achyrocline  iSaundersoni. — This  is  equal  to  the  preceding,  quite 
hardy,  very  white,  and  makes  a  splendid  miniature  bush  or  line,  and 
can  be  cut  into  any  size  and  height  below  eight  inches. 

Teucrium  aureum  and  folium  are  quite  equal  for  their  frosted  ap- 
pearance ;  neither  of  these  grow  above  three  inches  high,  and  cover 
the  ground  admirably. 

Thymus  citriodorus  aureus. — This  is  about  the  same  growth  and 
height,  with  a  yellow  variegation,  and  is  unquestionably  fine,  and 
one  of  the  prettiest  little  plants  that  we  possess  for  edging  small 
beds. 

The  above  include  all  the  best  very  dwarf  white  and  yellow 
foliage  plants  suitable  for  the  flower  garden.  For  a  rather  taller 
growth  select — 

Eactylis  eleyantissima,  Polemonium  variegatum,  Coprosma  JBauer- 
iana  variegatum. — The  latter  has  a  good  bit  of  yellow  in  its  variega- 
tion, but  all  are  first-class  showy  and  effective  bedding  plants,  as 
each  can  be  cut  to  any  required  height  and  size. 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  141 

Mesembryanthemum  cordifolium  variegatum  and  Lonicera  aurea 
reticulata  are  different  in  character  from  the  preceding,  and  require 
pegging  down  occasionally  to  regulate  the  branches  as  they  trail  on 
the  ground. 

There  are  several  taller-growing  plants  that  may  be  used  with 
admirable  effect  in  a  large  design,  and  others  topped  and  pegged 
down,  such  as  Iresine  Lindeni,  Fuchsia  Golden  Treasure,  Coleus, 
various,  Amaranthus  melancholicus  ruber.  Where  these  plants  can 
be  used  in  the  design,  Geranium  Brilliantissima  for  a  brilliant  scarlet 
would  have  a  grand  effect  to  set  off  other  colours.  Many  Succulents 
can  be  used  in  small  corners,  but  by  all  means  do  not  plant  any 
kind  of  tall-growing  plants,  no  matter  how  handsome ;  if  they  are 
planted,  the  fine  effect  will  be  lost  all  the  season.  I  feel  convinced 
that  if  this  style  was  once  put  in  practice,  with — first,  Golden 
Feather,  then  Lobelia,  next  Cerastium,  then  Alternant hera,  then 
finished  off  with  any  kind  of  the  dwarf  Echeveria,  the  effect  would 
be  so  striking,  even  in  wet  bad  weather,  all  through  the  season,  that 
small  choice  beds  would  in  future  be  planted  almost  exclusively 
with  these  dwarf-coloured  foliage  plants.  It  must  be  remembered, 
too,  that  we  do  not  have  to  wait  for  leaf  effects  as  we  do  for  flowers. 


PORTULACAS  FOE  THE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

BY   A    KENTISH    GABDENEE. 


HE  constant  accessions  to  the  number  of  our  bedding- 
out  plants  have  quite  driven  these  out  of  the  field,  but 
I  trust  this  notice  may  induce  some  of  our  readers  to 
bestow  upon  them  a  share  of  their  favour,  as  they  are 
deserving  subjects.  It  is  true  they  are  somewhat  more 
troublesome  to  raise  than  the  hardy  annuals,  but  their  beauty  more 
than  repays  for  any  amount  of  trouble  they  may  take  to  bring  them 
into  use ;  and,  as  compared  to  the  little  extra  trouble,  the  beauty  of 
these  little  plants  is  an  important  consideration.  Indeed,  I  cannot 
imagine  anything  half  so  chaste  and  beautiful  in  the  whole  list  of 
annuals,  being  quite  distinct  from  any  commonly  grown  ;  and  their 
neat  habit  of  growth,  and  the  chaste  markings  of  the  flowers,  render 
them  most  fit  of  all  to  be  favourites  with  the  ladies.  But  to  grow 
them  satisfactorily  they  must  have  special  treatment. 

The  seed  should  be  had  iu  separate  colours.  I  used  to  be 
supplied  with  a  collection  of  twelve  different  colours,  out  of  which 
I  could  select  at  the  time  of  flowering  eight  sufficiently  distinct  to 
warrant  their  being  separated,  but  the  remaining  four  differed  so 
little  from  the  others,  that  a  casual  observer  could  hardly  assign  to 
them  any  peculiar  distinctness.  That,  however,  is  of  but  little 
consequence  when  compared  to  the  advantage  of  knowing  that  you 
can  depend  upon  the  majority  coming  true  to  the  colours  given,  as 
when  planting  you  can  the  better  balance  the  colours,  by  arranging 
the  most  distinct  at  such   distances  as  will  secure  an  even  distribu- 


142  THE    FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

tion  of  the  most  prominent  tints  over  the  bed,  and  by  filling  in 
the  doubtful  ones  between,  all  risk  of  there  being  a  predominance 
of  any  colour  over  one  part  of  the  bed  will  be  avoided.  For  those 
who  might  not  care  to  take  the  trouble  to  raise  them  in  separate 
colours,  a  shilling  packet  of  mixed  seed  will  be  sure  to  repay  the 
cultivator  for  all  the  pains  he  may  take  with  them. 

In  preparing  the  pots  or  pans  in  which  to  sow  the  seed,  let  them 
first  be  thoroughly  cleansed  and  dried,  and  then  half  filled  with 
broken  potsherds  for  drainage.  Next  pound  into  dust  some  old 
mortar,  and  some  old  bricks  into  small  nodules,  about  half  the  size 
of  hazel-nuts.  Take  equal  quantities  of  these  pounded  bricks,  silver- 
sand,  and  dry  leaf-soil.  Fill  the  pots  to  within  an  inch  of  the  rims 
with  this  mixture,  and  give  it  a  gentle  soaking  of  water.  When 
this  is  drained  away,  sow  the  seed  (which  is  very  fine)  thinly  on  the 
surface,  and  cover  with  a  very  little  dry  silver-sand.  If  the  pots 
are  placed  on  a  warm  shelf  in  the  greenhouse,  and  carefully  shaded, 
they  will  not  require  any  water  until  the  young  plants  are  showing 
themselves  ;  or  they  may  be  raised  in  a  warm  room  with  a  southern 
window.  But  here  they  may  require  water  once  or  twice  before 
the  seed  germinates,  as  the  air  of  a  room  is  usually  more  drying 
than  that  of  a  plant-house  ;  and  the  water  must  be  given  with  a  very 
fine  rose. 

Sow  the  seed  immediately,  and  plant  in  the  first  or  second  week 
in  June.  It  will  be  important  to  remember  that  water  is  the 
greatest  enemy  of  these  plants;  but  from  the  time  you  can  detect 
the  first  appearance -of  the  seeds  germinating,  you  cannot  give  them 
too  much  heat,  as  they  delight  in  a  dry  heated  atmosphere,  and 
thrive  best  when  they  have  but  little  water  and  an  unbroken  con- 
tinuance of  brilliant  sunshine.  When  the  plants  are  well  up,  in 
very  bright  weather  give  them  water  twice  a  week,  not  more ;  and 
not  through  a  rose  now,  but  lay  a  small  convex  potsherd  just  over 
the  rim  of  the  pot,  upon  this  pour  the  water  gently  from  the  spout 
of  a  small  water-can,  and  by  tdting  the  pot  or  pan  gently  on  one 
side,  the  water  will  distribute  itself  over  the  whole  surface  without 
damping  the  succulent  leaves  of  the  young  plants.  Sow  the 
seed  thinly,  and  grow  them  on  in  these  pots  until  they  are  bedded 
out. 

Now  for  the  bed ;  and  on  the  proper  construction  of  this 
depends  in  a  great  measure  the  success  of  the  cultivator.  In  the 
first  place,  take  away  all  the  soil  in  the  bed  twelve  inches  deep,  and 
place  in  the  bottom  six  inches  of  brickbats  or  flints  ;  upon  this  put 
another  six  inches  of  the  same  mixture  as  advised  above  for  sowing 
the  seed  in,  but  this  need  not  be  broken  up  so  fine  ;  into  this  prick 
out  the  plants  three  inches  apart,  give  a  little  water,  and  shade  for  a 
couple  of  days  if  the  weather  is  very  bright,  and  then  leave  them  to 
fate.  If  the  summer  should  be  favourable,  the  result  will  be  a 
brilliant  bed  of  colours  that  cannot  be  surpassed  if  the  whole  range 
of  annuals  were  grown  and  shown  by  the  side  of  them.  In  an 
ordinary  summer  they  will  produce  an  effect  that  wall  surprise  many 
who  have  never  grown  them.  If  we  could  foretell  what  the 
coming    summer  was  going   to   be,  and  that  it  would  be  a  bright 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  143 

sunny  one,  we  might  dispense  with  tbe  drainage  beneath  the 
plants,  and  use  the  mixture  only  ;  but  in  the  absence  of  any  fore- 
knowledge, those  who  intend  to  grow  them  had  best  adopt  the 
precaution  of  using  it,  as  a  thorough  system  of  drainage  is  at  ail  times 
essential  to  success. 


CINEEAEIAS. 

BY    J.    JAMES, 
Head  Gardener,  Redleea,  Isleworth,  W. 


jHE  inferiority  in  form  and  colour  of  the  flowers  of  the 
majority  of  the  seedling  plants,  when  compared  with  the 
best  of  the  named  varieties,  is  so  great  that  I  cannot 
understand  how  any  one  can  tolerate  them  in  their  con- 
servatoi  y.  The  trouble  of  propagating  a  stock  of  plants 
from  cuttings  is  undoubtedly  greater  than  from  seed  ;  but  the 
task  is  by  no  means  difficult,  and  the  advantages  are  more  than 
sufficient  to  repay  any  little  extra  labour  and  attention.  A  few 
observations  will  be  made  upon  raising  seedling  plants ;  but  as  t 
am  anxious  to  encourage  the  cultivation  of  the  best  of  the  named 
sorts  now  in  command,  the  remarks  will  be  principally  devoted  to 
giving  directions  for  their  propagation  and  after  management.  The 
details  are,  however,  very  simple,  and  the  whole  matter  can  be  dis- 
missed in  a  very  few  words. 

To  secure  a  stock  of  offsets  early  in  the  season,  the  plants  should 
have  the  flower-stems  removed  immediately  the  flowers  begin  to 
fade,  as  seed-bearing  weakens  them  and  interferes  with  the  produc- 
tion of  offsets.  Preserve  the  healthy  leaves  and  place  the  plants  in 
a  cold  frame,  protect  from  frost,  and  keep  the  soil  moderately  moist. 
"Where  frame-room  cannot  be  spared,  the  last  batch  may  be  stood 
upon  a  bed  of  coal-ashes  in  a  shady  position  in  the  open  air,  and 
protected  from  frost  when  necessarv.  The  early  batch  can  also  be 
placed  in  the  open  air  after  the  first  week  in  May,  if  desired  ;  but 
if  retained  in  a  frame  after  that  period  shade  during  brilliant 
sunshine. 

With  ordinary  attention  the  offsets  will  be  strong  and  ready 
for  removal  early  in  August.  They  should  be  taken  off  with  a  heel, 
and  a  small  portion  of  root.  Put  four  or  five  together  round  the 
sides  of  a  five-inch  pot,  and  place  in  a  cold  frame,  where  they  can 
be  shaded  and  regularly  sprinkled  overhead.  They  must  not  be 
kept  too  dark,  nor  the  frame  too  close,  or  a  large  proportion  will 
quickly  damp  off;  on  the  other  hand,  no  more  air  must  be  admitted 
than  they  can  bear  without  the  foliage  flagging.  Pot  off  singly  when 
well  rooted,  and  keep  close  and  shaded  for  a  few  days,  afterwards 
gradually  increase  the  supply  of  light  and  air  to  promote  a  healthy 
and  well-matured  growth. 

The  best  comjiost  for  the  cineraria  is  undoubtedly  one  consisting 
of  five  parts  turfy  loam,  a  sixth  part  of  well-  decayed  manure,  and  a 


144  THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

plentiful  proportion  of  silver-sand.  The  loam  must  be  chopped  up 
roughly,  and  the  manure  and  sand  then  thoroughly  incorporated 
with  it.  The  soil  in  which  the  young  stock  is  pricked  off  should 
have  the  addition  of  a  part  of  leaf-mould,  to  ensure  their  rooting 
quickly  in  it. 

The  pots  must  be  perfectly  clean  and  well  drained,  to  prevent 
the  soil  becoming  sour  and  waterlogged.  The  number  of  times  the 
stock  will  require  shitting  depends  upon  the  purpose  for  which  the 
respective  specimens  are  required  ;  two  shifts  will  be  sufficient  for 
those  intended  for  ordinary  conservatory  decoration  ;  but  specimens 
for  exhibition  must  have  three  shifts.  In  both  cases  they  should 
first  of  all  be  put  in  three-inch  pots,  and,  when  well  established, 
those  which  are  only  to  have  one  more  shift  should  be  transferred 
to  six-inch  pots,  and  the  others  into  five-inch  size ;  and  when 
repotted  again  put  into  pots  two  sizes  larger.  Those  which  are  to 
be  flowered  in  six-inch  pots  should  have  their  last  shift  in  the  early 
part  of  November,  and  the  others  about  the  middle  of  December. 
Each  batch  must  be  repotted  before  the  plants  become  pot-bound, 
because  of  the  danger  which  exists  of  throwing  them  into  flower 
prematurely.  The  soil  should  be  pressed  rather  firm,  but  hard- 
potting  must  be  avoided. 

A  cold  frame  placed  on  the  shady  side  of  a  wall  is  the  most 
suitable  position  for  the  stock  until  the  end  of  September,  as  it  can 
have  abundance  of  light  without  being  exposed  to  the  fierce  rays  of 
the  sun.  Erom  the  end  of  the  above-named  month  until  the 
flowers  begin  to  expand,  a  heated  store-pit  facing  the  south  is  the 
best  possible  position,  although  they  will  do  very  well  in  an  ordinary 
greenhouse,  provided  they  are  placed  near  the  glass,  and  not  exposed 
to  cold  winds  and  keen  draughts.  It  is  also  highly  important  to 
use  as  little  fire-heat  as  possible;  indeed,  just  sufficient  to  keep  out 
the  frost,  with  the  aid  of  a  covering  on  the  glass,  is  all  that  should 
be  employed.  "When  exposed  to  much  artificial  heat  the  leaves  will 
curl,  and  the  plants  nearly  or  quite  come  to  a  standstill.  On  the 
other  hand,  a  little  artificial  warmth  in  very  dull  and  damp  weather 
will  be  of  considerable  service  to  maintain  a  sweet  moving  atmo- 
sphere. 

Damp  and  mildew  are  the  principal  enemies  to  the  cineraria,  but 
both  are  easily  kept  in  check  if  taken  in  time.  The  best  remedy  for 
mildew  is  flour  of  sulphur  dusted  over  the  foliage,  and  for  the 
destruction  of  the  green-fly  nothing  can  equal  tobacco-powder.  The 
latter  should  be  applied  after  the  foliage  has  been  wetted  with  the 
syringe,  and  washed  off  again  in  about  twenty-four  hours  after- 
wards. Green-fly  can  be  destroyed  by  fumigating  with  tobacco- 
paper,  but  the  tobacco- powder  is  applied  more  easily,  and  there  is 
no  danger  whatever  attending  its  use  if  the  precaution  of  not  allow- 
ing it  to  remain  on  too  long  is  duly  observed. 

The  plants  must  be  watered  carefully  at  all  times,  especially 
durino-  the  winter.  They  must  have  sufficient  water  to  maintain  a 
vigorous  growth,  without  being  ke|>t  in  a  constantly  saturated  con- 
dition, and  no  more ;  but  they  must  not  under  any  consideration 
suffer  from  drought.      Use  soft  water  until  the  end  of  January,  and 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  145 

then  substitute  weak  liquid  manure  for  it.  The  plants  should  be 
.-syringed  lightly  overhead  in  the  afternoon,  previous  to  closing  the 
frames  for  the  night,  both  for  the  purpose  of  maintaining  a  genial 
growing  atmosphere,  and  for  keeping  the  foliage  free  from  dust  and 
insect  pests.  The  syringing  must  be  discontinued  after  the  end  of 
September,  as  the  water  which  runs  from  the  pots  will  be  sufficient 
to  maintain  a  proper  degree  of  moisture  in  the  atmosphere. 

Stop  the  portion  of  the  stock  intended  for  specimens  as  soon  as 
the  flower-stems  rise  ;  pinch  back  the  flower-stems  to  about  four  or 
five  joints,  and  peg  out  regularly  the  side-shoots  and  large  leaves  as 
the  growth  progresses.  The  former  will  also  require  tying  out  before 
the  flowers  begin  to  expand,  but  it  is  a  good  plan  to  commence  the 
training  early,  as  there  is  then  little  difficulty  in  putting  each  shoot 
in  its  proper  place,  and  practically  no  danger  of  their  being  broken 
when  tying  them  out.  A  well-grown  specimen,  when  the  flowers 
are  fully  expanded,  should  be  spherical  in  shape,  with  the  outside 
flowers  nearly  level  with  the  rim  of  the  pot.  Use  pegs  made 
from  galvanized  wire,  if  practicable,  but  wooden  ones  are  equally 
serviceable.  Seedlings  and  others  intended  for  blooming  early  must 
not  be  stopped  at  all. 

Where  seedlings  are  grown,  those  from  which  it  is  intended  to 
save  seed  should,  as  soon  as  the  first  flowers  are  expanded,  be  re- 
moved.from  the  general  stock,  and  placed  in  a  frame  by  themselves 
to  prevent  their  being  fertilized  with  pollen  from  the  worthless  sorts. 
This  is  a  very  easy  matter,  because  a  very  few  plants  will  furnish  an 
ample  supply  of  seed  for  the  generality  of  gardens.  The  seed  should 
be  saved  from  plants  compact  in  habit,  and  with  well-formed 
distinctly-coloured  flowers.  Where  seed  is  saved  from  a  collection 
of  first-rate  named  varieties,  it  will  not  be  necessary  to  separate  the 
seed-bearing  plants  from  the  general  stock.  As  the  flowers  begin 
to  fade,  place  the  plants  in  a  light  airy  position  to  insure  the  seed 
being  thoroughly  matured,  and  gather  before  it  is  blown  away 
and  lost. 

Sow  the  seed  in  the  first  or  second  week  in  July  in  five-inch 
pots.  Make  the  surface  perfectly  level,  and  cover  with  a  very  thin 
layer  of  sandy  soil.  The  pots  should  then  be  placed  in  a  cold 
frame,  and  constantly  shaded  from  the  sun  until  the  young  plants 
begin  to  show  above  the  surface,  when  the  supply  of  light  and  air 
must  be  increased.  Directly  the  seedlings  have  two  rough  leaves, 
prick  off  into  seed-pans  or  round  the  sides  of  the  same-sized  pots, 
and  in  the  same  manner  as  advised  for  the  offsets ;  and,  like  the 
latter,  they  must  be  potted  off  as  soon  as  established. 

The  following  are  the  best  varieties  at  pre.-ent  in  commerce,  and 
will  form  a  good  collection  to  begin  with.  If  purchased  at  once  a 
stock  of  each  sort  may  be  obtained  for  next  year;  and  it  will  be  the 
cheapest  in  the  end,  even  if  they  cost  more  than  they  would  in  the 
autumn,  because  the  plants  at  the  latter  period  would,  in  all  proba- 
bility, be  too  small  to  make  much  of  a  display  the  following  season. 
The  names  and  colours  are  as  follows : — Jgrippa,  white,  with  rosy 
crimson  margin  ;  Auricula,  white,  blue  margin  ;  Blue  Beard  deep 
blue  ;   Celestial,  white,  narrow  margin  and  blue  disk  ;   Chancellor  rich 

VOL.  VI. — NO.  Y.  10 


146 


THE    FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 


purplish  crimson,  narrow  ring  of  wbite  round  the  disk ;  Duke  of 
Cambridge,  crimson  self;  Flora,  pure  wbite,  crimson  edge  ;  Herbert, 
white,  blue  edge  ;  Lord  Amberley,  rich  plum  ;  Orb  of  Bay,  crimson, 
wbite  ring  round  tbe  disk ;  Pandora,  white,  tipped  with  claret ; 
President,  rich  plum,  wbite  ring  round  the  disk ;  Queen  Victoria, 
crimson,  witb  white  ring ;  Reynold's  Hole,  bright  crimson ;  Snow- 
fiake,  pure  white ;  Uncle  Toby,  deep  purple  self;  Vesuvius,  magenta 
crimson. 


CANNELL'S  NEW  BOILEE. 

LTHOUGH  there  is  no  lack  of  good  boilers  for  heating 
horticultural  structures,  the  new  boiler,  or  "  Hot-water 
Circulator,"  invented  and  recently  introduced  to  public 
notice  by  Mr.  Cannell,  The  Nurseries,  Station  Road, 
Woolwich,  is  deserving  of  the  careful  attention  of  all 
who  depend  upon  the  aid  of  artificial  heat  in  the  cultivation  of 
plants,  fruits,  and  vegetables.  The  chief  merits  of  the  invention 
consist  in  its  being  constructed  so  that  the  whole  of  tbe  caloric  or 
heat  which  the  fuel  contains,  excepting  just  sufficient  to  carry  off 
the   smoke,   is   extracted  aud   carried  to   the  water  ;  in   its   being 


If9  i  Size 
Boiler. 


manufactured  in  the  best  manner  possible,  to  secure  equal  strength 
in  all  the  parts  ;  and  in  its  being  cast  in  separate  sections  to  admit 
of  any  part  being  replaced  when  worn  out,  without  the  necessity  of 
having  an  entirely  new  boiler. 

Eig.  1  is  a  sketch  of  a  full-gized  boiler,  with  the  several  sections  ele- 
vated to  showthe  peculiarity  of  its  construction,  and  the  ease  with  which 


THE    FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 


147 


Fig.  2. 


it  can  be  taken  to  pieces  when  required.  Fig.  2  is  intended  to  show- 
that  when  the  extent  of  the  piping  is  not  large  the  boiler  may  be 
worked  in  much  the  same  manner  as  the  old  Saddle-back,  and  its 
heating  capacity  increased  by  the  addition,  first,  of  the  two  ends, 
and  then  the  top  sections,  according 
to  the  extra  work  put  upon  it  by 
the  increase  of  piping.  The  several 
compartments  are  connected  to- 
gether with  the  patent  joint  shown 
on  the  left  hand  of  Fig.  1,  which 
admits  of  their  being  separated  or 
put  together  in  a  very  short  space 
of  time. 

The  following  description,  in 
connection  with  the  illustrations, 
will,  we  hope,  convey  a  clear  idea 
of  the  details  of  the  construction 
of  the  boiler : — 

The  boiler  consists  of  niue  or 
more  separate  hollow  castings,  placed  one  upon  another.  Upon 
brickwork  is  placed  the  basement,  or  No.  1  casting,  consisting  of  a 
hollow  rectangular  frame,  in  which  are  fixed  eight  (more  or  less, 
according  to  the  size  of  boiler)  circular  hollow  fire-bars,  placed 
at  such  a  distance  from  one  another  as  to  allow  sufficient  space 
for  the  draught.  At  the  back  or  farther  end  of  this  casting 
are  the  return  pipes,  and  in  the  front  the  discharge  pipe  for 
cleansing  the  interior  of  the  boiler  at  any  time.  The  ashpit  is 
formed  by  the  brickwork  supporting  the  first  or  basement  casting, 
and  is  enclosed  by  a  door  hung  on  a  solid  cast-iron  frame  built 
into  the  brickwork  or  otherwise.  The  furnace-door  is  to  be  hung  in 
the  same  way. 

Upon  the  first  casting  four  other  separate  hollow  castings  are 
placed,  of  which  Nos.  2  and  3,  forming  the  sides  of  the  furnace,  are 
fluted  and  placed  parallel  with  the  hollow  fire-bars,  and  are  of  such 
a  length  that  the  two  remaining  castings,  Nos.  4  and  5,  which  form 
respectively  the  back  and  front  of  the  apparatus,  may  be  flush  with 
the  ends  of  the  first  casting.  The  back,  or  No.  4  casting,  is  large 
enough  to  cover  the  whole  or  part  of  the  end  of  the  apparatus,  and 
is  connected  at  the  bottom  by  pipes  with  castings  Nos.  2  and  3 
respectively,  and  at  the  top  on  each  side  with  casting  No.  11,  which 
will  be  afterwards  described.  The  front  casting,  No.  5,  must  be  of 
such  a  height  that  the  top  will  be  level  with  the  top  of  No.  6, 
forming  the  top  of  the  furnace.  The  front  is  built  up  with  brick- 
work, with  three  sliding  soot-doors  to  allow  the  flues  to  be  properly 
cleaned  out.  This  front,  or  No.  5  casting,  is  connected  at  the 
bottom  by  pipes  with  castings  Nos.  2  and  3,  and  at  the  top  on  each 
side  with  casting  No.  G.  Upon  the  top  of  castings  Nos.  2  aud  3  is 
placed  a  sixth  further  and  separate  hollow  fluted  casting;,  forming 
the  top  of  the  furnace,  having  a  space  left  at  the  back  opening 
upwards,  to  allow  a  free  passage  for  the  fire  to  pass  out  of  the 
furnace  under  a  separate  aud  hollow  casting  (No.  7),  which  when 


148  THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

fixed  forms  two  flues  communicating,  by  means  of  other  flues 
formed  by  similar  castings,  and  terminating  in  a  rectangular  opening 
at  the  top  for  regulating  the  draught,  and  for  the  passage  of  the 
smoke  into  the  chimney. 

The  circulation  of  the  water  from  and  into  every  separate  hollow 
casting  is  effected  by  means  of  four  sets  of  pipes  affixed  externally  to 
the  castings,  two  sets  being  placed  on  each  side  of  the  apparatus. 
If  desired,  the  crown  or  top  casting  with  the  flow-pipe  can  be 
placed  upon  No.  2  or  3  casting,  and  worked  without  the  flues  until 
required.  The  flame  or  hot  air  from  the  fire  placed  on  the  hollow 
bars  will  pass  between  castings  .Nos.  2  and  3,  until  it  arrives  at 
the  opening,  previously  described  to  be  left  at  the  back  of  casting  No.  0, 
where  it  will  divide,  and  pass  upwards  towards  the  front  through 
the  two  flues  formed  by  casting  No.  7.  It  will  then  return  towards 
the  back  through  the  two  flues  formed  by  casting  No.  8,  again 
uniting  and  passing  upwards  into  the  flues  formed  by  castings 
Nos.  9  and  10,  the  heat  thus  continuing  to  travel  through  the  cast- 
ings Nos.  9,  10,  and  11  in  the  same  way,  so  that  the  hot  air  will  pass 
six  times  through  the  internal  length  of  the  apparatus  before  escaping 
into  the  chimney. 


CUT  FLOWERS  FOR  BOUQUETS  AND  VASES. 

[N  carrying  out  the  modern  system  of  bedding,  with  its 
ribbon  borders,  panel  beds,  and  leaf  embroidery,  it  is 
necessary  to  employ  almost  exclusively  a  class  of  plants 
that  do  not  produce  flowers  well  adapted  for  bouquets 
and  for  filling  vases.  Therefore,  where  the  greater  portion 
of  the  garden  is  devoted  to  that  style  of  bedding,  and  there  is  not  a  good 
collection  of  summer  and  autumn  flowering  plants  under  glass,  it  is 
most  difficult  to  obtain  a  plentiful  supply  of  flowers  for  the  vases 
during  these  seasons.  Indeed,  a  lady  friend  of  mine,  who  has  a 
much  larger  garden  than  ours,  but  which  is  almost  exclusively 
devoted  to  summer  bedders,  assured  me  that  she  had  the  greatest 
difficulty  in  keeping  the  vases  properly  filled,  and  was  surprised  to 
see  how  beautifully  ours  were  arranged  at  all  times.  She  could  not 
understand  where  we  could  obtain  the  flowers  from,  until  she  was 
taken  to  a  retired  part  of  the  pleasure  grounds  and  shown  the  little 
border  set  apart  for  the  cultivation  of  plants  expressly  for  the  sup- 
ply of  cut  flowers  for  indoor  apartments.  Since  last  autumn  she 
has  had  a  border  prepared  in  a  similar  manner,  which  she  intends 
keeping  entirely  for  herself.  Were  this  to  be  done  in  all  gardens 
where  cut  flowers  are  in  request,  much  vexation  between  the  gardener 
and  his  employers  would  be  avoided  ;  the  employer  would  be  saved 
the  annoyance  of  not  having  sufficient,  and  the  gardener  the  vexa- 
tion of  having  the  flowers  stripped  off  plants  in  beds  occupying 
prominent  positions.  It  is  not  an  easy  task  to  make  out  a  complete 
list  of  plants  suitable  for  the  end  in  view ;  indeed,  I  shall  not 
attempt  it,  and  shall  content  myself  with  enumerating  the  best  of 


THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND   GARDEN   GUIDE.  149 

those  we  have  hitherto  grown.  The  list  is  certainly  not  so  complete 
as  I  should  like,  and  I  do  hope  that  some  of  the  many  thousands 
who  read  it  will  lend  a  helping  hand  to  make  it  complete,  and  send 
the  names  of  any  of  the  plants  they  have  found  well  suited  for  the 
purpose  for  which  they  are  intended.  For  the  assistance  of  lady 
readers,  and  others  not  well  acquainted  with  flowers,  I  shall  divide 
the  list  into  sections  as  follows  : — 

Annuals. — Asters  in  variety  ;  Tro/ffaufs  Perfection  Posony,  Dwarf 
Pyramidal  Perfection,  and  Victoria  Asters,  are  probably  the  best  to 
grow  to  cut  from.  Calliopsis  bicolor  grandiflora,  C.  b.  marmorata, 
G.  b.  nigra  speciosa,  C.  coronata ;  Fragrant  White,  Dark  Crimson 
Flesh,  and  Purple  Candytuft ;  Eocket  and  Candelabrum  floivered 
Larkspurs  ;  Linum  grandiflorum ;  Lupins  in  variety ;  Mignonette 
eximea,  M.  ameliorata ;  Sweet  Peas  in  variety ;  Phlox  Drummondi 
in  variety  ;  Schizanthus  Grahami,  8.  pinnatus,  8.  retusus ;  Senecio 
elegans  in  variety ;  German  and  English  Ten-week  and  New  Large- 
flowering  Pyramidal  Stocks,  Night  Scented  Stock;  Zinnia  elegans  in 
variety.  All  the  above  may  be  raised  from  seed  sown  in  the  spring, 
either  in  the  cold  frame  or  open  ground.  Where  any  of  the  above 
may  be  had  "  in  variety,"  a  packet  of  mixed  seed  will  suffice, 
although  in  a  few  cases  it  would  be  preferable  to  have  the  colours 
separately.  The  Stocks  and  Asters  should  be  planted  in  favourable 
positions. 

Half  Hardy  Plants. — Ageratum  Prince  Alfred  and  Mexicanum ; 
Bouvardia  angustifolia,  E>.  elegans,  B.  Hogarth,  B.  Jasminoides  ; 
(these  must  be  planted  in  a  warm  sunny  situation)  ;  Pompone  Dah- 
lias ;  hleliotropium  Jersey  Beauty,  Miss  Nightingale,  and  Surpasse 
Guascoi ;  Pelargonium  Eollissons  Unique;  Double- flowering  zonal 
Pelargoniums,  C.  Glynn,  Gaptaine  I'Hermite,  Marie  Lemoine,  Victor 
Lemoine,  and  TVillhelm  Pfltzer  (these  should  be  plunged  in  the 
pots)  ;  Salvia  coccinea,  and  Veronica  Blue  Gem.  The  foregoing  should 
be  planted  out  at  the  same  time  as  the  ordinary  bedding  plants. 
Verbenas  and  single-flowering  zonal  Pelargoniums  are  omitted 
because  they  will  be  in  abundance  in  other  parts  of  the  garden,  and 
they  do  not  remain  in  good  condition  sufficiently  long  after  they  are 
cut  to  admit  of  their  being  considered  first-rate. 

Hardy  Herbaceous  Plants. — Antirrhinums  in  variety  ;  Aster 
dumosus,  A.  formosus,  A.  Nova  Anglice,  A.  Nova  Belgice ;  Carnations, 
including  the  Clove-scented  varieties  (seedlings  which  are  usually 
sold  at  a  cheap  rate  are  suitable  to  cut  from) ;  Cheiranthus  Cheiri 
luteus,  fl.pl.,  C.  G.  pur pureus,  fl.pl. ;  Lily  of  the  Valley  ;  Delphiniums 
in  variety ;  Dianthus  barbatus,  D.  hybridus  in  variety,  D.  lacinatus, 
D.  Heddewigi,  D.  JL.  diadematus  ;  Snowdrops  ;  Gladiolus  of  all  kinds 
(Brenchleyensis,floribundus,yaridavensis,  and  ramosus,  are  wonderfully 
cheap,  and  valuable  for  cutting,  although  not  equal  to  the  many 
splendid  varieties  now  in  cultivation)  ;  Everlasting  Peas ;  Forget- 
me-nots  ;  Lilium  candidum  (the  common  white) ;  L.  longiflorum ; 
Lychnis  Chalcedonica,  L.  Haageana ;  Herbaceous  Lobelias ;  Muscari 
in  variety;  all  the  Narcissus;  Primula  acaulis  and  P.  elatior 
in  variety;  Spires  filipendula,fl. pi.,  S.  uhnaria,fl.  pi.;  Veronicas; 
Violets. 

O.  P.  Q. 


150  THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE, 

PLUMBAGO  CAPENSIS. 

BY   EOBEBT    OTJBBIDGE, 

Church  Walk  Nursery,  Stoke  Newington,  N. 

OW  that  preparation  for  the  summer  bedding  is  in  active 
progress,  it  appears  desirable  to  direct  attention  to  this 
fine  old  plant,  which  is  now  seldom  grown,  because  so 
few  of  the  modern  flower  gardeners  are  acquainted 
with  its  merits.  It  is  perhaps  one  of  the  most  valuable 
of  all  plants  for  furnishing  a  supply  of  cut  flowers  for  bouquets  and 
other  uses  to  which  they  are  put ;  not  only  because  of  the  adapt- 
ability of  the  flower  for  working  up  with  other  flowers,  and  the 
profusion  with  which  they  are  produced,  but  because  of  their 
peculiar  delicacy  of  colour  and  thorough  distinctness  from  all  others 
that  may  be  used  for  the  same  purposes.  The  reason  that  it  is  so 
seldom  planted  out  in  the  open  border  is  undoubtedly  due  to  its 
being  generally  believed  that  it  must  have  the  protection  of  glass  at 
all  seasons  of  the  year.  It  is  certainly  not  so  hardy  as  many  other 
plants  employed  in  flower  garden  decoration,  but  it  is  hardy  enough 
to  grow  well  and  flower  freely  during  the  summer  and  autumn 
months,  when  planted  in  a  warm,  sunny  situation.  The  most  suitable 
position  for  planting  it  when  grown  expressly  for  supplying  cut 
flowers  is  against  a  wall  facing  nearly  or  quite  due  south. 

Previous  to  planting,  a  few  shovelfuls  of  either  manure,  leaf- 
mould,  or  fresh  loam,  or  a  combination  of  all  three,  should  be  mixed 
with  the  staple  soil  to  give  the  plants  a  good  start.  The  plants  can  of 
course  be  put  out  without  any  preparation,  but  no  one  can  object  to 
the  little  trouble  occasioned  in  preparing  the  ground  as  here  directed. 
It  is  of  no  consequence  whether  the  plants  are  young  or  old,  but 
preference  should  be  given  to  the  latter  if  in  good  health,  because 
even  if  they  are  thin  and  scrubby  in  appearance,  they  will  rapidly  fill 
out  and  soon  begin  to  bloom  freely.  A  few  liberal  soakings  of  water, 
and  training  the  young  growth  to  the  wall  are  all  the  attentions 
that  will  be  required  after  they  are  planted. 

They  are  very  valuable  for  edging  beds  in  the  flower  garden 
which  are  filled  with  rather  tall-growing  subjects,  but  they  will 
require  pegging  down.  A  few  plants  put  round  the  outside  of  beds 
filled  with  mixed  subtropieals  have  a  very  pretty  appearance,  with 
the  flowers  peeping  out  here  and  there  from  the  masses  of  foliage, 
The  best  way  of  employing  them  is  perhaps  planting  alternately  with 
the  scarlet-flowered  Bouvardias  such  as  Elegans  and  Hogarth.  The 
Bouvardias  should  be  planted  rather  farther  apart  than  would  be 
desirable  if  the  bed  was  to  be  filled  entirely  with  them,  and  the 
Plumbago  planted  close  enough  together,  so  that  in  a  short  time 
they  will  completely  cover  the  surface.  Young  plants  should  of 
course  be  selected,  and  the  young  growth  pegged  down  in  much  the 
same  way  as  verbenas.  If  they  grow  too  vigorously,  and  appear 
likely  to  smother  the  Bouvardias,  the  shoots  must  be  thinned  out. 


THE    FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN   GUIDE.  151 

Merely  stopping  them  will  make  matters  worse,  as  it  will  put  a  stop 
to  the  flowers,  and,  at  the  same  time,  encourage  the  production  of 
more  wood.  The  beds  should  be  in  an  opeu  and  sunny  situation,  as 
much  for  the  sake  of  the  Bouvardiaa  as  for  the  Plumbagos,  because 
both  require  a  liberal  degree  of  warmth  to  do  them  justice.  The 
bed  should  also  be  raised  a  few  inches  above  the  general  level,  to 
enable  the  soil  to  become  warmed  from  the  action  of  the  sun  on  the 
raised  sides.  The  close-growing  Antennaria  tomentosa,  or  either 
Sempervivum  Galifomicum  or  Echeverla  secunda  glauca,  planted  on 
the  sloping  sides  will  effectually  keep  the  soil  in  its  place. 


THE  GAEDEN  GUIDE  FOE  MAY. 

Flower  Garden. — The  annuals  sown  last  month  must  be 
thinned  before  they  are  spoilt  from  overcrowding.  Take  up  pri- 
mulas, polyanthuses,  daisies,  and  other  spring- flowering  plants,  from 
the  beds,  as  they  go  out  of  flower,  and  divide,  and  plant  in  reserve 
border  for  next  year.  A  partially-shaded  position  is  best  for  these 
subjects  through  the  summer.  Plant  in  rows,  a  foot  apart,  and  six 
inches  from  plant  to  plant  in  the  rows.  Asters,  stocks,  zinnias,  and 
other  hardy  and  half-hardy  annuals,  can  be  sown  in  the  open  ground 
now.  Harden  off  those  sown  under  glass,  and  get  them  planted  as 
speedily  as  possible.  All  the  ordinary  bedding  stuff  ought  to  have 
been  in  cradles  out  of  doors,  or  the  lights  drawn  entirely  off  those 
in  frames,  for  the  last  fortnight  at  least.  Subtropical  plants,  of  a 
tender  constitution,  intended  for  the  decoration  of  the  flower  garden, 
must  have  free  exposure  to  the  air,  to  fit  them  for  going  out  next 
month.  Thin  the  buds  of  pinks,  picotees,  and  carnations,  and 
shade  those  intended  for  exhibition.  Eemove  auriculas  to  a  shady 
position,  if  not  already  done.  Nip  off  the  flower  trusses  as  the 
flowers  fade,  unless  it  is  intended  to  save  seed,  for  seed-bearing 
weakens  the  plants.  Trim  up  the  grass  verges,  and  mow  and  roll 
the  lawn,  to  promote  a  close  bottom,  and  give  everything  a  fresh  and 
bright  appearance.  The  end  of  the  month  will  be  soon  enough  to 
begin  bedding  out. 

Kitchen  Garden. — As  weeds  grow  with  great  rapidity  at  this 
season  of  the  year,  every  exertion  must  be  made  to  keep  them  down, 
or  they  will  fill  the  ground  with  seeds.  Thin  out  all  permanent 
seed-beds,  such  as  onions,  carrots,  etc.,  and  plant  out  broccoli, 
cauliflowers,  cabbage,  kales,  etc.,  for  the  whiter,  as  the  plants  grow 
large  enough  to  transplant,  before  they  get  too  much  crowded. 
Sow  scarlet-runners,  dwarf  French  beans,  beet,  turnips,  spinach, 
endive,  and  lettuce;  the  last  two  should  be  sown  where  they  are  to 
remain,  to  prevent  their  running  to  seed  so  quickly,  as  is  the  case 
when  sown  in  beds  and  transplanted.  Also  sow  marrow  peas,  and 
earth  up  and  stick  those  already  forward  enough.  Peas  do  best 
sown  in  trenches  through  summer ;  they  should  be  made  in  much 
the  same  manner  as  for  celery,  but  rather  broader,  and  not  quite  so 
deep.     Prick   out   the   late   sown  celery,  and  make  trenches,  and 


152  THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

plant  out  the  earliest  batch.  Shade  with  a  few  branches  of  ever- 
greens for  a  few  days  after  planting,  and  keep  well  supplied  with 
water. 

Fruit  Garden. — "When  disbudding  the  wall-trees,  avoid  de- 
nuding the  trees  too  much  at  one  time ;  remove  the  foreright  shoots 
first,  and  then  begin  again,  and  remove  those  not  required  for 
training  in.  Proceed  cautiously  with  thinning  the  fruit  until  the 
end  of  the  month.  Bush  and  pyramid  trees  must  have  their  shoots 
thinned  out,  where  too  crowded,  and  those  remaining  pinched  back 
to  the  third  or  fourth  leaf,  Remove  the  runners  from  the  straw- 
berry plants  directly  they  push,  if  not  wanted  for  layering,  or  the 
parent  plants  will  soon  be  choked  up  with  the  young  brood.  "Wash 
all  the  trees  on  the  walls,  and  those  trained  as  pyramids,  frequently 
with  the  garden  engine. 

Conservatory.—  Now  that  the  frames  are  clear  of  the  hosts  of 
bedding  plants  with  which  they  have  been  filled  through  the  winter, 
all  small  soft-wooded  stuff  should  be  removed  to  them,  and  hard- 
wooded  plants  must  have  light  and  air,  now  that  they  are  growing 
freely.  Azaleas  and  camellias  require  a  warm,  moist  atmosphere 
when  making  their  growth,  and  to  have  plenty  of  air  directly  it  is 
made.  Freely  ventilate  New  Holland  plants  of  every  description, 
and  attend  carefully  to  the  watering,  and  be  particular  that  each  has 
sufficient  to  moisten  every  particle  of  the  soil  in  the  pot.  Shift  and 
stop  fuchsias  and  petunias  ;  water  them  with  manure-water  as  they 
get  pot-bound. 

Stove. — Large  numbers  of  orchidaceous  plants  will  now  be  in 
flower,  and  every  means,  consistent  with  the  health  of  the  plants, 
must  be  adopted  to  preserve  the  freshness  aud  beauty  of  the  flowers 
as  long  as  possible.  A  cool,  dry  atmosphere  is  necessary  for  this 
purpose.  Shift  those  iu  the  hottest  house  into  the  cool  house,  and 
those  from  the  cool  house  into  the  greenhouse,  where  they  can  be 
shaded  and  kept  close;  for,  on  no  account,  must  the  plants  be 
exposed  to  currents  of  air.  Plenty  of  moisture  at  the  roots,  and  in 
the  atmosjmere,  will  be  necessary  for  growing  plants.  Gesneras 
and  other  plants,  iutended  for  winter  blooming,  must  soon  have 
their  last  shift.  Shade  during  bright  sunshine,  and  place  those  in 
flower  by  themselves,  so  that  the  flowers  receive  no  injury  from  the 
syringing,  which  has  now  become  a  daily  necessity.  Ventilate  freely, 
and  shut  up  early  in  the  afternoon. 

Forcing. — Inside  vine  borders  must  be  liberally  supplied  with 
water,  where  the  crops  are  swelling,  and  the  atmosphere  kept  moist 
by  throwing  water  on  the  paths,  and  sprinkling  the  bed  and  walls. 
Where  the  grapes  are  colouring,  give  abundant  ventilation,  and 
keep  the  atmosphere  dry.  The  crops  should  be  watched,  and  the 
border  have  a  good  soaking  just  before  the  grapes  commence  colour- 
ing, so  that  no  more  is  required  until  that  process  is  finished.  Shift 
on  young  vines  in  pots,  and  help  those  bearing  young  crops  with 
man  ure- water.  Peaches,  nectarines,  cherries,  and  figs,  swelling 
fruit,  to  have  an  increased  temperature,  with  plenty  of  water  at  the 
roots,  and  a  thorough  syringing  twice  a  day.  Crops  of  these  in  a 
more  advanced  stage,  which  are  beginning  to  ripen,  must  have  less 


THE  FLORAL    WORLD   AND   GARDEN    GUIDE.  153 

moisture  above,  and  more  below.  Cucumbers  and  melons  require 
regular  attention  in  stopping  and  training.  Where  the  heat  is 
maintained  by  means  of  hot  manure,  add  fresh  linings  directly  it 
begins  to  decline.  Give  plenty  of  air,  to  render  shading  unneces- 
sary. 

Pits  and  Frames. — Give  all  the  air  possible  to  vegetable 
marrows,  tomatoes,  ridge  cucumbers,  and  chilies.  It  is  a  capital 
plan,  where  any  of  these  subjects  are  required  early,  to  shift  them 
into  eight-inch  pots,  and  keep  them  growiug  until  the  time  arrives 
for  planting  out;  it  makes  a  month's  difference  in  their  time  of 
coming  into  bearing,  when  strong  plants  are  turned  out,  instead  of 
poor  little  starved  ones. 


HOETI CULTURAL  NOTES. 


(IPEIN1  G  FLOWEES  do  not  lack  encouragement  so  far 
as  the  leading  Horticultural  Societies  are  concerned, 
supposing  their  proceedings  to  encourage  them,  for 
during  the  past  month  we  have  had  no  less  than 
three  exhibitions  in  the  metropolis,  besides  those 
held  in  the  provinces.  Two  of  the  London  shows  were  held  in 
the  gardens  of  the  Eoyal  Horticultural  Society  at  South  Kensington, 
and  one  in  the  gardens  of  the  Eoyal  Botanic  Society  in  Eegent's 
Park.  The  first  of  the  Kensington  exhibitions,  held  April  5,  was 
devoted  to  Cyclamens  and  Cinerarias,  and  Amaryllis;  and  the 
second,  which  was  held  April  19,  to  Auriculas  and  Azaleas.  The 
Regent's  Park  Show,  held  April  11,  included  spring  flowers  generally. 
To  deal  with  any  of  them  in  detail  is  quite  unnecessary,  and  there- 
fore only  mention  will  be  made  of  a  few  of  the  most  important 
matters  that  were  brought  forward  at  the  several  shows. 

April  is,  undoubtedly,  too  late  to  see  the  varieties  of  Cyclamen  persi- 
cum  in  perfection  ;  hence  it  was  not  a  matter  for  surprise  to  find  that 
the  dark  flowers  had  lost  much  of  their  freshness,  and  presented  a 
faded  appearance  compared  with  what  they  were  a  month  or  six  weeks 
previously.  Of  these  beautiful  flowers,  Mr.  James,  gardener  to 
W.  F.Watson,  Esq.,  Redlees,  Isleworth,  and  Mr.  Goddard,  gardener 
to  H.  Little,  Esq.,  Cambridge  Park,  Twickenham,  came  out  in  strong 
force,  and  carried  all  before  them,  and  ran  each  other  a  very  close 
race  in  the  classes  in  which  they  competed  together.  Indeed,  the 
competition  was  so  close  between  them,  that  Mr.  James  was  first, 
with  Mr.  Goddard  second,  and  in  the  class  for  six  their  positions 
were  exactly  reversed,  and  Mr.  Goddard  was  also  first  for  an  un- 
limited collection.  The  varieties  in  the  collections  shown  by  Mr. 
James  were  chiefly  light  flowered,  but  of  the  most  excellent  quality  ; 
and  on  the  other  hand,  the  collections  put  up  by  Mr.  Goddard, 
especially  the  larger  ones,  comprised  some  of  the  very  best  dark 
flowers  ever  exhibited,  and  to  say  too  much  in  their  praise  would 
be  well  nigh  impossible.  Mr.  Edmonds,  nurseryman,  of  Hayes 
Common,  Middlesex,  who  has  probably  done  more  than  any  other 


154  THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

member  of  the  trade  in  the  improvement  of  the  Cyclamen,  exhibited 
a  grand  group  of  medium-sized  plants,  which  were  so  brilliant  in 
colour  as  to  quite  astonish  those  who  had  only  been  accustomed  to 
the  common  varieties  in  cultivation.  To  overpraLe  Cyclamens  for 
winter  decoration  would  be  difficult,  and  those  who  are  anxious  to 
obtain  the  greatest  amount  of  pleasure  possible  from  their  cultiva- 
tion, should  first  secure  seed  from  a  first-rate  strain,  and  then  save 
seed  from  the  very  best  flowers  they  have  in  their  collection.  Seed- 
bearing  is,  however,  very  injurious  to  the  health  of  the  plants,  and 
not  more  than  two  pods  of  seed  should  be  allowed  to  mature  on  each 
plant,  because  if  more  than  that  number  is  allowed  to  remain,  the 
plants  will  in  all  probability  break  badly  the  following  season,  and 
those  that  are  the  most  heavily  taxed  will  in  all  probability  entirely 
perish. 

The  only  exhibitor  of  Amaryllis  was  Mr.  Baxter,  gardener  to 
C.  Keiser,  Esq.,  Broxbourne,  who  is  undoubtedly  the  most  successful 
grower  of  there  gorgeous  flowers  we  have,  for  he  has  taken  all 
the  first  prizes  offered  by  the  London  Societies,  both  this  season 
and  last,  and  with  plants  that  have  certainly  not  been  surpassed. 
It  would  serve  no  useful  purpose  to  give  the  names  of  the  varieties 
staged  by  Mr.  Baxter,  because  he  has  been  most  successful  in  raising 
new  varieties,  and  the  collections  staged  consisted  entirely  of  varieties 
of  his  own  raising,  many  of  which  have  received  first-class  certificates. 
As  Mr.  Baxter  contributed  a  paper  on  the  cultivation  of  these  plants 
in  the  Floral  World  for  August,  1869,  there  is  no  reason  why 
all  who  read  this,  provided,  of  course,  they  have  the  convenience, 
should  not  he  as  successful  as  himself  in  cultivating  them.  It  is 
very  generally  supposed  that  a  very  high  temperature  is  essential  to 
a  vigorous  growth,  but  it  will  be  recollected  that  in  the  paper 
referred  to  it  is  distinctly  stated  that  a  temperature  intermediate 
between  the  greenhouse  and  stove  is  all  that  is  required. 

Many  other  interesting  things  were  shown,  but,  excepting  the 
fine  collection  of  hardy  herbaceous  plants  from  Mr.  AYare,  of  the 
Hale  Farm  Nurseries,  Tottenham,  and  the  collections  of  Pot  Boses 
from  Mr.  W.  Paul,  Waltham,  and  Messrs.  Veitch  and  Son,  Chelsea, 
they  were  not  of  sufficient  importance  to  merit  attention  here.  It 
is  worthy  of  remark,  however,  that  in  the  competition  for  the  prizes 
offered  for  Cucumbers,  both  first  and  second  prizes  for  white-spined 
varieties  were  awarded  to  Blue  Gown,  a  fine  variety  sent  out  by  Mr. 
Turner,  of  Slough,  which  is  unquestionably  the  finest  cucumber  of 
its  class  for  exhibition  yet  sent  out.  This  cucumber  averages  an  inch 
and  a-half  in  diameter  and  twenty-four  inches  long,  is  very  smooth, 
with  scarcely  any  handle,  and  with  proper  care  can  be  had  as  straight 
as  a  gun-barrel.  At  the  last  meeting  at  Kensington  Mr.  Turner 
exhibited  a  plant  of  Turner's  Prolific  Black  Spine,  growing  in 
a  ten-inch  pot,  to  show  its  productive  qualities.  The  plant,  although 
only  about  thirty  inches  in  height,  had  nine  or  ten  fruit,  averaging 
twelve  inches  in  length,  and  most  of  them  were  full  grown.  A 
better  proof  of  its  productiveness  could  not  possibly  be  had,  and  as 
the  fruit  is  of  excellent  flavour,  it  can  be  highly  recommended  for 
ordinary  consumption.     Long  cucumbers,   excepting  for  exhibition, 


THE    FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  155 

are  not  desirable,  because  they  are  seldom  remarkable  for  produc- 
tiveness, and  it  is  much  better  to  have  two  fruit  twelve  inches  in 
length  than  one  eighteen  inches.  For  a  companion  to  Turner's 
Prolific,  Masters's  Prolific,  a  most  excellent  and  free-bearing  white- 
spined  variety,  can  be  highly  recommended.  Indeed,  it  is  such  a 
good  cropper  that  a  very  small  amount  of  frame  or  house-room  will 
suffice  to  maintain  a  regular  supply  throughout  the  season. 

The  most  important  contributions  to  the  exhibition  of  the  Royal 
Botanic  Society,  held  April  12  and  13,  were  the  Pot  Roses,  green- 
house Azaleas  and  Cinerarias,  and  hardy  Herbaceous  plants.  The 
competition  in  the  classes  for  roses  was  remarkably  spirited,  although 
the  number  of  exhibitors  was  not  large.  The  two  leading  trade 
exhibitors  were  Mr.  C.  Turner,  Slough,  and  Messrs.  Paul  and  Sons, 
Cheshunt,  whose  collections  were  very  evenly  matched  ;  but  there 
can  be  no  doubt  that  the  first  prize  was  most  deservedly  awarded 
to  the  collection  from  Mr.  Turner.  As  a  guide  to  rose-growers,  it 
will  be  well  to  give  the  names  of  the  varieties  shown  in  the  two 
collections,  which,  it  is  hardly  necessary  to  say,  are  first-rate  for  pot- 
culture.  The  collection  staged  by  Mr.  Turner  comprised  examples 
of  Anna  Alexieff,  Miss  Ingram,  Marie  Baumann,  Souvenir  d'un  Ami, 
Marechal  Vaillant,  La  France,  Celine  Forrestier,  Victor  Verdier, 
Princess  Mary  of  Cambridge.  The  varieties  in  the  Cheshunt  collec- 
tion were  Madame  Victor  Verdier,  Madame  de  St.  Joseph,  Dr.  Andry, 
Charles  Lefebvre,  Souvenir  d'Elise,  John  Hopper,  Horace  Vernet, 
Juno,  and  Marechal  Niel.  The  leading  amateur  exhibitors  of  roses 
were  Mr.  Baxter,  gardener  to  C.  Keiser,  Esq.,  Broxbourne,  and  Mr. 
James,  gardener  to  W.  F.  "Watson,  Esq.,  Isleworth,  who  were  first 
and  second  respectively  in  the  class  for  six,  with  well-grown  examples 
of  the  leading  kinds. 

Spring-flowering  hardy  herbaceous  plants  are  so  beautiful  when 
grown  in  pots  under  glass,  and  require  so  little  skill  to  manage 
them  properly,  that  it  will  be  useful  to  many  to  mention  that  the 
splendid  collection  with  which  Mr.  Ware  carried  off  the  first  prize, 
consisted  of  Spiraea  japonica,  Dielytra  spectabilis,-  Polemonium 
reptans,  Polvgouatum  multiflorum,  Triteleia  uniflora,  Primula  cor- 
tusoides  amcena  lilncina,  P.  cortusoides  intermedia  ;  the  common 
and  striped-leaved  Lily  of  the  Valley,  the  fern-leaved  Preony,  and 
Cheiranthus  luteus  fl.  pi., a  very  fine  double  yellow  Wallflower.  Cinera- 
rias, with  but  one  exception,  were  far  from  first-rate.  The  principal 
exception  was  the  collection  from  Mr.  James,  who  staged  a  group 
of  most  beautiful  and  well-flowered  specimens.  Several  new  plants 
were  shown,  the  most  interesting  of  them  being  Cyclamen  persicum 
Snovjlake,  a  fine  large-leaved  variety  with  large  pure  white  flowers, 
from  Mr.  Goddard,  gardener  to  H.  Little,  Es-q.,  Cambridge  Park, 
Twickenham  ;  Tillandsia  argentea,  an  interesting  epiphytal  species 
with  silvery  leaves,  and  Euterpe  antioqtiensis,  a  very  graceful-grow- 
ing palm  with  pinnate  fronds,  from  Messrs.  Rolli?son  and  Son  ; 
Amaryllis  hybrida  gujantea,  a  very  beautiful  variety  with  medium- 
sized  flowers,  of  a  delicate  blush  colour,  most  beautifully  painted 
rich  rosy  carmine,  from  Mr.  B.  S.  Williams,  Upper  Holloway ;  Acer 
pohjmorphum    pahnatifidum,    a    very  beautiful    maple   with   leaves 


156  THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 

elegantly  cut,  and  of  a  light  green  colour,  from  Messrs.  Yeitch  and 
Sons,  Royal  Exotic  Nursery,  Chelsea  ;  and  Malortiea  speciosa,  a  bold 
and  distinct  palm,  from  Messrs.  A.  Henderson  and  Co.,  Maida  Vale, 
Edgeware  Road. 

At  the  last  meeting  of  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society,  the 
Azaleas  were  decidedly  poor,  and  excepting  a  tine  group  of  new 
varieties,  staged  byM.  L.  Van  Houtte,  Ghent,  Belgium,  we  can  well 
afford  to  pass  them  by. 

All  the  varieties  shown  by  M.  L.  Van  Houtte  possess  consider- 
able merit,  but  the  best  and  most  distinct  were : — Alice,  deep  rose, 
spotted  on  top  segment ;  semi-dimble,  showy.  Marquis  of  Lome, 
vermilion,  with  a  few  crimson  spots  on  top  segments  ;  single,  fine. 
Comtesse  de  Beaufort,  deep  rose,  with  crimson  blotch  on  upper 
segment,  semi  double.  George  Loddiges,  scarlet,  very  large  and  showy; 
single.  Baronne  de  Vriere,  pure  white,  striped  with  rosy  scarlet, 
very  large  and  fine  ;  single.  Juliette,  deep  rosy  carmine  ;  semi-double, 
large  and  of  fine  form  ;  superb.  Madlle.  Marie  Van  Houtte,  white, 
striped  with  scarlet,  large  and  fine.  Superba  Nova,  rosy  crimson, 
shaded  w<ith  violet,  single  ;  first-rate.  Princess  Louise  of  Lome,  pale 
flesb,  with  violet  spots  ;  large  and  good. 

Auriculas  shown  both  for  the  prizes  offered  by  the  Metropolitan 
Eloral  Society  and  by  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society  were  staged 
in  fine  condition.  The  former  society  offered  prizes  for  single 
specimens  of  selfs  and  of  green,  white,  and  grey-edged  varieties,  and 
for  six  show  varieties,  and  the  principal  prizes  were  awarded  as 
follows  : — Single  specimen  Self,  Mr.  Turner,  Slough,  first  with 
Spalding's  Blackbird  ;  Mr.  James,  gardener  to  W.  F.  Watson,  Esq., 
Redlees,  Jsleworth,  second  with  Martin's  Mrs.  Smith.  Single 
specimen  Green-edge,  Mr.  James  first  with  a  grand  example  of 
Lovely  Ann ;  Mr.  Turner  second  with  Traill's  Prince  of  Greens; 
and  Mr.  Butcher  third  with  Mrs.  Butcher.  Single  specimen  White- 
edge,  first  Mr.  James  with  Smith's  Ne  Plus  Ultra  in  fine  condition  ; 
Mr.  Turner  second  with  Lee's  Earl  Grosvenor.  Single  specimen 
Grey-edge,  Mr.  Turner  first  with  Lightbody's  Richard  Headly ; 
the  Rev.  H.  H.  Dom brain  second  with  Headly's  George  Lightbody. 
Six  Show  varieties,  the  Rev.  H.  H.  Dombrain,  Westwell  Vicarage, 
Ashford,  Kent,  first  with  Clegg's  Crucifix,  Martin's  Mrs.  Sturrock, 
Traill's  Mayflower,  Lightbody's  Richard  Headly,  and  Park's  Metro- 
politan ;  H.  Little,  Esq.,  Cambridge  Park,  Twickenham,  second  with 
a  well-finished  collection,  consisting  of  Traill's  General  Neill,  Light- 
body's  Richard  Headly,  Dickson's  Duke  of  Cambridge,  Smith's  Ne 
Plus  Ultra,  and  Lancashire  Hero. 

The  competitors  for  the  prizes  offered  by  the  latter  Society  for 
twelve  show  Auricula  and  twelve  Alpine  Auriculas,  were  Mr.  C. 
Turner  and  Mr.  James,  who  were  first  and  second  respectively  in 
each  class.  In  the  Alpine  class,  Mr.  Turner  had  Borealis,  Godfrey, 
Elcho,  Nonpareil,  Celina,  Mercury,  Gladiator,  Dizzle,  Queen 
Victoria,  John  Leech,  Defiance,  and  Cygnet,  all  of  which  are  first- 
rate  ;  and  Mr.  James  had  Little  Beauty,  Miss  Andrew,  Conspicua, 
Mabel,  Beauty,  Novelty,  Minnie,  Clipper,  and  Dazzle.  In  the  show 
class,   Mr.  Turuer  staged  Martin's   Mrs.   Sturrock,  Martin's  Miss 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND   GARDEN    GUIDE.  157 

Martin,  Partington's  Trafalgar,  M'Lean's  Unique,  Read's  Miss 
Giddings,  Barlow's  Morning  Star,  Turner's  Galatea,  Turner's 
Colonel  Champneys,  Turner's  Omega,  Turner's  Buckstone,  Turner's 
Competitor,  and  Lightbody's  Richard  Headly ;  and  Mr.  James  had 
Spalding's  Blackbird,  Martin's  Mayfield,  Wild's  Bright  Phoebus, 
Headly's  Royal  Purple,  Turner's  Webster,  James's  Mary  James, 
Lightbody's  Meteor  Flag,  Smith's  Mrs.  Smith,  and  Martin's  Mrs. 
Sturrock.  Mr.  Turner  exhibited  a  batch  of  new  Alpine  varieties, 
all  of  which  are  decided  acquisitions.  The  names  and  colours  are  as 
follows  : — Mr.  James  Butcher,  very  large,  stout,  and  massive  ;  ground 
colour  deep  maroon-crimson,  very  rich ;  paste  small  deep  golden 
yellow ;  truss  good.  Sultan,  medium  size,  but  smooth  and  well 
finished  ;  ground  colour  brownish-maroon,  shading  to  claret ;  paste 
large  and  sharply  denned.  Marquis  of  Westminster,  rather  above 
medium  size;  ground  colour  rich  chocolate-crimson;  paste  large  and 
smooth  ;  a  beautifully-finished  flower.  Mrs.  Moore,  rather  large ; 
ground  colour  deep  blackish  velvety  maroon ;  paste  large,  smooth, 
and  richly  coloured.  Lord  Lome,  medium-sized  and  of  fair  form  ; 
ground  colour  bright  crimson  ;  paste  rich  in  colour,  and  well 
denned. 

The  most  desirable  of  the  new  plants  shown  were  : — Maxillaria 
lutea  grandiflora,  a  very  fine  and  richly-coloured  variety,  from  Mr. 
B.  S.  Williams.  Tea  Rose  Belle  Lyonnaise,  very  large  and  double, 
and  of  the  finest  form,  from  Mr.  Charles  Turner.  Rliododendron 
The  Bride,  a  superb  greenhouse  variety,  with  pure  white  flowers  of 
large  size,  fine  form,  and  great  substance,  from  Mr.  G.  Pairbairn, 
gardener  to  J.  T.  Noakes,  Esq.,  Brockley  Hall,  Lewisham.  Acer 
dissecturn,  a  very  beautiful  variety  with  elegantly-cut  green  leaves,  and 
A.  japonicum  omatum,  a  variety  with  leaves  cut  in  much  the  same 
manner  as  the  preceding,  but  of  a  dark  bronzy  crimson  hue,  from 
Messrs.  Veitch  and  Sons.  Azalea  amcena  Marvel,  a  semi-double 
form  of  this  well-known  and  useful  azalea,  from  Mr.  Bull.  Pink 
Princess  Louise,  a  magnificent  dwarf-growing  variety,  with  large 
flowers  of  fine  form,  very  full,  and  of  the  most  brilliant  scarlet 
colour,  and  very  fragrant,  from  Mr.  Lee,  Florist,  Cross  Bush,  near 
Arundel.  Cypripedium  niveum,  from  Mr.  C.  Ward,  gardener  to 
A.  D.  Berrington,  Esq.,  Pont-y- Goitre,  Abergavenny ;  and  Odonto- 
glossum  odoratum,  a  pretty  species,  with  yellow  and  brown  flowers, 
from  Mr.  Denning,  gardener  to  Lord  Londesborough,  Grimston 
Park,  Tadcaster. 

It  will  be  remembered  that  Mr.  Trussler,  the  head-gardener  at 
High  Leigh,  Hcddesdon,  contributed  a  paper  on  the  cultivation  of 
camellias  to  the  Floral  World  for  December  last,  in  which  he 
strongly  recommended  planting  them  out  in  a  border  of  good  soil 
instead  of  growing  them  in  pots ;  and  assuredly  he  can  speak  with 
confidence  upon  that  point.  The  large  conservatory  under  his 
charge  is  planted  almost  exclusively  with  camellias,  and  each  plant 
is  a  perfect  specimen,  some  of  them  being  nearly  twenty  feet  in 
height.  Some  are  grown  as  pyramids,  a  few  as  bushes,  and  others 
as  standards,  all  being  in  the  most  luxuriant  health  ;  and  when  I 
had  the  pleasure  of  seeing  them  in  March,  they  were  literally  loaded 


158  THE   FLORAL    WOULD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

with  flowers.  Those  of  the  favourite  old  Double  White  could  have 
beeu  gathered  by  the  hundred  from  each  plant.  One  of  the  most 
remarkable  of  the  specimens  in  the  conservatory  was  a  pyramid 
about  twenty  feet  in  height  of  Cbandleri  elegans,  quite  solid  with 
the  bloom,  and  the  majority  of  the  flowers  measuring  six  and  seven 
inches  across.  Of  course  there  are  not  many  amateurs  who  could 
grow  camellias  on  so  large  a  scale  as  at  High  Leigh,  but  where  there 
is  a  small  house  aud  a  liberal  supply  of  camellias  required,  the  plan 
recommended  by  Mr.  Trussler  is  undoubtedly  the  best  that  could 
be  adopted.  An  abundance  of  camellias  may  be  grown  in  the  open, 
or  at  least  against  a  wad,  anywhere  south  of  London,  because  the 
camellia  is  quite  hardy  enough  to  bear  exposure  to  winters  such  as 
that  through  which  we  have  just  passed  without  injury.  At  the 
present  time  tbere  is,  in  the  gardens  of  Baron  Schroder  at  Englefield 
Green,  a  plant  of  the  old  Double  White  that  covers  a  wall  twenty 
feet  in  length,  and  is  upwards  of  fourteen  feet  in  height.  The 
growth  has  been  allowed  to  grow  out  from  the  wall,  and  it  now 
extends  to  a  distance  of  six  feet,  and  the  foliage  and  bloom  as 
dense  as  they  possibly  can  be.  During  the  early  part  of  this  spring 
it  has  been  really  magnificent ;  for  from  top  to  bottom  throughout 
its  whole  length  it  has  been  sheeted  with  bloom  of  the  most  snowy 
w  hiteness.  The  only  protection  it  receives  is  a  few  lights  placed 
over  the  top  when  in  bloom,  to  prevent  the  rain  injuring  the  flowers. 
It  has  flowered  in  the  same  manner  for  many  years  past.       G.  (Jr. 


NOTICES  TO  CORRESPONDENTS. 

Fern  House. — I  have  a  small  glass  annexed  outside  my  dining-room  window, 
and  should  feel  obliged  by  your  opinion  as  to  what  to  grow  in  it.  It  faces  north- 
west, the  sun  getting  on  it  about  two  o'clock.  I  have  just  had  the  pleasure  of 
reading  your  book  ("Fern  Garden"),  and  the  simple  practical  advice  you  have 
there  given  induces  me  to  make  the  above  request. — J.  R.  Oarside,  Leeds.  [The 
structure  is  best  adapted  for  the  cultivation  of  ferns,  and  we  should  recommend 
their  beino- grown.  The  "Fern  Garden  "  will  supply  you  with  all  the  necessary 
information  respecting  the  selection  of  the  best  kinds,  preparation  of  the  soil,  potting, 
and  other  details  connected  with  their  management. — En.  F.  W.] 

Rose-buds  Decaying. — If  time  permits,  will  you  in  the  next  number  of  the 
Floral  World  tell  me  why  the  buds  of  a  ro.-e,  one  of  which  I  enclose,  have  all 
rotted  without  opening.  It  is  a  standard  in  a  large  pot  in  the  greenhouse,  and  had 
twenty-seven  promising  buds,  of  which  only  one  expanded. — A  Constant  Sub- 
scriber. [The  bud  sent  tells  the  story  in  detail.  Your  pot  rose  made  a  good 
growth  last  summer,  aud  ripened  a  fine  lot  of  wood  ;  since  it  began  to  grow  again 
t lie  roots  have  been  too  cold  and  too  wet.  It  is  too  late,  of  course,  to  save  the 
flowers,  but  there  is  time  to  put  the  plant  to  rights,  and  the  first  step  will  be  to 
have  it  carefully  repotted,  for  in  all  likelihood  the  drainage  is  stopped  and  the 
soil  is  sour,  and  if  the  roots  are  not  promptly  attended  to  the.  rose-tree  will  die. — 
Ed.  F.  W.] 

Woodlice  in  Cold  Frames. — J.  31.  would  be  glad  to  know  if  there  is  anyway 
of  destroying  wood  bobs  in  irames  ;  the  writer's  melons  have  been  much  injured 
for  two  or  three  seasons  by  these  insects,  and  he  can  find  no  effectual  remedy. 
[For  directions  for  trapping  these  pests,  see  the  answer  to  "W.  S.,"  page  32  of 
tiie  Floral  World  for  last  January. — Ed.  F.  W.] 

G.  H. — Six  late-flowering   Phloxes  :     Aurantiaca  superba,   Madame   Quil- 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  159 

lotteaux,  Liervalli,  Madame  Marin  Saison,  Mons.  Linden,  Mons.  W,  Bull.  Six 
1'entstemons :  Arthur  Mc Hardy,  Black  Knight,  Lady  Boswell,  Starts fead  Rival, 
Miss  Carnegie,  George  Sand.  Six  Antirrhinums  :  Admiral,  George  Gordon. 
Leopard,  Striped  Unique,  The  Rival,  Yelloio  Gem.  The  above  selections 
include  a  few  of  those  that  are  now  in  course  of  distribution  for  the  first  time. 

Calceolarias.—  G.  Simpson. — "We  cannot  say  whether  they  will  die  off  this 
summer  as  they  did  last,  and  as  they  have  too  frequently  done  in  past  years. 
But  we  can  say  this,  that  in  several  experiments  with  calceolarias  at  Stoke 
Newington,  those  planted  in  soil  consisting  of  about  three  parts  out  of  four  of  rotten 
hotbed  dung,  n-me  died,  and  the  growth  and  bloom  were  the  astonishment  of  many 
practicals  who  saw  them. 

Geraniums  fok  Planting  after  Bulbs. —  W.  W. — All  you  need  do  is  to 
shift  the  plants  into  six-inch  pots,  and  plunge  them  out  of  doors  till  wanted.  Then 
you  can  turn  them  out  without  any  check,  and  in  full  bloom.  So  in  autumn  you 
need  not  take  up  your  plants  till  the  end  of  October,  and  you  have  then  good  time 
to  plant  the  tulips.  Suppose  you  were  to  have  some  kind  of  cheap  frame-work  for 
inclosing  those  beds,  and  then  fill  them  with  potted  plants  for  the  summer,  on  the 
plunging  system.  That  system  proves  to  be  about  a  hundred  times  more  grand 
than  any  system  of  planting  out,  and  it  has  but  one  defect,  and  that  is,  that  it  uses 
an  enormous  quantity  of  plants,  but  that  is  an  advantage  to  those  who  grow 
plants  in  quantities.  But  you  have  only  to  give  your  bedders  an  extra  fortnight's 
growing. 

Destroying  Wireworm.  —  Robert  Wilkinson. — Yours  is  a  bad  case,  but  not  at 
all  uncommon  where  a  grass-field  has  been  lately  converted  into  a  garden.  Culti- 
vation will  eradicate  the  pest  in  time,  as  every  time  the  land  is  dug  the  birds  will 
make  a  feast  of  the  vermin,  and  the  use  of  lime  and  salt  on  the  land  when  newly 
dug  tip  will  contribute  to  thin  them.  For  the  present,  we  can  recommend  a  good 
plan  to  save  the  crops  that  are  coming  forward.  Sow  carrots  in  short  rows  in  all 
the  beds  occupied  with  lettuces,  onions,  and  other  things  that  they  usually  destroy. 
As  long  as  they  can  find  th  .ir  way  to  a  feed  o{  carrots,  they  will  desert  everything 
else,  just  as  slugs  and  snails  will  quit  everything  else  for  lettuces.  Sow  the 
carruts  now  rather  thick,  at  intervals  of  about  two  yards  across  every  four-feet 
bed,  and  as  soon  as  they  acquire  the  thickness  of  a  quill  begin  to  draw  them 
where  thickest,  and  you  will  catch  many'  of  the  vermin.  But  you  must  allow  a 
fair  share  of  roots  to  remain,  and  you  will  have  a  crop  of  carrots  in  the  end  iu 
spite  of  the  worms.  Next  year  sow  onions  and  carrots,  lettuces  and  carrots, 
etc.,  in  alternate  rows  in  the  same  beds  ;  it  is  too  laty,  we  presume,  to  advise  this 
course  now. 

F.  C. — You  have  nothing  to  fear,  although  it  would  be  a  decided  advantage 
if  the  trees  could  be  pruned  earlier  in  the  season  ;  but  it  would  not  be  safe  to 
prune  them  before  the  sap  is  in  active  circulation. 

A  New  Beginner. — Of  course,  if  the  plants  had  not  been  well  hardened  off 
by  exposure  to  the  air  previous  to  their  removal  from  the  frame,  they  would  suffer. 

Mushroom  Culture. — Mrs.  Smith. — There  are  many  ways  of  growing  mush- 
rooms ;  some  of  the  most  careless  ways  are  sometimes  very  succassful,  some  of  the 
most  careful  ways  are  sometimes  failures.  In  the  end  the  careful  man  will  be 
the  winner  ;  and  theiefore,  tnough  the  b:-st  ways  fail  sometimes,  we  recommend  the 
following,  which  we  consider  the  best: — Collect  short  manure  from  the  stable  duily, 
and  lay  it  in  a  heap  in  a  dry  shed.  So  long  as  it  rises  to  only  a  gentle  heat  leave 
it  alone,  and  keep  adding  to  it  ;  but  if  there  is  any  tendency  to  a  strong  heat, 
spread  it  out;  leave  it  spread  a  day  or  two,  and  make  it  up  again  in  smaller  heaps. 
If  it  gets  thoroughly  hot,  it  will  be  in  great  part  spoiled.  When  you  have  enough 
for  the  bed,  mix  w ith  it  a  fourth  part  of  good  turfy  loam  ;  if  the  loam  is  stiff,  use 
only  a  sixth  part  to  the  whole  bulk.  Lay  it  all  up  in  a  heap  to  ferment,  and  when  the 
heat  rises  to  80°  or  90°,  take  it  to  the  mushroom  house,  and  make  up  the  bed  18  to 
24  inches  deep.  It  will  soon  heat  again,  but  not  fiercely.  When  the  temperature 
of  the  bed  is  declining  from  its  first  heating,  and  is  at  about  90'  (80'  to  100J  will 
do  as  well),  bore  holes  with  a  rammer  about  a  foot  apart,  and  put  into  each  a  piece 
of  spawn  the  size  of  a  walnut.  Fill  up  the  holes  with  some  of  the  same  stuff  the  bed 
is  made  of,  then  spread  two  or  three  inches  of  good  strong  loam  all  over  the 
bed,  and  at  once  beat  the  whole  firm.  It  is  one  of  the  most  important  of  all  the 
points    in  mushroom-growing  to  make    the    bed    as    firm  as  a  rock  at  the  right 


100  THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

moment — that  is,  when  the  heat  is  going  down  from  the  first  rush,  and  is  not 
more  than  100°.  Spread  over  the  bed  some  clean  dry  straw,  not  hay,  for  that  is  apt 
to  go  mouldy  ;  and  thereafter  keep  the  bed  moderately  rroist,  but  never  wet,  and  as 
far  as  possible  let  the  atmosphere  be  close,  damp,  and  averaging  55°  to  70°.  Gene- 
rally speaking,  water  never  need  be  given  until  after  the  first  gathering  of  mush- 
rooms has  been  made  ;  but  this  will  depend  on  the  degree  of  moisture  of  the  stuff 
when  the  bed  is  made  :  the  experienced  cultivator  will  take  care  to  have  it  moist 
enough  in  the  first  instance  to  last  five  weeks,  and  will  then  expect  to  find  the  bed 
smothered  with  young  mushrooms.  In  gathering,  take  them  clean  out  of  the  soil  ; 
the  practice  of  leaving  the  root  in,  with  a  view  to  disseminate  fresh  spawn,  is  bad, 
for  it  attiacts  several  kinds  of  hies,  and  these  soon  fill  the  bed  with  maggots, 
and  it  encourages  snails  and  wood-lice,  which  are  a?  fond  of  mushrooms  as  we  are. 

Pjeonies  and  Pyrethrums. —  W.  W. — There  is  still  time  to  buy  and  plant, 
though  the  autumn  is  preferable.  Your  position,  climate,  etc.,  are  all  that  these 
tilings  require  to  do  well ;  the  fact  is,  they  are  first-rate  flowers  for  the  suburbs  of 
towns.  Since  your  ground  is  well  drained,  you  may  reasonably  expect  to  grow 
peonies,  pyrethrums,  dahlias,  and  hollyhocks  well.  We  cannot  advise  you  whether 
to  buy  the  cheapest  or  the  dearest  kinds  ;  you  are  the  best  judge  of  your  own 
purse;  but  the  most  expensive  kicds  are  as  hardy  as  the  cheapest,  and  occasion  no 
more  trouble  to  grow  them  well. 

Flowers. — Miss  B. — The  following  are  good  subjects  for  a  London  garden  : 
Chrysanthemums,  Pyrethrums,  (Enothera  Fraseri,  Iberis  sempervirens,  Alyssum 
saxatile,  common  white  Lily  and  Martagon  Lily,  Solomon's  Seal,  Achillea  millefolia 
rosea,  Achillea  ptarmica,  Spirea  filipendula,  herbaceous  Pteonies,  Dielytra  spec- 
tabilis,  Everlasting  Pea,  Veronica  spicata,  Campanula  carpatica,  Campanula  per- 
sicifolia,  Campanula  nobilis,  Tiadescantia  Virginica,  Centranthus  rubra,  Hemero- 
callis  flava,  Helianthus  angustifolius,  Helianthus  laetiflorus,  Lysimachianummularia, 
Sedum  acre,  Sedum  fabarium,  Sempervivum  moutanum.  These  are  all  good  things, 
and  will  grow  and  flower  well  wherever  they  can  get  a  bit  of  sunshine.  They  may 
all  be  obtained  in  pots  or  tufts  from  the  open  ground  at  a  nursery  where  hardy 
plants  in  any  great  variety  are  kept.  We  can  advise  you  of  a  few  hundreds  more, 
hut  perhaps  these  will  suffice  for  the  present.  Any  that  you  determine  to  have, 
procure  and  plant  at  once. 

Unhealthy  Zonal  Pelargoniums. — An  Amateur  Groiver. — The  plants  that 
are  affected  like  the  sample  sent,  have  for  months  past  been  in  a  bad  state  at  the 
roots.  Probably  the  drainage  has  been  choked  by  worms,  and  during  the  miserable 
March  and  April  the  soil  was  becoming  more  and  more  satuiated  and  sour.  Shake 
them  out,  prune  back  the  roots  a  little,  and  repot  them,  using  an  extra  bed  of  crocks 
and  an  extra  quantity  of  sand,  and  put  them  on  a  hot  sunny  shelf,  where  they  will 
no  doubt  recover  in  a  few  weeks. 

Annuals  for  Cold  Soil. —  W.  O.  S. — The  best  annuals  for  a  cold  clay  are  the 
showy  Californian  kinds,  sown  in  pans  in  a  pit  or  frame,  or  on  a  gentle  hotbed,  and 
planted  out  when  the  ground  is  warm.  If  you  grow  Oxalis  rosea,  Hunnemannia, 
Nemophila  maculata,  Leptosiphon,  or  Fenzlia  dianthiflora,  or  Ipomers,  get  them 
forward  in  pans,  and  do  not  plant  them  out  till  May.  Give  preference  to  the  crim- 
son, purple,  and  white  Candytufts,  Nemophila  insignis,  Campanula  speculum, 
Venus's  Navel-wort,  Silene  armeria,  Kaulfussia  amelloides,  Yiscana  oculata,  Gilea 
rosea,  Escholtzia  crocea,  and  pceony  Poppy. 

Celosia  pyramidalis.  —  ir".  Johnson.— To  start  the  seeds  quickly,  a  bottom-heat 
of  80'  to  90"  is  necessary  ;  sow  the  seed  thinly,  but  directly  the  plants  are  up  place 
them  close  to  the  glass,  and  give  air  freely  to  keep  them  dwarf.  As  soon  as  the 
plants  are  sufficiently  strong,  pot  them  off  into  "  thumbs,"  and  give  them  a  bottom- 
heat  of  80°  at  the  least,  a  moist  atmosphere,  and  as  much  air  night  and  day  as  the 
heat  of  the  frame,  pit,  or  house,  will  admit  of,  always  bearing  in  mind  that  the  night 
temperature  should  not  fall  much  below  60°,  while  in  the  daytime  a  brisk  moist  heat 
rising  to  80'  or  90",  with  sun-heat  and  moistuie,  will  not  be  too  much.  As  the  pots 
fill  with  roots,  shift  into  those  of  a  larger  size.  Fine  plants  may  be  grown  in 
eleven-inch  pots,  but  if  you  wish  to  attain  the  fullest  perfection,  thirteen  or  fifteen- 
inch  pots  will  be  necessary.  Soil,  sandy  loam  and  very  rotten  dung,  and  use 
manure-water  pretty  freely. 


T  H  U  N  I A     B  E  N  S  0  N  I  £ 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  1G1 

NOTES   ON  ORCHIDS. 

BY    GEORGE    GORDON. 
(  With  Coloured  Illustration  of  Thunia  Bensonice.) 

jlRCHIDS  have  bad  ample  justice  done  them  in  the  pages 
of  the  Floral  World,  as  a  reference  to  the  indexes 
of  past  volumes  will  show,  but  the  appearance  of  a 
portrait  of  the  beautiful  Thunia  Bensonice  presents  a 
most  favourable  opportunity  for  once  more  directing 
attention  to  the  claims  they  have  upon  the  amateur.  A  few  years 
since,  the  cultivation  of  orchids  was  considered  quite  beyond  the 
means  of  any  but  the  most  wealthy ;  for  expensive  houses,  and  an 
excessively  high  temperature,  were  looked  on  as  most  essential  to 
success.  Added  to  this,  the  cost  of  the  plants  themselves  was  quite 
sufficient  to  place  them  beyond  the  reach  of  the  amateur  with  limited 
means.  Now,  all  this  has  changed,  for  an  extended  acquaintance 
with  them  has  shown  that  the  more  simply  the  orchid-house  is  con- 
structed, the  better  it  is  for  the  health  of  the  plants,  and  also  that  a 
very  large  number  of  species  can  be  grown  in  a  comparatively  cool 
temperature.  The  reduction  in  price  of  the  most  showy  kinds  has 
also  been  very  considerable,  and  now  strong  plants  of  a  very  large 
number  can  be  obtained  for  a  less  sum  than  the  price  paid  for  a 
"  tricolor  "  geranium  when  first  sent  out.  Indeed,  in  a  catalogue 
before  me,  Dendrobium  nobile,  which  is  most  beautiful  and  easily 
grown,  is  quoted  at  five  shillings,  and  Oncidium  flexuosum,  and 
Phaius  grandifolia  both  showy  and  free-flowering,  at  a  trifle  over  two- 
thirds  of  that  sum  ;  and  in  another  catalogue  a  collection  of  twenty- five 
are  offered  for  four  pounds,  and  superior  collections,  both  for  cool  and 
high  temperatures,  for  eight  pounds  each,  or  the  fifty  plants,  which 
would  form  a  very  good  collection  to  begin  with,  for  sixteen  pounds  ! 
This  is  merely  mentioned  to  show  that  orchids  are  not  such  expensive 
luxuries  as  they  once  were,  and  are  even  now  generally  supposed  to 
be.  Of  course  the  plants  at  so  low  a  price  are  not  large,  but  it  is 
better  for  the  young  beginner  to  commence  with  small,  instead  of 
large  plants,  because  of  the  extra  pleasure  afforded  in  watching  their 
development  into  fair-sized  specimens.  And  in  case  of  failure  with 
any  of  the  kinds,  the  loss  will  be  very  inconsiderable  when  the  plants 
are  small. 

Apart  from  the  above  considerations,  and  the  gorgeousness  of 
their  flowers,  they  possess  many  advantages  over  ordinary  stove 
plants,  but  two  only  will  be  noticed  here.  First  of  all,  the  labour  of 
the  annual  or  periodical  renewal  of  the  stock  from  cuttings  common 
to  a  stock  of  ordinary  stove-plants  is  avoided,  for  they  do  not  soon 
outgrow  the  space  allotted  to  them,  and  they  increase  in  value  as  they 
increase  in  size.  When  it  is  wished  to  increase  any  particular 
species,  the  plants  can,  with  but  i'ew  exceptions,  be  divided  just  as 
they  are  starting  into  growth,  and  each  portion  potted  and  otherwise 
managed  in  the  same  way  as  established  specimens.     Secondly,  there 

VOL.    VI. — NO.    VI.  11 


162  THE   FLORAL   WORLD  AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

is  nothing  in  their  culture  which  may  not  he  mastered  by  the 
amateur,  with  the  assistance  of  a  little  practical  advice,  such  as  that 
given  in  the  papers  on  Orchid  Growing,  published  in  the  Floral 
World  for  January  and  May,  1870. 

To  give,  upon  the  present  occasion,  any  but  general  directions 
for  their  management,  is  out  of  the  question,  and  all  that  it  appears 
desirable  to  attempt  is  a  few  observations  on  the  most  suitable  house 
for  an  amateur  to  build,  the  selection  of  the  potting  materials,  and 
the  supply  of  moisture,  both  at  the  roots,  and  overhead. 

First  of  all,  we  -will  consider  the  best  form  of  house,  and  it 
should  be  well  understood  that  orchids,  although  they  do  not  bloom 
satisfactorily  in  a  dark  house,  should  not  be  exposed  to  an  excess  of 
light.     For  a  moderate  collection,  a  span-roof  house,  twelve  feet  in 
width  and  eight  in  height  from  the  floor  to  the  apex,  and  twenty 
feet  in  length,  would  be  a  fair  size.    The  tables  should  be  four  feet 
in  width,  and  fixed  at  a  distance  of  four  feet  above  the  floor ;  and  the 
side  walls,  upon  which  the  bottom  of  the  lights  should  rest  (for  side 
sashes  are  entirely  unnecessary),  should  be  carried  thirty  inches  above 
the  stage.     The  latter  can  be  made  with  open  lattice-work,  but  it  is 
preferable  to  have  a  close  stage,  and  then  it  can  be  covered  during 
the  summer  months  with  cocoanut-fibre  refuse,  or  sand,  to  retain 
the  moisture,  as  the  evaporation  therefrom  is  most  conducive  to  the 
health  of  the  plants.     The  house  should  be  heated  with  hot  water, 
and  the  division  set  apart  for  species  requiring  a  high  temperature, 
four  rows  of  pipes  on  each  side  ;  for  those  requiring  an  intermediate 
temperature,  three  rows,  and  for  "cool"  orchids,  two  rows  will  be 
ample  ;  but  two  divisions  will  be  ample  for  an  amateur,  and  preference 
should  be  given  to  orchids  that  will  succeed  in  the  cool  and  inter- 
mediate house.     If  three  divisions  are  required,  the  house  should  not 
be  less  than  thirty  feet  in  length.     A  less  quantity  of  piping  in  all 
the  divisions  may  be  fixed,  but  in  severe  weather  the  pipes  will  have 
to  be  made  much  hotter  than  would  be  otherwise  necessary,  and  the 
heat   given   off  will  not  be  so  congenial  to  the  health  of  the  plants. 
Ventilation  should  be  effected  by  means  of  small  openings  in  the 
side  walls,  opposite  the  pipes,  and  small  moveable  lights  at  the  apex 
of  the  roof. 

Nearly  all  the  epiphytal  species  can  be  grown  in  a  mixture  of 
sphagnum  moss  and  fibrous  peat  used  in  equal  proportion,  but  some 
species  prefer  either  peat  or  sphagnum  separately.  The  Cattleyas, 
Pleiones,  and  Lselias,  for  instance,  do  best  in  peat,  whilst  the  Den- 
drobiums,  iErides,  Oncidiums,  and  Phalsenopsis  succeed  better  when 
•potted  in  sphagnum.  All  grow  with  greater  vigour  when  the  roots 
can  come  outside,  and  run  down  the  sides  of  the  pot  or  basket  in 
which  the  plants  are  put,  consequently  the  pots  should  be  nearly 
filled  with  large  crocks  only,  or  in  repotting  the  plants,  turn  them 
out  of  the  pots,  remove  the  loose  material  from  round  the  outside  of 
the  ball,  and  after  carefully  loosening  the  outside  roots,  spread  them 
out  regularly,  and  cover  them  with  a  moderate  thickness  of  the 
compost ;  and  to  hold  the  plants  steady,  insert  a  few  pegs  at  regular 
distances  apart. 

Terrestrial  species  should  be  potted  in  a  mixture  of  turfy  loam, 


THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 


163 


leaf-mould,  sand,  and  cow-dung  rotted  to  a  powder,  well  incorporated 
together,  and  used  in  a  moderately  rough  state.  The  pots  should  be 
about  half  filled  with  crocks,  and  then  filled  up  with  the  compost  to 
within  about  an  inch  of  the  rim. 

The  winter  temperature  of  the  several  divisions  should  average 
70°,  60°,  and  45°  respectively,  with  a  range  of  five  degrees  each  way, 
according  to  the  weather.  As  an  example,  the  temperature  of  the 
hottest  house  in  mild  weather  may  rise  to  75°,  and  in  frosty  weather 
fall  to  653,  provided  the  transition  is  effected  in  a  gradual  manner. 
The  summer  temperature  should  be  on  an  average  ten  degrees  higher. 
An  abundance  of  atmospheric  humidity  is  essential  during  the 
summer  season  ;  consequently,  the  paths  and  walls  require  sprinkling 
frequently,  and  in  very  bright  weather  plants  not  in  bloom  may  be 
syringed  overhead  lightly  when  the  house  is  shut  up  for  the  night. 
Liberal  supplies  of  water  during 
the  same  period  will  also  be 
necessary  ;  and  if  the  pots  are 
drained  as  here  advised,  there 
will  not  be  much  danger  of  the 
com  post  becoming  sour  from  over 
saturation,  provided  the  water  is 
applied  in  moderation.  When 
at  rest,  the  compost  must  not 
be  allowed  to  become  quite  dry, 
but  kinds  with  thick  fleshy 
pseudo-bulbs,  such  as  the  Cat- 
tleyas,  Dendrobiuins,  and  On- 
cidiums,  require  very  little  mois- 
ture indeed,  and  it  will  be  safer 
to  err  on  the  side  of  keeping 
them  too  dry  than  in  watering 
them  too  freely.  iErides,  Van- 
das,  and  Pkalaenopsis,and  others 
of  a  similar  character,  which  are 
not  furnishedwith  pseudo-bulbs, 
must  not  be  kept  so  dry  at  the 
roots,  or  theywiil  suffer  severely, 
and  the  safest  rule  to  lay  down 
is,  that  the  compost  should  be 
kept  moderately  moist  through- 
out the  winter. 

From  March  until  the  end 
of  August,  Orchids  require 
shading,  which  can  be  accom- 
plished by  tacking  stout  tiffany  or  thin  canvas  over  the  roof  per- 
manently, or  by  means  of  roller-blinds,  which  are  preferable,  ex- 
cepting that  a  considerable  amount  of  labour  is  requisite  in  attend- 
ing to  them.  Air  should  be,  excepting  during  the  summer  season, 
admitted  at  the  top,  unless  special  provisions  are  made  for  warming 
it  previous  to  its  coming  in  contact  with  the  plants. 

Some  kinds  are  best  suited  for  baskets,  and  for  growing  upon 


IMPROVED    ORCHID    BASKET. 


164  THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND   GARDEN   GUIDE. 

blocks,  and  as  they  do  better  when  disturbed  as  little  as  possible, 
durable  wood,  like  that  of  the  apple-tree,  ought  to  be  selected. 
Branches  six  inches  in  diameter  cut  up  into  lengths  of  nine  and 
twelve  inches,  make  excellent  blocks,  quite  large  enough  for  all 
ordinary-sized  specimens.  In  attaching  thera  to  the  wood,  first  fasten 
a  little  moss  on  one  side,  then  spread  the  roots  over  it,  and  cover  them 
lightly,  and  make  all  secure  by  means  of  thin  copper  wire.  Baskets 
of  wood  or  red  ware  are  the  most  suitable;  and  preference  should  be 
given  to  those  made  with  hazel  rods  an  inch  in  diameter,  and  of 
a  similar  shape  to  that  shown  in  the  accompanying  illustration. 
Amateurs  in  the  neighbourhood  of  towns  would  do  better  to  buy 
the  baskets  ready-made  from  nurserymen  who  cultivate  orchids,  or 
purchase  from  the  potteries  baskets  manufactured  in  red  ware,  like 
the  one  here  figured,  which  is  probably  the  best  form  that  could  be 
adopted. 

Orchids  may  be  divided  into  three  classes  :  the  first  comprising 
those  which  should  be  grown  in  quantity  for  decorative  purposes, 
furnishing  a  supply  of  cut  flowers  ;  the  second  those  which,  from 
their  great  beauty,  are  indispensable  to  the  amateur  cultivator  ;  and 
the  third  those  which  are  only  suitable  for  botanical  gardeners  and 
collectors  of  curiosities. 

In  the  first  class  we  must  include,  Barkeria  Skinneri,  JBrassia 
verrucosa,  Calanthe  vestita,  and  its  varieties ;  Gyprlpedium  insigne, 
Dendrobium  fimbriatwm,  D.  nobile,  Goodyera  discolor,  Loelia  acumi- 
nata, L.  albida,  L.  anceps,  Limatodes  bicolor,  Oncidium  flexuosum, 
0.  leucochilum,  O.  sphacelatum,  and  Phains  grandifolius. 

The  varieties  comprised  in  the  second  class  are  so  numerous 
that  it  will  be  necessary  to  divide  them  into  sections,  according  to 
the  temperature  in  which  they  can  be  the  most  successfully  cul- 
tivated. 

High  Tempeeatuee. — 2Erides  affine,  2E.  Lobbi,  2E.  suavissima, 
2E.  virens,  Burlingtonia  Candida,  B.  fragrans,  Goslogyne  pandurata, 
Gyprlpedium  barbatum,  and  varieties  ;  G.  Fairrieanum,  G.  Mrsu- 
tissimum,  G.  villosum,  Denclrochilum  glumaceum,  Oncidium  amplia- 
tum  majus,  O.  Lanceanum,  Phalcenopsis  amabilis,  P.  grandiflora,  P. 
Schilleriana,  Saccolabium  Blumei,  S.  guttatum,  8.  retusum,  Vanda 
ccerulea,  V.  insignis,  V,  suavis,  V.  tricolor.  The  Phalamopsis,  Sacco- 
labiums,  and  Vandas  are  rather  expensive,  but  they  are  remarkably 
beautiful,  and  well  worth  the  outlay  incurred  in  their  purchase. 

Inteemediate  Temperature. — Gattleya  amabilis,  G.  crispa, 
G.  Dowiana,  G.  intermedia,  G.  labiata,  G.  maxima,  G.  mossiai,  G.  Skin- 
neri, C.  Tricmce,  G.  Warneri,  Gcelogyne  cristata,  Dendrobium  albo- 
sanguineum,  B>.  chrysanthum,  D.  chrysotoxum,  D.  densiflorum,  D. 
Devonianum,  D.  Farmeri,  D.  moniliforme,  D.  ParisJii,  D.  Paxtoni, 
FJpidendrum  macrochilum,  Laslia  auhimnalis,  L.  majalis,  L.  pxwpu- 
rata,  Miltonia  Moreliana,  M.  spectabilis,  Oncidium  altissimum,  0. 
ornithorliynclium,  0.  papilio,  O.  pidvinatum,  Phaius  Walliehi,  Stan- 
Jiopea  oculata,  0.  tigrina,  Tliunia  albus,  T.  Bensoniai,  Trichopilia 
eoccinea,  T.  suavis,  Zygopetalum  crinitum  cazruleum. 

Cool  Tempeeatuee. — Barkeria  Skinneri,  B.  spectabilis,  Gattleya 
citrina,  Gypripedium  insigne,  G.  venustum,  Epidendrum  aurantiacum, 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND   GARDEN   GUIDE.  165 

E.  dichromum  amabile,  Ionopsis  panieulata,  Odontoglossum  Alexandres, 
0.  citrosmum,  0.  cordatum,  0.  grande,  0.  Insleayi,  0.  luteo-pur- 
pureum,  0.  membraceum,  O.  phalcenopsis,  0.  pulchellwm,  0.  Rossi 
superbum,  O.  triumplians,  Oiwidium  crispum,  Pleione  lagenaria, 
and  P.  WallicM. 


SELECT  ZONAL  AND  VARIEGATED  PELARGONIUMS. 

BY    JOnN   WALSH. 


[HE  list  of  zonal  and  variegated  pelargoniums  has  swollen 
to  such  an  inordinate  size,  that  it  is  not  by  any  means 
an  easy  task  to  criticise  fairly  on  the  new  varieties  when 
introduced  to  public  notice,  or  to  make  out  the  best 
selection  possible  of  the  older  sorts  according  to  the 
purposes  for  -which  they  are  required.  It  is  very  easy  to  make  out 
a  list  of  good  kinds  ;  but  it  is  another  matter  to  make  a  selection 
which  shall  include  the  very  best,  and  the  best  only,  in  the  several 
classes.  For  my  part,  if  I  did  not  possess  unusual  facilities  for 
becoming  well  acquainted  with  the  best  of  new  kinds  before  they 
are  put  in  commerce,  and  for  thoroughly  testing  them  afterwards,  I 
should  shrink  from  the  task  of  offering  advice  on  such  an  important 
matter ;  and  even  now  I  approach  ic  with  a  considerable  degree  of 
diffidence.  In  all  the  classes,  with  the.  exception  of  the  white- 
edged  and  golden-leaved,  several  new  varieties,  possessing  consider- 
able merit,  are  now  offered  for  the  first  time,  and  for  the  assistance 
of  buyers  of  novelties,  it  will,  perhaps,  be  desirable  to  dispose  of 
them  first. 

Amongst  the  Golden  Zonals,  first  place  must  be  given  to 
Macbeth,  a  grand  variety  in  the  hands  of  Messrs.  Bell  and  Thorpe, 
of  Stratford-on-Avon.  The  leaves  are  of  splendid  form,  stout,  and 
massive,  and  the  colour  is  heavily  laid  on  ;  indeed,  it  is  the  nearest 
approach  to  perfection  we  yet  have  seen,  and  well  deserved  the  first- 
class  certificate  conferred  upon  it  by  the  Royal  Horticultural 
Society  when  first  exhibited.  The  Rev.  R.  Benyon,  in  the  hands  of 
Messrs.  E.  G.  Henderson  and  Son,  of  the  Wellington  Road  Nursery, 
is  wonderfully  brilliant  in  colour,  although  hardly  so  perfect  in  form 
as  one  could  wish,  and  must  be  added  to  the  most  select  list,  for  it  is 
a  grand  bedder,  and  in  every  way  a  most  desirable  acquisition. 
Miss  Goring  and  Mrs.  Grieve,  which  are  both  in  the  hands  of  the  last- 
mentioned  firm,  are  also  very  desirable.  The  leaves  of  each  are  of 
fine  form,  and  the  colours  are  sharply  defined  and  wonderfully  rich 
and  brilliant.  The  first-named  is  also  most  valuable  for  winter 
decoration,  as  the  rich  vermilion  zone  retains  its  brilliancy  through- 
out the  whole  year.  Ettie  Beale,  now  being  sent  out  by  Messrs. 
Carter  and  Co.,  of  High  Holborn,  deserves  mention,  as  it  is  well 
entitled  to  a  place  amongst  the  most  select.  Mr.  Butter,  which 
has  been  exhibited  several  times  by  Mr.  C.  Turner,  is  of  a  different 
type  to  the  preceding  ;  and  for  those  who  care  more  for  form  than 


166  THE  FLORAL   WORLD   AND   GARDEN    GUIDE. 

colour,  although  it  is  hy  no  means  dull,  it  will  be  much  appreciated. 
It  is  worthy  of  mention,  as  an  evidence  that  their  merits  have  not 
been  over-estimated,  that  all  the  above  have  received  first-class 
certificates  from  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society. 

The  new  additions  to  the  list  of  Silver  Zonals  are  not  by  any 
means  so  satisfactory  as  those  in  the  class  just  dealt  with.  The  only 
varieties  I  have  seen  which  can  be  recommended  as  superior  to 
those  which  can  be  obtained  at  a  much  cheaper  rate  are  Mrs.  Hornby 
and  Princess  Beatrice-,  belonging  to  Mr.  Turner  and  Mr.  Plant 
respectively ;  and  Clorinda  and  Mysterious  JS7igJit,  the  property  of 
Messrs.  E.  Gr.  Henderson  and  Son.  Lass  o'  Gowrie  is  perhaps  the 
most  valuable  of  all  the  silver  zonals,  and  is  expensive  as  yet ;  but 
it  is  hardly  entitled  to  a  place  here,  because  it  has  been  in  commerce 
one  or  two  seasons. 

In  the  Bronze  Zonal  section,  first  and  foremost  stand  the  mag- 
nificent varieties  in  the  hands  of  Messrs.  Downie,  Laird,  and  Laing, 
of  Forest  Hill,  who  have  done  so  much  in  the  improvement  of  this 
useful  class.  All  the  varieties  they  are  now  offering  are  good,  but  if 
only  two  can  be  afforded,  preference  should  be  given  to'  Black 
Douglas  and  Beine  Victoria,  because  of  their  extreme  effectiveness 
and  distinctness  of  character. 

The  Silver  and  Golden  Variegated  varieties  cannot  boast  of  any 
improvement.  There  are  no  new  kinds  on  offer  this  season.  Pos- 
tan's  Snow-wreath,  and  Virgin  Queen,  and  Cannell's  Mrs.  J.  G. 
Mappin,  three  white-edged  varieties,  with  white  flowers,  which  are 
all  most  valuable  for  edging  purposes.  Ample  amends  are,  however, 
made  in  the  zonal  sections  with  green  leaves,  for  the  new  varieties 
now  being  sent  out  for  the  first  time  may  be  numbered  by  the 
dozen.  The  best  for  bedding  are  undoubtedly  Cannell's  Master 
Christine,  a  dwarf-growing  and  free-flowering  variety,  with  flowers 
of  the  Christine  hue  of  pink ;  but  it  is  much  dwarfer  in  growth,  and 
the  flowers  are  stouter  and  of  better  form  than  that  variety.  Hib- 
berd's  Feast  of  Boses,  a  dwarf  nosegay,  producing  medium-sized 
trusses  of  rich  rosy-pink  flowers  in  the  greatest  profusion.  Bell  and 
Thorpe's  Charles  Dickens,  a  neat  grower,  and  a  most  profuse  flower- 
ing variety,  with  flowers  of  a  rich  rosy  puce  colour.  Denny's 
lanthe,  bluish  crimson,  of  a  similar  shade  to  Madame  Mezard.  Downie, 
Laird,  and  Laing's  Star  of  Fire,  a  neat  dwarf-growing  and  free- 
flowering  nosegay,  with  flowers  of  the  most  brilliant  scarlet ;  and 
Hibberd's  Lilac  Banner,  also  neat  in  growth  and  free-flowering, 
and  very  valuable  in  the  flower-garden,  because  of  its  distinct 
colour. 

The  best  twelve  new  varieties  for  pot-culture  are  Denny's 
Haidee,  magenta,  with  bluish  shade ;  Sir  C.  Napier,  dark  scarlet ; 
Denny's  Wellington,  maroon  scarlet ;  Hibberd's  Alice  Spencer,  pure 
white,  tinted  with  carmine  at  the  base ;  Cannell's  Pride  of  LCent, 
orange  scarlet,  with  extra  fine  foliage ;  "Windsor's  Conflagration, 
scarlet;  Downie,  Laird,  and  Laing's  George  Peabodi/,  deep  rich 
scarlet,  very  rich  and  effective  ;  Downie,  Laird,  and  Laing's  Pink 
May  Queen,  deep  rosy  pink,  a  grand  nosegay  for  pot-culture  ;  and 
Smith's  Mr.  Gladstone,  deep  crimson  scarlet,  of  the  single-flowering 


THE   FLORAL   WOULD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE.  1G7 

varieties.  Add  Bell  and  Thorpe's  Miss  Evelyn,  bright  rosy  pink  ; 
Cannell's  Grown  Prince,  deep  rosy  peach ;  Cannell's  King  of  the 
Doubles,  bright  cerise,  flowers  extra  large,  and  grand  for  hand  and 
button-hole  bouquets  ;  and  Paul's  Pink  Perfection,  of  the  double- 
flowering  varieties. 

For  pot  culture,  in  addition  to  the  above,  the  following  twenty- 
four  are  very  desirable,  namely — Single  :  Richard  Meadly,  Blue  Bell, 
Dr.  Koch,  jean  Sisley,  William  Underwood,  Windsor's  Bride,  CJrris- 
tabel,  Maiden's  Blush,  Mrs.  Sack,  Surpasse  Beaute  du  Bwresnes, 
Eugenie  Mezard,  Mada/me  Mezard,  Madame  Werle,  Gloire  de  Cor- 
bervy,  Coleshill,  Mrs.  Keeler,  Othello,  Amelina  Grisau.  Double : 
Charles  Glym,  Prim-ess  of  Teclc,  Victor  Lemoine,  Ville  de  Nancy, 
Mar/''  Lemoine,  Madame  Michel  Buchner. 

The  best  twenty-four  of  the  older  gold,  silver,  and  bronze  zonals 
for  pot  culture  are — Gold  :  Mrs.  Headly,  Prince  of  Wales,  Victoria 
Regina,  The  Moonstone,  Sophia  Cusach,  Lady  Cullum,  Mrs.  Turner, 
Mrs.  Dnunett,  Queen  Victoria,  Humming  Bird,  Plutarch.  Silver: 
Miss  Burdett  Coutts,  Princess  Beatrice,  Mabel  Morris,  Caroline 
Longfield,  Imperatrice  Eugenie,  Banshee.  Bronze:  Imperatrice 
Eugenie,  Mrs.  John  Lee,  W.  R.  Morris,  Princess  of  Wales,  Harrison 
Weir,  St.  John's  Wood  Star,  Fairy  King,  Waltham  Bronze,  Sybil. 

For  bedding  purposes  the  following  are  the  best  that  could  pos- 
sibly be  had  in  the  several  classes  :— Zonals  and  nosegay :  Scarlet, 
Thomas  Moore,  Jean  Sisley,  Orbiculata,  Attraction,  Bonfire,  Morning 
Star.  Orange  and  Salmon,  Hibberd's  Orange  Nosegay,  President 
Barber ot,  Jean  Valdean.  Crimson  and  purple  tinted,  Le  Grand, 
Duchess  of  Sutherland,  Black  Dwarf,  Murillo,  Bayard,  Waltham 
Seedling.  Rose  and  pink  tinted,  Christine,  Hibberd's  May  Queen, 
Kate  Nicholson,  Madlle.  Nilsson.  Cerise,  Tristram  Shandy,  Lucius, 
Cherry  Lips.  Lilac  and  purplish  rose,  Amy  Hogg,  Duchess,  Dr. 
Hogg,  Blue  Bell,  Lilac  Rival.  "White,  White  Wonder,  White 
Princess. 

Golden  zonals,  Beautiful  Star,  Louisa  Smith,  Madonna,  Mrs. 
Pollock,  Rising  Sun,  Sophia  Cusach.  Silver  zonals,  Italia  TJnita, 
Nydia,  Queen  of  Hearts,  Imperatrice  Eugenie,  Flying  Cloud,  Charm- 
ing Bride.  Bronze  zonals,  Egyptian  Queen,  Climax,  Kentish  Hero, 
Princess  of  Wales,  Mrs.  Lewis  Lloyd,  Fairy  Ring,  E.  G.  Henderson, 
Mulberry  'Zone,  Imperatrice  Eugenie.  "White  and  creamy  variegated, 
Albion  Cliffs,  Bright  Star,  Flower  of  Spring,  Silver  Chain,  Bijou, 
Oriana,  Snowdrop,  Queen  of  Queens,  Daybreak,  Princess  Alexandra, 
Waltham  Bride,  Avalanche.  Golden-leaved:  Crimson  Banner, 
Golden  Banner,  Crystal  Pedace  Gem,  Star  of  Gold,  Gold  Circle, 
Creed's  Seedling,  Golden  Fleece,  Little  Golden  Christine,  Yellow  Gem, 
Gem  of  Brilliants,  Jason,  Waltham  Gem.  Meridian  Sun,  one  of  Mr. 
Hibberd's  newest  of  the  new,  will  be  the  leading  favourite  for 
masses  of  golden  yellow  leafage  for  many  years  to  come. 


168  THE  FLORAL   WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

BEDDEES  AND  BEDDING.— No.  IV. 

BY     A.     HEAD      GAB.DENER. 
SUBTROPICAL  PLANTS. 

[T  would  be  absurd  to  fill  the  flower  garden  with  masses  of 
Cannas,  Castor-oil  plants,  and  Solanums,  to  the  ex- 
clusion of  flowering  plants,  and  no  matter  how  extensively 
they  may  be  planted  in  the  public  parks,  they  should 
play  a  very  subordinate  part  indeed  in  private  gardens 
of  limited  dimensions.  Plants  remarkable  for  their  stately  growth  or 
elegant  leafage  are  very  well,  provided  they  are  surrounded  with  bril- 
liant colours  to  relieve  their  heaviness,  but  without  they  can  be  balanced 
with  flowering  plants,  they  had  better  be  omitted  from  the  arrange- 
ments altogether.  In  all  private  gardens  they  should  be  employed 
very  sparingly,  and  a  few  single  specimens  of  good  things  should  be 
preferred  to  masses  of  plants  of  a  second-rate  character.  Holding 
these  views,  the  selection  of  subtropicals  will  be  very  limited,  and 
will  include  only  such  as  can  be  thoroughly  recommended.  In 
small  gardens  it  is  a  very  good  plan  to  back  up  the  mixed  border 
with  a  bank  of  subtropical  plants,  including  as  many  good  things  as 
can  be  procured  for  the  sake  of  affording  as  much  variety  as  it  is 
possible  to  obtain  in  a  limited  space.  Another  good  plan  for  dealing 
with  them  in  small  gardens  is  to  have  two  or  three  beds  filled  with 
a  mixed  collection,  or  to  put  single  specimens  in  the  centre  of  beds 
that  stand  out  singly  upon  the  lawn,  and  are  planted  with  flowering 
plants.  Very  choice  specimen  palms,  india-rubber  plants,  and  tree 
ferns,  where  the  situation  is  shaded  from  the  sun,  may  be  placed 
singly  on  the  grass,  and  the  pots  or  tubs  sunk  below  the  level.  Apart 
from  the  eligibility  of  the  specimens  for  the  respective  situations, 
the  only  matter  to  consider  in  putting  them  in  their  allotted  posi- 
tions is  to  make  the  holes  from  one  to  two  feet  deeper  than  the 
space  occupied  by  the  pots.  The  bottom  of  the  holes  must  be  then 
filled  to  the  required  depth,  with  large  pieces  of  brick  or  stone,  or  a 
pot  can  be  turned  bottom  upwards  instead.  This  precaution  is 
necessary  to  prevent  the  soil  in  the  pots  becoming  sour  through 
remaining  in  a  saturated  state,  owing  to  the  inability  of  the  water  to 
escape  quickly.  In  very  sandy  soils  it  is  not  so  important  to  have 
a  hollow  space  underneath  the  pots  as  in  those  of  a  more  retentive 
character,  but  in  the  lightest  soils  the  pots  ought  not  to  stand  upon 
the  soil  in  the  bottom.  The  majority  of  plants  used  for  subtropical 
gardening  do  much  better  when  planted  upon  beds  raised  from  twelve 
to  eighteen  inches  above  the  level,  but  for  such  things  as  will  be 
here  recommended,  it  is  not  necessary  to  incur  the  labour  and 
expense  of  raising  them,  excepting  in  low  damp  situations.  To 
assist  the  planter  the  average  height  in  feet  of  each  will  be  given. 

My  selection  for  a  small  or  medium-sized  garden  would  comprise 
Acacia  lophantha,  6 ;  Acanthus  latifolius,  4 ;  Andropogon  formosum, 
8 ;  Aralia  papyrifera,  5 ;  A.  Sieboldi,  4 ;  Arundo  conspicua,  6 ; 
Bocconia    cordata  rotundifolia,  3  ;    B.    japonicv,  5  ;     Canna   Annei 


TIIE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 


169 


superla,  5  ;  C.  Bilwrelli,  4  ;  C.  CJ/atei  sanguinea,  6  ;  C.  expansa,  4  ; 
C.  Lemonei,  6  ;  C.  nigricans,  6  ;  C.  Premices  du  Nice,  7 ;  Cannabis 
gigantea,  6 ;  Cliamwpuce  cassabonoc,  1  ;  C.  diacantlia,  1  ;  Dahlia 
Imperialis,  8  ;  Datura  fastuosa  Huberiana,  fl.  pi.  4  ;  Eucalyptus 
globulus,  6  ;  Ferdinandia  eminens,  8  ;  Melianthus  major,  3  ;  Nicotiana- 
macrophylla  gigantea,  6 ;  N.  Wigandioides,  6  ;  Ricinus  bourbonensis^ 
7  ;  R.  compactus,  6 ;  i?.  Obermanni,  8  ;  R.  sanguineus  tricolor,  7  ; 
Solanum  acantliocarpum,  5  ;  S.  marginatum,  5  ;  iS.  robustum,  4  ; 
8.  Warscewiczi,  3 ;  TF^cwicfo'oi  caracasana,  4<  ;  W7".  urens,  3  ;  and  Ze«. 
japonica  variegata,  5. 

Special  reference  must  be  made  to  the  very  distinct  and  beau- 
tiful Cyperus papyrus,  which  is  so  admirably  adapted  for  the  embel- 


CYPEEUS     PAPYRUS. 


lishment  of  water  scenes,  as  shown  in  the  accompanying  illustration. 
They  require  a  very  moist  position,  and  do  much  the  best  when  planted 
close  upon  the  edge  of  the  water.  It  is  very  easily  raised  from 
seed,  but  the  seed  cannot  be  obtained,  so  far  as  I  am  aware,  except 
at  Messrs.  Hooper  and  Co.,  Central  Avenue,  Covent  Garden.  It  is, 
however,  by  no  means  dear.  I  think  it  was  a  shilling  1  paid  Messrs. 
H  ooper  for  a  packet  of  seed,  and  we  have  now  a  nice  stock.  To 
raise  a  stock  for  next  year,  the  seed  should  be  sown  at  once,  and 
the  plants  grown  on  in  a  warm  corner  of  the  greenhouse  during  the 
summer.  The  pots  should  be  stood  in  pans  containing  two  ox  three 
inches  of  water.  The  above-mentioned  firm  also  offer  seed  of  Cyperus 
vegetatus,  which  bears  a  strong  resemblance  to  the  preceding,  but 
does  not  exceed  eighteen  inches  in  height,  and  is,  therefore,  very 


170  THE  FLORAL   WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 

valuable  for  situations  where  the  strong-growing  G.  papyrus  would 
not  be  admissible. 

The  stately  Dalilia  Imperialis,  if  taken  up  in  a  careful  manner, 
and  potted  some  time  about  the  end  of  September,  and  then  placed 
in  a  warm  greenhouse,  will  flower  superbly  until  Christmas,  and 
present  a  fine  appearance  in  conjunction  with  the  Chrysanthemum. 


ASTEES  FOE  CONSEEVATOEY  DECOEATION. 

BY   THOMAS   TETJSSLEE, 

Head  Gardener,  High  Leigh,  Hoddesdon,  Herts. 

EFOEE  the  season  is  too  far  advanced  I  am  anxious  to 
say  a  word  about  the  cultivation  of  asters  in  pots  for 
conservatory  decoration.  It  is  true  it  is  well  to  furnish 
the  conservatory  during  the  summer  and  autumn  with 
plants  as  different  as  possible  from  those  in  the  flower 
garden,  yet  a  few  asters  in  pots  when  well  grown  present  such  a 
cheerful  appearance  that  no  reasonable  objection  can  be  made  to 
their  introduction  into  the  conservatory  in  moderate  numbers. 
These  remarks  would  perhaps  have  been  more  useful  a  month  since, 
but  there  is  yet  time  to  rise  a  stock  of  plants  if  the  seed  is  sown 
without  delay,  as  the  asters  are  not  really  wanted  in  the  conservatory 
until  quite  the  end  of  the  season. 

It  is  not  desirable  to  weary  the  reader  with  directions  for  sowing 
seed,  pricking  off,  and  other  details,  because  the  merest  tyro  will 
have  some  knowledge  of  these  matters.  It  is,  however,  necessary 
to  state  that  the  plants  must  not  be  allowed  to  remain  in  the  seed- 
pans  until  they  are  nearly  spoilt  before  they  are  pricked  off.  Pro- 
bably the  best  plan  for  dealing  with  both  stocks  and  asters  is  to  sow 
the  seed  in  drills  in  a  cold  frame,  and  then  it  is  not  necessary  to 
disturb  the  plants  until  they  have  acquired  sufficient  strength  to 
bear  handling  without  injury.  The  object  of  these  remarks  is  not 
so  much  for  the  purpose  of  giving  directions  for  raising  the  seed,  as 
it  is  to  suggest  the  desirability  of  putting  a  few  of  those  not  required 
for  the  flower  garden  into  pots  instead  of  throwing  them  away. 

Asters,  whether  planted  out,  or  grown  in  pots,  require  a 
moderately  rich  soil  to  do  them  justice.  The  compost  in  which  they 
will  succeed  best  when  in  pots  is  turfy  loam  and  decayed  manure 
from  an  old  hotbed,  prepared  by  mixing  three  parts  of  the  former  to 
one  of  the  latter.  Eive  or  six  inch  pots  are  very  suitable  sizes  in 
which  to  grow  them,  and  two  or  three  plants  should  be  put  in  each. 
In  preparing  the  pots  place  three  or  four  moderate-sized  crocks  in 
the  bottom,  then  fill  with  the  prepared  soil,  and  prick  out  the  plants 
at  equal  distances  apart  round  the  outside.  Each  pot  should  be 
filled  with  plants  that  will  produce  flowers  of  the  same  colour,  other- 
wise the  effect  will  be  far  from  satisfactory  when  they  are  in  bloom. 
After  they  are  all  pricked  off  plunge  them  in  a  bed  of  leaf-mould, 
or  partly  decayed  manure  in  the  borders.     In  either  case  the  pots 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 


171 


must  stand  upon  a  hard  bottom  to  prevent  the  worms  getting  into 
the  pots.  When  leaf-mould  or  manure  is  used,  it  is  a  good  plan  to 
first  of  all  make  up  a  bed  of  coal-asbes,  and  then  only  put  sufficient 
material  to  reach  to  the  rim  of  the  pots  when  they  stand  upon  the 
ashes.  When  plunged  in  the  border  a  pot  must  be  placed  in  an 
inverted  position  in  the  bottom  of  the  hole  to  stand  the  other  upon. 
This  precaution  is  necessary  to  enable  the  water  to  drain  away 
quickly,  as  well  as  for  the  purpose  of  keeping  the  worms  out.  They 
should  be  put  at  a  distance  of  twelve  inches  apart,  in  rows  not  less 
than  fifteen  inches  from  each  other,  because  it  is  most  essential  to 
put  them  far  enough  apart  to  enable  the  air  to  circulate  freely  about 
them  and  prevent  them  being  drawn  up,  or  the  loss  of  the  lower 
leaves. 

After  the  pots  are  filled  with  roots,  water  with  liquid  manure  if 
convenient  to  do  so ;  but  if  not,  be  content  with  watering  with  clear 
soft  water.     They  must  not,  under  any  consideration,  be  allowed 


P2EONY-FLCWEP.ED    GLOBE    ASTER. 


to  suffer  for  the  want  of  water,  and  in  dry  weather  an  occasional 
sprinkle  overhead  through  a  rather  coarse  rose  will  be  of  immense 
benefit.  They  should  be  taken  to  the  conservatory  as  soon  as  the 
flowers  begin  to  show  colour,  and  placed  in  an  open  airy  position,  if 
practicable. 

The  best  for  pot  culture  are  the  varieties  of  the  Divarf  Clirysan- 
ilirmwn-flowered,  which  seldom  exceed  a  height  of  twelve  inches, 
and  require  little  or  no  support.  The  most  distinct  varieties  are 
those  with  rose,  carmine,  violet,  and  pure  lohite  flowers. 

The  JPceony-floivered  Globe,  sent  out  by  Messrs.  Hooper  and 
Co.  of  Covent  Garden,  is  also  good  in  pots,  but  invaluable  for 
garden  decoration.  The  accompanying  figure  will  afford  a  good 
idea  of  its  general  habit  when  it  has  sufficient  space  for  its  full 
development. 


173  THE  FLORAL    WOULD   AND   GARDEN    GUIDE. 

TOMATOES. 

EX    GEOKGE    GEAY, 
Head  Gardener,  Norbiton  Hall,  Kingston-on-Thames. 

[NTIL  the  last  few  years,  the  cultivation  of  tomatoes  was 
confined  almost  exclusively  to  the  gardens  of  the 
wealthy ;  but  now,  so  much  has  their  popularity  in- 
creased, they  are  grown  more  or  less  in  the  gardens 
of  all  classes.  It  is  not  likely  that  the  tomato  will  ever 
attain  in  this  country  to  the  degree  of  popularity  it  enjoys  at  the 
present  time  in  America ;  but  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  when  its 
cultivation  and  the  manner  of  preparing  the  fruit  for  table  are  better 
understood,  there  will  be  very  few  gardens  indeed  in  which  it  is 
not  grown  extensively. 

Excepting  in  the  southern  and  midland  parts  of  the  country,  the 
plants  must,  to  enable  them  to  .produce  good  crops,  have  the 
assistance  of  a  wall,  or  close  boarded  fence  ;  and  they  do  better  even 
in  the  most  favoured  districts  when  trained  to  a  wall  or  fence  having  a 
south  aspect.  They  do  well  on  east  and  west  aspects,  but  an  aspect 
due  south  is  decidedly  preferable.  Good  crops  can  be  produced  on 
sloping  banks ;  and  those  who  have  no  wall  or  fence  on  which  to 
train  the  plants  may  succeed  very  well  by  throwing  up  a  bank  of 
soil  having  a  sharp  slope  of  about  three  feet.  The  trench  from 
which  the  soil  is  obtained  for  making  the  mound  should  be  made  on 
the  north  side,  because  they  require  all  the  warmth  at  the  roots  they 
can  have,  and  it  is  therefore  not  desirable  to  plant  below  the  general 
level. 

In  the  southern  and  midland  counties  good  crops  can  be  grown 
in  the  open  borders,  and  trained  to  stakes,  or  the  growth  may  be 
.supported  with  ordinary  pea-sticks,  in  exactly  the  same  manner  as 
peas.  Those  put  out  in  the  open  quarters  should  be  planted  upon 
beds  measuring  thirty  inches  across  the  top  and  about  twelve  inches 
above  the  general  level.  The  beds  can  be  easily  made  by  forming 
a  twelve-iuch  trench  on  each  side,  and  taking  out  sufficient  soil  to 
raise  them  to  the  desired  height.  The  surface  of  the  beds  should  be 
perfectly  level,  to  prevent  the  rain  running  off,  and  also  to  facilitate 
watering,  in  case  it  becomes  necessary,  during  the  summer. 

One  of  the  most  essential  conditions  for  insuring  success  is  to 
secure  strong  plants  by  the  time  the  season  is  sufficiently  advanced 
for  planting  them  out.  As  the  weather  is  seldom  favourable  enough 
to  admit  of  their  being  planted  out,  without  they  can  be  protected, 
before  the  end  of  May,  it  is  a  more  excellent  plan  to  shift  them  into 
eight-inch  pots  in  the  early  part  of  the  month.  It  is,  however,  a  much 
better  plan  to  plant  them  out  in  the  first  or  second  week  of  May, 
and  protect  them  with  Looker's  Patent  Plant-covers,  which  were 
figured  and  described  in  the  August  number  of  the  Floeal  Woeld  of 
last  year.  Strong  plants  put  out  early  in  May,  and  these  covers  put 
over  them,  and  ventilated  freely  in  congenial  weather,  will  be  well 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  173 

established  long  before  it  would  be  safe  to  put  them  out  without 
protection.  The  covers  are  certainly  one  of  the  most  valuable  aids 
the  amateur  can  possibly  have. 

Previous  to  planting,  fork  in  a  moderate  dressing  of  leaf-mould 
or  vegetable  manure  if  the  soil  is  at  all  heavy,  and  ordinary  hotbed 
manure  if  it  is  inclined  to  be  light.  The  soil  must  not  be 
manured  too  heavily,  or  the  plants  will  grow  too  luxuriantly  to 
bear  well. 

Commence  training  immediately  the  plants  begin  to  grow  freely, 
whether  trained  to  walls  or  stakes.  Spread  the  branches  out  rather 
widely  apart,  and  remove  all  the  small  shoots  that  are  not  really 
required  to  prevent  overcrowding.  Stop  the  main  branches  when 
about  three  feet  in  height,  and  stop  all  the  laterals  one  joint  above 
each  cluster  of  fruit  as  soon  as  it  is  set.  All  young  wood  that  is 
produced  after  sufficient  fruit  is  set  must  be  removed  immediately  it 
is  a  few  inches  in  length,  to  prevent  the  energies  of  the  plants  being 
devoted  to  the  production  of  useless  wood,  instead  of  the  maturation 
of  the  crop.  It  is  also  a  very  good  plan  to  remove  any  of  the 
large  leaves  that  overhang  the  clusters  of  fruit  as  soon  as  it  is 
nearly  full  grown,  to  enable  the  sun  to  act  directly  upon  it. 

Very  excellent  crops  may  be  grown  in  pots ;  and  that  system  of 
culture  can  be  strongly  recommended  to  those  who  have  only  a  little 
garden,  as  the  plants  can  be  placed  in  any  out-of-the-way  corner, 
provided  they  can  have  full  exposure  to  the  sun.  The  stopping  and 
training  must  be  much  the  same  as  advised  above  for  the  plants  in 
the  open  border,  and  they  can  be  easily  supported  with  neat  stakes. 
Pot  in  a  compost,  consisting  of  good  turfy  loam  and  a  small  portion 
of  manure,  and  when  the  fruit  is  swelling  off,  water  with  weak 
liquid  manure,  if  the  plants  show  signs  of  exhaustion. 

The  fruit  should  be  gathered  as  soon  as  it  is  thoroughly  ripened, 
and  towards  the  end  of  the  autumn  any  that  is  still  immature  may 
be  gathered  and  ripened  cff  in  a  warm  room,  provided  it  is  nearly  or 
quite  full  grown.  The  best  and  most  productive  kinds  are  the 
Orangefield,  General  Grant,  and  Hepper's  Goliath.  The  Common 
Bed  is  exceedingly  good,  and  for  small  gardens  will,  in  conjunction 
with  the  first-named,  be  sufficient  for  all  purposes.  The  so-called 
upright  grower,  Tomato  de  Laye,  is  very  late  in  ripening,  and  compa- 
ratively worthless  in  this  country  because  of  the  shortness  of  the 
summer. 


Early  Peas. — Mr.  G.  Green,  gardener  to  tie  Ven.  Archdeacon  Fitzgerald,  of 
Charlton  Mackerell,  Taunton,  picked  his  first  dish  of  peas  on  the  10th  of  May,  although, 
he  might  have  done  so  on  the  8th.  The  sort  was  "Sutton's  Ringleader."  They 
•were  sown  in  the  open  air  on  Nov.  19,  and  have  had  but  little  protection.—  Western 
Gazette,  May  13. 

Scarlet  Runners. — Plant  them  in  trenches  two  feet  -wide  and  three  feet  in 
depth  ;  the  bottom  spit  being  thrown  out  on  one  side,  and  about  the  same  quantity 
of  vegetable  refuse,  ov  goo  1  manure,  incorporated  with  the  soil.  When  the  trenching 
is  done,  the  soil  from  the  bottom  is  placed  in  a  ridge  on  each  side  of  the  trench,  to 
prevent  the  water  applied  o  the  rows  running  all  over  the  quarter,  instead  of  soaking 
down  to  the  roots.     The  produce  will  be  enormous. 


174  THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND   GARDEN   GUIDE. 


THE  SETTING  OE  MUSCAT  GRAPES. 

HE  setting  of  Muscat  grapes,  and  indeed  of  all  other  kinds 
of  grapes  that  are  reputed  to  be  "shy,"  or  that  fail  to 
fruit  freely  unless  skilfully  treated,  affords  a  subject 
worthy  of  special  consideration  at  any  time  amongst 
English  cultivators,  because  even  doctors  do  occasionally 
differ,  and  some  of  the  most  successful  practitioners  in  the  vinery 
hold  diverse  views  as  to  the  best  mode  of  procedure  for  insuring  a 
crop.  In  our  "  Garden  Guide,"  this  subject  has  always  received 
considerable  attention,  aud  we  have  frequently  remarked  on  the 
necessity  of  obtaining  and  maintaining  in  the  house  during  the  time 
the  vines  are  in  flower,  conditions  favourable  to  the  development  aud 
diffusion  of  the  pollen,  such  as  sufficient  fire-heat,  a  moderate  degree 
of  humidity,  and  a  moving  atmosphere.  "VVe  have  seen  in  so  many 
instances  varieties  of  grapes  reputed  to  be  shy,  made  to  bear  abun- 
dant crops  through  attention  being  paid  to  the  three  main  conditions 
of  success,  that  we  can  scarcely  hesitate  to  attribute  failures  to  bad 
management  in  at  least  niue-teutbs  of  the  complaints  that  reach  us 
of  the  refusal  of  Muscats  to  compensate  their  owners  with  the  much- 
coveted  bunches.  It  is  rather  commonly  believed — though,  strange 
to  say,  not  so  commonly  acted  on — that  excessive  heat  and  a  per- 
fectly dry  atmosphere  are  essential  conditions  for  success  in  the 
setting  of  Muscats  ;  and  the  man  who  has  a  "  Muscat  house,"  and  is 
not  compelled  to  crowd  it  with  pot-plants  requiring  somewhat  diffe- 
rent treatment,  may  actually  roast  his  vines,  if  he  believe  in  roast- 
ing, and  judge  of  the  value  of  his  doctrine  by  the  result  simply.  It 
is  as  well  that  all  who  have  to  deal  with  Muscats  should  clearly 
understand  that  the  roasting  system  is  a  delusion,  and  must  be 
abandoned  by  all  who  would  truly  succeed  in  the  cultivation  of 
Muscats. 

The  conditions  requisite  to  the  well-doing  of  Muscats  in  flower 
may  be  stated  thus  :  Temperature  to  range  from  70°  at  night  to  75° 
by  day,  allowing  a  rise  to  85°  with  sun-heat.  The  floor  of  the  house 
to  be  moistened  about  half-past  seven  in  the  morning  and  about 
four  in  the  afternoon ;  the  air  kept  moving  always ;  when  the 
flowers  are  expanded,  each  bunch  to  have  a  slight  shake  once  a  day. 

S.  H. 


EAISING  BEGONIAS  FROM  LEAVES. 


jARIEGATED  Begonias  are  usually  propagated  from 
leaves.  To  treat  them  in  this  way,  select  of  this  sea- 
son's leaves  such  as  are  gi-own  nearly  or  quite  to 
their  full  size,  and  consequently  are  firm  and  not  likely 
to  damp  off.  Take  the  leaves  off  with  about  one  or 
two  inches  of  leaf-stalk,  and  if  you  require  as  many  plants  from  a 
leaf  as  you  can  obtain,  take  an  ordinary  shallow  seed-pan,  and  after 
preparing  it  in  the  usual  way,  insert  the  stalk  portion  of  the  leaf 


THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  175 

near  the  side  of  the  pan,  and  peg  the  leaf  flat  down  upon  the  surface. 
Before  doing  this,  it  is  as  well  to  cut  through  the  principal  ribs  or 
veins  with  a  sharp  knife.  Plenty  of  roots  will  soon  be  emitted  fro  in 
the  cuts,  and  finally  young  buds  will  start,  and  tiny  plants  be  the 
result.  Plants  will  also  be  produced  where  the  pegs  are  pushed 
through  the  leaf.  It  is  impossible  to  say  how  many  leaves  a  pan 
will  hold,  for  this  part  of  the  question  depends  entirely  upon  its  size 
and  that  of  the  leaves.  We  cover  the  entire  surface  of  our  pans, 
keeping  the  stalks  by  the  sides  of  the  pans.  If  we  have  plenty  of 
leaves  to  deal  with,  we  adopt  a  slightly  different  method  of  procedure. 
Instead  of  using  the  leaf  in  its  entirety,  we  take  the  leaf  with  a 
couple  of  inches  of  stalk  as  before,  and  then  trim  the  blade  of  the 
leaf  away,  leaving  a  small  portion,  about  two  or  three  inches  in 
diameter,  adhering  to  the  stalk.  These  we  insert  round  the  edges  of 
the  cutting-pots  in  exactly  the  same  way  as  an  ordinary  cutting.  It 
is  not  advisable  to  keep  these  cuttings  too  close  or  give  them  too 
much  water,  for  both  conditions,  either  together  or  separately,  are 
sufficient  to  cause  them  to  rot.  When  they  are  nicely  rooted  and  the 
youug  plants  are  formed,  pot  off  into  60's,  and  grow  them  liberally  until 
the  end  of  September,  when  they  must  have  less  water  and  be  kept 
rather  quiet.  It  is  a  very  bad  plan  to  keep  this  section  of  begonias 
growing  all  the  winter,  for  the  constitution  of  the  plant  becomes  so 
thoroughly  weakened  that  they  are  unable  to  make  a  free  vigorous 
growth  in  the  spring,  when  it  is  required  of  them.  E.  W.  P. 


CALCEOLAEIAS  FOE  BEDDING. 

[HIS  intensely  showy  plant  scarcely  merits  to  be  classed 
at  the  very  top  of  the  list  of  first-rate  bedders,  because 
of  its  capriciousness  aud  consequent  frequent  failure  in 
those  hot  seasons  which  bring  most  other  bedding 
plants  to  their  highest  perfection.  The  gardeners  have 
a  good  deal  to  answer  for  on  account  of  its  misuse,  thereby 
affording  the  critics,  who  embrace  every  opportunity  to  appear 
wise  by  abusing  the  bedding  system,  a  powerful  argument  in 
support  of  their  poor  case.  The  chief  fault  of  the  calceolaria  is  its 
inconstancy.  It  is  not  uncommon  for  all  the  calceolarias  in  the 
country  to  perish  about  the  middle  of  July,  leaving  the  parterres 
they  should  have  adorned  with  masses  of  golden  flowers  abominably 
ugly  with  their  withered  stumps,  or,  at  the  best,  obnoxious  blanks. 
Iu  the  experimental  garden  at  Stoke  Newington,  the  cultivation  of 
this  plant  has  received  considerable  attention,  and  it  is  believed 
that  every  difficulty  experienced  by  amateurs  may  be  overcome  by 
the  adoption  of  the  system  of  cultivation  which  will  now  be  re- 
commended. The  only  varieties  suitable  for  bedding  are  those  of 
decidedly  shrubby  habit,  which  produce  comparatively  small  flowers. 
Those  that  have  somewhat  soft  stems,  and  large  leaves  and  large 
flowers,  partake  too  much  of  the  characters  of  the  herbaceous 
section  to  be  fit  for  battling  with  the  vicissitudes  of  outdoor  life, 


176  THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

and,  moreover,  they  always   produce   their   flowers    in  a  series  of 
efforts,  and  not  continuously.     The  proper  time  to  propagate  them 
is  from  the  middle    of   September    to    the    middle    of   November, 
when  they  do  not    require  heat ;    but  they  may   be   very   quickly 
multiplied  by  cuttings  in  a  gentle  heat  in  spring ;  and,  if  the  bummer 
is  favourable  to  calceolarias,  spring-struck  plants  do  well,  though 
they  do  not  begin  to  flower  so   early  as  those  struck  in  autumn. 
There  can  be  no  better    method  of  procedure  than  to  make  up  a 
bed    of   light    soil,    consisting    of    such    materials    as    leaf-mould, 
sweepings  of  a  manure   heap,    half-decayed    moss,    and   the  sandy 
stuff  thrown  out  of  pots  in  the  potting-sheds.     The  bed  should  be 
in  a  frame  or  pit,  within  a  foot  of  the  glass,   or  on  the  border  of  a 
cool  vinery  or  peach-house,  as  near  the  glass  as  possible.     Prepare 
the  cuttings  from  soft  side-shoots,  and  plant  them  firmly  in  the  bed, 
about  three  inches  apart,  and    keep  them  regularly  sprinkled  to 
maintain  their  freshness  until  they  are  rooted,  after  which  they  will 
require  but  little  more  attention  beyond  watering,  ventilating,  and 
protecting  from  frost.     They  must  be  wintered  rather  dry,  and  have 
plenty  of  air,  or  many  will  perish.     There  is  yet  another  extremely 
simple,  but  most  effectual,  method  of  procedure.     Its  first  requisite 
is  a  greenhouse,  or  pit,  which  is  sufficiently   heated  to  keep  out 
frost.     In  this  structure  the  bed  is  to  be  made  up  near  the  glass,  of 
some  such  light  kindly  soil  as  recommended  for  the  frame.     Leave 
the  plants  in  the  ground  until  the   middle  of  October,   or,  if  the 
weather  permits,  until  the  middle  of  November  ;  then   pull  them 
to    pieces    so  as  to  separate  the   best    young   shoots  with  a  heel, 
and  strip  the  bottom    leaves    from    them,    and    dib    them  in,  and 
press  them  firm,  and  the  work  may  be  considered  finished.     As  for 
the  roots,  throw  them  away.     They  may  be  crowded  together  so  as 
to  make  a  solid  field  of  leafage ;  but,  as  a  rule  may  be  useful,  we 
will  say  plant  them  three   inches  apart.      A  slight  sprinkle  over 
the  tops  occasionally  will  be  good    for    them,   but  they   must   be 
kept  rather  dry,  and  must  have  a  little  heat  to  help  them  through 
frosty  weather.     No  matter  which  of  these  two  methods  be  adopted, 
the  whole  of  the  plants  must  be  lifted  in  the  first  week  of  March, 
and  be  planted  out  in  beds  of  light  rich  earth  in  frames  facing  the 
south,  where  they  wall  make  rapid  progress  if  taken  care  of.     The 
latter   part  of   the  month  of  April   is   the    proper    time    to  plant 
calceolarias  ;  if  the  planting  is  deferred  the  plants  are  endangered. 
The  beds  for  calceolarias  should  be  prepared  by  deep  digging  and 
liberal  manuring  with  rotten  hotbed  manure  and  leaf-mould  ;  and  if 
there  is  no  leaf-mould  at  command,  use  an  additional  dressing  of  the 
hotbed  manure  in  place  of  it.     If  planted  in  poor  ill-dressed   soil, 
the  plants  are  endangered  ;  in  fact,  the  principal  reason  of  the  failure 
of  the  calceolaria  in  a  hot  dry  season  is  defective  root-hold,  the 
result  of  planting  late  in  poor  soil,  the  plants  having  been  already 
nearly  starved  to  death  in  pots    as  a  preparation  for  their   final 
extinction.     In  the  operation  of  planting,  the  plants  should  always 
be  put  into  the  ground  as  deep  as  possible,   but  of  course  without 
burying  the  branching  portion  of  the  stem.     Deep  planting  encou- 
rages the  formation  of  a  fresh  set  of  roots,  and  places  the  roots 


THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND   GARDEN   GUIDE.  177 

already  formed  at  the  greatest  possible  distance  from  the  surface, 
where  they  are  comparatively  safe  against  the  exhaustive  action  of  a 
hot  sun.  As  to  watering,  one  or  two  liberal  doses  may  be  given 
within  the  first  ten  days  after  planting,  but  it  is  far  better  to  give 
none  at  all  if  only  the  ground  is  moist  enough  to  carry  them  on 
safely  until  the  next  rains  occur.  A  considerable  quantity  of  bedding 
plants  are  killed  every  year  by  watering  them,  or  rather,  by  torment- 
ing them,  with  a  pretence  of  watering.  As  for  varieties,  there  are 
not  many  good  ones,  but  the  few  that  are  most  worthy  of  attention 
are  wondrously  brilliant  if  they  happen  to  behave  well.  Amplexicaulis 
is  the  tallest  in  growth,  the  flowers  are  palest  yellow.  Aurea  flori- 
bunda,  Canariensis,  Gaines's  Yellow,  and  Golden  Gem  have  deep 
yellow  flowers,  and  in  habit  are  dwarf  and  compact.  The  red  and 
brown  varieties  are  simply  useless.  S.  H. 


SUBTROPICAL    GARDENING. 

BY    A   LADY'S    GAEDEKEPw 

SUBTROPICAL  gardening  is,  for  the  most  part,  pursued 
under  difficulties,  for  few  of  us  have  as  yet  sufficiently 
studied  the  habits  and  requirements  of  the  plants  em- 
ployed under  the  conditions  in  which  we  so  unmercifully 
place  them  when  wre  plant  them.  Nor,  indeed,  do  we 
make  a  good  use  of  facts  previously  gleaned.  Look,  for  instance,  at 
the  extensive  use  we  make  of  such  plants  as  the  different  varieties 
of  Coleus  and  Achyranthus  ;  yet  at  bedding-out  time  we  seem  almost 
to  forget  that  these  are  plants  which  must  be  tenderly  nursed  in  the 
winter  in  stove-heat.  Now,  if  they  require  such  care  in  our  long 
dark  winters,  how  can  we  expect  them  to  thrive  through  the  summer, 
with  our  commonplace  preparations  out  of  doors  r1  Tet  too  many  of 
us  do  expect  it,  as  is  evidenced  by  the  number  of  plants  we  prepare 
and  rejoice  over.  From  my  own  observations  respecting  these  plants, 
I  am  sure  they  require  more  earth-heat  than  they  get  from  our 
ordinary  prepared  flower-beds,  and  the  careful  observer  can  satisfy 
himself  of  this  if  he  will  call  to  mind  how  much  better  these  plants 
thrive  towards  the  close  of  summer,  when  the  earth  attains  its 
greatest  degree  of  heat,  than  they  do  in  the  first  months  of  the 
bedding  season.  This,  then,  satisfies  me,  that  if  by  any  means  we 
can  assist  them  to  secure  more  warmth  than  the  soil  affords  at  an 
earlier  period  of  the  summer,  the  better  result  will  be  obtained  in 
the  use  of  these  plants.  For  this  purpose,  the  adoption  of  flower- 
beds prepared  by  special  drainage  is  the  simplest  and  most  economical 
method  ;  and  the  drainage  should  consist  of  such  materials  as  are 
known  to  absorb  and  conduct  heat, — on  something  like  the  plan 
followed,  with  well-known  success,  by  Mr.  Gibson,  at  Battersea 
Park.  But  to  be  more  precise,  all  the  soil  should  be  taken  out  of 
the  bed  two  feet  deep ;  or  if  a  line  of  the  plants  is  wanted,  a  trench 
a  foot  wide  would  serve  the  same  purpose.  Into  this  trench  or  bedj 
VOL.  VI. — NO.  VI.  12 


178  THE   FLORAL   WORLD    AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 

whichever  it  may  be,  place  a  thickness  of  twelve  inches  of  brick- 
heads  or  large  stones,  as  these  are  the  best  conductors  of  heat,  aud 
then  fill  up  with  rich,  fine,  open  soil.  The  brick-heads  or  stones 
will  not  only  afford  a  ready  means  of  escape  for  all  unappropriated 
water,  and  thus  render  the  ground  drier  and  warmer,  but  will  con- 
tribute a  degree  of  warmth  to  the  soil  above  by  conduction  from  the 
surrounding  earth.  Some  might  suppose  that  this  drainage  beneath 
would  necessitate  watering  in  dry  weather ;  but,  from  my  own 
experience  on  a  small  scale  last  year,  I  did  not  find  it  so.  But  I 
found  out  another  plan  which  is  better  than  watering,  and  that  is, 
frequent  top-dressings  of  rich  compost.  "We  all  know  the  roots  of 
these  plants  are  near  the  surface,  which  is  another  proof  that  they 
delight  to  ramify  in  the  warmest  soil.  Now,  to  encourage  these 
roots  to  the  warm  soil  of  the  surface,  and  to  keep  them  constantly 
supplied  with  rich  surface-dressings,  should  be  the  constant  aim  of 
the  gardener.  I  am  satisfied  that  by  this  course  of  procedure,  in 
favourable  seasons  and  positions,  we  should  have  these  plants  in 
their  beauty  much  earlier  in  the  year  than  we  now  generally  see 
them. 

I  do  not  think  the  Amaranthus  melancholicus  would  be  benefited 
by  the  plan  above  recommended,  as  it  is  in  some  positions  a  very 
unsatisfactory  subject  to  deal  with.  The  best  way  to  do  it  well  is  to 
obtain  good  plants  in  single  pots,  and  not  put  them  out  until  the 
first  week  in  June.  When  they  are  well  established,  follow  up  the 
plan  of  surface-dressing  as  just  recommended,  and  give  repeated 
doses  of  weak  manure-water  to  the  weakest  plants,  leaving  the 
stronger-growing  ones  to  take  care  of  themselves.  By  following 
this  plan,  I  have  frequently  had  some  magnificent  lines  in  our  ribbon- 
borders. 

I  have  succeeded  to  a  fair  degree  with  the  Altern anther as  on  a 
warm  south  border,  in  a  rich  fine  soil  specially  prepared,  but  I  do 
not  recommend  them  to  those  who  cannot  afford  time  and  patience 
in  their  cultivation.  The  only  way  I  have  found  them  to  answer 
ray  expectations  was  to  get  large  well-established  plants  in  32-sized 
pots,  and  plunge  them  in  their  pots,  about  midsummer,  in  the  open 
border  for  an  edging. 

All  the  Golden-leaved  Pelargoniums,  or  Geraniums,  are  delicate 
plants,  and  the  best  amongst  them  all  is  Golden  Chain.  They  all 
like  a  rich  open  soil,  but  a  cold  soil  and  stagnant  water  about  them 
is  their  ruin  in  many  gardens. 

The  Japanese  Maize  is  an  elegant  and  useful  variegated  plant, 
either  for  centres  of  beds  or  to  be  associated  with  subtropical  plants  ; 
or,  indeed,  it  is  a  nice  feature  in  the  mixed  border,  as  its  habit  is 
graceful  as  well  as  refined. 

The  Ricinus,  or  <{  Castor-oil  plant,"  is  one  of  those  subjects  very 
imperfectly  done  in  the  majority  of  cases.  People  with  limited  con- 
venience sow  this  plant  generally  in  the  beginning  of  March,  when 
the  middle  of  April  is  soon  enough,  where  there  is  not  much  room 
to  grow  it.  To  have  it  in  perfection,  the  plant  must  be  kept  always 
growing  from  the  time  the  first  seed-leaves  show  themselves  ;  for  if 
once  they  are  allowed  to  get  starved  for  the  want  of  root-room  in 


THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE.  1^9 

the  pots,  the  bottom  leaves  turn  yellow  and  very  soon  fall  off,  and 
the  beauty  of  the  plant  is  lost.  This  plant  ought  to  be  put  out  with 
every  leaf  entire,  and  as  fresh  and  bright  as  the  young  growth  at 
top.  It  may  be  kept  through  the  winter  in  a  house  where  the 
temperature  does  not  go  below  503,  and  such  plants,  although  some- 
what long-legged,  make  grand  features  for  centres  or  backgrounds 
the  next  season. 

Caladium  esculentum  is  another  noble  and  telling  object  for  any 
purpose  where  fine-foliage  plants  are  admissible.  It  requires  liberal 
treatment  in  the  way  of  plenty  of  pot-room  and  rich  soil  for  three 
months  previous  to  its  being  planted  out,  and  then  it  well  repays 
for  the  trouble.  It  will  succeed  admirably  in  warm  sheltered  places 
out  of  doors,  but  requires  plenty  of  water  and  frequent  syringing 
overhead. 

A  common  mistake,  made  by  many  of  us,  is  putting  out  these 
tender  subjects  too  early.  On  the  first  outburst  of  summer  weather 
in  May,  the  "bedding  mania"  takes  hold  of  us,  and  we  commence 
operations  in  earnest,  seemingly  regardless  of  the  consequences  of  a 
change  of  weather.  The  present  season  is  no  exception,  yet  I  will 
undertake  to  say  there  are  thousands  of  these  tender  subjects  out, 
exposed  not  only  to  cold  nights,  but  cold  days  ;  and  then  we  wonder 
why  they  don't  thrive.  Let  those  who  have  erred  this  year  take  my 
advice  for  the  future  and  grow  the  plants  larger,  and  wait  until  the 
first  week  in  June  next  year,  and  I  can  promise  them  they  will  have 
no  cause  to  regret  having  done  so. 


THE  GE11MAN  BEEHIVE. 

BY    SIR   THOMAS    TANCRED,    BAKT. 


[jN  the  course  of  an  interesting  and  most  valuable  paper  on 
"  Bee- Culture,"  read  at  the  Inventors'  Institute,  Sir 
Thomas  Tancred,  Bart.,  gave  the  following  account  of 
the  "Improved  German  Hive." 

In  order  to  obtain  the  testimony  of  a  disinterested 
writer  as  to  the  essentials  of  a  good  hive,  I  will  cite,  not  a  German, 
but  a  French  author.  I  find  these  essentials  well  summed  up  by  the 
latest  Erench  writer  on  this  subject  with  which  I  am  acquainted,  the 
Abbe  Sagot,  in  his  Culture  des  Aheilles  ; — 

"  Every  hive  which  does  not  allow  artificial  swarms  to  be  easily 
made  without  stupefying  the  bees,  and  the  honey  to  be  taken  with- 
out disturbing  them  or  destroying  the  brood,  and  the  provisions 
necessary  for  it,  is  defective,  and  will  soon  discourage  a  bee-keeper, 
instead  of  inducing  others  to  imitate  him.  The  best  hive,  therefore, 
is  one  which,  whilst  agreeable  to  the  nature  of  the  bees,  at  the  same 
time  allows  their  possessor  to  execute  with  ease  all  the  operations 
belonging  to  apiculture — such  as  a  complete  inspection  of  the  combs 
at  the  opening  of  spring,  prompt  and  plentiful  feeding  when  necessary, 
propagation  by  artificial  swarms  on  any  day  required  at  the  will  of 


180 


THE   FLORAL    WOULD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 


the  manager,  without  having  to  mount  guard  over  the  hives  for 
weeks,  and  to  race  across  country  in  pursuit  of  natural  swarms  ; 
easy  extraction  of  the  purest  honey  as  often  as  it  may  be  suitable, 
without  deranging  the  bees  in  their  work,  and  without  destroying  a, 
single  particle  of  the  brood,  or  of  the  provisions  ^stored  up  for  it ; 
means  of  emptying  the  combs  so  as  to  replace  them  to  be  refilled  by 
the  bees  without  their  being  called  upon  to  waste  the  best  honey 
season  in  providing  new  ones  ;  lastly,  instantaneous  reunion  of  bees 
in  October  without  stupefying  or  drumming  them  out,  and  without 
any  fighting.     Such  are  the  advantages   in  general  little  known, 

very  little  practised, 
and  often  impractic- 
able in  many  sorts  of 
hives,  yet  most  neces- 
sary to  make  apicul- 
ture an  agreeable  and 
useful  occupation." 

These  requisites 
werenever  really  com- 
bined in  any  single 
hive,  though  some  of 
them  might  be  more 
or  les3  imperfectly 
attained,  till'Dzierzon 
brought  out  his  ex- 
ceedingly clever  idea 
of  making  each  comb 
movable,  so  that  every 
comb  could  be  taken 
outandexamined  sepa- 
rately ;  and  not  only 
so,  but  all  the  hives 
in  the  apiary  being 
exactly  of  one  diame- 
ter, no  matter  how 
different  in  other  re- 
spects, any  comb  in 
any  one  can  be  inter- 
changed with  any 
Fig  1.  Brood  Hive.  A,  Lighting-board.  B,  False  comb  in  any  other, 
bottom.  C,  Stopper  inserted  beneath  false  bottom.  In  this  way  through- 
D,  Double  ties  of  sliding  frames.  E,  Cover  sur-  cut  Germany  thehives 
mounting  the  honey-box.  macIe     on    [Dzierzon's 

principle,  whether  of  straw,  wood,  or  other  materials,  and,  however 
different  in  internal  capacity,  are  on  a  uniform  gauge  of  9f  English 
inches.  In  addition  to  securing  all  the  requisites  above  stated,  this 
improved  German  Hive  admits  of  contracting  or  expanding  the 
space  occupied,  by  pushing  forwards  or  drawing  back  a  sliding  glazed 
sash  at  each  end,  as  I  will  presently  show  you. 

Now,  asking  you  to  keep  in  mind  the  requirements  enumerated 
by  the  French  apiculturist,  I  will  give  an  explanation  of  the  pecu- 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 


181 


liarities  of  the  hives  before  you  (see  Fig.  1).  You  will  observe  that 
the  hives  are  distinguished  by  a  letter,  a  number,  or  a  name,  which 
should  be  entered  in  a  note-book,  which  can  be  easily  carried  in  the 
pocket,  in  order  that  notes  may  be  made  on  the  spot  when  any  hive 
is  examined,  so  that  important  particulars  about  each  may  readily  be 
referred  to  without  any  mistake.  These  letters,  numbers,  or  names 
being  written  in  capitals  and  Roman  numerals  at  one  end,  and  on  all 
the  parts  belonging  to  that  end,  and  in  small  letters  or  Arabic 
numerals  at  another  end,  the  parts  so  marked  can  readily  be  replaced, 
so  as  to  fit  whenever 
the  hive  is  opened.  The 
weight  also  of  the  empty 
hive  should  be  inscribed 
upon  each,  so  as  to  be 
able  readily  to  ascertain 
any  increase  or  diminu- 
tion of  the  variable  con- 
tents. You  observe  I 
take  my  keys  from  my 
pocket,  which  may  also 
have  the  distinguishing 
mark  of  each  hive  upon 
them,  and  open  the  outer 
doors  (see  Fig.  3).  No 
hinges  are  employed,  as 
they  are  apt  to  crush 
bees,  though,  if  pre- 
ferred, they  might  be 
fitted  to  the  bottoms  of 
the  outer  doors,  but  the 
plan  adopted  is  more 
simple. 

Within  the  outer 
wooden  doors  cushions 
of  tow,  wool,  waddiug, 
etc.,  are  kept  against  the 
glass  of  the  inner  sashes 
to  make  them  warmer. 

These  inner  sashes  VOU  Flg.  2.  Sliding  glazed  sash,  a  a  a  a,  Recesses  cor- 
Will  observe,  slide  to  and  rfP°«*ng  ^  fillet  in  hive,  b,  Aperture  for  insertion 
j.  n-.,    ,  of  a  smoker  for  quieting  bees,     c  .stopper  lor  closing 

fro  on  fillets  or  runners,     the  aperture<    £I(J.  3.  Door  of  hive.    FlGi  4.  Move- 
so  as   to  enable  me  to     able  frame, 
expand  or  contract  the 

interior  capacity  of  the  hive  at  will.  In  winter,  a  comparatively  few 
combs  partly  filled  with  honey  are  required  by  the  bees,  and  the 
empty  ones  being  removed  and  stored  up  safely,  the  sliding  sashes 
may  be  moved  towards  the  centre,  and  pasted  over  with  paper,  the 
space  between  them  and  the  outer  doors  being  filled  with  tow,  dry 
moss,  hay,  etc.,  so  as  to  keep  the  hive  entirely  free  from  draughts. 
The  combs  are  to  be  worked  in  these  sliding  frames  (see  Fig.  4),  as 
you  see  by  the  one  partly  filled  with  honey.     In  order  to  induce  the 


182  THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 

bees  to  work  their  combs  straight  and  parallel  within  the  frames, 
a  strip  of  guide  comb  is  fastened  along  the  under  side  of  the  top 
bar  of  each  frame,  by  means  of  a  mixture  of  bees-wax  and  resin 
melted  in  an  iron  spoon  over  a  candle  or  lamp,  as  you  see.  Each 
frame  is  made  to  hang  at  a  defined  distance  from  centre  to  centre, 
so  as  to  admit  of  a  passage  for  the  bees  between  every  two  con- 
tiguous combs  when  arrived  at  their  proper  thickness,  the  width  of 
the  widest  part  of  the  frame  being  li  inches.  This  is  important  in 
the  under  or  brood  box,  but  in  the  upper  or  honey  box  the  interval 
may  be  greater,  as  the  bees  will  prolong  the  cells  and  make  the 
combs  of  greater  thickness  when  intended  only  for  storing  honey 
than  they  could  if  intended  for  rearing  brood. 

There  are  twenty-four  combs  in  the  hive  when  expanded  to 
its  greatest  capacity,  and  as  each  frame  contains  a  superficies  of 
9  in.  x  8  =  72  square  inches,  the  whole  of  the  combs  in  the  brood- 
box  occupy  a  superficial  space  on  each  side  of  1728  square  inches. 
When  this  space,  or  nearly  as  much,  has  been  well  built  up  and  filled 
with  combs  and  bees,  the  stopper  at  the  top  being  taken  out,  an 
entrance  is  opened  through  a  wooden  grating  to  the  honey-box 
placed  above  it,  by  which  it  is  expected  that  the  dame  or  mother-bee 
will  be  prevented  from  entering  this  box,  so  that  only  virgin  honey 
will  be  stored  in  it.. 

Following  the  example  of  the  German  model,  I  at  first  made  the 
honey-box  with  outer  wooden  and  internal  glazed  sashes,  etc.,  just 
like  the  stock  or  brood  hive  ;  but,  in  considering  the  subject,  I  found 
that  I  was  going  to  a  needless  cost  in  this  respect,  and  1  now  make 
them  much  more  simple  and  inexpensive,  as  in  the  one  I  now 
exhibit. 

The  false  bottom  of  the  lower  box  being  formed  of  separate  thin 
boards,  can  be  easily  taken  out,  either  for  the  purpose  of  cleaning- 
out  the  dead  bees  and  other  refuse  in  spring,  or  for  introducing  a 
shallow  feeder  at  that  season,  whilst  the  stops  at  each  end  keep  any 
bees  from  escaping  below  the  glazed  sashes. 

The  lighting-board  is  made  to  take  off,  in  order  not  to  be  incon- 
venient in  travelling ;  and  if  the  hive  be  moved  when  peopled  with 
bees,  by  fixing  a  piece  of  pierced  zinc  in  front  of  the  entrance,  as 
well  as  over  the  opening  on  the  opposite  side,  a  thorough  draught 
can  be  established  to  keep  the  hive  cool  on  a  journey. 

I  have  thus  explained  the  construction  of  the  improved  German 
hive,  and  I  have  here  some  varieties  of  structure  adapted  for  par- 
ticular purposes  and  operations,  which  will  be  explained  below.  I 
believe  that  the  more  practically  acquainted  any  one  is  with  bee 
management,  the  more  he  will  appreciate  the  complete  control  over 
a  stock  of  bees  afforded  by  these  hives.  To  pretend  to  describe  all 
the  ways  of  using  them  in  detail  would  evidently  be  impossible 
within  the  compass  of  a  lecture  ;  to  do  so  would  be  to  give  a  com- 
plete treatise  on  practical  bee-keeping.  I  can  only  assert  that  there 
is  no  operation  possible  with  bees  which  cannot  be  performed  with 
these  hives,  and  I  believe  more  easily  than  with  any  other  yet 
invented. 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND   GARDEN   GUIDE.  183 


THE  GARDEN  GUIDE  FOE  JUNE. 

Elowee  Garden. — If  not  already  done,  old  stools  of  such  things 
as  produce  a  multiplicity  of  flower-spikes,  like  the  Phlox,  should  be 
looked  over,  and  the  weakest  of  the  flowering  shoots  thinned  out. 
Stake  those  left,  and  also  flowering-spikes  of  Delphiniums,  Lilies, 
etc.,  to  prevent  the  wind  snapping  them  off.  Pansies  that  have 
done  flowering  should  be  cut  back,  and  cuttings  made  of  the  young 
side-shoots  as  they  push.  The  superfluous  shoots  should  be  removed 
from  briers  intended  for  budding,  and  the  remaining  ones  shortened 
back,  if  they  are  growing  too  vigorously.  This  should  be  done  a 
fortnight  previously  to  the  buddiug  being  performed,  so  that  there 
shall  be  no  check  to  the  flow  of  sap  at  that  time.  Seed  of  annuals 
for  autumn  flowering  should  be  sown  soon ;  this  is  also  a  good  time 
for  sowing  seed  of  herbaceous  perennials  for  flowering  next  year. 
"When  left  until  the  autumn,  the  plants  are  seldom  strong  enough  to 
flower  well  the  following  year. 

Kitchen  Garden. — Endive  and  lettuce  ought  to  be  sown  where 
they  are  to  remain  at  this  season.  There  need  be  no  waste  of  seed, 
as  it  can  be  sown  very  thinly.  Plant  out  cabbage,  and  cauliflower 
for  the  autumn,  and  Brussels  sprouts,  borecole,  broccoli,  and  savoys 
for  the  winter.  Choose  a  dull,  moist  day,  if  possible,  for  all  planting 
operations.  The  ground  should  be  got  in  readiness  for  planting  as 
fast  as  it  becomes  vacant,  so  that  there  may  be  no  unnecessary  delay 
when  we  are  favoured  with  showery  weather.  Plant  out  the  early 
crop  of  celery,  and  shade  with  a  few  branches  of  evergreen  until  the 
plants  are  established,  and  keep  well  supplied  with  water.  Sow  at 
the  end  of  the  month  a  few  rows  of  any  good  second  early  marrow 
peas  for  late  autumn  supply. 

Ertjit  Garden. — Let  the  work  of  thinning  the  young  shoots  pro- 
gress steadily,  and  leave  no  more  wood  than  is  really  wanted  for 
bearing  next  year,  and  filling  up  vacancies  that  are  likely  to  occur. 
Pinch  cherries,  plums  and  pears  back  to  the  third  or  fourth  leaf,  to 
encourage  the  production  of  spurs.  Pyramids,  espaliers,  and  cor- 
dons should  have  just  as  much  attention  as  wall-trees;  thin  out  the 
shoots  where  the  trees  are  likely  to  be  crowded  with  too  much  wood, 
and  stop  the  other  shoots  back  to  the  same  distance  as  recommended 
above,  llemove  all  runners  from  the  strawberry-beds,  unless  they 
are  required  for  layering. 

Conservatory. — The  whole  of  the  hard-wooded  plants  ought  to 
be  removed  into  the  open  air  some  time  this  month,  according  to 
the  state  of  the  young  growth.  The  utmost  caution  is  necessary, 
just  now,  to  see  that  the  plants  have  sufficient  water  at  the  roots, 
but  without  having  too  much.  The  specimens  must  be  looked  over 
regularly,  rain  or  no  rain.  It  is  a  mistake  to  suppose  that  a  shower 
of  rain  is  sufficient  for  plants  in  pots.  Pelargoniums  are  now  fast 
going  out  of  flower ;  they  should  be  removed  to  the  open  air  to 
mature  the  young  wood,  and  then  be  cut  back  to  two  or  three  eyes 
each.     Euehsias  may  have  liberal  supplies  of  manure-water  to  help 


184  THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 

them  on  as  the  pots  get  full  of  roots.  Pot  off  cuttings  just  struck, 
and  shift  on  young  stuff,  so  that  no  check  may  be  experienced  by 
them  at  this  stage. 

Stove. — The  plants  in  this  structure  must  have  a  good  syringing 
overhead  at  least  once  a  day  in  bright  weather,  and  not  be  allowed 
to  suffer  for  the  want  of  water  at  the  roots.  A  few  cans  of  water 
should  be  poured  on  the  paths  several  times  during  the  day.  Any 
of  the  stove-plants  that  are  to  go  into  the  conservatory  when  in 
bloom  should  be  removed  to  the  coolest  end,  or  go  into  an  interme- 
diate house  a  week  previous.  Stove-plants  should  have  the  warmest 
position  the  conservatory  affords,  and  be  guarded  from  draughts. 

.Forcing. — The  bottom-heat  in  which  the  pines  are  plunged  must 
not  be  allowed  to  decline  now — more  especially  in  the  fruiting- 
house.  Shift  into  larger  pots  suckers  and  succession  plants  that  are 
getting  pot-bound.  Vines  in  all  stages  to  have  abundant  ventilation 
early  in  the  day.  The  borders  must  be  kept  well  supplied  with  water, 
except  where  the  grapes  are  just  colouring.  Peaches  and  nectarines 
must  be  well  aired  directly  the  crop  begins  to  ripen,  and  the  lights 
taken  off,  where  practicable,  soon  after  it  is  gathered  ;  or,  failing  the 
ability  to  do  that,  the  ventilators  must  be  opened  as  wide  as  possible, 
and  the  trees  regularly  syringed.  Plenty  of  moisture  at  the  roots 
will  also  be  necessary,  to  enable  them  to  swell  up  the  buds  for  next 
year.  Pigs  must  be  kept  rather  cool  and  dry  whilst  the  first  crop  is 
ripening,  and  then,  when  the  bulk  is  gathered,  they  can  be  kept  moist 
and  close  to  push  on  the  second  lot. 


HORTICULTURAL  NOTES. 


J|HE  month  of  May  has  been  characterized  by  the  prevalence 
of  cold  north-easterly  winds,  which,  as  is  so  well 
known,  are  by  no  means  favourable  to  the  rapid  pro- 
gress of  early-sown  crops,  and  many  things  are  late 
in  consequence.  So  much  damage  has  not,  however, 
been  done  to  the  fruit  crops  as  was  anticipated  at  one  time,  and 
from  all  parts  of  the  country  we  hear  most  favourable  accounts  of 
the  fruit  prospects  for  the  ensuing  season.  The  crop  of  peaches  and 
nectarines  is  rather  thin  in  comparison  with  that  of  last  year,  for 
the  sharp  frosts,  with  which  the  trees  were  visited  when  in  bloom, 
destroyed  a  considerable  proportion  of  the  flowers  ;  but  owing  to  the 
weather  being  very  dry  at  the  time,  the  frosts  did  not  do  so  much 
damage  as  was  expected  at  the  time.  Apples,  pears,  cherries,  plums, 
and  apricots  are  tolerably  plentiful,  a  few  of  the  flowers  on  the 
outside  of  the  trees  only  having  been  injured,  and  we  may  once 
more  reasonably  expect  an  abundant  fruit  harvest. 

The  exhibitions  during  May  have  been  so  numerous  that  to  do 
more  than  direct  attention  to  a  few  of  the  most  important  of  recent 
introductions  is  impossible.  The  two  exhibitions  held  by  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Society,  on  the  3rd  and  17th  respectively,  were  re- 
markably poor,  although  it  would  not  be  just  to  pronounce  them 


THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND   GARDEN   GUIDE.  185 

failures.  The  exhibition  on  the  20th,  at  the  Crystal  Palace  was, 
like  the  great  summer  exhibitions  held  in  former  years,  a  grand 
affair,  as  the  leading  stove  and  greenhouse  plants,  such  as  Azaleas, 
Aphelexis,  Ixoras,  Pimelias,  and  Heaths,  were  exhibited  in  grand 
condition.  The  exhibition  of  the  Royal  Botanic  Society,  Regent's 
Park,  on  the  25th  and  26th,  was  also  good ;  but  the  best  and  most 
magnificent  exhibition  held  during  the  present  season  is  that  in  the 
gardens  of  the  Manchester  Horticultural  and  Botanical  Society  at 
Old  Trafford,  which  commenced  on  the  26th  ult.  and  will  be  con- 
tinued until  the  2nd  inst.  A  fair  idea  may  be  had  of  its  extent, 
when  it  is  said  that  about  £1,000  was  offered  in  prizes,  and  that 
nearly  the  whole  of  the  classes  are  well  filled. 

At  the  first  exhibition  held  by  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society 
during  the  month,  the  specialities  were  Auriculas,  herbaceous  Cal- 
ceolarias, and  Pot  Roses.  The  Auriculas  were  not  shown  largely, 
but  they  were  contributed  in  grand  condition  by  Mr.  Turner,  of 
Slough,  and  Mr.  James,  gardener  to  "W.  P.  Watson,  Esq.,  Redlees, 
Isleworth,  who  respectively  occupied  the  first  places  in  the  classes 
open  to  the  trade  and  private  growers.  Mr.  James  was  also  first  in 
the  class  for  six  herbaceous  Calceolarias,  with  medium-sized,  but 
beautifully  grown  specimens.  Messrs.  Dobson  and  Son,  Isleworth, 
also  staged  a  good  collection  of  these  showy  flowers,  which,  although 
hardly  so  good  as  those  shown  by  Mr.  James,  presented  a  most 
striking  contrast  to  those  staged,  in  competition  for  the  prizes,  by 
several  other  exhibitors.  Pot  Roses  were  simply  grand,  and  all  the 
leading  growers  of  this  lovely  flower  came  out  in  strong  force.  The 
very  best  collection  of  large  specimens  was  that  from  the  nurseries 
of  Messrs.  Paul  and  Son,  of  Cheshunt,  and  consisted  of  Anna 
Alexieff,  Celine  Forrestier,  Marie  Baumann,  Charles  Lawson,  Victor 
Verdier,  Madame  Willermoz,  Marechal  Vaillant,  and  Souvenir  d'un 
Ami,  all  of  which  are  most  valuable  for  pot-culture.  The  greatest 
interest  was  attached  to  the  competition  in  the  class  for  twelve 
plants,  grown  in  pots  not  exceeding  ten  inches  in  diameter,  because 
the  limit  to  the  size  of  the  pot  enabled  the  exhibitors  to  stage  several 
of  the  newer  kinds.  Messrs.  Paul  and  Son  were  also  first  in  this 
class,  as  they  well  deserved  to  be,  for  the  plants  were  in  the  most 
robust  health,  and  superbly  flowered.  The  varieties  of  which  the 
collection  consisted  were  Edward  Morren,  Comtesse  d' Oxford,  Reine 
d'Or,  Jules  Chretien,  Duke  of  Edinburgh,  Julie  Touvais,  Madame 
Eugene  Verdier,  Dupuy  Jamain,  Marquise  de  Castellane,  Paul 
Neron,  and  Lord  Eldon.  The  last-mentioned  is  a  new  tea  variety, 
with  large,  globular,  and  full  flowers  of  a  clear  salmon  colour  in  the 
way  of  the  well-known  and  justly-popular  Gloire  de  Dijon.  This 
was  awarded  a  first-class  certificate,  as  also  was  Princess  Beatrice,  a 
new  perpetual  hybrid,  with  large  globular  flowers  of  a  rosy  carmine 
hue,  exhibited  by  Mr.  W.  Paul,  Waltham  Cross. 

Of  the  miscellaneous  new  plants  at  the  same  exhibition,  Primula 
japonica,  exhibited  by  Mr.  Bull,  King's  Road,  Chelsea,  attracted  the 
most  attention.  This  magnificent  species  has  stout  robust  foliage 
very  similar  to  that  of  the  cowslip,  and  the  flowers  are  produced  in 
whorls,  one  above  the  other,  on  stout  and  rather  tall  scapes,  each 


186      THE  FLORAL  "WORLD  AND  GARDEN  GUIDE. 

scape  having  from  three  to  six  whorls.  In  shape  the  flowers  are 
very  similar  to  those  of  one  of  the  best  herbaceous  Phloxes,  and  are 
of  a  rich  rosy  crimson  hue,  with  deep  or  coloured  eye.  A  light 
variety,  P.  japonica  lilacina,  with  lilac  flowers,  having  a  rosy  crimson 
eye,  was  also  exhibited,  and  formed  a  beautiful  contrast  with  the 
dark  flowers  of  the  species.  Both  were  introduced  by  Mr.  B. 
Fortune,  from  Japan,  and  if  they  are  quite  hardy,  as  they  are  said 
to  be,  they  will  certainly  be  most  valuable  acquisitions  to  our  list  of 
border  flowers.  Gloxinia  Rev.  H.  H.  Dombrain,  a  drooping  variety, 
with  large  flowers  of  the  most  perfect  form,  and  of  a  lively  carmine 
hue,  exhibited  by  Messrs.  Follisson  and  Sons,  Tooting,  was  first- 
rate.  Tropseolum  Mrs.  Bowman,  exhibited  by  Messrs.  Downie,  Laird, 
and  Laing,  Forest  Hill,  S.E.,  promises  to  eclipse  all  the  other  scarlet 
flowered  varieties  for  cultivation  in  pots  for  winter  decoration,  and 
it  also  has  the  appearance  of  being  a  valuable  bedder.  It  is  very 
neat  in  growth,  and  the  flowers,  which  are  of  a  most  brilliant  scarlet 
and  of  the  most  perfect  form,  are  produced  very  freely,  indeed,  the 
plants  exhibited  were  quite  solid  with  bloom.  The  same  firm  sent 
with  the  above,  Iberis  Gibraltarica,  a  beautiful  perennial  candytuft, 
with  very  large  flowers  of  a  pale  flesh  colour ;  this  is  now  rather 
plentiful  in  the  trade  and  can  be  highly  recommended  as  one  of  the 
best  plants  of  its  class  for  flowering  in  spring.  Messrs.  Yeitch  and 
Sons,  Chelsea,  exhibited  Croton  Johannis,  a  very  elegant  grower  with 
narrow,  richly  variegated  leaves  ;  Mr.  B.  S.  Williams,  Upper  Hol- 
loway,  Amaryllis  maryinata  perfecta,  an  exquisitely  beautiful  variety 
with  large  scarlet  flowers  of  the  most  splendid  form,  and  beautifully 
feathered  with  white,  and  an  unnamed  Solralia,  with  rosy  lilac 
flowers  of  a  colossal  size  ;  and  Mr.  C.  Turner,  Auricula,  Headly's 
Alderman  Wisbey,  a  grey-edged  variety,  with  smooth  and  circular 
flowers,  having  a  rich  brownish  maroon  ground.  The  whole  of  the 
above  were  awarded  first-class  certificates. 

The  second  exhibition  of  the  Society  was  held  in  a  large  tent  at 
the  southern  part  of  the  garden,  and  it  was  certainly  a  most  agree- 
able relief  to  get  away  from  the  arcades  and  conservatory,  in  which 
the  exhibitions  have  during  the  last  few  years  been  held.  The  chief 
features  were  the  show  and  fancy  Pelargoniums  and  Cape  Heaths. 
Miscellaneous  groups  of  stove  and  greenhouse  flowering  and  orna- 
mental-leaved plants  were  staged,  but  owing  to  plants  in  twelve-inch 
pots  only  being  allowed  to  be  shown,  the  effect  produced  was  tame  and 
ineffective.  The  Pelargoniums  shown  by  Mr.  Ward,  gardener  to  F.  Gr. 
Wilkins,  Esq.,  Leyton  ;  Mr.  James ;  Mr.  Weir,  Hampstead  ;  and 
Messrs.  Dobson  and  Sou,  were  really  magnificent,  the  plants  being 
large  in  size,  well  flowered,  and  exceedingly  fresh.  The  best  of  the 
varieties  were  Conqueror,  Patroness,  Lilacina,  Alabama,  Rose  Celes- 
tial, Pericles,  Exhibitor,  Beacon,  Fair  Rosamond,  Maid  of  Honour, 
and  Fob  Foy,  all  of  which  are  exceedingly  good,  and  can  be  obtained 
at  ordinary  prices. 

The  best  Cape  Heaths  were  those  exhibited  by  Mr.  Ward, 
Messrs.  Jackson  and  Son,  Kingston  and  Son,  and  Mr.  Carr,  gardener 
to  P.  L.  Hinds,  Esq.,  Byfleet  Lodge.  As  a  guide  to  intending  pur- 
chasers it  is  worthy  of  mention  that  the  most  distinct  and  desirable 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE.  187 

sorts  in  the  several  collections  were  Elegans,  Cavendishi,  Depressa, 
Multiflora,  Florida,  Perspicua  nana,  Ventricosa,  Coccinea  Minor, 
Ventricosa  grandiflora,  Victoria,  Mntabilis,  Mirabilis,  and  Tricolo'r 
Wilsoni. 

The  principal  exhibitors  of  flowering  stove  and  greenhouse  plants 
were  Messrs.  Jackson  and  Son,  Mr.  Ward,  and  Mr.  Carr ;  and  of 
ornamental-leaved  plants — Mr.  Bull,  Mr.  "Williams,  aud  Messrs. 
Bell  and  Thorpe,  Stratford-on-Avon.  Mr.  Bull's  collection  consisted 
chiefly  of  Palms,  and  in  the  collection  from  Mr.  Williams  occurred 
fine  specimens  of  Sarracenia  JDrummondi  and  purpurea. 

In  the  miscellaneous  class  Messrs.  Bell  and  Thorpe  exhibited 
samples  of  their  new  plant  and  tree  labels,  which  there  can  be  no 
doubt  will  be  extensively  employed  for  all  out-door  purposes  when 
generally  known.  They  are  made  of  a  hard  white  metal,  which,  it  is 
said,  does  not  become  discoloured  for  an  indefinite  number  of  years, 
and  as  the  names  of  the  plants  are  cast  in  bold  relief  it  is  impossible 
for  them  to  become  obliterated.  They  are  manufactured  in  two 
shapes,  one  for  suspending  and  the  other  for  fixing  into  the  ground, 
and  each  form  is  made  in  different  sizes.  For  naming  rose  and  fruit 
trees  the  former  shape  will  be  most  valuable,  and  the  price  is  suffi- 
ciently low  to  place  them  within  the  reach  of  the  most  humble 
amateur.  Messrs.  Dick  Eadclyfte  and  Co.,  exhibited  a  ta-tefully 
constructed  fern  stand  and  aquarium  combined  ;  and  in  the  collection 
of  plants  from  Messrs.  E.  Gk  Henderson  and  Son,  St.  John's  Wood, 
occurred  several  specimens  of  the  lovely  Tlialictrum  adiantifolia, 
which  will  be  almost  as  valuable  for  bouquets  and  vases  as  the 
well-known  Maidenhair  fern,  to  which  it  bears  a  close  resemblance. 
It  is  moreover  quite  hardy  and  the  leaves  retain  their  freshness  for  a 
considerable  length  of  time  after  they  have  been  gathered. 

Amongst  the  new  plants  exhibited  were  Cattleya  Reineckiana, 
white  with  large  lip,  beautifully  painted  with  crimson  and  gold,  from 
Mr.  Denning,  gardener  to  Lord  Londesborough,  Tadcaster ;  Masde- 
vallia  Lindeni,  with  rosy  puce  flowers,  a  fine  companion  to  M.  Veitchi, 
M.  coccinea,  and  others  of  this  family,  from  M.  Linden,  of  Brussels ; 
Gollinsia  violacea,  a  lovely  Californian  annual,  with  blue  and  white 
flowers,  from  Mr.  Thompson,  Ipswich ;  Petunia  Princess  Louise,  a 
magnificent  double  variety,  with  rosy  purple  flowers,  margined  and 
blotched  with  white,  from  Mr.  Badmau,  Lee  Green ;  Mauve  Queen, 
Intermediate  stock,  distinct  and  good,  from  Mr.  Gr.  Smith,  Hornsey 
Road  ;  Eose  Paul  Neron,  a  grand  hybrid  perpetual,  with  large 
globular  flowers,  silver  zonal  Pelargoniums  Mrs.  Rousbi/  and  Baroness 
JBwrdett  Goutts,  and  Azalea  Gomtesse  de  Flandres,  from  Mr.  C. 
Turner;  and  Adiantum  asa/rifoliwm,  a  bold  and  distinct  species  in 
the  way  of  a  reniforme,  but  much  larger  in  every  way,  from  Mr. 
Williams.     All  the  above  were  awarded  first-class  certificates. 

The  only  new  fruit,  possessing  any  considerable  merit,  exhibited 
during  the  month,  was  the  Iloyal  Ascot  Frontignan  grape,  shown  at 
the  last  exhibition  at  Kensington,  by  Messrs.  Standish  and  Co., 
Eoyal  Nursery,  Ascot.  The  berries  are  of  medium  size,  and  as  the 
fruit  approaches  maturity  they  change  to  a  pale  amber.  The  flavour 
is  most  delicious    and  of  its  earliness  there  can  be  no  doubt  for 


188  THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 

Black  Hamburgks  grown  in  the  same  house  were  quite  green  at  the 
time  of  the  fruit  reaching  maturity.  It  will,  therefore,  in  all  pro- 
bability, be  a  valuable  grape  for  greenhouse  and  ground  vineries, 
and  was  awarded  a  first-class  certificate  by  the  fruit  committee. 

G.  G. 


NOTES  ON  NEW  BOOKS. 


The  Orchid  Grower's  Manual.  By  B.  S.  Williams,  Victoria 
Nursery,  Upper  Holloway. — Has  reached  a  fourth  edition,  and  is 
greatly  improved  in  the  text  and  freely  illustrated.  The  pictures, 
however,  are  of  no  account,  and  the  book  would  be  as  good  without 
them.  There  is  no  better  work  on  the  subject  of  orchid  cultivation  ; 
the  author  is  one  of  the  best  experienced  men  in  the  country,  and 
gives  the  whole  advantage  of  his  knowledge  to  the  reader  in  a  com- 
prehensive and  explicit  code  of  instruction. 

Wax-flower  Modelling  Made  Easy.  By  Annie  M.  Williams. — 
Supplies  a  much  felt  want  in  an  admirable  manner.  We  have  seen 
Miss  Williams's  work  and  have  looked  into  her  little  book,  and 
feel  equal  confidence  and  pleasure  in  recommending  those  who  are 
interested  in  the  subject  to  trust  her  for  their  guide. 

Handbook  of  Hardy  Herbaceous  and  Alpine  Plants.  By  William 
Sutherland  (Blackwood  and  Sons). — This  is  the  best  book  of  its 
class  hitherto  produced.  It  is  full  of  useful  information  on  an 
interesting,  valuable,  but  much  neglected  class  of  plants,  by  a  man 
who  thoroughly  understands  them.  The  author  superintended  the 
herbaceous  department  of  the  Royal  Botanic  Gardens,  Kew,  for 
several  years,  and  made  good  use  of  his  opportunities  to  institute 
comparisons  of  species  and  determine  many  of  the  perplexing 
questions  that  arise  in  connection  with  the  study  of  hardy  plants. 
About  a  thousand  species  and  varieties  are  described  in  the  work, 
and  any  one  of  them  may  be  readily  found  by  the  aid  of  the  copious 
index. 

Secular  Annotations  on  Scripture  Texts.  By  Eeancis  Jacox 
(Hodder  and  Stoughton). — A  quiet  book  of  essays  on  subjects 
presented  in  selected  texts  of  Scripture.  Rich  in  thought,  elegant 
in  expression,  sometimes  quaint  and  witty,  but  always  sedate  ;  these 
essays  will  be  found  agreeable  reading  on  wet  Sundays  and  at  odd 
times  when  something  short  and  fresh  is  wanted. 

Land  for  the  Million  to  Sent.  By  the  Rev.  H.  Moule 
(Macintosh). — This  is  a  small  pamphlet  addressed  chiefly  to  cot- 
tagers and  allotment  holders,  but  of  equal  importance  to  landowners 
as  to  them.  The  author  hopes  for  the  day  when  it  shall  be  illegal 
to  build  a  house  for  a  working-man  without  so  much  land  being 
attached  as  will  suffice  to  grow  for  the  family  all  that  can  reasonably 
be  expected  from  a  working-man's  garden.  We  share  the  hope,  and 
would  most  gladly  assist  if  it  were  possible,  to  secure  to  working 
men  opportunity  for  the  delightful  pastime  of  gardening,  both  for 
the  direct  benefits  it  would  confer  on  them  and  their  families,  and 
its  indirect  benefit  as  an  antidote  to  the  injurious  fascinations  of  the 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  189 

public-house.  Mr.  Moule,  the  author  of  this  admirable  essay,  is  the 
iuveutor  of  the  Earth  Closet,  and  one  of  the  most  active  of  philan- 
thropists. "Would  that  we  could  find  a  hundred  thousand  parsons 
of  the  like  spirit,  and  with  equal  perseverance  and  unselfishness  in 
labours  expressive  of  the  true  purport  of  Christianity. 

The  Food,  Use,  and  Beauty  of  British  Birds.  By  Groom  Napieb 
(Groombridge  and  Sons). — Mr.  Napier's  book  is  a  counterblast  to 
gun,  traps,  and  poison,  for  its  object  is  to  show  that  our  song-birds 
are  amongst  our  best  friends,  and  to  kill  them  is  to  open  the  door  to 
ten  thousand  insect  pests,  who  will  surely  rush  in  if  we  lose  our 
bird  protectors,  and  devour  all  our  garden  produce.  People  who 
are  in  earnest  about  the  preservation  of  birds,  should  buy  dozens, 
scores,  and  hundreds  of  this  work,  and  distribute  them  gratuitously. 
Mr.  Napier  tells  all  the  truth,  and  that  is  no  small  merit  of  a 
book  written  for  a  purpose. 


NEW  PLANTS. 


ELOPERONE  CILIATA  {Hot.  Mag.,  t.  5888).— A  pretty  acanthaceous 
stove  plant,  flowering  in  winter.  It  is  of  sub-shrubby  habit,  one  to 
two  feet  high.  The  leaves  are  ovate-lanceolate,  dark  green  ;  the  flowers 
axillary  and  terminal ;  the  corolla  violet,  with  a  white  palate.  If 
judged  by  the  figure,  a  good  companion  plant  to  Justicia  speciosa  for 
winter  flowers. 

Xiphion  junceum  {Bot.  Mag.,  t.  5890). — A  pretty  Algerian  iris,  with  orange- 
coloured  flowers.  The  genus  Xiphion  differs  from  Iris  in  having  coated  bulbs, 
whereas  Iris  has  creeping  root-stocks,  according  to  the  terms  of  Mr.  Baker's  mono- 
graph. This  plant  is  a  native  of  dry  hills  near  .Algiers,  also  of  Tangier  in  Morocco, 
and  of  Genoa  and  Sicily.  It  is  a  valuable  hardy  plant,  neat  in  growth,  and  ex- 
ceedingly showy  when  in  flower. 

Tillandsia  (Pityrophyi.ltjm)  ionantha  {Bot.  Mag.,  t.  5892). — A  charming 
little  Bromeliaceous  plant,  with  green  leaves  tipped  with  rose-colour,  and  rosy-purple 
flowers.  Dr.  Hooker  suggests  that  it  is  likely  to  prove  distinct  from  Planchon's 
T.  ionantha,  in  which  case  he  suggests  that  it  should  be  named  T.  scopas,  "in 
allusion  to  its  brush-like  habit." 

Pelargonium  Pink.  Queen  {Floral  Mag.,  t.  523). — This  splendid  nosegay 
pelargonium  is  quite  a  novelty,  and  promises  to  be  one  of  the  most  popular  varieties 
of  its  class  for  many  seasons  to  come.  In  habit  it  is  all  that  could  be  desired, 
robust  yet  neat  in  growth,  with  very  dark  circular  leaves,  and  producing  its  large 
trusses  of  flowers  most  abundantly.  Its  great  charm  is  the  colour  of  the  flowers,  a 
rich  deep  carmine-pink,  differing  in  tone  from  all  other  pink  varieties,  and  far 
exceeding  the  darkest  pinks  we  have  in  brilliancy  and  freedom  of  flowering.  This 
splendid  novelty  will  be  sent  out  by  Messrs.  Dowuie,  Laird,  and  Laing. 

Saxifraga  (aizoonia)  longiflora  {Bot.  Mag-,  t.  5889). — A  beautiful  hardy 
plant  in  the  way  of  S.  pyramidalis.  Dr.  Hooker  describes  it  as  "  a  very  striking 
species,  commonly  cultivated  on  the  Continent,  but  very  rarely  in  England,  where, 
however,  it  succeeds  admirably  in  the  open  air,  or  in  a  partially-shaded  rock-work, 
forming  brilliant  green  rosettes  of  leaves  four  to  six  inches  in  diameter,  and  sending 
up  at  Midsummer  a  truly  glorious  pyramidal  nodding  thyrsus,  a  foot  high,  of  white 
flowers  that  lasts  for  several  weeks.  It  is  a  native  of  the  higher  valleys  of  the 
Pyrenees,  at  the  Baths  of  the  Luchon,  and  elsewhere,  at  elevations  of  2000  to  7000 
feet  above  the  sea." 

Massonia  (astemma)  odorata  {Bot.  Mag.,  t.  5891). — A  sweet-scented  little 
Cape  bulb  with  white  flowers.  It  was  sent  in  1866  to  the  Royal  Gardens  by  D. 
Arnot,  Esq.,  who  resides  in  the  remote  district  of  Colesberg,  under  the  32nd  parallel 
of  N.  latitude,  bordering  the  Griqua  territory  and   Orange  Free  States,  whence  he 


190  THE   FLORAL   WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

has  transmitted  many  rare  and  curious  plants  to  Kew.     It  flowered  in  a  cool  house 
in  October  of  last  year. 

Agave  ixtlioides  {Bot.  Mag.,  t,  5893). — A  fine  rigid-leaved  agave,  producing 
a  tall  scape  of  candelabra-like  yellow  flowers.  The  species  before  us  is  one  that 
has  long  been  in  cultivation  at  Kew,  but  never  flowered  till  January  of  the  present 
year,  when  it  threw  up  a  scape  twelve  feet  high. 

Costus  Malortieanus  {Bot.  Mag.,  t.  5894). — A  remarkably  handsome  stove 
plant  from  Costa  Rica.  It  has  obovate  leaves  eight  to  twelve  inches  long,  and 
tubular  flowers  of  a  pale  yellow,  striped  with  red. 

Gilia  lixiflora  {Bot.  Mag.,  t.  5S95). — A  beautiful  hardy  annual  resembling 
a  white-flowered  flax. 

Nothoscobdum  aureihi  {Bot.  Mag.,  t.  5896). — A  pretty  liliaceous  plant  from 
California.  It  has  a  small  bulb  like  that  of  a  snowdrop,  and  an  elegant  scape  of 
yellow  flowers  in  the  fashion  of  an  allium. 

Begonia  ckinita  [Bot.  Mag.,  t.  5897). — An  extremely  elegant  plant,  with  red 
stems  and  delicate  pale  pink  or  deep  rose-coloured  flowers.  This  is  one  of  a  series 
of  beautiful  begonias  introduced  from  South  America  by  Messrs.  Veitch  and  Sons, 
through  their  energetic  collector,  the  late  Mr.  Pearce. 

Caladium  Mons.  Barillet  {Floral  Mag.,  t.  528). — A  splendid  Continental 
variety,  which  will  be  sent  out  by  Messrs.  Downie,  Laird,  and  Laing.  "  The 
groundwork  of  the  leaf  is  green,  the  midrib  and  veins  brilliant  crimson,  a  large 
irregular  blotch  of  the  same  colour  occupying  the  centre  of  the  leaf,  and  between 
it  and  the  green  a  margin  of  cream-colour  gradually  shades  off  into  the  deep  rich 
ground-colour  of  the  leaf." 

Amaryllis  Rayneri  {Bot.  Mag.,  t.  5SS3). — A  stately  plant,  producing  large  pale 
purple  flowers.  In  common  with  many  other  plants  of  this  fine  family,  Amaryllis 
Rayneri  is  a  native  of  Brazil.  The  bulbs  were  introduced  by  Dr.  Rayner,  of  Ux- 
bridge,  who  flowered  it  in  November  last,  and  thereby  secured  the  claim  to  be  com- 
memorated in  its  specific  name.  The  plant  has  bold  falcate  leaves,  and  the  scape 
bears  three  flowers  of  great  size  and  peculiar  beauty,  the  prevailing  colours  of  which 
are  palest  purple  or  mauve-rose  and  greenish  amber. 

Cvrtanthera  chrysostephana  {Bot.  Mag.,  t.  5887). — A  grand  tropical  shrub 
with  fine  heads  of  yellow  acanthaceous  flowers  and  handsome  ovate  leaves  of  a  rich 
dark  green,  the  midribs  of  which  are  of  a  vivid  red  colour.  This  species  is  less 
showy  than  C.  catalpcefolia  or  C.  aurantiaca,  but  is  more  elegant  in  habit  than 
either,  and  conspicuous  for  the  vivid  red  colour  of  the  midrib  and  nerves  of  the  leaf 
beneath.  The  flowers,  instead  of  being  disposed  in  a  dense  thyrsus,  or  axillary 
cymes,  as  in  most  species  of  the  genus,  are  collected  into  a  crown-like  corymb  at  the 
tips  of  the  branches,  and  are  of  a  bright  golden  yellow. 

Oncidium  tigrinxjm,  var.  splendidum  {Bot.  Mag.,  t.  5978).— A  fine  variety,  and 
perhaps  the  grandest  oncid  hitherto  discovered.  It  is  a  native  of  the  Irapseen 
mountains,  near  Valladolid  and  Paracho,  and  of  Mechoacan,  both  in  Mexico,  and, 
according  to  Van  Houtte  of  Guatemala.  It  flowered  in  the  splendid  collection  of 
Lord  Londesborough  in  February,  1870,  and  bore  twenty  flowers  on  a  branched 
raceme,  supported  by  a  peduncle  two  feet  long. 

Paulinnia  thalictrifolia  {Bot.  Mag.,  t.  5879). — A  woody  tropical  climber 
with  fern-like  leafage.  "  It  is  seldom,"  says  Dr.  Hooker,  "  that  a  woody  tropical 
climber  of  the  natural  family  to  which  the  subject  of  the  present  plate  belongs 
(Sapindacrea)  affords  a  subject  of  much  horticultural  interest ;  and  this  owes  its 
exceptional  character  to  the  beautiful  feathery  foliage  which,  accompanied  by  its 
scandent  habit,  gives  it,  when  in  a  young  state,  the  habit  and  appearance  of  a 
climbing  Bavallia,  or  allied  fern." 

Statice  spicata  (Gard.  Mag.,  p.  93,  1871). — This  is  said  to  be  a  charming 
Caucasian  species,  of  annual  duration,  flowering  early  in  the  season,  and  con- 
tinuing in  bloom  for  a  very  long  time.  The  leaves  are  prettily  semi-pinnatifid, 
of  a  lively  emerald  green,  and  form  a  spreading  tuft  out  of  which  rise  a  multitude 
of  cylindrical  earlike  spikes,  partly  undivided,  or  more  or  less  branched  in  a  pyra- 
midally-arranged fashion,  closely  set  with  flowers  of  a  rosy-pink  hue.  The  whole 
plant  represents  a  graceful  sub-pyramidal  bouquet  about  one  foot  in  height,  of  ex- 
ceedingly handsome  shape,  likely  to  be  useful  for  small  beds  or  for  edgings,  as  it 
succeeds  in  ordinary  garden  soil. 


THE   FLORAL   WORLD    AND   GARDEN   GUIDE.  191 


NOTICES  TO  CO-RESPONDENTS. 

Peak  for  a  South  Aspect. — J.  ~E.  S.,  Dalston. — Beurre  Bosc  is  a  fine  pear 
but  Marie  Louise,  or  Jargonelle  are  perhaps  more  productive,  and  they  attain 
maturity  at  an  earlier  date. 

Rose  Grubs. — A.  M.  C.  is  informed  that  hand  picking  is  the  only  practical 
remedy  for  the  destruction  of  the  grubs  which  are  attacking  the  rose  trees. 

Night  Scented  Stock.— J".  11. ,  Devonport. — You  ought  to  experience  no  diffi- 
culty in  obtaining  seed  of  this  plant.  We  find  that  it  is  entered  in  the  catalogues 
of  Messrs.  Sutton  and  Sons,  Reading,  Mr.  B.  S.  Williams,  Upper  Holloway,  and  in 
those  of  several  others  of  the  leading  houses. 

Books. — A.  Subscriber. — Thompson's  "Book  of  Annuals,"  and  "Profitable 
Gardening "  will  afford  you  tbe  desired  information.  There  is  no  book  published 
containing  the  whole  of  the  information  sought  for. 

Double-flowering  Peaches. — A.  D.  P. — Your  letter  came  too  late  to  insure 
a  reply  last  month.  The  trees  should  be  placed  in  a  sunny  position  in  the  open  air 
during  the  summer  months,  and  supplied  liberally  with  water.  Specimens  started 
early  should  not  be  placed  in  the  open  air  before  the  end  of  April.  If  the  foliage  is 
attacked  with  aphis  of  any  kind,  syringe  them  overhead  and  dust  with  tobacco 
powder,  and  after  it  has  been  on  twelve  hours  wash  it  off  again.  Centaureas 
should  be  planted  at  the  same  time  as  calceolarias  and  other  of  the  hardiest  bedders. 

Calceolarias  Dying  Off. — A.  S. — Probably  you  use  too  large  a  proportion  of 
manure,  and  also  water  the  plants  too  liberally.  We  believe  the  cause  of  the  plants 
perishing  may  be  safely  attributed  to  one  of  these  extremes. 

A.  D. — Pot  them  when  at  rest,  and  keep  in  the  temperature  of  an  ordinary 
greenhouse. 

Mrs.  H. — The  fern  is  not  new  ;  and  it  is  a  very  common  occurrence  to  raise 
ferns  from  seed.  Indeed  that  is  the  U3ual  mode  of  propagating  the  majority  of 
species. 

Covering  a  Porch  {B.  B.  £.) — The  quickest,  safest,  and  cheapest  covering 
would  be  Virginian  creeper.  A  little  less  quick  would  be  sempervirens  roses  very 
beautiful,  fast-growing  and  abundant  bloomers,  one  only  to  each  pillar.  These 
would  require  plenty  of  water,  and  the  ground  heavily  manured  before  planting  as 
the  chalky  substratum  will  try  them.  Less  quick  than  the  last,  but  in  such  a  hot 
place  very  suitable,  Ceanothus  papilosus,  which  would  requite  some  good  turf 
chopped  over  with  rotten  cow-dung.  Hedera  grandifolia,  a  grand  ivy  with  hu"e 
leaves,  would  run  up  quick,  and  be  rich  and  shady.  Clematises  would  rejoice  in 
that  hot,  dry,  chalky  bottom,  and  go  to  the  top  of  the  pillars  at  a  rapid  pace.  Be 
content  with  only  one  kind  of  plant,  have  no  mixtures.  You  are  in  time  now  to 
plant  any  of  them  from  pots. 

Tree  Ferns,  etc.  —  G.  M. — The  newly- imported  tree  ferns,  recently  purchased 
should  be  put  in  an  upright  position  in  some  cool,  close,  rather  dark  place,  such  as  a 
shed,  or  under  the  stage  of  a  greenhouse,  and  syringe  them  once  a  day  for  a  week. 
The  next  week  syringe  them  two  or  three  times  a  day,  and  protect  them  against 
draughts  of  air,  so  as  to  keep  them  constantly  damp.  In  about  three  weeks  they 
will  begin  to  show  signs  of  growth  ;  and  may  then  be  potted.  In  preparing  them 
for  pots,  cut  clean  away  all  hard,  dead,  wiry  roots,  so  as  to  reduce  their  stumps 
considerably.  It  is  seldom,  however,  that  there  are  any  roots  left  to  cut  away ;  tiny 
are  so  closely  trimmed  before  being  packed  for  transit.  The  best  soil  is  one  con- 
sisting wholly  of  tough  fibrous  peat,  with  plenty  of  sharp  sand.  When  the  crocks 
are  placed,  lay  over  them  some  rough  charcoal,  then  pot  the  trees  in  the  usual  way 
and  fill  the  stuff  in  as  firmly  as  possible.  Put  them  in  as  small  pots  as  possible  •  it 
is  easy  work  to  shift  them  on  as  they  grow,  and  it  is  a  great  help  if  the  roots  soon 
touch  the  sides  of  the  pots  after  they  begin  to  grow.  Do  not  make  the  soil  wet  at 
all  until  the  growth  has  advanced  somewhat ;  to  keep  it  regularly  damp  will 
suffice,  but  continue  to  syringe  the  stems  frequently,  as  the  moisture  absorbed 
that  way  will  soonest  arouse  the  energies  of  the  plants. 

Vines  and  LiauiD  Manure. — H.  N. — It  is  quite  possible  that  the  liquid 
manure  had  something  to  do  with  the  death  of  the  vines,  but  it  is  impossible  for  us 
to  say  whether  or  not  their  death  has  been  caused  by  its  being  usad  too  liberally. 
Two  year  old  vines  do  not  require  liquid  manure. 


192  THE  FLORAL   WORLD  AND   GARDEN   GUIDE. 

G.  J.  W. — Pour  the  water  upon  fresh  lime,  and  when  the  lime  has  settled,  and 
the  water  has  become  perfectly  pure,  it  will  be  ready  for  use.  A  bushel  of  lime  to 
a  hogshead  of  water  would  be  a  good  proportion. 

Preservation  of  French  Beans. — French  beans,  when  properly  preserved,  are 
so  valuable  for  use  during;  the  winter  months,  that  we  gladly  insert  the  following 
contribution  upon  the  subject  from  an  esteemed  correspondent.  Our  correspondent 
says  : — "  The  preservation  of  French  beans  is  a  very  simple  matter.  Take  an 
earthenware  pipkin,  with  upright  sides,  of  the  capacity  required  ;  about  four  gallons 
will  be  enough  for  a  small  family  of  four  ;  put  a  layer  of  salt  at  the  bottom, 
then  one  of  beans,  and  so  on,  in  alternate  layers,  to  the  top  cover,  with  a  layer 
of  salt,  and  the  thing  is  done.  Before  cooking,  sufficient  beans  for  a  dish  must 
be  taken  out  and  soaked  for  several  hours  in  cold  water,  to  get  rid  of  the  salt. 
The  beans,  of  course,  must  be  picked  in  dry  weather." — Experientia. 

Names  of  Ferns. — Prestivich. — No.  1,  Asplenium  adiantum  nigrum ;  2. 
Blechnttm  spicant ;  3.  Scolopendrium  vulgare.  The  Petunia  is  wrong  at  the  root  ; 
probably  the  drainage  of  the  pot  is  choked  up,  and  the  soil  has  become  sour  in 
consequence. 

A.  B.  S. — "We  have  had  no  experience  with  the  preparation  referred  to,  and  are 
therefore  unable  to  afford  you  any  information  respecting  its  value. 

Clat  Soil. — J.  T.  B. — The  admixture  of  a  liberal  proportion  of  road  scrapings 
or  other  light  sandy  material  will  be  the  most  suitable  manner  of  dealing  with  the 
stubborn  clay  in  the  position  referred  to. 

Ficcs  elasticus  Propagation. — J.  T.  B. — Ficus  elasticus  is  by  no  means 
difficult  to  propagate,  and  the  present  moment  is  very  suitable,  for  the  work.  Cut 
the  well-matured  portion  of  the  stem  into  lengths  of  two  inches  each,  with  a  pair  of 
leaves  to  each,  then  split  the  stem  down  the  centre,  and  lay  the  pieces  on  the  green- 
house shelf  for  a  few  hours.  Insert  them  singly  in  pots  filled  with  light  sandy 
soil ;  bury  the  portion  of  the  stem  about  an  inch  below  the  surface,  and  secure  the 
leaf  to  a  short  stake  to  prevent  its  becoming  loose.  The  cutting  pots  should  be 
placed  in  a  warm  corner  of  the  greenhouse,  unless  you  have  the  convenience  of  a 
cucumber  or  melon  frame  ;  the  frame  is  preferable,  but  they  will  strike  in  an  ordi- 
nary greenhouse  at  this  season  of  the  year.  Although  Ficus  elasticus  is  valuable 
for  the  decoration  of  indoor  apartments  and  conservatories  during  the  summer 
season,  it  requires  a  temperature  rather  higher  than  that  of  the  ordinary  greenhouse 
during  the  winter  to  keep  it  in  good  health.  In  wintering  it  in  the  greenhouse,  it 
is  essential  to  keep  the  plants  rather  dry  at  the  roots. 

A.  D. — Kilburn. — The  plants  must  have  full  exposure  to  the  sun  throughout 
the  year,  for,  when  placed  in  a  shady  situation,  the  leaves  soon  lose  the  brilliancy  of 
the  leaf-tints. 

Club  in  Cabbages  and  Borecoles. —  G.  Smith. — Whatever  enriches,  refreshes, 
and  renews  the  soil  will  tend  to  abolish  club.  Deep  digging  and  plenty  of  manure 
will  do  more  to  eradicate  club  ihan  all  the  nostrums  ever  heard  of — in  fact,  nostrums 
are  not  of  much  avail,  because  clubbing  begins  in  the  seed-bed.  We  advise  you  to 
sprinkle  lime  over  the  young  plants  as  soon  as  they  appear  in  the  seed-bed,  to 
practise  deep  digging,  and,  when  planting  out,  dip  the  roots  in  a  puddle  of  clay, 
lime,  and  soot. 

Pruning  Acacias.— IF".  G. — Acacias  are  usually  pruned  after  flowering;  in 
some  cases,  the  growth  that  follows  pruning  is  pinched  back  once  or  twice  to  increase 
the  bushiness  of  the  plants,  care  being  taken  to  promote  a  thorough  ripening  of  the 
wood  to  insure  a  good  bloom  again.  The  bloom  never  need  be  lost,  except  in  the 
case  of  cutting  down  old  plants  to  stumps,  in  which  case  one  season's  bloom  must 
at  least  be  lost. 

Gourds. — S.  S.  writes  to  say  that  he  is  anxious  to  preserve  pure  seed  of  certain 
races  of  gourds,  but  he  fears  that  his  this  year  will  he  a  mixed  lot,  and  that  in 
his  plantation  are  several  hybrids,  the  result  of  crossing  last  year,  which  he  regards 
as  rogues,  and  is  anxious  to  preserve  the  seed  pure  for  next  season.  He  must 
remove  all  male  flower -buds  before  they  open  ;  the  females  may  be  left  to  swell  their 
fruit,  as  they  will  be  fertilized  by  the  males  of  the  typical  kinds.  The  fruits  on  the 
rogue  plants  may  be  used  young  as  marrows,  or,  when  ripe,  for  any  of  the  purposes 
to  which  ripe  gourds  are  put,  but  the  seeds  taken  from  them  must  be  destroyed.  To 
sum  up  the  advice  in  few  words— nip  the  male  buds  from  the  rogues,  and  eat  all  the 
fruits  the  rogues  produce. 


If         4^      r 


VARIETIES     OF     PRIMULA     C  0  R  T  U  S  0  I  D  E  S. 


THE    FLORAL    WORLD    AND   GARDEN    GUIDE.  193 

VAEIETIES  OF  PEIMULA  COETUSOIDES. 

{Illustrated  with  a  Coloured  Plate.) 

»HE  two  beautiful  primulas  represented  in  the  accompany- 
ing plate  are  the  most  attractive  of  a  very  interesting 
group.  The  type  of  the  group,  P.  cortusoides,  is  an  old 
favourite  in  the  few  gardens  wherein  hardy  herbaceous 
plants  are  properly  cared  for ;  but  the  varieties  to  which 
we  now  more  particularly  direct  attention  are  of  quite  recent  intro- 
duction, and  are  as  yet  comparatively  little  known.  As  we  intend 
this  notice  to  be  both  brief  and  useful,  we  will  say  as  little  as  possible 
in  the  way  of  criticism,  and  as  much  as  possible,  though  in  the  fewest 
possible  words,  on  the  merits  of  the  plants  and  the  best  known 
methods  of  cultivating  them.  The  imaginative  reader  wdl  kindly 
invent  for  himself  or  herself  all  else  that  might  be  said  on  so  attrac- 
tive a  theme. 

Eirst — Of  the  typical  plant  Primula  cortusoides.  It  forms  a  tuft 
consisting  of  heart-shaped  bluntty-toothed  leaves  of  a  bright  green 
colour,  agreeably  adorned  with  compact  umbels  of  purplish  rose- 
coloured  flowers  in  the  months  of  May  and  June.  It  is  always  a  neat 
plant ;  when  in  flower  it  is  extremely  pretty,  and  should  one  meet 
with  the  rare  sight  of  a  few  very  large  clumps  of  it,  the  grandeur  of 
the  plant  will  not  be  soon  forgotten. 

If  planted  in  the  common  border  and  left  to  take  care  of  itself, 
this  plant  is  likely  enough  to  die ;  and  yet,  in  some  places,  to  plant 
it  anywhere  and  leave  it  alone  would  be  the  most  satisfactory  mode 
of  cultivating  it.  We  have  for  many  years  enjoyed  its  abundant 
dowering  on  a  ledge  of  a  rockery  facing  the  north  ;  the  soil  deep  and 
gritty,  and  thoroughly  well  drained.  From  April  to  August  the 
tufts — indeed  the  whole  of  this  part  of  the  rockery — is  heavily  watered 
once  a  week.  This  system  suits  a  large  proportion  of  the  best  Alpines 
in  cultivation.  The  north  aspect  is  peculiarly  well  adapted  for  its 
requirements,  for,  as  a  native  of  Siberia,  exposure  to  the  full  sun 
would  debilitate  the  constitution  of  the  plant ;  in  fact,  the  main 
difficulty  about  growing  Arctic  and  Alpine  plants  is  that  our  climate 
is  too  warm  for  them,  and  they  perish  through  growing  too  fast. 

The  varieties  that  are  here  figured  represent  a  group  of  plants 
of  more  robust  habit  than  the  type,  and  producing  flowers  far  more 
showy  both  in  size  and  colour.  The  finest  of  the  series  introduced 
was  P.  c.  amcena,  a  native  of  Japan,  which  Messrs.  Veitch  and  Son 
obtained  for  our  gardens  in  the  year  1864.  From  the  same  enter- 
prising firm  there  have  been  sent  out  several  other  varieties,  all  of 
which  in  their  leading  characteristics  cluster  round  P.  c.  amcena,  so 
that  we  must  regard  that  variety,  and  not  the  species,  as  the  proper 
type  of  them.  They  are  all  fine  plants,  thoroughly  hardy,  yet  but 
rarely  prospering  in  the  common  open  border.  _The  best  of  all  places 
for  them  is  the  frame  :  they  are,  indeed,  the  finest  frame  plants  we 
possess  ;  for  neglect  will  rarely  kill  them,  and  proper  care  will  bring 
VOL.  v;-Mi.  tit.  13 


194  THE   FLORAL    WOULD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

them  to  a  condition  of  extraordinary  beauty.  To  grow  them  well, 
the  soil  should  he  a  rich,  sandy  loam,  the  pots  well  drained,  the 
plants  at  all  times  preserved  from  any  approach  to  drought,  and 
during  summer  to  have  abundance  of  water.  The  whole  stock  should 
be  re-potted  annually,  no  matter  how  well  the  plants  are  doing ;  the 
proper  time  for  this  operation  is  the  month  of  July,  when  they  are 
comparatively  at  rest.  The  following  list  includes  all  the  varieties 
known : — 

Amcena. — A  robust-habited  plant,  (lowering  freely.  Flowers  rich 
rosy  carmine  ;  one  of  the. finest  of  the  group.  The  flowers  in  the 
lower  half  of  the  plate  very  fairly  represent  this  handsome  variety. 

Intermedia. — This  is  well  named  for  those  who  know  the  specific 
form.  The  flowers  are  most  abundantly  produced,  the  colour  lilac 
carmine.     A  very  desirable  plant. 

Alia. — A  fine  plant,  with  large,  handsome,  pure  white  flowers, 
which  droop  as  if  blown  aside  by  the  wind*  The  brilliant  green,  of 
its  leaves,  and  the  snowy  purity  of  its  flowers,  constitute  this  a 
striking  plant,  notwithstanding  the  drooping  of  its  flowers. 

Striata  virida. — A  pretty  starry  flower,  white,  with  obscure  green 
stripe.  A  good  companion  plant  to  Intermedia.  It  will  indicate 
the  exact  relations  of  this  variety,  and  also  exemplify  the  elegancies 
of  botanical  nomenclature,  if  we  add  that  its  proper  (or  say  legal) 
name  is  Primula  coriusoides  v.  ameeim  s.  v.  alba  s.  s.  v.  striata  viridis. 

]N\B. — A  rose  by  any  other  name  would  smell  as  sweet ;  and  if 
this  primula  bore  a  shorter  name  it  would  be  none  the  less  pretty. 
Comfort  from  Horatius— 

".     .     .     .     Levins  fit  patientiS 

Quicquid  corrigera  est  neias." 

Grandiflora  is  apocryphal.  When  a  plant  of  Amcena  is  extra  well 
grown  it  becomes  "  Grandiflora,"  and  vice  versa,  if  Grandiflora  is  only 
middling  well  grown,  it  becomes  "Amcena."  To  put  the  case  in  plain 
English,  Grandiflora  is  a  nursery  name  for  a  nonentity. 

Oculata  is  only  a  good  state  of  Amcena,  showing  a  distinct  white 
eye.  To  repeat  the  solemn  truth  just  uttered,  Oculata  is  a  nursery 
name  for  a  nonentity. 

liilacina  is  an  exquisitely  beautiful  plant,  as  the  topmost  figure 
in  our  plate  will  indicate.  The  flowers  are  large,  quite  flat,  the 
edges  fringed  or  lacerated,  the  colour  palest  blush,  overlaid  with 
delicate  vein3  of  lilac  and  palest  purplish  rose.  This  and  Amcena, 
which  is  shown  in  the  lower  part  of  the  plate,  are  the  best  of  the 
group,  but  the  others  we  have  recommended  are  quite  needful  to  any 
cultivator  who  can  find  amusement  in  the  cultivation  of  first-class 
frame  and  Alpine  plants. 

Of  the  charming  P.  Japonica  and  P.  VerticiUaia  we  must  seek  an 
early  opportunity  to  discourse,  perhaps  with  the  aid  of  our  artist, 
who  tries  hard  aud  with  honourable  zeal  to  "paint  like  nature." 

S.H. 


THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND   GARDEN   GUIDE.  195 

SUMMER  WORK  IN  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

EY    GEOEGE    GEAY, 
Head  Gardener,  Norbitou  Hall,  Kingston-on-Tliames. 

N  order  to  secure  a  good  supply  of  vegetables  during  the 
late  autumn,  winter,  and  early  spring  months,  the  great- 
;*||  est  amount  of  activity  is  necessary  during  July,  and  the 
planting  of  broccoli,  borecole,  and,  indeed,  winter  greens 
JSS*ga^  of  all  kinds,  must  be  completed  during  that  month, 
because  it  is  impossible  for  crops  planted  later  in  the  season  to  attain 
their  full  development  by  the  time  the  weather  becomes  cold  enough 
to  put  a  stop  to  the  growth.  Seed  of  many  useful  vegetables  may 
still  be  sown  with  the  greatest  degree  of  success,  but  there  is  no 
time  to  lose.  When  the  ground  is  occupied  with  the  remnants  of  peas 
and  other  crops  the  plots  should  be  cleared  at  once,  and  manured 
and  dug  up  deeply,  because  it  is  folly  to  risk  important  crops  for 
the  sake  of  the  chajice  of  one  or  two  dishes.  The  stumps  of  early 
cabbages  should  also  be  cleared,  for  the  few  dishes  of  greens  that 
will  be  obtained  from  them  will  certainly  not  pay  for  the  space 
occupied.  Instead  of  allowing  them  to  remain  until  the  winter,  as  is 
so  frequently  done,  it  will  be  far  more  profitable  to  destroy  them, 
and,  after  the  ground  has  been  turned  up,  to  sow  with  turnips,  or 
plant  with  some  other  crops,  and  form  a  small  plantation  of  cab- 
bages elsewhere. 

Liberal  manuring  and  deep  digging  are  both  important  matters 
in  the  kitchen  garden,  and  must  be  regulated  by  the  circumstances 
in  which  each  cultivator  is  placed.  Every  part  of  the  kitchen  gar- 
den should,  if  possible,  be  trenched  to  the  depth  of  two  feet  during 
the  winter  season,  every  second  year  at  least,  and  it  should  be  dug 
over  after  every  crop.  The  ground  should  also  be  mauured  once  a 
year,  and  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  good  stable  or  farm-yard 
manure,  when  about  half  rotten,  is  the  best  that  can  be  employed. 
Amongst  the  artificial  manures  phospbo-guano  is  the  most  desirable, 
because  its  fertilizing  properties  are  of  the  highest  order,  and,  unlike 
the  samples  of  ordinary  guano,  do  not  vary  much  in  quality.  Guano 
would  be  one  of  the  most  valuable  assistants  the  amateur  could  pos- 
sibly have  were  it  not  for  the  fact  that  such  an  enormous  price  is 
charged  for  it  when  purchased  in  smaller  quantities  than  one  cvvt. ; 
and  in  buying  it  by  the  hundredweight  a  rate  of  nearly  double  the 
price  per  ton  is  charged,  and  guano  exceeding  £20  per  ton  cannot 
be  employed  in  the  kitchen  garden  with  profit.  In  applying  guano, 
when  the  seed  is  sown  in  drills,  it  should  be  sprinkled  along  the 
drills,  and  then  covered  very  lightly  with  fine  soil  previous  to  sowing 
the  seed.  But  in  all  other  cases  it  should  be  sown  broadcast  over  the 
surface  before  the  seed  is  sown  or  the  plants  put  cut,  as  the  case 
may  be.  The  rate  at  which  it  should  be  used  in  the  kitchen  garden 
is  from  three  to  four  cwt.  per  acre ;  and  before  quieting  this  part  of 
the  subject,  it  is  desirable  to  add  that  the  assistance  it  will  be  to 


196  THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 

the  crop  following  "will  be  nearly,  and  in  some  cases  even  quite  equal 
to  the  influence  it  will  have  upon  the  crops  sown  or  planted  imme- 
diately after  its  application.  Having  proceeded  thus  far,  as  it  will 
enable  what  follows  to  be  better  understood,  each  class  of  vegetables 
will  be  grouped  together  in  separate  paragraphs. 

French  Beans. — It  is  too  late  to  sow  the  tall  varieties  now,  but 
several  of  the  dwarf  kinds  may  be  sown,  if  required,  with  the  moat 
desirable  results.  If  a  liberal  sowing  was  not  made  towards  the  end 
of  last  month  to  succeed  the  earliest  crops,  a  considerable  breadth 
should  be  sown  in  a  sunuy  border  without  delay.  If  the  soil  is  dry, 
fill  the  drills  with  water,  then  plant  and  cover  up  quickly  ;  for  when 
the  seed  is  sown  in  dry  soil  it  will  most  probably  lay  dormant  in  the 
ground  for  a  considerable  period,  and  the  plants  may  not  attain  a 
fruiting  size  before  the  frost  cuts  them  oft*.  The  advancing  crops 
should  also  be  well  looked  after;  those  in  bearing  must  have  the 
pods  removed  immediately  they  are  large  enough  for  the  table,  and 
if  it  is  desirable  to  save  seed,  set  apart  an  end  of  a  long  row,  or  a 
whole  row  if  short,  for  that  purpose,  because  nothing  interferes  so 
much  with  the  productiveness  ot  both  the  dwarf  and  tall  sorts  as  the 
common  practice  of  leaving  a  few  pods  on  each  plant  until  they 
attain  maturity.  "Where  the  conveniences  exist  the  supply  may  be 
kept  up  a  fortnight  or  three  weeks  later  than  usual,  by  sowing  a  row 
at  the  foot  of  a  south  wall  and  protecting  it  in  cold  and  frosty  wea- 
ther with  spare  lights.  The  Negro  Long-podded  is  undoubtedly  the 
best  for  all  purposes  out  of  doors. 

Broccoli,  Borecole,  and  Kale. — Under  this  heading  we  must 
include  Brussels  sprouts,  which  require  exactly  the  same  manage- 
ment as  Scotch  and  other  kales.  The  broccoli  crop  is  so  often  either 
wholly  or  partially  destroyed  by  the  severe  winters  that  the  kale 
should  be  considered  of  the  first  importance  in  gardens  of  all  classes, 
and  almost  exclusively  grown  in  gardens  of  a  limited  extent.  Indeed,, 
in  small  gardens,  the  broccolis  that  are  usually  fit  for  the  table  be- 
fore Christmas  should  alone  be  planted  ;  and  as  we  seldom  have  very 
severe  weather  before  the  middle  of  December,  there  is  not  so  much 
risk  attached  to  their  cultivation.  And  by  lifting  and  storing  them 
in  a  dry  structure,  where  they  will  be  secure  from  frost,  the  supply 
may  be  prolonged  for  a  considerable  period  after  Christmas.  The 
most  desirable  of  the  early  kinds  for  forming  a  succession  are  Early 
White  Cape  and  Granges  Cauliflower;  and  for  those  who  are  not 
particular  about  the  colour  the  Early  Txirple  Cape  can  be  highly 
recommended.  But  to  have  them  ready  for  the  table  before  the 
severe  weather  occurs  the  plants  must  be  put  out  early  in  a  favour- 
able position. 

The  three  best  kales  for  gardens  of  all  kinds  are  the  Dwarf  Green 
Curled  Scotch,  the  Cottager's,  and  the  Jerusalem,  all  of  which  are 
comparatively  hardy,  productive,  and  of  delicate  flavour,  and  the 
former  should  be  grown  in  the  same  proportion  as  the  other  two 
combined.  In  small  gardens  the  two  fin:t  mentioned  will  be  quite 
sufficient.  The  most  delicate-flavoured  of  all  the  kales  is  the  one 
known  as  CJiou  de  Milan;  but  it  is  rather  tender,  and  its  cultivation 
is  attended  with  a  considerable  degree  of  risk.     The  Albert  Sprouts 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  197 

are  hardy,  productive,  and  delicate  in  flavour,  and  a  fair  proportion 
should  be  planted.  Brussels  Sprouts  are  too  well  known  to  need 
comment,  and  must  be  planted  according  to  the  space  at  disposal  and 
the  requirements  of  the  kitchen. 

The  cultivation  of  winter  greens  of  all  kinds  is  comprised  in  a 
deep,  rich  soil,  and  early  planting ;  therefore  they  should  be  put  out 
as  fast  as  the  quarters  occupied,  with  early  crops  can  be  cleared  for 
them.  Where  a  portion  of  the  stock  of  any  of  the  kinds  has  to  be 
planted  between  potatoes,  the  strongest  plants  should  be  selected 
for  that  purpose,  because  the  small  plants  stand  a  chance  of  being 
smothered  by  the  haulm  of  the  potatoes. 

Cabbage,  although  one  of  the  most  profitable  crops  that  can  be 
grown  in  a  small  garden,  is  not  usually  looked  upon  with  much 
favour.  The  varieties  in  commerce  are  now  very  numerous,  but  for 
general  crops  Wheeler's  Imperial  and  Enfield  Market  are  decidedly 
the  best.  Although  they  occupy  more  space  than  compact-growing 
kinds,  good  breadths  of  either  of  these  sorts  put  out  at  once  will 
prevent  the  possibility  of  there  being  any  scarcity  of  green  stuff 
during  the  autumn.  Both  should  be  planted  eighteen  inches  apart, 
in  rows  two  feet  from  each  other.  The  most  desirable  of  the  small, 
compact  growers,  are  Athins's  Matchless  and  Mill's  Incomparable, 
and  they  should  be  put  out  twelve  inches  apart,  in  rows  eighteen 
inches  from  each  other,  which  will  afford  them  plenty  of  room, 
because  they  should  be  cut  and  sent  to  table  before  hard  white 
hearts  are  formed. 

If  the  sowing  of  cabbage  seed  was  neglected  at  the  proper  time, 
and  a  difficulty  exists  in  obtaining  plants  of  a  good  sort,  a  consider- 
able breadth  of  the  Early  London  Colewort  should  be  sown  at  the 
first  opportunity  possible,  and  a  second  sowing  made  either  in  the 
last  week  of  July  or  the  first  week  of  August.  Plant  out  immediately 
they  are  strong  enough  at  a  distance  of  twelve  inches  apart  each 
way,  for  they  take  up  very  little  space  when  full  grown.  Coleworts 
are  so  useful  for  planting  after  potatoes  and  other  crops  that  come 
off  the  ground  during  July  and  August,  that  a  moderate  qua-ntity 
should  be  planted  even  where  a  good  breadth  of  cabbage  is  already 
put  out. 

Cauliflowers. — Strong  plants  of  either  the  Earhj  London  or 
JSTew  Erfurt  Dwarf  Mammoth,  put  out  in  good  soil,  and  watered 
every  alternate  evening  until  they  are  established,  will  produce  fine 
heads  in  the  autumn,  and  may  be  taken  up  and  preserved  for  a  con- 
siderable period  in  a  frame  or  other  structure  where  they  can  be 
protected  from  frost  and  damp.  Preserve  the  roots  in  taking  them 
up  when  full  grown,  and  remove  a  few  of  the  outside  leaves ;  because 
it  will  be  necessary  in  laying  them  in  by  their  heels  to  pack  them 
rather  close  together,  and  if  they  are  too  much  crowded  the  leaves 
will  decay,  and  if  not  removed,  render  the  head  unfit  for  use. 

Cabbots. — A  small  sowing  of  Early  Short  Horn  will  be  extremely 
useful  for  furnishing  a  supply  of  tender  carrots  for  drawing  during 
the  autumn.  A  second  sowing  made  about  the  middle  of  August 
will  yield  a  supply  during  the  following  spring,  little,  if  at  all  inferior, 
to  those  grown  upon  hotbeds  under  glass,  without  any  of  the  trouble 


198  THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

or  expense  of  that  mode  of  culture.  The  last  sowing  should  he  made 
in  a  dry  position ;  and  if  the  garden  is  in  a  low  situation,  raise  the 
bed  a  few  inches  above  the  surface  with  the  soil  taken  from  the 
paths ;  and  in  very  severe  weather  a  layer  of  newly-gathered  leaves 
or  long  litter  will  prevent  the  frost  penetrating  the  ground,  and  thus 
enable  the  carrots  to  be  taken  up  without  the  least  difficulty  in  the 
most  severe  weather. 

Celery. — The  planting  of  the  main  crop  of  celery  must  be  com- 
pleted as  early  in  the  month  as  possible.  In  taking  it  up,  preserve 
the  roots ;  and  after  it  is  planted,  well  water  it  in,  and  screen  from 
the  sun  during  the  first  few  days  after  it  is  put  out.  It  can  be  easily 
shaded  by  a  few  branches  of  evergreens  over  the  trenches ;  or,  if 
more  convenient,  mats  or  strips  of  canvas  may  be  employed.  Celery 
will,  of  course,  do  without  shade  when  newly  planted ;  but  a  light 
shade  as  here  recommended  will  be  of  immense  assistance  in  enabling 
the  plants  to  become  established  quickly. 

Ifor  the  assistance  of  those  who  have  to  purchase  plants  it  is 
desirable  to  add  that  Williams'g  Mcubehless  Reel  and  Incomparable 
Dioarf'Whiic  are  excellent  kinds. 

Pakslet. — To  ensure  a  supply  of  this  useful  herb  throughout 
the  autumn  and  winter  it  will  be  necessary  to  sow  in  the  first  or 
second  week  in  August.  If,  however,  no  seed  has  been  sown  since 
March  or  April,  a  moderate  quantity  should  be  sown  in  the  first 
or  second  week  in  July.  Fill  the  trench  with  water  previous  to 
sowing  the  seed,  and  thin  out  liberally  before  the  plants  attain  a 
large  size. 

Spinach. — "Where  this  vegetable  is  in  request  a  breadth  must  be 
sown  once  a  fortnight,  because  at  this  season  of  the  year  it  so  scon 
runs  to  seed.  It  is  a  good  plan  in  gathering  spinach,  when  young, 
to  thin  the  plants  and  use  the  thinning?,  instead  of  gathering  the 
largest  leaves  from  the  whole  row.  A  rich  soil  is  necessary  to  pro- 
duce good  crops  at  this  season  of  the  year. 

Tuenips  are  extremely  useful  for  following  the  early  crops  of 
potatoes,  peas,  cauliflowers,  and  other  vegetables ;  but  they  are  not 
so  profitable  perhaps  in  very  small  gardens  as  many  other  things. 
To  obtain  large,  juicy  bulbs,  a  quick  growth  is  essential,  and  the 
best  means  of  securing  that  important  condition  is  by  sowing  in 
moderately-rich  soil.  Quarters  from  which  potatoes  have  been  taken 
may  be  sown  down  without  being  dug  over,  as  the  drills  can  be  made 
in  the  centre  of  the  space  occupied  by  each  row  of  potatoes  ;  but,  of 
course,  it  is  preferable  to  turn  it  up.  G-uano  is  one  of  the  very  best 
manures  for  turnips,  and  a  dressing  at  the  rate  specified  above  should 
be  applied,  unless  the  ground  was  enriched  with  manure  when 
prepared  for  the  previous  crop.  Immediately  the  young  plants  begin 
to  peep  through  the  soil  keep  a  sharp  look  out  for  "  lly,"  and  if  any 
of  the  plants  are  destroyed,  dust  at  once  with  soot,  applying  it  when 
'  the  leaves  are  moist  from  the  dew.  Very  frequently  turnip  crops  are 
totally  destroyed  by  the  "fly"  taking  the  plants  as  fast  as  they 
appear  above  ground  ;  and  as  no  plants  are  seen,  complaints  are  made 
of  the  seed  being  bad,  as  it  is  thought  that  it  has  not  germinated. 
Soot  acts  as  a  fertiliser  as  well  as  an  insecticide,  therefore  it  may  be 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  199 

applied  with  advantage  even,  if  no  danger  from  the  fly  is  appre- 
hended. The  Early  White  Stone  or  Siv-Week?  is  the  quickest  in 
growth,  and  good  in  quality;  the  Early  Snowball  is  also  remarkably 
good ;  and  for  standing  the  winter,  Chirk  Castle  Black  Stone  can  be 
highly  recommended.  The  skin  of  the  latter  is  black,  but  the  flesh 
is  perfectly  white,  and  of  excellent  flavour.  The  necessary  thinning 
should  be  done  when  the  plants  are  small,  for  it  not  only  occupies 
less  time,  but  it  is  better  for  the  crop. 


DAHLIAS.— No.  III. 

BY    JOHN   WALSH. 


AHLIAS  have  not  been  forgotten,  but  up  to  the  present 
moment  the  cultivator  has  not  been  in  want  of  advice 
if  he  has  paid  due  attention  to  the  hints  given  in  the 
papers  published  in  the  Floral  World  for  March  and 
April.  Even  now  there  is  very  little  to  be  said,  as  it 
is  yet  too  early  to  deal  with  the  preparation  of  the  blooms  for 
exhibition.  There  are,  however,  a  few  points  to  which  attention 
may  be  profitably  directed  ;  for  upon  proper  attention  to  the  wants 
and  requirements  of  the  plants  at  the  present  moment  depends  the 
success  that  will  be  met  with  at  the  exhibition. 

The  weather  through  June  has  been  so  cold  that  the  plants  in 
all  but  the  most  favourable  positions  have  not  made  much  progress  ; 
but  as  we  may  reasonably  expect  some  warm  weather  during  the 
ensuing  month.  Thinning  and  training  the  growth  must  be  at  once 
thought  about.  The  support  for  the  main  stem  was  recommended 
to  be  put  to  the  plants  when  they  were  planted,  and  if  this  advice 
was  acted  upon,  we  have  now  only  to  consider  the  support  of  the 
side  branches.  From  three  to  five  of  the  latter  should  be  allowed  to 
each  plant,  and  must  be  made  secure  from  injury  by  the  wind  by 
affixing  a  stout  stake  to  each  immediately  they  appear  to  need  sup- 
port. The  stakes  should  be  iuserted  about  twelve  or  fifteen  inches 
from  the  main  stem  in  a  slanting  direction  so  as  to  give  each  branch 
all  the  space  possible ;  and  to  make  everything  extra  secure,  connect 
all  the  stakes  together  by  strong  pieces  of  string.  The  growth  must 
not  be  thinned  too  severely,  but  it  will  be  necessary  to  remove  a  fevv" 
of  the  most  weakly  shoots  to  prevent  overcrowding,  both  on  the 
main  stem  and  secondary  branches  ;  and  they  should  be  cut  off  close 
to  the  stem  to  prevent  them  breaking  again  and  producing  a  lot  of 
useless  spray.  Sometimes,  especially  in  hot  and  dry  seasons  like 
those  of  1867  and  1870,  Dahlias  have  a  tendency  to  bloom  prema- 
turely, and  if  not  looked  after  and  the  flowers  removed  the  growth 
will  experience  a  serious  check.  When  they  are  grown  merely  for  de- 
coration, their  flou-ering  early  is  not  of  so  much  consequence. 

The  main  object  should  be  to  secure  a  healthy  growth,  and  the 
removal  of  all  the  early  flowers  is  one  of  the  most  essential  condi- 


200  THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

lions  for  attaining  that  end.  Farther  on  in  the  season  it  will  be 
necessary  to  remove  all  but  the  most  promising  flower-buds  from 
the  lateral  branches,  to  throw  all  the  vigour  into  the  one  remain- 
ing. The  flowers  that  are  disfigured  in  the  slightest  manner  must 
be  removed  as  soon  as  the  defects  become  apparent,  to  prevent  the 
energies  of  the  plant  being  diverted  from  the  support  of  the  flowers 
that  promise  to  be  of  no  service.  But  next  month  will  be  quite  early 
enough  to  dwell  upon  this  point. 

To  ensure  fine  blooms  it  will  be  necessary  to  water  rather  copious- 
ly once  or  twice  a  week  during  dry  weather,  and  the  plants  will  be 
materially  assisted  if  the  water  is  flavoured  with  the  drainings  from 
the  stable  or  manure  heaps,  or  if  guano,  at  tbe  rate  of  an  ounce  to 
the  gallon  of  water,  is  added  to  it  before  it  is  used.  Very  little 
artificial  watering  will,  however,  be  required  where  the  soil  is  of  a 
moderately  retentive  character ;  and  so  long  as  the  plants  grow 
freely,  artificial  watering  will  not  be  required.  Watering  them  over- 
head is  of  considerable  importance,  and  a  large  canfull  of  water  poured 
over  them  through  a  coarse  rose  on  the  evening  of  a  hot  day,  will 
materially  assist  in  keeping  the  foliage  clean  and  healthy,  and  thus 
promote  a  vigorous  growth.  "Watering  overhead  will  also  aid  in 
keeping  them  free  from  red  spider  or  thrips.  The  garden  engine 
is  the  proper  thing  for  washing  the  foliage,  but  as  so  few  amateurs 
possess  one,  it  will  not  be  of  much  service  to  recommend  it. 

Trapping  of  earwigs  should  be  commenced  now  ;  a  vast  amount 
of  labour  and  anxiety  will  be  avoided  hereafter.  The  best  method  is 
to  employ  small  pots,  each  with  a  tuft  of  moss  in  it  and  mounted  on 
a  stick  above  the  plant. 

If  aphis  appears,  destroy  them  by  dusting  with  tobacco  powder. 


GOLDEN,   SILVER,   AND   BRONZE    ZONALS. 

ET    EOBEKT    OUBEIDGE, 

Church  Walk  Nurseries,  Stoke  Kewingtou,  N. 


[HE  best  varieties  of  these  important  sections  of  the  great 
Geranium  family  are  so  valuable  for  the  decoration  of 
the  conservatory,  sitting-room  window,  and  balcony 
garden  during  the  summer  and  autumn  months,  that  I 
trust  you  will  afford  me  a  little  space  in  the  Eeobal 
World  to  give  a  few  hints  on  their  management,  and  also  that  the 
hints  will  be  of  assistance  to  many  of  its  readers.  The  cultural 
requirements  of  the  varieties  belonging  to  the  three  sections  are  so 
similar  that  the  directions  here  given  will  apply  with  equal  force  to 
all,  and  one  set  of  instructions  will  therefore  be  sufficent. 

To  produce  large  richly-coloured  specimens  of  the  Golden  and 
Silver  Zonals  in  the  least  possible  space  of  time,  they  must  be  grafted 
on  stocks  of  some  of  the  strongest  growing  green-leaved  varieties, 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE.  201 

or  upon  seedling  plants  of  the  same  class.  It  is  a  very  easy  matter 
to  graft  them  ;  indeed,  it  is  easier  to  perform  the  operation  than  it  is 
to  describe  it.  Por  the  stocks,  select  strong  plants  which  have  stout 
and  rather  firm  stems  and  are  well  established  in  the  pots,  because 
to  ensure  successful  results  the  plants  must  be  growing  freely  and 
the  sap  in  active  circulation.  Cut  the  stock  down  to  within  a  few 
inches  of  the  soil,  split  the  top  a  little  way  down  the  centre,  say  an 
inch  and  a  half ;  and  after  cutting  the  base  of  the  graft  into  the  shape 
of  a  wedge,  insert  it  in  the  cleft  so  that  the  two  barks  are,  on  one  side 
if  not  on  both,  neatly  united.  Then  tie  up  rather  tight  with  worsted 
threads  or  bass,  and  cover  the  tying  material  with  the  clay,  and  over 
the  clay  put  a  covering  of  moss  to  prevent  its  cracking.  Place  in  a 
warm  corner  of  the  greenhouse,  and  in  a  month  or  so,  it  will  be 
necessary  to  loosen  the  bandage  ;  but  it  must  not  be  removed  until 
the  graft  is  securely  united  to  the  stock.  Standard  specimens  are 
readily  produced  by  grafting  upou  stocks  of  the  desired  height,  in  the 
manner  here  advised. 

The  ordinary  propagation  of  geraniums,  by  means  of  cuttings,  is  so 
exceedingly  simple,  that  it  is  only  necessary  to  allude  to  it  to  enable 
me  to  say  that  the  cuttings  should  be  struck  in  July,  and  not  in 
September,  which  is  by  many  growers  supposed  to  be  the  most  suit- 
able period  for  that  work.  Moderately  firm  and  short  jointed  shoots 
are  the  most  suitable  for  making  cuttings,  which  should  average  three 
inches  in  length.  Cut  them  close  under  a  joint,  and  insert  them  in 
a  border  on  a  south  side  of  a  wall,  or  in  the  open.  Water  mode- 
rately when  the  cuttings  are  first  put  in,  to  settle  the  soil  firmly  about 
them ;  but  afterwards,  very  little  water  will  be  required,  unless  the 
weather  is  exceptionally  dry,  until  they  are  rooted.  It  is  a  bad  plan 
to  leave  the  cuttings  until  the  roots  have  attained  a  considerable 
length,  because  in  taking  them  up  the  roots  are  liable  to  be  injured, 
and  a  considerable  check  is  experienced  in  consequence.  To  state 
the  matter  in  the  briefest  manner  possible,  they  should  be  taken  up 
and  put  in  three-inch  pots  immediately  they  have  a  few  roots  of 
about  an  inch  in  length.  Use  fibrous  loam  that  has  become  mellow, 
and  to  which  a  liberal  quantity  of  silver  sand  and  a  moderate  quan- 
tity of  leaf-mould  have  been  added.  Place  them  upon  a  bed  of  coal 
ashes  after  they  are  potted,  and  towards  the  end  of  September 
remove  them  tO'a  shelf  in  the  greenhouse  where  the  light  will  have  free 
access  to  them,  and  where  they  will  not  be  injured  by  being  exposed 
to  an  excess  of  atmospheric  humidity  during  the  winter  months. 

The  following  spring,  if  medium-sized  plants  only  are  required, 
the  young  stock  should  have  the  points  of  the  leading  shoots  piuched 
out,  and  as  soon  as  they  begin  to  grow  again  be  shifted  into  five  or 
six-inch  pots.  But  to  produce  large  specimens,  stop  them  as  above 
advised ;  keep  near  the  glass  in  a  cool  airy  house  or  frame,  and  at 
the  usual  time  plant  them  in  an  open  border  which  has  been  prepared 
hy  the  addition  of  a  dressing  of  leaf-mould,  thoroughly  decayed 
manure,  and  fresh  loam  if  available.  Put  them  at  a  distance  of  eigh- 
teen inches  apart  one  way  and  two  feet  the  other,  and  if  the  space 
can  be  spared,  an  additional  six  inches  each  way  will  be  an  advan- 
tage.    If  everything  goes  on  right,  the  young  growth  will  require 


202  THE  FLGEAL    WOELD   AND    GAEDEN    GUIDE. 

stopping  early  in  August,  and  the  plants  will  be  in  fine  condition  for 
taking  up  and  potting  about  the  second  week  in  September.  At 
this  stage  put  tbem  in  five-inch  pots,  if  they  are  not  too  large,  and 
then  they  can  be  conveniently  shifted  into  eight-inch  pots  in  the 
following  spring ;  this  size  pot  is  mentioned  because  it  is  the  most  suit- 
able for  conservatory  decoration,  and  the  size  in  which  they  are  usually 
exhibited.  At  the  end  of  the  summer  they  will  require  pruning, 
and  if  the  season  is  not  too  far  advanced,  plant  them  out  as  soon  aa 
the  young  shoots,  which  make  their  appearance  after  the  plants  are 
pruned,  are  grown  half-an-inch  in  length.  Take  them  up  and  re-pot 
towards  the  end  of  September,  in  pots  the  same  size  as  that  recom- 
mended for  putting  them  in  the  autumn  previous. 

With  respect  to  general  management,  it  may  be  said  that  weak 
liquid  manure  once  a  week  will  be  beneficial  when  the  pots  are  well 
filled  with  roots,  and  that  the  plants  must  not  be  over-fed,  either  by 
employing  a  large  proportion  of  manure  in  the  compost,  or  by  the  tise 
of  strong  liquid  manure.  When  over-fed,  they  grow  too  luxuriantly 
and  the  leaf  tints  decrease  in  brilliancy,  and  the  Bronze  Zonals  be- 
come nearly  as  green  as  the  ordinary  Green-leaved  Zonals.  During 
the  growing  season  they  require  moderately  liberal  supplies  of  water  ; 
but  from  the  end  of  October  until  the  beginning  of  March,  they  must 
be  kept  rather  dry,  and  during  that  period  no  water  should  be 
allowed  to  touch  the  leaves  of  the  Golden  and  Silver  Zonals ;  and  those 
of  the  other  sections  should  be  kept  as  dry  as  possible.  At  all 
seasons  of  the  year  they  must  be  exposed  to  the  full  light,  except 
during  very  brilliant  sunshine  in  June  and  July,  and  then  the  shad- 
ing materials  must  be  thin.  You  must  also  promote  a  free  circulation 
of  air  amongst  them.  Very  little  training  will  be  required  beyond 
tying  out  the  principal  shoots  regularly,  and  in  bringing  them 
down  in  a  horizontal  manner  to  form  theTouudation,  excepting  to  stop 
any  shoot  that  grows  more  vigorously  than  the  others.  Plants  intended 
for  exhibition  should,  after  the  end  of  April,  be  placed  in  a  frame, 
where  they  can  be  elevated,  so  as  to  be  within  a  few  inches  of  the 
glass  ;  and  in  congenial  weather  the  lights  ought  to  be  elevated  both 
at  the  back  and  front. 

The  finest  eight  varieties  in  each  of  the  three  classes  are — Golden: 
Achievement  (Turner's),  Ealing  Rival,  Edward  Packard  li- 
Howarth  Ash  ton,  Miss  Goring,  Mrs.  Grieve,  Macoelh  (Bell  and 
Thorpe's),  Prince  of  Wales.  Silver:  Clorinda,  Eva  Fish,  Lass  o" 
Gowrie,  Mrs.  Col.  Wilkinson,  Mysterious  Night,  Mrs.  Bousby,  Princess 
Beatrice  (Paul's),  and  Felici/ii.  Bnoxzs  :  Annie  Keelcr,  - 
Douglas,  Earl  Bosshjn,  Heine  Victoria,  Impcratrice  Eugenic,  Princess 
of  Wa&es  (Downie  and  Co's),  W.B.  Morris,  and  Mrs.  John  Lee.  As  all 
the  above  are  expensive,  we  will  make  a  second  selection  to  comprise 
the  cheapest  kinds. 

There  can  be  no  hesitation  in  recommending  the  following  as  the 
best  in  their  respective  classes,  which  can  be  purchased  at  prices  not 
exceeding  five  shillings  each  ;  but  most  of  them  can  be  procured  for 
less  than  half-a-crown  each.  Golden  :  Countess  of  Craven,  Edward 
M-ilner,  Humming  Bird,  Lady  Cullum,  Sophia  Cusack,  Plutarch, 
Queen  Victoria,  Sir  B.  Napier,  and  Victoria  Begincs.     Silver  :   Ban- 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE.  203 

sJiee,  Caroline  Lonaficld,  Mabel  Morris,  Miss  Burdett  Goutts,  Mrs. 
J.  Glutton,  Peri,  Queen  Victoria,  find  Excellent.  Bronze:  Harrison 
Weir,  Danae,  Prima  Donna,  Red  Sing,  Countess  of  Keltic,  Blade 
Knight,  Fairy  Ring,  and  Napoleon  III. 


THE  CULTIVATION   OE  THE  EOSE.— No.  VEX 

|T  is  such  an.  easy  matter  to  make  rosesby  the  dozen,  hundred, 
thousand,  million,  that  the  one  miraculous  tact  in  the 
history  of  the  rose  is  of  this  negative  sort — the  scarcity  of 
roses.  To  be  sure  there  are  plenty  of  roses  in  the  world, 
BUeh  as  starving  standards  that  make  gardens  hideous, 
and  those  who  own  them  open  defamers  to  the  taste  they  profess 
to  promote.  We  may  find  wall  roses,  and  pillar  roses,  and  bush  roses 
of  the  most  obnoxious  character  everywhere,  but  few  well-grown 
roses  ;  few  roseries  containing  anything  like  a  variety  of  roses,  and 
few,  very  few,  extremely  few,  glass  houses  devoted  to  the  delicate 
tea  roses,  which,  if  virtue  were  triumphant,  would  drive  all  the 
geraniums  and  verbenas  clean  out  of  every  plant-house  in  which, 
with  any  prospect  of  success,  a  tea  rose  might  be  grown.  One  good 
reason  for  bad  rose  growing  is  the  prevalence  of  an  extravagant  belief 
in  standard  roses.  They  are  good  enough  indeed,  when  they  are 
good,  but  they  are  so  often  planted  in  the  wrong  place  and  managed 
in  the  wrong  way,  that  very  many  of  the  examples  commonly  met 
with  are  types  of  extreme  ugliness,  and  should  impress  us,  if  we 
knew  no  more  than  they  can  teach,  with  the  idea  that  the  rose  h  the 
very  worst  of  all  our  garden  flowers.  To  correct  this  foolish  faith, 
we  must  continually  urge'the  claims  of  own-root  roses,  and  teach  people 
how  to  obtain  or  make  them.  As  a  majority  of  the  trade  repudiate 
the  notion  of  providing  people  with  own-root  roses,  we  feel  bound  to 
say  that  Messrs.  Lane  and  Sob,  Berkhanrpotead  Nurseries,  long'since 
took  a  hint,  kindly  offered  to  mankind  by  the  Floral  World,  and'set 
about  producing  millions  of  own-root  roses.  Those  who  want  to  buy 
such,  know  henceforth  where  to  go  for  them.  But  what  are  own- 
root  roses  ?  some  will  ask,  and  thereupon  the  whole  question  will 
be  opened  about  roses,  and  their  roots  in  general. 

There  are  many  modes  of  multiplying  roses ;  but  for  all  general 
:;es,  we  need  only  notice  three  of  them.  The  standard  roses 
commonly  met  with,  are  obtained  by  inserting  buds  of  named  roses 
on  the  young  shoots  of  English  briers  in  the  month  of  July.  The 
operation  is  called  "  budding,"  and  constitutes  an  important  mystery 
of  the  rose  craft.  Bush  roses  are  obtained  by  the  budding  process ■ 
but  an  Italian  brier,  known  as  the  manetti  rose,  is  employed  for  the 
purpose.  It  is  a  free-growing,  very  free-rooting,  bluish-leaved  brier 
not  adapted  to  form  standards,  but  well  suited  for  bush  roses  if  the 
buds  are  inserted  very  low  down,  in  fact  immediately  over  the  roots 
of  the  briers,  so  that  when  they  grow  they  will  spring  as  it  were 
from  the  ground,  instead  of  from  the  stems  in  which  they  are 
inserted.      Both  bush  and  standard  roses  may  be  obtained  on  their 


204  THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND   GARDEN   GUIDE. 

own  roots  by  striking  cuttings  or  buds,  or  making  layers  of 
named  roses,  and  tbe  month  of  July  is  the  best  season  in  all  the 
year  for  these  operations.  Whether  standards  or  bushes  are  required, 
is  of  no  consequence  in  the  first  instance,  but  a  matter  of  after  cul- 
ture ;  the  important  matter  is  the  first  step,  and  this  consideration 
brings  us  back  to  the  point  we  had  in  mind  at  the  first  start — how  to 
make  roses  by  the  dozen,  hundred,  thousand,  and  million. 

Brier  roses  are  admirably  adapted  for  deep  loamy  and  heavy  clay 
soils.  In  any  and  every  case  the  ground  intended  to  be  planted 
with  roses,  should  be  well  drained,  and  if  the  subsoil  is  anything 
approximating  to  a  clay  or  deep  rich  loam,  brier  roses  may  be  planted 
with  a  fair  prospect  of  success.  To  make  brier  roses  is  a  simple 
matter  enough,  when  you  know  how,  but  very  mysterious  short  of 
that  point.  In  the  "  Rose  Book  "  ample  instructions  are  given  for 
the  multiplication  of  roses  in  all  possible  ways ;  but  here  we  must 
cut  the  matter  short  by  saying  that  the  art  of  budding  may  be  learnt 
in  five  minutes  on  the  ground  with  the  help  of  the  demonstrations 
and  explanations  of  one  who  is  somewhat  expert  in  performing  it, 
but  will  be  very  slowly  apprehended  by  the  best  written  instructions, 
however  freely  illustrated  and  "  adapted  to  the  meanest  capacity." 

Manetti  roses  are  adapted  for  all  soils  and  situations  ;  but  have 
an  especial  value  for  gravelly,  chalky,  and  worn-out  soils,  because 
of  the  abundance  of  roots  the  manetti  brier  produces,  and  its  con- 
sequent power  of  obtaining  nourishment  in  comparatively  barren 
lands.  When  this  stock  is  employed  for  dwarf  roses,  and  it  is  not 
suited  for  the  production  of  standards,  the  stems  should  be  budded 
near  the  ground ;  indeed  a  little  of  the  earth  should  be  removed  to 
enable  the  operator  to  insert  the  buds  as  low  down  as  it  is  possible 
to  find  a  green  lifting  bark  on  which  he  can  operate  with  a  hope  of 
success. 

Own-root  roses  are,  generally  speaking,  the  most  valuable  of  all. 
They  are  such  as  have  roots  of  their  own,  that  is  to  say  they  are  not 
obtained^  by  budding  or  grafting,  but  by  the  striking  of  buds  or 
cuttings,  or  putting  down  layers  ;  in  each  case  the  rose  making  roots 
for  its  own  sustenance,  instead  of  being  made  to  depend  on  the  roots 
of  briers,  manettis,  or  any  other  stocks. 

Any  one  who  has  had  a  little  experience  in  the  propagation  of 
bedding  plants  ought  to  find  it  easy  and  agreeable  work  to  produce  a 
stock  of  own-root  roses.  Now  is  the  time,  and  there  are  many  modes 
of  procedure  open  to  the  choice  of  the  proficient,  who  will  have  the 
advantage  of  adopting  that  which  the  state  of  the  wood  at  his  disposal 
and  the  conditions  of  the  season  and  his  own  peculiar  requirements 
may  suggest  as  the  best.  The  simplest  of  all  methods  may  be 
described  in  a  few  words  : — 

There  will  be  found  on  all  the  rose-trees  now,  or  say  in  the  mid- 
dle of  July,  a  number  of  plump,  young,  green  shoots  of  the  present 
year.  As  the  seasons  vary,  so  will  the  time  vary  for  taking  cuttings  ; 
and  the  best  rule  that  can  be  given  is,  that  they  should  be  taken 
when  about  half  ripe,  the  wood  being  still  green  but  firm,  for  so  long 
as  it  is  decidedly  soft  and  sappy  it  is  unfit.  The  selected  shoots 
should  be  cut  up  into  lengths  of  about  four  inches  each,  and  the 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN   GUIDE.  205 

lowest  leaf  should  be  removed,  as  shown  by  the  figure  in  the  "  Rose 
Book,"  page  251.  The  soft  tops  of  shoots  should  either  be  cut  off 
and  thrown  away  or  should  be  carefully  struck  in  the  same  way  that 
soft  bedding  plants  are,  in  pans  filled  with  sand,  in  a  rather  strong, 
moist  heat.  But  the  cuttings  we  have  especially  in  view,  consisting 
(say)  of  young  wood  as  thick  as  a  goose  quill,  in  lengths  of  four 
to  six  joints  each,  the  lowest  leaf  only  removed,  will  not  require 
heat,  but  will  quickly  make  root  if  planted  thickly  in  a  bed  of  sandy 
soil,  or  even  in  a  bed  of  coeoanut-fibre,  and  kept  close  and  moist, 
without  ever  being  very  wet,  or  in  a  hot,  stifling  atmosphere. 

To  make  own-root  roses  from  buds  is  not  quite  so  easy  as  to 
make  them  from  cuttings.  But  it  is  not  difficult — at  all  events,  we 
have  never  found  it  difficult — to  raise  roses  in  this  way  and  supply 
the  trade  with  them  by  the  thousand.  The  first  step  is  to  obtain  a 
lot  of  precisely  the  same  sort  of  buds  as  would  be  required  for  bud- 
ding briers.  The  next  thing  is  to  prepare  them  in  the  same  way, 
without  removing  the  wood  or  the  leaves.  The  wood,  indeed,  may 
be  removed,  but  it  is  waste  of  time  to  remove  it;  but  if  the  leaf  is 
removed  the  bud  will  simply  die.  Having  secured  buds  cut  in  the 
fashion  of  shields,  without  removing  the  wood,  and,  above  all  things, 
without  removing  the  leaf  that  each  must  have  when  cut,  plant  these 
buds  firmly  in  pans  filled  with  sand,  or  on  a  bed  of  light  loam  covered 
with  sand  over  a  mass  of  fermenting  material,  or  in  a  common  frame. 
All  the  leaves  must  stand  up  and  be  kept  fresh  by  frequent  sprink- 
ling, but  there  must  be  no  slopping  of  water  amongst  the  buds,  or 
they  will  rot ;  in  fact,  any  excess  of  moisture  will  ruin  the  best 
planned  project  for  propagating  roses  with  equal  certainty  and 
rapidity  with  the  total  abandonment  of  the  cuttings  or  buds  to 
drought,  by  an  act  of  forgetfulness  or  intentional  rose-murder. 

To  propagate  by  layers  is  the  easiest  plan  of  all ;  but  it  is  impos- 
sible to  make  many  roses  in  this  way,  because  two  or  three  are  the 
utmost  number  obtainable  from  a  shoot,  whereas  by  cuttings  or  buds 
a  strong  shoot  will  furnish  material  for  from  twelve  to  twenty  plants. 
But  certainty  may  well  compensate  for  lack  of  quantity  with  many 
readers ;  and  our  advice  to  lovers  of  roses  who  cannot  see  their  way 
clear  to  strike  cuttings,  is  to  make  layers  of  them  in  July  and  August 
in  precisely  the  same  way  as  carnations  and  picotees  are  layered. 
Lastly,  but  not  leastly  :  If  you  will  wait  until  the  middle  of  Septem- 
ber, you  may  then  begin  to  multiply  roses  by  what  we  have  designated 
"the  currant-tree  system."  To  make  short  work  of  the  subject,  we 
may  remark  that  roses  may  be  struck  from  cuttings  precisely  as  cur- 
rant-trees are  struck  ;  but  the  business  should  be  attended  to  while 
the  roses  yet  have  green  leaves  upon  them.  Many  try  this  system 
and  fail.  It  is  all  their  own  fault,  for  they  allow  the  proper  season 
to  pass  by,  and  suddenly  make  a  rush  at  the  propagating  when  the 
season  for  the  work  is  past.  From  the  middle  of  September  to  the 
end  of  October  is  the  proper  time  for  the  practice  of  the  currant-tree 
system  of  multiplying  roses,  and  if  the  work  is  well  done  then,  eighty 
per  cent,  of  the  cuttings  will  root.  People  who  are  blessed  with  a 
spirit  of  patience  and  perseverance  may  continue,  or  begin,  to  put  in 
cuttings  of  roses  in  the  open  ground  or  in  frames  all  through  the 


106 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 


winter  months,  say  from  November  to  February,  and  in  favourable 
seasons  may  be  wonderfully  successful.  But  the  risk  of  loss  is  great, 
and  the  only  argument  in  favour  of  winter  propagation  is,  that  in 
peculiarly  sheltered  spots,  where  an  early  bloom  is  desired,  winter 
pruning  must  be  practised,  and  the  prunings  may  be  turned  to 
account  to  make  stock,  provided  only  that  nature  will  assist  the 
enterprise.  In  the  attempt  to  strike  cuttiugs  after  the  turn  of  the 
year,  a  cold  frame  and  a  bed  of  cocoanut-fibre  and  sand  will  be 
immensely  serviceable.  If  the  steady  bottom  heat  of  a  propagating 
house  can  be  secured,  first  lay  the  cuttings  in  a  horizontal  position, 
just  covered  with  tan  or  fibre,  in  a  warm,  moist  place  for  a  week  or 
so,  to  promote  the  formation  of  the  "  callus,"  and  then  insert  them 
upright  in  sandy  stuff  in  a  temperature  of  about  50  deg.,  a  few 
degrees  more  or  less  being  of  no  consequence,  provided  only  that  the 
bed  is  neither  burning  hot  nor  freezing  cold.  Those  who  love  roses 
will  discover  for  themselves  five  hundred  wars  of  multiplying  them, 
but  as  all  their  ways  will  be  modifications  and  amplifications  of  the 
modes  now  proposed,  we  will  not  occupy  space  in  describing  or 
analysing  them. 

S.  H. 


TEOP^OLUM  TEICOLQUUM. 


BY    raOMiS    TErSSLEE, 
Head  Gardener,  High  Leigh,  Hoddesdon,  Herts. 

l^pp^piUE  lovely  little  tuberous-rooted  Tropcaolum  iricolorum  is 
'PfPj  SlfTi  so  valuable  for  conservatory  decoration  and  so  easily 
jS  managed,  and,  moreover,  takes  up  so  little  room,  that 
I  often  wonder  why  it  is  not  more  extensively  grown  by 
amateur  gardeners.  Some  of  my  amateur  friends,  who 
have  only  a  little  greenhouse,  cultivate  it  very  successfully;  and  when 
in  bloom  the  plants  are  taken  indoors,  where 
they  remain  an  ornament  to  the  drawing-room 
window  for  a  considerable  period.  [Frequently 
it  is  not  met  with  in  such  good  condition  as  it 
otherwise  would  be,  because  it  is  put  by  when  it 
dies  down  in  the  spring,  and  is  quite  forgotten 
until  it  is  too  late  to  re-pot  it  without  injuring 
the  young  growth. 

To  cultivate  the  plant  in  question  success- 
fully, the  tubers  should  be  taken  out  of  the  old 
soil'  some  time  during  July  or  the  early  part  of 
August,  and  be  re-potted  in  the  same  sized  pot 
again  and  a  fresh  compost  used.  The  roots  are  rather  delicate,  and 
a  light,  yet  generous,  compost  should  be  employed ;  but  it  will  be 
found  that  one  prepared  by  well  incorporating  together  equal  parts 
of  light,  fibrous  loam,  turfy  peat,  and  leaf-mould,  and  a  moderate 


Fin;.  1. 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND   GARDEN    GUIDE. 


207 


-iai§i§ 


Tie. 


quantity  of  silver  sand  will  suit  them  admirably.  The  pots  must 
be  clean  and  well  drained,  and  the  tubers  buried  about  two  inches 
below  the  surface.  The  size  of  the  pot  must  be  regulated  by  the 
number  of  the  tubers   put  in  each  ;  but  as  a  guide  to  those  who 

are  unacquainted  with  them,  one  should 
be  put  in  five-inch,  two  in  six-inch, 
three  in  eight-inch,  and  four  in  nine- 
inch  pots,  and  the  last  mentioned  is  the 
largest  size  that  should  be  employed. 
The  soil  must  be  kept  dry  until  they 
start  into  growth,  and  then  sufficient 
water  applied  to  make  the  soil  just 
moist,  and  no  more ;  for  very  little 
water  will  be  required  until  they  have 
made  considerable  progress.  After  Feb- 
ruary, when  the  trellis  is  covered  with 
foliage,  more  liberal  supplies  will  be 
required,  and  an  occasional  dose  of  weak 
liquid  manure  will  be  of  considerable 
service. 

The  trellis  should  be  fixed  in  the 
pots  when:  the  tubers  are  newly  potted, 
but  if  there  are   any  reasons  for   not 
doing  so,  they  must  be  fixed  in  their  proper  position 
before  the  young  growth  has  attained  a  consider- 
able length  ;  otherwise  there  is  a  great  danger  of  its 
becoming  entangled,  and  probably  it  will  be  seriously 
injured. 

The  form  of  the  trellis  must  be  left  to  the  taste 
of  each  cultivator,  and  it  is  of  little  consequence  in 
which  way  the  growth  is  trained,  provided  that  it  is 
nicely  regulated,  and  not  allowed  to  run  together  in 
an  inextricable  mas3. 

With  these  remarks  are  presented  three  different 
forms  of  trellis,  which  will  explain  themselves.  A 
balloon  (Fig.  1)  is  perhaps  the  most  desirable ;  and 
assuredly,  when  covered  with  the  cheerful  green 
foliage,  and  dotted  with  the  scarlet  and  yellow 
flowers,  the  effect  is  most  satisfactory.  Flat  trel- 
lises, of  which  Figs.  2  and  3  are  the  type,  are  very 
well  in  their  way,  and  are  the  most  suitable  for 
windows  or  other  positions  where  there  would  not 
be  room  for  a  balloon.  Small  feathery  sticks,  like  the 
tops  of  pea  sticks,  about  eighteen  inches  in  length, 
inserted  round  the  outside  of  the  pot,  may  be  employed  instead  of 
wire  trainers,  and  the  slender  growth  twining  about  the  aprays  have 
a  most  pleasing  and  picturesque  appearance. 


208 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 


HUME  A    ELEGANS. 


BY   A   HEAD    GARDENER. 


E  all  the  graceful  growing  plants  recommended  for  the 
embellishment  of  the  flower  garden  during  the  summer 
months,  none  can  surpass  in  elegance  of  outline,  or  are 
more  thoroughly  useful  than  the  one  under  notice.  It 
is  in  every  way  suitable  for  the  centre  of  flower  beds, 
vases,  rustic  baskets,  and  also  for  growing  in  pots  or  vases,  for  stand- 
ing in  prominent  positions  by  the  side  of  terrace  and  other  walks. 
Also  when  at  its  best  eminently  suitable  for  conservatory  decoration, 
and  a  few  large  well  grown  specimens  intermixed  with  the  flowering 


lll'MEA.    EEEGANS. 


plants,  with  which  the  conservatory  is  usually  decorated  during  the 
summer  months.  wrill  produce  a  most  unique  effect. 

The  seed  should  be  sown  some  time  between  the  second  week  in 
July  and  the  second  week  in  August,  in  seed  pans  filled  with  a  mix- 
ture of  light  loam,  sand,  and  leaf-mould.  Put  the  seed  pans  in  a  cold 
frame,  or  cover  them  with  a  piece  of  glass  and  put  them  on  the  side 
of  a  wall,  or  wherever  they  will  be  effectually  screened  from  the  sun. 


THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  209 

A  light  sprinkling  of  water  will  be  required  occasionally,  to  maintain 
the  soil  in  a  moderately  moist  condition ;  but  it  must  not  be  satu- 
rated with  water,  or  it  will  become  sour  and  the  seed  will  perish. 
Tilt  the  glass  a  little,  when  a  fair  proportion  of  the  youug  plants  are 
visible ;  and  in  about  a  week  afterwards,  remove  it  altogether.  To 
prevent  over  crowding,  when  the  plants  are  strong  enough,  prick 
them  off  into  pans  or  pots  filled  with  light  compost,  and  from  thence, 
pot  them  off  separately  in  three-inch,  when  about  an  inch  in  height. 
Keep  them  in  a  shady  position,  until  they  have  recovered  from  the 
effects  of  the  shift,  and  then  remove  to  an  open  position,  and  stand 
the  pots  upon  a  bed  of  coal  ashes.  After  the  first  week  in  October, 
considerable  risk  will  be  run,  if  they  remain  in  the  open,  therefore, 
soon  after  the  end  of  September,  remove  them  to  a  frame  where  they 
can  have  an  abundance  of  air  in  mild  weather,  and  protection  from 
frost,  when  required.  The  stock  can  be  wintered  in  a  greenhouse 
very  successfully,  but  the  plants  must  have  the  advantage  of  a  light 
and  airy  position,  and  must  not  be  crowded  up  with  other  plants. 
"When  they  become  drawn  during  the  winter,  the  lower  leaves  usually 
fall  off  in  the  spring,  and  the  plants  present  a  somewhat  unsightly 
appearance  in  consequence.  One  of  the  most  essential  points  is  to 
guard  against  their  becoming  pot-bound,  or  their  suffering  from 
drought ;  but  they  must  not  be  over-potted  or  over-watered.  If  the 
pots,  in  which  they  are  put  from  the  seed  pans,  are  moderately  well 
filled  with  roots  prior  to  the  end  of  October,  shift  them  into  pots 
one  size  larger,  otherwise  do  not  re-pot  them  until  the  middle  of 
January,  and  then  put  them  into  six-inch  pots.  As  it  will  not  be  safe 
or  convenient  to  plant  them  out  before  the  end  of  May,  re-pot  them 
in  April,  and  put  the  largest  sized  plants  into  ten-inch  pots,  and  the 
others  into  eight-inch.  A  few  of  the  smallest  may  be  put  into  pots 
six  inches  in  diameter,  and  they  will  be  found  useful  for  mixing  with 
the  flowering  plants  in  large  rustic  baskets,  or  for  the  centre  of  small 
terra  cotta,  or  stone  vases. 

For  the  characteristic  sketch  of  this  useful  old  plant,  we  have  to 
thank  Messrs.  Hooper  and  Co.,  Central  Avenue,  Covent  Garden,  in 
whose  catalogue  we  observe  that  seed  is  entered  at  sixpence  ;  so 
that  it  may  be  truly  said  to  be  within  the  reach  of  all  classes. 


Propagating  Geraniums  from  Leaves — Mistletoe  or  Wistaiua. — Possessing 
a  plant  of  the  ivy-leaved  geranium  "  L'Elegante,"  I  was  desirous  of  increasing  the 
stock.  I  accordingly  struck  a  number  of  cuttings.  Amongst  these  I  placed  in  the 
cutting-pot,  as  an  experiment,  a  single  leaf,  with  no  portion  of  the  main  stalk  or  a 
bud  attached.  '1  his  leaf  has  struck,  and  has  now  become  a  good-sized  plant.  But 
the  foliage  is  totally  different  from  that  of  the  parent  plant,  which  has  leaves  of  a 
glossy  green  colour,  with  a  narrow  white  margin.  In  the  plant  raised  from  the  leaf 
there  is  no  edging  to  the  leaves,  and  they  are  entirely  green,  with  the  exception  of 
a  dark  bronze  blotch  in  the  centre  of  the  oldest  leaves.  The  plant  has  not  yet 
flowered,  and  I  shall  be  curious  to  see  whether  the  blossom  will  differ  from  that  of 
the  original  plant.  Another  fact  has  recently  come  under  my  notice,  which  is  new 
to  roe,  and  may  possibly  prove  of  interest  to  your  readers.  In  the  garden  of  P.  P. 
Williams,  Esq.,  of  Stoke  House,  near  Tenbury,  I  have  lately  seen  a  spray  of 
mistletoe  growing  upon  a  Weigelia  ;  as  the  branch  upon  which  it  is  growing  is  a  very 
small  one,  it  seems  difficult  to  imagine  how  the  seed  of  the  mistletoe  can  have  found 
a  resting  place  upon  it.  (Rev.)  Seymour  Y.  Williams. 

Whiilun  House,  near  Lndlo%i\ 

VOL.  VI. — NO.  VII.  14 


210  TEE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE, 


THE  BEGINNER  IN  GRAPE-GROWING.— No.  V. 

BY   "WILLIAM    COLE, 

Head  Gardener,  Ealing  Park,  Middlesex. 

PLANTING   AND   PEUNING. 

jjUMMER  planting  has  the  advantage  of  enahling  the 
cultivator  to  replant  vineries  which  have  been  forced 
immediately  the  crop  is  gathered,  and  also  to  plant  in 
houses  erected  in  the  early  part  of  the  season,  and  thus 
avoid  any  loss  of  time.  Excepting  for  the  reasons  here 
stated,  spring  and  autumn  planting  are  preferable  ;  because,  hi  one 
case,  the  vines  have  the  whole  summer  in  which  to  complete  their 
new  growth,  and  in  the  other,  they  have  an  opportunity  of  becoming 
established  in  the  border  before  the  growing  season  commences.  In 
planting  vineries  at  this  season  of  the  year  it  is  important  to  select 
strong,  vigorous  vines,  that  were  either  raised  from  eyes  struck  in 
March  last,  or  else  those  which  were  struck  the  previous  season,  and 
cut  back  during  last  winter,  and  started  in  the  spring  in  a  genial 
growing  temperature.  They  should  be  planted  not  later  than  the 
second  week  of  July  ;  and  it  would  be  better  to  wait  unLil  October, 
and  plant  well-ripened  canes,  than  to  plant  vines  in  full  growth  after 
the  period  here  mentioned.  They  should  be  well  watered  previous  to 
planting,  unless  the  soil  is  sufficiently  moist ;  and  to  enable  the  roots 
to  strike  out  more  readily  into  the  new  soil,  carefully  loosen  those 
near  the  outside,  and  press  the  soil  very  firm  about  them.  Also,  to 
afford  them  all  the  encouragement  possible,  water  them  with  tepid 
water. 

Spring  planting  is  performed  in  much  the  same  manner  as  advised 
for  putting  out  the  vines  in  summer,  and  therefore  the  instructions 
here  given  will  apply  with  equal  force  to  those  planted  in  spring.  It 
is,  however,  important  to  observe,  that  as  the  soil  of  which  the  border 
consists  will  necessarily  be  of  a  low  temperature  in  the  early  spring 
months,  the  vines  should  not  be  grown  in  a  high  temperature,  or 
receive  the  assistance  of  bottom  heat,  or  the  roots  will  probably  be 
chilled  when  the  cold  soil  comes  in  contact  with  them,  and  a  large 
proportion  perish.  The  safest  course  will  be  to  select  moderately- 
strong,  but  well-ripened  canes,  in  eight-inch  pots,  and  cut  them 
down  a  short  time  before  Christmas ;  then,  early  in  February,  put 
them  in  a  temperature  of  about  50  deg.,  and  when  the  young  shoots 
are  about  three  inches  in  length,  put  them  in  pots  two  sizes  larger, 
and  plant  out  in  the  permanent  borders  when  the  pots  are  well  filled 
with  roots,  but  before  the  vines  have  become  pot-bound.  The  house, 
after  the  vines  are  planted,  must  be  kept  rather  close,  and  the  tem- 
perature not  allowed  to  fall  below  60  deg.  It  is  most  important  to 
encourage  the  vines  as  much  as  possible,  and  therefore,  if  required, 
employ  a  little  fire-heat  to  keep  the  temperature  at  the  desired 
height.  A  moist  atmosphere  will  also  be  conducive  to  an  early  and 
vigorous  growth,  and  can  be  easily  provided  by  sprinkling  the  walls, 
and  paths,  and  heating  apparatus  occasionally  with  clear  water. 


THE  FLORAL   WORLD   AND   GARDEN    GUIDE. 


211 


Cold  and  greenhouse  vineries,  and  also  other  vineries,  the 
borders  of  which  are  entirely  outside,  should  be  planted  in  the 
autumn,  and  then  there  will  be  no  danger  of  the  vines  suffering 
from  a  check  of  any  kind.  When  planted  outside,  a  sufficient 
length  of  the  old  cane  can  be  left  to  extend  into  the  house,  so  that 
the  young  growth  will  be  entirely  under  cover.  There  is  not  much 
risk  attached  to  planting  at  any  of  the  above-mentioned  periods, 
provided  the  vines  receive  careful  attention ;  but  the  least  risk  is 
attached  to  planting  during  October  and  November,  and  for  that 
reason  planting  at  that  period  can  be  the  most  highly  recommended 
to  the  notice  of  amateur  cultivators.  A  distance  of  three  or  four 
feet  apart  will  be  suitable  for  ordinary  vineries,  and  if  it 'is  intended 
to  train  the  vines  on  the  extension  system,  they  can  be  removed  to 
make  way  for  the  growth  of  the  permanent  vine. 

Pruning  the  vine  might  now  engage  our  attention  ;  but,  with 
the  aid  of  the  accompanying  diagrams,  there  will  not  be  much 
difficulty  in  understanding  the  following  directions.  Fi«-s.  1  and 
2  show  the  vine  trained  on  the  one  rod  and   spur  system,  and 


Fi<r.  3. 


Fig.  3  illustrates  the  extension  and  the  long-rod  system.  "We  will  not 
pause  to  inquire  into  the  advantages  and  disadvantages  of  the  two 
systems,  for  the  reasona  stated  in  a  former  article,  but  will  at  once 
pass  on  to  describe  the  manner  in  wdiieh  vines  trained  on  each 
system  are  pruned.  -Fig.  1  is  supposed  to  represent  a  vine  after  it 
has  completed  its  first  season's  growth,  and  has  shed  its  leaves; 
although  vines  will,  if  they  do  well,  attain  a  length  of  fifteen  or 
twenty  feet  the  first  season,  they  should  be  trained  under  the 
rafters,  as  shown  in  Fig.  2,  or  in  the  centre  of  the  lights.  The 
wires  should  in  both  cases  be  fixed  lengthwise  of  the  house,  at  a 
distance  of  about  twelve  inches  from  the  glass,  to  admit  of  the  full 
development  of  the  foliage  without  its  touching  the  glass.  JNo 
stopping  whatever  is  required  during  the  first  summer  season,  until 
the  top  of  the  rafter  is  reached,  and  then  the  terminal  point  should 
be  pinched  out,  and  the  laterals  which  push  from  the  axils  of  the 
leaves  allowed  to  grow  unchecked,  and  it  will  be  well  to  bear  in 
mind  that  it  is  very  undesirable  to  incur  the  risk  of  starting  the 
main  buds.  Some  time  during  the  winter  season,  but  not  later  than 
the  middle  of  February,  cut  the  canes  back  to  just  above  the  lowest 
bud,  and  carefully  guard  against  the  shoot  which  starts  therefrom 
being  injured  in  any  way,  and  fix  a  stake  by  which  it  can  be  sup- 


212  THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 

ported  until  it  reaches  the  roof.  Vines  which  are  strong,  and 
planted  behind  pipes,  should  be  cut  back  to  one  bud  above  the  level 
of  pipes,  and  all  the  growth  which  starts  from  all  the  lower  buds 
must  be  rubbed  of  before  it  exceeds  two  inches  in  length,  otherwise 
it  will  rob  the  leading  shoot  of  its  proper  share  of  nourishment. 
The  following  winter  season,  shorten  the  canes  to  about  one-half, 
and  at  the  third  winter  prune  them  to  about  three-fourths  of  their 
length.  Those  trained  to  roofs  not  exceeding  twelve  feet  will  only 
require  shortening  about  half  way  the  second  winter.  If  they  do 
well,  the  canes  will  be  strong  enough  to  admit  of  their  being  left 
their  full  length  the  winter  following. 

The  extension  system  consists  in  having  a  sufficient  number  of 
rods  from  one  vine  to  entirely  fill  the  house ;  or  two  vines,  if  a  span 
roof.  The  centre  rod  should  be  taken  up  the  first  season  ;  those  on 
eacb  side,  the  second  season,  and  so  on,  until  the  house  is  filled ; 
if,  however,  the  vine  is  not  so  vigorous  as  it  should  be,  one  rod  only 
must  be  taken  up  each  season.  They  must  be  shortened  back  in  the 
same  manner  as  those  trained  on  the  single-rod  system,  and,  of 
course,  trained  perfectly  straight. 

Some  growers  prefer  the  long-rod  system,  which  consists  in 
keeping  up  a  constant  succession  of  young  canes,  and  have  a  double 
set — the  second  set  being  represented  by  the  dotted  lines  in  Fig.  3. 
After  a  sufficient  number  of  rods,  as  described  above,  are  obtained, 
a  young  shoot  is  trained  up  between  each,  and  in  the  winter  follow- 
ing, the  old  rods,  or  those  upon  which  the  fruit  was  borne,  are  taken 
off  first  above  the  bottom  spur,  and  the  following  season  a  young 
one  is  trained  up  to  take  its  place.  The  rods,  represented  by  the 
dotted  lines,  ai'e  left  their  full  length  and  allowed  to  carry  a  crop  of 
grapes  the  following  summer ;  and  in  the  winter  following  are 
in  their  turn  removed,  and  the  young  shoots  which  spring  from 
the  base  of  those  headed  down,  are  dealt  with  in  the  same  way  the 
following  season. 

The  management  of  the  side  branches,  or  fruiting  spurs  as 
they  are  usually  called,  must  now  engage  our  attention  ;  and  it  is  to 
be  hoped  the  directions  here  given  will  be  clearly  understood.  As 
a  rule,  the  spurs  should  be  from  twelve  to  fifteen  inches  apart  on 
each  side  of  the  cane ;  it  will  therefore  be  necessary  to  rub  off  in 
the  spring  every  other. shoot  on  each  side.  To  prevent  the  possi- 
bility of  a  misunderstanding  upon  this  point,  let  us  for  a  moment 
suppose  the  base  of  the  vine  represented  in  Fig.  1  to  be  that  part  of 
the  cane  at  the  bottom  of  the  rafter.  On  the  left  hand  are  six  buds, 
and  on  the  right,  five  ;  therefore,  the  second,  fourth,  aud  sixth  buds 
should  be  removed  from  the  former,  and  the  second  and  fourth  from 
the  latter ;  stop  the  side  branches  at  two  joints  above  the  bunch, 
and  the  laterals  which  push  from  the  terminal  buds  of  the  latter  at 
the  first  joint.  At  the  winter  pruning,  cut  the  side  branches  back 
to  within  two  buds  of  the  base  ;  and  when  the  young  growth  is 
sufficiently  advanced  to  enable  the  cultivator  to  determine  which 
of  the  two  shoots  is  the  strongest,  the  weakest  must  be  rubbed  off". 
"When  the  difference  in  the  strength  is  trifling,  the  shoot  nearest  the 
main-rod  must  be  left,  for  it  is  desirable  to  keep  the  spurs  as  short 


THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE.  213 

as  possible.  In  giving  the  above  directions,  it  is  supposed  that  fruit 
is  produced  at  each  shoot;  but  as  the  strongest  do  nob  always  carry- 
fruit,  due  regard  must  be  paid  in  the  removal  of  the  young  growth 
to  secure  a  regular  crop  all  over  the  house  ;  but  one  shoot  only  must 
be  left  to  each  spur,  and  not  more  than  one  bunch  of  fruit  to  each. 
The  training  and  pruning  of  outdoor  vines  must  be  deferred  until 
their  planting  and  general  management  is  dealt  with. 


OUR  ORNAMENTAL-LEAVED  PLANTS  EOR  TABLE 
DECORATION. 

BV     J.     W.     SILVER, 
Head  Gardener,  The  Laurels,  Taunton,  Somerset-. 

jjLANTS  adapted  for  the  embellishment  of  the  dinner 
table  have  received  such  a  large  share  of  attention 
within  the  last  few  years,  that  I  am  induced  to  make 
a  few  remarks  on  some  of  the  most  useful,  with  the  hope 
that  they  will  be  acceptable  to  readers  of  the  Eloral 
World.  A  list  of  the  most  desirable  kinds  will  also  be  given  as  we 
proceed,  which  on  this  occasion  must  be  confined  to  plants  re- 
markable for  their  beautiful  foliage,  for  it  would  take  up  too  much 
space  to  deal  with  both  fine  foliage  and  flowering  plants  in  one 
number. 

The  principal  conditions  to  be  borne  in  mind  in  the  cultivation 
of  plants  for  the  dinner  table,  are  to  have  them  as  dwarf  and 
compact  as  possible,  to  keep  the  foliage  of  the  brightest  hue 
possible,  and  also  to  grow  them  in  as  small  pots  as  circumstances 
will  admit.  The  size  of  the  pots  should  range  from  three  to  six,  or, 
at  the  outside,  eight  inches  in  diameter ;  but  plants  in  five-inch 
pots  will  be  of  the  greatest  value,  as  they  can  be  employed  where 
the  larger  pots  would  be  useless. 

One  of  the  most  useful  and  easily  cultivated  classes  of  fine  foliage 
plants  are  the  best  of  the  new  Coleua,  for  when  well  grown  they  are 
so  remarkably  effective  that  for  table  decoration  their  value  cannot 
well  be  exaggerated.  They  should  in  fact  be  grown  extensively, 
because  so  little  labour  and  skill  is  necessary  to  produce  handsome 
specimens.  The  method  pursued  here  with  very  successful  results  is  to 
insert  seven  or  eight  cuttings  in  afive-inch  pot,and  place  them  inalittle 
extra  warmth,  and  shelter  until  well  rooted.  They  are  then  placed  on 
a  shelf  in  the  full  sun,  wherethey  grow  rapidly,  and  in  a  few  weeks,  with 
ordinary  attention,  become  handsome  specimens,  with  foliage  of  the 
richest  colour.  This  mode  of  culture  is  preferable  to  any  I  hav3  yet 
tried,  for  a  few  weeks  only  are  required  for  the  production  of  well- 
developed  specimens.  Attention  must  be  given  to  watering,  because 
if  the  soil  is  allowed  to  become  very  dry,  they  invariably  lose  thejr 
bottom  leaves  and  become  unsightly ;  plants  from  six  to  ten  inches 
in  height  are  the  most  effective.  The  tops  of  plants  which  have 
grown  too  tall  may  be  taken  off"  and  inserted  in   cutting  pots,  as 


214  THE  FLORAL   WORLD  AND   GARDEN   GUIDE. 

advised  above,  and  by  this  means  a  regular  succession  can  be  kept 
up.  A  temperature  -varying  from  55°  to  GO"  must  be  maintained 
during  the  winter  months,  but  they  grow  freely  in  the  greenhouse 
during  the  summer.  The  best  varieties  for  the  dinner  table  are, 
Albeit  Victor,  Queen  Victoria,  Baroness  Rothschild,  Princess  Moycd, 
and  Bulce  of  Edinburgh. 

Iresines  nest  claim  our  attention,  and  the  most  useful  is 
undoubtedly  I.  Lindenii,  which  is  now  universally  acknowledged  to 
be  the  best  dark-leaved  plant  grown  for  bedding  purposes.  It  is 
managed  here  in.  the  same  manner  as  the  Coleus,  with  the  single 
exception  that  it  requires  stopping  once,  and  the  side-shoots  allowed 
to  break,  before  being  introduced  to  the  table.  I.  acuminata  and 
I.  Herbslii  may  be  used  in  the  same  way,  but  they  are  by  no  means 
so  neat  in  growth  or  effective  in  appearance  as  the  lirst  named. 
The  compost  used  here  both  for  Iresines  and  Coleus  consists  of  one- 
third  each  of  loam,  peat,  and  leaf-mould,  well  incorporated  together. 
To  this  a  liberal  proportion  of  sand  must  be  added. 

Dracjenas. — All  the  best  sorts  are  more  or  less  useful,  but  the 
green  kinds  are  not  so  effective  as  those  with  dark  highly  coloured 
foliage,  which  must,  however,  be  grown  on  quickly,  and  used  when 
from  ten  to  twelve  inches  in  height.  To  propagate  a  stock  of  young 
plants,  it  is  a  good  plan  to  cut  down  an  old  plant,  and  then  cut  the 
stem  up  into  one-inch  lengths,  and  allow  the  wounds  to  dry  before 
being  inserted  in  the  pots  or  pans.  A  large  pan,  filled  with  any 
light  sandy  compost ;  each  piece  will  generally  produce  from  two  to 
three  shoots,  which  may  be  taken  off  when  large  enough  (say  about 
two  inches  in  length),  and  put  singly  in  small  pots.  If  unable  to 
cut  down  an  old  plant,  turn  one  out  of  the  pot,  and  after  removing 
the  potsherds,  take  off  the  fleshy  parts  of  the  roots  with  a  sharp 
knife  and  insert  them  in  single  pots,  and  place  in  a  brisk  bottom 
heat.  In  a  few  weeks  they  produce  young  shoots,  and  make  much 
better  plants  than  those  raised  from  stem  cuttings.  The  best  three 
of  the  older  dark-leaved  kinds  are — Terminalis,  Terminalis  grandis, 
and  Cooperii ;  and  the  two  best  green  kinds  are  Veitchii  and  Gracilis. 
Indivisa  is  also  very  good,  and  may  be  grown  instead  of  Veitchii  if 
that  kind  cannot  be  afforded. 

Acaltpha  tricolor  is  most  charming  for  the  table.  It 
requires  a  stove  temperature,  and  it  is  necessary  to  keep  it  as  near 
the  glass  as  possible,  and  also  well  exposed  to  the  sun,  to  bring  out 
its  bright  crimson  and  red  variegation ;  young  plants  on  single 
stems  are  the  most  desirable.  The  best  compost  is  prepared  by 
incorporating  together  two- thirds  fibry  peat,  one-third  good  turfy 
loam,  and  a  liberal  proportion  of  silver  sand  to  keep  the  soil  open 
and  porous. 

Having  disposed  of  the  most  useful  kinds  with  dark  leafage, 
those  with  golden  variegation  next  claim  attention,  foremost  among 
which  stand  the 

Crotons. — These  are  certainly  unsurpassable,  for  the  table,  when 
well  grown,  and  richly  coloured.  The  cuttings  should  be  struck  early  in 
the  spring,  before  the  old  plants  start  into  growth.  They  should  be 
inserted  singly  in  the  smallest  size  pots,  and  placed  in  a  brisk  bottom 


THE   FLORAL    WOULD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE.  215 

heat.  The  most  suitable  compost  for  filling  the  cutting  pots  is  sifted 
peat  and  leaf-mould  in  equal  proportions,  and  plenty  of  silver  sand. 
Water  carefully  until  the  cuttings  are  well  rooted.  Shift  into  five- 
inch  pots  as  soon  as  the  pots  are  filled  with  roots,  and  place  close  to 
the  glass,  where  they  can  have  the  fullest  amount  of  light  and  sun. 
Keeping  them  near  the  glass  is  of  immense  importance,  for  without 
light  the  foliage  becomes  green  and  ineffective.  Allow  me  here  to 
state  the  compost  in  all  subsequent  shifts  must  be  used  much 
rougher  than  advised  above,  and  one-third  turfy  loam  added.  There 
are  now  a  large  nu'mberof  Crotons,  all  of  which  are  useful ;  but  for  this 
purpose  I  shall  recommend  Variegatum,  August  i folium,  Interruptum, 
ILillkumm,  and  Veitchti. 

Sancuezia  hoblis  vaeiegata  is  exceedingly  handsome,  and 
where  the  convenience  exists  it  should  be  grown  in  quantity.  The 
cuttings  can  be  struck  at  any  time  during  the  spring  and  summer 
months,  and  it  is  desirable  to  grow  them  on  quickly  to  obtain  good 
plants.  Specimens  with  single  stems  are  far  preferable;  the 
directions  given  for  developing  the  colour  of  the  Coleus  apply  to  the 
Sanchezia  with  equal  force.  Unless  grown  in  a  light  position  and 
exposed  to  the  sun,  the  leaves  will  become  green  and  comparatively 
useless.  Pot  in  a  mixture  of  equal  parts  of  leaf-mould,  peat,  and 
loam,  with  sufficient  silver  sand  to  make  the  whole  gritty  to  the 
hand. 

Ananassa  saliva  yabiegata. — The  variegated  pine,  in  its 
young  state,  is  of  all  the  plants  above  mentioned  one  of  the  most 
useful  for  the  table.  Under  the  influence  of  artificial  light, 
the  colouring  is  remarkably  bright  and  attractive,  which,  added  to 
its  graceful  habit,,  renders  it  eminently  desirable.  It  requires 
keeping  near  the  glass,  as  a  free  exposure  to  the  light  is  necessary  to 
bring  out  the  rich  leaf-tints  for  which  it  is  remarkable.  A  compost  of 
two  parts  silky  loam  and  equal  parts  of  well-decayed  cow  manure 
and  sand,  will  grow  it  to  perfection.  Care  must  be  taken  to 
prevent  the  plants  receiving  a  check  of  any  kind,  and  thus  guard 
against  their  fruiting  prematurely,  because  they  are  of  no  use  ex- 
cepting for  propagating  purposes  after  they  have  fruited. 


KEEPING  LATE  GRAPES. 

BY   WILLIAM    TEMPLE, 
Head  Gardener,  Balbirnie,  Markinch,  N.B. 

j'T  the  first  meeting  of  the  Eoyal  Horticultural  Society, 
held  at  South  Kensington  in  May  and  June,  Mr.  Tem- 
ple, the  able  head- gardener  at  Balbirnie,  exhibited 
specimens  of  Lady  Downe's  Seedling  Grape  in  a  most 
excellent  state  of  preservation,  the  berries  being  plump 
and  the  flavour  full  and  rich.  The  method  adopted  to  preserve  them 
is  exceedingly  simple,  and  worth  the  attention  of  amateurs  who  have 
to  winter  a  large  proportion  of  their  bedding  plants  in  the  Vinery. 


216  THE  FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

Thick-skinned  sorts  only,  such  as  Kempsey  Alicante  and  Lady 
Downe's,  can  be  kept  so  late  in  the  season  as  the  examples  here 
referred  to ;  but  Black  Hamburgh  and  other  thin-skinned  varieties 
may  be  kept  much  longer  suspended  in  a  dry  room,  with  the  ends  of 
the  stems  inserted  in  bottles  of  water,  than  they  can  be  preserved  in 
houses  filled  with  plants.  Grapes  grown  in  ground  vineries  may  also 
be  kept  for  a  considerable  period  in  the  same  manner.  In  a  com- 
munication received  from  Mr.  Temple,  the  mode  of  keeping  late 
grapes  at  Balbirnie  is  described  as  follows : — 

"The  Lady  Downe's  grapes  referred  to  were  ripe  in  August,  cut 
in  November  (I  think  some  earlier  and  some  later,  but  these  were 
among  the  earliest).  The  temperature  would  average  from  40  to 
50  deg.,  but  sometimes  down  nearly  to  the  freezing  point.  They 
were  kept  in  the  dark.  The  structure  in  which  they  were  kept  is  a 
common  fruit-room,  where  apples,  pears,  seed-potatoes,  etc.,  were 
crammed.  The  water  in  the  bottles  was  never  changed  entirely,  but 
a  little  was  added  once  or  twice.  A  few  pieces  of  charcoal  were 
placed  in  many  of  the  bottles,  though  some  had  none,  but  there  was 
no  difference  in  keeping,  taste,  etc.  The  water  was  partly  rain  and 
spring  water  from  a  tank  used  to  catch  all  the  waste  water.  The 
ends  of  the  wood  above  the  bunch,  about  half  an  inch  long,  were 
rubbed  with  Thompson's  Styptic.  The  fruit-room  was  frequently 
fumigated  with  sulphur,  a  practice  we  perform  to  keep  insects  and 
mice  from  establishing  their  quarters.  About  120  bunches  were  thus 
kept,  and  I  am  not  aware  that  any  of  them  decayed,  except  a  few 
berries  in  April  on  some  very  close  bunches.  I  attribute  their  keep- 
ing so  sound  to  thorough  ripening  early  in  the  season,  firing  hard, 
with  top  and  front  air  on  a  month  or  six  weeks  after  the  fruit  was 
apparently  '  finished.'  We  have  practised  this  system  for  five  years 
past  with  the  same  results,  and  have  no  difficulty  in  keeping  White 
and  Black  Muscats  in  good  condition  till  March.  We  had  some  this 
season  till  the  4th  of  that  month,  which  were  cut  early  last  August. 
If  you  should  desire  any  grapes  sent  a  month  hence  or  later,  probably 
I  may  be  able  to  do  so,  as  we  have  a  quantity  still  in  a  small  shed, 
which  are  finer  than  those  sent.  The  latest  date  to  which  we  have 
kept  Lady  Downe's  in  good  condition  was  June  10th.  We  exhibited 
a  bunch  three  years  ago  on  that  date.  They  were  coloured  in  the 
July  of  the  previous  year." 


Propagating  Zonal  Pelargoniums. — J\T.T2.— "The  best  and  surest  way''  to 
propagate  Zonal  Pelargoniums  is  to  strike  the  cuttings  in  the  open  border  some 
time  during  July,  August,  and  September.  Select  au  open,  sunny  situation,  and  if 
the  soil  is  at  all  heavy,  add  a  little  light,  sandy  soil,  such  as  the  refuse  of  the 
potting-bench  or  road-scrapings,  before  inserting  the  cuttings.  Dibble  the  cuttings 
in  the  border  at  a  distance  of  about  two  inches  apart,  and  after  giving  them  one 
moderately  liberal  watering  to  settle  the  soil  about  them,  they  should  not  be  watered 
artificially  until  they  are  taken  up  and  put  in  pots,  un 'ess  the  weather  happens  to 
be  very  dry,  and  then  a  moderate  watering  once  a  week  will  be  of  material  assist- 
ance. They  should  be  put  in  pots  immediately  they  are  struck,  for  when  allowed 
to  remain  until  firmly  established  in  the  border  they  suffer  a  severe  check  when 
taken  up.  Liberal  waterings  and  a  confined  atmosphere  are  the  chief  causes  of 
the  cuttings  of  these  plants  decaying  at  the  base. 


THE  FLORAL    WORLD   AND   GARDEN    GUIDE. 


217 


NEW  PLANTS. 


YACINTHUS  caudicans  (Eef.  Bot.,  174).— A  splendid  greenhouse 
bulb  with  flower-scape  four  feet  long,  bearing  fifteen  to  twenty  pure 
white  llowers.  It  is  a  native  of  South  Africa,  and  one  of  the  finest 
amongst  the  many  fine  plants  introduced  from  that  country. 

Statice  spicata. — This  beautiful  annual  species  was  described  at 
page  190,  and  now,  thanks  to  the  kindness  of  Messrs.  Hooper  and  Co.,  of  the 
Central  Avenue,  Covent  Garden  Market,  W.(J.,  we  are  enabled  to  present  our  readers 


W^ 


Statice  spicata. 


^ 


with  a  characteristic  figure  of  a  complete  plant.  It  appears  that  this  species  is  not 
strictly  new,  having  been  introduced  into  this  country  as  far  back  as  1818,  but, 
like  many  other  good  tilings,  has  from  some  cause  or  other  gone  out  of  cultivation, 
and  we  hail  its  re-introduction  with  a  considerable  amount  of  pleasure. 

Hyacixthus  princets  (Eef.  Bot.,  175). — A  handsome  greenhouse  bulb  with 
nodding  greenish-white  flowers.  This  is  a  native  of  the  same  South  African  region 
as  the  foregoing. 

Callipsyche  aurantiaca  (Eef.  Bot.  167). — A  handsome  warm  greenhouse 
amaryllid  with  golden  yellow  flowers. 

Callypsyche  mirabilis  {Ref.  Bot.  168). — A  curious  amaryllid  bearing 
greenish -yellow  flowers. 


218 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND   GARDEN    GUIDE. 


& 


rfl 


■  y 


Acer  palmatum  crispum  (IUust.  Sort.,  43). — A  beautiful  maple,  with  elegant 
narrow-lobed  leaves  and  red  leafstalks. 

Quercus  striata  (IUust.  Sort ,  44). — A  beautiful  oak,  the  leaves  of  which  are 
marked  with  alternate  bars  of  green  and  yellow. 

■  Odontoglossum  nevadense  (IUust.  Sort.,  45). — A  fine   species  with   large 
flowers  of  a  fine  brown  colour  edged  with  yellow  ;  the  lip  white. 

Acer  palmatum  ornatum  (IUust.  Sort., ^S).— A  beautiful  maple,  with  deeply- 
divided  blood-red  leaves. 

Mimulus  Tilikgi. — A  veiy  pretty  and  distinct  Mimulus,   which  inhabits  the 

Sierra  Nevada,  California, 
■where  it  was  discovered  by 
Dr.  Tilling,  who  introduced 
it  to  this  country.  It  differs 
from  the  Mimulus  already 
in  cultivation  in  this  coun- 
try, and  is  most  easily 
grown  ;  and  large  flowering 
specimens  can  be  produced  in 
a  surprisingly  short  space  of 
time.  It  is  of  erect  growth, 
and  attains  a  height  of  nearly 
three  feet,  with  numerous 
branching  stems,  terminating 
with  spikes  of  clear  yellow 
flowers  of  the  shape  shown 
in  the  accompanying  illus- 
tration, for  which  we  .are 
indebted  to  Messrs.  Hooper 
and  Co. 

New  Caladiums  (IUust. 
Sort.,  37). — Senry  Uoucet 
has  a  grand  fiery  leaf 
almost  wholly  overspread 
with  sanguineous  carmine, 
the  extreme  margin  only 
being  green.  Eloile  d'ar- 
fpnf  is  most  elegantly 
marked  with  white  veins, 
shading  off  to  grey  bands, 
beyond  which  the  surf -co 
is  delicately  powdered  with 
white  on  a  full  dee])  green 
ground.  Jules  Puizeys  is 
extremely  elegant  and  pecu- 
liarly showy.  The  midrib 
and  principal  veins  are  of 
a  brilliant  crimson  colour  ; 
the  interspaces  powdered 
with  white  and  blotched  with 
crimson  on  a  ground  of  deep 
green. 
Todea  Africana  (IUust.  Sort.,  38).— A  tolerably  good  figure  of  a  well-known 
fern. 

Odontoglossum  ouoratum,  v.  latimaculatum  (IUust.  Sort.,  39). — A  pleasing 
variety,  prettily  spotted. 

Aristolochia  clypeata  (IUust.  Sort.,  40). — A  magnificent  species  with  im- 
mense flowers,  heavily  spotted  chocolate-brown  on  a  ground  of  pale  brownish  buff. 

Camellia  Madame  de  Cannart  d'Hamule  (IUust.  Sort.,  41).— The  flowers 
are  flesh-coloured,  with  a  tinge  of  pink  at  the  base  of  every  petal.  If  judged  by  the 
figure  this  is  a  valueless  variety. 

Masbevallia  Lindeni  (IUust.  Sort.,  42). — A  good  figure  of  this  interesting 
and  comparatively  unknown  orchid. 


,r. 


—'    J 


r 


Mimulus  Tiling:  (Flowering  Branch). 


THE   FLORAL   WOULD   AKD    GARDEN    GUIDE.  219 


THE   GAKDEN   GUIDE  FQK  JULY. 

Flower  Garden. — This  month  i3  a  capital  time  for  propagating 
many  herbaceous  plants.  Young  side-shoots  of  Antirrhinums,  Pent- 
stemons,  and  Phloxes  will  root  freely  under  a  hand-glass,  with  the 
needful  attention  of  watering  and  shading.  Polyanthus  that  are 
wished  to  be  increased  may  be  taken  up  and  divided  early  in  the 
month.  Shorten  the  tap  roots,  and  replant  at  a  distance  of  about  a 
foot  apart  each  way.  These  plants  do  best  in  loam,  leaf-mould,  and 
cow-dung.  A  shady  position  is  the  most  suitable,  and  the  plants 
should  have  two  or  three  good  wateriugs  after  they  are  planted. 
Seed  must  be  sown  as  soon  as  possible.  The  Eose-beds  must_  be 
looked  over  frequently,  and  all  suckers  removed.  The  old  flowering 
shoots  should  also  be  cut  back,  and  the  trees  have  a  few  good  closes 
of  liquid  manure  to  aid  in  the  production  of  a  good  autumn  bloom. 
Budding  must  be  proceeded  with  ;  if  the  stocks  do  not  run  freely,  a 
thorough  watering  will  generally  start  them.  The  evening  is  the 
best  time  for  budding.  Towards  the  end  of  the  month  the  wood  will 
be  in  proper  order  for  making  cuttings  of  strong  half-ripened  shoots 
cut  into  pieces  of  three  joints  each.  The  bottom  leaf  should  be 
removed,  and  the  cutting  inserted  firmly  in  a  bed  of  light,  sandy  stuff, 
over  a  gentle  hot-bed,  where  it  will  root  freely.  Cuttings  will  also 
root  well  in  a  frame  placed  upon  an  elevated  bed  of  soil,  without 
bottom-heat,  but  not  so  quickly  as  with  that  assistance.  The  frame 
must  be  kept  close,  and  shaded  until  the  cuttings  are  nicely  callused. 
Evergreens  may  now  be  pruned,  and  their  growth  regulated.  The 
annuals  that  are  past  their  best  should  be  cleared  away,  to  prevent 
the  garden  having  an  untidy  appearance.  Where  it  is  intended  to 
save  seed  from  any  of  the  herbaceous  plants,  it  is  a  good  plan  to 
cut  the  old  flower-spikes  directly  the  lower  seed-pods  begin  to  ripen, 
and  stick  them  in  pots  filled  with  wet  sand,  and  place  indoors  over  a 
large  sheet  of  paper,  to  catch  the  seed.  When  left  on  the  plants 
until  the  whole  of  the  seed  is  ripe,  three-parts  of  it  will  be  scattered 
to  the  winds  and  lost.  Where  it  is  intended  to  increase  the  stock  of 
Pinks,  Picotees,  and  Carnations,  propagation  must  be  commenced  in 
the  early  part  of  the  month,  either  by  pipings  or  layers. 

Kitchen  Garden. — Anything  that  is  in  need  of  water  should 
have  sufficient  to  soak  the  ground  for  a  considerable  depth.  Surface 
watering  does  more  harm  than  good  ;  it  attracts  the  roots  to  the 
surface,  where  they  are  more  exposed  to  atmospheric  influences  than 
before.  Hundreds  of  crops  were  destroyed  last  year  through  improper 
waterings.  Unless  labour  is  abundant,  and  the  time  can  be  spared 
to  follow  it  up,  leave  watering  alone.  Tomatoes  ought  to  be  stopped 
just  above  the  fruit,  and  be  well  pinched  in,  if  plenty  of  fine  fruit  is 
expected.  Continue  to  plant  out  all  the  winter  stuff  as  fast  as 
possible;  the  evening  is  the  best  time.  Keep  the  Celery  well  watered, 
and  plant  out  the  main  crop.  Let  every  pod  be  removed  from  both 
Runners  and  Dwarf  Beans  directly  they  arc  large  enough  for  gather- 
ing.    Sow  the  main  crop  of  Turnips,  and  successional  supplies  of 


220  THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

Lettuce,  Radish,  Spinach,  Small  Salad,  a  few  rows  of  early  Peas,  and 
a  bed  of  Stadtholder  Cauliflowers.  The  principal  crop  of  Cauliflowers 
and  French  Beans  in  bearing  will  receive  considerable  help  from  a 
thick  coat  of  short  litter  or  other  mulching  material  about  the  roots. 
Conservatory. — Hard-wooded  plants  that  flowered  late,  and 
were  kept  indoors  to  finish  the  growth,  should  go  out  of  doors  now. 
Particular  care  must  be  paid  to  plant's  standing  out  of  doors.  If 
allowed  to  suffer  from  drought  at  this  season,  next  year's  bloom  will 
be  impaired.  Quite  two-thirds  of  the  cases  of  the  Camellias  drop- 
ping their  buds  iu  the  early  part  of  the  winter  arises  from  the  plants 
becoming  dust  dry  at  the  roots  "now  and  then,"  between  this  time 
and  September,  and  the  other  third  arises  from  the  pots  being  in- 
effectually drained,  and  the  soil  gettiug  sour  in  consequence. 
Frequently,  specimen-plants  suffer  through  the  pots  being  placed  on 
the  ground  without  any  protection  underneath  from  worms.  This 
should  be  looked  to,  and  the  pots  set  on  three  small  pots,  or  a  good 
thickness  of  coal-ashes  placed  underneath.  Roses  in  pots  should  be 
plunged,  to  prevent  the  soil  drying  up  quickly,  and  rendering  a  lot 
of  watering  necessary.  All  soft-wooded  stuff  growing  freely,  such 
as  Petunias,  Fuchsias,  Zonal  Pelargoniums,  Browallias,  etc.,  should 
be  encouraged  with  liquid  manure  until  they  come  into  flower. 
Pelargoniums  that  have  ripened  their  young  wood  nicely  must  be 
cut  back  to  two  or  three  eyes  at  once,  and  kept  rather  dry  until  the 
buds  push. 

Forcing. — Keep  Muscats  going  with  a  little  fire-heat  in  unfavour- 
able weather.  In  the  late  houses,  where  the  grapes  are  swelling,  the 
laterals  must  be  kept  stopped  ;  but  where  they  are  stoning,  a  consider- 
able extension  of  laterals  can  be  allowed.  The  earlier  houses,  from 
which  the  crop  has  been  gathered,  must  be  thrown  open  as  wide  as 
possible,  and  the  laterals  allowed  to  grow  freely  for  a  short  time,  to 
help  to  swell  up  the  buds.  The  foliage  of  Peaches  and  Nectarines 
must  be  washed  with  the  syringe  frequently  after  the  crop  is  gathered, 
and  all  the  air  possible  admitted.  Cucumbers  and  Melons  must  be 
kept  well  thinned  out;  the  former  should  be  stopped  regularly  at 
one  joint  beyond  the  fruit.  The  fruit-bearing  laterals  of  the  Melons 
must  be  allowed  to  grow,  and  the  others  nipped  off  as  fast  as  they 
make  their  appearance.  Keep  both  well  supplied  with  water,  and 
give  air  early  in  the  morning,  to  afford  the  foliage  a  chance  of  becoming 
dry  before  the  sun  acts  powerfully  upon  it. 

Fruit  Garden. — Thin,  stop,  and  train  the  young  growth  of  wall 
and  other  fruit  trees.  Thin  out  the  fruit  before  it  gets  too  large, 
and  robs  that  intended  to  remain.  Proceed  with  layering  Strawberry- 
runners,  both  for  forcing  and  making  new  beds.  Plants  layered  in 
pots,  and  planted  out  when  well  rooted  in  thoroughly  trenched 
ground,  will  bear  well  next  summer. 

Pits  and  Frames. —  Sow  Herbaceous  Calceolarias  and  Cyclamens 
for  principal  batch,  and  Cinerarias  and  Primulas  for  late  bloom. 
Shift  on,  as  it  becomes  necessary,  earlier  batches,  and  not  let  them 
become  pot-bound  at  this  stage. 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND   GARDEN    GUIDE.  221 


HORTICULTUEAL  NOTES. 

UNE  has  been  characterized  this  year  by  the  preva- 
lence of  cold  easterly  winds,  and  an  almost  total  absence 
of  sun,  and  the  fruit  crops  throughout  the  country 
have  suffered  severely,  and  their  appearance  has  under- 
gone a  wonderful  change  during  the  month.  In  many 
parts  of  the  country,  especially  in  some  districts  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  the  metropolis,  the  currant-bushes  and  other  fruit-trees  have 
almost  been  killed  by  the  attacks  of  the  aphis,  and  in  some  orchards 
the  apple-trees  are  well-nigh  denuded  of  fruit,  and  the  prospect  at 
present  is  anything  but  cheering.  The  heavy  rains  with  which  we 
have  been  favoured  during  the  month  have  in  some  cases  assisted  in 
clearing  currant-bushes  of  the  aphis  ;  but  the  best  remedy,  because 
the  most  simple  and  effectual,  has  been  dusting  the  trees  with  new- 
slaked  lime  when  the  foliage  was  moist  with  dew.  Dusting  the 
trees  with  lime  quite  spoils  the  fruit  ;  but  it  is  hardly  necessary  to 
say  that  when  the  trees  are  so  badly  infested  as  they  have  been 
in  many  parts  of  the  country  this  year,  a  great  risk  exists  of  their 
being  killed  outright,  unless  remedial  measures  are  resorted  to  before 
the  insect  pests  have  established  themselves  firmly. 

The  temperature  has  also  been  extremely  low,  and  the  tender 
bedding-plants,  such  as  Alternantheras  and  Coleus,  have  hardly  been 
able  to  stand  their  ground,  and  the  possibility  of  their  making  new 
growth  has  been  out  of  the  question,  and  the  summer  will  in  all  pro- 
bability be  far  advanced  before  the  flower  garden— unless  the 
situation  is  exceptionally  favourable — can  present  a  very  brilliant 
appearance. 

The  exhibitions  of  horticultural  and  floricultural  produce  have 
been  unusually  numerous,  both  in  the  metropolis  and  the  provinces, 
but,  excepting  the  exhibition  held  at  Manchester,  which  was 
attended  by  upwards  of  50,000  visitors,  and  the  exhibition  held  at 
Nottingham,  under  the  auspices  of  the  Eoyal  Horticultural  Society, 
none  of  them  were  above  mediocrity.  The  most  interesting  features 
of  the  metropolitan  exhibitions  have  been  the  new  plants  and  new 
florists'  flowers,  and  the  most  important  of  the  latter  were  the  new 
large-flowering  show  pelargoniums  exhibited  by  Mr.  C.  Turner, 
Slough,  on  behalf  of  E.  B.  Foster,  Esq.,  Clewer  Manor,  which  will 
probably  be  sent  out  next  spring ;  and  Dr.  Denny's  new  zonal 
pelargoniums,  now  in  course  of  distribution  by  Mr.  W.  Paul,  Wal- 
tham  Cross.  The  latter  are,  in  their  respective  colours,  a  wonderful 
advance  on  all  existing  varieties,  and  will,  when  they  become  well 
known,  find  their  way  into  every  collection  of  geraniums  in  the 
country.  To  overpraise  them  is  almost  impossible,  and  those  who 
are  interested  in  this  useful  class  of  plants,  who  did  not  see  them 
when  exhibited  during  the  season,  will  do  well,  if  they  have  the 
opportunity,  to  pay  a  visit  to  the  Waltham  Nurseries  some  time 
during  the  summer.  The  following  brief  description  will  convey  a 
fair  idea  of  the  colour  of  the  flowers,  and  also  of  the  general  cha- 
racter of  the  plants ;  and,  to  show  that  their  merits  are  not  over- 


222  THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 

stated,  it  is  worthy  of  mention  that  they  have  all  received  first-class 
certificates  at  the  great  London  shows.  The  names  and  colours  are 
as  follows  : — 

Diana,  rich  deep  velvety  crimson,  flowers  of  good  form  and  sub- 
stance ;  trusses  of  medium  size,  but  freely  produced ;  habit  dwarf, 
and  said  to  be  adapted  for  bedding  culture.  Haidee,  magenta 
shaded  with  blue ;  very  pleasing  and  attractive.  Iago,  bright 
orange-scarlet ;  flowers  large,  and  of  grand  form,  and  produced 
in  bold,  conspicuous  trusses ;  neat,  dark  green  zonal  foliage ; 
habit  compact  and  robust ;  fine  for  conservatory  decoration  and 
specimen  culture.  Ianthe,  bluish  crimson  flowers  of  large  size,  good 
shape  and  substance ;  habit  dwarf  and  branching,  with  handsome 
dark  green  zonal  foliage.  Sir  Charles  Napier,  brilliant  dark  scarlet; 
flowers  very  large,  of  great  substance  and  fine  form ;  petals  con- 
siderably overlapping;  first-class  for  exhibition  specimens.  Sir  John 
Moore,  dark  scarlet ;  flowers  large,  of  fine  form  and  great  substance ; 
habit  good  ;  flower-stalks  erect  and  wiry.  Wellington,  dark  velvety 
maroon-crimson,  petals  broad  and  finely  formed,  trusses  of  immense 
size  and  handsome  foliage;  a  grand  hybrid  nosegay  for  conservatory 
decoration. 

Mr.  Foster's  new  show  pelargoniums  are  all  so  rich  in  colour, 
large  in  size,  and  so  perfect  in  form,  that  it  appears  almost  impos- 
sible to  effect  any  further  improvement.  The  best  and  most 
distinct  varieties  exhibited  during  the  present  season  are  Blue  Boll, 
Brigand,  Ccesar,  Achievement,  Conquest,  Chieftain,  Great  ATogul, 
Plato,  Prelate,  Pompey,  Rubens,  Finale,  and  Lord  Byron. 

Before  quitting  the  Geraniums,  mention  must  be  made  of  a  new 
pink-flowered  bedder,  Master  Christine,  now  being  distributed  by 
Mr.  Cannell,  of  Woolwich.  At  the  last  Meeting  of  the  Royal  Horti- 
cultural Society,  Mr.  Cannell  exhibited  several  specimens  which 
afforded  ample  evidence  of  its  extreme  floriferous  character,  and  the 
possibility  of  its  quite  surpassing  Christine  for  bedding  purposes. 
In  habit,  it  is  very  dwarf  and  compact ;  the  wood  being  remarkably 
short  jointed,  and  the  flowers  are  produced  in  large  trusses  on  stout 
flower-stalks,  which  stand  well  above  the  foliage.  The  flowers  are  a 
few  shades  deeper  in  colour  than  Christine,  and  wonderfully  effective. 
It  received  the  highest  award  from  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society 
it  could  possibly  have,  last  autumn ;  and  the  plants  were  apparently 
exhibited  to  show  that  it  preserves  its  high  character. 

Amongst  thelarge  number  of  new  plants  exhibitedat  the  first  June 
Meeting  at  Kensington,  were  a  fine  perpetual  flowering  Clove,  Miss 
Joliffe,  a  very  free  flowering  variety  of  great  value  for  bouquets,  with 
flesh-coloured  flowers,  from  Mr.  Master's  gardener,  East  Macclesfield. 
Linum  campanulatum,  an  improved  form  of  the  well-known  Linum 
flavum,and  therefore  most  valuable,  from  Mr.  Atkins,  Painswick ;  and 
double  flowering  Petunia  Pantaloon,  one  of  the  many  fine  varieties  with 
fringed  flowers  raised  at  Chiswick.  Lathyrus  Sibthorpi,  a  perennial 
species  with  medium-sized  flowers  of  a  purplish  rose,  introduced  from 
Greece  by  Mr.  Thompson,  of  Ipswich ;  and  a  new  white  decorative 
pink  Lady  Blanch,  staged  by  Mr.  C.  Turner,  Slough,  who  also  sent 
to  the  last  meeting  a  grand  show  pink  Godfrey,  a  superb  flower  of 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  223 

the  finest  form,  very  full,  and  heavily  laced  with  rose-purple.     The 
last  Meeting  of  the  Eojal  Horticultural  Society  was  devoted  chiefly 
to  Fuchsias  and  Palms.     The  trade  growers  of  Fuchsias  were  repre- 
sented  by  Messrs.  "Wright,   of  Lee,  who  were  the  only  exhibitors 
in  the    class  set  apart  for  nurserymen  ;   but  the  amateur  growers 
mustered  in  strong  force,  and  the  prizes  in  the  class  for  twelve  speci- 
mens in  eight-inch  pots,  and  also  for  six  in  thirteen-inch  pots,  were 
ly  contested  ;  and  the  first  prize  in  both  classes  was  carried  off 
r.  James,  gardener  to  W.  F.  Watson,  Esq.,  Isleworth,  whose 
mens,  although  not  of  large  size,  were  marvels  of  cultural  skill. 
ae  varieties  staged  by  Mr.  James,  in  the  collection  of  twelve,  were 
3-ii  -y    Girl,  Taglioni,  Starlight,  Lady  Heytesbury,  Catherine  Parr, 
A.valanche,  Killiecrankie,   Daniel  Lambert,  Weeping  Beauty,   and 
Generous.     Mr.  James,  it  will  be  remembered,  recently  contributed 
>er  on  Fuchsia  Growing  to  the  Floral  Woeld,  and  no  one  who 
the  plants  exhibited  by  him  on  the   occasion  referred  to,  could 
4      )t  his  fitness  to  offer  advice  on  the   cultivation  of  this  graceful 
/ing  plant.     The  competition  in  the  classes  for  Palms  was  also 
good,  and  equal  first  prizes  were  awarded  to  Mr.  B.  G.  Williams, 
C  pper  Holloway,  and  Mr.   Linden,  of  Brussels,  who  has  probably 
the  finest  collection  of  Palms  in  existence. 

The  Crystal  Palace  Bose  Show,  which  was  held  on  the  2-lth  ulfc., 
was  rather  below  the  average  of  former  years,  although  a  large 
number  of  very  fine  blooms  were  staged.  The  principal  trade  exhi- 
bitors were  Messrs.  Paul,  Keynes,  Turner,  and  Mitchell ;  and  a  new 
exhibitor,  Mr.  Baker,  of  Heavitree,  Devon,  carried  off  the  lion's  share 
of  first  prizes  in  the  division  set  apart  for  amateurs.  Amongst  the 
new  roses  occurred  a  new  English  variety,  Robert  Marnoclc,  a  grand 
dark  flower,  similar  in  character  to  Duke  of  Edinburgh,  but  more 
darker  in  colour,  raised  and  exhibited  by  Messrs.  Paul  and  Son, 
Cheshunt. 


TO   CORRESPONDENTS. 


MANaraNCr  Roses. — A  Tyro. — Spread  the  sweepings  of  the  p'geon-honse  over 
the  surface  of  the  border,  and  the  rains  will  wash  its  fertilizing  properties  down  to 
the  roots.  It  can_be  used  in  this  manner  quite  fresh.  The  frond  of  the  fern  received 
is  not  sufficiently  developed  to  admit  of  our  giving  you  its  name. 

J.  O'Donnell. — The  flowers  have  nothing  to  do  with  the  maturation  of  the 
tubers,  and  the  recommendation  for  their  removal  is  given  simply  because  the 
energies  of  the  plants  must  be  diverted  fiom  their  proper  course  if  they  have  to 
mature  a  crop  of  seed  as  well  as  the  tubers.  Several  excellent  papers  on  strawberry 
culture,  by  some  of  the  best  praeticals  living,  have  appeared  in  the  Floral  Woklo 
within  the  last  few  years.  Try  Messrs.  Barr  and  Sugden,  12,  King  Street,  Covent 
Garden,  for  the  Tree  Onions,  as  you  have  experienced  a  difficulty  in  obtaining  them 
elsewhere.  .  *;  v-fi 

Christine  Hippidey,  Slone  Easton. — The  seedling  rose  may  not  flower  for 
another  year  or  two.  The  plant  must  not  be  over-fed.  We  suppose  that  it  is  not 
possible  that  you  have  taken  up  a  sucker  from  the  stock  upon  which  the  tree  men- 
tioned is  worked.  The  trees  are  in  a  starving  state,  and  the  evils  arising  from 
dtfective  root-action  have  been  increased  by  the  uncongenial  weather  we  have  had. 
There  is  no  remedy  for  the  grubs  excepting  hand-picking.  The  soil  in  which  the 
Lily  of  the  Valley  is  grown  has  become  exhausted,  and  the  bed  should  be  top- 
dressed  in  the  autumn  with  leaf-mould  or  well  decayed  manure. 


224  THE   FLORAL   WORLD    AND   GARDEN   GUIDE. 

Egg  Plants. — A.  E.,  Hornsey. — It  is  almost  too  late  to  say  much  about  growing 
this  plant  this  year.  The  seeds  should  be  sown  in  March,  and  brought  along  in  a 
nice  heat  until  they  begin  to  bloom,  when  you  can  take  them  into  the  greenhouse 
for  the  remaining  part  of  the  season.  Sow  the  seed  in  light  soil,  pot  off'  singly,  or 
two  in  a  pot,  as  soon  as  they  are  large  enough,  and  use  a  soil  composed  of  two 
parts  loam  and  one  rotten  manure.  Give  plenty  of  water  after  the  pots  are  filled, 
with  roots,  and  keep  them  well  syringed  to  keep  down  the  red-spider.  The  best 
course  will  be  to  buy  a  few  plants  in  small  pots,  and  shift  them  into  large  pots  at 
once. 

Clianthus  Dampiebi. — Ii.  B. — This  should  be  kept  growing  freely,  for 
check  js  hurtful  to  it,  and  likely  to  produce  red-spider.     It  will  be  a  heavy  jol 
turn  them  out  of  pots  larger  than  those  they  are  in  already  (six  to  the  cast). 
may  overcome  that  difficulty  by  sinking  the  pots  into  the  holes  which  the  pla. 
are  to  occupy,  and  then  breaking  the  pots  away.     They  will  remain  very  well  ovi 
winter  in  the  pots  as  they  are ;  and  to  keep  them  going  give  plenty  of  water,  an 
once  a  week  a  spoonful  of  Peruvian  guano  to  each,  spread  over  the  surface  of  th 
soil  in  the  pot,  and  washed  in  with  ordinary  watering. 

Mixed  Hepaticas. — A  Perplexed,  Amateur. — The  best  way  to  manage  the 
hepaticas,  so  as  to  get  them  sorted  into  colours,  depends  on  how  they  have  been 
treated.  From  the  time  they  ceased  flowering,  they  ought  to  be  in  very  fine  sandy 
soil,  enriched  with  plenty  of  fine  mulch  from  an  old  dung-bed,  to  make  their  growth 
for  next  season.  Then  left  alone  till  they  begin  to  show  bloom-buds  early  the  next 
year,  when  all  the  old  leaves  may  be  cut  off,  and  the  plants  potted  into  shallow 
seed-pans  to  bloom  in  the  greenhouse  ;  such  as  are  wanted  for  ribbon-work  and 
systematic  planting  to  be  allowed  to  show  their  colour,  and  to  be  carefully  moved 
immediately  to  the  places  they  are  to  decorate.  This  plan  ensures  exactitude  as  to 
colours,  and,  if  properly  performed,  in  no  way  interferes  with  the  blooming  or  after- 
growth of  the  plants.  When  crocuses  get  mixed,  they  may  be  served  in  the  same 
way,  for  they  move  with  as  complete  balls  as  chrysanthemums. 

Showy  Greenhouse  Plants. — A  Lady  Amateur. — The  best  plants  to  make  your 
"greenhouse  gay  during  the  next  few  months"  are  scarlet  Salvias,  double  Petunias, 
Senecios,  Crassuias,  Abronias,  Gesneras,  Statice  Holfordi  and  profusa,  Brugmansias, 
Erica  pulchella,  Zonal  Geraniums,  Asters,  Balsams,  Browallias,  Clintonia  pulchella, 
and  any  showy  annuals  that  were  sown  in  June.  Later  in  the  season,  pompone 
Chrysanthemums  will  come  in,  and  make  the  stages  very  gay. 

Drying  Heath. — A  Young  Botanist. — First  of  all  obtain  some  new  blotting- 
paper,  and  a  couple  of  deal  boards,  eighteen  inches  square.  Lay  out  the  specimens 
as  flat  as  possible,  and  cut  away  side  branches  that  are  in  the  way.  Place  between 
blotting-paper  with  a  board  above  and  below,  and  put  on  a  moderate  weight.  At 
the  end  of  twelve  hours,  shift  the  specimens  into  other  sheets  of  blotting-paper, 
made  dry  and  warm  by  holding  them  before  the  fire,  and  continue  to  change  in  the 
same  way  till  the  specimens  are  dry.  Plants  dried  quickly  between  thick  folds  of 
warm  blotting-paper,  changed  every  few  hours,  keep  their  colour  most  perfectly  ; 
but  the  slower  the  process,  the  greater  is  the  probability  that  the  colour  will  be  lost. 
Blue  flowers  are  the  most  likely  to  deteriorate  :  they  usually  change  to  a  dirty 
white.     On  the  contrary,  yellows  hold  in  all  their  original  brightness. 

Vinca  major  elegantissima. — A.  _B. — This  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of  the 
variegated  periwinkles,  and  for  a  fancy  edging  very  chaste  and  striking.  It  may 
take  the  place  of  Golden-leaved  geraniums  in  many  cases,  but  to  our  eye  it  is  very 
distinct  in  its  effect,  and  better  adapted  for  large  beds.  It  is  unquestionably  the 
best  hardy  plant,  with  variegated  foliage,  for  shady  positions,  in  existence. 

Sawdust  as  Manure. — R.  B. — Sawdust  from  some  kinds  of  wood  requires  a 
couple  of  years  to  rot;  other  kinds  decay  more  quickly.  It  is  of  very  little  value 
as  a  manure,  but  a  good  material  to  soak  up  house-sewage  or  the  drainage  from 
stables  and  cowsheds.  The  appearance  of  mycelium  among  decaying  wood  appears 
to  be  local  ;  in  some  districts  such  a  thing  is  never  seen,  and  wood  rots  into  a  peaty 
sort  of  mould  of  great  value  to  the  gardener.  In  others,  the  smallest  chip  has  a 
network  of  white  threads  after  a  few  weeks'  exposure  to  damp,  and  any  living  roots 
that  may  be  near  are  pretty  sure  to  suffer.  Our  advice  is  not  to  use  sawdust  among 
fruit-trees  at  all. 


IS     RETICULATA 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND   GARDEN   GUIDE.  225 

THE    CULTIVATION    OF    IRIS. 

(With  Coloured  Plate  of  Iris  reticulata.) 

N  the  revival  of  a  taste  for  hardy  herbaceous  plants  which 
it  has  been  the  pleasure  and  privilege  of  the  present 
generation  to  witness,  the  Iris  has  obtained  a  consider- 
able share  of  attention,  and  many  good  collections  have 
been  formed  in  gardens  which  would  have  been  closed 
against  them  altogether  a  few  years  since.  We  have,  we  trust, 
done  our  full  part  in  promoting  this  revival,  and  the  Iris  has  not  been 
forgotten  in  our  selections  and  disquisitions  when  herbaceous  plants 
have  been  the  subjects  of  review.  The  subjoined  figure  of  Iris 
reticulata  has  been  prepared  in  order  to  "popularize"  a  most  beauti- 
ful plant,  and  also  to  afford  an  excuse  for  recurring  to  a  most 
attractive  theme.  Therefore,  in  submitting  the  picture  we  crave 
attention  for  a  few  remarks  intended  to  indicate  to  the  amateur  the 
several  characteristics  of  the  Iris  family  as  garden  plants,  and  the 
measures  that  should  be  resorted  to  for  their  proper  cultivation.  In 
order  to  convey  the  largest  possible  amount  of  useful  information  in 
the  fewest  possible  words,  we  shall  abstain  from  eulogy,  and  dismiss 
all  general  considerations  in  one  brief  paragraph.  All  the  garden 
species  and  varieties  of  Iris  are  hardy,  or  nearly  so,  and  may  there- 
fore be  grown  in  the  open  ground  or  in  cool  plant-houses,  and 
common  pits  and  frames.  They  are  all  beautiful,  but  as  compared 
with  the  many  fine  herbaceous  plants  now  at  our  command,  are 
certainly  not  all  in  an  equal  degree  desirable  for  ornamental  pur- 
poses, as  we  shall  indicate  as  we  proceed.  The  choicer  kinds  that 
flower  early  in  the  year  belong  properly  to  the  alpine-house,  or 
"  amateur's  sanctum,"  such  as  was  described  at  page  4  of  last  year's 
volume  of  the  Floral  Would.  In  all  cases  the  flowers  are  short- 
lived, but  they  last  long  enough  in  a  garden  where  a  considerable 
number  of  various  kinds  of  ornamental  plants  are  grown,  and  where 
consequently  a  continuous  succession  of  flowers  is  insured  either  in 
the  open  ground  or  under  glass.  A  few  of  the  more  robust-habited 
Irises  require  the  least  possible  amount  of  attention  from  the  culti- 
vator, for  indeed  if  proper  sites  be  chosen  for  them  they  will  take 
care  of  themselves.  But  the  most  delicate-habited,  which  happen, 
also,  generally  speaking,  to  be  the  most  beautiful,  require  careful 
and  methodical  treatment ;  and  if  planted  and  left  to  the  care  of 
chance,  will  likely  enough  chance  to  disappear.  We  shall  prescribe 
the  treatment  for  every  one  that  we  recommend,  trusting  solely  to 
our  own  experiences  for  the  directions  offered  to  the  amateur  who 
takes  an  interest  in  these  interesting  plants. 

The  genus  Iris  may,  for  cultural  purposes,  be  divided  into  two 
great  sections,  which  we  shall  term  the  Iikizomatous  and  the  Tuberous. 
In  the  first  group  we  find  those  that  extend  themselves  by  fleshy 
rhizomas  near  the  surface  ;  in  the  second,  those  that  form  distinct 
tubers  at  some  depth  below  the  surface,  and  that  in  habit  very 
closely  resemble  plants  that  have  true  bulbs.  Respecting  these  two 
VOL.  vi. — NO.  viii.  15 


226  THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 

groups,  it  may  be  remarked  that  the  rhizomatous  are,  as  a  rule,  the 
best  fitted  for  a  rough  life,  while  the  tuberous  kinds  require  more 
attention,  though  none  of  these  latter  are  to  be  regarded  as  pre- 
senting serious  difficulties  to  the  cultivator.  When  grown  in  the 
open  ground,  all  the  species  and  varieties  of  Iris  should  be  lifted 
and  replanted  every  three  or  four  years,  in  fresh  and  suitable  soil  of 
course,  and  at  a  depth  consistent  with  their  size  and  habit.  The 
amateur  will  do  well  to  keep  in  mind  a  simple  rule  respecting  the 
two  groups,  for  it  has  real  practical  value.  The  roots  of  the  rhizo- 
matous kinds  tend  upwards  in  growth,  so  that  though  in  the  first 
instauce  they  may  be  planted  a  foot  or  so  in  depth,  yet  in  two  or 
three  years  they  will  rise  above  the  surface ;  hence  these  require 
periodical  replanting,  in  order  to  place  the  roots  at  a  proper  depth. 
The  tuberous-rooted  kinds  tend  downwards  in  growth,  and  therefore 
when  these  are  taken  up  they  should  be  replanted  less  deep  than 
they  were  found ;  for  if  allowed  to  penetrate  deeper  and  deeper  of 
their  own  free  will,  they  will  in  time  have  their  roots  so  far  removed 
from  air  and  sunshine  that  they  will  perish  outright. 

Fibrous-booted  ok  Hhizomatous  Iris. — Iris  Germanica  is  the 
best  type  of  this  group,  and  takes  rank  as  a  florist's  flower.  We 
feel  bound  to  deliver  an  opinion  against  it  as  such,  and  we  would  go 
so  far  as  to  say  that,  although  a  few  clumps  are  admissible  almost 
anywhere,  and  are  especially  charming  in  a  little  cottage  garden,  its 
proper  place  is  in  the  front  of  the  shrubbery  and  other  parts  of  the 
grounds  that  are  not  richly  dressed.  There  are  many  beautiful  and 
fantastic  varieties,  numbering  fully  a  hundred  in  all,  but  none 
surpassing  in  effectiveness  the  common  "  blue  flag,"  as  it  is  called. 
This  plant  requires  a  rich  deep  soil  and  a  sunny  situation  to  attain 
full  development,  and  those  who  grow  the  named  varieties  should  of 
course  appropriate  to  them  a  good  open  border  in  a  retired  part  of 
the  garden,  as  far  removed  from  the  principal  display  of  flowers  as 
possible.  They  will,  however,  do  pretty  well  under  the  shade  of  trees, 
and  have  no  objection  to  a  sheltered  nook  in  the  immediate  vicinity 
of  water.  The  following  twenty-four  varieties  cf  German  Iris  com- 
prise the  most  distinct  and  showy,  and  constitute  a  good  collection 
for  a  beginner  : — Arquinto,  aurora,  atroviolacea,  Buriensis,  chereau, 
Duchesse  de  Nemours,  Duchess  of  Sutherland,  Edina,  elegantissima, 
Elfrida,  Enchantress,  Harlequin,  Incomparable,  Jacquesiana,  Lord 
Grey,  marginaia,  mirabilis,  nigra,  optima,  Queen  of  Gipsies,  Queen  of 
May,  Romeo,  Sampson,  Sparta. 

I.  sambucina  differs  from  the  last  in  its  more  vigorous  growth 
and  the  nearly  equal  size  of  the  segments  of  its  dull  purple  flowers. 
A  good  shrubbery  plant. 

I.  variegata  is  closely  related  to  I.  Germanica ;  the  flowers  are 
yellow,  netted  with  brown  lines. 

J.  lutescens  is  a  neat  dwarf  plant,  which  produces  but  one  flower 
on  each  stem.  The  usual  colour  of  the  flower  is  pale  yellow  netted 
with  violet,  but  occasional  variations  occur.  This  is  scarcely  hardy 
enough  for  cold  damp  soils,  but  is  quite  hardy  on  dry  soils  in  sunny 
sheltered  situations. 

I.  pallida  is  closely  related  to  the  German  Iris,  but  differs  in  the 


THE  FLORAL   WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  227 

flowers  being  stalkless  and  the  tube  sborter.  It  is  of  vigorous 
habit,  and  a  large  clump  covered  with  soft  blue  or  bluish-white 
flowers  has  a  handsome  appearance.     A  good  shrubbery  plant. 

I.  cristata. — A  pretty  dwarf  plant,  and  scarcely  hardy  enough  for 
cold  soils,  but  quite  hardy  in  a  sheltered  and  dry  situation.  The 
flowers  are  blue  variegated  with  yellow. 

I.  fcetidissima. — This  is  the  "  Gladwin"  of  the  English  woods,  a 
capital  shrubbery  plant,  thriving  best  in  deep  rich  soil  in  a  shady 
situation.  The  flowers  are  usually  of  a  purple  colour,  with  metallic 
shades,  but  they  vary  considerably  even  on  the  same  plant.  The 
variegated-leaved  variety  is  an  extremely  handsome  plant  for  pot 
culture  in  the  alpine-house. 

I.  graminea  is  a  neat  grasslike  plant,  with  flowers  that  present 
shades  of  white,  purple,  and  yellow.  A  good  rockery  and  woodland 
plant,  but  not  good  enough  for  a  first-rate  border. 

I.  ymmila  is  the  so-called  "  Crimean  Iris ;"  a  small,  neat,  fast- 
spreading,  thrifty,  and  sportive  plant,  of  which  there  are  many  distinct 
varieties.  This  is  good  enough  for  the  best  herbaceous  border,  and 
should  have  a  dry  sunny  situation.  A  series  of  large  clumps  of 
distinct  colours  would  contribute  in  a  most  pleasing  manner  to  the 
enrichment  of  the  border  in  the  month  of  April,  and  the  more  dis- 
tinctive varieties  might  be  employed  for  edging  beds  of  lilies  and 
other  large  groups  of  herbaceous  plants.  The  following  ten  varieties 
are  all  desirable,  and  constitute  an  extremely  pretty  collection : — 
Pumila  vera,  atrocoerulea,  alba,  bicolor,  ccerulea,  gracilis,  intermedia, 
lutea,  pallida,  versicolor. 

I.  ruthenica. — Small  plant  with  grasslike  leaves,  the  flowers  are 
borne  one  on  each  stem,  the  colour  deep  purplish-blue.  A  charming 
plant  for  rockwork,  and  for  pot  culture  in  the  alpine-house.  It 
requires  a  light  sandy  soil  and  the  most  perfect  drainage. 

I.  sibirica  is  somewhat  robust  in  growth,  and  when  out  of  flower 
bears  some  resemblance  to  the  day-ldy,  owing  to  the  narrowness  of 
its  leaves.  The  flowers  are  blue,  overlaid  with  lines  of  deep  indigo. 
A  good  shrubbery  plant. 

I.  susiana. — This  iris  grows  two  feet  high,  and  produces  in  April 
flowers  of  great  size,  of  a  fine  blue  colour,  richly  netted  with  dark 
brown  lines.  It  is  a  fine  garden  plant,  requiring  a  warm  well- 
drained  soil  and  sheltered  position.  It  is  also  worthy  of  pot  culture, 
and  when  in  flower  a  noble  adornment  for  the  conservatory. 

I.  tenax. — A  dwarf  tough  plant,  producing  very  large  flowers  of  a 
deep  purple  colour,  blotched  with  white  and  yellow.  Suitable  for 
the  rockery. 

I.  iberica. — A  very  dwarf,  exceedingly  neat  plant,  with  glaucous 
leaves  and  gigantic  flowers,  the  upper  half  of  which  is  snow-white, 
the  lower  half  most  curiously  veined  with  black  and  brown  upon  a 
groundwork  of  dull  yellow.  This  rare  and  magnificent  iris  was 
admirably  presented  by  Mr.  Ware,  of  Hale  .Farm  Nurseries,  Totten- 
ham, at  a  meeting  of  the  Eoyal  Horticultural  Society  in  April  last 
year.  A  remarkable  fine  rockery  and  pot  plant,  requiring  a  rich 
light  sandy  soil  and  the  most  perfect  drainage. 

I.  nudicaulis. — A  dwarf,  neat,  fast-spreading  plant,  with  broadish 


22S  THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND   GARDEN   GUIDE. 

leaves  and  an  abundance  of  showy  flowers  of  a  fine  deep  blue  colour 
richly  netted  with  purple  and  yellow.  A  first-rate  border  plant, 
preferable  to  I.  Germanica  on  account  of  its  smaller  size,  neat  habit, 
and  abundant  flowering. 

J.  stylosa. — A  neat-growing  narrow-leaved  plant,  producing  ex- 
quisitely beautiful  pale  blue  flowers,  which  are  delicately  scented. 
A  first-rate  iris  for  a  warm  sheltered  border,  but  worthy  of  pot 
culture,  as  it  flowers  early  and  is  somewhat  tender  in  constitution. 

I.  Kcempferi. —  This  is  a  fibrous-rooted  plant  in  the  way  of 
I.  graminea,  but  more  handsome,  presenting  several  distinct  and 
fine  varieties,  yet  comparatively  useless  in  an  English  garden.  It 
is  so  far  tender  that  a  severe  winter  destroys  it  in  the  open  ground, 
and  so  far  fastidious  that  it  is  a  very  bad  pot  plant.  The  enthusiast 
in  iris  culture  may  hope  to  succeed  by  planting  it  in  a  warm  corner 
near  a  greenhouse  furnace,  or  some  similarly  favourable  spot,  and  in 
Devon  and  Cornwall  it  may  prove  to  be  quite  hardy.  The  following 
are  the  best  among  many  varieties : — Alex,  von  Humboldt,  Von 
Sieholcl,  Rutherford  Alcoclc,  Souvenir  de  Vriese,  Ernst  Moritz  Amdt, 
Madame  Helene  von  Siebold,  Ida. 

Tubekotjs-eooted  Iris. — I.  reticulata,  an  exceedingly  neat  and 
somewhat  rigid  plant  of  dwarf,  slender  habit,  with  narrow  leaves 
and  smallish  flowers  of  the  most  exquisite  beauty,  the  prevailing 
colours  brilliant  purplish- violet,  richly  netted  with  bands  of  deep 
gold-yellow  and  orange.  Dr.  Hooker  says  of  it,  "  Though  far  from 
the  largest  or  most  gorgeous,  this  is  really  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
species  of  iris  in  cultivation;  nothing  can  exceed  the  deep  rich 
violet  of  its  perianth  lobes  and  stigmata,  or  the  delicious  fragrance 
of  violet  it  exhales  ;  whilst  the  leaves  are  of  a  less  coarse  appearance 
and  texture  than  is  usual  in  the  genus."  We  know  nothing  of  this 
as  a  border  plant,  for  in  our  cold  damp  soil  it  would  simply  perish 
if  planted  out ;  but  it  has  long  been  one  of  the  most  valued  gems 
for  the  alpine-house,  on  account  of  its  wondrously  elegant  and 
sweet-scented  flowers  in  early  spring.  It  will  grow  freely  in  sandy 
peat  or  sandy  loam,  and  would  probably  thrive  in  sandy  soil  in  a 
sheltered  part  of  a  dry  rockery. 

I.  tuberosa. — This  is  the  "  snake's-head  "  iris,  a  curiosity  and  a 
beautiful  dwaif-growing  plant.  The  flowers  are  blue  and  green,  far 
from  showy,  but  quaint  and  rich  in  character.  It  thrives  in  a  warm 
sandy  loam  or  peat  in  a  sheltered  spot,  and  is  well  worth  pot 
culture.  On  our  damp  cold  soil  it  is  quite  hardy  if  planted  on  a 
prepared  station,  so  as  to  be  well  drained,  and  with  a  good  mixture 
of  loam,  leaf-mould,  and  sand  to  root  in,  the  clumps  consisting  of 
about  a  dozen  roots  each. 

I.  xvphium,  I.  xipliioides. — The  first  of  these  is  the  "  Spanish," 
the  second  the  "English"  iris.  They  are  so  closely  related  that 
there  can  be  no  impropriety  in  bracketing  them  together.  They 
are  peculiar  plants,  presenting  curious  swollen  flower-buds  long  in 
advance  of  flowers,  and  when  full  out  making  a  most  interesting 
and  beautiful  display.  The  Spanish  flowers  about  ten  days  in  advance 
of  the  English,  and  are  scarcely  so  gay;  but  in  respect  of  beauty 
the  two  classes  do  not  greatly  dirler.     There  are  no  named  varieties, 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  229 

but  there  might  be  hundreds,  for  in  a  bed  of  seedlings  there  will 
not  be  found  two  alike,  however  large  and  full  the  bed  may  be.  It 
is  generally  understood  that  these  irises  require  a  well-prepared 
sandy  soil,  but  we  find  them  thrive  amazingly  in  our  heavy  loam  if 
they  are  but  lifted  every  three  years,  to  bring  their  roots  nearer  the 
surface,  and  provide  them  with  fresh  soil.  The  best  way  to  cultivate 
these  is  to  plant  a  considerable  number  in  an  open  sunny  spot — say 
on  a  sloping  bank  in  front  of  a  greenhouse — and  leave  them  undis- 
turbed for  three  years ;  then  take  them  up  in  autumn,  divide  the 
root3,  deeply  dig  and  manure  the  soil,  and  plant  again.  There  will 
be  enough  far  two  or  three  plantations  when  the  roots  are  divided, 
for  they  increase  by  the  roots  at  a  steady  pace ;  but  the  most  enter- 
taining way  to  multiply  them  is  by  means  of  seed  sown  as  soon  as 
ripe.  S.  H. 


GARDENING   WITHOUT  A   GARDEN. 

BY   W.    D.    PRIOR,    ESQ. 

j[T  first  sight,  this  title  might  appear  to  involve  a  paradox. 
Nevertheless,  it  is  strictly  true,  that  every  person  may 
enjoy  the  luxury  of  a  garden  without  a  yard  of  ground. 
He  must,  however,  have  at  his  command  a  place  for 
standing  pots,  such  as  a  window  sill,  a  balcony  or  portico, 
or  better  still,  an  area  or  a  flat.  Possessing  these,  his  fancy  may 
run  riot  in  a  constant  succession  of  greenery  and  blossom,  even  in 
the  heart  of  London,  provided  there  is  a  modicum  of  sunshine  or  a 
breath  of  air.  The  gratification  of  this  addition  to  urban  pleasures, 
will  be  duly  appreciated  by  all  who  are  capable  of  estimating  the 
difference  between  a  look-out  upon  bright  foliage  and  flowers,  or 
upon  stucco  fronts  and  brick  walls ;  and  of  comparing  the  fragrance 
wafted  through  windows  so  adorned,  with  the  natural  whiff  of  the 
streets.  There  will  also  be  the  pleasurable  excitement  which  attends 
the  culture  of  flowers  even  on  the  most  limited  scale — which  urges 
"  Cook  "  to  assiduously  tend  her  mammoth  nettle  geranium  in  the 
kitchen  window,  or  "  Jeames  "  to  cherish  some  stunted  shrub  in  the 
back  area  in  a  dilapidated  tub.  Indeed,  there  seems  to  be  a  uni- 
versal instinct,  developing  itself  in  divers  ways  and  under  the  most 
adverse  conditions,  which  recognizes  intuitively  the  improved 
appearance  conferred  by  plant  life  equally  on  the  mansion  or  the 
cottage. 

The  gardening  of  the  "  sill,"  which  is  the  chief  basis  for  the 
operations  of  out-door,  as  distinguished  from  in-door  window  garden- 
ing, is  neither  an  elaborate  or  offensive  undertaking.  In  the  present 
day,  nurseries  abound  in  every  suburb,  from  which  numerous 
varieties  of  beautiful  and  interesting  plants  and  flowers  may  be 
obtained  for  immediate  use,  and  at  a  trifling  cost.  Thus,  all  the 
labour  and  uncertainty  of  cultivation  is  spared ;  the  only  trouble 
connected  with  this  sort  of  garden  being  the  preservation  in  health 


230  THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 

of  the  plants  that  fill  it,  while  in  actual  use ;  when  become  passe 
their  places  being  easily  filled  up  again  by  a  fresh  supply.  A  special 
advantage  therefore  attends  this  style  of  plant  decoration :  it  may 
be  commenced  or  given  up  at  any  period,  and  the  stock  being  small, 
its  removal  or  dispersion  is  attended  with  little  trouble  or  loss. 

To  begin  with  the  furnishing  of  the  "  sill,"  there  will  be  many 
ways  of  doing  this,  according  to  its  size,  and  the  taste  and  means  of 
its  designer.  The  first  point,  however,  in  any  case  will  be  to  secure 
the  pots  or  boxes  used  from  the  possibility  of  slipping  or  being 
blown  off.  To  this  end,  a  frame  of  some  kind  should  be  fixed  out- 
side round  the  sill,  though  to  the  lower  windows  in  modern  resi- 
dences ornamental  cross-bars  are  usually  the  rule.  Where  such  are 
not,  a  slender  rod  of  iron  will  form  a  good  frame,  with  a  screen  of 
fine  iron  wire  net  inside.  At  a  little  distance  from  the  wall  a  similar 
rod  may  be  used,  following  the  shape  of  the  window  frame ;  the 
intervening  space  between  that  and  the  wall  being  also  filled  up 
with  wire  net,  after  the  manner  of  a  trellis,  on  which  to  train  up 
climbers  ;  or  an  actual  wooden  trellis  may  be  employed.  Above 
the  window-frame,  in  the  brickwork,  hooks  and  staples  should  be 
placed  for  the  purpose  of  suspending  hanging  baskets  filled  with 
trailers.  We  shall  thus  have  an  arrangement  for  the  cultivation  of 
various  interesting  and  ornamental  subjects — climbers,  trailers,  and 
pot  plants. 

In  dealing  with  such  a  garden  as  here  described,  it  will  add  much 
to  the  health  and  vigour  of  its  tenant?,  and  prolong  their  lasting 
qualities,  if  moss  be  packed  between  and  on  the  surface  of  the  pots, 
thereby  preserving  moisture,  and  protecting  them  from  the  scorching 
sun  or  cold  winds.  At  each  side  of  the  "  ledge,"  where  upright 
rods  or  trellis-work  is  fixed,  climbers  may  be  placed  in  large  pots, 
and  trained  up.  Good  and  inexpensive  kinds  for  this  purpose  may 
be  selected  from  the  smaller  variegated  ivies,  when  it  is  resolved  to 
adopt  an  evergreen  or  permanent  decoration :  deciduous  varieties 
are  Canary  creeper,  Cobea  scandens,  Convolvulus,  Clematises,  and 
Tropscolums  of  all  sorts,  all  of  which  will  thrive  in  pots  with  small 
demands  upon  attention  or  cultural  skill.  Wire  baskets  should 
always  first  be  padded  with  moss,  whether  the  plants  are  grown  in 
pots  or  in  natural  soil.  For  these,  there  are  likewise  hosts  of 
appropriate  occupants,  such  as  Sedum  Sieboldii,  Tradescantia  zebrina, 
the  old-fashioned  "  Mother  of  Thousands,"  ivy-leaved  geraniums, 
fuchsias  in  their  season,  "  Love-lies-bleeding  ; "  where  a  drooping 
crimson  maroon-coloured  contrast  is  required,  Tropa3olums,  Loniceras, 
particularly  the  variegated  Honeysuckle,  and  the  like.  While  con- 
sidering subjects  of  this  habit,  it  may  be  well  to  call  attention  to 
Passion-flowers,  Virginia  creeper,  and  AVisteria,  as  admirable  area 
plants  where  space,  and  aspect,  and  atmosphere  exist,  though  too  large 
for  small  balconies  or  windows. 

There  are  so  many  artistic  contrivances  as  receptacles  for  plants 
in  the  present  day,  that  there  is  little  need  for  falling  back  upon  the 
old-fashioned  wooden  box,  once  the  most  ambitious  piece  of  furni- 
ture upon  the  window-sill.  This  used  to  be  taken  to  a  nurseryman 
to  be  filled  every  year,  and  its  advent  was  an  event  in  many  a  town 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE.  231 

household.  The  place  of  this  is  now  supplied  by  numerous  beauti- 
ful fabrics  in  various  forms  aud  dimensions.  Those  of  siliceous 
material  are  by  far  the  strongest  and  most  durable ;  and,  when 
dirty  or  weather-stained,  their  freshness  may  be  restored  by  a  thin 
cream  or  stone-coloured  wash,  not  forgetting  a  primary  application 
of  soap  and  water  to  remove  grit. 

The  porcelain  pots  or  jardinets  are  the  most  cleanly  and  elegant, 
some  of  them  being  also  works  of  art  of  the  highest  order.  They 
require  considerable  taste  and  judgment  to  fill  them  to  advantage, 
their  brilliant  colouis  and  ornate  patterns  having  a  tendency  to 
make  them  principals  instead  of  simple  accessories,  and  to  kill  the 
flowers,  unless  ingeniously  harmonized  or  contrasted  therewith  ; 
indeed,  they  may  be  termed  too  ornamental  in  themselves,  and  are 
only  suitable  for  positions  of  pretension.  Rustic  boxes  may  also 
be  constructed,  very  effective,  without  much  outlay.  Fir  cones, 
crooked  lengths  of  wood,  oak  varnish,  and  a  wooden  framework,  are 
the  chief  materials  required.  Virgin  oak,  an  article  recently  intro- 
duced, may  also  be  employed  in  the  construction  of  ornaments  in 
this  style.  A  special  point  must  be  recognized  in  all  contrivances 
for  the  reception  of  plants,  which  is,  ample  provision  for  thorough 
drainage.  By  observing  this,  it  is  possible  to  utilize  those  orna- 
mental vases  which  often  stand  at  the  side  of  doors  or  steps.  Free- 
growing  climbers  grown  in  these  might  be  taken  up  the  house  on 
such  light  iron  rods  as  have  been  previously  spoken  of.  A  centre 
mass  of  colour  contrast,  where  space  permits,  may  be  produced  by 
sinking  several  small  pots  in  a  single  large  one — this  improves  the 
effect  by  breaking  up  the  stiff  appearance  of  a  row  of  equal  sized 
pots.  It  is  quite  unnecessary  to  particularize  objects  for  furnishing 
the  window-ledge,  because  the  whole  array  of  hardy  plants  and 
flowers,  especially  the  bedders,  changing  with  almost  every  week, 
are  always  to  be  obtaiued  when  wanted,  and  at  such  a  trifling  outlay. 

Balconies  and  porticos,  as  affording  greater  space,  should  be 
chiefly  treated  with  evergreens  and  shrubs  ;  but  here,  again,  circum- 
stances must  be  the  arbiter  of  decoration.  However,  climbers  may  be 
trained  along:  and  through  the  iron  railings,  and  trailers  allowed  to 
hang  down.  If  there  is  sufficient  room,  flower-stands  also  may  be 
placed  in  fit  positions  amongst  the  shrubs  ;  and  in  a  cool  aspect  a 
miniature  fernery  will  not  be  beyond  the  operator's  reach.  Here, 
again,  fragrance  from  leaf  or  flower  should  always  be  largely  intro- 
duced so  as  to  extend  to  the  interior  of  the  dwelling. 

"  How  to  utilize  a  town  area"  has  been  previously  treated  upon 
in  former  pages ;  many  of  the  general  principles  there  laid  down 
are  equally  applicable  to  the  out-door  wiudow  garden.  But 
happy  the  possessor  of  an  easily  accessible  "  flat ;"  to  him,  if  air 
and  light  be  propitious,  and  smoke  be  not  too  adverse,  garden  and 
greenhouse  are  alike  open.  He  can  grow  his  own  flowers  in  lieu  of 
buying  them,  he  can  sow  seeds,  propagate  by  cuttings,  and  bloom 
the  fully-matured  plant,  enjoying  to  a  considerable  extent  the 
pleasures  of  a  veritable  rus  in  itrbo. 


232  THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND   GARDEN    GUIDE. 

INTERMEDIATE  STOCKS  FOR  THE  CONSERVATORY. 

AVINGr  been  successful  in  growing  these  for  many  years 
past,  I  have  come  to  the  conclusion  that  this  beautiful 
stock  is  not  grown  one-half  so  extensively  as  it  should 
be.  Apart  from  the  beauty  of  the  flowers,  their 
delicious  fragrance  alone  is  quite  sufficient  to  entitle 
them  to  a  more  fuller  recognition  of  their  merits.  Those  who  fail 
to  have  a  good  supply  in  their  conservatory  through  the  spring 
months  miss  one  of  the  charms  of  that  season.  We  usually  grow 
about  six  dozen,  three  for  growing  in  a  little  warmth  to  flower  early, 
and  the  other  three  dozen  lor  grow  ing  in  a  cold  frame  to  succeed  them. 
The  seed  is  sown  rather  thinly  in  a  flat  box  on  the  1st  of  August, 
and  placed  in  a  frame  or  greenhouse  until  it  is  nicely  up,  when 
it  is  stood  out  of  doors  until  the  plants  are  large  enough  to  handle. 
Some  good  turfy  loam  is  chopped  up  roughly  and  mixed  with  about 
one-third  of  its  bulk  uf  rotten  dung.  After  this  is  done,  a  suffi- 
cient number  of  4S-sized  pots  are  filled  with  the  compost,  after 
placing  a  few  crocks  in  the  bottom  for  drainage,  and  three  plants 
put  into  each.  The  soil  should  be  pressed  rather  firmly,  for  the 
plants  do  not  root  so  freely  and  grow  so  well  when  it  is  loose  as  they 
do  when  it  is  rather  firm.  After  all  are  potted,  they  are  placed  out 
of  doors  in  an  exposed  posiiion  until  frost  sets  in,  when  they  are 
removed  to  a  cold  pit,  and  protected  from  the  severest  of  the  weather. 
Those  intended  to  be  grown  in  a  little  warmth  are  taken  to  the 
greenhouse  early  in  January,  and  then  about  the  middle  of  February 
are  placed  in  a  heat  which  ranges  from  fifty  to  sixty  degrees.  They 
are  syringed  occasionally  to  keep  down  the  red-spider,  and  watered 
with  manure-water  about  every  other  time,  and  I  find  that  it  in- 
creases the  size  of  the  spikes  immensely.  The  others  are  placed  in 
the  greenhouse,  which  is  rather  warmer  than  the  cold  frame,  about 
the  end  of  February.  By  these  means  I  manage  to  add  very  mate- 
rially to  the  beauty  of  the  conservatory  under  my  charge  at  a  very 
small  expense,  and  in  many  instances  outvie  my  neighbours  who 
spend  a  lot  of  money  upon  hyacinths  and  other  bulbs.  We  also 
have  a  two-light  turf-pit,  in  which  a  bed  of  light  and  rich  soil  is 
made  and  planted  with  the  plants  left,  after  sufficient  have  been  put 
in  pots.  Plenty  of  air  is  admitted  through  the  winter,  and  in  the 
spring  they  are  taken  up  with  nice  ball  of  soil  adhering  to  the  roots, 
and  planted  in  a  large  circular  bed  near  the  drawing-room  windows. 
When  this  is  done  carefully  they  flower  well,  and  the  bed  excites 
more  admiration  than  the  happiest  combination  of  bedding  plants  I 
have  ever  had.  It  is  true,  it  delays  the  planting-out  of  summer 
occupants ;  but  as  sufficient  are  always  grown  in  48's  for  plant- 
ing this  bed,  so  as  to  produce  an  immediate  effect,  this  is  of  no 
great  consequence.  This  could  not  be  well  carried  out  all  over  the 
garden,  but  for  beds  which  are  close  to  the  windows  it  is  worth  a 
moment's  thought  as  to  whether  it  cannot  be  managed.  The  three 
colours  of  white,  rose,  and  scarlet  are  grown,  and  Mr.  Smith,  of  the 
Hornsey  Road,  has  a  beautiful  new  lilac-flowered  variety,  which  I 
shall  obtain  at  the  first  opportunity.  J.  T. 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  23' 


A  NOTE  ON  CROPPING  AND  THINNING  GRAPE  VINES. 

[F  the  Floral  Wobld  has  many  readers  as  thoroughly 
interested  as  the  writer  in  grape-growing-,  which  is  one 
of  the  most  fascinating  of  all  pursuits  connected  with  the 
garden,  no  excuse  will  be  needed  for  the  insertion  of 
some  remarks  thereupon.  My  experience  extends  no 
further  back  than  five  years ;  but  during  that  time,  I  have  not  only 
observed  closely,  but  have  also  read  all  the  works  upon  the  subject 
I  could  procure,  and  have  looked  in  vain  for  instructions  upon  two 
important  points  :  viz.,  the  crop  it  is  safe  to  take  from  a  vine ;  and 
directions  for  thinning  the  berries.  Granting  that  it  is  difficult  to 
give  definite  rules,  on  account  of  the  vines  being  of  different  degrees 
of  strength,  having  larger  or  less  surface  for  foliage,  or  being  planted 
in  borders  of  different  sizes,  I  may  state  that  my  experience  has  led 
me  to  the  following  practice  on  these  points  : — 

Pirst,  as  to  cropping.  One  lateral  only  should  be  grown  on 
each  spur  on  a  stout  rod  (five  years  from  planting,  seven  years 
from  bud)  ;  if  forty  laterals  can  be  counted,  it  is  safe  to  leave 
twenty  good  sized  bunches,  that  is  bunches  measuring  from  eight  to 
twelve  inches  long  from  the  shoulder  to  the  extreme  point.  With 
regard  to  thinning,  varieties  such  as  Black  Ham  burghs,  Mill  Hill 
Hamburghs,  Buckland  Sweetwater,  and  White  Prontignans,  may 
be  safely  thinned  when  the  size  of  small  peas ;  and  my  practice  is 
this  : — For  two  inches  at  bottom  of  bunch,  leave  one  berry  only  on 
a  stem  ;  for  the  next  two  inches,  two  berries  may  be  left ;  the  next  two 
inches,  three  berries.  Above  these  come  the  shoulders,  to  be  treated 
in  like  manner  ;  viz,  one,  two,  and  three  berries  according  to  length. 
If  these  rules  are  observed,  the  bunch  should  not  be  touched  again 
until  the  berries  are  the  size  of  large  peas,  when  the  shoulders  and 
the  bunches  of  three  berries  should  be  properly  tied  out  with 
narrow  shreds  of  strong  bast.  Do  not  use  lead  wire  ;  take  care  not  to 
raise  the  shoulders  above  the  horizontal.  After  this,  nothing  should 
touch  these  precious  berries  until  gently  taken  by  the  stalk  and 
pressed  to  the  lips  of  the  fortunate  individual  who  is  to  feast  upon 
the  delicious  morsel.  Lady  Downes,  the  Muscats,  and  Trentham 
Black  I  find  must  be  left  longer  before  thinning,  it  being  more 
difficult  to  discern  which  berries  will  come  to  maturity.  The  two 
former  appear  to  have  a  habit  of  not  stoning  properly,  which  I 
suppose  to  be  caused  by  want  of  sufficient  heat  at  flowering-time, 
in  consequence  of  their  being  grown  with  the  more  hardy  kinds. 
These  should  not  be  thinned  so  early  as  the  others,  but  they  must  be 
thinned  upon  the  same  plan,  and  at  one  operation.  By  this  method 
of  procedure,  not  only  are  nice  clean-looking  bunches  produced, 
as  when  thinned  early  the  young  stems  die  away  without  decaying, 
but  all  the  sap  is  utilized,  and  large  berries  perfectly  covered  with 
their  lovely  bloom  are  secured. 

:  Thanking  you  for  guidance  upon  this  and  many  other  subjects, 
I  would  yet  put  an  inquiry  to  grape-growers  with  respect  to  shank- 
ing.    For  two  or  three  years  out  of  my  five,  shanking  of  a  few 


234  THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

berries  has  occurred.  I  have  not  always  been  so  free  in  removing 
the  bunches  as  now,  and  over-cropping  may  have  been  the  cause ;  but 
has  not  the  heavy  syringing  which  is  customary  in  many  vineries 
something  to  do  with  it,  through  the  moisture  laying  upon  aud 
rotting  the  stems  of  the  berries.  Before  the  present  season,  my 
vines  were  drenched  two  or  three  times  a  day,  except  when  in  bloom  ; 
but  in  consequence  of  a  remark  in  your  valuable  work,  not  a  drop  of 
water  has  reached  the  foliage  or  berries  this  year,  and  the  only 
moisture  in  the  house  has  been  produced  by  wetting  the  tile  flooring 
several  times  a  day. 

I  may  add,  much  to  my  own  satisfaction,  that  my  vinery,  started 
the  middle  of  March,  and  pushed  on  very  gradually,  with  abundance 
of  ventilation  during  the  day  and  a  little  at  night,  now  presents  a 
very  handsome  appearance,  being  well  furnished  with  healthy  foliage 
and  fiuely-shaped  bunches,  varying  from  eight  to  twelve  inches  in 
length,  on  which  the  berries  (now  about  half  developed)  are  free 
from  rust,  finger  marks,  or  any  other  disfigurement.  This  is  their 
present  state,  but  I  must  not  "  crow  before  I  am  out  of  the  wood," 
and  every  grape  grower  knows  the  most  serious  disasters  generally 
appear  after  this  stage.  If  my  remarks  are  likely  to  prove  useful  to 
others,  or  elicit  information,  please  insert  at  your  convenience. 
Biiital  Road,  Birmingham.  Amateur. 


TODEA  WILKESIANA. 

HE  beautiful  miniature  TreeEernto  which  we  have  now 
much  pleasure  in  directing  the  attention  of  our  readers, 
was  first  discovered  in  Ovolan,  one  of  the  Fiji  Islands, 
by  the  botanist  attached  to  an  exploring  expedition, 
sent  out  by  the  United  States  of  America.  It  is  allied 
to  the  beautiful  Todea  Fraseri,  which  is  now  known  as  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  of  filmy  ferns ;  but  it  is  of  larger  growth  and  has  an 
arborescent  habit.  The  trunks  of  the  native  specimens  are  said  to 
range  from  eighteen  to  twenty  inches  in  height,  and  about  an  inch 
and  a  half  in  diameter,  and  are  usually  surmounted\vith  about 
twelve  broad  lanceolate  fronds,  two  feet  in  length,  and  most  elegant 
in  outline.  The  parent  plant  (of  which  the  accompanying  illustra- 
tion is  a  most  excellent  portrait)  in  the  possession  of  Messrs. 
Veitch  and  Sons,  of  the  Royal  Exotic  JNursery,  King's  Road, 
Chelsea,  to  whom  the  honour  of  the  introduction  to  English  gardens 
of  this  fine  fern  is  due,  has  a  trunk  about  twelve  inches  in  length, 
and  an  inch  in  diameter,  which,  surmounted  by  its  elegant  plumy 
fronds,  gives  it  an  indescribably  charming  appearance.  It  was 
found  principally  growing  in  the  humid  forests  of  the  island  referred 
to  above;  and  like  its  congeners  Todea  Fraseri  and  Todea  (Leii- 
topteris)  sujjerba,  will  under  cultivation  require  a  close  damp 
situation  in  the  fern-house,  unless  it  is  grown,  as  it  should  be,  in  a 
glass  case,  in  the  same  manner  as  the  above-mentioned  species  are 
usually  cultivated.  The  present  species  is  now  in  course  of  distri- 
bution by  Messrs.  Veitch  and  Sons,  and  is  certainly  well  worthy 
of  a  place  in  the  most  select  collection  of  stove  ferns. 


W 


fc  \ 


« 


236  THE  FLORAL   WORLD   AND   GARDEN    GUIDE. 

FOEMING  AND  PLANTING  THE  AMERICAN  GAEDEN. 

BY    ROBERT    OUBRIDGE, 
Church  Walk  Nursery,  Stoku  Newington,  W. 

JUDICIOUSLY  arranged  and  well  furnished  American 
garden  presents  such  a  glorious  appearance  during  the 
early  summer  months,  and  has  such  a  bright  and  cheer- 
ful look  at  all  other  periods,  that  the  cost  of  its  for- 
mation will  always  be  well  repaid.  Hitherto,  American 
plants,  such  as  the  hardy  rhododendrons  and  azaleas,  have  not 
perhaps  received  so  much  attention  as  they  deserve,  through  its 
being  supposed  that  they  will  not  thrive  iu  anything  but  sandy  peat ; 
whereas  they  will  grow  freely  and  flower  abundantly  in  almost  any 
light  and  friable  soil. 

The  situation  selected  for  the  formation  of  the  American  garden, 
should  be  in  a  rather  secluded  part  of  the  grounds,  so  that  visitors 
need  not  go  through  it  excepting  when  the  plants  are  in  bloom. 
But  when  the  cultivation  of  American  plants  is  limited  to  a  few 
beds  upon  the  lawn,  they  should  be  planted  at  the  farthest  point 
from  the  windows  of  the  dwelling-house,  and  the  dark  foliage  will 
form  an  admirable  background  to  the  beds  of  flowering  plants.  A 
picturesque  arrangement  of  the  beds  with  winding  walks  between 
them  is  undoubtedly  the  best  that  could  be  devised  when  the 
American  garden  is  shut  in  from  the  other  parts  of  the  ground,  but 
a  group  of  circular,  oblong,  or  oval  beds,  surrounded  with  a  raised 
bank  of  evergreens,  will  be  sufficient  for  small  gardens,  and  in 
many  cases  the  most  desirable  plan  to  adopt,  because  of  its  simplicity 
and  the  small  amount  of  expense  attached  to  the  preparation  of  the 
ground  and  the  formation  of  the  beds. 

When  the  beds  are  upon  the  lawn,  and  form  part  of  the  general 
arrangements,  they  must  of  course  conform  in  size  and  shape  to 
those  devoted  to  the  ordinary  bedding  and  flowering  plants. 
In  low-lying  and  damp  situations,  it  will  be  advantageous  to 
raise  beds  nine  or  twelve  inches  above  the  level,  to  prevent  the 
possibility  of  the  roots  perishing  through  being  submerged  in 
water  during  the  winter  months.  These  plants,  however,  require  an 
abundance  of  moisture  at  the  roots  when  making  new  growth,  and 
therefore  the  bed  must  not  be  elevated  at  all,  unless  the  condition 
of  the  sub-soil  during  the  winter  mouths  is  such  as  to  render  it 
imperatively  necessary.  Generally  speaking,  a  layer  of  broken 
stones  or  brickbats,  to  a  depth  of  twelve  or  fifteen  inches  under  the 
soil  of  which  the  bed  consists,  will  be  sufficient  to  keep  the  roots  safe. 
In  the  preparation  of  the  beds,  the  first  steps  it  will  be  necessary 
to  take  will  be  to  remove  the  soil  to  a  depth  of  three  feet,  if  the  sub- 
soil is  of  a  retentive  character,  and  two  feet  if  it  is  sufficiently  open  to 
absorb  the  superfluous  moisture.  The  extra  twelve  inches  is  for 
the  drainage,  which  may  consist  of  any  loose  rubble,  such  as  broken 
stones  or  brickbats.  The  drainage  should  be  put  in  with  a  certain 
amount  of  care  to  insure  its  being  of  one  depth,  and  one  degree  of 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  237 

solidity  over  the  bottom.  The  best  compost  that  could  possibly  be 
devised  for  filling  the  beds  with,  may  be  prepared  by  well  incor- 
porating together  two  parts  each  of  turfy  loam  and  fibry  peat,  and 
one  part  each  of  leaf-mould  and  road  or  river  sand.  Where  peat 
cannot  be  had  without  a  considerable  expense  being  incurred,  a 
mixture  consisting  of  two  parts  loam,  and  half  a  part  each  of  leaf- 
mould,  decayed  cow-dung,  and  sand,  should  be  employed.  A  depth 
of  two  feet  will  be  quite  sufficient  for  all  but  extra  large  specimens  ; 
and  previous  to  filling  in  the  soil,  put  a  layer  of  thin  turves  over  the 
rubble  if  it  is  considered  desirable  to  place  a  layer  in  the  bottom  of 
the  bed.  Unless  the  loose  material  is  covered  with  a  layer  of  turf  or 
some  other  covering,  a  considerable  proportion  of  the  finer  portion 
of  the  soil  will,  previous  to  its  becoming  consolidated,  run  down  into 
the  crevices  and  impede  the  escape  of  the  surplus  water  after  the 
heavy  rains  or  artificial  waterings. 

The  month  of  August  is  the  most  suitable  for  planting  rhodo- 
dendrons ;  but  they  may,  in  common  with  other  American  plants,  be 
planted  in  the  two  following  months  with  every  reasonable  prospect 
of  success.  A  few  liberal  waterings,  after  the  beds  are  planted, 
will  be  necessary  if  the  weather  happens  to  set  in  dry,  and  a  sprinkle 
overhead  in  the  evening  of  bright  sunny  days  will  be  of  immense 
service  in  enabling  them  to  become  established.  In  planting  mixed 
beds,  the  rhododendrons  should  be  put  in  the  centre,  the  azaleas 
next  to  them,  and  a  i'ew  dwarf-growing  subjects,  such  as  the  hardy 
heaths  and  androraedas,  round  the  outside,  to  hide  the  bare  stems 
of  the  azaleas  when  they  are  leafless  during  the  winter  months. 
AVhen  once  established,  they  practically  take  care  of  themselves, 
for  beyond  the  removal  of  a  branch  now  and  then  that  is  taking 
the  lead  of  others  on  the  same  plant,  they  require  no  pruning  or 
training.  In  dry  seasons,  soaking  the  beds  thoroughly  with  water 
once  or  twice  a  week  until  the  completion  of  the  young  growth, 
will  be  of  immense  assistance;  but  if  the  watering  is  continued 
after  the  young  growth  is  made,  the  plants  will  probably  make  a 
second  growth,  instead  of  forming  flower-buds,  and  in  the  majority 
of  seasons  they  will  be  able  to  take  care  of  themselves.  The 
varieties  of  llhododendron  pouticum  are  cheap  and  effective;  but 
they  are  decidedly  inferior  to  the  following  hybrids,  which  comprise 
the  best  in  cultivation,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  of  the  newest, 
which  are  at  present  too  expensive  to  include  in  a  list  of  this  kind  : — 
Alarm,  Album  elegans,  Album  grandiflorum,  Archimedes,  Atrosan- 
guineum,  Barclayanum,  Blandijanum,  Brayanum,  Bylsianum,  Charles 
Dickens,  Concessum,  Omentum,  Delicatissima,  Elfrida,  Everestianum, 
Fastuosum  florepleno,  Francis  Dickson,  Guido,  Hogarth,  John 
Spencer,  John  Waterer,  Lady  Armstrong,  Lady  Clermont,  Lady 
Eleanor  Ga'hcart,  Lady  Francis  Grossley,  Lord  John  Russell, 
Lucidum,  Maculatum  superbum,  Magnum  Bonum,  Mdnei,  Minnie, 
Mrs.  John  Glutton,  Mrs.  John  Waterer,  Mrs.  B.  S.  Holford,  Mrs. 
William  Bovill,  Ne  Flits  Ultra,  Nero,  Perfection,  Purity,  Boseum 
ehgans,  Boseum  grandiflorum,  Standard  of  Flanders,  Stella,  isher- 
u-oodianum,  The  Queen,  The  Warrior,  Titian,  Victoria,  William 
Austin,  William  Downing. 


238  THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 

The  "best  of  the  hardy  or  Ghent  Azaleas  are : — Amoena, 
Aniens,  Aurantia  major,  Bessie  Holdaway,  ■  Calendulacea  eximia, 
Coccinea  major,  Coccinea  speciosa,  Cuprea,  Guprea  splendens,  Elector, 
Elegans,  Florentine,  Fulgida,  Gloria  Mundi,  Inviclissima,  Maria 
Dorothe,  Maria  Verschaffelt,  Mirabilis,  Nancy  Waterer,  Prince 
Frederick,  Speciosa  atrosanguinea,  Straminea,  Sulphurea,  Van 
Houtte,  Viscocephala.  Few  people  are  aware  of  the  brilliant  effect 
these  plants  are  capable  of  producing,  when  planted  in  masses,  in 
prominent  positions  in  the  pleasure  grounds  and  shrubbery  gardens. 

For  belts  and  marginal  lines  round  the  outside  of  beds  filled 
with  azaleas  and  rhododendrons,  the  following  selection  of  dwarf- 
growing  plants  will  be  useful : — Andromeda  fioribunda,  A.  formosa, 
A.  pulverulenta,  Dap/me  cneorum  majus,  Erica  cinerea  alba  grandi- 
flora,  E.  c.  atropurpurea,  E.  c.  coccinea,  E.  c.  rubra,  E.  herbacea 
carnea,  E.  vagans  carnea,  E.  v.  rubra,  E.  v.  alba,  Menziesia  poli- 
folia  alba,  31.  p.  atropurpurea,  Kalmia  angustifolia  glauca,  K. 
a.  ruba,  K.  glauca,  K.  g.  svperba,  K.  latifolia  major  splendens,  K.  I. 
inyrtifolia,  Ledum  buxifolmm,  L.  thymifolium,  Perneltya  mucronata, 
Folygala  chamcebuxus,  Vaccinium  frondosum  venustum,  V.  ligustri- 
folium. 

To  render  the  American  garden  bright  and  cheerful  at  all 
seasons  of  the  year,  a  few  clumps  of  the  choicer  kinds  of  Liliums 
and  the  showier  Gladioli  should  be  intermixed  with  the  other  plants. 
From  four  to  eight  bulbs  should  be  planted  in  each  clump. 


THE  BEGINNER  IN  GRAPE- GEO  WING.— No.  VI. 

BY   WILLIAM   COLE, 

Head  Gardener,  Ealing  Park,  Middlesex. 

THE     MANAGEMENT     OE     TOT     VINES. 


HE  management  of  vines  grown  and  fruited  in  pots 
requires  more  skill  and  attention  than  those  planted 
out  in  a  properly- prepared  border;  yet,  where  early 
grapes  are  in  request  and  the  space  available  for  grape 
growing  limited,  they  are  most  valuable,  because  with 
their  aid  a  supply  of  early  grapes  may  be  had  without  starting  the 
permanent  vines,  in  the  house  from  which  the  main  crop  is  obtained 
very  early  in  the  season.  'Vines  in  pots  are  also  most  valuable  for 
table  and  sideboard  decoration,  and  a  considerable  number  are 
grown  here  for  these  purposes. 

Until  after  they  are  put  in  pots  larger  than  six  inches  in  diameter, 
the  directions  given  lor  the  management  of  young  vines  grown  ex- 
pressly for  planting  out,  when  speaking  of  their  propagation,  applies 
with  equal  force  to  those  intended  for  pot  culture.  Therefore, 
to   avoid   repetition,  we  will   commence  with  their   management, 


THE   FLORAL    AYORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  239 

after  they  are  established  in  the  sized  pots  referred  to  above. 
After  arriving  at  this  stage,  they  require  two  shifts  only ;  the 
first  into  ten-inch  pots,  and  the  second  into  others  three  inches 
larger  in  diameter,  which  are  quite  large  enough  for  all  ordinary 
purposes.  It  is  necessary  to  observe,  in  connection  with  this  point, 
that  at  all  stages  of  their  growth  the  vines  must  be  repotted  im- 
mediately the  roots  begin  to  run  round  the  sides  of  the  pot,  and 
on  no  account  must  they  be  allowed  to  become  pot-bound;  for  when 
the  supply  of  food  is  exhausted  the  bark  soon  becomes  set,  and  the 
canes  commence  to  ripen  prematurely ;  and  when  the  young  rods 
begin  to  ripen  before  they  are  half-grown,  they  seldom  make  canes 
sufficiently  strong  to  produce  a  good  crop  of  grapes  the  following 
season.  It  is  from  checks  of  this  description,  and  letting  the  plants 
suffer  from  dryness  at  the  root,  that  many  growers  fail  in  growing 
the  canes  to  a  fruiting  size  the  first  season,  and  require  two  years 
from  the  time  of  striking  the  eyes  before  they  can  look  for  any  fruit. 
The  whole  of  my  vines  are  grown  to  a  fruiting  size  the  first  season,with 
the  exception  of  about  a  couple  of  dozen  for  starting  in  the  begin- 
ning of  October  for  the  earliest  crop ;  and  this  batch  is  raised  from 
eyes  put  in  a  month  later  than  that  specified  above,  and  the  vines 
are  cut  down  the  following  autumn,  root-pruned,  and  repotted. 

Vines  in  pots  will  seldom  carry  and  finish  off  well  more  than 
from  six  to  eight  bunches,  and  to  do  that  not  more  than  eight  feet 
length  of  rod  is  required  ;  therefore  all  the  wood  beyond  that  length 
has  to  be  cut  away.  Now  a  very  common  practice,  and  one  which 
cannot  be  too  strongly  condemned,  is  to  allow  the  vines  to  grow 
unchecked,  and  then  at  the  winter  pruning  to  cut  them  back  to  the 
length  required.  By  this  system  the  whole  of  the  best  buds  and 
those  most  likely  to  produce  good  bunches  are  cut  away,  and  small 
weakly  bunches  are  the  natural  result.  To  do  away  with  the  neces- 
sity of  having  to  cut  away  the  best  portion  of  the  wood,  and  at  the 
same  time  to  strengthen  as  much  as  possible  that  portion  whereon 
the  fruit  is  expected,  considerable  attention  must  be  paid  to  summer 
pruning.  The  vines  should  be  stopped  three  or  four  times  during 
the  growing  season.  Those  growing  with  ordinary  vigour  are 
stopped  at  every  three  feet,  and  those  which  may  happen  to  be 
rather  weak  are  stopped  at  two  feet.  When  vines  are  pinched  back 
so  closely  as  this,  some  little  care  must  be  exercised  in  dealing  with 
the  laterals,  or  there  will  be  a  risk  of  the  main  buds  starting.  But 
the  safest  course  to  pursue  is  to  let  the  laterals  run  out  with  from 
three  to  four  leaves  each  before  the  first  stopping,  and  afterwards 
stop  the  second  crop  of  laterals  at  one  leaf  from  the  point  where 
they  emanate  from  the  original  laterals ;  and  it  should  be  borne  in 
mind  not  to  stop  the  laterals  and  the  main  growth  at  the  same  time. 
It  is  hardly  necessary  to  say  that  attention  must  be  paid  to  keeping 
the  plants  regularly  supplied  with  water  when  in  full  growth,  to 
prevent  the  wood  ripening  off  before  it  has  reached  its  full  size. 
The  importance  of  training  the  young  vines  close  to  the  glass,  and 
giving  them  the  advantage  of  a  full  exposure  to  all  the  light  and  air 
consistent  with  their  tender  and  delicate  condition,  so  as  to  keep 
them  as  short-jointed  and  hard  as  possible,  cannot  be  too  strongly 


240  THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND   GARDEN   GUIDE. 

advocated ;  and  here  they  are  trained  to  the  roof  of  the  pine-stove, 
or  between  the  vines  in  one  of  the  early  vineries.  With  ordinary 
management  the  growth  will  be  completed  by  Ihe  end  of  August, 
and  the  vines  ready  for  going  out  of  doors  the  first  or  second  week 
in  September. 

When  the  young  vines  are  taken  out  of  doors,  train  them  to  a 
south  wall,  and  allow  them  to  remain  there  for  about  six  weeks,  and 
keep  the  soil  rather  dry,  to  check  the  growth  and  thoroughly  ripen 
the  wood.  The  stock  of  young  vines  intended  for  starting  in  the 
middle  of  October  of  the  following  year  are  cut  back  to  a  couple  of 
eyes  some  time  in  December,  taken  out  of  the  pots,  and  after  the 
ball  of  soil  is  reduced,  root-pruned,  and  repotted  into  ten-inch  pots, 
and  started  in  a  temperature  of  about  50°.  These  should  be 
shifted  into  the  fruiting-pots  as  soon  as  they  are  nicely  rooted,  and 
the  same  attention  paid  to  stopping  as  already  advised.  At  the 
first  potting  these  should  be  kept  down,  so  that  the  buds  are  just 
above  the  surface  of  the  soil ;  and  at  the  second  shift  the  base  of 
the  young  growth  should  be  just  below  the  surface,  which  will 
enable  it  to  emit  a  nice  lot  of  young  roots  into  the  fresh  soil.  Great 
stress  is  laid  by  some  cultivators  upon  the  advantage  derived  from 
the  use  of  bottom-heat  in  growing  the  young  vines,  but  they  are 
assuredly  better  without  it.  The  bottom-heat  encourages  the  pro- 
duction of  thick  fleshy  roots,  which  frequently  perish  through  the 
resting  season,  and  are  therefore  of  no  assistance  to  the  vines  in 
bringing  the  crops  to  perfection.  These  will  complete  their  growth 
and  be  ready  for  taking  out  of  doors  towards  the  end  of  July,  which 
gives  them  a  good  rest  before  starting.  This  is  the  only  reason  for 
two  seasons  being  required  to  grow  them  in,  as  plants  can  be  grown 
plenty  large  enough  in  the  first  season,  and,  in  fact,  I  prefer  the 
one-year  vines  for  the  other  crops ;  but  there  is  not  sufficient  time 
for  them  to  have  a  thorough  rest  between  completing  their  growth 
and  the  time  for  starting.  It  is  of  very  little  use  to  expect  much 
success  unless  the  vines  are  thoroughly  rested. 

The  next  subject  that  must  engage  our  attention  is  the  fruiting 
process.  As  already  stated,  three  batches  of  pot-vines  are  started 
here  :  the  first  lot  in  the  middle  of  October,  to  furnish  grapes  in 
February,  which  come  in  just  before  our  earliest  vinery  ;  the  other 
two  batches  are  grown  for  table  decoration,  and  started  at  intervals 
of  a  month  each.  The  vines  are  pruned  and  washed,  and  some 
eight-inch  pots,  with  large  holes  in  the  bottom,  are  placed  on  the 
top  of  the  soil  (passing  the  rod  through  the  hole  in  the  bottom), 
and  filled  w  ith  the  same  soil  as  the  vines  are  potted  in.  These  are 
soon  filled  with  roots,  and  are  of  great  service  in  assisting  the  vines 
with  a  fresh  supply  of  food.  When  this  is  finished,  the  vines  are 
placed  in  a  temperature  of  45°  by  night  and  50°  by  day,  and 
the  pots  partly  plunged  in  a  gentle  bottorn-heat  of  about  70°. 
and  frequently  syringed.  The  walls  and  paths  are  also  sprinkled  to 
keep  the  atmosphere  moist.  In  a  fortnight  after  the  vines  are 
placed  in  heat,  the  temperature  should  be  allowed  to  range  between 
50°  and  55°  by  night,  with  a  proportionate  rise  by  day.  This 
should  be  continued  for  another  fortnight,  and  increased  to  65°, 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  241 

which  must  be  continued  until  the  beginning  of  January,  when 
the  night  temperature  should  range  from  70°  to  75°,  accord- 
ing to  the  weather,  and  that  of  the  day  from  75°  to  80\ 
Syringing  overhead  must  be  discontinued  when  the  young  buds  are 
a  couple  of  inches  long ;  but  the  atmospheric  moisture  must  be 
regularly  kept  up  until  the  berries  begin  to  colour,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  when  the  grapes  are  in  bloom  ;  at  that  season  it  must  be 
kept  rather  dry,  but  not  so  thoroughly  dry  as  we  frequently  see 
practised. 

The  bunches  should  be  thinned  immediately  the  berries  are  large 
enough,  and  not  more  than  six  or  eight  bunches  allowed  to  each 
vine,  as  these  numbers  are  as  many  as  an  ordinary  vine  will  finish 
off  well.  When  they  are  first  brought  into  the  house,  those  iutended 
for  training  up  the  roof  should  be  brought  down  horizontallv,  to 
equalize  the  flow  of  sap  and  insure  the  bottom  buds  breaking 
strongly.  Those  intended  for  dinner-table  decoration  are  fixed  to 
trainers,  made  with  stout  iron  rods,  about  three  feet  high,  and  with 
three  prongs  at  the  bottom,  made  to  fit  inside  the  small  pot,  and  a 
ring  of  stout  wire  on  the  top,  forming  a  flat  trellis  of  two  feet  across, 
to  which  the  vines  are  trained.  It  is  not  necessary  to  bend  these 
down,  as  all  the  buds  on  the  trellis  will  be  on  the  same  level.  The 
buds  which  break  up  the  stem  should  be  removed  as  fast  as  they 
make  their  appearance. 

The  compost  in  which  the  vines  are  grown  consists  of  good  turfy 
loam  chopped  up  roughly,  and  mixed  with  two  pecks  of  partly- 
decayed  horse-droppings,  and  half  a  peck  of  "  inch  "  bones,  to  each 
barrowfal.  "When  in  full  growth,  we  give  them  weak  manure-water 
about  twice  a  week,  and  clear  water  when  required.  The  vines  must 
not  be  allowed  to  suffer  for  want  of  water,  for  when  that  happens 
more  mischief  is  done  than  is  commonly  supposed,  and  I  have  known 
more  than  one  total  failure  ensue  from  this  cause.  Some  growers 
allow  them  to  become  so  dry  that  a  large  proportion  of  the  roots 
perish,  and  then  wonder  why  the  grapes  shank,  or  are  deficient  in 
colour.  Too  much  water  is  quite  as  injurious  as  not  enough  ;  the 
vines,  therefore,  should  have  no  more  than  is  sufficient  to  keep  them 
in  a  free,  healthy,  growing  condition.  The  whole  of  the  pot- vines 
here  are  started  in  a  house  used  for  growing  pine-suckers  through 
the  summer,  and  when  sufficiently  advanced  to  bear  the  heat  of  the 
fruiting  pinery  are  removed  into  that  structure,  where  they  remain 
until  the  grapes  are  ripe.  "We  thus  obtain  a  good  lot  of  grapes 
with  no  expenditure  for  fuel  beyond  what  is  required  for  starting 
them. 

Destroying  Ants. — Powdered  chalk  has  heen  recommended  for  driving 
ants  out  of  melon  frames.  The  chalk  should  be  sprinkled  over  the  surface  of 
the  bed.  Thousands  may  be  destroyed  in  a  very  short  space  of  time  with  the  aid  of 
a  sponge  and  a  little  powdered  "lump"  sugar.  A  rather  course  sponge  is  preferable, 
and  it  should  be  placed  in  an  earthenware  saucer,  such  as  flower-pots  are  stood  in, 
and  then  sprinkle  all  over  with  finely-powdered  sugar.  Stand  the  saucer  upon  the 
soil,  and  in  a  very  short  time  the  ants  will  swarm  into  the  sponge,  and  may  then  be 
destroyed  by  shaking  them  out  of  the  sponge  into  a  vessel  of  hot  water.  Replace  the 
sponge  in  the  saucer,  shake  more  sugar  over  it,  and  replace  in  the  frame  again,  and 
repeat  every  morning  until  the  frame  is  cleared  of  these  pests.  We  cannot  possiblv 
answer  letters  privately. 

VOL.   VI. — KO.   VIII.  1G 


212  TEE    FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

CAPE  COWSLIPS. 

BY   THOMAS    TBTTSSLEE, 
Head  Gardener,  High  Leigh,  Hoddesden,  Herts. 


HE  pretty  pendulous-flowered  Lachenalias  are  easily 
grown,  readily  propagated,  and  moreover  continue  in 
flower  such  a  length  of  time,  that  in  directing  attention 
to  them  I  feel  bound  to  express  my  surprise  that  they 
are  not  more  generally  cultivated  in  small  gardens.  All 
those  at  present  in  cultivation  are  useful  for  forming  edgings  to 
flower-beds  in  prominent  positions,  which  are  filled  with  hyacinths, 
and  other  bulbous  plants  that  flower  in  spring.  But  they  are 
most  valuable  for  the  decoration  of  the  conservatory  and  indoor 
apartments,  because  they  are  so  neat  in  growth,  showy  in  appear- 
ance, and  are  not  quickly  affected  by  draughts,  and  other  injurious 
influences  to  which  flowering  plants,  placed  in  indoor  apartments, 
are  usually  exposed. 

A  very  few  words  will  suffice  to  show  the  manner  in  which  they 
should  be  managed  to  produce  robust  plants  and  large  well-deve- 
loped spikes  of  flowers.  Eor  flowering  early,  pot  a  batch  of  bulbs 
either  in  the  second  or  third  week  in  August.  To  succeed  the  first 
batch,  and  to  bloom  without  the  aid  of  artificial  heat,  September  is 
a  capital  time  for  giving  them  their  annual  shift.  In  putting  them 
in  fresh  pots,  first  take  them  out  of  the  pots,  and  then  separate  the 
large  bulbs,  which  may  be  expected  to  flower,  from  the  small  offsets 
which  have  formed  round  them  during  the  past  season.  After  this 
is  done,  pot  them  at  the  rate  of  six  bulbs  to  each  six-inch  pot,  in 
good  fibry  loam  two  parts,  and  one  part  each  of  rotten  dung  and 
leaf-mould,  with  a  sprinkling  of  silver-sand.  Bury  the  bulbs  about 
an  inch  below  the  surface,  and  fill  the  soil  in  rather  firm.  When 
the  potting  is  completed,  place  the  pots  in  a  cold  frame,  and  apply 
just  sufficient  soft  water  to  keep  the  soil  moist,  and  thus  enable  the 
bulbs  to  make  a  good  start.  When  the  young  leaves  make  their 
appearance  above  the  surface  of  the  soil,  it  will  be  well  to  place  a 
portion  of  the  stock  in  the  greenhouse,  and  from  thence,  after  a  few 
weeks'  stay,  into  the  forcing-house,  or  other  structure,  where  they 
can  have  the  aid  of  a  gentle  warmth,  with  the  advantage  of  plenty 
of  light  and  air.  The  foliage  of  Lachenalias  soon  becomes  drawn  if 
they  are  placed  in  close  confinement,  or  a  high  temperature ;  there- 
fore they  should  be  kept  near  the  glass,  where  they  can  enjoy  the 
full  advantage  of  the  light,  and  just  sufficient  air  to  keep  the  growth 
dwarf  and  sturdy,  and  only  have  sufficient  warmth  to  maintain  a 
steady  growth.  The  second  lot  should  be  taken  to  the  greenhouse 
a  fortnight  or  three  weeks  later,  and  not  have  any  artificial  heat  ; 
and  a  third  batch  to  succeed  these  may  be  left  in  the  frame  until 
they  begin  to  come  into  flower.  By  this  arrangement  a  continuous 
supply  can  be  kept  up  for  a  period  of  about  three  months. 

Water  must  be  applied  freely  after  the  pots  are  filled  with  roots, 
and  the  growth  has  made  considerable  progress  above  ground.     With 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  243 

the  compost  prepared  in  the  manner  here  described,  very  little 
manure-water  will  be  required,  and,  in  unskilful  hands,  its  use  had 
better  be  dispensed  with.  When  the  flowers  begin  to  fade,  the  plants 
should  be  removed  back  to  the  cold  frame,  and  have  the  lights  drawn 
over  them  in  wet  or  frosty  weather.  Allow  them  to  remain  there  until 
the  growth  is  completed,  and  then  the  water  supply  must  be  lessened  in 
a  gradual  manner,  and  finally  withheld.  As  the  foliage  dies  away,  place 
the  pots  on  their  sides  in  Mich  a  manner  as  will  prevent  any  water 
reaching  the  soil.  Frequently  cultivators  stand  the  pots  out  of 
doors  without  attention  until  they  are  repotted,  and  the  bulbs,  for 
lack  of  a  sufficient  supply  of  moisture  before  they  have  finished  the 
season's  growth,  are  dried  up,  and,  as  a  matter  of  course,  do  not 
attain  their  full  size.  Or,  on  the  other  baud,  in  a  rainy  seasorj, 
they  continue  growing  too  long,  and  are,  therefore,  unable  to  become 
thoroughly  matured  before  the  time  arrives  for  starting  them  a^ain. 
Hence  the  cause  of  the  failures  we  hear  of  occasionally.  The  pots 
with  the  bulbs  at  rest  can  be  stacked  upon  their  sides,  either  indoors 
or  out.  In  the  latter  case,  they  should  have  the  advantage  of  a 
shady  position,  for  it  is  by  no  means  advisable  to  expose  the  bulbs 
to  the  scorching  influence  of  a  summer's  sun.  The  young  offsets 
can  be  planted  thickly  in  the  same  sized  pots,  and  they  will  make 
strong  flowering  bulbs  for  the  following  spring. 

There  is  yet  another  way  in  which  these  plants  can  he  turned 
to  account  for  indoor  decoration.  Instead  of  putting  the  bulbs  in 
pots  in  the  manner  advised  in  the  foregoing  remarks,  take  a  wire 
basket  of  medium  size,  and  place  a  layer  of  moss  entirely  over  the 
wirework,  to  keep  the  soil  in  its  proper  place.  Put  a  layer  of  soil 
over  the  bottom  of  the  basket,  about  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  at  a 
distance  of  three  inches  apart,  insert  the  bulbs  in  the  soil,  with  the 
crown  or  growing  point  downwards  ;  then  proceed  to  fill  the  basket 
with  soil,  and  as  each  three-inch  layer  of  soil  is  added,  put  a  row  of 
bulbs  entirely  round  the  basket  at  a  distance  of  about  two  anif  a-half 
inches  from  each  othar,  with  the  crown  facing  towards  the  wire- 
work.  When  the  basket  is  filled,  plant  the  surface  in  the  ordim-uy 
manner.  Keep  the  basket  in  the  frame  with  the  soil  just  moist  until 
the  young  growth  begins  to  peep  through  the  wire-work,  and  then 
suspend  it  in  the  greenhouse,  and  wafer  more  liberally.  In  a  short 
time  the  whole  basket  will  be  enveloped  in  a  mass  of  foliage,  and  the 
effect  when  the  plants  are  in  bloom  will  be  indescribably  beautiful. 
A  basket  of  Lachenalias,  grown  as  here  advised,  was  exhibited  at 
one  of  the  spring  meetings  of  the  Koyal  Horticultural  Society  at 
South  Kensington,  and  it  was,  as  it  well  deserved,  much  admired 
and  excited  a  considerable  amount  of  interest,  as  few  indeed  were 
those  who  saw  it  who  were  aware  of  the  adaptability  of  these  plants 
for  cultivation  in  suspended  baskets. 

The  best  way  to  grow  them  for  outdoors  is  to  pofc  them  in  much 
the  same  way  as  advised  above,  and  then  grow  them  in  the  cold 
frame,  with  plenty  of  air  to  keep  the  foliage  and  flower-stems  dwarf 
so  that  they  will  be  able  to  resist  all  weathers  when  turned  out. 
The  simplest  way  of  displaying  them  in  the  open  air  is  to  plunge 
the  pots  in  the  beds   or   borders  just  before  the   flowers  are  fully 


244  THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND   GARDEN   GUIDE. 

expanded.  Treated  this  way,  they  are  unequalled  for  forming  edgings 
to  hyacinths  and  tulip  beds.  It  will  not  do  to  push  them  on  in  a 
high  temperature,  or  keep  them  in  a  close  atmosphere  ;  or,  as  soon 
as  they  are  taken  out  of  doors,  the  foliage  will  be  blown  about,  and 
the  flower-spikes  will  probably  be  injured  past  recovery. 

The  following  selection  comprises  the  best  and  most  distinct  sorts 
at  present  in  cultivation,  but  there  are  a  few  others  well  worth 
growing  where  room  can  be  found  for  them  : — 

Laehenalia  tricolor. — Leaves  and  flower-stems  beautifully  spotted ; 
the  latter  average  in  well-grown  specimens  about  eight  or  nine  inches 
in  height,  with  between  twelve  and  eighteen  flowers  on  each  spike ; 
the  colours  are  bright  red,  yellow,  and  green,  which  undergo  several 
changes  as  the  flowers  advance  in  age. 

L.  aurea. — A  remarkably  fine  kind,  with  large  bright  yellow 
flowers. 

L.  pallida. — A  rather  strong  grower,  with  flower-spikes  about  a 
foot  in  height ;  the  flowers  are  large  in  size,  and  of  a  pale  blush 
colour ;  wonderfully  good. 

L.  htieola. — Like  the  preceding,  a  strong  grower,  with  beau- 
tifully spotted  leaves  and  flower-stems  ;  the  latter  grow  about  nine 
inches  in  height,  bearing  fine  large  flowers  of  a  pale  yellow  colour. 

L.  pendvJa. — The  flower-stems  of  this  beautiful  kind  grow  to  a 
height  of  about  twelve  inches,  which,  with  the  foliage,  are  beautifully 
spotted  ;  a  free  grower,  with  fine  large  flowers,  which  are  bright  red, 
37ellow,  and  green  in  colour. 


DAHLIAS.— No.  IV. 

BY    JOHN   WALSH. 
PREPARING  THE  BLOOMS  FOR  EXHIBITION. 

fiE  have  now  arrived  at  a  critical  stage  in  the  growth  of 
the  Dahlia,  and  the  success  or  otherwise  which  will 
attend  the  cultivator's  efforts  will  depend  upon  the 
manner  in  which  the  blooms  are  prepared  for  the 
exhibition  table.  One  of  the  greatest  enemies  the 
cultivator  has  to  contend  with,  is  the  earwigs,  for  they  abound  every- 
where, and  unless  they  are  kept  under  by  trapping  they  will  do  an 
immense  amount  of  mischief;  even  if  they  are  reduced  in  number 
to  the  lowest  possible  minimum,  the  blooms  must  be  carefully  pro- 
tected, for  one  insect  is  quite  sufficient  to  disfigure  and  render  unfit 
for  exhibition  a  very  large  number  of  blooms.  Several  devices 
within  the  last  twenty  years  have  been  introduced  for  the  purpose 
of  trapping  earwigs ;  but  it  is  a  questionable  matter  whether  the 
trap  of  flower-pot  and  moss  has  been  surpassed.  At  all  events, 
nearly  all  the  "leading  growers  for  exhibition  use  no  other  trap,  and 
by  its  aid  keep  this  troublesome  pest  in  subjection.  The  usual  plan 
for  preparing  the  traps  is  to  fill  flower-pots,  five  inches  in  diameter, 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 


245 


about  half  full  of  dry  moss,  aud  then,  to  place  them  bottom  upwards 
upon  the  stakes  supporting  the  growth.  The  end  of  the  stakes  will 
prevent  the  moss  from  falling  out  of  the  pot,  and  the  earwigs  will 
congregate  in  the  moss  during  the  daytime.  Then  if  the  pots  are 
examined  every  morning,  soon  after  eight  o'clock,  all  that  have 
taken  refuge  in  the  moss  can  be  destroyed  by  shaking  them  into  a 
vessel  of  hot  water.  A  large  number  of  pots  may  be  examined  in  a 
very  short  space  of  time  by  taking  the  pot  in  one  hand  and  holdiug 
it  over  the  water,  and  then  drawing  the  moss  out  with  the  other,  and 
giving  it  a  sharp  shake  to  dislodge  the  earwigs;  it  rnay  then  be 
returned  to  the  pot  and  the  latter  replaced  upon  the  stake.  The 
prudent  cultivator  will  not  depend  wholly  upon  the  pots  placed 
upon  the  stakes,  but  will  put  others  bottom  upwards  upon 
the  ground  close  to  the  stem  of  the  plant,  and  elevate  one  side 
sufficiently  to  afford  means  of  ingress.  Ha}r,  or  indeed  any  dry 
material  of  a  similar  character,  may  be  employed  instead  of 
moss  if  more  convenient.  Snails  are  not  capable  of  doing  much 
harm  after  the  plants  are  full-grown,  but  they  should  be  looked 
after  sharply  and  caught  by  laying  cabbage  leaves  on  the  surface 
of  the  border,  as  they  will  take  shelter  underneath  and  may  then 
be  readily  caught  and  destroyed.  The  only  other  insect  pests  that 
are  likely  to  do  much  harm  are  thrips,  and  it  is  only  in  dry  seasons 
that  they  will  be  found  troublesome,  and  the  best  means  of  keeping 
them  in  check  is  by  frequent  washings  of  the  foliage  with  the  garden 
engine  or  syringe.  The  protection  of  the  flowers  from  the  above- 
mentioned  pests  and  the  vicissitudes  of  the  weather  must  now 
engage  our  attention,  and  we  must  at  once  consider  the  most  desir- 
able means  of  effecting  the  desired  object.  First  of  all,  a  number 
of  stakes  of  the  desired  height;  must  be  procured,  and  also  a  number 
of  boards,  seven  inches  square,  and  half  an  inch  in  thickness.  The 
boards  must  have  a  hole  in  the  centre,  with  a  cut  from  one  side  to 
allow  the  stalk  to  pass,  and  a  larger  hole  on  one  side  to  fix  it  on  the 
top  of  the  stalk.  The  buds  are  fixed  in  the  centre  of  the  board  as  soon 
as  they  begin  to  expand,  and  the  space  about  the  stalk  and  the  slit 
iu  the  board  are  packed  with  cotton  wool  to  prevent  the  earwigs 
reaching  the  flower.  The 
blooms  are  then  covered  with 
a  flower-pot  turned  bottom 
upwards,  and  usually  a  cork 
is  placed  in  the  hole  iu  the 
bottom  to  exclude  the  light. 
As  the  colours  of  many  of 
the  varieties  undergo  a  con- 
siderable change  when  the 
blooms  are  kept  in  the  dark, 
it  is  preferable  to  knock  the 
bottom  out  of  the  pot,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  1,  and  then  it 
can  be  covered  with  either 
wire-netting  of  a  very  fine 
mesh,  a  square  of  glass,  clear,  or  painted  to  subdue  the  light,  or  a 
piece  of  thin  board.     The  blooms  of  varieties  that  require  a  con- 


Fig.  1. — Dahlia  covered  with  Flower-pot. 


246 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 


siderable  amount  of  light  may  he  covered  with   small  hell-glasses, 
as  shown  in  Fig.  2,  which  can   he  covered  with   canvas  or  paper, 

or  they  can  he  painted  with  newly- 
made  whitewash,  which  does  not 
wash  off  or  rub  off  so  soon  as 
washes  of  whitening  and  size.  A 
half  globular  frame-work  of  wire, 
about  six  inches  in  diameter,  and 
covered  with  canvas,  forms  a 
capital  shade.  The  frame  should 
be  made  so  that  it  can  be  fixed  to 
the  stakes  at  any  distance  from 
the  top,  and  the  blooms  must  be 
securely  fastened  to  the  stake, 
because  if  they  rub  against  any- 
thing some  of  the  petals  will  be 
damaged  and  the  flowers  rendered 
useless.  The  frames  should  be  fixed  low  enough  down  to  protect 
the  blooms  from    driving  rains.     Some    amateur    growers    simply 


Fig.  2.- 


-Dahlia  covered  with  Bell- 


#'i' 


Fig.  3.— jront  View  of  a  ShjW  Dahlia. 

protect  the  blooms  with  ba^s  of  rather  stout  muslin,  or  rather 
thin  calico,  and  tbey  certainly  answer  uncommonly  well ;  but  they 
are  not  so  good  as  the  boards  and  flower-pots,  or  the  wire  frames. 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND   GARDEN   GUIDE.  247 

The  blooms  are  put  in  the  bugs  before  they  are  far  advanced,  and 
the  hitter  are  drawn  together  at  the  stem,  but  with  sufficient  room 
for  the  flower  to  expand.  In  dry  seasons,  paper  bags  have  been 
frequently  employed  with  good  effect. 

The  "  properties  "  of  the  Dahlia  have  been  settled  many  years 
since ;  but  to  enable  the  young  beginner  to  know  what  to 
look  for  in  making  up  his  stands,  a  short  description  of  what 
a  good  show-flower  should-  be,  will,  in  conjunction  with  the 
accompanying  illustrations  be  of  considerable  service.  First, 
the  flower  should,  in  the  outline  of  the  disc,  present  the  figure 
of  a  circle,  as  shown  in  Fig.  3,  and  in  bulk  form  nearly  two-thirds  of 
a  ball.  The  rows  of  petals  should  describe  regular  rings,  and  should 
lie  over  each  other  as  regularly  and  evenly  as   shown  in   Fig.   4, 


iliP 


Fig.  4. — Side  View  of  a  Show  Dahlia. 

the  sizes  gradually  diminishing  to  the  centre,  which  should  be  well 
up  without  a  trace  of  the  eye  being  visible.  The  petals  should  close 
over  each  other  so  as  to  conceal  their  bases ;  they  should  be  broad 
at  their  ends,  free  from  notch  or  serrature,  firm  in  substance  and 
smooth  in  texture.  They  should  cup  slightly,  but  not  sufficient  to 
show  the  back.  The  colour  should  be  dense  and  clear  ;  and  the 
edged  or  tipped  flowers  should  have  their  tints  clear  and  well  defined. 
The  size  will  of  course  vary  according  to  the  usual  size  of  the 
flowers  of  the  respective  varieties  ;  but  the  larger  the  flowers  are, 
provided  they  show  no  trace  of  coarseness  and  are  otherwise  well 
finished,  the  better. 

The  blooms  should  be  gathered  in  the  evening  of  the  day 
previous  to  the  show,  unless  they  are  intended  for  an  exhibition 
held  a  considerable  distance  from  where  they  were  grown,  and  then 
they  ought  to  be  cut  early  in  the  morning.  They  should  be  put  in 
the  tubes  with  which  the  stand  is  fitted  immediately  they  are  cut. 


243 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 


Fig.  5.— Front  View  of  Pompone  Dahlia. 


and  fixed  securely  with  a  piece  of  cork.  The  best  way  of  fixing  the 
blooms  is  to  pass  the  stems  through  corks,  which  fit  the  tin  tubes 
rather  tight,  and  then  thrust  the  cork  into  the  tube  and  the  flowers 
wnl  then  be  unable  to  move  in  the  slightest  degree.     In  setting  up 

the  stands,  due  regard 
must  be  paid  to  balancing 
the  colours,  so  as  to  pre- 
serve a  proper  balance  and 
to  bring  out  the  colours  of 
the  several  sorts  to  the 
best  possible  advantage. 
Due  regard  must  also  be 
paid  to  the  size  of  the 
blooms,  and  the  largest 
should,  as  far  as  possible 
consistent  with  preserving 
a  proper  balance  of  colours, 
be  placed  in  the  back  row, 
and  the  largest  in  each  row 
placed  towards  the  centre. 
It  is  important  that  the 
blooms  should  be  set  up  in 
stands  properly  made,  and 
of  the  regulation  size.  The 
proper  length  of  a  box  for 

twelve  blooms  is    two    feet ;     for   twenty-four  blooms,    four   feet ; 

and  in  showing  thirty-six  blooms,  a  two  and  a  four  feet  box  should  be 

used ;  and  for  forty-eight  blooms,  two  four-feet  boxes,  and  so  on,  for 

boxes    of  a   greater   length 

than  four  feet  will  be  found 

very  heavy  and  inconvenient 

in  their  transmission  to  and 

from    the    exhibition    tent. 

The  depth  should  be  seven 

inches  at  the  back,  three  and 

a  half  inches  in  front,  and  the 

width    should    be    eighteen 

inches,  for  both  two  and  four 

feet  boxes.      Each  box  will 

take   three   rows    of    tubes, 

the  two  outside  rows  three 

inches  from  the  edge  of  the 

box,    and    the    middle    one 

exactly    down     the    centre. 

The  tubes  should  be  an  inch 

in  diameter,  and  placed  at  a 

distance  of  six  inches  apart 

from   centre  to  centre   in  the   rows.     The   cork   or  wooden   pegs 

should,  when  fixed  in  the  tubes,  stand  an  inch  and  a  half  above  the 

surface  of  the  box  to  hold  the  blooms  up  in  a  bold  manner.     The 

boxes  should  be  painted  a  bright  deep  green. 


Fig.  6. — Side  View  of  Pom)?one  Dahlia. 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE.  249 

The  pompone  varieties  illustrated  in  Figs.  5  and  6  are  of  no  use 
for  show  purposes,  but  they  are  most  valuable  for  the  decoration  of 
the  flower  garden.  They  are  neat  in  growth,  and  flower  mo&t  abund- 
antly ;  they  are  all  well' adapted  for  forming  a  background  to  the 
dwarf-growing  bedding  plants,  or  for  a  front  row  to  the  taller  grow- 
ing show  dahlias.  The  best  sorts  are  those  with  white  and  scarlet 
flowers ;  but  in  the  majority  of  small  gardens  a  mixture  will  be 
preferable. 


THE  GARDEN  GUIDE  EOR  AUGUST. 

Elower  Garden. — All  tall-growing  subjects,  such  as  Dahlias 
and  Hollyhocks,  should  be  staked  as  required,  to  prevent  the  flower- 
ing shoots  being  torn  off  by  the  wind.  Tall-growing  Gladioli,  also, 
ought  to  be  supported  with  neat  sticks,  to  keep  the  flowers  from  the 
ground.  The  Dahlias  must  be  tied  out,  and  the  flower-buds  thinned, 
if  intended  for  exhibition.  Remove  the  flower-spikes  from  all  peren- 
nials immediately  the  beauty  of  the  flower  is  past,  if  the  seed  is  not 
required.  Leaving  the  seed  to  ripen  impoverishes  the  plants  more  or 
less,  besides  having  an  unsightly  appearance.  This  is  a  capital  time 
for  sowing  seed  of  these  things,  as  there  is  plenty  of  time  to  get 
strong  plants  by  the  end  of  autumn,  if  the  seed  is  got  in  early  this 
month.  Sow  in  little  beds  on  a  shady  border,  and  plant  out  directly 
the  plants  are  strong  enough  to  handle.  Propagate  the  stock  of 
bedding-plants  at  once,  excepting  the  Calceolarias,  which  are  best 
left  until  the  end  of  September.  All  the  bedding  Geraniums  strike 
better  on  a  warm,  sunny  border  than  in  pots  and  frames.  Prick 
up  the  border,  and,  after  making  it  firm  on  the  surface,  insert  the 
cuttings,  and,  in  ordinary  seasons,  all  the  attention  necessary  until 
they  are  rooted  will  be  simply  to  give  them  one  good  watering  to 
settle  the  soil,  and  remove  all  decayed  foliage,  to  prevent  its  injuring 
the  other.  The  Verbenas,  Cupheas,  Heliotropes,  and  Lobelias  require 
more  care.  The  cuttings  should  be  inserted  in  pots  properly  drained, 
and  filled  with  light  sandy  soil,  and  then  placed  in  a  cold  frame,  and 
kept  close  and  shaded  until  rooted. 

Kitchen  Garden. — The  principal  spring  crops  must  be  got  in 
this  month,  and  it  is  highly  important  that  everything  in  connection 
with  them  be  done  at  the  right  time.  If  any  delay  takes  place,  the 
plants  will  not  attain  their  full  size  ;  and,  on  the  other  hand,  if  sown 
too  soon,  they  get  too  big,  and  run  to  seed  directly  we  get  a  few 
warm  days  in  the  spring.  Sow  Cabbage  and  Endive  in  the  early  part 
of  the  month,  and  Lettuce  and  Cauliflowers  about  the  20th.  At  the 
same  time,  sow  Tripoli  Onion,  White  Stone  Turnip,  and  Black 
Spanish  Radish.  In  earthing  up  Celery,  be  particularly  careful  to 
prevent  the  soil  getting  into  the  hearts.  As  the  Celery  makes  but 
little  progress  after  it  is  earthed  up,  that  operation  ought  not  to  be 
performed  until  after  it  is  nearly  full-grown.  Take  up  and  store 
Garlic  and  Shallots  as   they  complete   their  growth.       Give  Peas 


250  THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

French  Beans,  and  Scarlet  Runners  liberal  supplies  of  manure-water 
where  practicable. 

Pruit  Garden". — Regulate  and  train  the  growth  of  wall  and 
espalier  trees,  so  that  it  has  free  exposure  to  the  light  and  air,  to 
enable  it  to  get  thoroughly  ripened.  Let  the  above  and  pyramids 
have  a  thorough  wash  overhead  frequently,  to  keep  them  clean  and 
fresh.  There  must  be  no  more  stopping  after  this  ;  but  where 
the  wood  is  too  thick,  remove  a  few  shoots  altogether.  Protect 
Morello  Cherries  and  other  fruit,  which  it  is  intended  to  preserve  on 
the  trees  after  being  ripe,  with  nets,  or  the  blackbirds  and  thrushes 
will  soon  make  short  work  of  them.  Make  new  Strawberry  plan- 
tations as  quickly  as  possible ;  and  if  good  strong  runners  are 
planted,  they  will  form  strong  crowns  this  autumn,  and  bear  a  good 
crop  next  season.  To  plant  Strawberries  in  October  or  spring,  as  is 
commonly  practised,  is  simply  a  waste  of  the  ground  they  occupy 
for  the  first  year. 

Conservatory. — This  structure  must  have  a  thorough  cleansing 
at  once,  so  as  to  be  in  readiness  for  the  reception  of  the  hard-wooded 
stuff  when  required.  All  the  wood-work  should  have  a  thorough 
scrubbing  with  soft  soap  and  warm  water,  and  the  walls  be  washed 
over  with  hot  lime.  All  painting  ought  to  be  finished  at  once,  so  as 
to  allow  plenty  of  time  for  the  effluvium  arising  from  it  to  evaporate 
before  the  plants  are  housed.  There  is  no  danger  of  frost  yet,  but 
if  we  get  much  wet  weather  during  the  month,  choice,  delicate- 
rooted  plants,  like  Leschenaultias,  Heaths,  Genetyllis,  etc.,  must  be 
removed  indoors,  to  have  protection  from  the  wet,  or  they  will  suffer 
considerable  injury.  After  they  get  indoors,  the  ventilators  must 
be  thrown  open  as  wide  as  possible  day  and  night.  Pot  off  cuttings 
of  hard-wooried  plants  that  are  nicely  rooted,  to  give  them  an  oppor- 
tunity of  getting  nicely  established  "before  winter.  Attend  to  plants 
out  of  doors,  and  see  that  they  do  not  suffer  for  the  want  of  water. 
Thin  out  the  growing  shoots  of  the  climbers,  to  give  the  wood 
iutended  for  next  year  a  chance  to  get  thoroughly  ripened. 

Stove. — Still  maintain  a  brisk  temperature,  and  give  plenty  of 
air,  and  use  less  shade  than  hitherto,  to  insure  the  wood  being 
thoroughly  ripened.  Shut  up  early  in  the  afternoon.  Encourage 
winter- flowering  plants  with  weak  manure- water,  and  give  less  water 
to  plants  that  have  completed  their  growth.  A  large  proportion  of 
the  Orchids  will  have  completed  their  growth  for  this  season,  and 
will  now  require  more  air  and  a  fuller  exposure  to  the  light. 

Forctkg. — Prepare  the  materials  for  making  fresh  Mushroom- 
beds,  and  spawn  those  made  last  month.  Vines  swelling  their 
fruit  must  have  a  moist,  growing  atmosphere.  Muscats  must  have 
a  temperature  five  degrees  higher  than  that  required  for  the 
Hambro's.  Give  plenty  of  air  to  houses  in  which  the  crops  are 
ripe,  but  nail  coarse  canvas  over  all  openings,  to  keep  the  flies  and 
wasps  out.  The  lights  should  be  removed  from  the  early  Peach- 
houses  where  practicable.  Trees  growing  in  houses  with  fixed  roofs 
should  have  plenty  of  air,  and  receive  a  thorough  syringing  two  or 
three  times  a  day.  Sow  cucumbers  for  winter  bearing  about  the 
middle  of  the  month.     Thin  out  the  growth  of  those  in  bearing,  and 


THE   FLORAL    WOULD    AND   GARDEN   GUIDE.  251 

water  with  weak  manure-water.  Melons,  after  they  are  about  half 
grown,  should  be  elevated  above  the  foliage.  It  is  particularly 
necessary  to  keep  the  plants  properly  supplied  with  water  at  this 
stage  ;  for,  if  they  get  dry  at  the  roots,  the  fruit  will  split  in  all 
directions  as  soon  as  the  plants  are  supplied  with  water. 


HORTICULTURAL  NOTES. 


?HE  principal  events  of  July  have  been  the  exhibitions  of 
Roses,  of  which,  notwithstanding  the  unfavourable 
character  of  the  season,  all  were  more  or  less  successful. 
The  Roses  were  not  at  any  of  the  exhibitions  equal  in 
quality  to  the  best  of  those  staged  during  the  last  two 
or  three  years,  but  they  were  on  the  whole  of  fair  average  quality, 
and  the  only  surprise  felt  by  the  majority  of  visitors  was  that  they 
were  so  good.  The  exhibition  held  at  the  Crystal  Palace  at  the  end 
of  June  was  very  successful,  and  a  second,  or  supplementary  show, 
is  announced  for  Saturday,  the  5th  inst.,  when  prizes  for  table  deco- 
rations, as  well  as  for  roses,  will  be  offered. 

The  principal  rose  shows  were  held  at  South  Kensington,  Here- 
ford, Birmingham,  and  Manchester.  The  exhibition  at  the  last- 
mentioned  town  was  of  an  experimental  character,  it  being  the  first 
ever  held  there,  and  the  results  were  so  satisfactory  that  we  may 
now  look  upon  a  rose  show  at  Manchester  as  one  of  its  established 
institutions.  In  point  of  quality  the  best  blooms  were  those  staged 
at  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society's  exhibition  and  at  Birmingham, 
and  as  the  other  exhibitions  did  not  differ  materially,  a  detailed 
notice  of  these  shows  wiU  be  quite  sufficient  to  indicate  the  varieties 
which  are  held  in  the  highest  esteem  by  exhibitors.  The  competition 
in  the  great  class  for  seventy-two  single  blooms  at  Kensington  was 
not  very  severe,  and  it  was  apparent  from  the  number  of  faulty 
blooms  staged  that  it  was  a  most  difficult  matter  for  the  exhibitors  to 
put  in  an  appearance  at  all  in  that  class.  The  prizes  offered  for 
forty-eight  triple  blooms  were  very  warmly  contested,  and  the  blooms 
were  of  much  better  quality.  The  first  prize  was  taken  by  Messrs. 
Paul  and  Son,  of  Cheshunt,  who  presented  grand  examples  of 
Madame  Laurent,  Madame  Victor  Verdier,  Madame  Caillat,  Francois 
Louvat,  Triomphe  de  Rennes,  Marie  Baumann,  Camille  Bernardin, 
Antoine  Ducher,  La  Reine,  Madlle.  Therese  Levet,  Dr.  Andry,  Duke 
of  Edinburgh,  Elie  Morel,  La  France,  Alfred  Colomb,  Centifolia 
Rosea,  Madame  Clemence  Joigneaux,  Souvenir  d'Elise,  Maurice 
Bernardin,  Baroness  Rothschild,  Charles  Rouillard,  and  Madlle. 
Marie  Rady.  Mr.  Turner,  of  Slough,  who  occupied  the  second 
place,  staged  fine  blooms  of  Madame  Crapelet,  Climbing  Devoniensis, 
Maurice  Benardin,  Baroness  Rothschild,  Duke  of  Edinburgh,  Horace 
Vernet,  Madlle.  Marie  Rady,  Charles  Rouillard,  Madame  Clemence 
Joigneaux,  Madame  Fidion,  Miss  Ingram,  Francoise  Lacharme,  Miss 
Poole,  Camille  Bernardin,  Alfred  Colomb,  and  Abel  Grand. 

Mr.  Turner  was  first  for  twenty-four  varieties,  one  truss  of  each, 


252  THE  FLORAL    WORLD   AND   GARDEN   GUIDE. 

with  grand  examples  of  Miss  Poole,  Madame  Clemence  Joigneaux, 
Duke  of  Edinburgh,  Madlle.  Alice  Dareau,  Marie  Baumann,  La 
France,  Anna  de  Diesbach,  Madame  Victor  Verdier,  Climbing  De- 
voniensis,  General  Jacqueminot,  Madlle.  Annie  Wood,  Miss  Poole, 
Francoise  Treyve,  Miss  Ingram,  Horace  Vernet,  Marechal  Niel,  and 
Centifolia  Eosea,  all  of  which  are  very  fine.  Messrs.  Paul  and  Son 
were  first  for  twelve  blooms  with  Comtesse  d'Oxford,  and  for  six  with 
Louis  van  Houtte,  undoubtedly  one  of  the  finest  of  recent  intro- 
ductions. Mr.  Turner  was  second  in  both  classes,  and  staged  twelve 
very  fine  blooms  of  Miss  Poole,  a  variety  sent  out  from  Slough  two 
years  since. 

At  Birmingham,  the  competition  was  very  severe  in  the  trade 
class  for  seventy-two,  and  the  first  prize  was  awarded  to  Mr.  J. 
Keynes,  Salisbury,  who  exhibited  amongst  others  superbly-finished 
blooms  of  Xavier  Oliho,  Ville  de  Lyon,  Caroline  Sansal,  Baronne 
Adolphe  de  Eothschild,  Francoise  Fontaine,  Madame  Clert,  Edward 
Morren,  in  much  better  condition  than  it  is  usually  met  with  ; 
Madame  Boutin,  Jules  Margottin,  Duchesse  d'Orleans,  Senateur 
Vaisse,  Centifolia  Eosea,  Hippolyte  Flaudrin,  Gloire  de  Dijon, 
Alpaide  Eotalier,  Eeine  du  Midi,  Exposition  de  Brie,  Paul  Neron, 
Madame  Eugene  Verdier,  a  large  pseony-shaped  flower  of  but  little 
merit  for  exhibition  purposes ;  Abbe  Giraudier,  Baroness  Eothschild, 
Madame  Fillion,  Ferdinand  de  Lesseps,  Madame  Hector  Jacquin, 
Fisher  Holmes,  La  Eeine,  Duke  of  Edinburgh,  Madame  Dustour, 
Baronne  Gonella,  Dupuy  Jamain,  Francoise  Lacharme,  Princess 
Mary  of  Cambridge,  Madame  Charles  Wood,  Niphetos,  Prince 
Camille  de  Bohan,  Antoine  Ducher,  Souvenir  d'un  Ami,  Victor 
Verdier,  Elie  Morel,  Madame  Moreau,  La  Motte  Sanguinea,  bright 
in  colour,  but  flat  and  second-rate ;  Clemence  Eaoux,  Charles 
Lefebvre,  Triomphe  de  Eennes,  Madame  Marie  Eady,  Madame 
Vidot,  John  Hopper,  Josephine  de  Beauharnais,  Mdlle.  Marie  Eady, 
Louis  Van  Houtte,  Abel  Grand,  Alfred  Colomb,  Marquise  de  Morte- 
mart,  Marie  Baumaun,  Emilie  Hausberg,  Catherine  Mernett,  Anna 
de  Diesbach,  Devienne  Lamy,  Camille  Bernardin,  Pitord,  Madame 
La  Boutte,  Comtesse  d'Oxford,  Madame  Clemence  Joigneaux,  Mar- 
guerite de  St.-Amand,  Mdlle.  Marguerite  Dombrain,  Maurice  Ber- 
nardin, Madame  Willermoz,  Marquise  de  Castellane,  La  France,  and 
Louise  Peyronne. 

Mr.  Keynes  was  also  first  for  twenty-four  new  roses  sent  out  by 
English  nurserymen  in  the  spring  of  1S69-70-71,  and  staged  Cle- 
mence Eaoux,  good  ;  Comtesse  d'Oxford,  very  distinct  and  good ; 
Charles  Turner,  poor  as  shown  ;  Emilie  Hausberg,  Marquise  de 
Mortemart,  Marquise  de  Castellane,  a  fine  rose  for  pot  culture  and 
garden  decoration,  but  hardly  full  enough  to  admit  of  its  being  con- 
sidered a  first-rate  rose  for  exhibition  purposes;  Mdlle.  Eugene 
Verdier,  second-rate;  JSardy  Freres,  Thyra  Hainmerich,  PaulNeron, 
large  and  of  fine  form  ;  Eeine  Blanche,  Abbe  Giraudier,  La  Motte 
Sanguinea,  Jeanne  Guillot,  Louis  van  Houtte,  a  most  valuable  dark 
rose  ;  Louisa  Wood,  Catherine  Mernett,  Dupuy  Jamain,  Perfection 
de  Lyon,  Ferdinand  de  Lesseps,  a  decided  acquisition  ;  and  Madame 
Dustour. 


THE  FLORAL   WORLD   AND   GARDEN   GUIDE.  253 

The  number  of  entries  was  not  so  large  in  the  classes  for  twelve 
blooms  of  light  and  dark-ftawered  varieties  as  might  have  been, 
expected ;  but  the  blooms  staged  were  exceptionally  fine.  In  the 
class  for  twelve  blooms  of  a  light-flowered  variety,  Mr.  Cranston, 
Hereford,  was  first,  with  Baroness  Rothschild,  which  is  undoubtedly' 
one  of  the  best  light-flowered  varieties  in  cultivation ;  and  in  the 
corresponding  class  for  a  dark- flowered  variety,  Mr.  Keynes  was 
first,  with  Madame  Charles  Wood ;  and  Mr.  Durbin  second,  with 
Dupuy  Jatnain. 

The  exhibition  of  the  Royal  Botanic  Society,  on  the  12th  and 
13th  ult.,  was  the  most  interesting  and  successful  the  Society  has 
held  during  the  present  season ;  but  excepting  the  new  plants, 
nothing  calling  for  especial  notice  here  was  exhibited. 

The  new  plants,  which  received  first-class  certificates,  were — 
Goleus  Lady  Leigh,  a  very  distinct  variety,  richly  variegated  with 
yellow,  green,  and  chocolate,  from  Mr.  Perkins,  of  Leamington ; 
golden  zonal  pelargonium,  Gem  of  the  Tricolors,  a  fine  variety  in  the 
way  of  Carter's  Prince  of  Wales,  from  Mr.  Kimberley,  Stoke,  near 
Coventry.  Amorphophallus  spectabilis,  Alocasia  Marshalli,  in  the 
way  of  A.  Jenningsi,  Rhododendron  hybridum,  Dioscorea  spectabilis, 
a  fine  stove  climber,  with  richly-marked  foliage ;  Pteris  cretica  albo- 
lineata  cristata,  very  elegantly  crested  ;  Goniophlebium  glaucj- 
phyllum,  and  Bignonia  Roezliana,  from  Mr.  Bull,  Chelsea. 
Hydrangea  japonica  speciosa,  a  very  handsome  variety,  with  varie- 
gated foliage,  from  Messrs.  E.  G.  Henderson  and  Son ;  Rhopala 
Grantensis,  from  Mr.  B.  S.  Williams  ;  Polystichum  angulare  pul- 
cherrima  and  Scolopendrium  vulgare  Whytei,  from  Messrs.  Ivery  and 
Son ;  and  Davallia  clavata,  from  Messrs.  Rollisson  and  Son. 

_  At  the  last  July  meeting  of  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society, 
prizes  were  offered  for  herbaceous  Phloxes,  Pentstemons,  Liliums, 
miscellaneous  hardy  herbaceous  plants,  and  Picotees,  and  Carnations. 
The  Carnations  and  Picotees  were  well  represented ;  but  the  only 
exhibitors  of  herbaceous  Phloxes  were  Messrs.  Downie,  Laird,  and 
Laing,  Forest  Hill,  who  staged  wonderfully  good  specimens  ot 
Pladda,  white,  with  mauve  eye  ;  George  Wyness,  mauve-pink  ;  Mr. 
Taylor,  white,  flushed  with  rose;  Captain  Speke,  lilac;  James 
Mitchell,  deep  rose;  and  Mons.  Saison,  brilliant  crimson,  one  of  the 
most  richly-coloured  phloxes  in  cultivation.  The  collection  of  twelve 
hardy  herbaceous  plants,  exhibited  by  Mr.  Parker  were  exceedingly 
well  grown  and  flowered,  and  were  well  entitled  to  the  award 
received. 

The  competition  in  all  the  classes  for  Carnations  and  Picotees 
was  rather  smart.  The  first  prize  for  twelve  Picotees  in  the  class 
confined  to  amateurs  was  taken  by  Mr.  Norman,  Crescent  Road, 
Plumstead,  with  magnificent  blooms  of  General  Tulloch,  Mrs! 
Norman,  Morning  Star,  Mr.  Davis,  J.  Dixon,  Mr.  Brown,  William 
Ingieton,  Mrs.  Delaforce,  Edith  Ingleton,  Master  Norman,  Prince 
Arthur,  and  Mrs.  G.  Naylor,  all  of  which  are  first-rate.  Mr.  Pizzev, 
gardener  to  Sir  E.  Perry,  Fulmer,  Slough,  who  occupied  the  second 
place  for  Picotees,  was  first  for  twelve  Carnations,  with  clean,  well- 
fimshed  blooms  of  Juno,  James  Merryweather,  Sir  R.  Peel,  Count 


254  THE  FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 

Pauline,  Mars,  Earl  Stamford,  Sarah  Payne,  Splendour,  Royal 
Scarlet,  Antonio,  Prince  Albert,  and  Eccentric  Jack. 

In  the  open  class  for  Carnations  and  Picotees,  the  honours  were 
equally  divided  by  Mr.  0.  Turner,  Slough,  and  Mr.  Norman;  the 
former  taking  first  for  Carnations  and  the  second,  for  Picotees,  and 
the  latter  first  for  Picotees  and  the  second  for  Carnations.  In  the 
first-prize  stand  of  Carnations  were  superb  blooms  of  Colonel  Wynd- 
ham,  James  Merryweather,  William  Cowper,  King  John,  Purity, 
Sarah  Payne,  Annibilator,  Ealconbridge,  Juno,  Antonio,  and  Kentish 
Hero.  In  the  first-prize  stand  of  Picotees  occurred  magnificent 
blooms  of  Master  Norman,  Morning  Star,  Prince  Arthur,  Mrs.  A. 
Ingleton,  Purity,  John  Norman,  Edith  Ingleton,  Mrs.  Garrett, 
Charles  Williams,  and  John  Dixon. 

The  number  of  new  plants  brought  before  the  Committee  of  the 
Royal  Horticultural  Society  at  their  first  July  meeting  was  more 
limited  than  usual.  Mr.  Bull  was  awarded  a  second-class  certificate 
for  Lobelia  erinus  Omen,  a  dwarf  and  rather  compact-growing 
variety  with  deep  purplish-rose  flowers.  Mr.  Croucher,  gardener  to 
J.  T.  Peacock,  Esq.,  Sudbury  House,  Hammersmith,  a  first-class 
certificate  for  a  variegated  variety  of  Agave  Verschaffelti,  with  a 
band  of  yellow  down  the  centre  of  each  leaf ;  and  a  similar  award 
was  conferred  upon  Houlettia  odoratissima  antiguoriensis,  exhibited 
by  Mr.  Green,  gardener  to  W.  W.  Saunders,  Esq.,  Hillfield, 
Reigate ;  also  upon  Petunia  Coquette,  an  anemone-flowered  variety, 
white  with  crimson  centre  and  margin,  from  Messrs.  E.  G.  Hen- 
derson and  Son :  and  for  Lithospermum  petrcsnm,  a  pretty  blue- 
flowered  species,  and  Linwm  salsoloides,  a  pretty  dwarf  species  with 
white  flowers,  from  Messrs.  Backhouse  and  Son,  York.  Mr.  C. 
Turner  contributed  two  new  show  Pinks,  Br.  Masters,  heavily  laced 
with  purple-crimson,  and  Shirley  Hibberd,  heavily  laced  with  light 
rose.  The  flowers  of  both  are  of  large  size,  full,  grand  form, 
smooth,  and  superbly  finished,  and  were  deservedly  awarded  first- 
class  certificates. 

To  the  second  meeting  Messrs.  E.  G.  Henderson  and  Son  sent  a 
group  of  new  varieties  of  Lobelia  erinus  pumila,  the  best  of  which 
were — Brilliant,  deep  cobalt  blue,  flowers  as  large  as  those  of 
speciosa,  habit  very  dwarf  and  compact,  but  rather  more  vigorous 
than  the  ordinary  type  of  pumila  ;  Celestial  Blue,  clear  azure-blue, 
flowers  of  medium  size  and  freely  produced,  habit  dense  and  com- 
pact. Purple  Prince,  deep  purplish  rose,  free  flowering,  dwarf  and 
compact,  was  also  very  good.  Messrs.  J.  and  C.  Lee,  Hammer- 
smith, exhibited  Lobelia  erinus  Purity,  which  may  be  described  as 
a  white-flowered  speciosa.  The  habit  is  all  that  can  be  desired,  and 
the  flowers,  which  are  produced  in  the  most  profuse  manner,  are 
pure  white.  Therefore  it  must  be  most  valuable  for  bedding  pur- 
poses, as  a  white-flowered  plant  suitable  for  marginal  lines  has  long 
been  wanted.  M.  Jean  Verschaffelti  Ghent,  Belgium,  sent  an 
interesting  group  of  Agaves  and  Cycads,  including  Agave  mescal 
striatis,  A.  species  nova  (?),  a  pretty  upright  grower;  A.  elegant is- 
sima,  a  very  beautiful  neat-growing  species,  worthy  of  a  place  in 
the  most   select  collection  ;  A.  Eegeli  macrodontha,  a  strong  grower, 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND   GARDEN   GUIDE.  255 

armed  with  formidable  spines  ;  Encsplialartos  Vroomi,  a  noble  species, 
and  a  new  Zamia  with  most  elegant;  fronds. 

Mr.  Norman,  Plumstead,  staged  a  stand  of  new  Picotees,  all  of 
■which  possess  considerable  merit,  but  the  best  were — Mrs.  Brown, 
light-edged  red,  ground  clear,  edge  sharp  and  definite  ;  Lady  Holms- 
dale,  heavy-edged  rose,  very  fine  and  smooth  ;  Morning  Star,  light- 
edged  rose,  with  pink  shade,  ground  very  pure,  smooth,  and  per- 
fect in  outline  ;  William  Ingleton,  heavy-edged  purple,  petals  broad 
and  smooth,  a  fine  bold  flower;  and  Mr.  Brown,  edge  medium,  and 
of  a  deep  rich  crimson  hue,  a  fine  bold  flower. 

Several  interesting  fruits  and  vegetables  were  also  exhibited  at 
the  last  meeting,  the  most  important  of  which  were — The  Amateur's 
strawberry,  a  fine  handsome  fruit  of  a  dark  crimson  colour,  and 
most  excellent  flavour,  exhibited  by  Mr.  Bradley,  Littledale  Halam, 
near  Southwell,  Notts  ;  Ascot  Citrondle  grape,  a  most  valuable,  rich, 
and  piquant-flavoured  white  grape,  which  is  said  to  hang  well,  and 
does  not  crack,  raised  and  exhibited  by  Messrs.  Stanclish  and  Co., 
Ascot ;  Bigarreau  Noir  de  Schmidt  cherry,  a  large  and  handsome- 
looking  cherry,  from  the  nursery  of  Messrs.  Eivers  and  Son,  Saw- 
bridgeworth ;  and  Lee's  Prolific  Black  Currant,  the  best  of  all  the 
black  varieties,  was  again  exhibited  by  the  raiser,  Mr.  Lee,  Clevedon. 
Bristol,  in  splendid  condition. 

Mr.  James,  gardener  to  W.  E.  "Watson,  Esq.,  Redlees,  Isleworth, 
contributed  samples  of  a  new  wrinkled  marrow  pea,  named 
James's  Prolific,  the  average  height  of  which  is  three  feet,  and  the 
pods  are  long,  well  filled,  nearly  straight,  and  produced  from  the 
bottom  to  the  top  of  the  haulm. 


TO    CORRESPONDENTS. 

Plant  Labels. —  W.  H.  IT.— The  labels  referred  to  are  manufactured  by  Messrs. 
Bell  and  Thorpe,  Paddock  Nurseries,  Straiford-on-Avon,  who  will,  no  doubt,  send  a 
list  of  prices  on  application. 

Sfirtea  Culture. —  Christine. — Very  probably  the  plants  suffered  from  dryness 
at  the  roots.     The  subject  shall  have  attention  shortly. 

Aquarium  Furnishing. — J.  J.— We  do  not  recommend  dealers,  and  are,  there- 
fore, unable  to  afford  you  the  desired  information. 

Planting  Rose  Trees. — F.  B.  R. — The  rose  trees  should  be  planted  early  in  No- 
vember, but  they  may  be  planted  as  Lite  as  the  March  following.  The  beds  or  borders 
in  which  they  arc  planted  should  be  liberally  enriched  with  hotbed  or  stable  manure 
previous  to  planting  the  trees.  The  roots  should  be  covered  to  a  depth  of  about 
three  or  four  inches.  We  cannot  answer  your  third  query,  for  the  reason  that  we  do 
not  recommend  dealers.  Standard  rose  trees  may  be  procured  from  any  good  nursery 
at  prices  ranging  from  one  to  two  shillings  each,  the  usual  price  being  eighteen 
shillings  per  dozen  for  established  varieties. 

B.  B. —  Fasten  the  trees  with  strong  tar  twine  in  addition  to  the  haybands. 
The  best  remedy  for  unfruitful ness  is  root-pruning,  as  pointed  out  by  Mr.  Trussler  in 
the  Floral  World  for  February  of  the  present  year.  The  only  way  to  keep  the 
tender  plants  during  the  winter  is  to  put  them  in  the  frames,  as  you  have  no  house 
and  protect  them  from  frost  by  means  of  mats,  or  other  covering  material,  such  as 
long  litter,  straw,  or  refuse  hay.  Myosolis  sylvatica,  SUene  pendula,  CannelVs 
Eztra  Dark,  and  Belvoir  Castle,  Dwarf  Yellow  Wallflowers,  Red  and  White 
Daisies,  Viola  lutea  grandijlora,  Arabis  lucid*,  and  A/ys.sum  saxatile  compactum, 
are  all  remarkably  showy,  and  may  be  purchased  at  a  cheap  rate.    With  the  exeep- 


256  THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND   GARDEN.   GUIDE. 

tion  of  the  Daisies,  all  the  above  may  be  raised  from  seed,  but  it  must  be  sown  at 
once  to  insure  plants  large  enough  to  bloom  satisfactorily  next  spring.  Green  and 
variegated  tree  Box,  Euonymus,  Hollies,  and  Aucubas,  and  Thuja  aurea,  and 
Cupressus  Lawsoniana,  are  all  suitable  for  filling  flower  beds  in  winter.  Zonal 
pelargoninms  require  very  little  moisture  during  the  winter  months.  The  other 
question  was  anticipated  by  a  valued  correspondent.  The  Dahlia  tubers  were,  most 
probably,  injured  by  the  frost. 

Skeleton  Leaves. — A  Lady  Correspondent. — We  quite  agree  with  all  that 
has  been  said  with  respect  to  the  beauty  of  bouquets  of  skeleton  leaves  when  taste- 
fully mounted  ;  but  we  can  assure  our  correspondent  that  the  task  of  preparing 
them  is  not  so  difficult  as  she  imagines.  Select  the  finest  and  most  perfect 
specimens,  and  soak  them  in  a  large  deep  vessel  of  rain-water;  place  it  in  a  sunny 
spot  or  other  warm  situation,  and  shake  it  occasionally,  but  not  sufficient  to  stir  up 
the  contents,  as  that  might  injure  the  fibres  of  the  leaves.  As  the  water  evaporates, 
fill  up  with  fresh  water  again,  without  changing  that  which  remains.  Be  careful 
of  using  any  chemical  in  order  to  assist  decomposition,  as  you  will  thereby  run 
great  risk  of  injuring  the  delicate  skeleton,  which,  of  course  you 'are  anxious  to 
keep  quite  perfect.  But  if  you  are  impatient  of  waiting,  a  few  drops  of  muriatic 
acid  would  hasten  the  destruction  of  the  soft  parts.  Tlie  most  usual  plan,  however, 
is  to  soak  the  leaves  in  rain-water  only,  until  the  skin  which  envelops  the  fibre  is 
quite  soft  and  loose,  so  that  it  can  be  easily  removed.  The  best  plan  for  accomplish- 
ing this  is  to  lay  each  one  separately  in  a  plate  full  of  water,  and  carefully  remove 
the  soft  parts  with  a  needle,  or  gentle  rubbing  with  the  finger  and  thumb.  .  Of 
course,  great  care  must  be  taken  not  to  break  the  skeleton  ;  but  with' a.  little 
practice  you  will  be  able  to  do  it  easily.  As  soon  as  the  water  thickens,  so  that  you 
cannot  well  see  what  you  are  about,  change  it,  or  you  will  spoil  your  work.  In 
some  cases  a  piece  of  soft  flannel  may  be  used  with  advantage  ;  but  the  final 
clearing  of  pulp  from  the  fibres  must  be  performed  with  a  camel-hair  brush.  The 
time  required  for  steeping  them  depends  upon  a  variety  of  circurr.star.ces,  such  as 
the  kind  of  leaf,  its  age,  the  time  of  year,  the  temperature  of  the  weather,  etc. 
The  leaves  of  the  ivy  and  holly  require  soaking  for  three  or  four  months,  while 
those  of  the  pear,  apple,  and  poplar  will  be  ready  in  as  many  weeks ;  so  that  it 
will  be  necessary  for  you  to  use  your  own  judgment,  and  discover  the  time  eacli 
kind  of  leaf  requires  for  yourself,  by  examining  them  occasionally.  Of  course  it 
will  require  some  patience  and  perseverance  before  "first-rate"  skeletons  can  be 
obtained;  but  the  task  is  not  so  difficult  but  that  any  one  gifted  with  ordinary 
patience  and  medium  talent  may  be  able  to  produce  very  creditable  specimens. 
The  vessel  containing  the  water  may  be  pretty  well  filled  with  specimens,  as  they 
will  not  injure  each  other  unless  shaken  too  rudely,  but  perhaps  rather  assist  in  the 
process  of  decomposition.  It  is  not  advisable  to  use  any  but  full-grown  leaves,  as 
the  delicate  fibres  of  young  ones  are  likely  to  decompose  with  the  pulp.  The  best 
time  for  selecting  them  is  therefore  about  July  or  August,  when  they  are  quite 
mature,  but  still  vigorous.  Great  care  must  be  taken  to  choose  only  the  most 
perfect,  for  it  is  obvious  that  if  any  portion  of  the  fibres  are  injured  before  you 
macerate  them,  it  will  be  impossible  to  obtain  a  perfect  specimen.  Hold  your  leaf, 
then,  up  to  the  light,  and  if  you  can  see  a  crack,  or  any  small  spots  of  decay,  thiow 
it  away,  or  your  time  and  trouble  will  be  wasted  ;  for  when  once  the  skeleton  is 
broken,  or  otherwise  injured,  all  attempts  to  repair  it  prove  unavailing.  Those  leaves 
which  have  the  toughest  fibres  are,  of  course,  the  best  adapted  for  the  purpose,  and 
consequently  the  soft  leaves  of  rapid-growing  plants  are  useless.  Those  best 
adapted  for  the  purpose,  and  which  can  be  obtained  by  everybody,  are  leaves  of  ivy, 
holly,  magnolia,  rose,  pear,  sycamore,  willow,  oak,  hawthorn,  poplar,  orange,  and 
lemon,  the  petals  of  hydrangea,  and  fruit  of  the  apple,  thorn,  and  winter  cherry. 
Each  kind  of  leaf  has  a  peculiarity  of  structure  and  a  beauty  entirely  its  own  ;  so 
that  the  differences  in  the  fibrous  network,  and  the  variety  and  elegance  of  outline 
observable  in  the  different  subjects,  give  to  the  pursuit  a  great  charm.  The  appear- 
ance of  the  skeleton  is  greatly  improved  by  bleaching,  which  is  accomplished  by 
plunging  in  «pring-water  in  which  has  been  dissolved  some  chloride  of  lime.  Two 
table-spoonfuls  of  liquid  chloiide  to  a  pint  of  water  will  f-nffice.  In  some  cases  the 
skeletons  will  become  white  in  a  few  minutes  but  leaves  of  stronger  fibre  will  take 
a  much  longer  time.  When  well  bleached,  dry  them  carefully  on  blotting-paper, 
and  then  arrange  them  tastefully  in  a  vase,  and  cover  the  whole  with  a  glass  shade, 
when  you  will  possess  a  very  elegant  ornament  for  your  drawing-room  or  boudoir. 


PINK. 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND   GARDEN   GUIDE.  257 

TURNEE'S    NEW    PINKS. 

(With  Coloured  Plate  of  Godfrey) 

)|HE  beautiful  pink  Godfrey,  which  we  have  the  pleasure  of 
figuring  in  the  present  number,  is  one  of  a  magnificent 
series  of  new  show  varieties,  introduced  to  public  notice 
for  the  first  time  during  the  present  season,  by  Mr. 
Chas.  Turner,  of  the  Royal  Nurseries,  Slough.  The  whole 
of  the  series,  which  will  be  described  as  we  proceed,  when  exhibited 
before  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society  in  June,  received  the  highest, 
award  the  Moral  Committee  could  confer.  The  fact  of  their  being 
in  the  hands  of  Mr.  Charles  Turner,  who  has  probably  done  more 
towards  the  advancement  of  floriculture  than  any  other  man  living, 
is  a  sufficient  guarantee  of  their  great  excellence ;  but  we  have 
mentioned  the  fact  of  their  having  first-class  certificates  conferred 
upon  them  as  a  further  proof  that  they  are  each  and  all  quite  dis-' 
tinct  from,  and  superior  to,  the  best  in  general  cultivation. 

Before  proceeding  to  describe  the  varieties  here  referred  to, 
we  are  anxious  to  direct  attention  to  a  few  of  the  most  essential 
conditions  in  the  cultivation  of  the  Show  Pinks.  One  of  the  most 
important  matters  is  to  buy  and  plant  in  the  autumn,  and  not 
wait,  as  is  usually  done,  until  the  spring.  AVhen  planted  in  the 
autumn,  they  become  well  established  by  the  spring,  and  flower  satis- 
factorily ;  but  when  the  planting  is  left  until  the  spring,  there  is  not 
sufficient  time  for  them  to  be  well  rooted  and  make  much  pro- 
gress before  the  flowering  season.  It  is  also  necessary  to  plant  early 
in  the  autumn  to  insure  their  being  established  before  the  winter 
sets  in.  The  beds,  therefore,  should  be  prepared  at  once,  and  the 
plants  put  out  as  soon  as  they  are  ready  for  their  reception.  The 
preparation  of  the  beds  is  a  very  simple  affair,  and  such  as  can  be 
performed  by  the  veriest  tyro,  if  the  hints  here  given  are  followed. 

Excessive  moisture  is  one  of  the  greatest  enemies  with  which  the 
pink  has  to  contend  during  the  winter ;  and  to  avoid  the  settlement 
of  stagnant  moisture  about  the  plants,  the  surface  of  the  beds 
should  be  elevated  from  six  to  nine  inches  above  the  general  level, 
varying  the  height  according  to  the  character  of  the  soil  and  situa- 
tion— beds  in  low-lying  situations,  or  formed  of  soils  naturally  wet  or 
of  a  retentive  character,  requiring  the  greatest  elevation.  The  surface 
of  the  bed  should  be  rather  higher  in  the  centre,  to  enable  the  surplus 
water  after  a  heavy  rain  or  thaw  of  snow  to  escape  quickly  ;  but 
the  fall  on  each  side  must  not  be  too  great,  or  the  occupants  will  be 
deprived  of  their  proper  share  of  moisture  during  the  spring  and 
summer  months.  The  soil  must  be  broken  up  to  a  considerable 
depth,  and  well  pulverized,  and  a  plentiful  proportion  of  thoroughly- 
decayed  hotbed  or  stable  manure  incorporated  with  it.  If  the  staple 
soil  is  of  an  uncongenial  character,  the  addition  of  a  liberal  layer  of 
turfy  loam  will  be  of  considerable  service  in  promoting  a  healthy 
growth.  Leave  a  space  of  about  two  feet  between  the  beds,  to 
enable  the  cultivator  to  examine  and  attend  to  the  flowers,  as  may 
VOL.   VI. — NO.   ix.  17 


258  THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 

be  necessary,  without  treading  on  the  beds,  and  for  the  same  reason 
the  beds  should  not  exceed  a  width  of  three  feet.  Beds  of  this 
width  will  conveniently  take  four  rows  of  plants,  and  the  latter 
should  be  put  out  at  a  distance  of  nine  inches  apart.  Plant  firm,  and 
fix  a  small  stick  to  each,  to  prevent  the  wind  twisting  or  otherwise 
injuring  the  stern.  It  is  of  course  essential  to  procure  strong, 
healthy  plants ;  but  a  first-rate  grower,  like  Mr.  Turner,  will  be 
careful  to  supply  healthy  plants  only,  so  that  it  is  not  necessary  to 
say  anything  further  upon  this  point. 

In  the  spring,  if  the  surface-soil  has  become  consolidated,  prick 
it  up  lightly.  Early  in  April,  cover  the  surface  with  a  moderate 
layer  of  partly-decayed  manure,  which  will  serve  the  double  purpose 
of  keeping  the  roots  cool,  and  checking  the  too  rapid  evaporation 
of  the  moisture  from  the  soil.  From  the  time  the  plants  begin  to 
<*row  freely,  until  they  go  out  of  bloom,  water  the  beds  twice 
a-week  during  dry  weather  ;  soft  water  is  preferable,  and  if  slightly 
flavoured  with  the  draining  from  the  manure  heap,  so  much  the 
better. 

So  many  good  papers  on  the  cultivation  of  the  Pink  have  ap- 
peared in  these  pages,  that  we  have  considered  it  undesirable  to  offer 
anything  but  the  briefest  remarks  upon  the  cultural  part  of  the  sub- 
ject, and  those  who  are  in  need  of  further  information  will  do  well 
to  consult  the  numbers  of  the  Flobal  World  for  March,  1866,  and 
October,  1868. 

The  names  and  descriptions  of  the  series  of  new  varieties  are  as 
follows : — 

Coccinea. — This  is  a  magnificent  forcing  variety  of  the  type  repre- 
sented by  Anne  Boleyn.  It  usually  attains  a  height  of  about  nine 
inches,  and  produces  its  large,  brilliant  scarlet  flowers  in  the  greatest 
possible  profusion.  The  flowers  are  large  and  full,  and  will  be  found 
most  valuable  for  hand  and  button-hole  bouquets ;  neatly-grown 
plants  will  also  be  useful  for  conservatory  decoration  in  the  early 
part  of  the  season,  and  a  bed  should  be  planted  with  it  expressly  for 
furnishing  a  supply  of  cut  flowers  during  the  early  part  of  the 
summer. 

Lady  Blanch. — This  is  a  fine  companion  to  the  preceding  ;  it  is 
rather  taller  in  growth,  and  the  flowers,  which  are  produced  in  the 
greatest  profusion,  both  when  grown  in  pots  and  in  the  open  ground, 
are  large,  full,  and  of  the  purest  white.  These  two  are  not  suited 
for  exhibition  purposes,  but  for  home  decoration  they  are  unsur- 
passed. 

Godfrey. — As  here  pourtrayed,  this  is  a  grand  show  flower  of  the 
most  refined  proportions  and  superb  finish ;  the  flowers  are  large 
and  full,  and  the  petals  are  broad,  perfectly  smooth  round  the 
edge,  and  heavily  laced  with  bright  reddish  purple. 

Alice. — Like  Godfrey  this  is  a  beautifully  finished  flower,  but 
differs  in  the  lacing,  which  in  this  case  is  delicate  rose  purple ;  a  fine 
exhibition  flower. 

Shirley  Hibberd. — Flowers  extra  large  and  full,  and  superbly 
finished  ;  petals  broad,  smooth,  and  heavily  laced  with  light  rose  ;  a 
magnificent  show  flower. 


THE   FLORAL   WORLD    AND   GARDEN   GUIDE.  259 

Dr.  Masters. — This  also  is  a  superb  show  flower,  of  which  it  is 
impossible  to  say  too  much.  It  differs  from  its  predecessor  in  the 
colour  of  the  lacing,  which  is  deep  purplish  crimson,  instead  of 
light  rose. 

Those  who  purpose  forming  a  collection  will  find  the  following 
selection  of  twenty-five  older  kinds  of  considerable  value  : — 

Attraction,  Beautiful,  Beauty  of  Bath,  Bertram,  Blondiu,  Charles 
"Waterton,  Christabel,  Delicata,  Device,  Dr.  Maclean,  Edith,  Emily, 
Excelsior,  Eustace,  John  Ball,  Lady  Craven,  Lizzie,  Lord  Herbert, 
Marion,  Mrs.  Maclean,  Mrs.  White,  Perfection,  Picturata,  President, 
Rev.  G.  Jeans.  S.  H. 


THE  LACE-LEAF  PLANT  (OUVIRANDRA  FENESTRALIS). 

BT   GEOftGE    GORDON. 

[HE  singularly  beautiful  Ouvirandra  fenestralis,  and  its 
congener  Bemeriana,  are  seldom  seen  in  any  but  the 
stoves  of  the  most  wealthy,  whereas  they  are  just  the 
plants  that  the  enthusiastic  amateur  who  has  the  con- 
venience of  a  stove  should  take  in  hand.  They  are 
certainly  peculiar  in  their  requirements,  but  when  the  details  are 
well  understood,  there  is  nothing  difficult  in  their  management,  and 
it  will  be  found  that  attention,  rather  than  skill,  is  of  the  greatest 
importance. 

"When  recently  conversing  with  the  Rev.  W.  Ellis,  the  well-known 
missionary,  who  had  the  honour  of  first  introducing  living  specimens 
of  these  plants  to  this  country,  on  the  conditions  under  which  they 
are  met  with  in  the  greatest  perfection  in  their  native  habitats,  and 
the  immense  difficulties  he  had  to  encounter  in  bringing  them  home 
alive,  the  thought  struck  me  that  a  few  hints  on  their  cultivation 
may  be  of  service  to  some  of  the  readers  of  the  Floeal  Wobld. 
The  cultural  directions  which  follow  are,  it  is  hardly  necessary  to 
say,  founded  on  my  personal  experience  in  their  cultivation,  and  it 
may  with  safety  be  said,  that  if  they  are  strictly  acted  upon,  failure 
will  be  impossible. 

The  blades  of  the  leaves  of  0.  fenestralis  usually  attain  a  length 
of  about  fifteen  inches,  and  a  width  of  three  inches,  and  are  sup- 
ported on  gracefully  arching  petioles  which  vary  in  length  according 
to  the  depth  of  water  above  the  surface  of  the  soil.  About  fourteen 
nerves  run  from  the  base  of  the  leaf,  gradually  expand,  and  converge 
again  towards  the  apex,  so  as  to  form  a  lengthened  oval  shape,  and 
are  connected  together  with  cross  veins  ;  and  from  the  entire  absence 
of  parenchyma,  they  are  simply  a  network  of  brownish  green 
threads,  as  shown  in  the  illustration  of  the  leaf,  and  also  of  the 
entire  plant,  which  accompany  this.  The  leaves  of  0.  Bemeriana 
are  longer  in  the  blade,  of  a  brighter  green,  and  are  made  of  much 
stouter  network  or  veins.  Of  the  two,  the  former  is  the  most 
elegant,  but   both  should   be   grown   by  those  who  care   for  this 


2G0  THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 

class  of  plants.  To  grow  them  successfully,  they  should  have  twelve 
or  fifteen  inches  of  water  above  the  surface  •  of  the  soil.  An  in- 
verted bell-glass,  placed  in  a  large  pot,  makes  a  capital  aquarium  to 
grow  them  in,  and  is  quite  as  suitable  as  the  most  expensive  affair 
that  could  be  manufactured.  But  the  circular  aquariums  are 
stronger,  and  have  a  better  appearance,  and  are  therefore  preferable  ; 
the  square  aquariums  would  answer  perfectly,  but  they  are  expen- 
sive, and  it  will  be  better  to  say  nothing  about  them,  further  than 
to  indicate  their  suitability  for  the  purpose.  If  a  circular  aquarium 
is  employed,  one  eighteen  or  twenty  inches  in  diameter  would  be 
the  best  size,  and  then  there  will  be  no  difficulty  in  providing  the 
proper  depth  of  water.  These  plants  can  be  grown  either  planted 
out  in  a  bed  of  soil  placed  in  the  bottom  of  the  glass,  or  in  pots 
stood  on  a  bed  of  small  gravel  or  pebble-stones  in  the  bottom. 
Planting  them  out  is  preferable ;  but  the  difference  between  grow- 
ing them  turned  out  and  in  pots  is  so  very  slight,  that  the  directions 
will  apply  with  equal  effect  to  both  methods. 

In  preparing  the  aquarium  for  the  plants,  place  a  layer  of  crocks 
in  the  bottom  to  a  depth  of  about  four  inches  in  the  deepest  part, 
and  on  the  crocks  place  the  compost  for  the  roots  to  run  in.  This 
should  consist  of  good  fibry  loam  and  peat,  plentifully  mixed  with 


Ovihandra  fenestealis.     (Complete  Plant.) 

broken  crocks  and  silver  sand,  thoroughly  incorporated  together 
and  used  in  a  rough  lumpy  condition.  Prom  four  to  six  inches  is  a 
good  depth  of  soil,  regulating  it  according  to  size  of  the  plants  and 
glass.  When  the  plants  are  placed  in  position,  the  soil  should  be 
filled  in  about  the  roots  and  pressed  very  firm.  When  this  part  of 
the  work  is  finished  the  soil  should  have  a  good  soaking  of  water, 
through  a  fine  rose,  to  settle  it  properly,  and  clear  the  foliage  of  any 
particles  of  soil  adhering  to  it.  The  aquarium  can  then  be  filled 
with  rain  water,  which  should  range  in  temperature  from  70"  to 
80° ;  75°  being  a  safe  medium.  As  it  is  desirable  to  do  this  with- 
out disturbing  the  soil,  and  malting  the  water  muddy,  do  it  carefully, 
for  the  sediment  which  settles  on  the  leaves  will  not  contribute  to  the 
health  of  the  plant.  To  pour  in  the  water  without  disturbing  the 
soil  at  the  bottom,  place  a  saucer  in  the  glass,  and  then  stand  a 
flower-pot  in  the  saucer,  into   which  the  water  should  be  poured 


THE   FLORAL   WORLD    AND   GARDEN    GUIDE. 


261 


rather  slowly.  The  water  will  run  through  the  hole  in  the  bottom 
of  the  pot  into  the  saucer,  and  distribute  itself  in  the  glass  without 
causing  any  disturbance. 

To  grow  theui  to  the  highest  degree  of  perfection,  a  little  trouble 
must  not  be  objected  to.  A  can  of  soft  water  should  be  placed  on 
the  hot-water  pipes,  and  kept  full  at  all  times,  to  be  devoted 
expressly  to  them.  Every  morning  when  the  other  plants  are  being 
watered,  about  one-third 
of  the  water  should  be 
drawn  oft",  with  a  siphon, 
and  the  glass  filled  up 
with  the  warm  water  which 
has  been  kept  on  the  pipes 
for  the  purpose.  Or  if 
drawing  the  water  oft' 
every  morning  is  too  much 
trouble,  take  the  can  in 
one  hand,  and  place  the 
other  hand  just  under  the 
surface  of  the  water,  and 
pour  the  water  into  that 
hand,  and  let  the  water 
overflow  for  a  short  time. 
This  will  effect  a  change 
of  water  with  but  little 
trouble.  The  reason  for 
placing  the  hand  under- 
neath the  water,  is  to  pre- 
vent the  fresh  supply 
stirring  up  the  mud.  A 
small  siphon  may  also  be 
iitted  to  empty  a  portion 
of  the  glass  every  day, 
which  could  be  filled  up  as 
above  described,  if  pre- 
ferred, but  I  like  the 
overflowing  best.  Once 
a,  week,  or  once  in  every 
two  weeks,  the  glass 
should  be  emptied  with 
a  siphon,  and  the  inside 
have  a  good  washing  to 
remove  every  particle  of 
confervce  and  other  accumulation.  "When  this  is  done,  refill  with 
the  pot  and  saucer  as  advised  in  the  preceding  paragraph. 

Both  species  can  also  be  most  successfully  grown  in  pots  placed 
in  large  wooden  tubs.  They  should  be  put  in  rather  large  pots,  and 
the  rim  of  the  pots  elevated  to  within  about  twelve  inches  of  the 
surface  of  the  water.  They  may  also  be  grown  in  sitting-rooms,  or  in 
the  greenhouse,  in  an  aquarium  heated  on  the  principle  shown  at 
page  95  of  the  Floral  World  for  May,  1362. 


^^^0m^ 


""-via 


OuVIKANDKA   1'ENESTKALIS. 

scape.) 


(Leaf  and  flower- 


262  THE  FLORAL   WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

With  respect  to  their  propagating,  it  is  not  necessary  to  say  much, 
because  it  is  not  a  question  of  much  importance  to  the  amateur,  for 
one  good  specimen  of  each  species  will  be  quite  sufficient ;  there  is 
however,  very  little  difficulty  in  increasing  the  stock  ;  for  when 
grown  vigorously  the  plants  will  flower  and  seed  very  freely.  The 
flower-scapes  when  they  make  their  appearance  above  the  surface, 
and  are  in  proper  condition,  should  be  brushed  lightly  over  with  a 
soft  camel's-hair  brush,  to  insure  the  flowers  setting.  After  this 
they  should  be  left  alone,  and  the  seed  will  drop  into  the  water,  and 
soon  take  root  in  the  soil.  Some  of  the  seeds  will  root  suspended 
in  the  water,  and  float  about  some  time  before  acquiring  fixture. 
It  is  of  little  use  to  attempt  to  gather  the  seed  when  ripe,  and  then 
sow,  for  there  wall  be  little  else  but  failure  ;  but  if  left  alone,  there 
will  be  no  difficulty  experienced  in  raising  a  young  stock. 


VIOLAS  AND  PANSIES  FOR  BEDDING. 

BY   A   IlfiAD    GAEDENEE. 


ETER  the  lamentable  failure  of  Viola  cormita,  and  its 
congener  V.  lutea,  as  bedding  plants,  it  is  a  most  difficult 
matter  to  persuade  people  that  any  of  the  violas,  or  their 
near  relatives  the  pansies,  are  adapted  for  the  embellish- 
ment of  the  flower  garden  during  the  summer  months. 
Yet  there  can  be  no  doubt  in  the  minds  of  those  who  have  paid  any 
attention  to  thsm  that  several,  with  proper  management,  are  most 
valuable  bedders.  In  some  soils  and  situations,  both  the  pansies  and 
violas  succeed  most  satisfactory,  and  produce  a  succession  of  bloom 
throughout  the  summer  season  ;  but  in  others  they  make  but  slow 
progress,  and  go  out  of  bloom  just  at  the  moment  they  should  be  at 
their  best.  They  all  require  during  the  summer  season  a  moderately 
moist  and  comparatively  cool  soil,  and  to  attempt  to  grow  them  in 
soils  of  a  naturally  dry  and  hot  character  would  be  most  unwise. 
The  only  way  to  ascertain  whether  they  will  thrive  in  certain  soils 
and  situations  is  to  plant  a  few  of  each  of  the  varieties  that  will  be 
mentioned  in  a  trial  bed,  and  then  if  it  is  found  that  they  do  well  a 
stock  should  be  propagated.  This  season  has  been  very  favourable 
to  this  class  of  plants,  and  our  beds  of  violas  have  been  the  admira- 
tion of  all  who  have  seen  them.  They  were  also  especially  good  last 
year,  notwithstanding  the  summer  being  one  of  the  hottest  and 
driest  within  the  memory  of  the  present  generation.  The  staple 
soil  of  the  flower  garden  does  not  differ  materially  from  that  of 
hundreds  of  other  flower  gardens,  for  it  is  neither  very  light  or  very 
heavy,  and  moderately  deep.  The  preparation  of  the  beds  is  effected 
in  a  very  simple  manner ;  they  are  dug  up  to  a  moderate  depth  and 
a  barrowful  of  old  hotbed  manure,  and  the  same  quantity  of  decayed 
vegetable  refuse,  incorporated  with  the  soil  of  each  bed,  eight  feet  in 
diameter;  smaller  beds,  of  course,  have  less,  and  larger  ones  more. 
The  beds  that  are  to  be  filled  with  violas  or  pansies  are  not  planted 
with  spring-flowering  plants  because  the  two  former  classes  of  plants 


THE  FLORAL   WORLD   AND   GARDEN    GUIDE.  263 

must  be  established  in  their  summer  quarters  long  before  the  latter 
go  cut  of  bloom.  Many  of  the  failures  of  the  two  violas  mentioned 
at  the  commencement,  may  be  safely  attributed  to  late  planting.  The 
early  part  of  March  is  the  most  suitable  period  for  filling  the  beds, 
and  then  the  plants  have  sufficient  time  to  become  well  established 
before  the  hot  weather  sets  in.  Independent  of  this  consideration, 
it  is  most  important  to  plant  early,  for  the  period  of  their  coming  into 
bloom  is  regulated  by  the  time  they  are  planted,  and  as  our  summer 
seasons  are  so  very  short,  every  day  is  of  consequence.  To  be  able 
to  plant  early,  the  cuttings  must  be  struck  comparatively  early  in  the 
autumn  and  be  well  established  by  the  winter,  to  admit  of  the  plants 
being  wintered  without  protection,  beyond  that  required  to  protect 
them  from  an  excessive  amount  of  moisture  or  severe  frosts.  They 
are  all  reputed  hardy  ;  but  in  soils  in  which  they  succeed  most 
satisfactorily  during  the  summer,  a  great  risk  is  run  of  losing  a 
considerable  part  of  the  stock  from  the  combined  action  of  the  frost 
and  rains  during  the  winter.  Damp  is  a  greater  enemy  than  cold, 
and  if  they  are  kept  moderately  dry,  and  the  frame  in  which  they  are 
wintered  ventilated  freely  whenever  the  weather  is  favourable  to 
air-giving,  the  severest  frosts  only  will  be  capable  of  doing  any  harm 
to  them  when  the  lights  are  closed  and  a  mat  thrown  over  the  glass. 
The  best  plan  of  admitting  air  in  unsettled  weather  is  by  tilting  the 
lights  both  at  the  back  and  the  front,  and  then  a  current  of  air  will 
pass  over  the  plants  without  their  being  saturated  with  moisture  in 
case  of  heavy  rains.  In  very  damp  foggy  weather  the  lights  may  ba 
closed  with  advantage ;  but  the  plants  must  not  be  deprived  of  a 
due  share  of  air,  or  the  danger  of  their  perishing  will  be  greater 
than  if  they  were  growing  in  the  open  border.  The  cuttings  can  be 
struck  any  time  during  the  months  of  August  and  September  ;  but 
the  third  and  fourth  week  of  the  first-mentioned  month  i3  the  most 
desirable  period  for  putting  them  in,  as  it  affords  them  plenty  of 
time  to  become  well  established  by  the  winter,  without  becoming 
too  large.  Select  the  young  side-shoots  that  have  not  attained 
to  a  flowering  size  ;  take  them  off  just  below  the  third  joint  from  the 
top  ;  and  after  removing  the  lower  pair  of  leaves  insert  them  in  pans 
or  boxes  filled  with  sandy  soil,  and  then  place  them  in  a  cold  frame. 
Shade  when  necessary,  keep  rather  close,  especially  during  the  first 
fortnight,  and  sprinkle  the  cuttings  lightly  once  or  twice  a  day  to 
keep  the  foliage  fresh  until  they  are  furnished  with  roots.  When 
nicely  rooted,  plant  at  a  distance  of  three  inches  apart  each  way  in  a 
bed  of  light  sandy  soil,  made  up  in  a  cold  frame,  or  if  a  frame  can- 
not be  spared  make  up  the  bed  in  the  open  and  protect  them  from 
frost  by  means  of  mats  or  other  covering.  When  planted  in  the 
spring  they  can  be  lifted  with  a  trowel,  and  if  carefully  handled  they 
will  hardly  feel  the  shift.  Several  very  fine  new  violas  have  been 
introduced  quite  recently,  and  the  best,  so  far  as  my  experience  has 
gone  with  them,  are,  of  those  with  yellow  flowers :  Parker's 
V.  lutea  major,  golden  yellow,  and  Dickson  and  Co.'s  V.  lutea 
pallida,  clear  primrose  yellow,  and  V.  sauveolens  major,  clear 
deep  yellow.  Of  the  dark-flowered  varieties  :  Dickson  and  Co.'s 
V.    amcena  oculata,  and   V.  lutea   Purple  King,   deep  purple   with 


264  THE  FLORAL   WORLD   AND   GARDEN  GUIDE. 

yellow  eye.  The  most  effective  of  the  dark-flowered  varieties  of  an 
anterior  date  to  the  above  is  Henderson's  V.  Imperial  Blue 
Perfection ;  but  the  most  beautiiul  is  Williams's  V.  Blue  Perfection, 
which  has  finer  flowers,  but  does  not  appear  to  bloom  quite  so 
early  in  the  spring  or  produce  its  flowers  so  continuously  during 
the  summer  months  33  Henderson's  variety,  which,  by  the  way, 
is  only  suitable  for  planting  in  masses.  Amongst  the  yellow- 
flowering  varieties,  V.  lutea  grandiflora,  raised  a  few  years  since  by 
Mr.  Tyerman,  Curator  of  the  Liverpool  Botanic  Gardens,  still  stands 
pre-eminent;  the  flowers  are  large,  of  a  rich  golden  yellow,  and  are 
produced  in  the  greatest  possible  profusion  throughout  the  summer 
and  far  into  the  autumn.  Established  plants  will  commence  flower- 
ing in  February,  and  continue  in  bloom,  more  or  less,  until  the 
following  autumn ;  but  when  especially  intended  for  summer 
decoration,  spring  planting  is  desirable.  The  best  yellow-flowered 
bedding  pansy  with  which  I  am  acquainted,  suitable  for  summer 
bedding,  is  Pride  of  Pufford,  a  variety  sent  out  by  Mr.  Cannell,  of 
Woolwich,  in  the  early  part  of  the  present  year.  In  growth  it  is 
vigorous  and  wiry,  and  produces  a  succession  of  flowers  from  early 
in  the  spring  until  the  autumn.  It  is  used  very  extensively  at 
Enville  Hall,  for  bedding  purposes,  and  enjoys  a  very  high 
reputation  wherever  it  is  grown.  It  is  by  no  means  expensive,  for 
when  first  sent  out  the  price  was  only  a  few  shillings  per  dozen. 
Other  good  bedders,  which  however,  are  only  suitable  for  spring 
decoration,  are  Ware's  Cloth  of  Gold,  yellow;  Downie's  Imperial  Blue, 
deep  purplish  blue;  Great  Eastern,  white;  Hooper's  Stmshine, 
coppery  orange,  very  distinct ;  Hooper's  Mrs.  Shirley  Hibherd,  rosy 
lilac.  The  Cliveden  varieties,  in  the  several  colours  of  blue,  white, 
and  yellow,  are  showy,  but  decidedly  inferior  to  the  above. 


EAELY    TULIPS. 


fHESE  beautiful  and  gaudy-coloured  flowers  are  among 
some  of  the  most  useful  that  can  be  found  for  the 
decoration  of  the  flower  garden  during  the  spring 
months.  That  this  is  so,  is  proved  by  the  fact  that 
they  are  so  much  in  request  for  spring  work  in  the 
geometric  garden.  But  their  use  is  by  no  means  limited  to  the  flower 
garden ;  as  for  pot  culture,  scarcely  anything  else  can  compete  with 
them  during  winter.  It  is  possible,  by  judicious  planting,  to  get 
the  Early  Single  Van  Thol  in  flower  by  the  middle  of  November, 
and  even  earlier ;  then  to  succeed  this  well-known  variety,  there  are 
such  precocious  flowering  kinds  as  Scarlet  Van  Thol,  Golden  Prince, 
White  Pottebalcker,  'Royal  Standard,  and  others,  all  of  which  are 
invaluable  for  growth  in  pots  for  the  decoration  of  the  conservatory, 
and  for  windows. 

There  are  two  distinct  classes  of  tulips  in  our  gardens :  the  one 
represented  by  the  early-flowering  kinds  now  under  notice;  the 
other  by  the  late-flowering,  or  show  tulips.     The  former    we  are 


TUE  FLORAL   WORLD  AND   GARDEN   GUIDE.  265 

informed,  -were  obtained  from  such  species  as  Tulipa  nutans,  and 
T.  suaveolens;  the  latter  from  the  gaudy  Tulipa  Gesneriana. 
Respecting  the  late-flowering  or  show  kinds,  something  shall  be  said 
later. 

Messrs.  Veitch  and  Sons,  of  Chelsea,  are  in  the  habit  of  plant- 
ing out  each  winter  a  number  of  beds  of  the  early-blooming  tulips, 
to  test  their  adaptability  for  bedding  purposes.  Set  down  in  the 
midst  of  their  nursery,  the  beds  make  a  charming  and  effective 
display ;  and  visitors  to  the  nursery  have  found  them  to  be  one  of  its 
not  least  interesting  features.  I  thought  it  well,  in  looking  through 
them,  to  grasp  them  in  their  several  shades  of  colour,  and  by  this 
means  endeavour  to  show  the  best  and  most  distinct  in  each  section. 

Taking  the  white  flowers,  the  two  best  are  undoubtedly  Princess 
Helena,  and  the  well-known  White  PottehaJcker.  The  former  i3  an 
excellent  variety  for  bedding,  the  flowers  pure  white,  the  habit 
dwarf  and  erect.  It  deserves  to  be  highly  recommended,  and  is  not 
very  expensive.  The  useful  old  White  Pottebakker,  which  comes  a 
little  later  in  bloom,  yet  holds  its  own  as  a  good,  cheap,  serviceable 
white  variety,  and  will  do  so  for  years  to  come.  It  has  a  stiff  rigid 
habit ;  the  flowers  large,  and  of  good  form.  Gomte  de  Mirabeau 
may  be  classed  with  the  whites,  though  it  gets  somewhat  tinted  with 
pale  lively  pink  when  the  flowers  have  been  out  some  time  ;  it  is  not 
so  large,  nor  is  it  of  such  a  good  build,  as  White  Pottebakker,  but  is 
useful  as  a  variety  and  comes  into  bloom  with  La  Belle  Alliance,  a 
capital  brilliant  scarlet-crimson  flower.  Comte  de  Mirabeau  appears 
to  be  identical  with  La  Heine,  or  Queen  Victoria. 

The  earliest  of  all  the  yellow  tulips  is  Chrysolora,  of  a  capital  hue 
of  pure  yellow.  This  should  be  noted  as  a  very  useful  early-flower- 
ing variety  for  bedding  purposes.  Prince  de  Ligne,  a  variety  that 
has  been  highly  spoken  of,  is  inferior  to  Chrysolora,  both  in  colour 
and  build,  and  has  pointed  petals.  Yellow  Prince  is  an  excellent 
bedder ;  it  has  fine  large  showy  flowers,  and  a  nice  upright  rigid 
habit,  and  can  be  bracketed  with  Chrysolora  as  the  two  most  useful 
of  the  single  kinds.  Yellow  Pottebaklier  is  a  fine  bold  showy  tulip, 
but  apt  to  come  striped  with  red  :  under  which  form  it  is  known  as 
the  Med-striped  Pottebalihcr. 

The  earliest  scarlet  tulip  is  Brutus  ;  it  is  vivid  in  colour,  and  has 
a  very  slight  yellow  feather  on  the  edges,  and  being  dwarf  in  habit 
and  not  high  in  price,  it  is  very  useful  for  massing.  Scarlet  Van 
Thol  is  an  inestimable  bedding  tulip,  early,  dwarf,  and  fine  in  colour, 
and  very  cheap ;  a  bed  of  this  is  a  floral  picture  of  no  common 
order.  It  may  be  stated  that  it  comes  into  flower  about  two  days 
earlier  than  La  Belle  Alliance  ;  the  latter  is  a  grandly  effective  tulip, 
and  in  the  gleaming  sunshine  the  hue  is  very  rich  and  bright. 
Vermilion  Brilliant  is  also  a  flue  showy  tulip,  of  a  rich  vermilion- 
crimson  hue,  and  comes  into  bloom  about  the  same  time  as  Scarlet 
Van  Thol,  and  is  larger  than  this  well-known  variety.  Gouleur 
Cardinal  is  a  splendid  bedding  tulip,  having  a  most  unusual  dwarf, 
rigid  habit ;  the  flowers  are  of  a  rich  dark  red,  with  a  vivid  crimson 
feather  on  the  edges  ;  it  is  a  little  late  in  blooming,  but  it  serves 
the  important  purpose  of  giving  a  succession  of  bloom.     Couronne 


206  THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

Pourpre  is  a  very  fine  dark  shaded  red  tulip,  perhaps  the  deepest 
coloured  of  all ;  and  it  comes  into  flower  with  La  Belle  Alliance,  to 
which,  by  reason  of  the  peculiar  bright  hue  of  the  latter,  it  offers  an 
admirable  contrast ;  it,  too,  has  a  dwarf  erect  habit.  Paul  Moreehe, 
a  distinct  flower  of  a  bright  cerise-crimson  hue,  is  well  worthy  the 
attention  of  bedders,  being  of  a  fine  and  striking  tone  of  colour. 

In  the  way  of  buff-coloured  tulips,  Thomas  Moore  stands  alone 
in  its  peculiar  distinctiveness  of  character.  If  not  quite  so  effective 
as  the  yellow  selfs,  it  is  yet  worthy  of  attention,  because  having  so 
much  individuality. 

There  is  a  grand  wealth  of  violet-coloured  flowers,  or  those 
having  violet  in  their  character.  The  grandest  of  all  is  Proserpine, 
a  truly  regal  tulip  of  a  rich  bright  silken  violet  rose  hue,  of  very 
large  size,  and  magnificent  build.  It  is  unrivalled  as  a  bedder  or  for 
growth  in  pots.  Its  high  price  is  against  its  extended  use,  and  yet 
this  also  shows  that  the  supply  scarcely  keeps  pace  with  the  demand, 
for  the  high  price  has  been  maintained  for  a  considerable  period. 
The  darkest  of  all  the  flowers  of  this  shade  is  IVouvermann,  of  a 
deep  purplish  violet  hue  and  very  distinct  ;  Van  cler  Neer  is  rather 
paler  than  Wouvermann,  and  as  a  flower  is  of  a  splendid  build,  and 
of  large  size  ;  this  also  is  a  fine  bedding  variety,  but  high  in  price. 
Queen  of  Violets  is  a  fine  pale-coloured  flower  of  good  build,  and 
quite  distinct,  and  appears  to  be  identical  with  President  Lincoln. 
Another  good  pale  violet  flower,  and  very  useful,  is  Moliere.  A  newer 
variety,  of  much  the  same  shade  as  Proserpine,  is  Cramoisie  Pourpre, 
but  later  and  not  nearly  of  so  good  a  build. 

The  edged  flowers  comprise  some  splendid  tulips,  large  and 
showy.  The  premier  is  Keizer  Kroon,  bright  shining  red,  broadly 
edged  with  deep  yellow,  magnificent  alike  for  beds  or  pots ;  a  bed 
of  this  grand  variety,  on  a  bright  spring  day,  is  a  sight  long  to  be 
remembered.  Next  comes  Duchesse  de  Parma,  a  large  and  showy 
flower,  having  an  orange-red  base,  and  feathered  with  yellow;  this,  too, 
is  a  very  effective  bedder.  Due  dWremberg  is  much  in  the  same 
way,  but  smaller,  and  of  scarcely  so  deep  a  colour.  Princesse 
(PAutriche  is  a  broken  or  feathered  form  of  Duchesse  de  Parma,  the 
base  being  streaked  with  yellow.  A  bed  of  Duchesse  de  Parma  is 
almost  certain  to  show  the  broken  form ;  while  a  bed  of  the  broken 
form  is  very  apt  to  show  flowers  having  an  unbroken  base.  Le 
Matelas,  white,  flushed  with  rose,  may  be  described  as  an  excellent 
fair-weather  tulip,  but  gets  washed  out  in  wet  weather.  Pose 
Luisante  and  Rouge  Luisante  appear  to  be  the  same ;  if  there  is 
any  difference  between  them,  the  latter  has  more  colour  in  the  base. 
At  any  rate,  it  may  be  safely  recommended  as  a  good  dwarf  early  tulip. 

The  most  numerous  section  consists  of  striped  flowers,  as  of  these 
there  is  a  great  variety,  and  they  comprise  some  very  pretty  and 
distinct  types.  There  is  a  very  fine  and  handsome  rosy-cerise  self 
tulip  named  Cramoisie  Superh,  which  appears  to  be  identical  with 
one  known  under  the  name  of  Monument,  or  nearly  so.  The  broken 
form  of  this  has  white  stripes ;  it  is  very  handsome,  and  known 
under  the  name  of  Cramoisie  Poyale.  It  is  very  effective  both  for 
pots  or  beds.     Boi  Pepin,  having  crimson  flakes  and  stripes  on  a  light 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  2G7 

ground  is  a  very  pretty  dwarf  growing  tulip,  but  better  adapted  for 
pots  than  beds  ;  besides  which,  it  is  one  of  the  most  expensive  of  the 
varieties  grown,  lloyal  Standard  is  a  pretty  and  useful  striped 
flower,  tbe  ground  white,  with  feathering  of  rosy-crimson.  Bride  of 
Haarlem  is  something  in  the  same  way,  but  more  colour  in  it,  and 
of  better  quality,  and  a  good  forcing  variety,  which  lloyal  Standard 
is  not.  Joost  van  Vondel,  crimson,  with  a  pale  feather  along  the 
base  of  the  florets,  and  occasionally  with  white  stripes,  is  a  flower 
of  very  fine  build  and  large  size,  and  effective  in  pots,  but  also  good 
for  beds,  being  dwarf  in  growth  and  keeping  so,  however  richly 
grown,  and  will  do  for  a  self-bed,  as  the  stripe  is  generally  some- 
what indistinct,  Fabiola,  a  distinct  variety  of  a  rosy-violet  ground 
flaked  with  white,  is  better  adapted  for  pots  than  beds,  as  when 
grown  in  the  open  ground  the  colours  are  apt  to  come  dull.  Grand 
Due  de  Russie  appears  to  be  identical  with  Fabiola.  Globe  de  Reg- 
nant, deep  violet,  striped  and  feathered  with  white,  is  a  good  useful 
tulip,  though  rather  dull-looking.  Golden  Standard,  having  golden 
stripes  instead  of  white,  is  also  a  good  useful  dwarf  bedding  variety. 

The  double  tulips  are  much  more  restricted  in  numbers  than  the 
single  kinds,  and  with  the  exception  of  a  very  few  well-known 
serviceable  varieties,  are  not  near  so  much  in  request  for  bedding 
purposes.  The  glorious  old  Tournesol  stands  ahead  of  all  as  yet,  and 
of  other  edged  varieties.  Gloria  Solis  comes  next  for  effectiveness, 
and  is  also  very  cheap.  Velvet  Gem  has  the  same  coloured  base  as 
Gloria  Solis,  and  a  very  slight  feather  of  yellow  on  the  edges  of  the 
florets.  Duke  of  York  ia  a  distinct,  but  scarcely  effective  edged 
flower  when  used  in  a  bed  ;  it  has  a  dark  rose-coloured  base,  and  an 
edging  of  white,  but  it  is  very  pretty  in  pots.  Gouronne  de  Roses, 
deep  bright  crimson,  is  a  most  acceptable  beddiug  variety,  being 
dwarf  in  growth,  and  very  showy.  The  finest  self-scarlet  is  Impera- 
tor  Rubrorum,  it  is  large,  full,  and  very  showy.  The  Yelloio  Tour- 
nesol is  a  good  yellow  self,  and,  as  compared  with  yellow  rose,  has  a 
more  erect  habit.  All  the  double  flowers  are  apt  to  hang  their  heads 
and  consequently  are  not  so  effective  in  beds  as  the  single  kinds,  which 
are  more  rigid  in  the  flower-stalks,  and  are  not  so  apt  to  fall  about 

The  short  duration  of  the  blooming  season  is  a  complaint  often 
laid  to  the  charge  of  tulips,  and  is  used  a3  an  argument  against  their 
use  in  the  flower  garden.  Generally  speaking,  the  case  is  a  little 
over-stated  against  the  tulip  ;  they  do  continue  in  bloom  for  a  con- 
siderable period,  and  if  a  little  attention  be  only  paid  to  their 
relative  precocity,  a  very  fair  succession  of  bloom  can  be  obtained. 
It  is  certain  there  is  nothing  else  can  give  such  bold  imposing- 
masses  of  colour  during  the  spring  months  as  the  tulip.  My  advice 
to  spring  gardeners  is,  always  have  a  base  to  the  beds  in  which  you 
plant  your  tulips.  I  once  saw  at  Ealing  Park  a  charming  spring 
bed,  and  that,  too,  composed  but  of  simple  elements  :  namely,  a  base 
of  the  white-flowering  Arabis  albida,  from  the  midst  of  which  rose 
single  red  hyacinths.  Looked  at  from  the  distance  of  a  hundred 
yards  or  so,  with  a  dark  background  of  shubbery  to  throw  it  up,  this 
was  a  very  pleasant  floral  picture  indeed.  This  illustration  serves  to 
show  how  tulips  can  be  used  in  conjunction  with  other  things;  some 


268  THE   FLORAL    WOULD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

to  bloom  earlier  than  the  tulips,  and  others  later.  Then  foliaged- 
beds  are  being  much  introduced  into  our  spring  gardens,  and  make 
such  excellent  bases  for  tulips. 

Nor  must  beds  of  mixed  tulips  be  overlooked.  Some  of  these 
are  very  charming  indeed,  and  we  advocate  their  use  in  consequence, 
even  though  some  may  be  a  little  dwarfer  in  growth  than  others.  A 
bed  of  mixed  tulips  among  a  few  beds  of  self-coloured  flowers  form 
a  nice  and  acceptable  contrast  to  the  masses  of  colour,  in  the  same 
way  that  a  bed  of  foliaged  plants  softens  the  effect  of  glaring  masse3 
of  colour  in  the  summer  flower  garden. 

Homo  Sum. 


THE  AUTUMN  AND  WINTER  MANAGEMENT   OF 
FRUIT   TREES   UNDER   GLASS. 

BY    WILLIAM    COLS, 

Head  Gardener,  Eiling  Park,  Middlesex. 

URING  the  autumn  and  winter  months  the  proper  manage- 
ment of  fruit  trees  under  glass  does  not  require  a  vast 
amount  of  skill,  yet  it  is  of  sufficient  importance  to  admit 
of  attention  being  directed  to  it  without  any  apology 
being  necessary.  In  dealing  with  this  question  it  is 
impossible  to  ignore  the  fact,  that  a  very  common  impression  prevails 
to  the  effect  that  the  trees  are  able  to  take  care  of  themselves  from 
the  time  the  fruit  is  gathered  until  they  start  into  growth  again. 
That  this  impression  is  erroneous,  all  who  have  paid  any  attention 
to  fruit-growing  will  be  prepared  to  admit ;  but  it  is  necessary  to 
point  out  its  existence  in  justification  of  a  large  proportion  of  the 
remarks  that  will  follow. 

One  of  the  principal  points  in  connection  with  the  management 
of  fruit  trees  in  the  autumn  is  their  full  exposure  to  the  weather  : 
when  the  lights  can  be  taken  oft'  and  the  foliage  exposed  to  the 
beneficial  influence  of  the  autumnal  dews  and  rains,  a  considerable 
amount  of  labour  in  syringing  the  trees  will  be  saved.  There  are  a 
few  cultivators  who  yet  believe  in  the  doctrine,  that  after  the  fruit 
is  gathered,  the  red-spider  should  be  looked  upon  as  a  blessing, 
rather  than  as  a  plague.  They  imagine  that  with  the  maturation 
of  the  fruit  the  functions  of  the  leaves  are  completed,  and  therefore 
suppose  that  the  sooner  they  fall  off  the  better,  to  more  fully  expose 
the  young  wood  to  the  air  and  light.  The  thorough  ripening  of  the 
wood  is  of  considerable  importance  undoubtedly  ;  but  it  must  be 
borne  in  mind  that  the  embryo  flower-buds  are  formed  in  the 
autumn,  and  that  healthy  foliage  plays  a  most  important  part  in  their 
formation;  hence  it  is  important  to  keep  the  leaves  clean  and  quite 
free  from  insect  pests  of  any  kind,  until  they  fall  naturally.  When 
the  trees  are  uncovered,  the  rains  and  dews  will  prevent  the  red- 
spider   or   thrips  making  much  headway,  and  will  also  materially 


THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND   GARDEN   GUIDE.  269 

assist  in  swelling  up  the  buds.     Trees  growing  in  houses  with  fixed 
roofs  should,  to  compensate  for  the  benefits  they  are  deprived  of,  be 
syringed  at  least  three  times  a  week,  from  this  time  until  the  end 
of  September ;  and  if  at  all  infested  with  black  or  green  fly,  or  with 
thrips,  they  should  be  fumigated  three  or  four  times,  with  two  days 
between   each   operation.      Trees   that   are  uncovered   should    be 
smoked  two  or  three  times,  or  more  if  necessary,  before  the  lights 
are  taken  off,  provided  there  is  the  least  vestige  of  either  of  the 
above-mentioned  pests  upon  them.     Clear  water  is  valuable  as  a 
preventive,  but  when  either  the  green-fly  or  thrips  have  become 
firmly  established,  something  stronger  is  necessary  to  dislodge  them, 
and  nothing  can  possibly  surpass  tobacco  smoke,  when  used  in  a 
judicious  manner.     All  fruit  trees  in  pots  should  be  removed  to 
the  open,   where  they  will  have  full  exposure   to  the  sun  and  to 
the  air  throughout  the  day.      The  pots  should  be  stood   upon  a 
bed  of  coal-ashes  to  prevent  the  worms  passing  through  the  holes 
in  the  bottom  ;  and  to  keep  the  roots  cool,  and  ,to  prevent  the  soil 
drying  up  too  quickly,  pack  some  loose  material,   such  as  parti  v 
decayed  leaves,  or  tan,  or  cocoauut-fibre  refuse,  between  and  about 
the  pots.     With  reference  to  winter  management,  it  must  be  said 
that  trees  do  not  of  course  require  so  much  moisture  about  the 
roots  after  they  have  completed  their  growth,   as  they  do  when 
growing  freely  and  have  also  a  crop  of  fruit  to  support ;  but  at  no 
stage  must  the  soil  be  allowed  to  become  dust  dry.     Speaking  in  a 
general  way,  sufficient  moisture  should  be  administered  to  keep  the 
leaves  from  flagging,  and  no  more  ;   and  in  winter  the  soil  should  be 
kept  moderately  moist  only.     One  of  the  chief  causes  of  the  flower- 
buds  of  fruit  trees  grown  under  glass  dropping  off  prematurely,  is 
due  to  the  soil  being  kept  too  dry  during  the  winter.     An  excessively 
high  temperature  in  starting  the  trees  and  exposing  them  to  sudden 
changes  will  also  cause  the  buds  to  fall  off,  but  the  most  general 
cause  is  undoubtedly  dryness  at  the  roots.     A  moderately  thorough 
soaking  of  water  about  once  a  month  during  the  winter  season  will 
suffice  ;  and  to  prevent  the  borders  being  kept  in  a  constant  state  of 
saturation  wheu  the  trees  are  at  rest,  the  lights  should  be  put  on 
early  in  November.     It  is  also  worthy  of  remark,  in  connection  with 
this  branch  of  the  subject,   that  all  outside  borders  of  early  bouses 
should  be  covered  early  in  the  last-mentioned  month  to  retain  the 
warmth  of  the  soil  as  far  as  it  is  possible  to  do  so.     A  layer  of  newly 
gathered  leaves,  about  fifteen  or  eighteen  inches  in  thickness,  and 
thatched  with  long  litter  or  straw,  forms  the  most  effectual  covering, 
as  it  throws  off'  the  wet  and  also  assists  in  keeping  the  soil  warm. 
It  is  not  my  intention  to  say  anything  about  pruning  and  training, 
but  it  will  perhaps  be  useful  to   many  to  know,  that  weakly  shoots 
which  will  not  be  required,  may  be  removed,  if  the  trees  are  over- 
crowded, and  the  wood  that  will  be  required  for  laying  in,  for  bearing 
next  year's  crop,  will  be  properly  matured  through  receiving  a  fair 
share  of  light. 


270  THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 


SCHIZANTHUS   CULTI7EE  FOR   CONSERVATORY 
DECORATION. 

BY   A    KENTISH    GABDENEE. 

|EW  of  our  half-hardy  annuals  are  so  well  adapted  for 
pot  cultivation  as  these  useful  plants.  Whether  they 
are  not  generally  known,  or  whether  cultivators  have 
found  something  else  to  suib  their  taste  better,  it 
matters  not ;  but  certain  it  is  they  are  not  so  exten- 
sively grown  as  they  deserve  to  be,  for  their  management  is  so 
simple  that  any  one  with  a  cool  and  light  airy  greenhouse  can  grow 
them ;  indeed,  it  is  in  this  position  they  succeed  the  best. 

The  varieties  known  as  8.  jnnnatus,  8.  pinnatus  Prestii,  8. 
Hooker ii,  and  8.  Grahami,  are  all  erect-growing  kinds,  and  when 
well  done  will  attain  the  height  of  three  or  four  feet.  Sow  the  seed 
on  a  warm  border  out  of  doors  the  first  week  in  September.  Sow 
very  thinly,  and  be  careful  to  secure  a  proper  amount  of  moisture 
in  the  soil,  so  that  the  seed  may  soon  vegetate  ;  for  if  this  is 
not  attended  to,  the  seed  becomes  parched  by  the  action  of  a  bright 
sun  or  a  long-continued  drought.  When  well  up,  they  should  be 
thinned  out  to  twelve  inches  apart,  to  secure  sturdy,  compact- 
growing  plants.  If  kept  free  from  weeds  after  this,  they  will  take 
care  of  themselves  till  the  first  week  in  October,  at  which  time  they 
should  be  taken  up  with  a  trowel,  and  potted  in  well-drained  six- 
inch  pots.  The  soil  should  be  light,  with  a  liberal  sprinkling  of 
sand  ;  but  in  potting,  the  greatest  care  is  required  with  their  roots, 
or  they  will  be  injured,  for  they  are  many  in  number,  but  very 
slight  and  tender.  Half-a-dozen  plants  of  each  sort  will  be  enough 
for  small  gardens  ;  but  it  is  best  to  take  enough,  in  case  one  or 
two  should  be  lost  during  the  winter.  When  all  are  potted,  stand 
them  in  a  cold  pit  or  frame  for  a  few  days,  or  on  a  shady  shelf  in  the 
greenhouse  ;  but  when  well  established  in  their  pots,  remove  them 
at  once  to  a  light  airy  shelf  in  a  cool  greenhouse,  putting  them 
as  near  the  glass  as  possible.  In  this  position  they  will  want  but  a 
moderate  supply  of  water  during  winter,  for  the  object  is  to  keep  them 
as  much  at  rest  as  is  consistent  with  safety.  Imperfect  drainage 
is  fatal  to  them  during  November  and  two  following  months,  so  that 
they  must  be  carefully  examined  if  symptoms  of  ill-health  are 
perceptible,  for  when  the  soil  becomes  water-logged,  they  damp  off 
at  the  collar,  and  of  course  never  recover. 

As  the  days  lengthen  in  the  spring,  and  the  sun's  power  in- 
creases, they  will  begin  to  make  a  fresh  growth,  which  should 
be  encouraged  if  the  end  cf  February  is  near  at  hand,  by  shifting 
them  at  once  into  their  blooming  pots.  For  an  ordinary  greenhouse, 
an  eight-inch  pot  will  suffice  ;  for  a  conservatory  of  any  pretensions, 
a  ten-inch  pot  may  be  used  with  advantage.  This  shift  to  the  bloom- 
ing pots  is  recommended,  because  I  have  found  that  to  remove 
them  successively  from  one  sized  pot  to  the  other,  their  roots  are  so 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  271 

slender  and  delicate,  that  to  prevent  an  injury  in  removing  them  i8 
almost  next  to  impossible.  Neither  is  it  desirable  to  do  so,  for  when 
once  started  again,  they  make  rapid  progress,  and  are  all  the  better 
for  not  receiving  any  check.  Employ  a  moderately  heavy  soil  for 
them  to  bloom  in ;  one  half  of  good  loam,  and  the  remaining  half 
some  turfy  soil,  well  mixed  together.  Place  a  neatly-trimmed  stake 
for  the  leader  of  each  plant,  which  is  all  the  training  they  require, 
for  to  give  more  is  to  spoil  their  beauty,  and  if  they  do  require  it,  it 
is  sure  and  certain  evidence  that  the  culture  has  not  been  good, 
or  they  would  not  want  it.  They  must  have  no  pinchiug,  but 
abundauce  of  fresh  air  when  the  thermometer  stands  above  35°. 
When  introduced  amongst  the  first  batch  of  pelargoniums  aud 
other  spring  flowers,  they  are  very  effective. 


ANTIRRHINUMS  AND   PENTSTEMONS. 

BT   AN   AMATEUR   FLORIST. 

INCE  the  reaction  which  has  taken  place  in  favour  of 

hardy  flowers,  the  two  classes  of  plants  named  at  the 

head  of  these   remarks   have   increased  in   popularity 

to   a  wonderful  extent,  and  to  speak  of  the  beauty  of 

these  flowers,  or  otherwise  extol  their  merits,  would  be 

entirely  out  of  place.     This  being  the  case,  the  cultural  details  can 

be  dealt  with,  and  the  names  of  a  few  of  the  best  sorts  indicated 

without  further  preface.     The  improvement  which  has  been  effected 

within  the  last  few  years  in  the  flowers  of  both  classes,  has  been  very 

marked,  and  it  might  be  said  with  safety  that  all  sent  out  more  than 

four  or  five  years  since  are  quite  surpassed,  and  to  buy  them  would 

be  little  less  than  a  waste  of  money.     The  principal  improvements 

we  have  to  boast  of  are  in  the  main  due  to  the  efforts  of  Messrs. 

Downie,  Laird,  and  Laing,  of  Stanstead  Park  Nurseries,    Eorest 

Hill.     Messrs.  E.  Gr.  Henderson  and  Son,  of  St.  John's  Wood,  have 

assisted   in  the  good  work  by    raising  a   series    of  dwarf-growino- 

Antirrhinums    that  are   certainly  most   valuable  for  flower- warden 

decoration  and  for  pot-culture.     The  Continental  florists  have  also 

paid  considerable  attention  to  the   Pentstemon,  and  have  sent  us 

over  some  good  varieties ;  but  the  flowers  of  most  of  the  continental 

varieties  are  too  short  in  the  tube,  in   proportion  to  their  size   to 

satisfy  the  florist.     The  varieties  raised  at  Forest  Hill  are  free  from 

this  defect,  and  after  looking  at  W.  E.  Gumbleton,  and  Stanstead  Rival, 

two  varieties  sent  out  from  thence  during  last  spring,  I  have  almost 

come  to  the  conclusion  that  further  improvement  is  impossible.     A 

set  of  new  varieties  is  sent  out  from  the  above-mentioned  nurseries 

every  spring,  all  more  or  less  good,  and  from   those  sent  out  in  the 

3pring  of  the  present  year,  the  following  are  such  as  no  grower  of  Pent- 

stemons  should  be  without,  namely  : — Colonel  Long,  claret  crimson 

white  throat,  delicately  pencilled  ;  Delicatissimum,  pure  white  tinted 

with  bright  pink  ;   George  Amer,  purplish  maroon,  with  white  throat 

richly  tinted  with  dark  crimson  ;  John   Wilson,  bright  rosy  crimson' 


272  THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 

pure  white  throat,  pencilled  with  rose  ;  Lady  Boswell,  deep  pink, 
throat  white,  with  broad  margin  of  carmine  pink ;  Miss  Baillie, 
brilliant  rosy  scarlet,  pure  white  throat,  veined  with  scarlet;  Magenta, 
bright  magenta,  flushed  with  purple,  the  throat  painted  with  dark 
claret ;  Polly  King,  rosy  crimson,  white  throat,  pencilled  with 
crimson ;  Rev.  C.  P.  Peach,  purplish  crimson,  white  throat,  finely 
pencilled  with  carmine  ;  Stanstead  Rival,  bright  scarlet  crimson, 
pure  white  throat,  slightly  pencilled  with  light  carmine  ;  W.  E. 
Gumbleton,  deep  purplish  rose,  throat  pure  white.. 

Those  who  take  Pentstemons  in  hand  for  the  first  time  should 
begin  with  the  older  varieties,  and  the  under-mentioned  twenty-four 
will  form  the  best  collection  that  could  be  had  without  the  newer 
varieties  mentioned  above  ;  namely,  Agnes  Laing,  rose,  white  throat ; 
Arthur  M'Hardy,  scarlet,  throat  white,  pencilled  with  crimson; 
Arthur  Sterry,  rosy  purple,  white  throat,  Black  Knight,  maroon, 
light  throat  ;  Candidate,  purplish  rose,  white  throat  ;  Colin  Bell, 
rosy  scarlet,  throat  pure  white,  heavily  painted  with  crimson  ;  Gloire 
de  Dennice,  pink,  throat  light,  prettily  painted  ;  Grandis,  carmine, 
throat  white,  pencilled  with  crimson  ;  John  Poio,  red,  white  throat ; 
James  Rothschild,  crimson  purple,  clear  white  throat ;  Melanie 
Lalanette,  delicate  rose,  white  throat ;  Monarch,  deep  crimson  ;  Mrs. 
Peter  Cator,  crimson,  throat  white,  pencilled  with  red ;  Madame 
Louis  Schmitzer,  white,  tinged  with  purple ;  Painted  Lady,  rose, 
throat  white,  painted  with  crimson;  Purple  Perfection,  purplish 
crimson,  throat  white,  varied  with  rose ;  Novelty,  pink  throat,  painted 
with  crimson ;  Purple  King,  deep  purple-crimson,  throat  white, 
veined  with  rose  ;  Purple,  purple-violet,  white  throat,  pencilled  with 
deep  rose  ;  Queen  Victoria,  white,  tinted  with  rose  ;  Rosy  Gem,  rosy 
crimson,  throat  pure  white ;  Souvenir  de  Matthieu  Fernet,  purplish 
amaranth,  throat  pencilled  with  crimson  ;  Stanstead  Surprise,  deep 
purple,  white  throat ;  Snoivdrop,  pure  white ;  W.  P.  Laird,  light 
blue,  pure  white  throat. 

The  most  beautiful  of  the  new  Antirrhinums  sent  out  by  Messrs. 
Downie,  Laird,  and  Laing  last  spring  are : — Charming,  delicate 
pink,  prettily  striped  and  mottled  with  deep  rose  ;  Clio,  yellow  and 
buff,  mottled  and  striped  with  red  ;  Bitriv,  white,  striped  and 
splashed  with  scarlet ;  Fortuna,  pure  white,  striped  with  rosy 
purple;  Orange  Boven,.  brilliant  crimson-scarlet,  with  deep  orange 
lips";  Queen  of  Crimsons,  intense  crimson. 

The  following  eighteen  older  varieties  from  the  seed-bed  of  the 
same  raisers  are,  perhaps,  the  most  desirable  of  the  older  kinds,  and 
are  well  entitled  to  a  place  in  the  most  select  collection,  namely  : — 
Alice,  pure  white,  striped  with  rose ;  Artist,  purple,  mottled  with 
white  ;  Bridesmaid,  white,  striped  with  rosy  crimson  ;  Climax,  rose, 
striped  with  crimson ;  Carnation,  white,  striped  with  rosy  scarlet ; 
Firefly,  scarlet  and  white  ;  George  Gordon,  intense  glowing  crimson, 
smooth  and  perfect;  Grand  JJuJce,  bronze  and  crimson  striped; 
Gladiateur,  white,  striped  with  rosy  scarlet ;  Gazelle,  sulphury 
white,  striped  with  rose  ;  Harlequin,  French  white,  striped  with  rose  ; 
Leopard,  light  bronze  yellow,  striped  with  rosy  crimson  ;  Mathilde, 
rose,  striped  with  dark  purple ;  Miss  Ruth,  French  white,  striped 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND   GARDEN   GUIDE.  273 

with  bright  rose  ;  Mrs.  M'Bonald,  white,  veined  and  splashed  with 
rose  ;  Nonpareil,  white,  striped  with  rosy  crimson  ;  Striped  Unique, 
white,  striped  with  rosy  crimson  ;  Pretty  Polly,  white,  marbled 
with  pure  yellow ;  The  Bride,  orange,  striped  with  red ;  Yellow 
■Gem,  bright  yellow. 

The  following  collection  of  dwarf-growing  varieties,  sent  out 
last  year  by  Messrs.  Henderson,  are  very  desirable.  The  names 
and  colours  are  as  follows : — Brunei,  French  white,  flaked  lilac  ; 
Coronation,  white,  yellow,  and  rose  ;  Crown  Jewel,  crimson,  scarlet, 
yellow ;  Elegantissima,  pure  white,  with  creamy  centre  ;  EJfrida, 
white  and  canary  yellow ;  Fire  King,  scarlet,  white  and  yellow  ; 
Gertrude,  rose,  buff,  and  yellow;  Golden  Drop,  yellow,  lemon,  and 
rosy  scarlet ;  Josephine,  lilac,  yellow,  and  purple  ;  Mirabile,  white  and 
rose  ;  Ne  plus  ultra,  golden  yellow ;  Queen  of  Beauties,  scarlet, 
purple,  and  orange. 

The  cultivation  of  Antirrhinums  and  Pentstemons  differs  so  very 
little  that  one  set  of  directions  will  do  for  both.  The  former  are 
the  hardiest,  and  reproduce  themselves  more  faithfully  from  seed, 
and  that  mode  of  raising  a  stock  can  be  heartily  recommended  to 
those  who  have  an  opportunity  of  procuring  seed  from  a  first-rate 
collection.  In  very  severe  winters  Antirrhinums  grown  in  un- 
favourable situations  will  probably  suffer,  but  the  remarks  upon 
wintering  a  stock  in  frames  must  be  supposed  to  apply  wholly  to 
the  Pentstemons,  glass  being  in  small  gardens  too  valuable  to  admit 
of  its  being  devoted  to  the  protection  of  Antirrhinums. 

In  propagating  a  stock,  those  who  prefer  raising  seedliugs  must 
commence  at  once,  for  the  seed  should  be  sown  early  in  autumn,  and 
then  good  strong  plants  can  be  had  for  blooming  early  the  following 
■summer.  Seed  sown  as  late  as  the  middle  of  September  in  pans, 
•and  placed  in  a  cold  frame,  or  under  a  hand-glass,  will  produce  good 
plants  if  pricked  oft'  into  a  bed  in  a  rather  dry  and  sheltered  corner, 
and  then  planted  out  into  their  permanent  quarters  early  in  the 
spring.  Sow  in  pans  filled  with  light  sandy  soil,  and  place  under 
shelter  until  the  plants  are  nicely  up,  when  they  can  be  taken  out  of 
doors,  and  a  few  days  afterwards  pricked  out  about  three  inches 
apart,  in  a  bed  which  has  been  prepared  by  deep  digging,  and  if  the 
soil  is  heavy,  by  mixing  some  light  sandy  stuff  to  enable  them  to 
root  quickly.  Toward  the  end  of  the  following  February,  or  any 
time  in  March,  plant  out  in  a  bed  of  good  soil,  or  in  clumps  of  two 
or  three  together,  along  the  second  row  of  the  herbaceous  border. 
The  plants  should  be  not  less  than  a  foot  apart,  whether  in  beds  or 
clumps,  so  as  to  give  them  sufficient  room  to  develop  themselves, 
but  a  space  of  eighteen  inches  will  be  preferable. 

The  cuttings  can  be  struck  during  this  and  next  month,  or  early  in 
the  spring  ;  but  the  present  season  is  preferable,  because  they  can  be 
struck  without  the  assistance  of  artificial  heat,  and  the  plants  come 
into  bloom  much  earlier  in  the  season.  When  the  cuttings  are 
struck,  they  can  be  kept  in  a  cold  frame  through  the  winter,  or 
treated  exactly  the  same  as  the  seedlings.  As  the  young  plants  are 
rather  tender,  and  consequently  susceptible  to  injurious  influences, 
damp  being  one  of  their  greatest  enemies,  it  ds  well  to  give  them 

vol.  vi. — so.  IX.  18 


274  THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND   GARDEN   GUIDE. 

every  opportunity  of  resisting  it,  by  selecting  a  dry  sheltered  position 
for  the  transplanting  bed.  A  dressing  of  leaf-mould  should  be 
applied  in  addition  to  the  sandy  stuff  mentioned  "when  speaking  of 
the  seedlings. 

The  varieties  mentioned  above  will  make  a  glorious  bed,  if  mixed 
with  due  regard  to  their  various  heights  and  colours,  and  the  effect 
produced  will  be  quite  equal  to  that  capable  of  being  produced  by 
any  other  class  of  plants.  The  beds  should  be  prepared  by  trench- 
ing them  deeply,  and  working  in  at  the  same  time  a  liberal  dressing 
of  thoroughly-decayed  manure  and  leaf-mould.  Where  the  plants 
are  to  be  turned  out  singly,  or  in  clumps  of  three  together,  in  the 
mixed  borders,  the  ground  should  be  dug  up  deeply  where  they  are 
to  be  planted,  and  a  few  spits  of  manure  added.  Few  plants  will 
pay  much  better  for  liberal  treatment  than  those  we  have  under 
consideration.  The  superiority  of  the  spikes  and  individual  flowers, 
when  the  plants  have  a  little  attention,  over  those  produced  by  others 
planted  without  the  soil  undergoing  any  preparation,  will  be  so 
apparent  as  to  repay  the  little  time  and  labour  expended  more  than 
a  hundredfold.  The  flower-spikes  should  be  removed  immediately 
the  beauty  of  the  flowers  is  over,  unless  it  is  intended  to  save  seed, 
and  those  which  flower  early  will  throw  up  flower-spikes  a  second 
time.  In  an  extra  sharp  winter  it  is  advisable  to  cover  the  old 
stools  with  coal-ashes,  but  it  should  be  removed  before  the  plants 
start  into  growth. 

The  plants  raised  from  cuttings  struck  in  autumn  may  be  put  in 
three-inch  pots,  and  wintered  in  a  frame  with  just  sufficient  protec- 
tion to  prevent  the  frost  doing  them  any  harm.  Planted  out  as  early 
in  February  as  the  state  of  the  weather  and  condition  of  the  soil  will 
permit,  they  will  soon  become  established,  and  produce  an  abundance 
of  bloom  throughout  the  summer,  if  the  old  flower-spikes  are 
removed  when  it  becomes  necessary. 


FLOWEKING   PLANTS   FOE  TABLE  DECOEATIOK 

BY   J.    W.    SILVEE, 
Head  Gardener,  The  Laurels,  Taunton. 

|jN  The  Florae  World  for  June  a  list  of  plants  with 
ornamental  foliage,  adapted  for  dinner-table  decoration, 
was  given,  and  a  promise  made  that  a  list  of  flowering 
plants,  suitable  for  the  same  purpose,  should  follow. 
It  would,  perhaps,  have  been  more  satisfactory  if  the 
list  had  been  given  in  the  issue  for  the  following  month,  but  the 
demands  upon  our  time  during  the  exhibition  season  are  so  great 
and  every  moment  is  so  occupied,  that  very  little  time  is  spared  for 
writing.     We  will  commence  with 

STOYE   PLANTS. 

Anthueitjms. — One  of  the  most  useful  and  effective  flowering 


THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND   GARDEN   GUIDE.  275 

plants  adapted  for  the  embellishment  of  the  dinner-table  is  the  well- 
known  Anthurium  Scherzerianum.  It  is  certainly  the  most  useful 
of  its  class,  on  account  of  the  brilliancy  of  its  vermilion  red  spathes, 
and  also  for  the  length  of  time  they  remain  in  good  condition.  It 
succeeds  well  in  a  compost  consisting  of  equal  parts  fibrous  peat 
and  sphagnum  moss,  to  which  may  be  added  a  liberal  proportion  of 
broken  crocks,  charcoal,  and  silver-sand.  The  pots  in  which  the 
plants  are  put  should  be  perfectly  clean  and  well  drained,  and  in 
potting  it  is  desirable  to  place  on  the  top  of  the  crocks  a  layer  of 
the  roughest  of  the  compost,  sufficiently  thick  to  bring  the  ball  of 
the  plant  level  with  the  rim  of  the  pot.  When  this  is  done  spread 
out  the  roots  of  the  plant  carefully,  and  then  pack  the  remaining 
compost  about  them.  Tbe  soil  should  be  built  up  in  a  convex  form, 
so  as  to  elevate  the  base  of  the  plant  about  three  inches  above  the 
rim  of  the  pot.  Covering  the  surface  with  growing  sphagnum, 
gives  the  whole  a  fresh  and  pleasing  appearance,  and  materially 
assists  in  retaining  a  certain  degree  of  moisture  about  the  foliage. 

Etjcharis. — The  lovely  JE.  Amazonica,  when  well  grown  and 
flowered,  is  very  effective.  A  stove  temperature  is  required  through- 
out the  winter,  but  during  the  summer  months  the  temperature  of  a 
close  greenhouse  will  be  sufficient.  To  over-estimate  its  value  is  diffi- 
cult, for  it  may  be  had  in  flower  three  or  four  times  throughout  the 
year.  The  most  desirable  way  of  growing  specimens  for  the  table  is  to 
place  three  bulbs  in  a  six-inch  pot,  and  keep  them  in  a  shady  part 
of  the  house  until  rooted  into  the  soil.  When  well  established, 
lessen  the  supply  of  water,  and  expose  them  to  the  light,  but  it  is 
not  necessary  during  the  season  of  rest  to  withhold  water  altogether. 
At  the  same  time,  it  will,  perhaps,  be  well  to  say  that  only  enough  is 
required  to  keep  the  foliage  from  flagging.  In  about  four  or  five  weeks 
increase  the  supply  of  water,  and  the  flower-spikes  will  soon  make 
their  appearance,  and,  by  judiciously  acting  upon  the  advice  here 
given,  a  constant  supply  of  flower  may  be  secured  throughout  the 
whole  season.  Frequent  shifts  are  not  necessary,  but  when  in 
active  growth  a  little  weak  manure-water  may  be  advantageously 
given.  Use  a  compost  of  two-thirds  silky  loam,  and^one-third  well- 
decayed  cow-manure,  with  a  moderate  addition  of  silver-sand,  and 
let  the  pots  be  well  drained. 

Thyrsacanthus. — The  graceful  growing  T.  rutilans  is  charming 
as  a  table  plant  when  grown  properly.  Young  plants  in  five-inch 
pots  are  preferable,  and  cuttings  struck  in  the  early  part  of  the 
spring,  and  grown  on  vigorously,  will  make  beautiful  little  specimens 
by  the  autumn.  The  terminal  point  should  be  pinched  out  of  the 
main  shoot  when  only  a  few  inches  high,  to  induce  them  to  break 
and  form  bushy  specimens.  It  is  also  important  to  keep  the  plants 
near  the  glass  to  prevent  their  becoming  drawn  up  weakly.  The 
most  suitable  compost  is  prepared  by  well  incorporating  together 
one-third  each  of  good  turfy  loam,  fibry  peat,  and  leaf-mould,  and 
then  adding  a  liberal  proportion  of  silver  sand. 

Gesnera. — Zebrina,  Refulgens,  and  Exoniensis  are  the  best 
varieties  for  the  dinner-table,  as  the  foliage  is  very  beautiful,  as  well 
as  the  flowers  being  showy  and  attractive.     The  successful  culture 


276  THE  FLORAL   WORLD   AND   GARDEN  GUIDE. 

materially  depends  upon  obtaining  a  full  development  of  growth 
previous  to  the  period  they  should  be  in  bloom.  This  can  be  most 
effectually  secured  by  giving  tbe  assistance  of  a  genial  bottom-heat 
during  the  growing  period.  When  the  growth  is  matured,  the 
plants  coming  into  bloom  may  be  moved  to  a  drier  atmosphere  in 
the  stove,  and  they  can  then  be  used  for  the  decoration  of  the  dinner 
table,  as  required.  As  a  rule,  a  stunted  growth  and  poor  spikes  of 
bloom  may  be  attributable  to  the  want  of  a  brisk  temperature,  com- 
bined with  a  moist  atmosphere,  and  a  free  exposure  to  light  during 
the  spring  and  early  summer  months.  Put  from  six  to  eight  tubers 
in  a  five-inch  pot,  and  handsome  specimens  will  be  produced  with 
very  little  trouble.  Almost  any  light  rich  soil  will  suit  them,  but 
one-third  each  of  loam,  peat,  and  leaf-mould,  and  a  mixture  of  plenty 
of  silver  sand  will  suit  them  best. 

Jtjsticia. — When  well  bloomed,  and  the  foliage  well  developed, 
J.  carnea  is  exceedingly  useful  for  table  decoration.  Young  plants 
are  preferable,  and  the  same  treatment  as  advised  for  the  Thyrsa- 
canthus  will  grow  the  Justicia  well.  Great  attention  must  be  paid 
to  the  plants  when  in  vigorous  growth,  as  it  is  most  important  to 
have  them  as  dwarf  and  compact  as  possible. 

The  above  selection  does  not  by  any  means  exhaust  the  list  of 
plants  suitable  for  the  dinner-table,  but  it  will  be  quite  sufficient  for 
medium-sized  establishments. 

GREENHOUSE   PLANTS. 

I  will  now  proceed  to  mention  a  few  subjects  which  may  be 
cultivated  in  a  greenhouse. 

Chinese  Primrose. — The  most  effective  are  the  red  and  white 
single  varieties.  The  striped  varieties,  and  those  having  flowers  of 
an  intermediate  shade,  are  not  so  effective.  To  insure  a  stock  of 
large-sized  plants,  sow  the  seed  in  the  beginning  of  May,  and  grow 
steadily  on  throughout  the  summer.  Pot  them  in  a  moderately 
light  and  rather  rich  compost,  and  keep  them  near  the  glass. 

Fuchsias. — These,  trained  as  pyramids,  from  one  foot  to  eighteen 
inches  high,  produce  a  very  pleasing  effect.  It  is  important  to 
select  suitable  varieties,  and  for  the  table  I  consider  the  following 
to  be  the  best  six  : — Wave  of  Life,  Avalanche,  Marvellous,  Enchan- 
tress, Souvenir  de  CMswick,  and  Rose  of  Castile. 

Saltia. — The  brilliant-flowered  S.  splendens  may  also  be  men- 
tioned as  being  exceedingly  bright  and  telling,  as  it  blooms  when 
flowers  are  generally  scarce.  Cuttings  struck  early  in  the  spring, 
and  then  grown  on  freely  in  a  warm  greenhouse,  and  near  the 
glass,  will  produce  fine  medium-sized  specimens  by  the  autumn. 

Cyclamen. — The  varieties  of  C.  persicum  are  certainly  unsur- 
passed amongst  greenhouse  flowering  plants.  Specimens  with  an 
abundance  of  flower  should  be  used.  Those  with  deep  red  and 
white,  with  red  base,  are  the  most  effective.  Their  cultivation  has 
been  so  fully  described  in  past  issues  of  the  Floral  World,  that 
it  is  not  necessary  for  me  to  do  more  than  direct  attention  to  their 
adaptability  for  the  decoration  of  the  dinner-table. 


THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND   GARDEN    GUIDE. 


277 


SUPPLEMENTAEY    NOTE     ON    FINE    FOLIAGE    PLANTS. 

Mauantas. — In  the  paper  on  ornamental-leaved  plants,  the 
mention  of  this  beautiful  genus  was  accidentally  omitted,  and  I  now 
propose  to  supply  the  deficiency.  Marantas  can  be  grown  to  any 
desired  size  without  difficulty,  but  the  specimens  grown  in  five  or 
six  inch  pots  will  be  the  most  useful.  They  are  all  very  readily 
propagated  by  division  just  as  they  are  beginning  to  make  new 
growth.  To  do  this  without  materially  injuring  the  plants,  turn 
them  out  of  the  pots  carefully,  loosen  and  separate  the  roots  with 
the  hand,  and  then  divide  the  crowns  with  a  sharp  knife.  Trim  the 
roots  a  little  if  they  require  trimming,  and  put  each  portion  into  o 
five  or  six  inch  pot,  and  if  convenient,  partly  plunge  the  pots  in  a 


MAKANTA    ZEBRINA. 


genial  bottom-heat,  and  where  the  plants  will  enjoy  the  assistance 
of  a  moderately  moist  atmosphere.  A  light  open  compost,  consisting 
of  equal  parts  turfy  loam,  fibry  peat,  and  leaf-mould,  and  a  sixth 
part  of  silver-sand,  will  grow  them  to  perfection.  They  should 
also  be  grown  in  a  shady  part  of  the  stove,  as  the  foliage  when 
exposed  to  the  sun  during  the  summer  loses  that  fresh  velvety 
appearance  for  which  it  is  remarkable.  M.  zebrina  and  M. 
Warseewicr.i  are  the  two  most  useful  for  the  table,  because  of  their 
graceful  habit  of  growth,  which  is  so  well  shown  in  the  accom- 
panying illustration.  If.  rosea-picta,  M.  Veitchi,  M.  fasciata,  M. 
imperialism  and  several  others,  may  be  employed  for  the  same  pur- 
pose, but  the  two  first-named  are  the  best,  and  they  are  moreover 
cheap,  and  within  the  reach  of  all  who  have  a  stove  in  which  to 
cultivate  them.  s- g  - --;'PhL) 


178  THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

NEW  NOTES  ON  PEOPAGATING  BEDDING  PLANTS. 

BY   JOHN   WA.LSBT. 

jlEOPA  GATING  a  stock  of  bedding  plants  is  not  so  great 
a  labour  as  many  amateurs  imagine,  yet  it  is  sufficiently 
difficult  to  make  a  heavy  tax  on  the  time  and  attention 
of  those  who  have  not  much  practical  knowledge  of  the 
matter.  Eor  the  assistance  of  this  class  of  flower 
gardeners  I  purpose  giving  a  few  practical  directions  upon  propagat- 
ing the  various  classes  of  bedding  plants  now  in  the  greatest  request, 
and  as  they  will  be  couched  in  the  plainest  terms  possible,  they  can- 
not fail  to  be  useful. 

Geraniums. — These  are  well  entitled  to  have  precedence  over  all 
other  classes  of  bedders ;  for  in  dry  seasons  nothing  can  equal  them, 
and  they  thrive  and  flower  abundantly  in  the  poorest  soils.  The 
object  of  these  remarks  is  not  to  advocate  the  claims  of  bedding 
geraniums,  but  to  show  the  way  to  propagate  a  stock  with  the  least 
possible  trouble.  It  is  utterly  unnecessary  to  put  cuttings  of  any 
of  the  varieties  in  frames  or  under  glass  of  any  kind.  Indeed  it  is 
objectionable,  because  they  do  not  strike  so  freely  as  when  inserted 
in  the  open  border.  The  first  steps  it  will  be  necessary  to  take  will 
be  to  select  a  south  border  or  an  open  quarter,  and  break  up  the 
ground  and  mark  it  out  in  three  feet  beds.  When  this  is  done,  make 
the  surface  smooth  and  firm  with  the  spade.  The  object  of  dividing 
the  border  into  beds  is  simply  to  enable  us  to  go  between  the  bed3 
to  remove  the  dead  leaves  when  required,  and  give  the  cuttings  any 
other  little  attention  that  may  be  necessary.  If  the  soil  is  heavy,  it 
is  as  well  to  mix  a  little  river  sand  or  other  gritty  substance  with  the 
surface  soil.  In  ordinary  loams  this  is  not  required.  The  beds 
being  ready,  the  cuttings  are  inserted  and  made  firm  ;  and  after  they 
are  all  put  in,  they  have  one  good  watering  to  settle  everything  in 
its  place,  which  is  all  the  assistance  the}r  will  receive  from  the 
watering-pot  until  they  are  taken  up  and  potted.  The  cuttings  are 
put  in  about  an  inch  apart  in  the  rows,  and  the  rows  are  about  four 
inches  from  each  other. 

In  turning  our  attention  to  the  preparation  of  the  cuttings,  it  is 
necessary  to  say  the  cuttings  should  be  taken  from  the  beds  in  such 
a  manner  as  not  to  spoil  their  appearance.  At  this  time  of  the  year, 
the  cuttings  must  be  cut  rather  long,  so  as  to  have  a  portion  of  rather 
firm  wood  towards  the  bottom.  When  the  portion  inserted  in  the 
soil  is  too  soft  and  sappy,  it  soon  rots,  and  the  cuttings  are  conse- 
quently lost.  All  the  leaves  with  the  exception  of  two  or  three  at 
the  top  should  be  removed,  for  many  years'  experience  proves  that 
they  root  quicker  than  when  they  are  burdened  with  too  much  foliage. 
The  leaves  soon  die  off,  and  injure  the  other  leaves,  and  in  wet 
weather  very  often  rot  the  growing  point  of  the  cutting  itself,  if  not 
removed. 

As  a  rule  it  is  desirable  to  take  cuttings  up  directly  they  have 
roots  half  an  inch  long.     They  recover  from  the  shift  quicker,  and  do 


THE   FLORAL    WOULD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  279 

not  feel  it  so  much  when  moved  at  this  stage,  or  when  just  callused, 
as  they  do  when  left  to  become  thoroughly  rooted  aud  grow  wild 
before  being  taken  up.  Thousands  of  geraniums  are  wintered  in 
boxes  and  pans,  but,  to  tell  the  truth,  I  must  say  that  I  never  liked 
it  so  well  as  keeping  them  in  pots,  for  the  reason  that  those  round 
the  side  grow  away  strong,  and  half  smother  those  in  the  centre, 
many  of  which  towards  the  spring  are  of  very  little  use,  whilst  the 
others  have  every  opportunity  of  growing  too  rank,  through  having 
too  large  a  feeding  ground.  A  plan  found  to  answer  well,  is  to  pnt 
three  plants  in  three-inch  pots,  keep  them  there  until  February,  and 
then  pot  off  singly.  There  is  not  much  fear  of  one  smothering  the 
other;  and  quite  as  many  plants  can  be  stowed  away  in  a  given  space 
when  potted  this  way  as  when  they  are  put  in  boxes  or  pans. 

When  they  are  potted  off,  stand  the  pots  out  of  doors  on  a  hard 
bottom  until  the  appearance  of  frost  renders  it  dangerous  for  the 
plants  to  remain  without  protection.  Where  the  plants  are  to  re- 
main in  pits  and  frames  through  the  winter,  whether  heated  or  not, 
if  the  structures  are  ready  for  their  reception,  it  is  as  well  to  place 
them  in  their  proper  places  at  once,  and  take  the  lights  entirely  away 
until  the  coldness  of  the  weather  renders  it  necessary  to  put  them 
on  again.  This  saves  the  trouble  of  a  second  shift.  All  the  gera- 
niums should  have  no  more  water  through  the  winter  than  is  neces- 
sary to  keep  them  alive,  unless  it  is  thought  desirable  to  place  them 
in  heat  for  propagating.  In  that  case,  they  will  require  the  applica- 
tion of  that  element  in  proportion  to  the  heat  of  the  house  in  which 
they  are. 

The  above  remarks  apply  with  equal  force  to  the  section  with 
variegated  leaves,  and  it  is  more  important  to  strike  these  out  of 
doors  than  the  green  leaves,  for  they  are  more  difficult  to  strike  in 
pots  than  the  last-mentioned.  The  variegates  should  be  kept  on  the 
greenhouse  shelves  through  the  winter,  for  damp  so  soon  catches 
them  ;  the  green-leaved  kinds  will  do  very  well  in  a  dry  pit,  if  it  has 
the  advantage  of  sufficient  piping  to  dry  up  the  damp  and  keep  out 
frost.  It  is,  however,  much  the  best  to  keep  them  all  as  quiet  as 
possible  through  the  winter,  and  then,  when  the  young  plants  are 
potted  off  in  the  spring,  they  start  away  vigorously,  and  make  grand 
plants  for  turning  out  when  the  proper  time  comes  for  their  being 
transferred  to  their  summer  quarters. 

Calceolarias. — Though  these  valuable  bedders  suffer  very 
severely  in  dry  seasons,  we  must  not  discard  them.  They  will  no 
doubt  regain  a  considerable  share  of  their  popularity  this  season,  as 
the  past  summer  has  been  so  favourable  to  them.  It  is  too  early  to 
begin  propagating  these  yet ;  and  they  ought  to  be  left;  until  the  end 
of  the  present  month.  Prom  the  end  of  the  month  until  the  middle 
of  the  next,  a  better  time  could  not  possibly  be  had.  The  wood  is 
in  a  much  better  condition  for  emitting  roots  about  that  period  than 
earlier  in  the  season.  Take  the  cutting  with  three  joints,  cut  it 
close  under  the  bottom  one,  from  which  the  pair  of  leaves  are 
removed,  and  cut  the  top  leaves,  if  large,  about  half  off.  This 
enables  the  foliage  to  stand  up  stiff,  instead  of  falling  about,  as  is 
the  case  when  the  foliage  is  left  its  whole  length.     Calceolarias  are 


280  THE  FLORAL   WORLD   AND   GARDEN   GUIDE. 

much  better  when  grown  in  the  cold  frame  through  the  winter  than 
they  are  in  heated  structures.  They  make  better  plants,  and  are 
ready  for  turning  out  earlier  in  the  season,  and  are  consequently 
better  able  to  become  established  before  the  dry  hot  weather  sets  in. 
We  never  take  much  trouble  with  them,  but  make  up  a  bed  of  soil 
about  six  inches  in  depth  in  a  frame  or  turf-pit,  and  mix  a  little 
thoroughly-decomposed  dung  with  the  loam,  and  sprinkle  sand 
over  the  surface,  and  give  it  a  good  watering.  The  cuttings  are  put 
in  about  an  inch  apart  every  way,  and  after  another  watering  the 
operation  is  completed.  The  lights  are  put  on  and  a  mat  thrown 
over  them  in  bright  weather.  They  will  require  very  little  water 
besides  a  sprinkle  with  the  syringe  to  keep  the  foliage  fresh  when 
they  are  first  put  in.  So  soon  as  the  cuttings  can  bear  air,  give  a 
little  at  first,  and  afterwards  as  much  as  the  weather  will  allow,  for 
by  this  time  we  shall  be  in  the  midst  of  winter.  In  the  spring, 
they  can  either  be  potted  up  into  three-inch  pots,  or,  what  is  better, 
planted  out  in  a  bed  of  good  soil  in  a  cold  frame ;  or,  failing  that,  a 
temporary  one  may  be  erected  with  a  few  boards  for  the  sides,  and 
strips  of  wood  across  to  keep  the  mats,  with  which  the  frame  will 
require  to  be  covered,  from  falling  on  and  breaking  the  plants. 
Plants  ti'eated  this  way  will  come  up  with  good  balls  of  soil  and 
take  root  in  the  fresh  soil  much  better  than  those  kept  in  pots  ; 
such,  at  least,  has  been  my  experience  with  them. 

Violas. — A  fresh  stock  of  these  should  be  propagated  every 
year,  for  the  plants  become  weedy  if  left  in  the  beds  the  second 
season.  They  must  not  be  coddled,  and  the  best  way  of  dealing  with 
them  is  to  put  in  the  cuttings  during  the  first  or  second  week  in  the 
present  month,  in  a  cold  frame,  in  boxes.  Then  early  in  the  spring 
plant  them  out  as  suggested  for  the  calceolarias,  and  plant  out  early. 
The  frame  must  not  be  kept  shut  up  during  the  winter,  excepting  in 
very  damp  or  frosty  weather,  or  mildew  will  be  developed  and  a 
large  proportion  of  the  stock  will  perish.  Flowers  of  sulphur  dusted 
over  the  foliage  will  be  the  best  means  of  checking  mildew  after  it 
makes  its  appearance. 

Miscellaneous  Beddees. — Under  this  heading  will  be  included 
the  whole  of  the  other  remaining  subjects  which  require  attention 
at  this  season,  such  as  Verbenas,  Heliotropes,  Variegated  Alyssum, 
Petunias,  dwarf  Lobelias,  and  other  plants  of  a  similar  character. 
The  general  way  is  to  strike  this  class  in  the  autumn,  in  a  cold 
frame,  and  frequently  with  very  good  results,  but  I  have  long 
been  convinced  that  it  is  by  no  means  the  best.  Nothing  equals  a 
mild  hotbed  for  placing  the  cuttings  on  after  they  are  inserted  in 
the  cutting-pot.  "When  there  is  plenty  of  time,  room,  and  cuttings, 
this  is  not  of  much  importance ;  but  where  there  are  no  more  of 
these  things  than  is  just  sufficient,  a  mild  hotbed  will  repay  itself 
twentyfold  in  a  much  larger  proportion  of  rooted  cuttings  than 
would  be  the  case  were  they  placed  in  a  cold  frame.  The  cuttings 
should  be  removed  to  colder  quarters  directly  they  are  rooted,  for  it 
is  impossible  to  keep  them  too  stocky.  The  pots  require  filling 
with  light  sandy  soil,  a  layer  of  sand  on  the  top,  and  a  good  drainage 
at  the  bottom.     Five  or  six  inch  pots  or  shallow  pans  are  the  best 


THE  FLORAL   WORLD   AND   GARDEN   GUIDE.  281 

size  to  use.  Watering  and  shading  must  of  necessity  be  attended 
to,  but  guard  against  overdoing  either.  Plants  of  the  above- 
mentioned  subjects  are  best  kept  in  a  cool,  dry,  airy  house  through 
the  winter,  with  just  sufficient  heat  to  keep  out  the  frost  and  dry  up 
all  superfluous  moisture  in  damp  weather.  Dust  the  foliage  with 
sulphur  immediately  mildew  makes  its  appearance,  and  fumigate 
with  tobacco  paper  if  greenfly  or  thrips  show  any  signs  of  infesting 
the  plants.  Lobelia  speciosa  can  be  raised  pretty  true  from  seed, 
and  with  careful  selection  the  plants  will  come  so  true  that  it  woi-ild 
require  a  sharp  eye  to  know  whether  they  had  been  raised  from  seed 
or  cuttings.  To  save  seed,  pick  out  about  half  a  dozen  plants  that 
combine  all  the  qualities  of  a  good  Lobelia,  and  the  produce  is  always 
good.  The  varieties  of  Speciosa  and  also  of  Pumila  must  be  raised 
from  cuttings.  If  cuttings  are  scarce,  cut  a  few  plants  down  ;  they 
will  soon  commence  to  make  new  growth  and  furnish  an  abundance 
of  cuttings.  To  avoid  interfering  with  the  arrangements  in  the 
flower  garden,  a  few  plants  of  each  kind  should  be  planted  in  a  shady 
corner,  and  then  there  will  be  no  difficulty  in  the  matter.  A  close 
observance  of  the  few  rules  here  laid  down,  in  combination  with  an 
ordinary  amount  of  common  sense,  will  not  fail  to  produce  the  most 
satisfactory  result,  and  it  will  be  entirely  the  cultivator's  own  fault  if 
he  fails  to  realize  his  highest  anticipations. 


HORTICULTURAL  NOTES. 


|g"'gS'nS?^MHE  intense  heat  with  which  the  early  part  of  the  August 
Si&  Rifl  was  characterized  has  had  a  most  beneficial  effect  upon 
js|ta  W&jk  the  crops  of  the  farm  and  the  garden  with  but  few 
BilJIsyl  exceptions,  and  lias  been  most  favourable  to  the  in- 
mm     gathering  of  the  harvest. 

At  page  184,  after  a  wide  range  of  observation,  extending  over 
almost  all  parts  of  the  country,  I  expressed  an  opinion  to  the  effect 
that  there  would  be  fair  crops  of  almost  all  kinds  of  fruit,  and  I  am 
glad  to  find  that  my  anticipations  have  been  fully  realized.  Some 
crops  in  certain  districts  have  failed  altogether,  and  the  same  crops 
in  others  have  been  altogether  as  good. 

Since  my  last  notes  no  exhibitions  of  importance  have  been  held 
in  the  metropolis,  excepting  the  supplementary  Rose  Show,  which 
was  in  every  way  a  grand  success.  Several  important  exhibitions 
have  been  held  in  the  provinces,  notably  those  at  Glastonbury  and 
Taunton,  two  important  districts  in  the  west  of  England,  and  it  is 
impossible  to  give  an  adequate  idea  of  the  enthusiasm  which  per- 
vaded all  classes  in  the  districts  on  the  show-days  ;  and  the  display 
of  horticultural  produce  was  grand  in  the  extreme.  Particulars  of 
either  of  these  exhibitions  would  be  out  of  place  here,  but  it  may  be 
said  with  justice  that  each  and  all  of  the  exhibitors  acquitted  them- 
selves well.  In  the  list  of  prize-takers  the  name  of  a  respected  and 
valuable  contributor  to  the  Floral  World,  Mr.  J.  "W.  Silver,  head 
gardener  to  J.  B.  Saunders,  Esq.,  of  Taunton,  was  conspicuous  by 
reason  of  its  appearing  against  the  first  prize  in  so  many  classes 


282  THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

Perhaps  some  day  or  other  Mr.  Silver  will  tell  us  how  he  managed 
to  bring  to  such  marvellous  perfection  the  exotic  ferns  in  the  great 
open  class  for  ten.  The  specimen  of  Adiantum  Farley  ense,  exhibited 
by  Mr.  Silver  in  the  first  prize  group  of  six  fine  foliage  plants,  was 
one  of  the  best  ever  seen,  and  the  finest  specimen  fern  in  the 
exhibition. 

The  display  of  roses  at  the  Crystal  Palace  on  the  occasion  of  the 
supplementary  exhibition  was  not  quite  so  extensive  as  on  the  occa- 
sion of  the  great  rose  show  in  June;  but  the  blooms  were,  on  the 
whole,  much  finer,  and  presented  a  much  fresher  appearance.  The 
leading  trade  and  amateur  growers  put  in  an  appearance,  but  it  is 
unnecessary  here  to  particularize  the  exhibitors  or  give  the  names 
of  any  of  the  varieties  shown  excepting  of  those  in  the  stands  of 
sixty  single  trusses  exhibited  by  Messrs.  Paul  and  Son,  Cheshunt, 
and  Mr.  B.  B.  Cant,  Colchester,  who  were  first  and  second.  The  best 
blooms  in  the  first  prize  collection  were  those  of  Alfred  Colomb, 
Baroness  Bothschild,  Comtesse  d' Oxford,  Marquise  de  Castellane, 
Francoise  Trevye,  Mrs.  Charles  Wood,  Elie  Morel,  Paul  Neron,  a 
showy  rose,  but  two  coarse  for  exhibition,  Xavier  Olibo,  Perfection 
de  Lyon,  John  Hopper,  Captain  Lamare,  distinct  in  colour,  but  not 
first-rate  in  form  ;  Madlle.  Marie  Wood,  Madame  Caillat,  Mrs.  G. 
Paul,  Marechal  Vaillant,  Marie  Baumann,  Alice  Dareau,  Senateur 
Vaisse,  Celine  Forestier,  Antoine  Ducher,  Madlle.  Marie  Bady, 
Edward  Morren,  La  France,  L'Abbe  Griraudier,  Abel  Grand,  Madame 
Boutin,  Beine  du  Midi,  Souvenir  de  Mons.  Boll,  Beauty  of  Waltham, 
Charles  Bouillard,  Leopold  Hausberg,  Gloire  de  Vitry,  Gloire  de 
Santenay,  Wardy  Freres,  Maurice  Bernardin,  Sophie  Cocquerell, 
Leopold  I.,  Devoniensis,  Black  Prince,  Marechal  Kiel,  Pierre 
Notting,  Emile  Hausberg,  Due  de  Bohan,  La  Beine.  Madame  Victor 
Verdier,  Comte  de  Nanteuil,  Camille  Bernardin.  Madame  Laurent. 
In  the  collection  from  Mr.  Cant  occurred  exceptionally  fine  blooms 
of  Ferdinand  de  Lesseps,  Prince  de  Portia,  Senateur  Vaisse,  Maurice 
Bernardin,  Louis  van  Houtte,  Edward  Morren,  Camille  Bernardin, 
Pierre  Notting,  Mons.  Joineaux,  Exposition  de  Brie,  Duchesse  de 
Caylus,  Devienne  Larny,  Victor  Verdier,  Christine  Nilsson,  Maurice 
Bernardin,  Therese  Levet,  La  Ville  de  St.  Denis.  Comtesse  de 
Chabrilland,  Horace  Vernet,  and  Madame  Clemence  Joigneaux. 

Very  liberal  prizes  were  offered  for  dinner-table  decorations;  but 
they  were  far  below  what  they  should  have  been.  The  tables  were 
mostly  over-decorated,  and  with  but  few  exceptions,  the  exhibitors 
appeared  to  have  entirely  overlooked  the  simple  fact  of  space 
being  required  for  such  things  as  plates,  glasses,  etc.,  and  other 
accessories  of  the  dinner  table  ! 

The  exhibition  of  Zonal  Geraniums,  held  at  South  Kensington, 
August  2nd,  was  to  all  but  regular  Geranium  fanciers  a  very  tame 
affair,  no  prizes  being  offered  for  collections  of  established  kinds 
of  any  but  the  variegated  varieties.  The  most  noticeable  advance 
in  any  class  was  thai,  shown  in  the  class  for  Bronze  Zonals,  in  which 
Messrs.  Downie,  Laird,  and  Laing,  Stanstead  Park  Nursery,  Forest 
Hill,  were  first  with  Marshal  McMalton,  a  variety  which  is  perfectly 
distinct  from,  and  superior  to,  all  existing  varieties.     The  leaves  are 


THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND   GARDEN   GUIDE.  283 

large  and  leathery,  of  the  finest  possible  form,  and  the  zone,  which 
is  verv  broad,  and  laid  on  with  most  mathematical  precision,  is  of  the 
most  intense  chocolate  hue.  Except  for  a  regulation  which  ous;ht 
never  to  have  existed,  they  would  have  been  second  with  the  Bev. 
C.  P.  Peach,  a  very  fine  variety,  with  broad  chestnut- red  zone  on  a 
clear  golden-yellow  ground.  They  also  exhibited  a  collection  of 
seedling  varieties,  many  of  them  being  exceptionally  good,  and  spe- 
cimens taken  from  the  open  border  of  Imperatrice  Eugenie,  Black 
Douglas,  and  Reine  Victoria,  all  of  which  are  grand  bedders. 

In  the  class  for  the  best  Golden  Zonal,  Mr.  C.  Turner  was  first 
with  Miss  Morris,  a  magnificent  variety,  with  medium-sized  and 
most  richly-coloured  leaves,  the  zone  being  broad,  well  defined,  and 
of  the  most  brilliant  carmine  hue.  Messrs.  J.  Carter  and  Co.  were 
second  with  Prince  of  Wales,  which  still  remains  one  of  the  best  in 
cultivation  ;  and  Messrs.  Bell  and  Thorpe,  Stratford-on-Avon,  were 
third  with  Macbeth,  also  first-rate,  but  upon  this  occasion  not  pre- 
sented in  good  condition. 

Mr.  Turner  was  also  first  for  a  Silver  Zonal  with  Mrs.  Bausby,  a 
most  valuable  acquisition  to  its  class.  The  leaves  are  of  medium 
size,  and  the  zone,  which  is  broad  and  well-defined,  is  of  the  most 
lively  carmine  hue. 

Only  two  Silver  Variegated  varieties  were  staged,  and  the  first 
prize  was  awarded  to  Mr.  Pestridge,  Uxbridge,  for  Blushing  Bride,  a 
useful  free-grower,  with  white-tinted  flowers.  The  second  prize  was 
taken  by  Mr.  Turner,  with  Miss  Kingsbury,  an  old  variety,  now 
proved  to  be  one  of  the  best  of  its  class  for  bedding  purposes  in 
existence. 

W.  R.  Morris,  Esq.,  offered  two  prizes  for  the  best  sir  seedling 
Golden  Zonals,  and  one  for  the  best  single  specimen  selected  from 
the  competing  groups  of  six.  Both  first  prizes  were  carried  off  by 
Messrs.  Downie,  Laird,  and  Laing,  who,  it  is  worthy  of  remark,  have 
only  taken  this  section  in  hand  during  the  past  two  years. 

The  competition  in  the  classes  for  varieties  grown  for  their 
flowers  was  rather  spirited,  and  several  good  kinds  in  the  respective 
classes  were  staged.  For  the  best  Zonal  the  first  prize  was  taken  by 
Mr.  Mann,  Brentwood,  with  Triumph,  a  fine  variety  with  large 
flowers  of  fine  form  and  of  a  deep  scarlet  crimson  hue  ;  and  the 
second  by  Mr.  C.  Turner,  with  Madame  Jules  Elysse,  a  Continental 
variety  with  clear  salmon  flowers,  tinted  with  vermilion.  Mr. 
Turner  was  also  first  for  an  ivy-leaved  variety  with  Willsi ;  and 
Mr.  Macintosh,  Hammersmith,  occupied  the  second  place  with  large 
well-flowered  specimens  of  the  old  white-flowered  Ivy-leaf.  Messrs. 
Bell  and  Thorpe  were  first  for  the  best  Double  Zonal  with  Miss 
Evelyn,  a  grand  variety  with  pink  flowers  ;  and  for  Nosegays  they 
were  first  with  Charles  Dickens,  rosy  scarlet  tinted  with  purple, 
quite  distinct  in  colour,  and  valuable  both  for  bedding  and  pot 
culture.  The  second  prize  for  Doubles  was  carried  off  by  Messrs. 
J.  Carter  and  Co.  with  well-flowered  examples  of  Charles  Glym; 
and  the  second  prize  for  Nosegays  by  Mr.  H.  Cannell,  Woolwich, 
wit!,  Master  Christine,  the  best  of  a",  with  flowers  of  a  rosy  pink  hue. 

New  Picotees  were  shown  rather  extensively  by  Mr.  Norman, 


284  THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 

78,  Crescent  Eoad,  Plumstead,  and  Messrs.  "Wood  and  Ingram, 
Huntingdon.  The  former  was  granted  first-class  certificates  for 
3Irs.  Ingleton,  light-edged  red,  and  Ada  Ingleton,  light-edged  purple, 
and  Charles  Williams,  heavy-edged  red ;  and  the  last-mentioned 
firm  received  similar  awards  for  Delicata,  light-edged  purple,  and 
Miss  F.  Ingram,  heavy-edged  red. 

First-class  Certificates  were  conferred  upon  Dracaena  Fraseri,  a 
strong-growing  species,  with  large  bronzy  leaves  distinctly  margined 
with  bright  carmine,  exhibited  by  Mr.  Fraser,  Lea  Bridge  ;  and  upon 
Juniperus  chinensis  aurea,  a  very  beautiful  and  constant  variety  of 
this  well-known  conifer,  in  habit  exactly  resembling  the  normal  form , 
but  the  young  growth  is  tipped  with  deep  golden  yellow  ;  exhibited 
by  Mr.  M.  Young,  Godalming. 

The  Gladioli  show  at  Kensington,  although  not  very  extensive, 
was  remarkably  bright  and  attractive.  The  leading  trade  growers 
were  Messrs.  Kelway  and  Son,  of  Langport,  and  Mr.  Douglas, 
gardener  to  F.  Whitbourne,  Esq.,  Loxford  Hall,  Ilford.  The 
varieties  staged  by  Messrs.  Kelway  and  Son  in  the  open  class  for 
twenty-four  were — Benon,  Clarissa,  Lacepede,  B.  C.  Tucker,  Eobert 
Fortune,  Ophir,  Orphee,  Le  Gouve,  Virginie,  Phidias,  Luna,  Lord 
Bridport,  Yeletes,  Adolphe,  Brongniart,  Yellow  King,  Madame  Vil- 
morin,  Curipede,  Eival,  Archelaus,  Aristophanes,  Lady  Bridport, 
Astrea,  and  Araxineus.  The  following  new  varieties  were  shown  and 
awarded  first-class  certificates.  By  Messrs.  Kelway  and  Son,  Lord 
Bridport,  blush  tinted  pink,  lower  petals  lightly  blotched  with 
maroon-crimson  ;  Hogarth,  blush  feathered  with  purple ;  Pictum, 
pink  painted  with  vermilion  ;  and  Julian,  blush  feathered  with  deep 
purple ;  Archelaus,  white,  lightly  feathered  and  tinted  at  the  edge 
with  pink;  Yelloio  King,  creamy-yellow,  ground  striped  with  car- 
mine edge  ;  Astrea,  deep  glowing  scarlet,  with  small  violet  feathers ; 
Araxineus,  vermilion,  throat  lightly  feathered  with  purplish  rose; 
Phidias,  deep  glowing  purplish  rose  tinted  with  violet ;  wonderfully 
rich  and  telling;  Lady  Bridport,  blush-pink,  small  feather  of  deep 
crimson ;  this  was  not  awarded  a  certificate,  but  it  was  one  of  the 
very  finest  of  the  seedlings.  By  Mr.  Douglas,  Mrs.  Francis  Whit- 
bourne, blush,  feathered  with  violet-crimson,  and  striped  at  the  edges 
with  reddish  carmine;  Talisman,  purplish  crimson,  with  light  rose 
centre  ;  William  Farley,  creamy-yellow  ground,  striped  with  bright 
reddish  carmine. 

Hollyhocks  were  also  shown  well  at  the  Gladioli  exhibition, 
although  the  competition  in  none  of  the  classes  was  very  spirited. 
Several  good  stands  were  however  staged.  The  first  prize  for  six 
spikes  was  awarded  to  Mr.  W.  Chater,  Saffron  Walden,  with  superb 
examples  of  Fair  Helen,  Hercules,  Majestic,  Peri,  Fascination,  and 
Bullion.  Mr.  Chater  also  exhibited  fine  spikes  of  Othello,  Queen  of 
Yellows,  Cygnet,  Marmion,  and  Alexander.  Mr.  Chater  was  also  first 
with  a  stand  of  twenty-four  single  blooms,  comprising  well-finished 
examples  of  Nonpareil,  Walden  Primrose,  Majestic,  Splendidum, 
Alfred  Chater,  Constance,  William  Brand,  Mochana,  Monarch,  Joy, 
Conquest,  Eclipse,  Carus  Chater,  Invincible,  Prince  Alfred,  Levia- 
than, Bridesmaid,  Champion,  Competitor,  Incomparable,  and  Fred 


THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND   GARDEN    GUIDE.  285 

Chater.     Messrs.  Paul  and  Son  second.     Only  one  stand  of  blooms 
from  an  amateur  grower  was  contributed,  and  they  were  poor. 

The  principal  exhibitors  at  the  Metropolitan  shows  are  well 
nigh  worn  out  with  the  strain  upon  them,  occasioned  by  the  fre- 
quency with  which  the  shows  are  held  ;  and  a  short  time  since  they 
held  a  meeting  at  Anderton's  Hotel,  for  the  purpose  of  appointing  a 
committee  to  consult  with  the  leading  societies  in  reference  to  fixing 
the  exhibitions  for  next  year.  A  very  general  opinion  prevails 
amongst  exhibitors,  that  if  each  society  were  to  hold  one  good  exhibi- 
tion, it  would  be  better  for  every  one.  G.  G. 


THE  GARDEN  GUIDE  FOR  SEPTEMBER. 

Elower  Garden. — Plant  out  layers  and  pipings  of  Carnations, 
Pinks,  and  Picotees  as  soon  as  they  are  well  rooted.  Select  an  open 
situation,  and  dig  the  ground  up  deeply  before  planting.  Divide 
and  replant  Daisies  and  Polyanthuses  for  spring  bedding,  if  not 
already  done.  Look  after  Dahlias,  and  support  them  with  stakes  as 
it  becomes  necessary,  and  protect  from  earwigs  by  setting  traps. 
Pill  a  few  small  pots  with  moss,  and  turn  them  bottom  upwards 
upon  the  stakes  used  in  supporting  the  branches.  Seedling  her- 
baceous plants  ought  to  be  strong  by  this  time,  and  ready  for 
planting  out;  but  there  is  yet  time  for  sowing  seed,  if  still  undone. 
Transplant  evergreens,  and  propagate  either  by  cuttings  or  layers. 
With  the  aid  of  favourable  weather,  turf  laid  now  will  become  nicelv 
established  by  winter.  Pinish  the  propagation  of  the  stock  of 
bedding  plants  as  quickly  as  possible. 

Kitchen  Garden. — Thin  the  winter  crop  of  Turnips  to  the 
proper  distance  apart,  and  the  Spinach  slightly,  if  too  thick.  Hoe 
the  ground  between  the  rows  to  destroy  every  vestige  of  weed  before 
it  has  time  to  seed,  and  thus  render  it  unnecessary  to  tread  the 
ground  when  in  a  soft  state  from  the  autumn  rains.  Plant  out  a 
good  breadth  of  the  Green  Curled,  and  Broad-leaved  Batavian 
Endive,  and  Brown  Cos  and  Drumhead  Cabbage  Lettuce  for  the 
winter.  Tie  up  for  blanching  those  sufficiently  advanced.  Take 
up  and  store  Potatoes,  and  the  Onions  not  sufficiently  matured  for 
taking  up  last  month.  Make  an  elevated  bed  for  the  reception  of  a 
frame  to  receive  the  Cauliflower  plants  to  stand  over  the  winter. 
Hand-lights  and  ground  vineries  are  invaluable  adjuncts  to  the 
kitchen  garden  for  protecting  young  plants  of  various  crops,  and 
for  preserving  Lettuce,  Endive,  and  many  other  things  after  they 
have  reached  maturity.  Plant  out  the  main  crop  of  Cabbage  for 
spring  use  at  a  distance  of  two  feet  apart,  and  insert  a  strong  Cole- 
wort  plant  between  each  four,  to  draw  during  the  winter.  Sowr 
Chervil,  Corn  Salad,  and  Radishes  for  a  late  supply.  Earth  up 
Celery  and  Leeks,  selecting  a  dry  day  for  that  purpose. 

Pruit  Garden. — Expose  the  fruit  on  wall-trees  to  the  light  by 
removing  the  leaves  which  overshadow  it.     Early  Apples  and  Pears 


286  THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 

must  be  gathered  as  soon  as  the  stalk  parts  readily  from  the  tree, 
and  placed  in  the  fruit-rootn  until  fit  for  the  table  :  for,  when  allowed 
to  remain  on  the  trees  until  ready  for  consumption,  they  lose  their 
fine  brisk  flavour,  and  eat  flat.  Some  of  the  Pear-trees  will  have 
pushed  again ;  cut  the  shoots  recently  made  back  to  within  three 
leaves  of  their  base.  Pyramidal  and  cordon  trees  that  are  making 
a  strong  growth  require  root-pruning  ;  the  end  of  this  month,  or  as 
soon  as  the  crop  is  gathered,  is  the  best  time  for  performing  that 
operation.  When  doue  early,  they  make  fresh  roots,  and  become 
re-established  before  the  winter.  Fresh  plantations  of  Strawberries 
may  still  be  made  with  a  considerable  chance  of  success,  but  such 
heavy  crops  of  fruit  must  not  be  expected  as  from  those  planted 
early  last  month. 

Conservatory.  —  Plants  that  have  tender  constitutions,  like 
Heaths,  Epacris,  Chorozemas,  etc.,  must  soon  have  the  shelter  of 
the  greenhouse  or  pit.  Give  the  structures  intended  for  their 
winter  quarters  a  thorough  cleansing,  and  whitewash  the  walls  with 
hot  lime  previously  to  bringing  the  plants  indoors.  Pay  particular 
attention  to  the  roots  with  respect  to  moisture  ;  and,  whilst  guarding 
against  keeping  them  too  wet,  see  that  they  do  not  suffer  from 
drought.  Shift  on  Cinerarias,  Calceolarias,  and  Primulas  as  the 
case  demands.  Those  intended  for  earl}r  flowering  must  go  into 
their  flowering-pots  at  once,  if  they  have  not  yet  received  their  final 
shift.  Place  Fuchsias,  as  they  go  out  of  flower,  outside  for  a  week 
or  ten  days,  to  insure  the  wood  being  well  matured  before  packing 
them  away  for  the  winter. 

Stove.  ■ —  Nearly  all  the  summer-flowering  occupants  of  this 
structure  have  now  completed  their  growth,  and  require  more  light 
and  air,  and  less  warmth  than  they  have  been  receiving  lately.  They 
should,  therefore,  be  placed  in  the  coolest  end  of  the  house,  and 
winter-flowering  subjects,  such  as  Gesneras,  Justicias,  Poinsettias, 
Thyrsacanthus,  etc.,  must  have  every  encouragement  for  acquiring 
strength  before  the  light  declio.es  too  much.  Orchidaceous  plants 
must  also  have  free  exposure  to  the  light,  to  effect  a  thorough  matu- 
ration of  the  newly-made  pseudo-bulbs  ;  and  unless  that  is  done, 
few  flowers  next  season  must  be  expected.  Withhold  the  syringe 
after  the  beginning  of  the  month,  unless  in  exceptional  cases,  and 
maintain  the  necessary  atmospheric  humidity  by  sprinkling  the 
floors. 

Forcing. — Pines  swelling  their  fruit  must  have  liberal  encou- 
ragement ;  the  temperature  should  range  from  80°  to  90°,  with  a 
bottom-heat  of  85°.  Reduce  the  temperature,  and  ventilate  some- 
what liberally,  even  if  extra  fire-heat  becomes  necessary.  Give  all 
the  air  possible  to  Vines  from  which  the  crop  has  been  gathered,  and 
keep  the  atmosphere  dry  in  houses  in  which  the  grapes  are  hanging. 
Those  just  colouring  also  require  plenty  of  air,  even  if  artificial 
warmth  is  required  to  maintain  the  proper  temperature.  Young 
Cucumber  plants  must  be  raised  at  once,  where  a  supply  is  re- 
quired throughout  the  winter.  Melons  ripening  must  have  extra 
warmth  to  finish  them  off  quickly,  or  they  will  be  insipid  and 
flavourless. 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE.  287 

Pits  and  Frames. — Pot  off  intermediate  stocks  in  good  turfy- 
loam,  mixed  with  a  liberal  proportion  of  rotten  manure  and  leaf- 
mould.  Sow  Mignonette  for  late  work,  and  thin  that  already  up  to 
about  five  plants  to  each  five  or  six-inch  pot.  Give  abundance  of 
air  to  cuttings  of  bedding  plants  that  are  rooted,  and  draw  the 
lights  off  altogether  when  thoroughly  established. 


TO    CORRESPONDENTS. 


Planting  Spring-Flowering  Bulbs. — A  Subscriber,  Harrogate. — Although 
very  frequently  done,  it  is  not  good  practice  to  plant  hyacinths,  tulips,  and  crocuses 
in  the  same  bed,  because  they  flower  at  different  periods,  and  at  one  time  the  beds 
present  the  appearance  of  pictures  without  frames,  and  at  another  frames  without 
a  picture.  Planting  several  classes  of  bulbs  in  the  same  bed  is  only  advisable  when 
the  arrangements  of  each  class  are  made  independent  of  each  other.  The  bulbs  can 
be  planted  rather  close  together,  and  a  distinct  arrangement  of  hyacinths,  tulips, 
and  crocuses  may  be  made  iii  the  bed.  You  would  then  have  a  display  of  crocuses 
first,  followed  by  the  hyacinths  and  tulips.  If  this  cannot  be  done  conveniently, 
plant  each  bed  with  a  distinct  class  of  bulbs.  All  beds  intended  to  be  planted  with 
spring-flowering  bulbs  should  be  planted  with  dwarf-growing  plants,  such  as 
Forget-me-nots,  Arabis  green  or  variegated,  Alyssum  saxatile,  Daisies,  and  the 
golden-tipped  Stonecrop,  for  the  purpose  of  giving  them  a  bright  and  cheerful 
appearance  during  the  winter,  and  to  bring  out  the  flowers  of  the  bulbous  plants  to 
better  advantage  during  the  spring  months.  Those  who  have  hitherto  been  accus- 
tomed to  beds  of  hyacinths  and  tulips  planted  in  the  usual  manner,  will  be 
astonished  with  the  wonderfully  superior  effect  produced  when  they  are  in  bloom. 
It  is  practically  impossible  to  have  all  the  bulbs  mentioned  in  your  letters  in  bloom 
at  the  same  time. 

Raising  Pelargoniums  from  Seed. — An  Amateur,  Huddersfield. — The  whole 
subject  was  exhausted  in  a  series  of  papers  which  appeared  in  the  Floral  World 
for  February,  April,  June,  and  July,  I860.  The  numbers  may  be  obtained  from  the 
publishers,  or  through  a  bookseller. 

Weather  Guide. — A.  H. — We  are  much  obliged  by  your  offer,  but  are  unable 
to  accept  it.  Judging  from  the  forecast  of  the  summer  quarter,  we  are  afraid  you 
will  not  do  much  towards  proving  "  that  it  is  possible  to  foretell  the  character  of  the 
weather  months  beforehand." 

Banksian  Roses.— D. — The  simplest  and  safest  way  to  deal  with  the  young 
plants  is  to  leave  them  where  they  are  until  the  early  part  of  November,  and  then 
plant  them  in  their  permanent  quarter. 

Making  New  Lawns.— J".  F".— Spergula  will  form  a  capital  lawn,  but  it  requires 
careful  management,  especially  when  first  planted,  hence  it  is  that  it  is  seldom  seen. 
Lawns  can  be  laid  down  with  grass  seed,  and,  in  some  cases,  eventually  surpass 
those  laid  down  with  turf.  The  ground  requires  careful  preparation,  and  seeds  of 
suitable  grasses  must  be  sown.  The  mixtures  of  lawn-grasses  sold  by  respectable 
firms  are  in  every  way  suitable,  and  if  you  specify  the  size  of  the  plot  to  be  laid 
down  in  giving  the  order,  you  will  have  the  proper  quantity  sent. 

Seedling  Auriculas.—^  Young  Florist.  —Seedling  Auriculas  that  are  now 
strong  should  be  potted  separately  in  small  pots,  in  a  light  mixture  of  loam  from 
retted  turves  two  parts,  clean  leaf-mould  two  parts,  thoroughly  decomposed  hotbed 
dung  one  part,  and  silver-sand  one  part.  In  this  mixture  they  will  winter  well,  and 
may  be  shifted  into  larger  pots  early  in  the  spring,  when  they  first  begin  to  move. 
A  simpler  way  of  wintering  is  to  plant  them  out  in  a  bed  five  inches  apart,  so 
arranged  that  a  frame  can  be  put  over  them  for  the  winter.  Many  will  show  bloom 
in  the  spring,  and  the  best  of  such  may  be  potted  to  keep  ;  the  worst  are  to  be 
weeded  out  and  destroyed.  If  any  of  them  throw  up  blooms  this  autumn,  pick  the 
blooms  out  ;  autumn  blooming  should  never  be  allowed.  Unless  they  are  crowding 
each  other,  it  will  be  better  to  wait  another  week  before  potting  them. 


288  THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

Gladioli  in  Pots. — R.  K.,  Kensington. — Gladioli  in  pots  should  be  kept 
growing  in  the  open  air  until  their  leaves  begin  to  wither,  and  then  it  is  well  to  lay 
the  pots  on  their  sides  near  a  wall  or  fence  facing  south,  to  ripen  off  the  bulbs.  If 
treated  in  this  way  they  will  bloom  finely  next  year,  but  if  the  leaves  are  prernaturply 
destroyed,  or  the  bulbs  are  kept  too  wet  when  they  ought  to  be  ripening,  they  will, 
perhaps,  perish  next  year,  instead  of  blooming      Treat  Watsouias  in  the  same  way. 

Amateur. — The  Floral  World  for  1862  and  1863  is  not  to  be  had  at  present 
bound  together  in  one  volume,  but  can  be  supplied  bound  in  two  distinct  volumes. 
A  few  copies  of  the  volumes  for  1867  and  1868  are  still  to  be  had,  price  7s.  6d. 
each,  but  the  numbers  for  January  and  February,  1866,  being  quite  out  of  piint, 
the  publishers  are  unable  to  complete  a  volume  for  that  year.  Ail  the  remaining 
numbers  are  procurable. 

Show  Pelargoniums. — A  Young  Gardener. — August  and  September  are  two 
good  months  in  which  to  purchase  show  pelargoniums,  and  the  under-mentioned 
are  the  most  desirable  of  the  older  kinds  '.—Large-flowering  Varieties. — Alba 
Formosa  Alabama,  Archbishop,  Attraction,  Emperor,  Bonnie  Charlie,  Beacon, 
Charles  Turner,  Claribel,  Corsair,  Harold,  Hebe,  Hermit,  Heroine,  King  Arthur, 
Lady  of  the  Lake,  Luna,  Lord  Clyde,  Lord  Napier,  Maid  of  Honour,  Milton,  Mary 
Hoyle,  Mr.  Rassam,  Nonpareil,  Nabob,  Olivia,  Orange  Spot,  Peleus,  Prince  of 
Denmark,  Progress,  Queen  of  Roses,  Rustic,  Shakespeare,  Troubidour,  Victoria, 
William  Hoyle  Fancy  Varieties. — Agrippa,  Belle  of  the  Season,  Brightness, 
Helen  Beck,  Miss-in -her-teens,  Arabella  Goddard,  Leotard,  Delicatum,  East  Lynne, 
Excelsior,  Fanny  Gair,  Silver  Mantle,  Miss  Dorling,  Cloth-of-Silver,  Duchess  of 
Buccleuch,  Formosa,  Marmion,  Madame  Sainton-Dolby,  Andromeda,  Lady 
Carrington,  Mrs.  Mendal,  Mrs.  A.  Wigan,  Lady  Dorothy  Neville,  Princtss  of  Teck, 
Undine. 

Best  Thirty  Verbenas  for  Pot  Culture. — S.,  Sussex. — Ace  of  Trumps, 
Ada  Ring,  Anatole  Leroy,  Annie,  Annie  Keynes,  Achievement,  Beauty  of  Kent, 
Conspicua,  Duke  of  Edinburgh,  Florence  Fiddian,  G.  P.  Tye,  Geant  des  Batailles,  Isa 
Key,  King  of  the  Verbenas,  Lotty  Eckford,  Lord  Leigb,  Lady  Langlesbury,  Mrs.  S. 
P.  Hole,  Mauve  Queen,  Miss  Wimsett,  Mrs.  Eckford,  Mrs.  Pochin,  Master  Jacobs, 
Mons.  Wood,  Nemesis,  Out  and- Outer,  Polly  Perkins,  Princess  of  Wales,  R.  H. 
Vertegans,  Reine  des  Roses,  Shakespeare,  Shirley  Hibberd,  Spot,  Thomas  Lawdon, 
Violet  Perfection. 

Propagation  of  Clematis. — Amateur. — The  best  way  to  propagate  Clematis 
ccerulea  is  to  select  at  once  a  vigorous  shoot  and  lay  it  down.  Let  it  spring  up 
again,  and  then  nick  with  a  sharp  knife  the  back  of  every  joint,  and  peg  each  joint 
into  a  pot  filled  with  a  good  potting  compost,  and  plunge  each  pot  to  the  rim. 
Every  joint  will  thus  make  a  plant,  and  every  such  plant  will  be  better  than  those 
from  layers  made  in  the  ordinary  manner. 

Mtosotis  dh-sitiflora. —  TV.  H. — The  best  way  to  bloom  this  gem  in  February 
would  be  to  take  cuttings  now,  and  grow  them  into  good  sized  plants  in  a  cool  frame. 
Use  very  rich  soil  after  they  have  made  good  roots,  and  give  plenty  of  water  till 
the  middle  of  September;  then  give  them  no  mote  than  will  just  keep  them  green 
and  fresh.  In  December  bring  a  fnw  into  a  house  kept  at  about  SO3,  and  in  January 
bring  in  a  few  more,  and  they  will  bloom  on  all  points  of  their  new  growth. 

A.  Belt  for  a  Fountain. — _K. — Nothing  better  for  the  vicinity  of  a  fountain 
than  Pampas  grass,  Elvmus  glauca,  Tritoma  uvaria,  Hydrangeas,  Fuchsias, 
Lysimachia  thyrsiflora,  CEnothera  Fraseri,  Calla  Ethiopica,  Osmunda  regalis, 
Athyrium  Filix-fcemina,  Arundo  donax,  and  other  such  plants  of  graceful  habit 
and  fond  of  moisture.  You  cannot  have  anything  grand  to  flower  in  winter,  but 
you  may  plant  the  banks  with  winter  aconite,  Christmas  rose,  and  primroses. 

Propagating  Pelargonium. — Lady  Plymouth. — The  best  place  in  the  world, 
because  the  surest,  to  strike  the  whole  of  the  variegated  pelargoniums,  including 
the  gold  and  silver  zonals,  at  this  season,  is  a  nice  warm  border  facing  the  south. 
We  have  struck  thousands  this  way,  and  it  is  seldom  one  goes  off.  If  you  put 
in  this  way  the  few  cuttings  of  Lady  Plymouth  which  you  mention,  you  will 
experience  no  difficulty  in  rooting  them,  and  you  can  calculate  upon  having  nineteen 
plants  for  every  twenty  cuttings.  Prick  up  the  soil,  and  then  make  the  surface  firm  ; 
and  after  putting  in  the  cuttings,  water  moderately,  and  then  leave  them  alone  until 
they  have  roots  half  an  inch  long,  when  they  may  be  taken  up  and  potted. 


THE     COLD  EN-LEAVED     ALDER, 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE.  289 

GARDEN"  TEEES. 

{Illustrated  with  Coloured  Plate  of  the  Golden-leaved  Alder.) 

[HE  season  lias  returned  in  which  to  purchase  and  plant 
deciduous  trees,  and  those  who  begin  early  will  have 
the  best  prospect  of  making  a  satisfactory  end.  In  the 
mild  autumnal  days,  when  showers  are  frequent  and 
the  ground  is  warm,  trees  carefully  transplanted  make 
new  roots  in  their  new  positions  with  great  rapidity,  and  in  the 
succeeding  spring  present  their  leaves  and  flowers  so  freely  and 
vigorously  as  to  afford  no  hint  in  their  appearance  of  having  lately 
changed  their  place.  But  with  every  delay  there  is  an  augmentation 
of  the  injury  which  every  tree  must  inevitably  suffer  by  removal. 
In  the  first  case  the  injury  is  trifling,  and  recovery  therefrom  rapid. 
The  longer  we  defer  to  plant,  the  more  serious  is  the  injury,  and 
the  recovery  is  slow  in  a  corresponding  degree,  so  that  it  comes  to 
this  at  last,  that  trees  planted  in  the  spring  are  as  likely  to  die  as 
to  live,  and  to  move  a  tree  when  it  is  coming  into  leaf,  is  to  put  its 
life  in  jeopardy. 

On  the  subject  of  planting,  the  foregoing  remarks  are  all  that 
we  can  afford  space  for  at  present.  The  prevailing  poverty  of 
gardens  troubles  us,  and  having  to  accompany  the  plate  of  the 
golden  alder  with  a  few  remarks,  we  embrace  the  occasiou  to  say 
that  ornamental  trees  are  not  made  enough  of  in  our  gardens,  the 
tendency  of  planters  being  towards  forest  trees  rather  than  to  such  as 
we  may  properly  call  "  pictorial,"  or  perhaps  more  properly  garden 
trees.  The  immense  variety  of  majestic,  graceful,  and  even  of  gro- 
tesque forms  at  our  command,  the  diversities  of  colours  of  leaves 
and  flowers,  the  changing  aspects  of  those  that  present  us  now  with 
tender  green  leafage,  now  with  wondrous  sheets  of  bloom,  and  anon 
acquire  the  fiery  hues  that  accompauy  the  falling  of  the  leaf,  afford 
a  succession  of  delights  to  those  who  have  planted  wisely  and  made  a 
proper  distinction  in  the  selection  of  their  trees  between  the  garden 
and  the  park,  between  the  dressed  ground  and  the  rustic  woodland, 
or  far-stretching  forest.  Of  all  places  in  the  world  where  beautiful 
trees  appeared  to  be  best  appreciated,  the  suburbs  of  London  must 
have  honourable  mention.  Indeed  the  rural  surroundings  of  the 
great  metropolis  are  rich  in  whatever  money  can  buy  and  taste 
dispose  of,  and  the  occasional  demonstrations  of  mere  cockneyism 
are  swamped  out,  as  it  were,  from  the  general  aspects  of  the  out- 
door world  by  the  bountiful  displays  of  high-class  arborescent  vege- 
tation. But  there  is  room  for  improvement  here  as  elsewhere,  and  we 
look  forward  to  the  development  of  a  taste  for  true  garden  trees, 
and  propose  to  promote  it  by  these  observations,  and  the  lists  of 
selected  subjects  that  will  supplement  them. 

Beautiful  trees  are  not  despised  in  this  country,  though  the 

dwellers  in  towns  give  less  attention  to  them  than  they  should  for 

their  own  bodily  and  spiritual  health  ;  and  those  who  profess  to 

love  trees,  manifest  their  love  in  a  way  too  cheap  and  hasty  to  Becure 

vol.  ti. — no.  x.  19 


290  THE    FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

them  the  "  praise  that  comes  to  constancy."     The  joy  with  which 
anyone  in  treaty  for  the  purchase  of  an  estate  speaks  of  the  "  timber" 
upon  it,  and  the  earnestness  with  which  a  "  want  of  timber  "  is 
deplored,  demonstrate  a  larger  love  of  trees  than  we  should  any- 
where expect  to  find  if  we  were  to  judge  the  case  by  the  practices 
that  prevail  in  planting.      Lovers  of   trees,   and  we  may  say  the 
designers  and  improvers  of  rural  scenery,   tend  always  to  tread  in 
ancient  tracks.     We  have  no  epithets  of  depreciation  to  spare  for 
oaks  and  elms  and  beeches,    and  we  do  not  incline  to  say  a  word 
against  the  soil-exhausting  ash,  or  the  heaven-hiding  and  lumpy- 
headed  chestnut.     "We  revere  these  trees  ;.   we  glory  in  groves   of 
them  ;  we  are  never  weary  of  their  aspect  at  any  season  of  the  year, 
and  even  when  they  are  leafless  we  can  find  beauty  and  majesty  in 
their  outline.     Our  complaint  against  the  landscape  gardeners  and 
the  amateurs  in  trees  is  that,  in  the  formation  of  the  gardenesque, 
they  make   small  effort  to  obtain  variety  of  effects,   and  trust  too 
much  to  the  trees  of  the  forest  and  the  park  for  the  decoration  of 
the  garden.     It  is  even  so,  but  it  should  be  far  otherwise.     What 
should  we  say  of  the  gardener  who  filled  the  borders  on  the  terrace, 
and  the  beds  in  the  parterre  with  "  pimpernels  and  wilding  thyme," 
but  that  he  had  mistaken  his  vocation,   and  sought  on  the  breezy 
hills  of  Britain  for  flowers  when  he  ought  to  have  been  on  a  voyage 
to  the  Cape  ?     There   are  garden  flowers  as  there  are  woodland 
flowers,  there   are  garden  trees  as  there  are  forest  trees,  and  the 
artist  who  can  determine  the  proper  scope  of  his  work  will  always 
recognize  the  distinction  between  them  ;  he  will  not  go  to  the  ex- 
treme of  saying  that  oaks  and  elms,  and  limes  and  beeches,  should 
never  be  seen  in  gardens  ;  for  we  should  hesitate  and  consider  many 
times  ere  we  should  arrive  at  a  determination  to  cut  down  a  fine 
example  of  a  forest  tree  in  any  garden  ;  but  we  repeat  that  these 
are  not  the  subjects  to  be  first  thought  of  when  the  resolve  has 
been  taken  to  form  a  garden,  and  the   question  arises  as  to  the 
selection  of  trees  for  it.     Yet,  for  garden  purposes,  pictorial  trees 
abound  :  trees  of  large  growth,  of  middling  growth,  and  of  miniature 
growth ;    trees   that  flower  in   spring,   that  fruit  in    summer,    that 
become  glorious  with  colour  when  autumn  passes  her  burning  hand 
amongst  the  leaves.     We  have  weeping  trees  and  laughing  trees ; 
we  have  solemn-leaved  trees  that  enrich  the  well-planned  scene  with 
their  deep  tones  of  colour,  and  we  have  variegated-leaved  trees  that 
light  it  up  with  their  grey  and  golden  and  silvery  hues ;  we  have 
trees  with  leafage  like  lace  or  gauze,  and  we  have  trees  with  foliage 
so  ponderous  that  one  might  imagine  they  had  been  cast  in  bronze, 
with  the  object  solely  of  creating  beneath  them  the  best  possible 
imitation  of  midnight,  in  contrast  to  the  radiance  of  mid-day   at 
midsummer   all  around.      We   can  imagine   many  of  our   readers 
asking,  "  Where  are  these  wondrous  trees  ?      Let   us    see    them  ; 
help  us  to  select,  and  purchase,   and  plant,  that  we  may  realize  the 
outdoor  pleasures  you  bespeak  in   connection  with  these  things." 
Where  are  they  ?    In  the  nurseries  !    But  how  to  see  them,  "  there's 
the  rub."     We  may  read  of  a  golden-leaved  tulip-tree,  or  a  purple- 
leaved  maple-tree,  or  of  a  poplar  that  drops  its  thick-leaved  boughs 


THE  FLORAL    WORLD   AND   GARDEN    GUIDE.  291 

in  exquisite  order  round  it,  to  form  a  perfect  canopy  of  verdurous 
coolness  "'gainst  the  hot  season;"  hut  to  see  such  things,  even 
with  a  view  to  purchase  them,  is  difficult.  Yes,  it  is  so.  At  the 
nurseries  we  may  find  them  all,  even  to  the  latest  novelties,  but  it 
may  be  that  nine-tenths  of  all  the  trees  we  wish  to  see  are  to  be 
found  only  in  the  shape  of  puny  examples  fresh  from  the  hands  of 
the  propagator.  The  nurseryman  cannot  help  it :  he  must  make  the 
most  of  plants  that  have  cost  him  large  sums  of  money,  and  it  is  his 
business  to  cut  a  costly  tree  into  as  many  pieces  as  the  leaves  upon 
it,  and  make  of  every  leaf,  with  the  incipient  bud  at  its  base,  an 
article  of  merchandise,  which  in  years  to  come  shall,  under  some 
cultivator's  care,  display  characteristics  of  beauty,  of  which  at  present 
it  does  not  afford  a  single  foreshadow. 

Well,  it  cannot  be  helped.  To  indicate  a  defect  in  the  economy 
of  an  art,  especially  if  the  indication  be  made,  as  this  is,  in  the 
midst  of  its  practitioners,  is  a  great  step  towards  its  rectification. 
We  need  a  national  arboretum,  but  we  cannot  hope  for  anything  of 
the  sort  whilst  South  Kensington  is  considered  the  centre  of  artistic 
energies,  while  it  is  in  reality  only  the  centre  of  systematic  jobbery. 
To  keep  away  from  politics  we  close  up  here,  and  add  the  promised 
lists,  which  comprise  none  but  good  things. 

Trees  Flowering  in  Spring  (including  the  best  for-  garden 
borders,  shrubberies,  and  front  lines).  —  Snowy  Mespilus,  Ame- 
lanchier  botryapium,  white,  15  feet,  very  elegant ;  Weeping  Almond, 
A.  communis  pendula,  pink,  15  feet,  pendulous  ;  Double-flowering 
Peach,  A.  persica  flore-pleno,  peach,  8  feet ;  Double-flowering  Cherry, 
Cerasus  domestica  flore-pleno,  15  feet,  white ;  Dwarf  Almond,  C. 
japonica  multiplex,  5  feet,  pink,  pretty  ;  Weeping  Cherry,  C.  pendula, 
10  feet,  white,  very  elegant ;  Judas  Tree,  Cercis  siliquastrum,  10 
feet,  red,  distinct  and  fine  ;  Double  Scarlet  Thorn,  Crataegus  oxycan- 
tha  coccinea  plena,  12  feet,  red  ;  Double  AVhite  Thorn,  G.  o.  multiplex, 
12  feet,  white,  very  beautiful ;  Single  Scarlet  Thorn,  G.  o.  punicea, 
15  feet,  scarlet,  very  showy  ;  Weeping  Laburnum,  Gytisis  laburnum 
pendula,  8  feet,  yellow  ;  Double- flowering  plum,  Primus  domestica 
flore-pleno,  8  feet,  white  ;  Double  Pink-flowering  Plum,  P.  triloba, 
8  feet,  rosy  pink,  pretty ;  Chinese  Crab,  Pyrus  malus  spectabilis, 
4  feet,  rosy  pink,  lovely  ;  Kino;  Charles's  Lilac,  Syringa  vulgaris 
Charles  X.,  12  feet,  deep  red ;  AVhite-flowered  Lilac,  8.  v.  alba,  12 
feet,  white ;  Cut-leaved  Persian  Lilac,  S.  persica  laciniata,  8  feet, 
reddish  lilac. 

Beautiful  Lawn  Trees  (of  a  distinct  and  graceful  habit,  for 
planting  singly  in  conspicuous  positions). — Weeping  Birch,  Betula 
alba  pendula,  12  feet,  weeping  tree,  D. ;  Lvergreen  Chesnut,  Gastanea 
chrysophylla,  20  feet,  spreading  tree,  E. ;  Judas  Tree,  Cercis  siliquas- 
trum, 20  feet,  spreading  tree,  D.  ;  Plum-leaved  Thorn,  Crataegus 
crus-galli  prunifolia,  15  feet,  erect  tree,  d.  ;  Cut-leaved  Thorn,  G. 
oxycantha  laciniata,  12  feet,  spreading  tree,  handsome,  D. ;  Fern- 
leaved  Beech,  Fagus  sylvatica  asplenifolia,  20  feet,  spreading  tree,  D. ; 
AVeeping  Beech,  F.  s.  pendula,  15  feet,  tree,  pendent  branches,  d.  ; 
Weeping  Ash,  Fraxinus  excelsior  pendula,  15  feet,  tree,  pendent 
branches,  n.  ;  Spiny-leaved  Grleditschia,  Gleditschia  horrida,  15  feet; 


292  THE  FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

spreading  tree,D.;  Panicle-flowered  Kolreuteria,  K.p>aniculata,\b'  feet, 
spreading  tree,  d.  ;  Tulip  Tree,  Liriodendron  tulipifera,  20  feet, 
spreading  tree,  D. ;  Imperial  Paulownia,  P.  vnvperialis,  25  feet, 
spreading  tree,  lilac  flowers,  d.  ;  Weeping  Poplar,  Populus  tremula 
prui/ ula,  20  feet,  tree,  branches  pendent,  d.  ;  Oval-leaved  Photinia, 
Bapliiolepis  ovata,  10  feet,  spreading  shrub,  e.  ;  Venetian  Sumach, 
Rhus  coUn/us,  8  feet,  spreading  tree,  elegant,  D. ;  Mop-head  Acacia, 
Robmia  inermis,  8  feet,  small  standard  tree,  d.  ;  Maidenhair  Tree, 
Salisbur/a  adiantifolia,  20  feet,  erect  tree,  d.  ;  Weeping  Willow, 
Salix  purpurea  pendula,  20  feet,  tree,  d.  ;  Weeping  Lime,  Tilia  alba 
pendula,  15  feet,  tree,  drooping,  d.  ;  AVeeping  Wych-Elm,  TJlmus 
montanus pendulus,  15  feet,  tree,  graceful,  d. 

Coniferous  Trees  for  Lawns  (including  thoroughly  hardy, 
most  elegant-habited  sorts,  in  any  soil  or  climate). — Chilian  Pine, 
Araucaria  imbricata,  25  feet,  distinct  and  telling;  Deodar  Cedar, 
Oedrus  deodara,  40  feet,  graceful,  quick  grower  ;  Erect  Green-leaved 
Cvpress,  Cupressus  Laicsoniana  erecta  viridis,  20  feet,  very  fine  ; 
Graceful  Cypress,  C.  L.  gracilis,  20  feet,  very  elegant  in  growth  ; 
Pyramidal  Juniper,  Juwiperus  pyramidalis  stricta,  10  feet,  compact- 
growing  ;  Rigid  Juniper,  J.  rigida,  15  feet,  ends  of  shoots  pendulous  ; 
Variegated  Red  Cedar,  /.  mrginiana  variegata,  6  feet,  very  beautiful ; 
Nordmann's  Silver  Fir,  Picea  Ncfrdmanniana,  20  feet,  fine  habit  ; 
Spanish  Silver Eir,  P.pinsapo,  20  feet,  distinct,  beautiful ;  Large-coned 
Pine,  P.  macroearpa,  50  feet,  very  bold  ;  Pyrenean  Pine,  P.  pyrenaica, 
40  feet,  bold  in  outline  ;  Blunt-leaved  Eetinispora,  B.  obtusa,  6  feet, 
very  elegant ;  Golden-leaved  Retinospora,  B.  pisifera  aurea,  6  feet, 
golden  tipped  ;  Feathery-leaved  Retinospora,  B.  plumosa,  6  feet, 
graceful  habit;  Umbrella  Pine,  Sciadopiiys  verficittata,  30  feet,  very 
distinct ;  Golden  Tew,  Taxus  baccata  aurea,  5  feet,  golden  leafage ; 
Elegant  Yew,  T.  b.  elegantissima,  6  feet,  golden  variegation — this  is 
the  best  variety  ;  Glaucous-leaved  Thujopsis,  T.  borealis  glauca,  10 
feet,  compact,  variegated  ;  Weeping  Thujopsis,  T.  Standishi,  10  feet, 
pendulous  branches;  Gigantic  Arbor-vita?,  Thuja  gigautea,  20  feet, 
superb  ;  Golden  Arbor-vita?,  T.  oriental  is  aurea,  3  teet,  compact  and 
handsome,  tickle  in  growth. 

Variegated-leaved  Trees  (including  many  which  have  rich  and 
varied  colours  in  spring  and  early  summer). — Variegated  Cut-leaved 
Maple,  Acer pectiiiatu m  variegatum,15  feet,  elegant, d.;  Variegated  Sy- 
camore, A.  alio  variegata,  30  feet,  showy,  d.;  Variegated  Negundo,  A. 
negundo  variegata,  20  feet,  margined  white,  d.,  a  splendid  tree;  Golden 
leaved  Spanish  Chesnut,  Castanea  vesca  variegata,  30  feet,  golden 
margin,  D. ;  Golden-leaved  Catalpa,  Catalpa  syringcefolia  aurea,  30 
feet,  very  showy,  d.  ;  Purple-leaved  Xut,  Corylus  avellana  purpurea, 
12  feet,  distinct,  d.  ;  Variegated  Thorn,  Crataegus  oxycantha  variegata, 
15  feet,  silver  stripes,  d.  ;  Purple  Beech,  Fagus  sylvatica  purpurea, 
30  feet,  leaves  black,  purple,  D. ;  Golden  Beech,  F.  s.  var.,  20  feet, 
yellow  edge,  n. ;  Aucuba-leaved  Asb,  Fraxinus  aucubafolia,  30  feet, 
spotted,  d.  ;  Golden-blotched  Ela?agnus,  E.  reflexa  maculata,  20  feet, 
showy,  e.  ;  White  Beam  Tree,  Pgrus  aria,  40  feet,  under  surface  of 
leaves  white,  d.  ;  Variegated  Weeping  Mountain  Ash,  Pgrus  aucu- 
paria  pendula  var.,  20  feet,  D. ;  Variegated  Turkey  Oak,  Quercus 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  293 

cerris  variegata,  30  feet,  yellow  margin,  d.  ;  Golden  Oak,  Q.  concordia, 
30  feet,  golden  leaves,  d.;  Black  Oak,  Q.  nigra,  30  feet,  blackishleaves, 
distinct,  d.  ;  Silver-leaved  Alaternus,  Hhamnus  foliis  argenteis,  10 
feet,  silver  variegated,  e.  ;  Variegated  Narrow-leaved  Alaternus,  B. 
angustifolla  var.,  10  feet,  e.  ;  Silver-leaved  Lime,  Tilia  argentea,  40 
feet,  under  side  of  leaves,  white,  d.  ;  Silver  Elm,  Ulmus  campeslris 
variegata,  30  feet,  white  variegation,  d.  ;  Golden  Elm,  U.  c.  aurea, 
30  feet,  bright  golden  leaf,  d.  ;  Variegated  Weeping  "Wych-Elm,  U. 
montana  pendulavar.,  15  feet,  d.  ;  Golden-leaved  Tulip  Tree  Lirioden- 
dron  tulipiferum,  var.  aureo-pictis,  richly  variegated  ;  Purple  Weeping 
Elm,  Ulmus  campestris  pendula  purpurea,  20  feet ;  Golden-leaved 
Alder,  Alnus  glandulosa  aurea,  rich  golden  leafage  (see  coloured 
plate). 

Trees  richly  coloured  in  Autumn  (just  before  shedding  their 
leaves,  a  number  of  which  are  fine  for  park  or  garden). — Norway 
Maple,  Acer  platanioides,  30  feet,  leaves  die  olf  yellow ;  Scarlet 
Maple,  A.  ruhrum,  30  feet,  leaves  die  off  red  ;  Virginian'Bird  Cherry, 
Cerasus  virginiana,  20  feet,  leaves  die  off  yellow  ;  Cockspur  Thorn,  G. 
crus-galli,  15  feet,  decaying  leaves  bronzy  red  ;  Yellow-berried  Thorn, 
G.flava,  15  feet,  decaying  leaves  yellow  ;  Pear-leaved  Thorn,  C.  pgri- 
folia,  15  feet,  leaves  die  off  yellow ;  Dark-leaved  Spindle  Tree, 
JEuonymus  atropurpureus,  8  feet,  dies  off  red  and  purple  ;  Broad- 
leaved  Spindle  Tree,  E.  latifolius,  15  feet,  decaying  leaves  purple  ; 
Three-spined  Gleditschia,  G.  tricauthos,  40  feet,  decaying  leaves 
yellow ;  Black  Walnut,  Juglans  nigra,  30  feet,  yellow,  showy ; 
Panicle- flowered  Kolreuteria,  K.  paniculata,  20  feet,  yellow  ;  Liqui- 
dambar,  L.  styraeijlua,  30  feet,  yellow  and  crimson ;  Tulip  Tree, 
Liriodendrom  lulipifera,  40  feet,  yellow ;  White  Mulberry,  Moms 
alba,  20  feet,  yellow,  valuable  for  its  fruit ;  Bed-flowered  Pavia,  P. 
ruhrum,  6  feet,  brown-red;  Leafy  Pear,  Pgrus  vestita,  yellow;  neat 
and  pretty ;  Arbutus-leaved  Pear,  P.  arbutifolia,  6  feet,  crimson  ; 
Scarlet  Oak,  Quercus  coccinea,  40  feet,  red,  valuable  for  its  timber  ; 
Mirbeek's  Oak,  Q.  Mirbechi,  20  feet,  yellow,  fine  for  parks  ;  Venetian 
Sumach,  Rhus  cotinus,  8  feet,  yellow,  useful  for  small  lawns  ;  Stag's- 
Horn  Sumach,  E.  tgphina,  20  feet,  red ;  Veined-leaved  Sumach,  H. 
venenatum,  10  feet,  scarlet ;  Lime  Tree,  Tilia  europaia,  40  feet,  yellow, 
useful  for  avenues.  S.  H. 


CULTIVATION  OF  THE  GLADIOLUS. 

HIS  magnificent  autumnal  flower  adroitly  evades  inclusion 
in  any  of  the  classifications  usually  adopted  in  books  and 
catalogues.  We  cannot  class  it  with  hardy  perennials, 
because,  as  a  rule,  it  cannot  be  left  in  the  open  ground 
during  winter,  as  we  might  leave  a  lily,  a  tritoma-,  or 
a  phlox.  If  we  class  it  with  bulbous  flowers,  the  cynical  critic  will 
rebuke  us  on  the  ground  that  the  so-called  bulb  of  the  gladiolus  is 
nothing  of  the  sort,  and  may  not  be  treated  in  precisely  the  same 
way  as  a  bulb,  whether  in  ordinary  cultivation,  or  for  the  purpose 


294  THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

of  increasing  the  stock.  We,  therefore,  make  it  the  subject  of  a 
separate  paper,  a  proceeding  happily  justified  by  its  high  character 
as  a  decorative  plant  and  its  rapidly  increasing  popularity. 

The  advance  of  this  noble  flower  in  popularity  is  a  matter  for  the 
greatest  satisfaction.  It  is  strange  that  its  capabilities  should  have 
been  known  to  cultivators  years  and  years  before  they  took  it  in 
hand  in  earnest ;  but  they  have  clone  this  at  last,  and  our  autumn 
displays  are  made  peculiarly  splendid  with  its  rich  varieties  of 
colour  ;  and  its  graceful  outlines  afford  an  agreeable  relief  to  the 
predominance  of  ungraceful  subjects  which  then  usually  prevail. 
One  great  and  glorious  advantage  of  its  habit  and  constitutional 
character  is  that  it  will  ripen  seed  in  our  gardens,  and  to  this  may 
be  added  that  it  is  not  a  difficult  subject  to  hybridize,  so  that  the 
raising  of  seedlings — the  greatest  charm  of  all  the  charms  of  floricul- 
ture— is  within  the  range  of  the  Englishman's  garden  pleasures. 

In  the  cultivation  of  the  gladiolus,  the  matter  of  first  inq^ortance 
is  the  kind  of  soil  required.  In  constitution  and  requirements  the 
gladiolus  stands  exactly  midway  between  the  ixia  and  the  crocus. 
Like  those  useful  members  of  the  Iridaceous  order,  it  has  a  root 
which,  in  botanical  language,  is  called  a  "  corm,"  and  which  never 
flowers  more  than  once.  While  growing  aboveground,  the  corm  is 
forming  duplicates  of  itself  in  the  ground  below.  It  is  to  the 
interest  of  the  grower  not  only  to  promote  the  development  of 
the  leaves  and  flowers,  but  also  of  the  offsets,  for  these  are  his  stock 
in  trade,  and  if  he  does  not  save  them  in  good  condition,  he  must 
buy  again  :  but  if  his  system  of  cultivation  is  perfect,  he  needs 
but  a  first  start  in  the  roots  that  are  desirable,  and  he  may  increase 
his  stock  from  year  to  year  ad  libitum. 

In  our  experimental  garden  gladioli  have  been  grown  in  every 
kind  of  soil — in  peat,  in  common  garden  loam,  in  land  heavily 
manured,  in  hungry  sand,  and  in  carefully  prepared  mixtures.  It 
is  evident  by  their  behaviour  that  they  are  not  so  particular  as  to  soil 
as  is  generally  supposed.  Downright  drought  and  starvation  are 
ruin  to  them ;  excess  of  manure  is  equally  destructive ;  but  in  any 
free  and  moderately  generous  soil  they  grow  well,  flower  freely, 
and  perpetuate  themselves  in  useful  progeny.  The  result  of  much 
observation  and  frequently  repeated  experiments  is  that  peat  is 
favourable  to  a  good  bloom,  but  not  to  a  fair  development  of  offsets  ; 
that  heavy  damp  soil  is  unfit  for  them,  but  is  easily  improved  by  the 
addition  of  leaf-mould  and  thoroughly  rotten  manure  ;  that  sandy 
road-drift  is  first-rate  to  ameliorate  any  kind  of  stubborn  stuff;  but 
that  the  best  soil  of  all  is  just  such  as  Lilium  lancifolium  thrives 
in,  consisting  of  bits  of  turf,  fibrous  loam,  fibrous  peat,  leaf-mould, 
rotten  manure,  and  sharp  sand,  in  about  equal  proportions.  This 
is  free,  porous,  water  will  not  readily  lodge  in  it,  yet  it  does  not 
become  dry  quickly,  as  is  the  case  with  sandy  peat,  and  it  is  full  of 
nourishment.  A  few  years  ago  it  was  the  prevailing  opinion  that 
animal  manure,  such  as  rotten  dung,  was  quite  unfit  for  them.  This 
was  a  mistake,  though  not  quite  founded  on  fallacy.  The  fact  is,  an 
excess  of  manure,  or  rank  manure,  or  any  such  powerful  stimulus  as 
a  rose  or  a  cauliflower  would  accept  with  relish,  is  pretty  sure  to 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND   GARDEN    GUIDE.  295 

cause  disease  in  gladioli.  But  a  fifth  part  of  thoroughly  decayed 
manure  in  a  sweet  friable  state  is  of  great  service,  both  to  bring 
out  the  colours  rich  and  true,  and  promote  the  formation  of  a  strong 
brood  of  offsets.  In  its  native  country  the  gladiolus  is  subject 
to  a  deluging  summer,  with  much  heat  and  a  not  severe  winter, 
which  is  comparatively  dry.  In  a  mild  autumn  the  leaves  are  reluc- 
tant to  die  down,  which  shows  that  after  flowering  it  is  the  nature 
of  the  plant  to  grow  freely ;  it  is  like  the  crocus  in  that  respect,  and 
needs  its  leaves  in  the  same  manner  to  assist  in  the  formation  of  the 
progeny.  The  early  flowering  of  the  crocus  enables  it  to  finish  off 
its  growth  with  fair  weather  if  the  gardeners  do  not  cruelly  cut  or 
plait  its  graceful  leaves,  and  so  it  just  suits  our  climate.  Not  so 
with  the  gladiolus  ;  our  autumal  frosts  often  overtake  it  before  it 
has  finished  its  season,  and  this  fact  affords  a  point  of  some  import- 
ance for  the  consideration  of  the  cultivator.  It  is  evident  that  a 
boggy  soil  must  be  very  injurious  if  the  bulbs  are  left  in  the  ground 
to  a  late  period  of  the  year.  We  may  be  sure  that  plenty  of  water 
in  summer,  and  dryness  with  shelter  in  the  winter,  are  circumstances 
favourable  to  flowering  and  increase.  Thus  we  learn  on  what  prin- 
ciple to  form  the  bed  for  these  flowers.  A  well-drained  position,  a 
deep  sandy,  free  nourishing  soil,  containing  not  a  particle  of  anything 
rank  or  sti'ong,  some  amount  of  shelter  if  possible,  but  full  exposure 
to  the  sun,  or  only  partially  shaded,  and  water  at  hand  in  case  of 
a  dry  season,  when  there  should  be  plenty  given  from  the  end  of 
May  to  the  end  of  July,  after  which  the  heavens  will  probably  supply 
all  they  want. 

It  follows,  from  the  foregoing  considerations,  that  if  we  could 
leave  the  bulbs  in  the  ground  all  the  winter,  it  would  be  far  better 
than  taking  them  up.  Unfortunately,  as  a  rule,  there  is  some  risk 
in  doing  so,  for  a  hard  frost  after  heavy  rains  might  sweep  them 
all  off;  yet,  if  they  really  passed  through  the  winter  unhurt,  the 
next  season's  growth  would  be  more  satisfactory  than  if  they  were 
taken  up  with  their  leaves  green  and  sappy,  and  dried  off  like  onions. 
The  fact  is,  the  young  corms  are  never  perfected  till  the  leaves  die 
naturally  ;  and  here  is  one  of  the  gi*eat  advantages  of  pot  culture, 
which  enables  us  to  place  them  under  cover  till  they  finish  off  natu- 
rally, without  any  disturbance  of  the  roots.  The  Ganclavensis  section 
is  the  most  hardy,  and  the  safest  to  leave  out,  and  if  the  beds  are 
well  drained  and  somewhat  sheltered,  a  covering  of  decayed  tan  or 
quite  rotten  manure,  or  even  sawdust,  two  or  three  inches  deep, 
will  keep  them.  But  the  Ramosus  section  is  too  tender  to  treat 
in  this  way,  and  under  some  circumstances  the  Ganclavensis  race  are 
safer  all  winter  dry  and  under  cover  than  in  the  ground.  There  is 
a  bed  of  Brenchleyensis  in  our  garden  which  has  not  been  disturbed 
for  five  years.  There  have  been  no  perceptible  losses,  and  the  bed  has 
thickened  so  much  that  during  summer  the  mass  is  like  a  huge  tuft 
of  some  strong-growing  grass,  with  myriads  of  showy  flowers  scat- 
tered through  it.  But  while  this  thickening  has  been  going  on 
there  has  been  degeneration  :  the  growth  is  weak,  and  the  flowers 
are  small — evidence  enough  that  they  have  exhausted  the  soil  they 
are  in,  and  must  be  moved  now  or  go  to  ruin.     This,  perhaps,  is  an 


296  THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 

argument  for  lifting,  apart  altogether  from  the  risks  attendant  upon 
the  coldness  and  humidity  of  our  winters.  When  we  have  wrought 
up  a  florist's  flower  to  a  high  condition,  we  find  that  it  must  be  well 
fed  to  keep  it  true,  and  to  maintain  in  its  full  extent  the  field  for 
further  improvement.  Hence  the  majority  of  our  most  prized 
florist's  flowers  require  to  be  perpetually  propagated,  replanted, 
renewed  from  buds  and  germs  and  seeds.  The  question  arises, 
then,  if  it  will  not  always  do  to  leave  them  in  the  ground,  what 
shall  we  do  with  them  ?  First,  then,  let  there  be  no  haste  to  dry 
them  off,  and  do  not  completely  dry  the  young  corms  at  all.  Lift 
them,  and  pack  them  close  in  boxes  or  beds  of  earth  iri  sunny  pits 
or  greenhouses,  and  keep  the  soil  in  which  they  are  packed  so 
slightly  moist  that  it  will  not  soil  the  fingers  if  crumbled  between 
them.  If  the  soil  is  really  wet,  there  will  be  an  outbreak  of  mildew  ; 
but  a  moisture  sufficient  to  prevent  untimely  ripening  is  perfectly 
safe  and  beneficial.  When  the  leaves  turn  yellow,  and  it  is  obvious 
their  season  of  activity  is  over,  lift  them,  shake  off  the  soil,  and  lay 
them  in  a  dry,  sunny  place  :  the  best  possible  place  for  them  is  a 
dry,  warm  shelf  in  a  greenhouse.  They  will  soon  be  ripe,  and  you 
will  have  corms  of  several  sizes — large  ones  for  next  season's 
flowering,  and  small  ones  that  will  not  flower,  but  must  be  grown 
on  to  flowering  size.  The  advice  to  take  them  up  in  October,  and 
dry  them  off  quickly,  has  had  much  to  do  with  the  disease  that  has 
prevailed,  there  can  be  no  doubt,  for  it  often  happens  that  the  offsets 
are  then  not  sufficiently  grown  to  have  an  independent  existence, 
and  forcing  them  into  this  by  hasty  di'ying  and  separating  is  a 
process  of  weakening  which  will  show  its  results  hereafter.  We 
have  treated  these  and  cannas  by  one  and  the  same  process  with 
the  best  success,  by  packing  them  pretty  close  in  boxes  with  gritty 
soil  in  a  nearly  dry  state,  and  placing  them  in  pits  to  finish  their 
career  for  the  season. 

The  best  way  to  keep  them  through  the  winter  is  in  sand.  Long 
exposure  to  the  atmosphere  is  injurious.  If  kept  in  a  warm  place, 
many  of  them  will  begin  to  grow  prematurely,  and  in  that  case 
must  be  immediately  potted,  and  kept  dry  and  cool,  but  safe  from 
frost,  till  April,  and  then  should  be  placed  in  the  open  air,  in  a 
shady  place ;  and  when  the  pots  are  full  of  roots,  they  may  be 
planted  out  without  so  much  as  removing  the  crocks.  The  potting 
process  is  unquestionably  the  best,  because  of  the  long  season  of 
growth  it  allows  of;  but  any  kind  of  forcing  is  injurious.  Those 
who  desire  to  have  a  prolonged  bloom  should  begin  to  pot  in 
January,  and  continue  with  succession  batches  till  the  end  of  March, 
after  which  the  corms  may  be  planted  in  the  open  ground  with 
safety.  If  potting  is  not  convenient,  keep  the  bulbs  cool  and 
covered  till  the  first  week  in  April,  and  then  plant  them.  That  late 
planting  is  not  of  necessity  ruinous  has  been  proved  on  several  occa- 
sions, for  we  have  seen  in  the  month  of  September  a  large  batch 
blooming  in  a  very  satisfactory  manner  that  were  not  planted  till 
somewhere  about  the  previous  Midsummer  Day.  The  usual  advice 
is  to  plant  them  three  inches  deep.  This  is  not  deep  enough  ;  large 
corms  should  be  six  inches  deep,  and  the  smallest  four  inches.     A 


THE   FLORAL   WORLD    AND   GARDEN   GUIDE.  297 

very  effective  way  is  to  plant  them  in  clumps  of  threes  a  foot  apart 
every  way.  But,  to  bring  them  out  to  the  best  advantage,  a  mixture 
of  other  subjects  is  advisable,  and  for  this  purpose  there  is  nothing 
so  o-ood  as  the  canna,  because  of  the  grandeur  of  its  leafage,  m  which 
resnect  the  gladiolus  is  deficient.  As  this  noble  flower  thrives  in 
peat,  an  effective  mode  of  displaying  it  is  to  plant  in  April  a  collection 
of  the  most  showy  varieties  in  the  front  of  an  American  bed,  where 
they  will  have  the  advantage  of  a  rich  background  of  rhododendron 
leafage. 

BEST    ONE    HUNDRED   GLADIOLI. 

Achille,Adolp7ie  Brovgniart,  Anais,  Apoilon,  Argus,  Belle  Gabrielle, 
Bernard  de  Jussieu,  Calypso,  Garminata,  Charles  Dickens,  Clemence, 
Cuvier,  Comte  de  Morny,  Diana,  Chateaubriand,  Cheruhin,  Due  de 
MalaJcoff,  Dr.  Lindley,  Edulia,  El  Dorado,  Endymion,  Etendard, 
Eugene  Scribe,  Eurydice,  Felicien  David,  Fenelon,  Flore,  Florian,  Ful- 
ton, Galilee,  Homer,  Irruperatriee  Eugenie,  James  Watts,  James  Veitch, 
John  Waterer,  Lady  Franklin,La  Fiancee, Lord  Byron,Lord  Granvdle, 
Lord  Raglan,  Madame  Desportes,  Madame  Dombrain,  Madame  de  Se- 
vigne,  Madame  Domage,  Madame  Furtado,  Madame  Vilmorin,  Madame 
Adele  Souchet,  Madame  Basseville,  Madame  Binder,  Madame  de 
Vatry,  Madame  Haquin,  Madame  Rabourdin,  Madame  Rougier 
Chauviere,  MacMahon,  Maria,  Mary  Stuart,  Marechal  Vaillant, 
Mathilde  de  Landevoisin,  Meyerbeer,  Michel  Ange,  Milton,  Mohere, 
Monsieur  Camille  BemarcHn,  Monsieur  Lebrun  d'Albanne,  Mozart, 
Napoleon  III.,  Nemesis,  Newton,  Ninon  de  VFnclos,  Ophir,  Oracle, 
Oscar,  Penelope,  Princess  Clothilde,  Princess  Mary  of  Cambridge, 
Princess  Mathilde,Prince  of  Wales,  Princess  of  Wales,  Princess  Ahce,_ 
Racine,  Rebecca,  Rembrandt,  Peine  Victoria,  Rev.  M.  J.  Berkley,  Rot 
Leopold,  Rubens,  Semiramis,  Sir  J.  Paxton,  Sir  W.  Booker,  Shake- 
speare, Schiller,  Stephenson,  Stewart  Low,  Thalie,  Thomas  Methven, 
Thomas  Moore,  Ulyssc,  Tirana,  Vesta,  Vicomtesse  de  Belleval,  Virgil, 
Walter  Scott. 

TWENTY-FOUR    SPLENDID    CHEAP    GLADIOLI    FOR    GROUPING. 

Aristotle,  Brenchleyensis,  Boiviensis,  Chateaubriand,  Cardinalis, 
Couranti  fulgens,  Daphne,  Den  Juan,  Dr.  Andry,  Fanny  Rouget, 
Formosissimus,  Floribundus,  Gil  Bias,  Gandavensis,  Imperatrice, 
Janire,  John  Bull,  Madame  Coudere,  Mars,  Mons.  Blouet,  Mons. 
Vincheon,  Mons.  Georgeon,  Queen  Victoria,  Triomphe  d'Enghein. 

o.  xi . 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 
A  FEW  WORDS  ABOUT  ROSES. 

BY   W.    D.    PBIOB,    ESQ. 

>HE  current  season  has  been  singularly  prolific  in  lessons 
about  roses.  In  the  first  place,  the  cessation  of  the 
customary  annual  issue  from  France,  consequent  upon  the 
great  war,  has  afforded  an  opportunity  for  more  thorough 
trial  than  usual  of  the  newer  varieties  already  here.  In 
the  second  place,  the  exhibitions  having  extended  over  a  much  wider 
time,  particularly  owing  to  the  admirable  and  deservedly  successful 
supplementary  Rose  Show  at  the  Crystal  Palace,  more  varieties  have 
been  brought  under  review  than  possibly  ever  appeared  before. 
Practically,  Rose  Shows  have  extended  from  the  24th  of  June  well 
on  to  September,  because  specimens  of  cut  blooms  have  formed 
items  at  all  flower  shows  up  to  the  latest  date.  The  professed 
rosarian,  however,  will  not  have  confined  his  observations  to  such  a 
limited  area.  Public  and  private  collections  of  celebrity  will  have 
been  visited,  and  their  specialities  noted,  and  principles  duly  deve- 
loped from  the  whole  combined  sources  at  command.  Some  of  the 
results  attained  by  such  an  exhaustive  criticism  may  appear,  perhaps, 
somewhat  startling — open  to  objection,  it  may  be — but  they  cannot 
be  advantageously  ignored.  Thus,  a  complete  revision  of  the  cata- 
logues appears  to  be  imminent,  because  it  is  no  longer  possible  to 
give  the  best  twenty-five  or  the  best  fifty  varieties,  as  was  formerly 
the  case.  Setting  aside  a  distinct  few,  there  are  now  so  many  illus- 
trations of  specific  styles,  that  the  choice  of  their  individual  repre- 
sentatives is  matter  of  the  nicest  consideration — often  resolving 
itself  into  a  simple  matter  of  opinion.  When  it  is  said  a  revision  of 
the  catalogues  must  take  place,  it  is  not  meant  that  trade  growers 
must  materially  diminish  the  number  of  varieties  included  in  the 
stock  they  cultivate  ;  but  that  the  selections  of  the  choicest  hitherto 
received  must  be  remodelled  in  accordance  with  the  qualifying 
lights  afforded  by  the  latest  experiences.  Henceforth,  then,  it  will 
be  desirable  to  give,  not  the  best  fifty,  but  fifty  of  the  best,  roses, 
etc.,  by  such  authorities  as  wish  to  escape  challenge  of  their  ver- 
dicts. Such,  however,  is  the  course  we  shall  follow,  subject  to  any 
special  modifications  circumstances  may  render  necessary.  Another 
result  of  owr  examinations  is  a  grave  doubt  whether  future  attempts 
to  obtain  perfection  in  the  rose  ought  not  to  be  carried  out  through 
entirely  different  strains  to  those  lately  employed.  We  have 
obtained  great  size  ;  we  have  increased  the  dimensions  of  petals — 
particularly  the  depth — and  likewise  their  substance ;  but  we  have 
undeniably  decreased  their  number,  and,  in  too  many  cases,  have 
lost  true  doubleness,  for  there  is  scarcely  a  modern  rose  of  any  note 
which,  when  fully  open,  does  not  expose  a  defective  centre,  or 
display  an  eye.  If  we  take  good  specimens  of  Baronne  Prevost, 
Gloire  de  Dijon,  Malmaiaon,  and  numerous  older  roses,  we  shall  find 
the  small  centre  petals  buckling  over,  as  it  were,  and  never,  under 
any    circumstances,   permitting   the    "seed-process"    to    be    seen; 


THE    FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  299 

whereas  a  few  hours'  trial  of  a  full-blown  flower — even  of  Alfred 
Colombo,  and  modern  roses  of  equal  repute — inevitably  reveals  the 
eye.  This  is  so  patent  a  defect,  that  no  effort  ought  to  be  spared  to 
get  rid  of  it.  "We  had  better  abandon  new  roses  altogether,  what- 
ever other  merits  they  possess,  than  allow  this  vicious  feature  to 
become  iueradicably  fixed,  going  back  to  some  of  the  best  of  older 
kinds  as  seed-bearers  for  our  future  uovelties.  Coarseness,  and  its 
concomitant  raggedness,  is  also  another  frequent  defect  found  in 
new  roses — that  is,  on  the  stands.  It  is  by  no  means  certain,  in  all 
cases,  whether-this  fault  actually  belongs  to  the  rose  itself,  or  is  not 
rather  developed  by  the  grower,  in  his  attempts  to  secure  abnormal 
size.  Many  of  these  huge  roses  at  the  exhibitions  are  by  no  means 
similar  monstrosities  upon  the  bushes  in  the  rosery.  Indeed,  the 
case  is,  in  some  respects,  analogous  to  prize  beasts  and  fatted  pigs 
at  a  Cattle  Show. 

Another  curious  idea  which  is  apt  to  arise  in  the  mind  of  an  old 
rosarian  is,  whether  we  are  not  getting  certain  bygone  varieties, 
forgotten  by  most,  over  again  under  new  names — a  little  improved, 
it  may  be,  by  superior  cultivation.  It  is  certain  that,  with  adroit 
management,  it  would  not  be  a  very  difficult  piece  of  deception  to 
palm  oft*  roses  of  kinds  now  forgotten.  How  many  of  our  modern 
judges  could  detect  a  bloom  of  L' Enfant  du  Mont  Carmel,  or 
.Noemie,  or  Toujours  Pleurie,  if  placed  upon  the  show-table  amongst 
others  r1  This  reflection  suggests  an  interesting  experiment  for  any 
rosarian  suitably  placed  for  carrying  it  out.  Early  in  November, 
let  a  breadth  of  proper  soil,  where  the  climate  is  favourable  for 
superior  development  of  roses,  be  prepared,  and  half-a-dozen  strong 
plants  of  the  Manetti  be  procured  and  carefully  planted,  of  each  of 
the  following  old  kinds,  for  instance : — Heine  des  Floeurs,  Baronne 
Hallez,  Baron  Heckeren,  Cornet,  General  Brea,  General  Pelissier, 
Gloire  de  Parthenay,  Jacques  Lafitte,  L'Enfant  du  Mont  Carmel, 
Leon  des  Combats,  Madame  Masson,  Marquis  d'Ailsa,  Prince  Im- 
perial, Toujours  Fleurie,  and  Triomphe  de  Paris.  All  of  these,  well 
grown,  possess  the  element  of  size,  as  well  as  symmetry.  Let  the 
ground  be  well  mulched,  and  let  them  receive  the  best  possible 
culture,  liquid  manure  and  disbudding  ;  and  let  the  blooms  thereof 
be  exhibited  at  the  Shows  the  next  season  under  the  denomination 
of  "  seedlings  " — of  course,  no  pecuniary  imposition  being  attempted. 
We  imagine  two  certain  results  would  follow.  Pew  would  detect 
their  real  character,  and  their  undoubted  beauty  and  superior  points 
would  excite  universal  admiration.  Some  such  comparison  is  re- 
quired from  time  to  time,  before  any  varieties  should  be  suffered  to 
lapse  into  oblivion,  and  before  mere  novelties  should  be  allowed  to 
finally  supersede  first-rate  kinds  already  in  cultivation  ;  and  for  this 
reason  :  there  is  considerable  accident  in  the  repute  of  roses,  owing 
to  the  compulsion  competitors  are  under  to  cut  what  they  have,  and 
not  what  they  would  choose,  on  fixed  dates.  Did  circumstances 
permit,  we  would  carry  out  this  experiment  ourselves.  Meantime, 
we  look  with  considerable  interest  for  some  enterprising  amateur  to 
work  out  the  idea  as  a  valuable  phase  iu  lessons  upon  the  rose. 

There  is  also  wide  scope  for  ascertaining  accurately  the  relative 


300  THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

possession,  amongst  newer  roses,  of  that  important  property,  con- 
tinuity of  bloom.  There  are  certain  that  we  have  remarked  by  no 
means  to  be  relied  on  in  this  respect,  particularly  when  seasons  are 
unfavourable.  Others,  again,  are  apt  to  deteriorate  in  the  quality 
of  their  autumn  bloom.  Many  complaints  have  reached  us  that 
the  remarkable  rose,  Baroness  Rothschild,  exhibits  this  defect,  in 
common  with  that  celebrated  old  variety,  Madame  Domage,  the 
autumnal  flowers  of  which  seldom  present  the  almost  redundant 
doubleness  of  those  produced  in  the  summer  season. 

We  completed  our  observations  for  the  summer  season  at  the 
extensive  rose-grounds  of  Mr.  John  Eraser  (Lea  Bridge  Road 
Nurseries),  in  company  with  that  eminent  rosariau  himself.  These 
will  result,  in  due  season,  in  not  a  little  change  in  the  selected  lists, 
which  have  hitherto  held  a  certain  position  in  our  opinion,  and  even 
mate,  as  our  Transatlantic  cousins  say,  indistinct  divisions  into  new 
and  old,  in  giving  future  selections  of  the  best  varieties,  which  will 
be  forthcoming  at  the  appointed  time. 


ZONAL  PELARGONIUMS  FOR  POT  CULTURE. 

[ROPA GATING  zonal  pelargoniums  for  the  decoration 
of  the  conservatory  and  the  embellishment  of  the 
flower-garden,  will  be  proceeded  with  in  earnest  during 
the  next  three  or  four  weeks,  and  possibly  a  selection 
of  the  varieties  most  suitable  for  the  conservatory  will 
be  useful  to  many.  One  of  the  most  prevalent  mistakes  in  the 
cultivation  of  the  zonal  pelargoniums  for  conservatory  decoration  is 
the  growing  of  the  most  popular  bedders,  which  are,  with  but  two 
or  three  exceptions,  utterly  unfit  for  the  purpose,  and  even  when 
well  grown  have  a  very  ragged  and  unfinished  appearance.  It  is 
also  a  very  frequent  occurrence  to  meet  with  competitive  groups  at 
public  exhibitions,  made  up  entirely  with  such  varieties  as  Stella, 
Christine,  Trentham  Scarlet,  and  others  of  a  similar  character,  and 
when  they  come  before  me  to  judge,  I  always  feel  inclined  to  with- 
hold the  prizes  altogether,  for,  however  well  they  are  grown,  the 
collection  does  not  have  a  satisfactory  appearance,  or  create  a 
favourable  impression  on  the  visitor.  None  of  the  double-flowering 
varieties  are  suitable  for  the  flower-garden,  but  a  reform  in  the 
selection  of  the  varieties  is  none  the  less  necessary,  for  some  cul- 
tivators adhere  to  those  varieties  which  were  first  introduced,  and 
are  now  quite  surpassed.  It  is,  of  course,  impossible  for  all  gera- 
nium growers  to  keep  pace  with  the  introduction  of  new  varieties, 
neither  is  it  desirable  ;  to  buy  all  that  are  distributed  every  year 
would  incur  an  unnecessary  expense,  and  burden  the  houses  with 
plants,  practically  speaking,  not  really  worth  the  room  they  occupy. 
At  all  events,  such  is  my  experience,  and,  no  doubt,  it  is  not  by  any 
means  singular.  My  collection  is  not,  perhaps,  so  large  as  many 
others,  for  it  only  contains  two  hundred  and  sixty  varieties.  Room 
cannot  be  spared  for  more,  and  when  a  new  one  is  added  to  the 


THE    FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  301 

collection,  one  of  the  worst  has  to  be  destroyed  to  make  way  for  it. 
So  large  a  number  is  not,  of  course,  necessary  when  they  are  merely 
required  for  the  conservatory,  but  a  greater  interest  is  attached  to 
the  cultivation  of  twenty  distinct  varieties,  one  plant  of  each,  than 
would  be  attached  to  the  same  number  of  plants  of  say  two  or 
three  sorts.  Therefore  I  should  recommeud  each  cultivator  to  grow 
a  reasonable  number,  say  from  twenty  to  thirty. 

The  selections  of  varieties  with  ornamental  leafage,  given  by  Mr. 
Oubridge,  in  the  July  number  is  so  good  that  the  selections  now 
given  will  be  confined  strictly  to  those  grown  for  their  flowers. 
Taking  those  with  scarlet  flowers,  it  may  be  said  with  truth  that, 
although  Richard  Headly  has  been  before  the  public  some  time,  it  is 
still  unsurpassed  in  its  way,  and  can  be  heartily  recommended. 
Splendour,  sent  out  by  Caunell,  of  Woolwich,  last  year,  is  in  the 
way  of  Sambo  (one  of  the  darkest  scarlets  in  commerce),  but  the 
flowers  are  more  perfect  in  form,  and  produced  in  much  larger 
trusses.  Pride  of  Kent,  by  the  same  raiser,  is  of  a  lighter  shade,  but 
in  other  respects  it  is  equally  good,  and  one  of  the  finest  of  its 
class.  Jean  Sisley  is  also  good  ;  the  flowers  of  fine  form,  and  pro- 
duced very  freely  ;  for  exhibition  purposes  it  is  of  little  value,  as  the 
petals  drop  so  soon  when  the  plants  are  moved  about.  Coleshill  is  in 
the  way  of  Lord  of  the  Isles,  and  very  desirable,  but  its  chief  value 
is  for  winter  flowering.  Shades  of  Evening,  deep  rosy  scarlet,  one 
of  a  set  sent  out  by  Mr.  Groom,  of  Ipswich,  is  grand  in  every 
respect ;  Mann's  Am.abilis,  deep  crimson ;  Bell  and  Thorpe's  John 
Thorpe,  rosy  red,  and  Shakespeare,  bright  red,  are  all  good  for  pot- 
culture,  as  also  are  Georye  Peabody,  deep  crimson  scarlet ;  Duke  of 
Devonshire  and  Duke  of  Portland.  Diana,  velvety  crimson,  laq'o, 
bright  orange  scarlet,  and  Sir  Charles  Napier,  three  varieties  raised 
by  Dr.  Denny,  are  most  valuable  acquisitions  for  the  conservatory, 
but  they  are  rather  expensive  as  yet. 

The  varieties  with  flowers  of  an  intermediate  shade  of  colour  are 
even  more  valuable  than  those  mentioned  above.  In  the  class  with 
flowers  of  a  magenta  or  bluish  crimson  shade,  Dr.  Denny's  Ianthe 
must  have  the  first  place.  The  flowers  are  large,  of  good  form  and 
the  bluish  shade  is  very  decided  in  the  lower  petals.  The  second 
best  in  the  same  way  is  Madame  Mezard,  a  variety  received  from 
the  Continent  two  or  three  years  since,  but  as  yet  little  known.  It 
is  now  cheap,  and  should  find  a  place  in  every  collection  of  zonal 
pelargoniums  in  pots,  for  it  is  not  only  distinct  in  colour,  but  it  has 
a  neat  habit,  and  produces  its  flowers  in  the  most  profuse  manner 
throughout  the  season.  Arthur  Pearson  and  Duncan,  two  varieties, 
with  flowers  of  a  magenta  shade,  are  remarkably  good,  and  form 
fine  companions  to  the  above ;  indeed,  no  collection  should  be 
without  them. 

In  the  section  of  pink  flowers  of  the  hue  represented  by  Chris- 
tine, CannelPs  Master  Christine  is  most  valuable.  The  flowers  are  of 
moderately  good  form,  and  produced  in  large  trusses  in  the  most 
profuse  manner  possible.  Beauty  of  Lee  is  in  much  the  same  way 
as  the  preceding,  and  very  useful.  Adelaide,  rose  pink,  Mrs.  Keeler 
delicate  tinted  pink,  and  Surpasse  Miss  Martin,  are  all  desirable,  and 
perfectly  distinct  from  each  other. 


302  THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 

The  varieties  with  painted  flowers,  of  which  Gloire  de  Corbrny 
and  Madame  Werle  are  types,  are  most  valuable  for  pot-culture, 
because  of  the  great  beauty  of  the  flowers,  and  the  charming  con- 
trast they  present  to  those  with  scarlet,  and  other  highly-coloured 
flowers.  Hibberd's  Alice  Spencer,  tinted  with  salmon  pink  ;  Maiden's 
Blush,  tinted  witli  pink  ;  Miss  Gladstone,  white,  with  pink  centre  ; 
Purity  (Eckford's),  salmon  pink  centre  ;  and  Heine  Blanche,  white, 
tinted  with  blush,  are  all  grand,  and  the  best  in  the  section. 

There  are  a  large  number  of  varieties  with  salmon  flowers,  but 
the  best,  in  my  opinion,  are  Acme,  rich  in  colour,  and  of  fine  shape  ; 
Madame  Jean  Sisley,  good  colour,  and  well-proportioned  truss.; 
L'Aurore,  the  brightest  colour  in  the  section  ;  Pioneer,  good,  fine 
rich  colour  and  attractive;  Seraph,  dwarf  and  strong.  There  are 
now  in  commerce  several  varieties  in  this  section  with  striped  flowers, 
but,  in  my  opinion,  they  are  not  worth  growing  ;  they  are  distinct, 
but  they  lack  effectiveness,  and  are,  therefore,  undesirable. 

Three  white-flowering  varieties  are  ample  in  a  moderate  col- 
lection, and  the  following  should  be  selected.  Hibberd's  White 
Wonder;  Eckford's  Purity,  and  Windsor's  Bride,  all  of  which  are 
first-rate. 

Some  of  the  nosegay  varieties  are  also  suitable  for  pot-culture, 
and,  when  well  grown,  are  very  showy  indeed.  The  best  are,  Mr. 
Gladstone,  deep  crimson  scarlet ;  Wellington,  dark  maroon  scarlet, 
one  of  Dr.  Denny's  seedlings ;  La  Pere  Hyacinthe,  orange  scarlet ; 
David  Garrick,  very  rich  deep  crimson ;  Charles  Diclcens,  cerise 
purple.  The  two  latter  were  raised  and  sent  out  by  Messrs.  Bell 
and  Thorpe,  of  Stratford-on-Avon ;  they  are  both  first-class,  and  the 
latter  was  voted  the  best  nosegay  in  cultivation  at  the  Geranium 
Show  at  South  Kensington.  Downie,  Laird,  and  Laing's  pink  May 
Queen,  deep  pink ;  Lady  Hawley,  light  orange  scarlet ;  and  Lady 
Kirldand,  deep  rosy  purple ;  and  Canuell's  Giant  Christian,  light 
pink ;  George's  Harry  George,  deep  scarlet  ;  Pearson's  Chilwell 
Beauty,  purplish  magenta ;  and  Paul's  Claude  Lorraine,  purplish 
crimson. 

For  a  selection  of  twelve  double-flowering  varieties,  take  Victor 
Lemoine,  bright  scarlet ;  Charles  Glym,  clear  deep  scarlet ;  Crown 
Prince,  rosy  peach  ;  Miss  Evelyn,  deep  pink  ;  Triomphe  de  Lorraine, 
cherry  red  ;  Mr.  Gladstone,  deep  rose,  shaded  orange  ;  Andrew  Hen- 
derson, very  rich  scarlet ;  Ville  de  Nancy,  rosy  scarlet ;  King  of 
Doubles,  salmon  scarlet ;  Scintillant,  bright  red ;  Sceptre  de  Lorraine 
deep  crimson  scarlet,  and  Victoire  de  Lyon,  deep  violet  crimson. 
The  last-mentioned  is  included,  for  the  sake  of  its  colour  only. 
It  is  inferior  in  the  quality  of  the  flowers  to  those  mentioned  above, 
but  the  flowers  are  not  so  bad  as  they  have  been  represented  to  be. 
August  25th.  John  Walsh. 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  303 

THE  BEGINNEll  IN   GRAPE   GROWING.— No.  VI. 

BY   WILLIAM    COLE, 
Head  Gardener,  Ealing  Park,  Middlesex. 

OUTDOOR  VINES. 

LTHOUGH  the  cultivation  of  the  grape  vine  in  the  open 
air  is  of  too  precarious  a  character,  in  this  country,  to 
justify  the  expenditure  of  a  considerable  sum  of  money 
in  the  preparation  of  the  border  or  the  purchase  of  the 
vines,  it  must  be  said  that  outdoor  vines  will  amply 
repay  the  cultivator  for  any  little  attention  bestowed  upon 
theni.  To  insure  good  crops  of  grapes  in  the  open  air  the  vines 
must  be  cultivated — that  is  to  say,  they  must  be  planted  in  suitable 
soils  and  situations,  and  they  must  have  careful  management  during 
the  growing  season.  More  frequently  than  otherwise  the  cul- 
tivator, rather  than  the  climate,  is  at  fault ;  the  vines  are  planted 
without  reference  to  the  suitability  of  the  situation,  and  left  pretty 
much  to  themselves,  and  the  climate  is  blamed  for  the  inferiority  of 
the  crop. 

A  south  aspect  is  best  suited  to  outdoor  vines,  although  with 
careful  management  they  will  do  well  trained  to  walls  facing  south- 
east or  south-west,  and  that  aspect  should,  if  possible,  be  set  apart 
for  them.  They  also  do  better  trained  to  high  walls  than  they  do 
to  low  ones ;  and  walls  not  exceeding  eight  feet  in  height  may  be 
more  profitably  employed  in  the  cultivation  of  the  peach,  pear,  or 
cherry,  than  they  would  in  the  growth  of  the  grape  vine.  Eences 
also  are  objectionable,  because  of  the  cold  current  of  air  which 
continually  passes  through  the  crevices  that  exist,  even  in  the  best 
constructed  fences  ;  and  which  materially  reduces  the  temperature  of 
the  air  in  contact  with  the  foliage  and  fruit.  Dwelling-houses 
having  suitable  aspects  present  unusually  favourable  conditions  for 
the  production  of  outdoor  grapes,  because  of  the  great  height  of  the 
walls  and  the  large  surface  they  present  for  the  development  of  the 
growth,  They  should  therefore  be  turned  to  account  for  that  pur- 
pose, especially  as  it  can  be  done  without  any  sacrifice  of  appearance 
for  the  grape  vine  is  unsurpassed  in  picturesque  beauty  by  any  other 
hardy  deciduous  climber. 

The  construction  of  the  border  is  second  only  in  importance  to  the 
selection  of  the  aspect,  as  so  much  of  the  meed  of  success  depends 
upon  the  roots  being  properly  provided  for.  As  shown  in  the 
accompanying  diagram,  the  manner  of  preparing  the  border  does  not 
differ  materially  from  the  way  in  which  the  borders  for  indoor  vines 
were  advised  to  be  formed  in  a  previous  number.  The  border  should 
be  about  eight  feet  wide,  and  three  feet  deep  ;  if  the  situation  is 
cold  and  wet,  it  should  be  elevated  above  the  surrounding  level 
and  the  soil  kept  in  its  place  by  a  neat  nine-inch  wall.  The 
soil  should  be  excavated  to  a  depth  of  four  feet,  if  the  border  is  to 


504 


THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND   GARDEN   GUIDE. 


BORDER    FOR    OUTDOOR    VINES. 


be  entirely  below  the  level,  and  a  layer  of  rough  stones  or  brickbats, 
twelve  or  fifteen  inches  in  thickness  put  in  the  bottom.  The  space 
can  then  be  filled  with  three  parts  turfy  loam,  one  part  horse 
droppings,    and  one  part   lime  rubbish.     There   is,    of  course,    no 

objection  to  the  use  of  bones,  but  they 
are  too  expensive  to  be  employed  in 
borders  for  outdoor  vines.  It  is  not, 
of  course,  necessary  to  have  the  bor- 
ders entirely  below  or  above  the  sur- 
face, but  they  may  be  partly  above 
and  partly  below,  according  to  the 
exigencies  of  the  case.  Even  in  dry, 
warm  situations  no  objection  whatever 
exists  to  their  being  elevated  entirely 
above  the  general  level.  The  drain 
at  the  lowest  part  of  the  border 
should  connect  with  the  main  drains, 
to  carry  off  the  water  which  collects 
in  it. 

Grape  vines  in  pots  can  be  planted  at  almost  any  time,  but  the 
two  most  suitable  periods  are  July  and  October,  and  the  last-men- 
tioned is  the  best  month  in  which  to  plant  vines  taken  up  from  the 
open  border.  The  manner  of  planting  when  the  vines  are  intended 
to  cover  the  walls  of  a  dwelling-house  is  clearly  portrayed  in  Fig.  2, 
and  when  the  vines  are  planted  in  the  manner  there  indicated,  the 
whole  of  the  wall  space  can  be  covered  without  interfering  with  the 
windows  or  the  light  in  the  slightest  degree.  A  slight  alteration 
may  be  made  in  the  planting  if  it  is  considered  at  all  desirable,  and 
four  vines,  two  on  each  side  of  the  door,  may  be  planted  instead  of 
having  two  on  one  side,  and  one  on  the  other,  as  in  the  present 
arrangement. 

The  advantage  of  having  two  sets  of  vines — one  set  for  the 
top  and  the  other  set  for  the  lower  half  of  the  wall — is  very 
considerable,  for  outdoor  vines  bear  better  when  trained  on  the 
long-rod  system,  and  it  is  seldom  that  twenty  feet  of  well-matured 
rod  is  produced  in  our  short  summers.  When  the  walls  do  not 
exceed  twelve  feet  in  height,  one  set  of  vines  will  be  quite  sufficient, 
and  for  ordinary  walls  they  should  be  planted  at  a  distance  of  four 
feet  apart,  and  each  vine  allowed  to  carry  four  rods,  two  fruit- 
bearing  canes  and  two  young  ones  for  bearing  the  following  season. 
In  planting  them  out  of  pots,  carefully  loosen  the  roots  round  the 
outside,  and  plant  them  deep  enough  to  cover  a  few  inches  of  the 
stem,  from  which  healthy  roots  will  be  emitted  in  a  short  time  after 
planting. 

The  long-rod  system  of  training,  by  which  a  constant  succession 
of  young  wood  is  maintained,  is  the  most  desirable  for  vines  in  the 
open  air.  The  first  season  after  planting  they  should  be  cut  back 
to  within  about  fifteen  inches  of  the  base.  In  the  spring  the  two 
top  buds  should  be  selected  for  training  horizontally,  one  to  the 
right  and  the  other  to  the  left;  and  when  the  one  on  the  right  has 
attained  a  length  of  eighteen  inches,  and  the  one  on  the  left  six 


THE    FLORAL    WOULD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 


305 


inches,  they  should  be  trained  perpendicularly  up  the  walls.  These, 
if  strong  and  well  matured,  may  be  left  their  whole  length  at  the 
winter  pruning,  and,  the  following  spring,  two  young  rods  should  be 
trained  up,  at  a  distance  of  twelve  inches  from  the  base  of  the  others 
— that  on  the  right  of  the  main  stem,  on  the  inside,  and  that  on  the 
left,  on  the  outside  of  the  perpendicular  rods.  By  this  system  the 
latter  will  always  be  kept  at  a  regular  distance  apart,  and  the  lateral 
growth  will  have  ample  space  for  development.  For  the  forcing 
the  second  rod  on  the  left,  it  will  be  necessary  to  select  a  strong 
shoot  at  the  base  of  the  first,  and  train  it  the  proper  distance  hori- 
zontally, and  then  take  it  up  in  the  manner  mentioned  above  ;  if  more 
than  two  'bearing  rods  are  required  on  each  vine,  a  new  cane,  in  the 


Fig.  2. — Training  Outdoor  Vines  to  Walls  of  Dwelling- Houses. 


manner  here  mentioned,  can  be  taken  up  each  season,  until  the 
requisite  number  is  obtained.  Fig.  2  is  a  fair  example  of  the  st\  le 
of  training  here  recommended,  but  there  should  be  four  rods  on  each 
side  of  the  windows. 

After  the  space  is  fully  occupied,  the  canes  which  have  borne 
fruit  should,  at  the  winter  pruning,  be  pruned  back  to  within  a  few 
inches  of  their  base,  and  the  young  canes  indicated  by  the  dotted 
lines  shortened  back  to  their  proper  length,  and  allowed  to  bear  a 
crop  of  fruit  the  following  season.  In  the  spring,  a  number  of  shoots 
will  push  from  the  base  of  the  cane  pruned  back  in  the  winter,  and 
the  strongest  must  be  selected  for  training  up  to  take  the  place  of 
the  one  removed.  This,  in  its  turn,  will  have  to  take  the  place  of  the 
present  fruit-bearing  cane,  and,  in  its  turn,  have  to  make  way  for 
vol.  yi. — no.  x.  20 


306  THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

others ;  the  young  canes  should  be  stopped  once  during  the  summer, 
when  they  have  attained  about  half  tbeir  length,  to  strengthen  the 
lower  buds,  and  also  they  should  be  stopped  when  they  have  attained 
their  full  length. 

If  the  canes  are  short-jointed,  it  will  be  necessary  to  remove  a 
portion  of  the  lateral  growth,  when  the  vines  start  into  growth  in 
the  spring.  As  a  rule,  the  laterals  should  be  about  nine  inches 
apart  on  each  side  of  the  rod,  and  a-  bunch  of  fruit  left  to  every 
alternate  lateral.  After  the  bunches  are  formed,  and  the  grapes 
gone  out  of  flower,  the  laterals  should  be  shortened  back,  and  all 
sub-laterals  removed  as  fast  as  they  make  their  appearance,  to  afford 
the  fruit  the  fullest  exposure  to  the  beneficial  influence  of  the  sun ; 
the  bunches  will  require  thinning  lightly  when  the  berries  are  of  the 
size  of  very  small  peas,  to  enable  the  latter  to  attain  their  full  size, 
which  of  course  it  is  impossible  for  them  to  do  when  they  are  left 
unthinned,  as  is  usually  done  in  the  case  of  vines- in  the  open. 

Vines  raised  from  eyes  are  the  best  for  outdoor,  as  they  are  for 
indoor  planting,  but  as  many  readers  of  this  do  not  possess  the 
necessary  conveniences  or  skill  for  that  mode  of  propagation,  a  few 
hints  on  one  or  two  ways  in  which  a  stock  can  be  more  readily  raised 
will,  in  all  probability,  be  useful. 

Cuttings  afford  the  readiest  means  of  raising  a  stock  when  there 
is  no  vine  already  in  the  garden,  and,  with  ordinary  care,  strike  very 
freely.    Some  time  in  November  select  moderately  short-jointed  and 
medium-sized  shoots,  that  are  well  matured;  fasten  them  together, 
in  a  bundle,  and  insert  them  temporarily  in  the  border,  and  protect 
from  very  severe  frost.     Early  in  March  cut  them  into  lengths  of 
three    or    four    joints-   each;    remove   the   two   lowest  buds,,  and 
plant  them  firmly  in  well-prepared  soil  in  the  open  border,  deep 
enough  for  the  bud  nearest  the  top  to  be  just  above  the  surfaces. 
"With  a  little  attention  in  watering,  and  keeping  clear  of  weeds,  the 
larger  portion  will  be  nicely  rooted  by  the  autumn,  and  be  in  good 
condition  for  planting,  or  they  may  be  transplanted  and  planted  out 
in  their  permanent  quarters  the  following  autumn.     In  propagating 
vines  by  layers,  it  is  simply  necessary  to  select  a  well-ripened  shoot, 
and  after  cutting  it  half  way  through,  in  a  slanting  direction,  on  the 
side,  that  it  will  be  lowest  when  it  is  pegged  down  in  the  soil,  and 
then  fastening  them  just  below  the  surface,  as   pourtrayed  in  Figs. 
3    and   4.      This   should    be   done    some   time   during   October   or 
March,  and  a  small  piece  of  potsherd  placed  in  the  wound,  to  pre- 
vent its  closing.     One  bud  only  should  be  allowed  above  the  sur- 
face, and  the  others  rubbed   off.     The  layers,   under  ordinary  cir- 
cumstances, will  be  well   rooted  by  the  end  of  the  summer,  but  it 
is  generally  preferable  to  defer  taking  them  off  uutil  early  in  the 
autumn. 

Fig.  3  shows  the  mode  of  layering  in  pots,  and  Fig.  4  that  of 
laying  in  the  open  border.  If  strong  shoots  are  selected,  and 
the  layers  watered  when  required,  vigorous  canes,  several  feet  in 
length,  may  be  secured  the  first  season.  A  number  of  vines  may 
be  raised  very  quickly,  by  pegging  a  strong  cane  down  in  a  shallow 
trench,  and   then  just  covering  it  with  sandy  soil.      Provided  the 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND   GARDEN    GUIDE.  307 

soil  is  kept  moist  in  dry  weather,  roots  will  be  emitted  through- 
out the  whole  length  of  the  cane ;  and  as  each  bud  will  form  nice 
little  canes,  a  very  large  number  of  vines  may  be  raised  with  very 
little  trouble. 

The   best  sort  for  the   open  walls   are  Early   White  Malvasia, 
Millers  Burgundy,  Espiran,  and  Royal  Muscadine.     In  very  favour- 


Fig.  3.  Fig.  4. 

Layering  the  Gbape  Vine. 

able  situations  the  Black  Hamburgh  may  be  planted,  but  as  it  requires 
rather  more  heat  than  we  usually  have,  it  cannot  be  depended 
upon.  It  should  be  planted  sparingly  in  very  favourable  situations 
only. 


FOKCING  ASTILBE  (HOTEIA)  JAPONICA. 

BY    THOMAS    TB.USSLEE, 
Head  Gardener,  High  Leigh,  Hoddesdon. 

'UKING  the  last  few  years  this  elegant  plant  has  acquired 
an  immense  popularity,  especially  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  the  Metropolis.  But  it  i&  not  prized  a  whit  more 
than  it  deserves,  for  it  is  undoubtedly  one  of  the  most 
elegant  plants  grown  for  the  decoration  of  the  con- 
servatory and  dinner  table,  during  the  early  spring  months.  The 
demand  for  it  in  this  country  is  now  so  large,  that  it  is  cultivated  in 
Holland  very  extensively  for  supplying  roots  ready  for  forcing,  and 
these  are  imported  in  almost  fabulous  quantities  by  the  leading  dealers 
in  Dutch  bulbs,  such  as  Messrs.  Hooper  &  Co.,  of  the  Central  Avenue, 
Covent  Garden,  through  whose  kindness  these  remarks  are  illus- 
trated with  a  portrait  of  a  complete  plant.  It  is  so  well  known 
that  there  are  but  few  who  are  not  more  or  less  acquainted  with  it, 
but  for  the  sake  of  that  few,  it  appears  necessary  to  say  that  the 
leaves  are  of  a  bright  glossy  green,  and  the  inflorescence  pure  white, 
presenting  a  charming  contrast  against  the  brilliant  leafage. 

The  roots  imported,  ready  for  forcing,  consist  of  several  crowns 
each,  and  should,  as  soon  as  they  come  to  hand,  be  potted  in  as  small 
a  size  pot  as  possible,  without  their  being  divided  or  otherwise  dis- 
turbed. Use  a  light  rich  compost,  consisting  of  loam,  leaf-mould,  and 
thoroughly  decayed  manure,  in  equal  parts.  The  pots  must  be  well 
drained,  for  when  the  plants  are  in  full  growth  they  will  require 
liberal  supplies  of  water,  and  unless  means  are  provided  for  carrying 
off  the  superfluous  moisture  quickly,  a  danger  will  exist  of  the  soil 
becoming  sour  through  its  remaining  in  a  constant  state  of  saturation. 


308 


THE    FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 


Pot  firm  and  bury  them  just  deep  enough  for  the  points  of  the 
crowns  to  show  above  the  surface  of  the  soil.  After  potting,  give 
them  a  good  watering  to  settle  the  soil,  and  set  them  in  a  cold  pit, 
but  apply  sufficient  protection  during  severe  weather  to  prevent  the 
soil  becoming  frozen. 

Unless  a  large  stock  is  grown  they  should  remain  in  the  frame 
until  February,  otherwise  a  few  may  be  started  about  a  month 
earlier.  For  amateurs,  who  only  have  a  dozen  or  so,  the  first  men- 
tioned month  will  be  quite  early  enough  to  start  the  first  batch  in 
heat.  From  the  pit  they  should  be  removed  to  the  greenhouse,  and  be 
placed  near  the  glass.  In  a  short  time  they  will  begin  to  show  signs  of 
growth,  and  then,  and  not  until  then,  they  may,  a  few  at  a  time, 
remove  to  a  rather  higher  temperature.  A  temperature  intermediate 
between  that  of  the  greenhouse  and  the  stove  is  the  most  suitable,  lor 


ASTILBE  (HOTEIA)  JAPONICA. 

they  must  be  pushed  on  very  slowly,  and  not  be  hurried  ;  if  it  is  a 
matter  of  necessity  to  put  them  in  the  stove  or  forcing  pit,  direct 
from  the  greenhouse,  place  them  in  the  coolest  end  and  allow  them  to 
remain  there  during  the  first  week  or  ten  days,  to  render  the  change 
as  slight  as  possible.  To  put  the  case  in  the  clearest  manner  possible, 
they  should  be  first  started  in  a  temperature  of  50',  and  have  a  rise 
of  55°,  from  thence  a  rise  to  60°,  and  then  allow  the  temperature  to 
rise  gradually  to  70°.  It  is  not  essential  that  these  temperatures 
should  be  strictly  adhered  to,  but  the  cultivator  will  act  wisely  in 
adhering  to  them  as  closely  as  circumstances  will  permit.  Those  who 
have  not  the  convenience  of  a  stove  or  forcing  pit  may  have  a  beau- 
tiful display  later  in  the  season  by  keeping  the  plants  in  the  green- 
house from  the  period  mentioned  above  until  they  are  in  full  bloom, 
where  they  can  remain  or  be  employed  in  the  decoration  of  the  indoor 
apartment  as  may  be  considered  the  most  desirable.     Even  when  the 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE.  309 

conveniences  for  forcing  them  does  exist,  a  few  should  remain  in  the 
greenhouse  to  maintain  a  succession,  until  late  in  the  season.  At  all 
stages  of  growth  they  must  be  kept  near  the  glass  and  have  liberal 
supplies  of  water  at  the  roots.  "When  in  the  conservatory  the  pots 
may  be  placed  in  saucers  containing  half  an  inch  of  water,  and  no 
more  ;  the  plants  after  they  go  out  of  bloom  may,  provided  the 
season  is  sufficiently  advanced,  be  planted  out  in  a  bed  of  rich  soil  at 
a  distance  of  fifteen  inches  apart  each  way  ;  and  then  if  kept  free  from 
weeds  and  watered  liberally  during  dry  weather  until  they  are  well 
established,  they  will  form  strong  crowns  for  forcing  the  following- 
season.  Those  forced  early  should  be  kept  in  a  cold  frame  until  the 
early  part  of  May,  which  is  the  earliest  moment  they  should  be  fully 
exposed  to  the  weather. 


HINTS  ON  GATHERING  FRUIT. 

IJOST  people  are  disposed  to  gather  the  autumn  fruits  too 
soon.  They  see  the  days  shortening,  they  hear  the  trees 
creaking  in  the  wind,  and  they  find  the  ground  strewed 
with  windfalls  ;  and  from  these  premises  they  jump  at 
the  conclusion  that  the  fruit  ought  to  be  gathered.  But  a 
certain  percentage  of  a  crop  may  fall,  from  various  causes,  before  the 
crop  is  ripe.  The  diseased  portion  will  lose  its  hold,  or  the  wind  may 
dislodge  what  is  sound,  long  before  the  portion  which  remains  firm  is 
fit  to  gather.  A  rule  is  generally  adopted  by  gardeners,  that  if  the 
pips  of  apples  or  pears  are  turning  brown,  the  crop  may  betaken; 
but  we  should  rather  say  that  a  decidedly  dark  and  settled  hue  of  the 
seed  is  a  safer- criterion.  As  to  the  objection  that  waiting  late  into 
the  autumn  causes  a  loss  of  the  fruit  by  falling,  it  has  little  weight, 
because  it  is  by  this  process  that  the  weaker  and  least  sound  fruit  is 
got  rid  of,  while  the  best  remains.  Taking  the  crop  too  early  will 
not  only  injure  the  good  fruit  by  causing  it  to  shrivel,  but  will  also 
render  frequent  removals  necessary  in  order  to  separate  from  the 
stock  the  rotten  ones,  which  would  of  themselves  have  fallen  from 
the  tree  if  more  time  had  been  given. 

A  most  important  matter  is  gathering  the  fruit  without  bruising 
it  in  the  slightest  degree.  Apples  and  pears  bought  in  the  market 
are  generally  much  specked,  by  which  their  beauty  is  spoiled ;  and 
most  of  this  is  occasioned  by  blows  received  both  in  gathering  and 
in  rolling  the  fruit  from  one  basket  to  another.  This  can  scarcely 
be  avoided  when  orcharding  is  carried  on  largely;  but  amateur 
gardeners  cannot  well  give  too  much  attention  to  gathering  their  fruit. 
We  find  a  coat  with  deep^  side-pockets  better  than  a  basket  hung  to 
the  ladder — the  usual  mode  of  gathering;  such  receptacles  are  quite 
under  command,  and  may  be  made  to  hold  a  good  deal. 

The  kind  of  weather  during  which  the  gathering  is  performed  is 
a  matter  of  importance;  The  trees  should  be  thoroughly  dry,  and 
a  vviudy  day  is-  to  be  chosen,  if  possible. 

A  Practical  Fruit- Grower. 


310  THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND   GARDEN   GUIDE. 

HYACINTHS    FOE    EXHIBITION. 

BY   ROBERT    OTJBRIBGE, 

Church  "Walk  Nursery,  Stoke  Newington. 

[N  the  cultivation  of  the  Hyacinth,  whether  for  exhibition 
or  conservatory  decoration,  the  bulbs  should  be  managed 
in  exactly  the  same  manner,  to  develope  the  flower 
spikes  to  the  fullest  extent  possible,  and  ensure  a  full 
return  for  the  outlay  incurred  in  the  purchase  of  the 
bulbs.  It  should  always  be  remembered  that  the  Dutch  put  the 
flower  spikes  into  the  bulbs,  and  all  that  the  cultivator  has  to 
do  is  to  bring  them  out,  and  therefore  the  necessary  attention 
should  be  paid  to  ensure  their  being  brought  out  in  the  best  possible 
manner. 

The  cultivation  of  the  Hyacinth  is  a  very  simple  matter,  as  will 
be  seen  by  the  directions  here  given,  which,  it  is  hardly  neces- 
sary to  say,  should  be  strictly  followed.  One  of  the  most  important 
points  is  to  select  hard,  sound,  well-ripened  bulbs,  for  the  fine  spikes 
of  bloom  cannot  be  had  from  those  soft  and  spongy,  even  if  they  are 
large  in  size. 

The  growth  must  be  prolonged  over  as  long  a  season  as  possible, 
and  consequently  early  potting  must  be  practised.  Pot  the  bulbs 
as  early  after  the  appearance  of  this  as  possible,  especially  if  they 
are  wanted  for  very  early  flowering,  and  have  to  be  forced.  This 
will  give  them  plenty  of  time  to  form  roots  and  get  well  established. 
When  this  is  accomplished  before  they  are  placed  in  the  warmth, 
there  will  be  little  danger  of  any  of  them  refusing  to  push  up  the 
spikes  at  the  proper  time.  Dumpiness  can  be  safely  attributed  to 
the  bulbs  not  being  properly  furnished  with  roots,  and  it  is  a  waste 
of  time  to  put  paper  caps  over  them  with  the  idea  of  drawing  the 
spikes  up.  The  fault  lies  with  the  roots,  and  if  they  are  all  right 
there  will  be  little  or  no  fear  of  a  failure.  Good  turfy-loam  and 
well-decayed  cow-dung,  at  the  rate  of  three  parts  loam  to  two  of 
manure,  chopped  up  roughly  and  mixed  with  a  sixth-part  of  silver- 
sand,  forms  a  capital  compost  for  hyacinths  as  well  as  other  bulbs. 

Use  six-inch  pots,  and  let  them  be  well  drained,  by  placing  a 
layer  of  crocks  in  the  bottom.  Put  one  bulb  in  each  pot ;  press  the 
soil  rather  firm  in  the  pots,  and  when  they  are  filled  to  within  an 
inch  of  the  rim,  insert  the  bulbs  and  fill  the  soil  firmly  about  them. 
The  neck  of  the  bulb  should  show  just  above  the  soil.  When  they 
are  simply  placed  on  the  surface  with  a  little  loose  soil  about  them, 
the  weight  of  the  spike  will  probably  topple  them  over.  The  sod 
should  be  used  in  a  moderately  moist  condition,  and  then  no  water- 
ing will  be  necessary  until  they  come  from  the  plunge  beds.  When 
all  are  potted,  make  up  a  good  bed  of  coal-ashes  through  which  the 
worms  cannot  penetrate,  and  stand  the  pots  upon  it.  This  done,  turn 
a  small  sixty-pot  over  each  bulb,  and  cover  with  coal-ashes,  spent 
hops,  or  cocoa-nut-fibre  refuse,  to  the  depth  of  six  or  eight  iuches. 
Here  they  should  remain  for  five  or  six  weeks,  and  then  be  brought  into 


THE    FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE.  311 

the  forcing-house  as  wanted.  The  young  growth  must  be  inured  to 
the  light  in  a  gradual  manner,  and  the  plants  kept  near  the  glass. 
After  they  are  well  started  into  growth,  water  liberally,  and  let  them 
have  a  breath  of  fresh  air  during  the  warmest  part  of  the  day  ;  but 
it  must  be  admitted  without  chilling  the  tender  growth. 

The  bulbs  must  not  be  left  in  the  .plunge  bed  long  enough  for 
the  foliage  to  grow  long  and  become  blanched.  Therefore,  when 
the  flowers  are  not  wanted  until  late  in  the  spring,  lift  them  out  of 
the  plunging  material  and  place  them  in  a  .cold  frame  or  pit,  where 
light  and  air  will  have  free  access  to  them.  Those  for  early  flower- 
ing must  not  be  exposed  to  too  great  a  heat,  or  the  flower-spikes  and 
foliage  will  be  drawn  up  weak  and  spindly  ;  and  at  all  times  keep  as 
close  to  the  glass  as  possible,  because  neat,  properly-developed 
foliage  that  will  maintain  an  erect  position  without  support  is  nearly 
of  as  much  importance  as  good  spikes  of  flowers,  and  will  tell  with 
equal  eflect  in  competitive  groups. 


Do  Plants  absorb  Moisture  through  thetr  Leaves  ? — Two  French 
botanists,  Prillieux  and  Duchartre,  have  recently  turned  their  attention  to  this 
question,  and  their  experiments  lead  to  the  conclusion  that  it  must  be  answered, 
contrary  to  the  belief  of  all  the  older  botanists,  in  the  negative.  M.  Duchartre's 
experiments  were  made  for  the  most  part  on  epiphytes,  plants  having  no  direct 
communication  with  the  soil,  and  which  are  yet  found  to  contain  potash,  soda, 
alumina,  and  other  ingredients  which  plants  whose  roots  grow  in  the  earth  derive 
from  that  source.  It  these  plants  derive  their  sustenance  from  the  moist  vapour 
by  which  they  are  surrounded,  it  is  difficult  to  understand  how  they  can  procure 
these  materials.  But  if  they  absorb  not  aqueous  vapour,  but  water  itself,  we  can  at 
once  account  for  the  possession  of  these  inorganic  materials.  To  ascertain  how 
far  this  conclusion  is  just,  M.  Duchartre  placed  several  of  these  epiphytes,  provided 
with  their  aerial  roots,  in  closed  vessels  filled  with  muist  vapour;  the  result  was  to 
confirm  the  observation  of  Prillieux,  that  under  these  circumstances  the  plants  lost 
weight.  If,  however,  from  any  cause  the  plants  came  into  contact  with  liquid 
water,  it  was  absorbed  readily,  and  the  plants  increased  in  weight.  When  leaves, 
flaccid  from  undue  evaporation,  are  suspended  in  moist  air,  they  recover  their  fresh- 
ness, though  they  do  not  gain  in  weight;  hence  the  inference  is  drawn  that  the 
renewed  vitality  of  the  leaves  is  due,  not  to  the  absorption  of  vapour,  but  to  the 
transference  of  fluid  from  one  portion  of  the  branch  to  another.  When  leaves,  how- 
ever, are  actually  plunged  in  liquid  water  for  a  considerable  time,  ttiey  do  absorb 
it  in  considerable  quantities.    * 

Self-Fertilization  a>d  Cross-Fertilization  of  Plants. — Mr.  A.  W.  Ben- 
nett reports  in  the  Journal  of  Botany  for  October  a  series  of  observations  on  this 
subject.  He  states  that  there  are  now  known  to  be  three  modes  by  which  cross- 
fertilization  is  especially  favoured:: — the  phenomena  of  dimorphism  and  trimorphism, 
to  which  Mr.  Darwin  has  called  attention  ;  special  contrivances  for  effecting  the 
transference  of  pollen  by  insects  from  one  flower  to  another  ;  and  the  fact,  which 
has  not  yet  received  so  much  attention,  that  in  the  same  flower  the  pistil  and 
stamens  frequently  arrive  at  maturity  at  different  times.  By  observing  a  number  of 
British  plants,  he  Iihs  come  to  the  conclusion  that  the  most  usual  order  is  for  the 
stamens  to  ripen  before  the  pistil  (protandry) ::  the  simultaneous  maturing  of  the 
two  organs  (s\  naciue)  is  nearly  equally  common  :  while  the  ripening  of  the  pistil 
before  the  stamens  (protogyny)  is  far  more  rare.  Although  protandry  and  protogyny 
do  not,  in  most  cases,  actually  foibid  the  possibility  of  self-fertilization,  they  render 
cross-fertilization  far  more  likely.  The  most  striking  contrast  was  found  to  exist 
between  the  common  harebell  (Campanula  rotundifolia),  in  which  the  pollen  is 
discharged  and  the  anthers  wither  up  long  before  the  stigmata  are  developed ;  and 
the  Scrophularia  aguatica,  in  which  the  pistil  is  mature  very  much  earlier  than  the 
stamens. 


312  THE    FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 


HORTICULTURAL  NOTES. 

HE  exhibition  of  the  Metropolitan  Floral  Society  at  the 
Crystal  Palace,  August  30th  and  31st,  and  the  Meeting 
of  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society,  September  6th,  are 
the  only  occurrences  worthy  of  notice  here.  There  was 
a  decided  falling  off  in  the  exhibition  of  the  first-men- 
tioned society,  which  in  some  measure  was  no  doubt  due  to  the 
unfavourable  character  of  the  weather  experienced  during  the  early 
part  of  the  summer.  The  last-mentioned  meeting  was  remarkable 
for  the  large  number  of  new  Dahlias  exhibited. 

The  chief  features  of  the  exhibition  at  the  Crystal  Palace, 
August  30th  and  31st,  were  the  Dahlias,  Hollyhocks,  Gladioli, 
Asters  and  dinner-table  decorations ;  a  few  good  stands  of  roses 
were  staged,  but  the  season  was  too  far  advanced  for  them  to  be 
presented  in  a  condition  to  add  much  to  the  general  effect  of  the 
exhibition. 

The  best  Show  Dahlias  staged  in  the  several  stands  were  Emperor, 
Memorial,  Flambeau,  Miss  Roberts,  Mr.  Dix,  Delicata,  Hugh  Miller, 
Toison  d'Or,  James  Grieve,  James  Backhouse,  John  Dunnington, 
John  Kirby,  Lady  Gladys  Herbert,  James  Bennett,  Mrs.  Dorling, 
Flag  of  Truce,  Lady  Derby,  Golden  Engle,  Charles  Backhouse, 
Golden  Gem,  Sir  G.  Smythe,  Hebe,  Lord  Derby,  Adonis,  Commander, 
Miss  Henshaw,  Paradise  Williams,  Lady  Jane  Ellis,  Criterion,  Mrs. 
"Wellesley,  Golden  Drop,  Eclipse,  Yellow  Perfection,  Juliana,  Netty 
Buckle,  Gipsy  King,  Chairman,  Octoroon,  Royalty,  Harriett  Tetterell, 
Annie  Neville,  Indian  Ohief,  Julia  Wyatt,  Lothair,  Leah,  Vice- 
Pi'esident,  Mrs.  Thornill,  Queen  of  Beauties,  James  Cocker,  Queen 
of  Primroses,  Lightning,  Royalty,  Grand  Sultan,  Juno,  Artemus 
Ward,  Prince  of  Prussia,  James  Hunter,  Miss  Nilsson,  Mr.  Dix, 
Mrs.  Bolton,  Monarch,  Miss  Henshaw,  Earl  Pembroke,  Mrs. 
Dodds,  Mr.  Wyndham,  James  Hayward,  Mary  Keynes,  Amy 
Creed,  Edward  Spary,  W.  Lucas,  Marchioness  of  Bath,  Vice- 
President,  Queen  of  Beauties,  George  Wheeler,  John  Neville. 

The  best  of  the  fancy  varieties  staged  were  Grand  Sultan,  Queen 
of  Spots,  Miss  Wilson,  Leopardess,  John  Salter,  Hero  of  York, 
Fanny  Sturt,  Artemus  Ward,  Mr.  Wickham,  Miss  Annie,  Bessie 
Wyatt,  Pauline,  Viceroy,  Butterfly,  Attraction,  Mrs.  Bunn,  Sam 
Bartlett,  John  Sealey,  Richard  Dean,  Flora  Wyatt,  Lightning, 
Prince  of  Wales,  Monarch,  Ebor,  Annie  Purchas,  Master  Johnny, 
Octoroon,  Chang,  Leopard,  Sparkler,  Queen  Mab,  Galatea,  Pluto, 
Coquette,  and  Gem  of  Roses. 

Hollyhocks  were  not  shown  largely,  but  both  spikes  and  blooms 
were  very  fine.  In  the  class  for  six  spikes,  the  best  spikes  shown 
were  those  of  Alba  Snperba,  Midnight,  Walden  Primrose,  Fair  Helen, 
Queen  of  Yellows,  Carus  Chater,  Peri,  Whitby  King,  Willingham, 
Defiance,  Coronet,  Cygnet,  and  Prince  Alfred.  The  finest  cut  blooms 
were  those  of  Prince  Albert,  Champion,  Juno,  Coronet,  Purity, 
Triumph,  Marvellous,  Scarlet  Gem,  Edward  Speed,  Eclipse,  Fred 
Chater,  Majestic,  Hercules,  Walden  King,  Sanspareil,  Alfred  Chater, 


THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  313 

Conquest,  Walden  Primrose,  Carus  Chater,  Purity,  Leviathan.  Arch- 
bishop, Standard  Bearer  Groldfinder,  Leah,  Lord  Napier,  and  Exhi- 
bitor. 

The  finest  stand  of  Gladioli  was  that  contributed  by  Messrs. 
Kelway  &  Son,  Langport,  in  which  occurred  magnificent  spikes  of 
Madame  Desportes,  Lord  Poltimore,  Victory,  Piccioli,  Glow,  Estella, 
Celebrity,  Eugene  Scribe,  Florence,  Monarch,  Phoenix,  Emmeline, 
Pretender,  Felix,  Meyerbeer,  Le  Proges,  Mathilde  Landevoisin, 
Etendard,  Lucius,  Belle  Gabrielle,  Splendour,  Lacepede,  Distinction, 
Day  Dream,  Mrs.  Owen,  Climax,  Norma,  Emblematic,  Sir  Thomas 
Symons,  Armide,  and  Moliere. 

Some  seedling  Hollyhocks  were  shown.  The  best  were  : — From 
Mr.  "Wheeler,  of  Warminster :  Lady  Herbert,  large,  finely  formed, 
clear  pinky  flesh.  Royal  Prince ;  colour,  rich  ruby-red.  Fallax,  ruby- 
red,  one  shade  deeper  than  Royal  Prince.  From  Mr.  W.  Chater, 
Saffron  Walden :  Prince  Albert,  a  fine  flower  of  the  grandest 
character  ;  large,  closely  packed,  the  colour  pale  cream,  dashed  with 
warm  flesh  ;  quite  an  acquisition.  Walden  King,  a  good  deep  ruby- 
red.  From  Mr.  J.  J.  Chater,  Cambridge :  Bismarck,  a  novel  flower. 
Peerless,  pinky  buff.  Albert  Memorial  ;  colour,  ruby-red.  Lady 
Beaconsfield  Improved,  .delicate  fresh  carmine-pink.  From  Mr.  B. 
Porter,  gardener  to  Mrs.  Benham,  Isleworth  :  Lady  HawJee,  rich 
rosy  pink.  From  Messrs.  Kelway  and  Son,.  Langport :  Lord  Hawhe ; 
colour,  pure  pink. 

Amongst  the  new  Dahlias  occurred — from  Mr.  C.  Turner,  Slough  : 
Mrs.  Saunders,  delicately  tinted  with  white  on  a  pale  yellow  ground ; 
Golden  Ball,  a  curious  shade  of  buff-orange  ;  Bob,  reddish  buff; 
Sybil,  delicate  lilac;  H.  G.  Quilter,  dull  buff,  centre  purplish.  From 
Mr.  G.  S.  P.  Harris :  Flower  of  Kent,  colour  clear  canary  yellow ; 
J'lirilij,  delicately  tipped  rosy  lilac  on  a  ground  of  blush;  Cherub, 
colour  buff.  From  Mr.  Wheeler,  of  Warminster  :  Hogarth,  clear 
buff.     Sylph,  bright  lilac  tipped. 

Mr.  Eckford,  of  Coleshill,  the  raiser  of  the  varieties  figured  in 
the  Floral  Would  for  last  March,  sent  a  remarkably  fine  lot  of 
new  Verbenas,  the  best  of  which  were  British  Queen,  a  fine  large 
flower  of  a  delicate  pinkish-white  colour  slightly  suffused  with  palest 
pink  ;  Pluto,  dazzling  vermilion-scarlet  passing  into  fiery  crimson, 
HercAiles,  clear  claret ;  Miss  F.  Bouverie,  deep  mauvy  pink ;  Master 
Mark,  with  carmine  shade  ;  Captain,  rich  soft  purplish  pink  ;  Lady 
Edith,  French  white  with  pink  centre;  Acme,  deep  reddish  pink; 
Isa  Brunton,  fine  claret  purple  ;  Memorial,  salmon-pink  shaded  with 
carmine,  yellow  eye ;  Lady.  Gertrude,  pale  lilac  with  carmine  eye. 

In  the  stands  of  Gladioli,  staged  by  Messrs.  Kelway  &  Son  and 
Mr.  Douglas,  were  several  fine  seedlings.  From  the  former,  Victory, 
orange-red  with  bluish  feather,  fine  and  distinct  ;  Gloio-worm,  orange- 
scarlet,  with  yellow  blotch  on  lower  petal  ;  very  brilliant ;  Felix,  liomt 
scarlet,  feathered  purple  and  white  ;  Magnificent,  very  brilliant 
scarlet  with  maroon  feather ;  grand  ;  Lucius,  reddish  orange  with 
light  purple  feather ;  and  Fairy  Bells,  salmon-pink,  purple  feather; 
and  Sylvia,  reddish  scarlet,  feathered  with  purple,  and  white  stripe 
down  the  centre  of  each  petal,  from  the  latter,  were,  remarkably  good. 


314  THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 

The  best  of  the  new  Dahlias  exhibited  at  the  meeeting  of  the 
Royal  Horticultural  Society  were — From  Mr.  Charles  Turner  :  Kate 
Haslam,  bright  rose  pink,  large,  full,  and  fine ;  Souvenir  d'Herbert 
Turner,  sulphur,  changing  to  French  white ;  John  Standish,  deep 
bright  crimson ;  Mrs.  Maunders,  yellow  tipped  with  white ;  Mrs. 
Waite,  delicate  rose.  From  Mr.  G.  Parker:  Lady  Herschal,  creamy 
white,  heavily  tipped  with  bright  carmine.  From  Mr.  G.  Rawlings, 
Old  Church,  Romford.:  Maid  of  Essex,  white  tipped  with  rosy  purple. 
From  Mr.  Lidgard,  Hammersmith  :  Model,  a  bedding  variety,  with 
very  large  flowers  of  a  deep  crimson  hue.  From  Mr.  J.  Keynes, 
Salisbury:  Dolly  Varden,  creamy  pink,  lightly  flaked  with  purple; 
William  Keynes,  bright  scarlet;  Marchioness  of  Lome,  light  yellow 
tipped  with  rose  ;    William  Laird,  light  rose. 

New  Verbenas  were  contributed  by  Mr.  C.  J.  Perry  and  Mr. 
Eckford.  The  most  promising  from  Mr.  Perry  were  Sunbeam,  deep 
crimson  scarlet;  Distinction,  large,  blush-white,  purplish-rose  centre  ; 
Evening  Star,  white,  carmine  eye ;  Sprite,  white,  large  pink  centre  ; 
Coronation,  blush,  heavily  striped  with  crimson ;  Pink  Queen,  deep 
carmine,  lemon  eye;  Nelly  Mole,  white,  rose  centre;  Gem,  light 
blush,  deep  rose-carmine  centre  ;  and  Emma  Weaver,  blush-rose, 
carmine  centre.  The  best  from  Mr.  Eckford  were  Purple  Gem,  deep 
bluish  purple,  likely  to  be  a  grand  bedder  ;  The  Ron.  Frank,  deep 
pink  self;  IsaBrunton,  purple  maroon,  large  white  eye,  fine;  Sandy, 
orange-red  self;  Acme,  pink  self;  Captain,  orange-scarlet;  Crown 
Jewel,  white  ;  Lady  Gertrude,  lavender,  purple  ring  round  the  eye ; 
Kingcraft,  deep  crimson,  white  eye  ;  and  Pluto  and  Lady  Edith, 
described  above. 

Mr.  Pearson,  Chilwell,  exhibited  several  new  grapes,  the  best  of 
whicli  was  Dr.  Royg,  a  white  variety  in  the  way  *>1  Foster's  Seedling, 
but  better  in  every  way.  The  vine  ha3  a  stronger  constitution,  and 
the  flavour  is  much  richer.;  altogether  it  is  a  very  valuable  addition 
to  the  list  of  white  grapes.  G.  G. 


Colossal  Asparagus. — Mr.  Peter  Henderson,  an  American  citizen  of  New 
Jersey,  claims  in  the  Press  to  having  at  last  found  a  distinct  variety  of  Asparagus. 
Previously  he  had  repeatedly  contended  that  all  the  so-called  varieties  were  merely 
differences  produced  by  culture,  soil,  and  climate.  The  new  variety  was  grown  with 
the  ordinary  kind,  both  having  beun  planted  in  the  spring  of  1868,  each  being  then 
one  year  from  the  seed,  and  both  grown  to  a  large  extent  in  a  market  garden  in 
Long  Island.  The  soil  was  examined,  and  found  to  be  as  nearly  the  same  as  it 
could  well  be,  yet  the  two  beds  of  Asparagus  showed  a  difference  that  left  no  longer 
a  shadow  of  a  doubt  of  their  being  entirely  distinct  varieties.  Jn  the  old  variety  he 
found  no  shoot  thicker  than  one  inch  in  diameter,  and  averaging  20  shoots  to  a  hill, 
while  in  the  colossal  many  shoots  were  found  1^  inch  in  diameter,  and  averaging  35 
shoots  to  a  hill — an  enormous  growth  when  it  is  remembered  that  the  plant  was 
only  three  years  from  the  seed.  The  .mode  of  cultivation  is  very  like  the  French 
one — the  rows  being  six.  feet  apart,  and  the  plants  four  feet  apart  in  the  row.  'Ihe 
average  clear  profit  annually  on  the  old  sort  is  estimated  to  be  over  £56  per  acre, 
and  over  £87  per  acre  on  the  new  ;  but  some  growers  in  the  same  region  estimate 
their  profits  on  Asparagus  at  nearly  double  these  rates  ;  and  it  is  expected  that  it 
will  soon  prove  a  very  valuable  crop  to  be  raised  in  the  Southern  States  for  the  early 
supply  of  the  Northern  markets. 


THE    FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  315 


THE  GARDEN  GUIDE  FOR  OCTOBER. 

Elower  Garden. — After  the  middle  of  the  month  the  summer 
bedders  have  such  a  wretched  appearance,  that  the  sooner  they  are 
cleared  off  after  that  time  the  better.  Where  spring  gardening  is 
carried  out,  the  beds  ought  to  be  cleared  soon,  and  then  filled  with 
the  plants  for  spring  flowering.  This  is  necessary  to  enable  them 
to  make  a  fresh  growth,  and  get  established  in  their  new  quarters 
before  the  weather  gets  too  cold,  and  stops  their  progress.  A  good 
display  of  spring  flowers  can  be  got  up  for  such  a  trifling  amount 
of  skill  and  labour,  that  no  flower-garden  ought  to  be  bare  of  flower- 
ing plants  during  April  and  May.  The  best  things  for  spring 
bedding  are  Silene,  Wallflowers,  Forget-me-nots,  Arabis,  Alyssum, 
Aubrietias,  Pansies,  and  Iberis,  and  spring  bulbs.  Good  selections 
of  the  cheapest  and  best  bulbs  for  the  open  border  are  given 
on  another  page,  therefore  nothing  further  need  be  said  about 
them  here.  The  late  Tulips  must  not  be  planted  until  next 
month,  and  the  Anemones  and  Rauunculuses  are  as  well  out  of  the 
ground  until  next  February.  Both  these  subjects  prefer  well- 
pulverized  soil,  and  the  beds  which  they  are  intended  to  occupy 
ought  to  be  dug  over  at  once,  and  the  surface  left  rough,  to  give 
the  weather  greater  power  to  act  upon  it.  Plant  every  kind  of 
hardy  herbaceous  plant  from  the  cutting-pot  or  seed-bed.  Take  up 
and  pot  all  zonate  and  variegated  geraniums  which  are  intended  to 
be  preserved  during  the  winter,  for  they  seldom  do  much  good  after 
exposure  to  several  sharp  frosts.  The  dead  foliage  can  be  removed ; 
but  avoid  breaking  or  cutting  the  branches,  as  spring  is  the  best 
time  for  pruning  them.  Place  under  shelter,  and  protect  from  frost; 
but  at  all  other  times  ventilate  freely,  and  give  little  water  until  the 
turn  of  the  winter,  when  they  will  be  established  in  the  soil. 
Securely  stake  Chrysanthemums  both  in  pots  and  the  open  borders, 
to  prevent  injury  from  winds.  Tie  out  in  a  natural  manner,  and 
avoid  the  wretched  system  of  using  one  stake,  and  tying  all  the 
growth  into  a  bundle  round  it.  Take  up  Dahlia  tubers  as  soon  as 
the  tops  are  dead,  and  spread  them  out  separately  in  a  cool  dry  place 
to  get  thoroughly  dry  before  storing  for  the  winter.  This  important 
point  is  frequently  lost  sight  of,  and  a  mass  of  rotten  pulp  in  the 
spring  is  the  consequent  result.  It  is  also  necessary  to  protect  from 
frost,  by  covering  them  with  dry  hay  or  litter  in  severe  weather. 
The  planting  of  deciduous  trees  and  shrubs  must  be  pushed  on 
vigorously,  and  if  done  carefully,  all  moderate-sized  specimens  will 
scarcely  feel  the  shift.  This  is  also  a  good  time  for  transplanting 
evergreens,  if  not  done  as  advised  early  in  the  autumn. 

Kitchen  Garden. — Much  anxiety  and  disappointment  might 
be  avoided  during  the  summer,  if  proper  care  and  attention  were 
paid  to  this  department  at  this  season.  Trench  and  ridge  up  all 
vacant  quarters  that  are  not  to  be  occupied  during  the  winter.  This 
will  give  the  soil,  brought  up  from  the  bottom  of  the  trench,  ample 
opportunities  to  be  thoroughly  pulverized.  Where  the  second  spit 
is  unfit  for  bringing  to  the  top,  open  out  a  trench  in  the  ordinary 


316  THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

way ;  but  simply  break  it  up,  and  leave  it  in  the  bottom  of  the 
trench.  Remove  stems  of  Asparagus,  dress  the  beds  with  rotten 
manure,  and  cover  with  a  few  inches  of  soil  from  between  the  alleys. 
Capsicums  and  Tomatoes,  still  unripe,  must  be  gathered  and  laid 
out  singly  in  a  dry  room  or  warm  greenhouse  to  ripen.  Take  up  and 
store  Carrots,  Beet,  and  Potatoes  ;  the  Parsnips  are  as  well  lefc  in  the 
ground  for  the  present,  but  on  the  approach  of  severe  frost  it  is  well 
to  lift  a  few  for  immediate  use.  Lettuce  and  Endive  fit  for  use 
must  either  be  lifted  and  laid  in  by  their  heels,  or  be  protected  from 
frost  and  damp  with  hand-glasses,  ground  vineries,  or  cloches.  Tie 
up  successional  batches,  and  choose  a  dry  day  for  the  operation. 
Towards  the  end  of  the  month  is  a  capital  time  for  making  fresh 
plantations  of  Rhubarb.  Let  the  ground  be  well  manured  and 
trenched,  and  a  moist  situation  selected  if  possible. 

Fruit  Garden. — Raspberries,  and  Currant  and  Gooseberry 
bushes,  may  be  planted  towards  the  end  of  the  month,  and  cuttings 
of  the  last  two-named  fruits  struck  if  desirable.  Remove  the  eyes 
that  will  be  below  the  surface,  and  open  out  a  trench  six  inches 
deep,  and  lay  the  cuttings  in  at  a  distance  of  four  inches  apart,  and 
fill  in,  and  tread  the  soil  firm.  Gather  Apples  and  Pears  as  fast  as 
they  are  sufficiently  advanced.  Keep  the  early  and  late  ripening 
varieties  as  far  apart  as  practicable,  to  prevent  the  exhalations 
arising  from  the  former  interfering  with  the  keeping  qualities  of  the 
latter.  Trench  and  prepare  fruit  borders  for  planting  as  soon  as 
possible,  so  that  there  may  be  no  loss  of  time  in  planting  the  trees.. 

Greenhouse. — House  at  once  every  description  of  plants  re- 
quiring shelter  under  glass  during  the  winter.  This  is  particularly 
necessary  in  the  case  of  Azaleas,  Camellias,  Epacris,  and  other  hard- 
wooded  plants,  or  the  heavy  rains  will  drench  the  soil  and  do  an 
immense  amount  of  injury,  by  saturating  the  soil  at  a  time  when  the 
plants  are  unable  to  absorb  it.  Sudden  changes  must  be  avoided, 
aud  all  the  air  possible  must  be  admitted  in  favourable  weather. 
The  stock  of  Gauntlet  Pelargonium,  if  well  established,  and  now 
jjlaced  in  a  genial  growing,  temperature  of  55°,  and  kept  near  the 
glass,  will  maintain  a  supply  of  cut  flowers  throughout  the  winter.. 
The  plants  must  be  strong  and  well-rooted,  or  it  will  be  a  waste  of 
time  to  force  them.  Shift  the  earliest  batch  of  show  Pelargoniums 
into  pots  ODe  size  larger,  and  keep  the  whole  of  the  stock  near  the- 
glass,  and  free  from  insect  pests  and  mildew.  Eumigate  with  tobacco, 
or  tobacco-paper,  or  dust  with  tobacco  powder,,  on  the  first  appear- 
ance of  green-fly  or  thrip,  and  dust  with  sulphur  immediately  mildew 
begins  to  develope  itself.  Cinerarias  and  Herbaceous  Calceolarias 
will  require  the  same  treatment  in  this  respect.  Primulas  for  early 
flowering  will  be  materially  benefited  by  being  placed  in  a  genial 
growing  temperature  of  503,  later  batches  will  make  good  progress 
in  a  temperature  five  degrees  lower  :  avoid  a  damp  atmosphere. 
Dry  off  Cannas  and  Fuchsias  ready  for  wintering  in  a  dry  outhouse, 
where  they  can  be  securely  protected  from  frost.  In  case  of  a  spell 
of  damp  weather  towards  the  end  of  the  month,  apply  a  little  fire- 
heat,  early  in  the  day,  to.  dry  up  the  dampness,;and  change  the  air 
within  the  house.. 


THE    FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  317 

Stove. —All  except  the  winter-flowering  plants  will  have  com- 
pleted their  growth,  and,  therefore,  require  less  heat  and  moisture 
than  hitherto.  Euphorbias,  Thyrsacanthus,  Poinsettias,  flowering 
Begonias,  Luculias,  and  Gesneras,  must  have  every  encouragement 
to  enable  them  to  complete  their  growth  quickly.  The  temperature 
of  the  orchid-house  must  also  be  considerably  reduced,  and  Cattleyas 
and  Dendrobes  have  very  little  water. 

Forcing. — Pines  swelling  their  fruit  require  plenty  of  moisture, 
and  a  close  warm  corner ;  but  those  just  ripening  require  a  light 
open  position,  with  plenty  of  air  to  develope  the  flavour.  There  will 
be  some  difficulty  in  complying  with  the  requirements  of  both  in 
the  same  house  ;  but  much  may  be  done  by  judicious  arrangement. 
Grapes  that  are  to  hang  for  any  length  of  time  must  be  kept  dry 
and  cool,  therefore  all  plants  underneath  must  be  removed,  and  a 
little  fire-heat  used  in  damp  weather.  The  house  must  not,  how- 
ever, be  overheated,  or  the  berries  will  shrivel.  Open  the  ventilators 
aa  wide  as  possible,  in  peach  and  orchard-houses,  at  all  times,  unless 
they  are  used  for  protecting  bedding  and  other  plants ;  in  that  case, 
take  advantage  of  every  favourable  opportunity  for  air-giving.  See 
to  inside  borders,  and  water  if  necessary.  Of  course  the  soil  must 
not  be  kept  so  wet  as  when  the  trees  are  in  full  growth  ;  but  if 
allowed  to  get  dust-dry,  the  buds  will  drop  off  wholesale  directly 
•the  trees  begin  tc  start  into  growth  in  the  spring.  Strawberries 
intended  for  forcing  must  be  protected  from  the  heavy  rains.  A 
cold  frame  or  orchard-house  is  the  best  place  for  them  after  the  end 
of  the  month.  Laying  the  pots  on  their  sides,  one  above  the  other, 
so  as  to  form  a  ridge,  is  also  a  capital  plau  for  dealing  with  them 
when  house  or  frame  room  is  scarce. 

Pits  and  Frames. — Give  plenty  of  air  to  bedding  stuff,  and 
pot  up  geraniums  struck  in  the  open  border,  before  they  get  too 
firmly  established,  or  be  caught  by  the  frost.  They  can  be  potted 
either  singly,  or  three  in  each  three-inch  pot.  The  last-mentioned 
;plan  is  the  best,  because  when  they  are  potted  off  singly  they  start 
.away,  and  grow  vigorously  up  to  the  time  of  their  being  turned  out 
into  their  summer  quarters.  Auriculas  and  Pansies  must  have  plenty 
of  air,  and  careful  watering,  in  fine  open  weather  draw  the  lights  off 
entirely,  but  on  no  account  must  the  stock  be  exposed  to  rains. 
Keep  a  sharp  look-out  for  mildew  and  green-fly,  and  dust  with 
sulphur  for  the  former,  and  fumigate  for  the  latter. 


Gleichenia  Cultube. — The  splendid  ferns  of  this  magnificent  family 
require  careful  management  when  young,  and  it  is  desirable  to  give  them  as  much 
warmth  as  they  will  bear  without  becoming  rusty.  The  soil  should  be  good  turfy 
peat  in  a  rather  lumpy  state,  with  quite  a  fourth  part  of  silver  sand  and  finely-broken 
charcoal  added.  The  drainage  of  the  pots  sbould  be  perfect  and  the  plants  should 
always  be  grown  in  as  small-sized  pots  as  possible,  overpotting  being  carefully 
avoided.  Several  of  the  new  species  thrive  in  the  greenhouse  if  taken  care  of,  but 
such  as  G.  dichotoma,  G.  furcata,  and  G.  pubescens  require  the  stove. 


318 


THE    FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 


GER-P8ST  F6R  PURCHASERS 

OP  PIJOTS,  SEEDS,  ETC, 

SELECTION  OF  THE  BEST  HYACINTHS; 
ETC.,  FOR' CONSERVATORY  DECORATION. 
AND  EXHIBITION. 

A    SELECTION    OF    THIRTY-SIX    CHEAP    HYACINTHS 
FOR    THE    CONSERVATORY   AND   FLOWER-GARDEN. 

As  the  single  varieties  are  far  superior  to 
the  double,  twelve  only  of  the  latter  will  be 
named,   and  all  the  remainder  will  be  single. 
Double     Red  —  Alida    Catheriua,     Bouquet 
(S^S"1"  Tendre,    Princess  Royal,   Waterloo.     Double 

White — A-la-mode,  Miss  Kitty,  Prince  of  Waterloo.  Double  Blue — 
Blocksberg,  Grande  Vedette,  Lord  Wellington.  Double  Yellow — 
Bouquet  d'Orange.  Sing'e  Red — Ampbion,  Amy,  Diebitsch  Sabal- 
skanki,  L'Ami  du  Cceur,  Lord  Wellington,  Madame  Hodgson,  Norma,  Robert 
Sfei<rer,  Veronica.  Single  White  —  Alba  Superbissima,  Grandeur  a  Merveille, 
GianI  Vainqueur,  Grande  Vedette,  La  Candeur,  Mirandoline,  Queen  Victoria. 
Single  Blue — Baron  Von  Tuyll,  Charles  Dickens,  Grand  Lilas,  Couronne  de  Celle, 
Mimo-i,  Orondatus,  Prince  Albert.     Single  Yellow — Alida  Jacoba,  Heroine. 

SELECTION    OF    THIRTY-SIX    HYACINTHS    FOR    EXHIBITION. 

(Double  varieties  marked  thus  *.) 

Porcelain  Blue — Blocksberg,*  Grand  Lilas,  Grand  Vedette,  Van  Speyk.*  Blue 
Shades — Argus,  Baron  Von  Tuyll,  Charles  Dickens,  Garrick.*  Black — General 
Havelock,  Laurens  Koster.*  Pure  White—  Alba  Maxima,  Grand  Vainquer,  Madame 
Van  der  Hoop,  Mont  Blanc,  Snowball,  Prince  of  Waterloo,*  Queen  of  the  Nether- 
lands. Blush — Bouquet  Royale,*  Emmeline,  Norma,  Tubirlora.  Dark  Red  and 
Crimson— Lord  Macaulay,  Mrs.  Beecher  Stowe,  Robert  Steiger,  Solfaterre,  Von 
Schiller.  Rose  and  Pink — Cavaignac,  Madame  Hodgson,  Queen  Victoria,  Princess 
Royal*,  Ornement  de  la  Nature.  Mauve  and  Lilac—  Haydn,*  L'TJnique.  Orange 
Due  de  Malakoff.      Yellow — Alida  Jacoba,  Ida. 

SELECTION    OF   THIRTY   TULIPS    FOR   THE    CONSERVATORY. 

Ten  Double-floivering  Varieties — Belle  Alliance,  Couronne  des  Roses,  Gris  Delria> 
La  Candeur,  Murillo,  Due  Van  Tholl,  Lord  Wellington,  Rex  Rubrorum,  Toumesoi. 
Yellow  Rose. 

Twenty  Single-flowering  Varieties. — Bride  of  Haarlem,  Canary  Bird,  Cottage 
Maid,  Couleur  Cardinal,  Duchesse  de  Parma,  Golden  Prince,  Joost  Van  Vondel, 
Keizerkroon,  La  Belle  Alliance,  La  Plaisante,  Moliere,  Yellow  Pottebakker,  White 
ditto,  Scarlet  ditto,  Proserpine,  Rose  Aplatis,  Rose  Luisante,  Vermilion  Brilliant, 
and  Thomas  Moore. 

EIGHTEEN    EARLY-FLOWERING    TULIPS    FOR     THE   FLOWER-GARDEN. 

Double — Due  Van  Thol,  Duke  of  York,  Gloria  Solis,  Imperator  Rubrorum,  La 
Candeur,  Rex  Rubrorum,  Rose  Eclante,  Tournsol,  Yellow  Rose.  Single— Bride  of 
Haarlem,  Brutus,  Canary  Bird,  Cottage  Maid,  Duchesse  de  Parma,  Keizerkroon, 
Thomas  Moore,  Yellow  Prince. 

SELECTION    OF    SIX    NARCISSI. 

Bazelman  Major,  Grand  Monarque,  Grand  Solail  d'Or,  Czar  of  Russia,  Queen 
Victoria,  and  States-General. 

SELECTION    OF    TWELVE    VARIETIES    OF    CROCUS    FOR    POT-CULTUBE. 

Albion,  Aletta,  Wilhelmina,  Argus,  Comtesse  de  Moray,  La  M;ijestuiu;e,  La 
Tour  d'Auvergne,  Sir  John  Franklin,  Ne  Plus  Ultra,  Prince  Albert,  iSir  Walter 
Scott,  and  New  Golden  Yellow. 


THE    FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  319 


TO   CORRESPONDENTS. 

Thrips  or  Achtmenes. —  V.  Y. — The  leaves  are  infested  with  tlirip  through 
having  been  prown  in.  too  dry  an  atmosphere.  They  have  been  exposed  to  the  sun, 
for  some  of  the  leaves  are  partly  burnt.  These  plants  require  a  moist  atmosphere 
when  growing,  and  plenty  of  shade  in  bright  weather.  When  in  bloom,  cool, 
shaded,  and  a  liberal  amount  of  water,  is  best  for  prolonging  the  beauty  of  the  flowers. 
The  best  advice  that  we  can  give  you  is  to  dry  them  off  gradually,  and  burn  the 
dead  stems  and  foliage  when  they  are  cut  away  from  the  bulbs. 

Propagating  Boxes. — Constant  Reader. — It  is  a  bad  plan  to  have  boxes  for 
striking  cuttings  too  large.  A  good  size  is  3  feet  long,  15  inche's  wide,  and  4  inches 
in  depth  ;  9|-inch  board  will  make  capital  boxes,  and  there  will  be  very  little  waste 
in  cutting  them  up  for  boxe9  of  the  above-mentioned  size.  If  the  joints  fit  close 
together,  bore  a  few  holes  in  the  bottom  to  allow  the  free  escape  of  the  water. 
These  boxes  will  be  invaluable  for  pricking  off  all  kinds  of  seedlings  and  cuttings 
in  the  spring. 

Red  Grapel. —  Grape  Grower.— Overloading  the  vines,  or  not  giving  sufficient 
air  when  colouring,  would  account  for  the  reddish  appearance  of  your  grapes.  In 
cold  and  rather  wet  borders  we  seldom  see  well-coloured  grapes.  When  the  foliage 
is  too  dense  overhead  to  admit  a  proper  proportion  of  light,  it  is  an  impossibility 
to  colour  grapes  well. 

Propagating  Manetti  Stocks. — A  Young  Eosarian. — You  can  easily  obtain 
a  stock  of  these  by  cutting  the  strong  shoots  into  lengths  of  eight  inches  in  the 
autumn.  Remove  the  lower  buds,  and  plant  them  in  rows  in  the  open  ground  an 
inch  or  so  apart ;  but  if  you  want  good  roses,  grow  them  on  their,  own  roots. 

Outdoor  Vine. — A.  B. — If  you  want  fine  bunches  thin  them  regularly, 
removing  the  bunches  entirely  where  they  are  crowded  together,  and  thinninf  out 
the  berries  in  the  branches  with  a  small  pair  of  scissors  to  allow  them  to  swell. 

Gathering  Everlasting  Flowers. — W.  C. — All  everlastings  should  be 
gathered  before  they  expand  fully.  To  preserve  the  whitness  of  the  white  ones,  we 
suppose  attention  to  the  rule  just  given  to  be  of  the  first  importance,  and,  next,  to 
keep  them  always  protected  from  dust.  The  white  everlastings  of  the  shops  are 
probably  bleached  by  means  of  sulphur  vapour. 

Fuchsia-Buds  Dropping. — X.  Y.  Z. — Most  likely  the  plants  have  quite  ex- 
hausted the  soil  in  which  they  are  growing ;  this  is  a  very  common  cause  at  this  time 
of  the  year.  Shift  the  young  and  middling-sized  plants  you  mention  at  once  into 
good  soil,  consisting  of  fibrous  loam,  leaf-mould,  rotten  dung,  and  silver  sand  • 
after  a  few  weeks'  growth  they  will  bloom  finely  through  the  latter  end  of  the 
autumn.  Try  a  little  guano-water,  mixed  at  the  rate  of  half  an  ounce  to  the 
gallon,  on  the  old  plants.  If  they  are  too  far  gone,  and  it  foils  to  have  a  salutary 
effect,  set  them  out  of  doors  in  a  shady  position  to  ripen  their  wood.  Those  grown 
out  of  shape,  and  not  wanted  for  propagating,  destroy  at  once. 

Culture  of  Agavas. — A  Lover  of  Succulents.—  All  the  Agavas  and  Yuccas 
require  a  soil  composed  of  rich  loam,  a  little  old,  dry,  chippy  dung,  leaf- 
mould,  and  a  good  admixture  of  broken  crocks,  lumpy  charcoal,  and  brick  rubbish. 
The  pots  should  be  well  drained  with  large  crocks  at  the  bottom,  then  a  layer  of 
smaller  ones,  and  then  some  of  the'  roughest  of  the  soil.  They  are  propagated  by 
suckers,  which  may  be  taken  off  now  if  of  moderate  size,  and  struck  in  sandy 
peat  and  loam.  They  like  sun,  and  during  the  summer  plenty  of  water  ;  in  winter 
very  little,  or  none  at  all.  Broken  leaves  may  be  cut  off  close  with  a  sharp  knife' 
but  the  less  the  plants  are  cut  or  injured  the  better.  Do  not  shift  to  laro-er  pots 
unless  the  pots  are  already  full  of  roots,  but,  if  they  really  require  more 
room,  shift  at  once  without  breaking  the  ball, and  give  plenty  of  water  and  shade  for 
a  week.  When  growing,  an  occasional  sponging  of  the  leaves  with  soft  tepid  water 
will  do  them  good,  but  they  must  not  be  exposed  to  sun  while  the  foliage  is  wet. 

Abutilon  Thompsoni.— A  Lady  Gardener. — The  following  extract  from  Hib- 
berd's  "  Beautiful-leaved  Plants  "  will  afford  you  the  information  in  which  you  are 
in  search  of.  It  is  the  best  and  fullest  account  of  this  beautiful  plant,  yet  published  ■ 
"  The  normal  or  specific  form  of  the  beautiful  plant  here  figured  is  a  verv  old  and 
lightly-esteemed  inhabitant  of  our  greenhouses,  which  was  once  in  bad  repute  as'  an 
unmanageable  stove  plant.     While  treated  to  a  greater  heat  than  was  consistent 


320  THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

with  its  nature  it  took  revenge  against  the  cultivator  by  perpetually  plaguing  him 
by  its  thin,  unwholesome  appearance,  and  its  suitability  as  a  breeding-place  for  all  the 
insect  plagues  that  usually  infest  plants  that  are  kept  in  too  high  a  temperature. 
When  it  was  transferred  from  the  stove  to  the  greenhouse,  it  acquired  better  health 
and  considerable  beauty ;  it  ceased  to  be  a  house  of  call  for  veimin  ;  it  made  a  free 
growth  of  cheerful  light  green  leaves,  and  produced  abundance  of  pretty  bell- 
shaped  flowers  of  an  orange  colour,  delicately  marked  with  red  stripes.  From  the 
greenhouse  it  was  taken  to  the  garden,  where  it  proved  so  nearly  hardy  that  in 
many  favoured  spots  in  the  south  of  England  and  Ireland  it  survived  ordinary 
winters  unhurt ;  and  of  late  years  it  has  been  adopted  freely  by  Mr.  Gibson  in  his 
masterly  system  of  emblishing  the  parterre  with  '  sub-tropical '  plants  at  Battersea 
Park.  Abutilon  striatum  has  never  enjoyed  the  fame  it  is  entitled  to,  perhaps 
because,  in  the  first  instance,  through  ignorance  of  its  hardy  constitution  it  was  a 
troublesome  plant  to  keep  alive  ;  and  in  the  second,  that  when  reasonably  treated 
it  was  so  easy  to  keep  and  to  grow,  that  very  few  ever  took  the  trouble  to  do 
perfect  justice  to  it.  We  believe  and  hope  a  better  fate  awaits  the  beautiful 
variety  *  Thompsoni.'  This,  like  the  species,  has  had  to  pass  through  a  fiery  ordeal, 
and  at  first  was  thought  a  worthless  tiling,  because  being  kept  in  the  stove  its 
beauty  was  stewed  out  of  it.  But,  tempora  mutanta,  it  is  the  fashion  now  to  try 
every  stove  and  greenhouse  plant  that  exhibits  distinctive  characters,  especially  dis- 
tinctive characters  of  leafage,  in  the  open  air;  and  when  put  to  this  test  it  came 
through  the  trial  bravely,  assumed  a  quite  novel  and  most  attractive  aspect,  and  so 
became  established  as  a  nearly  hardy  fine-foliage  plant,  which,  if  planted  out 
during  the  summer,  makes  a  display  of  variegated  leafage,  in  the  highest  degree 
beautiful  and  interesting.  In  proof  of  its  capability  for  this  kind  of  work  we  put 
out  at  Stoke  Newington,  in  the  early  part  of  May,  1869,  the  few  plants  which 
Messrs.  Veitch  &  Son  supplied  for  the  experiment.  During  the  five  weeks  which 
followed  the  date  of  planting  the  weather  was  more  like  winter  than  summer, 
bitterly  cold,  with  fitful  gleams  of  sunshine,  and  bedding-plants,  as  a  rule,  becoming 
all  the  while  small  by  degrees  though  not  beautifully  less.  Yet  these  Abutilons  were 
unhurt,  and  now,  having  had  a  good  spell  of  genuine  summer  heat,  they  are 
so  beautifully  coloured,  and  are  growing  so  freely,  that  we  are  bound  to  pronounce 
the  plant  admirably  adapted  for  out-door  embellishment,  and  one  of  the  most  dis- 
tinct and  attractive  of  the  class^  to  which  it  belongs.  Abutilon  Thompsoni  was 
introduced  by  Messrs.  Veitch  &  Son  from  Jamaica,  where  it  appears  to  have 
originated  as  a  garden  variety  of  the  well-known  A.  striatum,  native  of  Brazil. 
To  do  justice  to  it  is  no  difficult  task.  It  will  grow  freely  in  very  light,  rich  loamy 
soil,  and  its  proper  place  in  winter  is  in  a  warm  greenhouse.  During  the  summer  a 
thriving  plant  will  make  a  growth  of  two  to  four  feet,  and  when  allowed  to  grow 
naturally  it  forms  a  freely -branching  pyramidal  tree,  and  flowers  nearly  as  freely  as 
the  green-leaved  species.  It  is,  however,  not  in  need  of  flowers  to  secure  for  it  the 
admiration  of  such  as  can  appreciate  the  beauty  of  its  leaves.  These  are  elegantly 
lobed,  the  ground-colour  is  a  lively  green,  over  which  is  spread  a  delicate  mottling 
of  amber  and  creamy  white  in  many  shades  harmoniously  blended.  Full  exposure 
to  solar  light  is  necessary  to  bring  out  these  colours,  therefore  when  grown  under 
glass  it  should  never  be  shaded  unless  there  is  a  risk  of  blistering,  which,  as  a  rule, 
can  be  prevented  by  abundant  ventilation.  The  plant  may  be  increased  by  cuttings 
at  anv  season,  but  the  summer  is  the  best  time  ;  and  of  course  shade  and  a  close 
atmosphere  are  favourable  conditions  for  inducing  the  formation  of  roots.  There 
are  not  many  Abutilons  in  cultivation,  but  a  few  continental  varieties  of  A.  striatum, 
are  much  valued  for  their  flowers,  which  are  particularly  effective  when  the  trees 
are  planted  out  iu  groups  in  the  garden.  The  best  varieties  in  addition  to  the 
type  are,  Due  de  Malakoff,  insigne,  and  vanosum  striatum ;  these  have  the  free 
habit  of  the  species  and  flowers  possessing  distinctive  fjatures." 

Covering  Walls  of  House. — H.  C.  IT.— The  quickest  growing  climber  is 
the  Virginian  creeper,  but  it  is  coarse  ;  there  is  a  smaller  species,  Ampelopsis  tri- 
cttspidata  {syn.  Veitchi),  which  is  very  rapid  in  growth  and  very  neat.  The  fol- 
lowing climbing  roses  are  all  good — namely,  Felicite,  1  erpetue,  Rainpante,  Red 
Rover,  and  Prince  Leopold. 

A  Cottage  Gardener. — Pears,  apples,  and  strawberries  would  probably  pay  the 
best  but  so  much  depends  upon  the  neighbourhood.  Plant  at  the  end  of  the  house 
a  tree  of  jargonelle  or  Marie  Louise  pears. 


THE    FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  321 

VAEIEGATED  IVIES. 

(Illustrated  toith  a  Coloured  Plate.) 

N  the  Floral  "World  of  December,  1869,  our  readers 
were  invited  to  admire  a  few  of  the  more  distinctive 
varieties  of  ivies  in  our  collection.     At  the  same  time, 
the  paper  on  the  classification   and.   nomenclature   of 
ivies  read  before  the  Linusean  Society  was  reproduced, 
in  order  to  afford  to  those  who  were  interested  in  the  subject  an 
opportunity  of  considering  the  nature  of  the  reformation  in  botanical 
nomenclature,  it  was  (and  still  is)  our  anxious  desire  to  promote. 
Having  transferred  to  Mr.  C  Turner,  of  the  Royal  Nurseries,  Slough, 
the  whole  of  our  large  specimens  and  stock  plants  of  fifty  distinct 
varieties,  which  in  1869  constituted  the   Stoke  Newington  collec- 
tion, the  horticultural  public  have  been  enabled  to  obtain  (by  the 
simple  process  of  purchase)  any  of  the  beautiful  ivies  that  we  have 
described  and  figured  in  this  and  in  other  works.     But  we  had  not 
done  with  ivies  when  Mr.  Turner  carried  away  some  two  hundred 
of  our  finest  plants,  and  now  our  collection,  though  deficient  in  large 
specimen  plants,  which  can  only  be  produced  by  years  of  labour,  is 
far  more  extensive  than  ever,  and  we  might  certainly  count  amongst 
them  two  hundred  varieties  at  the  very  least.     It  is  not  our  intention 
to  trouble  our  readers  with  particulars  of  all  these,  for  a  large  pro- 
portion, of  them  will   never  receive  garden  names,  much    less  be 
honoured  with  publicity.     Our  object  is  to  promote  the  cultivation 
of  a  peculiarly  useful  class  of  ornamental  plants,  the  beauties  and 
uses  of  which  are  as  yet  comparatively  unknown.    The  accompanying 
plate  represents  named  ivies  that  may  be  purchased  in  the  ordinary 
way,  and   are  therefore   available  to   all,  irrespective   of  our  own 
private  collection,  which  will  probably  furnish  to  the  nursery  gar- 
dens many  additional  beauties  as  time  speeds  along.     It  will  occur 
to  some,  perhaps,  that  the  leaves  represented  in  the  plate  are  too 
highly  coloured;  but  the  truth  is,  the  best  drawing,  however  faith- 
fully reproduced,  must  fall  far  short  of  the  splendour  of  the  orio-inal. 
The  large  leaf  in  the  centre,  for   example,   which  represents  the 
Canescens  of  the  list  published  in  the  Floral  World  of  December 
1869,  and  the  Algeriensis  fol.  var.  of  the  nursery  catalogues,  is  so 
exquisitely  variegated  that  the  living  leaf  appears  to  be  bedewed 
with  an  infinitesimal  film  of  hoar  frost,  and  the  smaller  leaves  of 
the  marginata  series,  that  are  edged  and  flecked  with  a  curious  shade 
of  red,  are  far  more  richly  coloured  than  it  is  possible  to  indicate  in 
a  printed  picture.     The  delicate  shade  of  pink  mixing  with  stripes 
and  dots  of  brilliant  carmine,  which  appear  in  the  leaves  of  many 
of  the  smaller  variegated  ivies  in  the  autumn,  render  them  delight- 
fully attractive  as   conservatory  plants,  although   small  -and  large 
alike,  green*  and  variegated  alike,  never  attain  to  such  perfection 
under  pot  culture  as  they  do  when  planted  out   on  walls  facino- 
north. 

Now  that  the  flower-beds  are  empty  and  the  borders  bare,  some  idea 

YOL.    VI. NO.  XI.  21 


322  THE   FLORAL   WORLD    AND   GARDEN   GUIDE. 

of  the  importance  of  the  ivies  may  be  deduced  from  the  considera- 
tion that  those  of  the  marginata  series  make  edgings  to  beds  equal 
all  the  winter  to  edgings  formed  of  variegated  geraniums  during  the 
summer,  while  nicely-grown  pyramidal  specimens  of  any  of  the 
varieties  in  pots  may  be  plunged  in  the  flower-beds  for  winter  to 
afford  a  sumptuous  furnishing.  As  the  ivies  thrive  in  shade,  those  who 
love  ivies  may  furnish  their  shady  borders  in  a  most  delightful 
manner,  by  planting  all  the  more  distinctive  kinds,  and  training 
them  over  rough  logs,  or  on  poles,  or  over  detached  heaps  of  mere 
brick  rubbish,  to  form  rich  knolls  of  glossy  vegetation,  which  will  be 
even  more  beautiful  in  summer  than  in  winter. 

In  the  former  plate  the  varieties  were  numbered  1  to  7,  and 
therefore,  to  prevent  confusion,  those  in  the  present  plate  are 
numbered  8  to  15.  Their  names  are  as  follows :  8.  Marginata, 
rubra,  a  small  silver-edged  variety,  which  acquires  an  edging  of 
bright  carmine-red  in  the  autumn,  retaining  it  all  the  winter.  It  is 
known  as  "  tricolor "  in  many  nurseries.  9.  Luteola,  a  fine  tree 
ivy,  with  leaves  richly  margined  or  mottled  of  a  fine  deep  yellow 
colour.  This  is  one  of  the  best  variegated  ivies  known.  10.  Margi- 
nata major,  the  best  of  the  marginata  series,  save  M.  grandis,  which 
was  figured  in  the  plate  published  December,  1869.  11.  Argentea 
minor,  a  fine  tree  ivy,  with  richly-margined  leaves,  the  disk  of  a 
bluish  tint,  the  margin  rich  cream  colour.  12.  Striata,  the  striped- 
leaved  tree  ivy,  a  variety  of  the  large-leaved  Irish  ivy,  the  leaf  heavily 
blotched  and  striped  with  yellow  on  a  ground  of  rich  deep  green. 
13.  Variegata,  the  variegated  large-leaved  ivy,  another  noble  variety 
of  the  Irish  ivy,  barred  and  blotched  with  gold  upon  a  ground  of 
rich  glossy  green.  14.  Discolor,  the  small  marble-leaved  ivy,  a  very 
pretty  little  climbing  variety,  the  young  leaves  of  which  are  some- 
times wholly  white,  but  usually  heavily  blotched  with  white  and 
slightly  tinged  with  red.  15.  The  large  centre  leaf  is  Canescens,  the 
hoary-leaved  ivy,  a  delicate  and  pleasing  variety  of  Algeriensis.  In 
this  tlie  principal  surface  of  the  leaf  is  of  a  dull  glaucous  green, 
overspread  with  darker  shades,  and  the  margins  are  distinctly  whitish. 
A  large  mass  of  this  ivy  has  a  most  beautiful  appearance. 

S.  H. 


THE  CULTIVATION  OF  THE  EOSE.— No.  VIII. 

FORMING  A  ROSARIUM. 

IHE  time  has  once  more  returned  for  planting  roses,  and 
we  begin  by  saying  that  roses  may  be  multiplied  to  an 
immense  extent  in  any  garden  without  causing  satiety. 
But  it  does  not  follow  that  all  the  roses  should  be 
crowded  into  one  compartment — my  private  opinion  is 
that  they  should  not.  There  is  a  great  delusion  current  that  a  rosery 
is  a  very  fine  thing.  A  lover  of  roses  passes  half  his  time  in  dreaming 
of  the  mighty  rosarium  he  will  have  "some  day,"  and  when  some 
years  have  passed  by,  and  he  has  nursed  that  notion  until  it  has 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  323 

rendered  him  half  crazy,  he  begins  to  think  fate  very  unkind  not  to 
grant  him  the  fulfilment  of  his  desire,  and  then,  perhaps,  gives  up 
rose-growing,  and  breaks  his  heart.  Whether  it  might  be  worth 
while  to  break  one's  heart  about  it  would  be  worth  debating  if  a 
rosery  were  the  fine  thing  it  is  supposed  to  be.  I  do  not  wish  to 
quarrel  with  any  enthusiast  who  possesses  a  rosery,  or  intends  to 
form  one ;  indeed,  I  am  ready  to  help,  as  far  as  I  can,  every  one 
who  purposes  embarking  in  the  undertaking,  and  I  have  already  done 
my  best  that  way  in  the  "  Rose  Book,"  where  there  is  a  design  for  a 
rosarium  on  a  large  scale,  so  placed  on  paper  that  any  one  may  work 
it  out  without  difficulty,  and  at  an  expense  pretty  easily  ascertained. 
But  I  shall  avoid  the  discussion  of  the  policy  of  heart-breaking  on 
this  subject  by  avowing  my  belief  that  a  rosarium  is  not  a  fine  thing, 
and  that,  in  fact,  it  is  not  a  kind  use  of  the  rose  to  repeat  it  ad 
infinitum  on  a  large  tract  of  ground.  What  is  the  rosery  at  the 
Crystal  Palace,  in  bloom  or  out  of  bloom  ?  It  is  a  sight  to  avoid  ; 
there  is  no  beauty  in  it :  the  queen  of  flowers  should  have  better 
treatment  at  the  hands  of  her  votaries  than  to  be  abused  in  that 
way.  Look  at  any  rosarium  now,  and  what  is  it  ?  What  will  it  be 
but  a  wilderness  of  leafless  sticks  from  this  time  to  March  next  ? 
When  the  roses  are  in  flower,  will  it  be  as  beautiful  a  scene  as 
might  be  otherwise  created  with  a  similar  space  and  a  similar  expense  ? 
I  think  not :  but  I  like  roses  intermixed  with  evergreens,  set  out  in 
clumps  on  grass  turf,  dispersed,  divided,  scattered,  made  to  show 
their  splendid  colours  and  graceful  outlines  by  contrast  with  masses 
of  green  and  deepening  shadows,  instead  of  being  compelled  to 
impress  the  spectator  with  a  sense  of  the  sameness  that  is  possible 
by  a  misuse  of  the  finest  subjects. 

I  know  a  few  gardens  where  roses  are  grown  well,  and  in  con- 
siderable numbers,  and  where  they  have  a  tenfold  chance  when  in 
bloom,  and  are  not  unsightly  at  other  times,  because  they  are  inter- 
mixed with  fine  hollies,  sometimes  set  out  in  broad  masses,  with  rich 
backgrounds  and  belts  of  tree  and  shrub  to  give  relief,  and  where 
the  most  fastidious  would  not  complain  of  satiety,  and  the  most 
rapacious  rose-devourer  would  find  enough.  Give  me  well-planned 
walks  that  wind  easily  through  smooth  lawns  and  amongst  bold 
blocks  of  trees  and  evergreens,  and  I  will  rejoice  if  I  see  roses 
at  every  turn,  especially  if  they  are  grouped  so  as  to  bring  out 
their  several  colours,  though  it  is  a  fortunate  fact  that  if  a  clump 
of  roses  consists  of  various  kinds  brought  together  with  no  nice 
fore-reckoning  as  to  colours,  they  never  mar  each  other,  because 
there  are  no  strong  contrasts  amongst  them.  The  English  style  of 
gardening  is  admirable  for  the  display  of  this  most  English  flower, 
because  the  bold  breadths  of  green  required,  and  the  easy  transitions 
from  light  to  shade,  from  unbroken  turf  to  semi-wilderness,  and  from 
formal  lines  to  graceful  sweeps,  suit  the  rose  at  every  step.  On  the 
terrace  standards  are  admissible  ;  on  the  lawn  they  are  still  more 
appropriate;  and  in  mixed  planting  tbey  are  the  noblest  of  all  the 
subjects  we  possess  to  light  up  the  scene  with  colour,  and  delight  old 
and  young  with  their  grace  and  perfume. 

When  an  amateur  is  bent  on  forming  a  rosarium,  it  is  a  very  easy 


324  THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 

matter  to  waste  money  in  producing  a  complication  which  shall  at 
last  prove  unsatisfactory,  for  roses — even  if  we  select  the  best  for 
bedding  purposes — do  not  comfortably  fit  into  hearts  and  diamonds, 
and  the  rest  of  the  Euclidian  vagaries  that  are  to  be  seen  in  these 
days  in  private  gardens.  During  the  month  of  June,  groups  of 
such  a  kind  may  be  agreeable,  but  in  August  considerably  less  so, 
and  the  true  bedding  plants  will  certainly  have  stronger  claims  to 
patronage  on  artistic  grounds,  whatever  may  be  the  peculiar  pre- 
dilection of  tbe  amateur  for  roses.  I  cannot  imagine  a  more  simple 
and  effective  arrangement  for  a  small  collection  than  that  which  I 
adopted  fifteen  years  ago  at  Stoke  Newington.  On  either  side  of  the 
walk  was  a  broad  piece  of  ground,  with  tall  privet  hedges  beyond 
for  background.  Next  the  privet  was  a  narrow  walk,  and  on  the  line 
of  the  walk  trellis  wires  strained  to  oak  posts.  Against  the  trellis 
were  a  few  climbers,  and  thence  across  to  the  central  walk  a  regular 
arrangement  of  standards  in  lines,  with  dwarfs  next  the  walk  ;  the 
whole  scene  forming  two  banks  of  roses  with  the  walk  between. 
One  advantage  of  such  a  scheme  is  that  those  who  like  to  see  a  mass 
of  roses  in  bloom  are  sure  to  be  gratified.  Another  advantage  of  the 
arrangement  is  that  an  inspection  of  any  particular  tree  may  be  made 
without  difficulty  ;  in  fact,  the  rose  fancier  is  sure  to  take  his  walks 
amongst  them  frequently  to  criticise  and  compare,  to  indulge  in 
occasional  raptures,  and  sometimes — who  knows  ? — to  condemn  some 
of  them,  and  determine  on  exchanging  them  for  better.  Another, 
and  not  the  least  advantage  is,  that  you  can  call  it  a  rosery  without 
having  committed  yourself  to  an  arrangement  attended  with  expense, 
and  which  cannot  be  easily  altered.  A  rosery  of  this  kind  is,  after 
all,  only  a  couple  of  broad  borders,  say  16  feet  wide,  and  as  long 
as  may  be  suitable  to  the  place  and  the  purse  of  the  owner. 

As  at  this  season  many  amateurs  are  buying  and  planting  roses, 
a  few  suggestions  may  not  be  out  of  place.  Brier  roses,  or  in  other 
words,  Standards,  require  a  good  deep  moist  loam,  well  manured 
and  industriously  broken  up  previous  to  planting.  A  good  clay  will 
suit  them  if  there  is  no  stint  of  labour  in  deep  digging  and  breaking 
up,  and  manure  it  as  you  would  for  cauliflowers.  Dwarfs,  whether 
on  own  roots  or  Manettis,  require  a  rather  light  rich  loam,  but  robust 
habited  roses,  such  as  Jules  Margottin,  General  Jacqueminot,  and 
Anna  Alexieff,  are  not  particular,  provided  they  can  root  deep,  and 
are  well  fed.  Nevertheless,  the  best  way  to  prepare  the  ground,  if 
it  is  a  rather  stiff  loam,  is  to  dress  the  front  line  where  the  dwarfs 
are  to  be  planted  with  plenty  of  leaf-mould  and  rotten  manure  ;  and 
if  rotted  turf  can  be  spared  for  it,  the  stuff  will  not  be  wasted.  But 
let  no  one  suppose  that  roses  require  elaborate  preparations  ;  any 
soil  that  will  grow  a  good  cabbage  will  grow  a  good  rose,  whether  it 
is  a  cabbage  rose  or  any  other  kind. 

To  obtain  suitable  trees  is  a  matter  involving  no  difficulty.  A 
fastidious  purchaser  will  manage  to  see  and  mark  all  the  trees,  and 
have  the  sorts  according  to  a  list  made  out  beforehand.  But  there 
are  very  few  people  who  have  time  to  spare  to  buy  roses  in  that  way, 
and  an  order  sent  to  any  of  the  first-class  trade  growers,  whose 
names  are  known  well  enough,  specifying  heights  and  numbers,  and 


THE    FLORAL    WORLD    AND   GARDEN    GUIDE.  32-5 

leaving  the  dealer  to  select  the  sorts,  will  be  sure  to  result  satis- 
factorily, and  the  cost  of  the  whole  would  be  about  half  what  would 
be  charged  if  the  sorts  and  the  trees  were  selected  by  the  purchaser. 
I  made  a  plantation  like  my  own  for  a  friend,  and  I  went  about  it 
in  a  most  off-hand  way.  I  wrote  to  Messrs.  Lane  and  Son  for  so 
many  dozen  staudards,  ranging  from  three  to  seven  feet,  and  I  said 
nothing  about  the  numbers  required  of  particular  heights  or  sorts. 
When  they  came  in,  I  set  the  men  to  work  in  a  systematic  way.  One 
pruned  head  and  tail,  and  handed  them  over  ;  the  next  placed  them 
in  lots  as  to  heights  ;  the  next  carried  them  to  their  places,  and 
laid  them  in  bundles  for  planting.  To  have  a  plantation  of  roses  as 
true  to  heights  as  an  architect  would  require  the  columns  of  a 
portico,  is  out  of  the  question — it  simply  cannot  be  done;  but  there 
is  no  difficulty  in  arranging  them  to  form  a  very  regular  bank,  if  a 
fair  proportion  of  each  height  is  supplied  in  the  first  instance. 

The  work  of  planting  should  be  done  with  care.  Fellows  who 
blunder  about,  and  hack  and  slash  with  spade  and  knife  ought  not 
to  be  admitted  amongst  roses.  They  must  be  handled  as  old  Izaak 
Walton  advises  the  angler  to  handle  frogs — that  is,  tenderly,  yet 
boldly.  All  the  long  roots  must  be  cut  back ;  all  the  wounded 
roots  must  be  shortened,  so  as  to  remove  the  injured  parts  ;  there 
must  be  no  tugging  and  tearing,  and  care  must  be  taken  not  to 
bruise  the  bark.  In  cutting  back  the  heads,  it  must  be  remembered 
that  the  final  pruning  is  to  be  done  after  they  are  replanted ;  the 
cutting  back  before  planting  is  to  render  them  more  convenient  for 
handling,  for  the  nurserymen  send  them  in  with  all  their  huge 
whip-like  shoots  full  length  ;  it  would  not  do  for  them  to  prune 
them ;  they  would  not  look  worth  their  money,  to  say  nothing  of 
the  time  it  would  consume. 

In  planting,  the  ground  should  be  measured  off  in  lines,  and  it 
is  best  to  begin  with  the  tallest.  If  these  average  6  feet  high,  they 
must  be  5  feet  apart  in  the  row,  or  not  more  than  five-and-twenty 
in  a  run  of  100  feet.  The  next  row  should  be  5  feet  removed 
from  the  first,  and  the  trees  in  it  should  average  4^  feet  high,  and 
be  put  4  feet  asunder.  The  next  row  should  be  4  feet  from  the 
second,  and  the  trees  in  it  should  average  3  feet  high,  and  be  3  feet 
apart  in  the  row.  If  they  are  strong-growing  3orts,  and  the  soil  is 
good,  and  the  trees  have  already  fine  heads,  give  them  a  distance  of 
4  feet  apart,  and  they  will  then  touch  each  other,  and  make  a  solid 
line  of  leaf  and  bloom.  The  front  row  should  be  3  feet  from  the 
last,  and  the  bushes  in  it  2  feet  apart,  and  set  back  2  feet  from  the 
edge  of  the  walk.  The  quickest  way  to  plant  is  to  lay  down  the 
line,  place  the  trees,  carefully  laying  out  the  roots  near  the  surface, 
throw  a  little  earth  over,  and  tread  very  lightly,  just  enough  to  keep 
them  upright,  and  so  on  till  the  whole  are  in  their  places.  Then  go 
over  them  again,  tread  them  firm,  and  stake  them  securely,  and  they 
may  remain  for  mouths,  if  need  be,  without  any  further  attention. 
The  reason  I  always  plant  them  loose  in  the  first  instance  is  this, 
that  when  the  whole  piece  is  planted,  I  am  sure  to  want  to  move  a 
few,  and  make  a  few  exchanges.  I  can,  therefore,  take  out  any  of 
them  by  a  mere  touch,  rearrange  as  needful,  and  there  is  no  waste 


32G  THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND   GARDEN    GUIDE. 

of  labour.  Besides,  this  sort  of  work  should  be  done  quickly,  for  we 
do  not  get  much  fine  weather  at  the  time  for  planting  roses,  and  it 
does  them  much  mischief  to  lay  about :  the  sooner  their  roots  are 
covered  the  better.  By  the  system  of  merely  placing  them  with  a 
shovelful  of  stuff  over  the  roots,  the  whole  lot  can  be  got  into  their 
places  quickly,  and  come  rain,  frost,  snow,  or  what  else,  they  cannot 
suffer;  they  are  safe,  and  if  not  finished  for  a  week  or  two  no  harm 
can  arise.  But  I  do  not  counsel  delay ;  the  true  rosarian  will  never 
shilly-shally  when  planting  is  the  order  of  the  day.  The  sooner  the 
whole  job  is  finished  the  better ;  but  if  every  individual  tree  is 
finished  right  out  at  once,  some  may  suffer  through  laying  about 
with  perhaps  their  roots  not  half  covered  ;  and  at  the  best  it  is  cer- 
tain that  a  few  will  have  to  be  lifted  to  get  them  all  in  such  order  as 
will  satisfy  an  eye  at  all  fastidious  about  arrangements. 

Many  years  ago  I  advocated  the  use  of  iron  stakes  for  rose-trees. 
Some  growers  contend  that  iron  stakes  do  harm,  and  they  go  on 
using  oak  stakes  instead.  Now,  I  am  certain,  from  long  observation 
and  experience,  that  iron  stakes  do  no  harm,  and  that  oak  stakes, 
and,  in  fact,  any  kind  of  timber  supports,  are  really  injurious,  and 
many  a  rose-tree  is  killed  by  the  spread  of  fungus  over  its  roots, 
through  contact  with  decaying  wood.  Once  in  three  years  we  boil 
up  a  cauldron  of  tar  and  pitch,  thrust  the  ends  of  the  iron  stakes 
into  the  fire  that  boils  the  pot,  and  when  the  ends  are  rather  hot  dip 
them  into  the  mixture.  Two  coats  of  paint  on  the  length  of  the  rod 
finishes  them  ;  they  can  be  placed  close  to  the  stems  of  the  trees, 
care  being  taken  in  thrusting  them  down  not  to  drive  them  through 
the  thick  roots  near  the  collar,  and  when  the  trees  are  tied  up  the 
stakes  are  almost  invisible. 

The  pruning  can  be  finished  any  time  before  the  1st  of  March. 
It  may  be  done  as  soon  as  the  planting  is  finished,  and  before  the 
trees  are  staked,  for  although  winter  pruning  is  not  good  for  esta- 
blished roses,  because  it  tends  to  make  them  grow  too  soon  in  spring, 
roses  newly  planted  have  enough  check  to  prevent  that,  and  autumn 
or  winter  pruning  will  not  hurt  them. 

It  is  of  the  utmost  importance  for  the  full  enjoyment  of  a  plan- 
tation of  roses  to  have  them  legibly  and  correctly  labelled.  If  the 
calico  labels  the  nurserymen  put  on  are  allowed  to  flutter  in  the 
wind  all  winter,  the  chances  are  that  the  writing  will  be  washed  out 
before  spring.  Therefore,  to  complete  the  labelling  quickly  is  a 
matter  of  considerable  importance.  There  are  a  thousand  ways  of 
forming  and  attaching  labels  to  trees.  I  can  find  nothing  better 
than  wooden  labels  smeared  with  white  lead,  and  written  on  with  a 
pencil  while  the  paint  is  soft.  Attach  these  with  a  copper  wire,  and 
take  care  not  to  cut  the  bark  of  the  tree,  and  leave  the  wire  loose 
enough  for  the  tree  to  swell.  Once  a  year  look  at  every  label,  and 
keep  a  list  of  all  the  sorts,  in  which  you  may  make  notes  of  their 
characters  and  behaviour. 

A  SELECTION  OE  EIRST-CLASS  ROSES    THAT    ELOWER   EREELT  IN   LATE 
SUMMER  AND  AUTUMN,  AND  IN  MILD  SEASONS  UNTIL  CHRISTMAS. 

Hybrid  Perpetuate. — Adolphe  Brongniart,  Baron  Haussmann,  Boule  de  Neige, 
Charles  Turner,  Comte  Raimbaud,  Duchesse  d'Aotte,  Duke  of  Edinburgh,  Dupny 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND   GARDEN    GUIDE.  327 

Jamain,  Edouard  Morren,  Elie  Morel,  Franijois  Fontaine,  Henri  Ledecbaux, 
Imperatrice  Charlotte,  Julia  Touvais,  Julie  Treyve,  La  France,  Leopold  II., 
Madame  Alice  Dureau,  Madame  Creyton,  Madame  Noman,  Monsieur  Journeaux, 
Pitord,  Prince  Humbert,  Princess  Christian,  Virgil,  La  Duchesse  de  Moray,  Jules 
Margottin,  Anna  Alexieff,  Madame  de  Carnbaceres,  Madame  Knorr,  Madame 
Charles  Wood,  Le  Rhone,  Charles  Lefebvre,  Vicomte  Vigier,  Alfred  Colomb, 
Senateur  Vaisse,  Marguerite  de  St.  Amand,  General  Jacqueminot,  Comte  de 
Nanteuil,  Madame  Moreau,  Elizabeth  Vigneron,  Charles  Verdier,  Madame  Alfred 
de  Rougemont,  Jean  Lambert,  and  Louise  Darzius. 

Bourbons  and  Teas. — All  noted  for  flowering  late  in  the  year  ;  so  also  are  the 
pure  Chinas,  Gloire  de  Dijon,  Malmaison,  Mrs.  Bosanquet,  and  Bourbon  Queen. 

Garden  Roses. — The  following  is  a  selection  of  genuine  garden  roses,  of  the 
section  of  Hybrid  Perjietuals,  that  flower  freely  in  the  autumnal  montbs  :  Anna 
Alexieff,  Albion,  Aristide,  Dupuis,  Baron  Prevost,  Beauty  of  Waltham,  Coquette 
des  Alpes,  Cure  de  Charentaye,  Camille  Bernardin,  Duchesse  de  Moray,  Edouard 
Morren,  Elie  Morel,  Eugene  Appert,  General  Jacqueminot,  John  Hopper,  Jules  Mar- 
gottin, La  France,  La  Brilliante,  Le  Rhone,  Louis  Darzins,  Madame  Charles  Wood, 
Madame  Knorr,  Marguerite  de  St.  Amand,  Madame  Noman,  Madame  Moreau, 
Marechal  Vaillant,  Marquise  de  Castellane,  Paulde  la  Meillerez,  Pavilion  de  Pregny, 
Princess  Christian,  Souvenir  de  Charles  Montault,  Theiese  Appert,  Vicomte  Vigier, 
Triomphe  des  Beaux  Arts,  Victor  Verdier,  Sophie  de  Villeboisnet,  Souvenir  de 
Caillat.  There  are  a  few  pre-eminently  free-flowering  varieties  amongst  the  new 
division,  termed  Perpetual  Bourbons,  such  as  Emotion,  Baronne  de  Maynard, 
Comtesse  de  Brabantanne,  Louise  Odier,  Catherine  Guillot,  B.  Queen,  Rev.  II. 
Dombrain  ;  the  new  white  China  Ducher,  and  the  Teas  generally.  These  also  form 
excellent  beddiDg  roses  for  pegging  down. 

S.  H. 


BEERY-BEARING  PLANTS  FOR  TABLE  DECORATION. 

BY    J.    W.    SILVER, 
Head  Gardener,  The  Laurels,  Taunton. 


[HE  plants  remarkable  for  the  beauty  of  their  foliage,  aud 
those  grown  for  their  flowers,  adapted  for  dinner-table 
decoration,  have  been  already  described,  and  now  atten- 
tion will  be  directed  to  berry-bearing  plants  suitable  for 
the  same  purposes.  All  three  classes  possess  many 
desirable  qualities,  and  a  fair  proportion  of  each  should  be  grown  ; 
but  it  can  be  said  with  safety  that  the  class  now  under  consideration 
is  not  surpassed  by  either  of  the  other  two,  and  also  that  in  small 
gardens  they  are  not  grown  so  extensively  as  they  should  be.  They 
are  generally  at  their  best  when  plants  in  flower  are  scarce,  and 
when  a  large  proportion  of  the  ornamental-leaved  plants  are  either 
at  rest  or  the  old  foliage  has  become  dull  and  ineffective.  They  are 
all,  moreover,  easy  to  manage,  hardier  in  constitution,  and  may  be 
employed  to  decorate  the  dinner-table  almost  any  number  of  times 
without  being  injured  in  the  least. 

"With  this  brief  preface,  we  will  at  once  commence  to  enumerate 
the  most  suitable,  and,  for  facility  of  reference,  take  them  in  alpha- 
betical order. 

Aucuba  Japonica. — We  will  not  take  up  space  so  valuable  as 
that  of  the  pages  of  the  Elobal  Wobld  in  recounting  how  this 
valuable  plant  was  grown  in  the  stove  when  first  introduced  to 
English   gardens,  or  describe  the  many  attempts  that  were  made  to 


328  THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND   GARDEN    GUIDE. 

introduce  the  male  plant,  before  it  was  successfully  accomplished. 
The  hardiness  of  the  Aucuba  is  established  beyond  doubt,  and  the 
male  plants  are  now  plentiful,  and  all  that  we  have  to  do  is  to  deal 
with  it  in  relation  to  its  adaptability  for  the  decoration  of  the  dinner- 
table.  To  render  the  directions  that  will  be  given  as  plain  as 
possible,  it  is  necessary  to  say  that  the  Aucuba  is  dioecious — that 
is  to  say,  some  plants  bear  male,  and  some  female  flowers  ;  and 
to  insure  a  crop  of  berries  a  fair  proportion  of  plants  of  both 
sexes  must  be  grown.  The  pollen  from  the  flowers  produced  by  one 
male  plant  will  be  sufficient  to  fertilize  those  of  a  large  number  of 
female  plants,  if  made  the  most  of;  but  for  an  amateur  not  well 
skilled  in  the  manipulations  necessary  to  make  the  most  of  the 
poller),  the  males  should  be  grown  at  the  rate  of  about  one  to  six  of 
the  females. 

There  are  several  ways  of  propagating  a  stock,  but  the  most 
desirable  way  for  an  amateur  to  propagate  them  is  by  cuttings  or 
layers.  For  those  well  skilled  in  grafting,  that  way  of  increasing 
the  stock  of  any  desirable  kind  is  the  best  that  could  be  adopted. 
As  it  is  necessary  to  have  stocky  specimens,  young  plants  of  the 
common  kind  raised  from  cuttings  should  be  selected  for  stocks,  and 
the  grafts  put  on  near  the  surface  of  the  soil.  Cuttings  strike  best 
when  put  in  early  in  the  autumn,  when  the  young  growth  has 
become  firm.  In  layering,  select  healthy,  vigorous  side-shoots, 
make  a  slanting  cut  on  the  lower  side  of  the  stem,  about  six  or 
nine  inches  below  the  point,  and  peg  the  shoot  firmly  into  the 
border,  and  cover  aboxit  three  inches  of  the  stem  with  soil.  This 
should  be  done  in  the  autumn,  and  the  layers  taken  off  when  they 
are  well  furnished  with  roots,  and  put  in  pots.  In  all  cases  use 
well-drained  pots  and  turfy  loam,  to  which  a  small  proportion  of 
leaf-mould  or  thoroughly-decayed  manure  has  been  added.  The 
pots  also  should  be  rather  small  in  proportion  to  the  size  of  the 
plants,  and  the  soil  be  pressed  firm. 

The  main  point  we  have  to  consider  is  the  production  of  good 
crops  of  berries,  for  unless  they  are  well  berried,  they  will  not  be 
of  any  use  whatever  for  the  purpose  for  which  they  are  intended. 
The  best  means  to  secure  this  desirable  end  is  to  grow  the  plants  of 
both  sexes  in  the  same  temperature,  to  insure  their  both  flowering 
at  the  same  time.  If  the  flowers  of  either  appear  likely  to  expand 
in  advance  of  the  other,  the  earliest  may  be  retarded  by  being 
removed  to  a  lower  temperature ;  but,  in  the  case  of  the  male 
flowering  first,  the  pollen  may  be  preserved  in  a  small  tin  box  or 
tinsel  paper  until  required  for  use.  It  may  then  be  applied  with  a 
eamel's-hair  brush.  When  the  flowers  of  both  expand  at  the  same 
time,  insect  agency  will  accomplish  the  necessary  fertilization. 

There  are  a  large  number  of  varieties  now  in  cultivation,  so  that 
there  will  be  no  difficulty  in  selecting  six  that  are  really  distinct  and 
good.  The  following  selection,  without  including  the  most  expen- 
sive, cannot  be  surpassed  :  (Males),  A.  japonica  metadata  mascula, 
A.  j.  viridls  mascula;  (Females),  A.j.  lati-maculata,  A.j.  maculata 
elegans,  A.  j.  viridis  nana,  A.  j.  macrophylla. 

Akdisia. — The  beautiful  and  showy  A.  crenulata  must  also  have 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  329 

a  place  in  this  selection.  It  has  one  drawback,  it  requires  a  stove 
temperature ;  so  that  it  can  only  be  cultivated  where  the  conve- 
niences of  a  stove  exist.  It  however  is  sufficiently  hardy  in  con- 
stitution to  admit  of  its  being  employed  in  indoor  decoration  without 
injury.  The  readiest  way  of  increasing  the  stock  is  by  seed.  The 
berries  should  be  gathered  when  full  ripe,  and  laid  in  silver  sand  for 
some  time  previous  to  sowing.  A  brisk  temperature  and  a  mild  bottom- 
heat  will  be  of  material  service  in  assisting  the  seed  to  vegetate  quickly; 
but  bottom-heat  is  not  essential  to  the  germination  of  the  seed. 
The  plants  should  be  grown  in  rather  small  and  thoroughly-drained 
pots,  and  at  all  times  be  kept  in  a  light  position  near  the  »lass. 
A  compost  prepared  by  well  incorporating  together  two  parts  fibry 
peat  and  one  part  turfy  loam,  and  sufficient  sand  to  make  the  soil 
feel  gritty,  will  suit  them  admirably. 

Rivina. — The  graceful  and  easily-grown  R.  humilis  is  probably 
one  of  the  most  useful  of  its  class  for  the  decoration  of  the  dinner- 
table  ;  its  bright  green  leafage  and  pendant  racemes  of  deep  red  coral- 
like berries  combine  to  render  it  unusually  attractive.  Standard 
plants  are  very  interesting,  and  are  readily  produced  by  training  up 
a  single  stem,  and  pinching  out  the  terminal  point  to  cause  the  pro- 
duction of  side-shoots,  which  soon  make  their  appearance  afterwards. 
Bushy  specimens  are  also  effective,  and  very  readily  produced.  The 
system  adopted  here — which  is  certainly  very  simple — is  to  put 
seven  or  eight  seedling  plants,  when  about  one  inch  in  height,  in  a 
three-inch  pot.  When  well-established,  the  points  of  the  shoots  are 
nipped  out,  and  as  soon  as  the  laterals  which  push  from  the  main 
stem  have  from  four  to  six  joints  each,  the  points  of  these  also  must 
be  nipped  out,  and  the  plants,  without  being  divided,  transferred  to 
five-inch  pots.  They  should  then  be  placed  in  a  light  position  in 
the  stove  or  intermediate  house.  Equal  parts  loam,  leaf-mould, 
peat,  and  well-decomposed  cow  manure  form  a  compost  most 
conducive  to  a  healthy  development  of  foliage  and  a  plentiful  crop 
of  berries.  This  useful  subject  can  be  most  readily  raised  from 
seed,  which  should  be  sown  early  in  the  spring,  when  fully  matured. 

Seimmia. — The  pretty  8.  Jajjonica  can  be  heartily  recommended 
for  table-decoration,  as  much  for  its  great  beauty  as  for  its  perfect 
hardiness.  It  is  neat  and  compact  in  growth  and  effective  in  appear- 
ance. When  covered — as  the  plants  usually  are  in  the  early  part  of 
the  summer — with  their  white  flowers,  they  are  very  pretty,  but 
when  loaded  with  large  clusters  of  brilliant  vermilion  berries  during 
the  winter,  the  effect  produced  by  a  well-developed  specimen  can 
be  better  imagined  than  described.  8.  oblata  is  readily  distin- 
guished from  8.  Japomca  by  the  depression  at  the  end  of  the  berries, 
and  it  is  far  less  desirable.  They  are  propagated  by  seed,  which 
should  be  sown  in  the  early  part  of  the  summer,  in  pans,  which  can 
be  placed  either  in  a  cold  frame  or  in  heat  until  the  young  plants 
appear,  when  they  must  be  removed  to  a  lower  temperature,  such  as 
that  of  a  cold  frame.  A  moderately  rich  and  open  compost  is  neces- 
sary to  the  production  of  healthy  plants,  and  the  pots  should  be 
plunged  during  the  summer  months  in  the  open  border,  and  the 
plants  not  allowed  to  suffer  for  the  want  of  moisture  at  the  roots. 


330  THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

Solantjm. — The  showy  S.  capsicastrum  is  very  beautiful  when 
well  grown,  but  it  is  decidedly  interior  to  the  beautiful  &.  hylridum 
compactum,  introduced  by  Mr.  B.  S.  Williams,  Victoria  and  Paradise 
Nursery,  Upper  Holloway.  The  latter  requires  no  training,  and  is 
much  more  effective  when  upon  the  table  ;  indeed,  it  is  one  of  the 
finest  subjects  for  conservatory  decoration  during  the  winter  months 
we  have.  To  secure  good  specimens,  well  furnished  with  berries,  by 
the  autumn,  the  seed  must  be  sown  very  early  in  the  spring,  and 
the  seed-pots  placed  in  a  brisk  temperature,  such  as  that  of  a 
cucumber  or  melon  pit.  Pot  off  singly  into  three-inch  pots,  and 
when  these  are  well  filled  with  roots,  shift  them  into  pots  one  or 
two  sizes  larger ;  gradually  harden  off,  and  early  in  June  plunge 
them  in  an  open  border,  with  the  rim  of  the  pots  just  below  the 
level.  Plants  so  managed  will  not  become  infested  with  red-spider, 
green-fly,  or  any  other  of  the  many  pests  which  prey  upon  them 
when  they  are  kept  under  glass  all  the  summer  ;  indeed  they  will 
not  require  more  than  one-tenth  the  labour  and  attention  to  keep 
them  in  good  health  as  would  otherwise  be  necessary.  Moreover, 
they  will  keep  dwarf  and  bushy,  and  by  the  autumn  will  be  loaded 
with  their  bright  orange-red  berries. 

Standard  specimens  are  produced  by  training  up  a  single  stem, 
and  then  stopping  it  when  about  fifteen  inches  in  height.  The 
laterals  also  require  stopping  when  about  three  inches  in  length,  to 
insure  bushy  heads.  In  the  spring  they  will  require  pruning  into 
shape,  and  as  soon  as  the  young  growth  is  about  half  an  inch  in 
length  they  should  be  taken  out  of  the  pots,  the  ball  of  soil  reduced 
slightly,  and  be  repotted  in  the  same-sized  pots  again.  Dwarf 
specimens  of  an  extra  size  for  conservatory  decoration  may  be  had 
by  pruning  the  plants  which  have  done  duty  during  the  previous 
winter,  and  repotting  them  as  here  directed,  and  growing  them  on 
the  second  season  in  the  same  manner  as  advised  for  the  first. 
Fully-developed  standards  require  two  years  for  their  production, 
and  the  berries  should  therefore  be  removed  as  soon  as  set  during 
the  first  season. 


SOUCHET'S  NEW  GLADIOLI   FOR  1871-2. 

BT    EUGENE    VERDIER,    EILS    AINE, 

3,  Rue  Dunois,  Gare  d'lvry,  Paris. 

11E  are  happy  to  learn  that  the  French  industries  are  rapidly 
recovering  from  the  effects  of  the  late  war,  and  that  we 
shall  this  season  receive  our  usual  supplies  of  new  roses, 
gladioli,  etc.,  from  France.  From  our  correspondents 
in  that  country  we  learn  that  some  of  the  new  flowers 
are  of  great  promise,  and  well  worth  the  attention  of  growers  on 
this  side  of  the  Channel.  For  the  descriptive  list  of  M.  Souchet's 
new  Gladioli  we  are  indebted  to  M.  Eugene  Verdier,  fils  aine,  in 
whose  hands  we  understand  they  are  placed  for  distribution. 


THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND   GARDEN   GUIDE.  331 

Alcyon,  very  beautiful  spike  of  large  flowers,  ground  white, 
heavily  bordered  and  flamed  with  rose  carmine  ;  charming  plant,  very 
dwarf. 

Antigone,  long  spike  of  very  large  flowers  of  a  tender  rose, 
heavily  flamed  with  red  carmine,  of  great  effect ;  perfection. 

Antiope,  very  long  and  fine  spike  of  clear  cerise  orange  flowers, 
stained  with  very  dark  carmine  upon  a  pure  white  ground  ;  plant  of 
great  effect. 

Ariadne,  very  long  spike  of  large  perfect  flowers,  ground  very 
clear  white,  tinted  rose  or  lilac,  bordered  and  flamed  with  tender 
carmine  rose,  the  inferior  divisions  pure  white  ground  ;  splendid  and 
fine  ;  perfection,  of  moderate  height. 

ArsincB,  fine  spike  of  large  perfect  flowers,  very  beautiful  satin 
rose,  flamed  bright  carmine,  charming ;  very  dwarf. 

Beatrix,  very  long  spike  of  large  perfect  flowers,  ground  pure 
white,  very  delicately  flamed  with  crimson  lilac;  splendid  and  very 
fine  variety,  of  moderate  height. 

Celimene,  very  long  spikes  of  very  lsrge  and  very  open  perfect 
flowers,  clear  red  orange,  heavily  flamed  with  bright  red,  very  bril- 
liant ;  splendid. 

Bidon,  very  long  and  ample  spike  of  large  perfect  flowers,  white, 
slightly  tinted  and  flamed  tender  lilac,  inferior  divisions  pure  white, 
moderate  height ;  perfection. 

Jupiter,  very  long  and  fine  spike  of  large  perfect  flowers,  ground 
clear  red,  very  beautifully  flamed  with  crimson  red,  very  dark  ; 
splendid  variety,  of  great  effect. 

Minerve,  very  ample  spike  of  large  very  open  flowers,  bright 
crimson,  very  brilliant,  small  red-carmine  stains  upon  a  clear  white 
ground,  very  fine  tint,  of  great  effect ;  moderate  height. 

Ossian,  very  long  and  fine  spikes  of  large  perfect  flowers,  very 
beautiful  bright  rose,  tinted  with  violet,  and  flamed  carmine  ground  ; 
very  fine,  and  of  moderate  height. 

Phoebus,  fine  spike  of  large  fire-red  flowers,  very  striking,  very 
large  pure  white  stains,  of  great  effect ;  splendid  late  variety,  much 
recommended  for  the  striking  brilliancy  of  its  colour,  unique,  of 
moderate  height. 

Virginalis,  long  spike  of  large  flowers,  pure  white,  bordered 
and  flamed  with  tender  carmine  rose,  small  growth  ;  very  fine  and 
attractive. 


THE  MAKING  A1SD  THE  MANAGEMENT  OF  THE  LAWN. 

insure  the  luxury  of  a  "velvet  lawn,"  is,  to  speak 
generally,  a  most  easy  matter,  and  though  it  may  be 
comparatively  costly  in  the  first  instance,  it  will  prove  in 
the  end  one  of  the  best  of  investments  of  gold  in  garden- 
ing. The  soft  elastic  turf  of  a  chalky  down  will  kindly 
inform  the  traveller  that  a  lawn  may  be  laid  on  chalk;  and  the  closely 
bitten  grassy  herbage  of  a  sandy  common  will  in  like  manner  suggest 


332  THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 

that  gravel  and  sand  may  be  clothed  for  the  production  of  a  living 
carpet  that  will  last  for  ever.  It  is,  however,  on  a  deep  loam  or  a 
clay  that  has  been  well  tilled,  that  the  best  example  of  grass  turf  is 
to  be  looked  for,  and  on  such  land  we  should  prefer  to  operate,  were 
it  required  of  us  to  present  the  best  possible  example  of  making  and 
keeping  a  garden  lawn. 

In  the  formation  of  a  lawn,  all  levels  must  be  carefully  deter- 
mined, and  the  ground  thoroughly  well-prepared,  that  there  may  be 
no  waste  of  labour  in  alterations  afterwards.  In  the  case  of  laying 
fresh  turf  on  the  site  of  an  exhausted  plot,  from  which  bad  turf  has 
been  removed,  a  heavy  dressing  of  good  manure  should  be  dug  in, 
for  grass  needs  nourishment  in  common  with  all  other  plants. 
The  last  act  of  preparation  consists  in  spreading  over  the  level 
ground  about  an  inch  depth  of  fine  earth,  which  is  to  be  distributed 
evenly,  and  every  stone  removed  by  means  of  the  rake.  Then  we 
approach  an  important  question — which  is  best,  turf  or  seeds  ?  In 
any  and  every  case,  turf  is  to  be  preferred,  for  upon  the  instant  of 
its  being  laid  and  rolled,  the  lawn  is  formed,  and  there  is  an  end  of 
the  matter.  Two  considerations  give  interest  to  this  question — the 
cost  of  turf  is  necessarily  far  in  excess  of  the  cost  of  seeds,  and  it 
may  happen  that  turf  is  not  to  be  obtained  within  reasonable  carting 
distance.  Supposing  the  amateur  to  have  a  choice  of  means  and 
materials,  our  advice  would  be  in  favour  of  the  purchase  of  the  best 
turf  possible,  for  any  extent  of  ground  under  one  acre  ;  but  when 
we  get  beyond  an  acre,  with  every  increase  of  extent  the  argu- 
ment in  favour  of  seeds  increases  in  force,  for  the  cutting  and  cart- 
ing of  turf  is  a  somewhat  costly  business.  In  selecting  turf  for  a 
garden,  give  the  preference  to  that  which  is  of  close  texture,  contain- 
ing a  fair  sprinkling  of  clover  intermixed  with  the  finer  grasses. 
We  have  formed  many  lawns  from  meadow  turf,  which  in  the  first 
instance  appeared  far  too  coarse,  and  they  have  in  the  course  of 
three  years'  acquired  a  beautiful  texture  fit  for  the  foot  of  a  princess 
in  a  fairy  tale.  Grass  turf  may  be  laid  at  any  time  during  favour- 
able weather,  but  the  autumn  is  to  be  preferred,  because  of  the  long 
season  of  growth  the  newly-laid  turf  will  have  to  aid  in  its  establish- 
ment before  being  tried  by  the  summer  sun.  If  laid  in  the  spring, 
grass  usually  passes  through  the  first  summer  safely,  but  is  of 
necessity  exposed  to  the  risk  of  being  roasted ;  in  the  event  of  a  hot, 
dry  summer  the  risk  is  greater  in  the  case  of  turf  laid  late,  than  than 
of  turf  laid  early.  When  the  work  is  deferred  until  the  season  of 
spring  showers  is  past,  it  will  be  advisable  to  spread  over  the  turf  a 
coat  of  good  manure,  and  keep  it  regularly  and  liberally  watered 
until  showers  occur. 

In  selecting  seeds,  the  character  of  the  soil  must  be  taken  into 
consideration,  for  a  mixture  that  would  suit  a  clay  or  loam  would 
not  equally  well  suit  a  gravel  or  chalk  soil.  The  seedsmen  who 
make  a  "  speciality  "  of  grass  seeds  will  for  any  given  case  supply  a 
better  mixture  than  anyone  unskilled  in  the  matter  could  obtain, 
even  if  acting  on  the  advice  of  a  botanist  or  gardener.  As,  however, 
prescriptions  are  occasionally  required  by  seedsmen  who  have  not 
had  extensive  experience,  we  shall  append  to  this  chapter  a  few  for 


THE    FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  333 

mixtures  adapted  to  particular  kinds  of  soil.  The  best  time  in  the 
year  to  sow  seeds  is  the  month  ol*  August.  If  the  work  cannot  then 
be  completed,  the  sowing  may  be  continued  through  September  and 
October,  but  not  later ;  but  may  be  resumed  in  February  and 
March.  Grass  seeds  may  be  sown  indeed  on  auy  day  in  the  year, 
provided  the  weather  is  favourable  to  the  operation,  and  the  ground 
in  a  fit  state ;  but  the  month  of  August  is  the  best  time  to  insure  a 
good  plant  before  winter,  and  a  long  period  of  growth  before  the 
summer  heat  returns. 

There  is  yet  a  third  mode  of  forming  a  lawn,  now  rarely  prac- 
tised, but  in  days  when  grass  seeds  were  comparatively  unknown, 
frequently  resorted  to.  It  is  termed  "  inoculating  "  and  consists  in 
planting  pieces  of  grass  turf  at  regular  distances  over  the  plot. 
In  districts  where  good  turf  is  obtainable  only  in  small  quanti- 
ties, this  method  may  be  recommended,  for  if  the  turves  are  torn 
into  small  pieces  and  planted  at  a  foot  apart  in  September  or 
February,  they  will  extend  rapidly,  and  form  a  pretty  good  sward 
the  first  season. 

In  the  after  management,  the  principal  operations  consist  of 
rolling,  mowing,  and  weeding.  Grass  seeds  must  be  constantly 
weeded,  until  the  turf  thickens  sufficiently  to  kill  out  the  weeds,  and 
newly-laid  turf  must  be  kept  clean  of  thistles,  docks,  and  other  rank 
weeds,  by  spudding  them  out,  or  by  a  simpler  process  which  we 
have  long  practised  with  the  most  agreeable  results,  that  of  deposit- 
ing in  the  heart  of  the  plant  a  small  quantity  of  phospho-guano, 
which  kills  it  at  once,  and  promotes  the  growth  of  clover  in  its 
stead.  If  this  operation  is  carelessly  performed,  and  the  guano 
thrown  about  wastefully,  the  immediate  result  is  a  dotting  of  the 
lawn  with  unsightly  brown  patches,  which  however,  soon  disappear 
after  the  occurrence  of  rainy  weather. 

Many  as  are  the  kinds  of  mowing  machines,  they  may  all  be  classed 
under  two  heads — those  that  cut  and  carry,  and  those  that  cut  and 
scatter.  A  carrying-machine  may  be  made  to  scatter  by  removing 
the  box,  but  not  so  well  as  the  machine  that  is  intended  for  scatter- 
ing, as  in  each  case  the  cutter  is  formed  expressly  for  the  work  it  is 
intended  to  perform.  If  the  question  be  asked,  which  is  the  best 
form  of  machine,  our  reply  is  that  they  are  of  equal  value,  and  the 
intending  purchaser  must  be  guided  by  a  consideration  of  circum- 
stances. In  the  excessively  hot  and  dry  summers  of  1868  and  1870 
we  constantly  employed  the  "Archimedean,"  which  scatters  the 
grass,  and  our  lawns  were  as  green  through  all  the  burning  drought 
as  in  the  cooler  days  of  spring.  In  the  moist  summer  of  1871,  it 
would  have  been  necessary  to  sweep  up  the  grass,  had  the  scattering 
machine  been  employed  on  our  strong  land,  and  therefore  we  kept 
our  trusty  "  Shanks  "  at  work,  cutting  and  carrying,  and  had  to 
mow  twice  a  week  through  the  whole  of  June  and  July,  to  keep  the 
grass  down.  Nevertheless,  in  that  same  moist  summer,  we  saw  the 
"Archimedean  "  employed  on  a  tract  of  chalk  land,  which  is  pecu- 
liarly exposed  to  the  influence  of  the  sun,  and  the  result  was  a  fresh 
green  turf,  where  in  the  height  of  summer  nothing  better  than  a 
dusty   door  mat  had  ever  been  seen  before.     When  the  grass  is 


334  THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

cut  by  cutters  adapted  for  the  scattering  system,  it  falls  on  the 
ground  in  a  form  more  resembling  dust  than  fibres,  and  acts  as  a 
"  mulch  "  both  to  nourish  the  growth  and  arrest  evaporation  from 
the  soil;  hence  the  importance  of  the  scattering  system  on  chalk  and 
sand,  and  other  hungry  stuff,  and  on  any  soil  in  such  a  hot  season 
as  1870. 

In  the  keeping  of  an  old  lawn  it  is  of  the  utmost  importance  to 
remember  that  grasses  and  clovers  require  for  their  well-doing  a 
highly  nourishing  soil.  Now  it  matters  not  how  good  the  soil  may 
be  in  the  first  instance,  if  we  cut  and  carry  we  labour  constantly  to 
impoverish  the  soil.  In  every  barrowful  of  grass  removed  there 
will  be  a  certain  quantity  of  alkalies,  phosphates,  and  other  consti- 
tuents of  vegetation  abstracted  from  the  soil.  To  be  always  taking 
off  and  putting  nothing'on  must  result  in  the  starvation  of  the  grass  ; 
and  we  shall  find  that  as  the  grasses  and  clovers  disappear  through 
the  exhaustion  of  the  soil,  daisies,  plantains,  knotgrass,  self-heal, 
and  other  weeds,  take  their  place.  The  simple  remedy  for  this  state 
of  things  is  manuring,  and  the  best  mode  of  manuring  is  to  scatter 
over  the  turf  a  succession  of  thin  dressings  of  guano  and  fine  mould 
mixed  together.  This  should  be  done  in  autumn  and  spring,  at 
times  when  there  is  not  much  traffic  on  the  grass,  and  there  is  a 
likelihood  of  rain  to  follow.  If  appearances  are  of  no  consequence  in 
the  later  autumn  or  early  spring  months,  a  good  coat  of  half-rotten 
manure  may  be  spread  over  the  turf,  but  this  proceeding  cannot  be 
recommended  for  general  adoption.  In  place  of  guano,  nitrate  of 
soda  or  nitrate  of  potash  may  be  employed,  being  first  mixed  with 
fine  earth  or  sand,  and  then  scattered  at  the  rate  of  one  pound  of 
nitrate  to  every  square  yard.  The  employment  of  an  alkali  will 
promote  the  growth  of  grass,  but  not  of  clover,  which  requires  the 
aid  of  phosphates.  A  cheap  and  most  serviceable  dressing  for  old 
lawns  may  be  occasionally  obtained  in  districts  where  building  works 
are  in  progress.  The  rubbish  should  be  screened,  to  separate  from 
it  the  dust  of  old  mortar,  plaster,  and  broken  brick  to  the  size  of 
walnuts  at  the  utmost.  This  may  be  spread  thinly  two  or  three 
times  in  autumn  and  spring,  and  will  greatly  benefit  the  texture 
and  density  of  the  turf.  It  cannot  be  said  that  in  British  gardens 
grass  is  generally  well  managed  and  properly  understood,  for  the 
lawn  is  the  last  place  on  which  either  manure  or  water  is  generously 
bestowed.  "We  may  ofttimes  see  the  flower-beds  deluged  with 
water  that  they  do  not  need,  while  the  grass  is  fast  parching  into  a 
hideous  condition  of  sterility.  If  we  could  persuade  the  industrious 
folks  to  spread  the  water,  by  means  of  a  hose,  over  the  grass 
two  or  three  times  a  week  during  summer,  and  give  the  geraniums 
none  at  all,  the  result  would  be  a  brighter  blaze  of  flowers 
in  a  rich  setting  of  delightfully  fresh  verdure,  instead  of,  per- 
haps, geraniums  growing  like  cabbages  and  scarcely  flowering  at 
all,  and  the  grass  becoming  as  thin  and  black  as  if  a  flame  had 
passed  over  it.  Two  contingencies  are  to  be  especially  guarded 
against  in  the  management  of  grass  turf — the  machine  must  be 
set  so  as  to  cut  fair,  and  it  must  be  kept  in  the  best  order 
by  constant  cleaning  and  oiling.     If  set  so  as  to  cut  very  close,  it 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  335 

will  occasionally  pare  off  the  surface  soil,  and  with  it  the  roots  of 
the  grasses  ;  many  a  good  lawn  has  been  ruined  by  the  foolish  practice 
of  making  the  machine  cut  as  close  as  possible,  under  the  absurd  im- 
pression that  one  cut  is  better  than  two.  The  more  cuts  the  better, 
provided  always  that  the  machine  is  properly  set  and  in  the  best 
working  order.  Another  mode  of  making  a  present  effect  at  the 
expense  of  the  lawn  consists  in  continually  cutting  afresh  edge  with 
the  edging  iron.  A  gardener  who  cuts  into  the  turf  on  the  edge  of 
the  lawn  to  make  a  finish  ought  to  be  compelled  to  eat  all  that  he 
removes.  If  the  practice  is  persisted  in,  the  grass  is  reduced  in 
breadth,  and  the  walk  is  widened,  and  in  time  there  is  formed  a  deep 
gutter  and  a  sharp  ugly  ridge.  If  properly  finished  at  the  edge  with 
the  shears,  the  width  of  walk  will  not  vary  an  inch  in  fifty  years. 
One  of  the  first  things  we  look  after  in  the  work  of  a  new  man  is 
his  management  of  the  edges  of  lawns,  and  we  are  always  careful  to 
explain  our  views  upon  the  subject  in  good  time  to  prevent  a  mis- 
chief which  cannot  be  easily  remedied.  The  man  who  persists  after 
warning  and  explanation  in  chop,  chop,  chopping  at  the  edge,  as  if  it 
were  necessary  to  construct  a  gutter  of  mud  on  each  side  of  a  walk, 
deserves  to  hear  an  opinion  of  his  procedure  that  will  make  him 
tingle  from  head  to  foot  with  shame.  The  jobbing  gardener  is  a 
master  of  this  chop-down-gutter-forming  business,  and  will  always 
be  ready  to  advise  the  employment  of  gravel  to  fill  up  the  trench 
that  should  never  have  been  made. 

It  may  be  well,  perhaps,  to  add  a  word  upon  the  employment  of 
spergula  for  lawns.  A  spergula  lawn  in  good  condition  is  one  of  the 
loveliest  embellishments  of  a  garden  that  can  be  conceived.  "We 
have  seen  many  so-called  spergula  lawns,  but  only  three  that  were 
good  enough  for  agreeable  remembrance.  The  whole  truth  of  the 
matter  may  be  summed  up  in  a  sentence :  A  spergula  lawn  demands 
constant  attention  and  is  of  necessity  a  troublesome  thing  to  form  in 
the  first  instance  and  to  manage  afterwards.  Therefore  for  what 
may  be  termed  "  general  usefulness "  we  cannot  recommend  the 
employment  of  spergula.  However,  any  of  our  readers  who  are 
inclined  to  indulge  in  this  unwonted  luxury  need  not  be  deterred 
through  supposing  there  is  any  mystery  at  the  bottom  of  success  • 
it  is  a  question  of  time  and  attention,  and  whenever  these  are  with- 
held the  spergula  lawn  will  go  to  ruin.  Prepare  the  ground  well 
and  plant  the  tufts  in  September  and  October,  or  in  March  and  April. 
Frequently  roll  the  ground  and  never  cease  to  pull  out  weeds  for 
these  are  the  chief  enemies  of  spergula.  One  season's  neglect  of 
weeding  will  ruin  a  spergula  lawn,  and  one  week's  neglect  at  a  time 
of  year  when  weeds  grow  freely  will  result  in  considerable  damage. 
As  for  worms,  which  also  injure  spergula  turf  by  their  casts  the 
roller  will  sufficiently  repair  the  damage  they  do,  but  if  any  nostrum 
is  required  to  reduce  their  number  there  can  be  nothing  better  than 
clear  lime-water,  for  while  thi3  kills  the  worms,  it  benefits  the 
spergula. 

As  the  formation  of  a  spergula  lawn  requires  much  patient  atten- 
tion, it  may  be  recommended  as  a  pastime  to  those  who  are  of  a 
temperament  suited  to  the  task  and  can  afford  the  time  that  must 


336  THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

be  devoted  to  it  for  a  satisfactory  result.  Our  advice  to  a  beginner, 
tired  with  enthusiasm  on  the  subject,  would  be  to  select  a  compara- 
tively small  piece  of  ground  in  the  first  instance,  in  order  to  obtain 
a  perfect  sample  of  spergula  turf  in  the  shortest  possible  time,  and 
acquire  thereby  the  experience  needful  for  a  greater  effort.  For 
those  who  practise  "  rough-and-ready  gardening  "  spergula  is  of  no 
use  at  all,  except  as  a  rock  plant  or  to  cover  a  knoll  on  which  a  tree 
is  planted,  and  for  such  other  odd  purposes,  where  a  close  turf 
capable  of  enduring  the  wear  and  tear  of  turf  constantly  trodden  on 
is  not  required. 

For  all  good  loamy  garden  soils,  the  best  grasses  to  form  a 
close,  fine  sward  are  the  following  : — Cynosurus  cristatus,  the  crested 
dog's-tail ;  Festuca  ovina,  the  sheep's  fescue ;  F.  tenuifolia,  the  fine- 
leaved  fescue ;  Lolium  perenne  tenue,  perennial  rye  grass ;  Poa 
pratensis,  smooth-stalked  meadow  grass  ;  Poa  sempervirens,  ever- 
green meadow  grass  ;  Poa  nemoralis,  woodside  meadow  grass  ;  Tri- 
folium repens  perenne,  perennial  white  clover ;  Trifolium  minus, 
yellow  suckling.  Sow  the  mixture  at  the  rate  of  3  bushels  (60  lbs.) 
to  the  English  acre,  or  1  gallon  (2|  lbs.)  to  6  rods  or  perches. 

For  a  stiff  soil  resting  on  clay,  a  good  mixture  would  consist 
of  Lolium  perenne,  perennial  rye  grass  ;  Poa  pratensis,  smooth-stalked 
meadow  grass  ;  Poa  trivialis,  rough-stalked  meadow  grass ;  Lolium 
perenne  tenue,  fine  rye  grass  ;  Festuca  duriuscula,  hard  fescue;  Tri- 
folium  repens,  white  clover;  Trifolium  minus,  yellow  suckling. 

For  a  light  sandy  soil  the  mixture  should  consist  of,  or  at  least 
comprise,  Lolium  perenne  tenue,  Poa  pratensis,  Festuca  duriuscula, 
Avena  flavescens,  the  yellowish  oat  grass ;  Trifolium  repens,  Lotus 
corniculatus,  the  bircl's-foot ;  Achillea  millefolia,  the  common  yarrow. 

For  a  thin  soil  besting  on  chalk  or  limestone,  the  selection 
should  comprise  Lolium  perenne  tenue,  Festuca  duriuscula,  F.  ovina, 
Poa  trivialis,  Cynosurus  cristatus,  Medicago  hipulina,  the  yellow 
medick  ;  Trifolium  repens,  T.  minus,  Lotus  corniculatus. 

For  a  collective  prescription  we  cannot  do  better  than  adopt  that 
recommended  by  Messrs.  Lawson  and  Son,  the  eminent  seedsmen  of 
London  and  Edinburgh.  The  several  quantities  of  the  several  sorts 
named  constitute  a  mixture  for  one  English  acre. 

Light  Soil.  Medium  Soil.  Heavy  Soil, 

lbs.  lbs.  lbs. 
Avena  flavescens              ...              ...     1                 0  0 

Cynosurus  cristatus  ...  ...      5  6  7 

Festuca  duriuscula  ...  ...      3    •  3  4 

Festuca  tenuifolia  ...  ...      2  2  1 

Lolium  perenne  tenue      ...  ...   20  20  20 

Poanemoralis  ...  ...     1^  1-j-  2 

Poa  nemoralis  sempervirens  ...     li  If  2 

Poa  trivialis    ...  •••     .  ...      1^  lj 

Trifolium  repens  ...  ...      7  7  7 

Trifolium  minus  ...  ...     2  2  1 

Under  trees  a  little  variation  of  the  mixture  must  be  adopted. 
Leave  out  the  two  species  of  Fescus,  and  substitute  similar  quantities 


THE    FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 


337 


of  Poa  nemoralis.  Indeed,  P.  nemoralis  angustifollum  is  the  best  of 
all  grasses  to  produce  a  beautiful  sward  under  trees,  its  growth 
being  so  close  that  it  displaces  weeds,  and  it  is  green  in  spring 
earlier  than  most  other  grasses  ;  and!  as  it  also  does  well  in  exposed 
places,  it  may  be  made  "  a  note  of,"  for  any  one,  at  this  season,  in  a 
state  of  distress  at  the  shabbiness  of  a  lawn.  Another  most  useful 
lawn  grass  is  Lulium  perenne  tenue,  but  as  it  is  twin  brother  of  that 
very  worst  of  lawn  grasses,  Lolium  perenne,  or  common  rye  grass, 
care  must  be  taken  to  obtain  the  right  sort.  It  thrives  on  almost 
any  soil  that  is  not  wet,  and  is  delightfully  fresh  all  the  winter. 

S.  H. 


THE  LADY'S  SLIPPER. 

BY    THOMAS    NOTT, 
Head  Gardener,  Foelardt  House,  Lee,  Kent. 

N  common  with  many  other  readers  of  the  Floral 
World,  I  was  very  much  interested  in  the  paper  on 
Orchids,  at  page  161,  contributed  by  Mr.  Gordon, 
because  of  its  practical  and  useful  character,  and  I  am 
desirous  of  supplementing  that  paper  with  a  few  remarks 

on  the  old  but  useful  Ci/pri- 

pedium    insigne,    or    Lady's 

Slipper.     It  is   not  perhaps 

so    showy   as    a    few    other 

members  of  the  genus,  but  it 

is  remarkably  beautiful,  and 

can  be  grown  in  a  green- 
house most  successfully  with 

the    least    possible     amount 

of   attention   and  skill.      It 

is,  however,  very  accommo- 
dating, for  it  will  be  equally 

at  home  in  the  stove  ;  indeed, 

until  within  the  last  few  years 

it  was  grown  exclusively  in 

the    stove,    and    even     now 

many   people   who    grow   it 

are  unaware  that  its  consti- 
tution is  sufficiently  hardy  to 

bear    the    exposure    to    the 

temperature  of  the  ordinary 

greenhouse  during  the  winter 

months  without  injury.     The 

figures  of  the  plant  and  flower 

which    accompany    these    remarks    will  convey    a   fair    idea    of  its 

general  character,  and  it  only  remains  to  be  said  that  the  prevail. u  <■ 

VOL.   VI. — NO.    XI.  22 


CYPRIPEDIUM    INSIGNE. 


338 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 


colours  of  the  flowers  are  brown,  green,  and  white,  and  that  it  pro- 
duces its  singularly-shaped  blooms  during  the  winter  months,  when 
flowers  are,  as  the  readers  of  this  are  well  aware,  comparatively 
scarce.  When  in  flower  it  may  be  employed  in  the  decoration  of 
indoor  apartments  most  advantageousle,  as  the  flowers  remain  fresh 
and  bright  for  a  considerable  period  if  care  is  taken  to  screen  the 
plants  from  cold  draughts,  and  to  protect  from  frost.  I  am  inclined 
to  think  that  it  may  be  grown  entirely  in  the  drawing-room  window, 
but  I  have  not  had  an  opportunity  for  conclusively  settling  that 
point, 


CTPRIPEDIUM    INSIGNB. 

It  would,  perhaps,  be  a  more  difficult  task  to  kill  it  than  to  grow 
it  well,  but  certainly  it  can  be  grown  to  the  highest  perfection  with 
the  most  simple  means.  The  pots  should  be  filled  about  half  full 
with  large  pieces  of  crocks ;  over  these  should  be  placed  a  layer  of 
tufts  of  fibrous  loam,  to  keep  the  compost — which  should  consist  of 
equal  parts  mellow  turfy  loam  and  small  crocks,  and  a  sprinkling  of 
nodules  of  charcoal — ;n  its  place.  In  repotting  specimens,  whether 
large  or  small,  loosen  the  roots  carefully  round  the  outside  of  the 
ball ;  remove  a  portion  of  the  old  worn-out  soil,  and  put  sufficient 
compost  on  the  crocks  employed  for  drainage,  to  elevate  the  base  ot 
the  plants  two  or  three  inches  above  the  rim.     The  soil  should  be 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  339 

packed  moderately  firm  between  the  old  ball  and  the  sides  of  the 
pot,  and  a  layer  should  also  be  packed  carefully  over  the  surface  to 
give  a  finish  to  the  work.  Some  growers  employ  peat,  or  peat  and 
sphagnum  moss  mixed;  butlprefer  the  compost  advised  above,  because 
loam  is  more  easily  obtained  in  most  localities  than  either  peat  or 
moss,  and  the  plants  thrive  in  it  quite  as  well,  even  if  they  do  not 
better. 

Moderate  supplies  of  water  are  necessary  during  the  growing 
season,  and  when  the  flowers  are  pushing  up  ;  but  during  the  winter, 
when  the  plants  are  at  rest,  the  soil  must  be  kept  rather  dry  ;  but  at 
no  time  must  it  be  allowed  to  become  dust  dry.  Free  exposure  to 
the  light  and  air  is  essential  during  the  summer  season,  and  during 
the  winter  they  should  be  fully  exposed  to  the  light,  but  be  protected 
from  currents  of  air  passing  through  the  house.  It  may  possibly  be 
of  interest  to  many  to  know  that  nice  little  plants  can  be  purchased 
at  many  nurseries  for  a  few  shillings. 


LITEEAET  NOTICES. 


|INCE  our  last  notices  a  number  of  interesting  books 
have  accumulated  on  our  table,  which  we  shall  dispose 
of  briefly,  but  with  a  view  to  indicate  our  estimation 
of  them  in  the  interests  of  our  readers.  Messrs. 
Warne  and  Co.  present  "  Hardy  Garden  Flowers,"  by 
Mr.  William  Robinson,  and  our  thanks  are  due  to  both  author  and 
publisher  for  an  invaluable  contribution  to  garden  literature  in  a 
most  convenient  and  elegant  form.  Very  few,  indeed,  amongst 
writers  on  gardening  are  so  well  fitted  to  produce  a  book  on  hardy 
flowers  as  Mr.  Robinson,  and  we  feel  that  he  has  done  justice  to 
himself  in  the  preparation  of  this  compact  volume.  It  comprises  g 
series  of  essays  on  the  claims  and  uses  of  hardy  plants,  and  tha 
disposal  of  them  in  the  parterre,  the  border,  the  rockery,  etc.,  etce 
and  an  alphabetical  arrangement  of  all  the  genera  that  are  entitled 
to  rank  as  ornamental  plants,  with  short  but  clear  descriptions  of  the 
most  attractive  species.  It  is  at  once  a  treatise  and  a  dictionary, 
and  so  densely  packed  with  information,  that  it  may  be  regarded  as 
a  model  of  a  multum  in  parvo.  Mr.  Goodwin  sends  "  The  Plain 
Path  to  Good  Gardening,"  by  Mr.  Samuel  Wood,  into  which  we 
have  dipped  and  have  been  gratified  by  the  author's  store  of  horti- 
cultural knowledge  and  happy  capability  of  advising  his  readers  for 
their  benefit.  The  several  chapters  range  through  all  the  depart- 
ments of  what  may  be  termed  a  middle  class  garden,  from  the  potato 
ground  to  the  orchard,  and  thence  through  the  flower  garden.  We 
may  employ  the  hacknied  phrase  "  plain  and  practical  "  in  reference 
to  its  contents  with  propriety,  and  it  is  but  just  to  add  that  it  is  also 
original  and  suggestive.  Should  another  edition  be  called  for,  the 
author  would  do  well  to  add  an  alphabetical  index.  Messrs.  Black- 
wood present  a  seventh  edition  of  Mr.  William  Thomson's  "  Treatise 


340  THE  FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

on  the  Grape  Vine,"  to  which  the  author  has  added  a  chapter  on  his 
new  method  of  preparing  vines  for  planting  out — a  method  he  has 
practised  with  singular  success  in  his  new  nursery,  wherein  vines 
and  pines  are  grown  extensively.  Messrs.  Low  and  Marston  present 
"  My  Summer  in  a  Garden,"  by  Mr.  Charles  Dudley  Warner,  a 
curious  example  of  the  mosb  refined  form  of  American  wit  and 
humour,  and  one  of  the  cheerfullest  books  we  have  read  for  many 
a  day.  It  is  quiet,  almost  sedate,  and  characterized  by  a  gentle- 
manly elegance.  But  its  undercurrent  of  sarcasm,  its  quaint 
ebullitions  of  fun,  its  serious  propounding  of  original  things,  and  its 
scintillations  of  pure  humour,  will  insure  it  everywhere  a  joyful 
reception,  and  all  who  read  the  first  page  will  be  pleasantly  spell- 
bound to  the  last.  Messrs.  Groombridge  and  Sons  send  a  set  of 
"  Cuthill's  Garden  Manuals,"  and  "  Market  Gardening,"  the  fame 
of  which  has  gone  abroad  long  since,  and  established  them  as 
standard  books  of  their  class.  Mr.  Cuthill  was  a  successful  prac- 
titioner, and  bad  a  happy  knack  of  writing  small  books  in  which,  as 
one  might  say,  "  at  a  stroke,"  he  initiates  his  readev  into  the  art  of 
productive  gardening  with  the  least  imaginable  fear  of  being  mis- 
understood. Those  who  look  for  profit  from  a  garden  may  find  it 
the  quicker  for  taking  counsel  of  Mr.  Cuthill.  From  the  same 
publishers  we  are  favoured  wi^h  two  little  books  by  Mr.  Piper,  one 
on  "  The  Management  of  Poultry,"  the  other  on  "  The  Management 
of  Pigeons."  They  are  admirable  so  far  as  they  go,  and  they  go  far 
enough  for  the  thousands  who  keep  poultry  and  pigeons  for  recrea- 
tion chiefly,  but  not  without  the  hope  of  obtaining  from  their  pets 
some  more  substantial  rewards  for  the  care  bestowed  upon  them. 
Mr.  Piper  has  the  advantage  of  a  thorough  practical  acquaintance 
with  his  subjects,  and  the  rare  tact  of  keeping  to  himself  things  that 
few  need  to  know,  in  order  to  do  justice  to  those  matters  which  have 
universal  interest.  We  advise  those  who  are  at  all  interested  in 
poultry  and  pigeons  to  make  acquaintance  at  once  with  these  pretty 
brochures,  either  of  which  may  be  read  in  an  hour,  and  will  then  be 
read  again,  and  frequently  referred  to  for  the  advantage  of  their 
wise  counsels.  "The  Amateur's  Flower  Garden,"  by  Shirley  Hibberd, 
can  only  be  announced  as  ready  for  those  who  want  it.  If  the 
appreciation  of  the  public  is  at  all  commensurate  with  the  care  the 
author  has  taken  to  adapt  his  teachings  to  the  range  of  amateur 
practice,  the  book  will  be  in  demand  for  many  a  year  to  come;  but 
on  that  point,  and  on  every  point  of  its  merits  and  demerits  (if  it  has 
either),  other  pens  may  deal  as  it  may  please  them  ;  it  is  enough  that 
we  inform  our  readers  that  we  have  sought  in  this  work  to  fill  an 
evident  gap  in  the  eclectic  garden  library.  Messrs.  Groombridge's 
"  Coloured  Prints  "  are  showy  and  good,  in  many  instances  remark- 
ably good,  and  they  comprise  a  capital  series  of  subjects,  flowers, 
birds,  figures,  insects,  shells,  scenes,  and  museum  curiosities.  Those 
who  roake  up  scrap  books  and  screens,  and  embellish  school-rooms 
ar>&  hospital  wards,  would  do  well  to  become  acquainted  with  them, 
for  they  are  cheap  enough  and  good  enough  for  any  purpose  for 
w  hich  pictures  of  small  size  may  be  required. 


THE    FLORAL    WORLD    AND   GARDEN    GUIDE.  341 

BEDDING  SUCCULENTS. 

BY    WILLIAM    COLE, 

Head  Gardener,  Ealing  Park,  Middlesex. 

VERY  considerable  number  of  succulent  plants  may  be 
employed  in  the  embellishment  of  the  flower  garden 
during  the  summer  months,  but  it  is  only  of  the  most 
useful  kinds  such  as  Echeveria  secunda  glanca,  Semper- 
vivum  C 'ali fomic um,  and  Sedum  glaucum,  that  I  purpose 
speaking.  The  value  of  those  best  adapted,  from  the  character  of 
their  growth,  for  bedding  purposes,  is  now  too  well  known  to 
require  a  word  being  said  in  their  praise,  and  all  that  it  is  necessary 
to  do  now  is  to  point  out  the  purposes  for  which  they  are  best 
adapted,  and  the  quickest  mode  of  raiding  a  stock.  We  will  com- 
mence with  the  Echeveria.  The  beautiful  E.  secunda  glauca  is,  as  the 
majority  of  readers  of  this  are  well  aware,  one  of  if  not  the  best 
plant  for  edging  purposes  we  have.  It  is  not  only  effective  in 
appearance,  but  it  is  so  neat  in  growth  that  from  the  time  it  is 
planted  in  the  early  part  of  the  summer  until  the  autumn,  it  requires 
no  attention  whatever,  which,  to  both  large  and  small  growers,  is  a 
matter  of  considerable  importance.  The  green-leaved  E.  secunda 
is  also  very  valuable  for  many  purposes,  although  not  so  generally 
useful  as  its  glaucous-leaved  variety.  It  forms  a  nice  marginal  line 
to  beds  edged  with  light  terra  cotta  tiles,  and  it  may  also  be  frequently 
employed  with  advantage  in  forming  divisional  lines  in  panel  beds. 
The  pretty  E.pumila  has  glaucous  foliage,  and  is  useful  for  marginal 
lines  to  small  beds.  It  forms  a  very  considerable  number  of  offsets, 
which  somewhat  mar  the  symmetry  of  the  plant,  and  for  that  reason 
is  not  so  desirable  as  E.  secunda  glauca.  The  noble  E.  glauca  metallica 
is  a  most  decided  acquisition  to  the  list  of  bedding  succulents.  In 
growth  it  somewhat  resembles  E.  metallica,  but  it  is  more  compact 
and  has  glaucous  foliage.  For  edging  large  beds,  or  for  divisional 
lines  in  panel  beds,  it  is  most  valuable,  and  it  would  be  difficult  to 
over-praise  it.  E.  metallica  is  best  adapted  for  planting  in  the 
centre  of  medium-sized  beds,  or  in  small  beds  by  itself.  It  has  a 
very  striking  appearance  when  planted,  at  moderate  distances  apart, 
in  a  bed  carpeted  with  some  dwarf-growing  succulent,  such  as  Sedum 
glaucum.  Last  summer  we  planted  some  very  large  and  well-de- 
veloped specimens,  at  a  distance  of  about  two  feet  apart,  in  a  bed 
filled  with  Pyrethrum  Golden  Feather,  and  the  effect  was  remarkably 
striking.  Medium-sized  plants  are  also  useful  for  first  and  second 
rows  in  beds  planted  with  tall-growing  subjects. 

The  simplest  way  of  increasing  the  stock  of  E.  secunda,  and 
others  of  a  similar  habit  of  growth,  is  by  means  of  offsets,  taken 
oft' just  before  or  when  the  plants  are  removed  from  their  summer 
quarters.  It  is  essential  to  slip  them  off  carefully  to  prevent  injury 
to  the  parent  stem.  It  is  a  matter  of  little  consequence  whether 
they  are  put  in  singly  in  small  pots,  or  whether  they  are  planted 
rather  close  together  in  shallow  boxes.     The  boxes  are  preferable, 


342  THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND   GARDEN    GUIDE. 

for  one  of  a  medium  size  will  hold  a  large  number  of  plants,  and 
several  hundred  can  be  wintered  in  a  very  small  space.  The  distance 
at  which  they  must  be  put  apart  in  the  boxes  must,  of  necessity,  be 
regulated  by  their  size  ;  but  as  a  rule  a  distance  of  two  inches  each 
way  will  be  ample.  The  soil  used  for  filling  the  pots  and  boxes 
should  be  rather  light  and  sandy,  and  no  more  water  should  be 
applied  than  is  sufficient  to  keep  it  just  moist,  for  it  will  be  safer  to 
allow  it  to  become  dust  dry  than  for  it  to  be  kept  too  wet.  Towards 
the  end  of  February,  they  can  be  potted  off  singly,  and  a  rather 
richer  compost  employed. 

As  the  two  last-mentioned  sorts  do  not  produce  offsets  in  the 
same  manner  as  the  others,  they  must  be  propagated  either  by 
means  of  leaf-cuttings  or  seed.  The  others  may  also  be  propagated 
in  the  same  way  when  it  is  considered  desirable  to  raise  a  stock  by 
a  quicker  method  than  that  afforded  by  the  offsets.  The  leaves 
produced  on  the  flower-stems  of  E.  metallica  are  the  most  desirable, 
although  the  others  strike  freely.  The  autumn  is  the  most  suitable 
season  of  the  year  for  striking  the  leaves,  as  they  are  then  firm  and 
matured,  and  are  not  so  liable  to  damp  off  as  when  taken  earlier  in 
the  season  in  a  partially  developed  state.  They  should  be  slipped 
off  carefully  with  the  hand  and  then  inserted  rather  close  together 
in  cutting  pots  or  pans  filled  with  a  light  sandy  compost.  It  is 
essential  in  inserting  them  to  make  them  firm,  and  if  the  leaves  are 
large  and  likely  to  become  loosened  in  moving  the  cutting  pot 
about,  thrust  a  small  piece  of  stick  through  the  leaf  and  into  the 
soil  to  keep  it  steady.  The  leaves  of  the  smaller  growers,  such  as 
E.  secunda  glauca,  if  inserted  moderately  deep  in  the  soil,  will  not 
require  the  aid  of  pegs  to  hold  them  firm.  The  warmest  end  of  a 
light  airy  greenhouse  is  the  most  suitable  place  for  the  cutting  pots ; 
the  cuttings  will  not  strike  so  quickly  as  they  would  do  in  a  warmer 
temperature,  but  there  will  not,  if  the  soil  is  not  kept  too  moist,  be 
so  much  danger  of  their  perishing.  All  decaying  leaves  should  be 
removed  as  soon  as  symptoms  of  decay  are  perceptible,  to  prevent 
their  injuring  the  others.  They  should  be  potted  off  singly  as  soon 
as  the  young  plants,  which  push  from  the  base  of  the  leaf,  are  well 
above  the  surface. 

Echeveria  seed  is  very  minute,  and  a  considerable  amount  of  care 
is  necessary  in  sowing  it.  The  compost  with  which  the  seed  pots 
are  filled  should  consist  of  mellow  loam,  with  which  a  liberal  quan- 
tity of  leaf-mould  and  silver  sand  has  been  mixed,  and  to  be  made 
perfectly  level  on  the  surface.  Sow  the  seed  regularly  and  then 
cover  with  a  layer  of  moss,  and  over  that  put  a  sheet  of  glass.  The 
moss  will  materially  aid  in  preventing  the  soil  drying  up  quickly, 
and  when  water  is  required  it  can  be  applied  by  sprinkling  the  moss 
without  displacing  the  seed.  A  sharp  look-out  must  be  kept  for 
the  appearance  of  the  young  plants,  and  the  moss  must  be  removed 
immediately  they  can  be  seen.  The  glass  should  be  left  on  for  a 
week  or  so  afterwards,  and  two  or  three  days  previous  to  its 
removal  it  should  be  tilted  on  one  side  to  gradually  inure  the  young 
plants  to  the  air.  They  should  be  allowed  to  become  strong  before 
they  are  pricked  off,  but  of  course  they  must  not  remain  until  they 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE.  343 

injure  each  other.  Seed  sown  in  the  spring  and  the  seed  pots  placed 
in  a  temperature  of  70°  will  germinate  in  about  three  days,  and  the 
plants  ready  to  prick  off  in  less  than  three  weeks.  They  can  then 
be  potted  off  when  of  a  moderate  size,  or  they  can  be  planted  out  in 
the  flower  garden  from  the  boxes. 

Sedtjms. — The  best  of  the  stonecrops  for  bedding  are  8.  An- 
glicum,  bright  green  :  8.  glaucum,  greyish  white  ;  and  8.  pulchellum, 
green.  These  are  all  of  dwarf  spreading  growth,  hardy,  and  can  be 
increased  by  dividing  the  tufts. 

Sehpeevivums. — The  best  of  all  for  bedding  is  8.  Califomicum  ; 
it  is  of  a  very  deep,  rich  tint  of  green,  and  the  points  of  the  leaves 
are  tipped  with  reddish  brown.  Full-grown  plants  form  a  charming 
edging.  S.  montanum,  bright  green,  is-  very  neat,  and  useful  tor 
edging  small  beds.  S.  umUlicus'mOT  ckrysanthus,  deep  green,  is  also 
useful,  although  less  useful  than  either  of  the  preceding.^  All  the 
above  are  propagated  by  means  of  the  offsets,  and  are  quite  hardy. 

Distinct  from  the  above  are  8.  arboreum  atropurpureum,  deep 
bronzy  green ;  8.  tortuosum,  green ;  8.  Donckelaari,  deep  green ; 
all  of  which  are  useful  for  centres  of  beds,  and  require  the  protec- 
tion of  a  greenhouse  during  the  winter  season.  The  variegated 
variety  of  the  Tree  Houseleek,  8.  arboreum  variegatum,  is  remark- 
ably distinct  and  beautiful,  but  as  yet  it  has  not  had  a  full  trial  in 
the  flower  garden. 

THE  GARDEN  GUIDE  FOR  NOVEMBER. 

Flowee  Gaeden. — The  weather  has  been  so  mild   and   open 
during  the  past  month  that  the  spring-flowering  plants  with  which 
beds  were  filled  in  the  middle  of  the  month,  in  accordance  with  the 
advice  given  in  our  last  number,  are  now  nicely  established,  and 
growing  freely.     There  is  yet  time  to  plant  a  greater  part  of  the 
subjects  named,  if  done  quickly.     Also  plant  Hyacinths  and  other 
bulbs   as  soon  as   possible,   for  although  moderately  good  flowers 
may  be  had  from  bulbs  planted  at   Christmas,  they  will  be  inferior 
to  those  produced  by  bulbs  of  a  corresponding  quality  planted  two 
or  three  months  earlier.     This  is   also  a   good    season  of   the  year 
for  taking  up,  dividing,  and  replanting   Lilies  of  all  kinds.     They 
are  now  beginning  to  make  fresh  roots,  and  will  not  feel  the  shift 
so  much  as  when  disturbed  in  the  spring.    The  soil  should  be  trenched 
up,  and  a  liberal  dressing  of  manure  applied.     Like  all  other  plants, 
these  exhaust  the  soil  of  the  elements  required  for   their  growth, 
and  unless  renewed,  it  is  impossible  for  them  to  make  a  vigorous 
growth.     Push  on  the  planting  of  evergreen  and  deciduous  trees 
and  shrubs  as  fast  as  possible,  so  as  to  get  them  in  their  places 
before   the   rains    cool   the  earth    too   much.      When  the  weather 
renders  it  necessary  to  take   up  the  Dahlia  tubers,   cut  the   stem 
down  to  within  six  or  nine  inches  of  the  ground,  and,  after  taking 
them  up  carefully,  place  them  in  a  cool  dry  place,  where  they  will 
be  secure  from  frost.     All  tender  or  half-hardy  plants  must  now  be 
got  under  cover,  but  admit  a  free  circulation  of  air  about  them  in 


344  THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

favourable  weather.  Take  up  and  divide  herbaceous  plants,  keep 
them  out  of  the  ground  as  short  a  space  of  time  as  possible,  and 
take  advantage  of  the  opportunity  for  digging  the  ground  up  deeply, 
and  applying  a  dressing  of  manure,  or  fresh  soil,  or  a  mixture  of 
both.  Frequently  sweep  and  roll  the  lawns  and  paths  to  give  them 
a  fresh  and  bright  appearance,  and  carefully  preserve  the  fallen 
leaves  for  rotting  down  to  leaf-mould. 

Kitchen  Garden. — Lift  full-grown  Lettuce  and  Endive,  with 
a  good  ball  of  soil,  and  place  them  rather  close  together  in  a  cold 
frame  or  orchard-house,  where  they  will  be  secure  from  frost. 
Dampness  is  the  greatest  enemy  these  subjects  have  to  contend  with 
at  this  season,  and  provided  they  can  be  kept  dry  by  any  means,  a 
few  degrees  of  frost  will  do  them  no  harm.  Look  sharp  after  Cauli- 
flower and  Lettuce  plants  in  frames,  and  remove  every  trace  of 
mildew  and  decay  directly  it  makes  its  appearance.  Give  full  admis- 
sion to  the  air,  but  keep  the  foliage  dry,  and  protect  from  frost. 

Fruit  Garden. — Fruit-trees  growing  too  luxuriantly  must  be 
root-pruned,  and  this  is  the  best  season  of  the  whole  year  for  per- 
forming that  operation.  Trees  that  have  been  undisturbed  for 
many  years  past  must  be  cautiously  dealt  with,  and  have  only  half 
the  roots  pruned  now,  reserving  the  other  for  next  season.  More 
recently  planted  trees  may  have  the  whole  of  the  roots  cut  in  at  once. 
Open  out  a  trench  at  a  distance  of  two  or  three  feet  from  the  stem, 
according  to  the  age  of  the  tree,  and  after  going  deep  enough  to 
reach  all  the  horizontal  roots,  work  the  spade  underneath  the  ball  to 
sever  the  tap-roots,  which  materially  assist  the  production  of  grossr 
badly-matured  wood. 

Greenhouse. — Guard  against  a  damp  stagnant  atmosphere  in 
this  structure.  Water  the  plants  carefully,  and  without  throwing 
much  water  upon  the  floor.  When  the  atmosphere  appears  damp 
and  stagnant,  light  a  fire  in  the  morning  of  a  fine  day,  and  open  the 
ventilators  at  the  same  time,  to  enable  the  impure  air  to  escape,  and 
admit  a  fresh  supply  to  take  its  place.  Remove  all  decayed  leaves, 
and  train  into  shape  Azaleas  and  other  plants  that  need  that  atten- 
tion. Keep  Ericas,  Epacris,  and  other  plants  of  a  like  nature,  at 
the  coolest  end  of  the  house,  and  such  things  as  Chinese  Primulas 
and  Cyclamens  at  the  warmest  end.  The  conservatory  should  now 
be  gay  with  Chrysanthemums.  Maintain  a  dry  atmosphere.  Gold 
and  Silver  Zonal  and  Show  and  Fancy  Pelargoniums  must  be  kept 
in  a  temperature  of  about  40°  or  45°  near  the  glass,  and  sheltered 
from  cold  currents  of  air. 

Stove. — Reduce  the  temperature  of  this  structure  to  an  average 
of  60°,  with  fire-heat  alone,  and  a  rise  of  five  degrees  with  the  aid 
of  sun-hpat.  Keep  the  atmosphere  much  drier  than  hitherto,  and 
water  early  in  the  morning,  to  enable  the  dampness  therefrom  to 
dry  up  before  evening.  Ferns  must  be  carefully  handled  just  now, 
a  thorough  rest  is  nearly  as  essential  to  their  well-being  as  it  is  to 
flowering  plants  ;  but  whilst  guarding  against  giving  them  too  much 
water,  carefully  avoid  their  suffering  for  the  want  of  that  element. 
Orchids  with  fleshy  pseudo-bulbs,  like  the  Cattleyas,  require  just 
sufficient  to  keep  them  fresh  and  plump,  but  the  Vandas,  and  others 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND   GARDEN   GUIDE.  345 

of  like  habit,  will  require  rather  more.  Encourage  winter-flowering 
plants  by  placing  them  in  the  warmest  corner  of  the  house. 

Forcing. — House  strawberrv-plants,  or  if  the  room  cannot  be 
spared  indoors,  form  a  stack  out  of  doors,  which  can  be  easily  accom- 
plished by  laying  the  pots  on  their  sides  in  layers  one  above  the 
other.  Prune  Vines,  Peaches,  and  Nectarines  at  once,  thoroughly 
wash  every  particle  of  wood  with  warm  water  and  soft  soap,  and 
then  dress  with  Fowler's  Insecticide  or  Gishurst's  Compound.  Pines 
must  be  kept  quiet,  and  the  atmosphere  of  all  departments  rather 
dry.  The  most  suitable  temperature  for  this  and  the  next  month  is 
60'  for  suckers  and  succession  plants,  and  70°  for  fruiting  plants. 
Winter  Cucumbers  must  have  a  genial  growing  temperature,  and 
means  should  be  adopted  for  covering  the  lights  in  very  sharp 
weather,  to  render  less  fire-heat  necessary  for  maintaining  the  proper 
temperature ;  both  as  a  matter  of  economy,  and  for  the  sake  of  the 
health  of  the  plants,  maintain  a  steady  temperature  of  about  50°,  and 
keep  the  beds  in  a  moderately  moist  condition. 

Pits  and  Frames. — Auriculas  must  have  air  night  and  day  in 
fine  mild  weather,  and  only  have  sufficient  water  to  prevent  the 
foliage  becoming  flaccid.  The  foliage  must  not  be  wetted  on  any 
consideration.  Carnations,  Pansies,  and  Picotees  only  require  pro- 
tecting from  wet  and  frost,  therefore  the  lights  can  be  drawn  off 
entirely  in  fine  weather,  and  tilted  at  the  back  in  mild  wet  weather. 
The  stock  of  bedding  plants  must  be  frequently  examined,  and  every 
attention  paid  to  keep  them  clean  and  healthy.  Mildew  commits 
terrible  havoc  among  the  Verbenas  at  this  season  of  the  year,  if 
allowed  to  get  ahead  ;  but  if  taken  in  time,  and  the  foliage  dusted 
with  sulphur,  it  is  comparatively  harmless.  Bedding  Geraniums  of 
all  kinds  need  very  little  water  just  now,  and  if  the  leaves  do  flag  a 
little  now  and  then,  it  is  of  no  consequence.  It  is  far  better  to  let 
them  flag  than  to  keep  the  soil  too  moist,  or  to  give  water  in  damp 
or  dull  weather. 


HORTICULTURAL   NOTES. 


[HE  only  horticultural  exhibition  of  note  held  during  the 
month  of  October  was  the  International  Fruit  Show 
held  at  South  Kensington  on  the  4th,  which  was  one  of 
the  largest  exhibitions  of  fruit  ever  held  in  this  country, 
and  the  largest  which  has  occurred  since  1862.  In  a 
few  particulars  it  was  not  so  satisfactory  as  it  might  have  been,  for, 
with  but  few  exceptions,  unlimited  collections  alone  were  invited  by 
the  schedule,  and  the  residt  w*as  the  exhibition  of  a  considerable 
bulk  of  fruit  of  second  and  third-rate  quality.  Some  of  the  collec- 
tions of  apples  and  pears  were  exceedingly  large,  and  consisted  of 
between  two  and  three  hundred  dishes  of  reputed  varieties.  Some 
of  the  collections  of  grapes  were  also  very  fine,  and  comprised 
examples  of  all  the  best  varieties  in  cultivation.  Pines,  peaches,  and 
miscellaneous  fruits  were  not  invited  by  the  schedule,  but  several 


346  THE   FLORAL   WOULD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

interesting  exhibits  were  staged,  including  amongst  others  a  collec- 
tion of  filberts  and  cob-nuts,  from  Mr.  Richard  "Webb,  Calcot 
Gardens,  Reading,  who  devotes  much  time  and  attention  to  these 
fruits  ;  fruit-bearing  branches  of  raspberry,  Belle  de  Fontenay,  which 
is  undoubtedly  the  best  of  all  the  autumn  varieties,  from  Mr. 
Charles  Turner,  Slough  ;  a  fine  collection  of  peaches  from  Mr.  Jack, 
Battle  Abbey  Gardens  ;  three  pines,  all  large  in  size  and  handsome 
in  appearance,  from  Mr.  Miles,  Wycombe  Abbey ;  and  a  superb 
collection  of  miscellaneous  fruits  from  Mr.  Pragnall,  Sherborne 
Castle. 

The  gold  medal  offered  for  a  collection  of  grapes  was  taken  by 
Messrs.  Lane  and  Son,  Great  Berkhampstead,  with  one  of  the  finest 
collections  ever  exhibited.  The  bunches  were  large  and  well- 
shouldered,  and  the  berries  in  size,  colour,  and  finish,  left  nothing  to 
be  desired.  The  most  conspicuous  examples  in  the  collection  were 
those  of  Trebbiano,  Bowood  Muscat,  Buckhardt's  Prince,  Black 
Prince,  West's  St.  Peter's,  Black  Hamburgh,  Frankenthal,  Barba- 
rossa,  Muscat  Hamburgh,  Mill  Hill  Hamburgh,  Lady  Downes' 
Seedling,  Alicante,  Muscat  of  Alexandria,  Buckland  Sweetwater, 
Golden  Champion,  and  Pope's  Hamburgh,  all  of  which  are  good  in 
their  several  seasons  of  attaining  maturity,  and  the  style  of  culture 
to  which  they  are  best  adapted.  The  largest  bunch  of  grapes  in  the 
exhibition  was  that  of  the  Black  Barbarossa,  exhibited  by  Mr.  Ban- 
nerman,  Blithsfield,  and  the  best  flavoured  bunch  was  that  of  the 
luscious  Muscat  of  Alexandria,  exhibited  by  Messrs.  Lane. 

The  most  complete  collection  of  pears  was  exhibited  by  MM. 
Baltet  Freres,  of  Troves,  Prance,  who  also  bad  the  best  collection  of 
dessert  varieties  ;  and  amongst  others,  exhibited  examples  of  the 
following  dessert  varieties  : — Knight's  Monarch,  Thompson's  Winter 
Nelis,  Passe  Col  mar,  Beurre  de  Capiaumont,  Louise  Bonne  of  Jersey, 
Beurre  Diel,  Williams's  Bon  Chretien,  Calebasse,  Beurre  Easter, 
Althorpe  Crassane,  Beurre  Brown,  Gansel's  Winter  Bergamot,  Glou 
Morceau,  Ne  Plus  Meuris,  Marie  Louise,  Duchesse  d'Angouleme, 
Jersey  Gratioli,  Beurre  Clairgeau,  Beurre  d'Amanlis,  Eyewood, 
Fondante  d'Automne,  Hacon's  incomparable,  Suffolk  Thorn,  Seckle, 
Colmar  d'Aremberg,  Alexander  Lanibre,  Huy  she's  Bergamot, 
Bishop's  Thumb,  Priuce  Albert,  Flemish  Beauty,  Bergamot  d'Espe- 
ren,  Napoleon,  Swan's  Egg,  Due  de  Moray,  Prince  Imperial, 
Souvenir  de  Leopold  I.,  British  Queen,  Marechal  Vaillant,  General 
Todleben,  Van  Mons,  Crassane  d'  Hardenpont,  Beurre  Sterckmans, 
Bon  Chretien  d'Espagne,  Beurre  Bruxelles,  Beurre  Bachelier,  Bezi 
Mai,  Doyeune  Goubalt,  Doyenne  du  Cornice,  General  Laurent, 
Helene  Gregoire,  Henri  Gregoire,  Louise  de  Prusse,  Belle  de  Sep- 
tembre,  Colmar  d'Ete,  Madame  Millet,  Beurre  Lamy,  Jalousie  de 
Fontenay,  Beurre  Dubort,  Conseiller  de  la  Cour. 

MM.  Baltet  Freres  also  exhibited  a  fine  lot  of  apples  in  the 
class  for  the  most  complete  collection,  but  the  gold  medal  was  most 
deservedly  awarded  to  Mr.  William  Paul,  of  Waltham  Cross,  whose 
collection,  although  not  quite  so  large,  comprised  examples  of  the 
finest  quality  of  the  leading  sorts  in  cultivation  in  this  country.  In 
the  class  for  dessert  varieties  the  first  prize  was  awarded  to  Mr. 


THE  FLORAL    WORLD   AND   GARDEN    GUIDE.  3  47 

Chaffe,  Carshalton  ;  and  in  the  class  for  culinary  varieties,  the  post 
of  honour  was  worthily  occupied  by  Mr.  G.  Ford,  Leonardslee. 

The  best  of  the  dessert  varieties  staged  were  Court  of  Wick, 
Early  Nonpareil,  Court  Pendu  Plat,  Petwortli  Nonpareil,  Gravenstein, 
Cox's  Orange  Pippin,  Golden  Harvey,  Cornish  Gilliflower,  Lemon 
Pippin,  Sam  Young,  Blenheim  Orange,  Golden  Drop,  Golden 
Pippin,  J.VI  argil,  Duke  of  Devonshire,  King  of  the  Pippins, 
Reinette  Van  Mons,  Adams's  Pearmain,  Golden  Harvey,  Syke 
House  Russet,  Remington's  Seedling,  Golden  Russet,  Sturmer 
Pippin,  and  Boston  Russet. 

And  of  culinary  apples  the  best  were  Reinette  du  Canada,  Forge 
Pippin,  Cockpit,  Keswick  Codlin,  Mere  de  Menage,  Cox's  Pomona, 
Winter  Greening,  Gloria  Mundi,  Spanish  Pippin,  Flower  of  Kent, 
Allman's  Russet,  Winter  Pearmain,  Nonesuch,  Warner's  King, 
Hawthornden,  Ashridge  Pine-apple  Pippin,  White  Devonshire,  Nor- 
folk Beefing,  Brabant  Bellefleur,  French  Crab,  Newtown  Pippin, 
Emperor  Alexander,  Lord  Suffield,  Red  Streak,  Golden  Noble,  Wal- 
tham  Abbey,  Lamb  Abbey  Pearmain,  Herefordshire  Pearmain,  King 
of  the  Pippins,  Nelson's  Codlin,  Summer  Scarlet  Pearmain,  Lord 
Grosvenor,  Kentish  Fillbasket,  Gravestein,  Calville  Blanche,  and 
Alfreston. 

At  the  same  meeting  the  Messrs.  Yeitch  and  Sons  exhibited  fine 
collections  of  Garden  Beet  and  Endive.  Amongst  the  former  were 
well-grown  specimens  of  the  undermentioned  useful  kinds,  namely, 
Dell's  Crimson,  Clayton's  Red,  Dewar's  Dwarf  Red,  Pine-apple 
Short-top,  Cattell's  Crimson,  and  Spanish  Beet.  The  collection  of 
Endive  comprises  examples  of  Fraser's  Broad-leaved  and  White 
Batavian,  Digswell  Prize,  Moss  Curled,  and  White  and  Green 
Curled,  all  of  which  are  good  useful  sorts  ;  the  first  and  third  on  the 
list  being  especially  valuable  for  winter  use. 

I  have  recently  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  Cannell's  new 
boiler,  or  "hot-water  circulator"  at  work  in  the  nursery  of  the 
inventor  at  Woolwich,  and  a  more  thoroughly  efficient  boiler  cannot 
be  imagined ;  for  it  is  so  constructed  that  the  largest  amount  of  heat 
possible  is  extracted  from  the  fire,  aud  as  it  is  wholly  confined 
within  the  boiler  or  water  spaces,  all  waste  is  prevented,  and  it  may 
be  safely  pronounced  the  most  economical  boiler  made ;  those  who 
are  interested  in  the  matter  will  do  well  to  see  it  at  work. 

G.  G. 


Veronica  incana. — J.  B.,  Glamorganshire. — This  useful  edging  plant  is  now 
rather  plentiful  in  the  trade,  but  it  may  not  be  possible  to  procure  it  of  all  local 
nurserymen.  If  you  experience  any  difficulty  in  the  matter,  try  Cannell,  of  the 
Station  Road  Nursery,  Woolwich,  or  Henderson's,  of  St.  John's  Wood.  Seed  is 
not  procurable,  so  far  as  we  are  aware,  in  the  ordinary  course  of  trade.  We  cannot 
answer  correspondents  through  the  post. 

Climbing  Roses. —  C.  A.  P. —  Coupe  de  Hebe,  Glory  of  Waltham,  Prince 
Leopold,  Red  Rover,  and  Climbing  Dtvoniensis,  are  all  suitable  for  covering  the 
arch.  Princess  Louise  Victoria,  now  in  course  of  distribution  by  Mr.  Knight,  of 
Hailsham,  Sussex,  is  also  a  fine  climber,  and  suitable  for  the  most  select  positions. 
It  is  vigorous  in  growth,  and  produces  its  flowers  in  large  clusters  throughout  the 
season. 


348 


THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND   GARDEN   GUIDE. 


1ST  FOH  PURCHAS] 

MTS.  SEEDS.  EfL 


SELECT  FRUITS  FOR  THE  GARDEN  AND 
ORCHARD. 

APPLES  FOB  ORCHARD  PLANTING. 

Alffeston,  Bedfordshire Foundling.'Bess  Pool, 

p_ir;r    Blenheim  Orange,  Court  of  Wick,  Dumelow's 

gS?  Seedling,  Devonshire  Quanenden,  Dutch  Cod- 

^"      ling,    Fearn's    l'ippin,    Forge,     French   Crab, 

Golden    Noble,     Golden    Reinette,  Gooseberry 

Pippin,  Hawthornden,  Hanwell  Souring,  Kerry 

Pippin,    London  Pippin,    Nonpareil,     Norfolk 

Bearer,  Northern  Greening,   Pott's    Seedling,    Sturmer  Pippin,  Syke- 

se   Russet,  Ward's   Pippin,  Winter  Peat-main,  Yorkshire  Greening. 

APPLES   (DESSERT)    FOR    GROWING    AS    PYRAMIDS    AND    BUSHES. 

Ashmead's  Kernel,  Beauty  of  Kent,  Braddick's  Nonpareil,  Cellini,  Cornish 
Gdliflower,  Cox's  Orange  Pippin,  Court  Penduplat,  Early  Harvest,  Early  Nonpareil, 
Knight's  Downton  Pippin,  Golden  Harvey,  Juneating,  Hubbard's  Pearmain,  New- 
town Pippin,  Lord  Burleigh,  Lord  Suffie'd,  Nonsuch,  Northern  Spy,  Reinette  du 
Canada,  Ribston  Pippin,  Scarlet  Nonpareil,  Waterloo,  Wyken  Pippin. 

APPLES    FOR   VERY    EXPOSED     SITUATIONS. 

Carlisle  Codling,  K  ;  Devonshire  Quarrenden,  D  ;  Early  Jnlien,  D  ;  Franklin's 
Golden  Pippin;  French  Crab,  K;  Hawthornden,  K;  Kerry  Pippin,  D;  Keswick 
Codling,  K;  London  Pippin,  K:  Manx  Codling,  K;  Margil,  D;  Nonsuch,  D; 
Summer  Strawberry,  Dj  Sykehouse  Russet,  D ;  Tower  of  Glammis,  Yorkshire 
Greening,  K. 

CHERRIES    FOB    GAEDENS,    BEST    TWELVE. 

Early  Purple  Gean,  D;  Belle  d'Orl^ans,  D  ;  Black  Tartarian,  D ;  May  Duke, 
D  ;  Black  Eagle  ;  Bigarreau  Napoleon,  D;  Florence,  D  ;  Coe's  Late  Carnation,  D  ; 
Kentish,  K  ;   iielle  Magnifique,  K  ;  Morello,  K  ;  Frogmore  Early  Bigarreau,  D. 

CHEBBIES    FOR    ORCHARDS. 

Early  Prolific,  Black  Tartarian,  May  Duke,  Elton,  Buttner's  Black,  Kentish 
Bigarreau,  Mammoth,  Late  Duke,  Tecumsch. 

CURRANTS. 

White— White  Dutch.  Red— La  Fertile,  Raby  Castle,  Red  Dutch.  Black— 
Kentish  Hero,  Lee's  Prolific. 

FIGS    FOR   WALLS. 

Black  Genoa,  Black  Ischia,  Brown  Turkey,  Marseilles,  Castle  Kennedy.  For 
Forcing —Black  Ischia,  Brown  Ischia,  Brown  Turkey,  White  Ischia,  White  Mar- 
seilles. 

GOOSEBERRIES    FOR    DESSERT. 

Red — Keen's  Seedling,  Red  Globe,  Rough  Red,  Turkey  Red,  Companion, 
Yellow— Glorv  of  RatclifF,  Rumbullion,  Leader,  Yellow  Champagne.  Green — 
Green  Gage,  Green  Gasco^e,  Turn-out,  Hebburn's  Prolific.  White — White  Eagle, 
Queen  of  Trumps,  Bright  Venus,  Hedgehog,  Whitesmith,  White  Champagne. 

GRAPES    FOR   WALLS. 

July  Muscat,  Muscat  St.  Laurent,  Esperione,  Miller's  Burgundy,  Pitmaston 
Cluster,  RovhI  Muscadine,  Black  Hamburgh,  Chafselas  Mu^que.  The  last  two 
require  dry  borders  and  good  pusitions,  or  they  will  not  ripen  their  fruit. 


THE    FLORAL    WORLD    AND   GARDEN    GUIDE.  34,9 

GRAFFS    FOR    COOL   VINERIES. 

Cliasselas  Musque,  Foster's  White  Seedling,  Madeira  Muscat,  Golden  Champion, 
Black  Hamburgh,  Buckland  Sweetwater. 

GRAPES    FOR    HEATED    VINERIES. 

Muscat  of  Alexandria,  Bowood  Muscat,  Canon  Hall  Muscat,  Muscat  Ham- 
burgh. 

GRAPES     FOR   A    LATE    VINERY. 

Kempsey  Alicante,  Madresfield  Court,  Black  Muscat,  Black  Lady  Downes, 
White  Lady  Downes,  Mrs.  Pince's  Muscat. 

NECTARINES    FOR    WALLS. 

Balgowan,  Early  Newington,  Elruge,  Hardwicke,  Oldernberg,  Violette  Hative, 
Pitmaston  Orange. 

PEACHES     FOR   WALLS. 

Bellegarde,  Early  York,  Grosse  Mignonne,  Crawford's  Early,  Royal  Charlotte, 
Royal  George,  Noblesse,  Barringion,  Walburton  Admirable,  Salway. 

PEARS,    THIRTY    FOR    GROWING   AS   BUSHES   AND   PYRAMIDS. 

Alex.  Lambre,  Bergamotte  de  Esperen,  rJeurre"  Clairgeau,  Beurre  d'Aremberg, 
Beurre  d'Amanlis,  Beurre  de  Ranee,  Eastern  Beurre,  Beurre  G-oubalt,  Bon  Chre- 
tien, Broom  Park,  British  Queen,  Conseiller  de  la  Cour,  Delices  de  Jodoigne, 
Doyenne  Boussoch,  Doyenne  Defnis,  Doyenne  d'Eie,  Duchesse  d'Angouleme, 
Eyewood,  Fondante  d'Automne,  Forelle  Glou  Morceau,  Huysbe's  Victoria,  Jor- 
gonelle,  Louis^  Bonne  of  Jersey,  Monarch,  Prince  Albert,  Suffolk  Thorn,  Winter 
Nelis,  Yat,  Zephirin,  Gregoire. 

PEARS,    TWENTY  FOUR,    VERY    CHOICE    FOR  A    WALL. 

Bergamotte  d'Esperen,  Bezi  Mai,  Beurre  Diel,  Beurre  Bosc,  Beurre  Goubalt, 
Brockworth  Park,  Chaumontel,  Marie  Louise,  Knight's  Monarch,  Ne  Plus  Meuris, 
Hacon's  Incomparable,  W.  Thompson's,  Graham's  Autumn  Nelis,  Glou  Morceau, 
Jargonelle,  Winter  Nelis,  Josephine  de  Malines,  Easter  Beurre,  Doyenne  d'Ete, 
Bon  Chretien,  Louis  Bonne  of  Jersey,  Beurre  Ranee,  Alexandre  Bivort,  Pitmaston, 
Duchesse  d'Angouleme. 

PLUMS    FOR   DESSERT. 

July  Green  Gage  (wall),  Bonne  Bouche,  Denniston's  Superb,  Perdrigon  Violet 
Hatif,  Green  Gage  (wall),  Transparent  (Jane,  Jefferson,  Coe's  Golden  Drop  (wall), 
Reine  Claude  de  Bavay,  Coe's  Late  Red,  Blue  Imperatrice  (wall). 

PLUMS    FOR    CULINARY     PURPOSES. 

Early  Prolific,  Early  Orleans,  Mitchelson's  Victoria,  Diamond,  Washington, 
Belle  de  Septembre. 

RASPBERRIES. 

Yelloio — Yellow  Antwerp,   Magnum   Bonum,   October  Yellow.     Red Fastolf 

Beehive,  Carter's  Prolific,  Red  Antwerp,  Maclaren's  Prolines. 

STRAWBERRIES,    TWELVE    BEST    FOR   SUCCESSION. 

Amateur,  Vicomtesse  Hericai  t  de  Thury,  Dr.  Hogg,  Crimson  Queen,  Keen's 
Seedling,  Marguerite,  President,  Royalty,  Frogmore  Late  Pine,  Princess  of  Wales. 


TO    CORRESPONDENTS. 


Rose  Trees  Dying.— In  the  early  part  of  last  summer  I  planted  heliotropes  on 
the  same  border  where  standard  rose  trees  grew,  and  every  tree  has  died  where  the 
heliotrope  was  close  to  the  root  of  the  rose.  One  tree  appeared  to  be  going  the 
same  way  as  the  rest,  so  I  removed  the  heliotrope,  and  that  tree  is  fast  regaining 
its  former  freshness.  Can  there  really  be  anything  in  this,  or  is  it  a  singular  cir- 
cumstance ?  —  J.  Q.  Sproston.  [We  cannot  explain  the  cause  of  the  rose  trees 
dying  off  in  the  manner  mentioned  5  but  we  do  not  believe  that  the  heliotropium 
has  killed  them.     It  is  certainly  a  most  "  singular  circumstance." — Ed.  F.  W-] 


850  THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND   GARDEN    GUIDE. 

Lilium  Bed. — An  Amateur. — The  subject  shall  have  attention  in  our  next 
number.     Lilium  auratum  is  perfectly  hardy,  but  it  should  be  planted  rather  d._ep. 

Cyclamens. — J  H.,  Ireland. — The  young  plants  should  be  potted  off  singly  at 
once.  Put  them  in  three-inch  pots,  and  use  a  compost  consisting  of  turfy  loam 
three  parts,  leaf-mould  one  part,  manure  uecayed  to  a  powder  half  a  part,  and 
silver  sand  about  a  third  of  a  part.  When  shifted  into  larger  pots  use  a  rather 
smaller  proportion  of  sand.  After  they  are  potted  off  place  them  in  a  genial  growing 
temperature  of  about  60°  for  a  few  weeks  if  available,  otherwise  place  them  in  the 
warmest  part  of  the  greenhouse. 

Mandevillea  suaveolens. — A.  B.  S.,  Torquay — The  portion  of  the  plant 
exposed  will  very  probably  survive  the  winter  without  suffering  material  injury,  if 
the  winter  is  not  severe.  It  is  worth  a  trial,  unless  you  require  the  branches  outside 
for  covering  any  portion  of  the  wall  space  inside. 

Prices  of  Pitcher  Plants. — H.  J.  will  be  much  obliged  if  the  Editor  of  the 
Floral  Would  will  give  him  the  prices  of  a  few  of  the  best  Nepenthes,  or  Pitcher 
Plants  ;  also  what  the  price  of  a  packet  of  seed  would  be.  [The  prices  at  which  Ne- 
penthes are  offered  by  Messrs.  Veitch  and  irions,  Royal  Exotic  Nursery,  Chelsea,  who 
have  the  finest  trade  collection  in  this  country,  are  as  follows  :  N.  distillatoria, 
10s.  6d. ;  N.  Dominiana,  42s.;  N.  gracilis  major,  10s.  6d.  ;  N.  Hookeri,  105s.  ; 
N.  hybrida  maculata,  31s.  6d. ;  K.  Icevis,  5s.;  N.  Rafflesiana,  10s.  6d. ;  N. 
rubra  21s.  •  N.  Sedeni,  21s.  The  last  was  figured  in  the  Flokal  World  for 
October  1870,  and  is  the  most  beautiful  of  all  the  small  growing  kinds.  All  the 
above  are  remarkably  good  ;  Rafflesiana  being  the  most  showy,  but  it  is  a  rather 
strono-  grower,  and  requires  a  considerable  amount  of  space  for  its  development,  in 
comparison  with  the  others,  but  it  can  be  grown  in  a  house  of  a  moderate  size. 
Seed  cannot   so  far  as  we  are  aware,  be  obtained  in  the  ordinary  course  of  trade. 

Names  of  Ferns. — 8-  J.,  Clifton  Park.— Athyrium  filix-fcemina,  var.  corym- 

biferum. A  Nezv   Subscriber,  Prestwich. — N.  1.  Scolopendrium   vulgare  ;  2, 

Polypodium  vulgare. 

Climbing  Roses.— Dorchester. — To  produce  an  immediate  effect,  you  should 
plant  eight  roses  and  put  them  at  an  equal  distance  apart.  As  you  prefer  yellow 
and  dark  flowers  you  cannot  do  better  than  to  plant  the  following,  all  of  which  are 
free-growing  and  free-flowering — Red  Rover,  Glory  of  Waltham,  Prince  Leopold, 
Oloire  de  Ducher,  Maalle.  Annie  Wood,  Oloire  de  Dijon,  Marechal  Neil,  and 
Jane  Hardy.  There  are  several  roses  the  names  of  which  begin  with  "  Souvenir." 
The  cause  of  the  leaves  falling  prematurely  is  due  to  some  local  cause. 

Sea  Buckthorn. — Rev.  T.  B.  T.,  Launceston  — The  Sea  Buckthorn,  Hippo- 
phcea  rhamnoides,  is  grown  in  all  good  nurseries,  and  could  certainly  be  obtained  by 
applying  to  Messrs.  Veitch  and  Sons,  Royal  Exotic  Nursery,  Chelsea. 

Zonal  Pelargoniums. — A.  J.  Wifmnt,  Rose  Cottage,  Devon. — The  flowers  of 
Zonal  Pelargoniums  are  never  fit  for  criticism  after  passing  through  the  post ;  and 
-we  never  give  an  opinion  upon  them.  It  is  impossible  to  form  a  just  estimate  of  the 
merits  of  a  variety  without  seeing  the  growing  plant. 

Rats  and  Moles  in  Garden.— S.  Y.  W—  Carbonate  of  baryta  mixed  with 
oatmeal  is  the  best  poison  for  rats  and  mice.  There  is  no  remedy  for  moles  but 
trapping.     To  catch  moles  is  a  question  of  skill  only. 

Taunton  Deane  Show.— The  ferns  exhibited  by  Mr.  Silver  at  the  Taunton 
Horticultural  Exhibition,  to  which  allusion  was  made  in  the  September  number, 
were  shown  in  the  great  class  confined  to  exhibitors  resident  in  the  di-trict ;  the 
first  prize  in  the  open  class  being  taken  by  Mr.  Taylor,  whose  sumptuous  specimens 
will  not  soon  be  forgotten  by  those  who  had  the  opportunity  of  seeing  them. 

Fumigating  Greenhouse.— Subscriber. — The  tobacco  smoke  will  cause  the 
flowers  to  fall  much  earlier  than  they  otherwise  would  do,  but  if  the  house  is  fumi- 
gated with  care,  it  will  not  injure  the  leaves  of  the  most  delicate  plants.  The  main 
points  in  fumigating  a  greenhouse  are  to  have  the  foliage  of  the  plants  perfectly  dry, 
and  the  fumigating  material  just  moist  enough  to  insure  its  burning  steadily,  but 
not  wet  enough  to  generate  steam  instead  of  smoke.  When  the  mat,  rial  is  dry,  it 
hums  too  rapidly,  and  the  smoke  given  off  is  so  hot  that  it  scorches  the  leaves. 
When,  on  the  other  hand,  it  is  too  moist,  steam  is  generated,  and  is  ineffectual.  It 
is  also' important  to  prevent  a  flame  bursting  out,  for  if  allowed  to  bu.st  out,  and 
continue  for  any  length  of  time,  every  plant  in  the  house  will  be  more  or  less 
injured.     To  prevent  the  material  flaring  it  is  necessary  to  stir  it  occasionally,  and 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE.  351 

when  it  becomes  dry  sprinkle  it  with  water.  The  Begonia  mentioned  is  now  plen- 
tiful, and  we  observe  that  it  is  entered  in  the  catalogue  of  Mr.  B.  S.  Williams, 
Upper  Holloway,  at  a  low  rate.  It  is  also  known  as  Begonia  Martinzi ;  hence  the 
difficulty  you  have  experienced  in  procuring  it  of  your  regular  nurssryman. 

Bedding  Plants. — Amateur.— The  undermentioned  are  the  best  of  the  summer 
bedders  grown  for  their  flowers,  exclusive  of  geraniums  and  verbenas,  of  which  you 
say  you  have  already  a  sufficiency.  Ageratum  Imperial  Dwarf,  light  blue,  nine 
inches,  effective  in  second  rows;  A.  Mexicanum,  lavender,  in  growth  useful  for 
back  rows  ;  A.  Prince  Alfred,  light  blue,  fine  habit,  best  adapted  for  second  and 
third  rows.  Calceolaria  Gai?ies's  Yellow,  compact,  yet  vigorous  in  growth  very- 
free  flowering;  C.  Golden  Gem,  deep  golden  yellow,  habit  vigorous  and  compact, 
very  rich  and  showy ;  C.  Broivn  Prince,  brownish  buff,  fine  habit,  and  very  free- 
flowering.  Dahlia  Rising  Sun,  rich  scarlet,  very  free-flowering,  and  most  effective 
for  back  rows  ;  D.  Pluton,  pure  yellow,  dwarf,  compact,  and  free-flowering,  second 
and  third  rows;  D.  White  Bedder,  pure  white,  very  dwarf  and  free- flowering, 
valuable  for  second  or  third  rows.  Gazania  splendens,  orange  yellow,  dwarf  and 
spreading,  best  adapted  for  small  beds.  Heliotropium  Etoile  de  Marseilles,  deep 
purplish  blue,  neat  and  compact,  very  free  blooming  ;  H.  Miss  Nightingale,  clear 
purplish  lilac,  dwarf,  compact,  and  free-flowering  ;  H.  Jersey  Beauty,  deep  purplish 
blue,  neatcompact  habit,  and  very  free  flowering.  LantanaJean  Bart,  yellow  and 
pink,  dwarf  and  profuse  blooming,  useful  for  marginal  lines  ;  L.  Imperatrice 
Eugenie,  pink,  yellow  centre,  extra  dwarf,  and  therefore  invaluable  for  edgings  ; 
L.  Adolphe  ffwas,  canary  yellow,  very  showy  and  distinct.  Lobelia  erinus  Blue 
Boy,  clear  bright  blue,  very  dwarf,  compact,  and  free-flowering;  L.  e.  Indigo 
Blue,  very  deep  blue,  very  rich  and  effective  for  marginal  or  second  lines  •  L.  e. 
Pearl,  white,  tinged  with  blue,  very  compact  and  free-flowering,  and  invaluable  for 
edging  purposes  ;  L.  pumila  grandiflora,  clear  bright  blue,  very  compact  in  habit 
the  Vst  for  divisional  lines.  Nierembergia  gracilis,  pale  lilac,  trailing  habit 
useful  for  small  beds  and  edging  purposes.  Pansy  SandbecJc  Gem,  deep  golden 
yellow,  fine  habit,  and  continuous  flowering.  Petunia  Countess  of  Ellesmere,  rose 
pink,  white  throat,  good  habit  and  showy  ;  P,  Spitfire,  blackish  purple,  very  showy 
and  effective,  stands  the  weather  well  ;  P.  Single  Beauty,  rosy  lavender,  overlaid 
with  purple  maroon  lines,  free  habit,  and  very  distinct.  Salvia  patens,  deep  blue 
upright  growth,  effective  in  back  rows  or  centres  of  beds.  Tropaolum  luteum  Im- 
proved,  orange  yellow,  dense,  compact,  invaluable  for  edgings;  T.  Advancer,  bril- 
liant orange  scarlet,  habit  dense  and  free,  fine  for  edgings  or  small  beds  •  T.  Star 
of  Fire,  orange  scarlet,  dwarf,  compact,  and  free  flowering-,  most  useful  for  small 
beds.  Veronica  Blue  Gem,  light  blue,  very  neat,  dwarf  and  free-flowering,  useful 
for  marginal  lines  or  panel  beds.  Viola  Perfection,  bluish  mauve,  flowers  con- 
tinuously in  suitable  soils,  and  is  very  effective.  V.  lutea  major,  clear  golden 
yellow,  blooms  continuously,  grand  for  beds  or  edgings.  V.  I.  pallida,  sulphur 
yellow,  pleasing  and  effective,  either  in  beds  or  marginal  lines.  There  is  no  dearth  of 
plants  with  ornamental  leafage  which  are  useful  for  summer  bedding.  The  fol- 
lowing selection  comprises  the  best  at  present  in  cultivation,  suitable  for  panel  and 
embroidered  beds,  and  for  carpeting  the  surface  of  beds  filled  with  the  tall-growing 
subtropical  plants  : — Alyssum  variegatum,  creamy  variegation,  compact  and  useful. 
Alternanthera  amcena,  blight  carmine,  brilliant  in  colour,  but  slow  in  °rowth.  A. 
amabilis,  orange  and  carmine,  rich  and  effective  ;  A.  magnifica,  rosy  carmine, 
free  in  growth,  and  very  rich  ;  A.  paronychioiodes,  bronzy  red  and  orange,  free  and 
effective,  Amaranthus  melancholicus  ruber,  sanguineous  red,  best  adapted  for 
centres  or  back  rows.  Antennaria  tomentosum,  silvery  foliage,  dwarf  and  spreading. 
Artemisia  stelleriana,  silvery  foliage,  strong  in  growth,  and  suitable  for  centres  of 
large  beds.'  Coleus  aurea  marginal  a,  bronzy  crimson,  yellow  margin  second  rows 
or  centres  of  beds  ;  C.  Emperor  Napoleon,  deep  chocolate  crimson,  centres  of  large 
beds  ;  C.  Verschajfelti,  chocolate  crimson,  second  rows  or  centres  of  beds.  Davtylis 
glomerata  elegantissima,  strong  growth,  centres  of  large  beds.  Fuchsia  Golden 
Treasure,  golden  yellow,  best  for  medium-sized  beds.  Gnapkalium  lanatum,  silvery 
foliage,  strong  gi  owing,  suitable  for  large  beds  only.  Iresine  acuminata,  deep 
bronzy  red,  spreading,  suitable  for  large  beds  only  ;  I.  Lindeni,  sanguineous  red 
upright  in  growth,  grand  for  second  rows  or  centres.  Klenia  repens,  bluish  green 
fleshy  leaves-,  useful  in  small  beds.  Lysimachia  nummularia  aurea,  golden  yellow 
trailing,  adapted  for  small  beds  only.  Mesembryanthemum  cordifolium,  creamy 
yellow  variegation,  compact  and   trailing,  first   rate.      Oxvlis  corniculata  rubra, 


352  THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

velvety  brown,  dwarf,  spreading,  and  free  growing.  Perilla  Nankinemis,  bronzy 
black;  vigorous  in  growth,  suitable  for  large  beds  only.  Saxifraga  densa,  deep 
green,  compact  and  spreading  ;  &.  hypnoid.es,  rich  green,  very  useful  for  small 
beds  ;  S.  pedata,  deep  green,  free-growing,  yet  compact.  Sedum  anglicum,  green, 
dense,  compact  and  free-growing,  useful  for  small  beds  ;  S.  corsicum,  light  green, 
spreading,  quick  in  growth  ;  8.  glaucmn,  grey,  spreading  rapidly,  invaluable  for 
small  or  medium-sized  beds  ;  S.  hispanicum,  light  glaucous  green  :  free-growing 
and  effective.  Thymus  lanuginosus,  green  and  yellow,  very  compact,  and  only  suit- 
able for  very  small  beds  ;  T.  citriodorus  aurea,  golden  yellow,  dwarf  and  spreading, 
very  effective  ;  T.  citriodorus  aureus  niarginatus,  leaves  margined  yeliow  ;  com- 
pact, erect  growth,  useful.  Trifolium  repens  aureum,  greenish  yellow,  for  carpeting 
only.  Vinca  elegantissima,  pale  yellow,  suitable  for  beds  filled  with  subtropical 
plants. 

Name  of  Fern. — Lastrea  filix-mas,  Romford. — You  are  right  in  your  con- 
jectures with  respect  to  the  name  of  the  fern  of  which  a  complete  frond  was 
sent.  The  scrap  is  from  a  frond  of  one  of  the  Aspleniums,  probably  A.  vivi- 
parum.  The  specimen  is  too  small  to  permit  of  our  speaking  definitely.  Several 
species  of  Asplenium  form  young  plants  in  the  manner  mentioned. 

Amateur's  Sanctum. — J.  T.  B.  —  If  due  care  is  taken  to  avoid  throwing  the 
water  about  on  the  pathway,  there  will  not  be  much  possibility  of  the  damp  injuring 
the  indoor  apartments,  especially  if  all  watering  is  done  early  in  the  day,  and  air 
admitted  to  permit  of  the  superfluous  moisture  drying  up  before  the  house  is  closed 
for  the  night.  The  plants  will  require  very  little  moisture  during  the  winter  months, 
and  they  should  not  be  watered  when  the  weather  is  not  sufficiently  favourable  to 
permit  of  the  ventilators  being  opened. 

C.  Hippersley. — The  rose  mentioned  will  most  likely  flower  more  satisfactorily 
next  season,  if  not  pruned  too  hard.  The  magnolia  should  not  be  pruned  unless 
under  exceptional  circumstances. 

Pruning  Zonal  Pelargoniums. — Amateur. — The  plants  taken  up  from  the 
beds  and  potted  with  a  view  to  their  being  used  in  the  flower-garden  should  not  be 
pruned.  If  the  shoots  are  cut  back  now  some  will  decay,  and  a  few  of  the  plants 
may  perish.  Leave  them  their  full  length,  and  prune  about  the  end  of  February, 
and  the  plants  will  commence  to  make  new  growth  at  once.  It  is  a  serious  mis- 
take to  prune  zonal  pelargoniums  in  the  autumn  which  have  done  duty  in  the 
flower-garden  during  the  pievious  summer. 

Spergula.  and  the  Carpet  Chamomile. — An  Old  Subscriber. — Spergula 
would  certainly  not  grow  on  the  floor  of  a  bee  shed,  but  with  careful  management 
it  might  do  very  well  on  the  banks  alluded  to.  The  grass  may,  however,  be 
wonderfully  improved  by  dressing  it  with  phospho-guano  at  the  rate  of  one  pound 
to  five  square  yards.  The  "  Carpet  Chamomile,"  Pyrethrum  Tchihatchewi,  which 
is  now  procurable  at  most  good  nurseries  at  a  moderate  price,  would  probably  grow 
well  in  the  bee  shed,  if  supplied  with  water  when  necessary.  It  will  flourish  in  dry 
places  where  grass  and  many  other  plants  would  perish  ;  but  of  course  it  will  not 
live  without  some  degree  of  moisture.  It  is  of  great  value  for  planting  under  the 
shade  of  trees  on  dry  banks  and  other  places  where  grass  will  not  live,  and  the  only 
attention  required  to  keep  it  in  order  is  to  remove  the  large  daisy-like  flowers 
wbich  make  their  appearance  in  the  early  part  of  the  summer.  It  would  soon  form 
a  dense  carpet  of  green  on  the  two  dry  banks  you  speak  of,  but  it  is  not  desirable  in 
places  where  grass  with  prcper  management  succeeds. 

j£  j£m River-sand  is  not  useless  for  propagating  bedding  plants,  but  is  not  so 

o-ood  for  propagating  hard- wooded  plants  as  silver-sand.  For  striking  geraniums, 
calceolarias  verbenas,  and  other  plants  of  this  description,  we  would  quite  as  soon 
have  it  as  the  best  of  silver-sand. 

Clematis. — A  New  Subscriber,  Prestwich. — The  plant  mentioned  is  probably 
growing  in  soil  which  has  become  impoveiished.  To  insure  continuity  of  bloom 
there  must  be  continuous  growth,  and  to  maintain  a  vigorous  giowth  the  soil  must 
be  of  a  generous  character.  The  rose  mentioned  may  be  grown  in  pots,  but  Mare- 
chal  Neil  is  far  superior  in  every  respect.  The  seedling  peach-tree  will  bear  fruit 
without  budding  or  grafting,  but  it  will  in  a  1  protab.J.ty  exhaust  your  patience 
before  it  becomes  fruitful,  and  then  the  chances  are  very  small  against  the  fruit  being 
fit  to  eat.  If  you  have  room  for  a  peach-tree,  grow  a  good  variety  like  the  Royal 
George  or  Noblesse,  and  not  waste  it  by  occupying  it  with  a  seedling  which  will 
be  years  before  it  beats  fruit,  and  then  in  all  probability  prove  worthless. 


A  Q  U  1 1.  E  l!  I A     C  L  A  N  D  U  L  0  S  A. 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  353 

HARDY  COLUMBINES. 

{With  Coloured  Plate  of  Aquilegia  glandulosa.) 


HIS  magnificent  herbaceous  plant  represents  a  group  of 
half-forgotten  garden  worthies,  that  we  may  search  far 
and  wide  for  in  the  flower  gardens  of  the  present  day, 
"We  were  reminded  of  its  existence   during  the   past 
summer  by  receiving  from  Messrs.  G rigor  and  Co.,  of 
the  Nurseries,  Forres,  a  glorious  bunch  of  its  flowers,  from  whicb  a 
drawing  was   made  for  the  plate  which    accompanies   this   notice. 
This   plant  is  one  of  the  hardiest  of  the  tine  family  to   which  it 
belongs,   requiring  nothing  more  than   good    border  culture,  with 
plenty  of  room  and  full  exposure  to  the  sunshine.    As  we  are  always 
anxious  to  direct  attention  to  hardy  plants  of  high  decorative  value, 
it  is  needful  in  this  notice  to  remark  that  there  are  several  species  of 
Aquilegia    in    cultivation,    that,    for    ordinary    purposes    of  garden 
decoration,  are  really  worthless,  and  of  course  are  not  to  be  re- 
commended, although  they  have  a  place  in  trade  catalogues.     But 
having  rejected  the  least  desirable,   there  remain  several  that  are 
indispensable  to  the  completeness   of  the  herbaceous  border,  and 
indeed  are  well  adapted  for  large  beds  and  clumps  in  conspicuous 
positions,  owing  to  their  noble  characters  and  showy  colours  when  in 
flower.      The   most    beautiful   columbiue   perhaps   is  the  rare  and 
delicate  A.  ccerulea,  which  grows  about  two  feet  high,  and  produces 
a  large  number  of  its  curiously  formed  and  most  elegantly  coloured 
flowers  of  pale  violet  blue  passing  into  white.     The  species  here 
figured,  A.  glandulosa,  is  the  most  showy,  the  plant  rising  about 
two  feet   high,   with  handsome  ample  leafage,  and  a  profusion   of 
dashing  blue  and   white  flowers.      The  variety  grown  by   Messrs. 
Grrigor  has  a   delicate   shade  of  violet,   which  renders   the   flower 
extremely  pleasing  when  examined  closely,  though  when  seen  at  a 
distauce  the  violet  is  not  apparent,  and  a  good  head  of  flowers  has 
somewhat  the  appearance  of  a  cloud  of  blue  and  white   butterflies. 
The   commonest   of  the  columbines  is  A.  vulgaris,  a  British  plant, 
and  a  favourite  of  the  cottage  garden.     This,  however,  in  its  com- 
monest form,  is  not  good  enough  for  the  select  herbaceous  border 
although  it   must  be  confessed  that,  in  its  worst  state,  it  is  an  ex- 
ceedingly pretty  plant.      The  double-flowering  varieties,  however 
are  truly  fine,  and  a  bed  of  them  would  be  no  bad  ornament  to  a 
garden,  especially  if  asters  were  planted  amongst  the  columbines  to 
afford   flowers  when  the   columbines  were  over.     The  last  \i\  the 
select  list  of  border   columbines  is  A.   Skinneri,  a  good  clump   of 
which  has  a  showy  appearance,  the  flowers  being  produced  in  plenty 
in  good  shades  of  red  and  orange.      For  the  rockery,  A.  alpina  is  a 
rare  gem,  growing  only  a  foot  high,  and  producing  a  number  of  fine 
purplish  blue  flowers. 

It  may  not  be  wrong  to  enumerate  those  we  consider  unworthy 
of  a  place  in  a  first-class  border.  They  are  A.  bicolor,  A.  caryophi/l- 
loides,  A.  canadense,  A.  fragrans,  A.  Siberica,  the  single-flowerin^ 

VOL.   VI. — MO.  XII.  23 


354-  THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

A.  vulgaris,  and  the  variegated  leaved  variety  of  the  last.  Now  that 
we  have  touched  on  bad  plants  it  may  be  well  to  refer  to  them 
occasionally,  especially  to  point  out  in  lists  of  herbaceous  plants 
such  as  are  unwortby  the  attention,  and  therefore  the  money,  of 
those  who  prefer  flowers  to  weeds,  and  object  to  grow  second-clats 
plants  until  they  have  exhausted  the  lists  of  first-class  kinds. 

S.  H. 


HERBACEOUS  PLANTS  EOE  LAWN  CLUMPS. 

HILE  penning  the  foregoing  notice  of  Messrs.  Grigor's 
columbine,  it  has  occurred  to  me  to  suggest  tbat  a  few 
very  distinct  and  handsome  herbaceous  plants  are  admi- 
rably adapted  for  planting  in  clumps  on  the  lawn,  not  as 
bedding  plants,  but  to  afford  grace  of  form  as  well  as  a 
display  of  colour,  and  to  make  a  change  thereby  from  the  customary 
mode  of  procedure.     And  the  suggestion  may  appear  the  more  proper, 
because  of  the  inherent  demerits  of  many  of  the  methods  adopted 
for  the  enrichment  of  the  lawn.     A  tasteful  display  of  coniferous 
trees  is  usually  the  best  possible  furniture  for  breaking  the  flatness, 
and  giving  dignity  to  a  fine  breadth  of  grass  ;  but  coniferous  trees 
do  not  thrive  everywhere  alike,  they  are  not  in  favour  with   all 
amateurs  alike,  and  they  are  somewhat  expensive  if  good  sorts  are 
selected  and  properly  planted.     The  "  popular "  style  of  enriching 
the  lawn  consists  in  forming  a  number  of  small  round  beds  ("pin- 
cushion beds  "  they  are  called)  and  planting  standard  roses  in  them, 
with  bedding  plants  during  the  spring  and  summer.     Having  ex- 
pressed my  opinion  on  this  style   pretty  freely,  I  shall  not  now 
weary  the  reader  by  pronouncing  an  elaborate  condemnation  of  pin- 
cushion beds  and  standard  roses.    It  is  sufficient  to  say  that  standard 
roses  are  hideously  ugly  during  at  least  nine  months  out  of  the  twelve, 
and  that  they  are  usually  so  badly  treated  when  in  pincushion  beds 
that  they  never  present  large,  handsome  hfads  to  make  amends  for 
their  ugliness  of  contour.      We  shall  probably   never   succeed    in 
"  writing  down  "  pincushion  beds  and  standard  roses,  and,  indeed, 
feel  rather  inclined  to  conceal  than  to  express  our  views  on  that  sub- 
ject, because  of  the  evident  pleasure  tens  of  thousands  of  people 
derive  from  standard  roses  that  starve  on  grass  plots  within  view  of 
all  the  windows.     Let  us  enlarge  the  area  of  selection  of  subjects  for 
lawns  by  proposing  that  a  lew  first-class  herbaceous  plants  should 
be  adopted.     They   must  be  peculiarly  distinct  and  handsome,  the 
least  wiediness  of  character  will  be  fatal  to  them.     They  must  be 
such  as  will  arrest  attention,  and  justify  by  their  beauty  the  im- 
portant  place   assigned    them.      Strange    to    say,    suital       - ^ ants, 
according  to  our  view  of  the  requirements  of  the  case,  are  extu  . 
few  in  number.    We  have  carelully  looked  through  Ware's  catalogue 
of  herbaceous  plants  and  selected  the  following.     When  we  com- 
menced the  search  we  expected  to  find  full  twice  as  many  as  in  the 
end  we  marked  for  the  purpose. 

Ayapanthus  umbellatus,  w  hich  is  generally  grown  in  pots,  and 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND   GARDEN   GUIDE.  355 

kept  under  glass  all  the  winter,  is  quite  hardy  on  our  cold  clay  soil 
at  Stoke  Newington,  and  we  may,  therefore,  select  it  with  safety  as 
one  of  the  finest  things  discoverable  for  a  lawn  clump  in  any  place 
enjoying  a  climate  as  good  as  that  of  London.  The  severe  winter 
of  1870-71  did  not  hurt  any  of  our  agapanthuses  that  were  planted 
out,  and  we  intend  henceforth  to  employ  these  noble  plants  as  headers, 
leaving  them  out  with  tritomas  and  lilies  to  take  their  share  of 
winter  discomforts. 

Anemone  vitifolia  Honorine  Jobert,  which  produces  a  number  of 
lovely  white  flowers  resting  on  an  ample  vine-like  leafage  during  the 
late  summer  months.  It  is  a  grand  plant  for  a  clump,  or  to  form  a 
front  line  to  a  clump  of  lilies. 

Aquilegia  glandulosa  would  make  a  telling  clump,  say  about  six 
plants  standing  apart  from  everything  else. 

Anuidinaria  falcata  is  already  much  employed  as  an  isolated 
adornment  of  the  grass,  and  needs  only  to  be  mentioned. 

Astilbe  rivularis  is  a  fine  lawn  plant  for  the  neighbourhood  of 
water,  and  any  part  of  the  lawn  not  highly  dressed. 

Bocconia  cordata  and  B.  frutescens  are  extremely  handsome  when 
in  a  thriving  state,  producing  large  spreading  masses  of  the  most 
handsome  leafage. 

Gi/neriicm  argenteum,  the  well-known  "  Pampas  grass,"  is  so 
thoroughly  appreciated  and  universally  grown  that  it  is  sufficient 
to  name  it  in  its  proper  place  in  the  list. 

Hydrangea  hortensis  and  PL.  japonica  are  both  hardy  and  mag- 
nificent plants.  To  do  justice  to  them  as  lawn  plants,  the  beds  in 
which  they  are  planted  should  be  deeply  dug  and  enriched  with  an 
abundance  of  fat  manure,  and  during  the  summer  copious  and 
frequent  supplies  of  water  should  be  given.  It  is  scarcely  a  misuse 
of  terms  to  say  they  will  take  "  any  quantity"  of  water. 

Lilium  giganteum  is  quite  hardy  on  the  heavy  damp  soils  of  Stoke 
Newington  and  Tottenham,  and  attains  to  perfect  development 
without  any  special  preparation  of  the  soil  or  protection  in  winter. 
A  nobler  lawn  plant  cannot  be  found  in  the  world.  Liliums,  gene- 
rally speaking,  are  not  so  well  adapted  for  clumps  and  beds  as  some 
enthusiastic  writers  represent,  owing  to  their  tendency  to  die  down 
early  in  the  season,  and  the  comparatively  brief  duration  of  their 
flowers. 

Pceonia  arborea  and  P.  officinalis  may  be  planted  freely,  and 
there  is  an  almost  endless  variety  in  both  sectious.  They  are  extra- 
vagantly showy  when  in  flower,  but  are  scarcely  first-class  lawn 
plants,  because  they  become  coarse  and  shabby  soon  after  their 
flowering  is  over.  Probably  P.  officinalis  tenuifolia,  which  has 
finely-divided  fennel-like  leaves,  would  make  an  interesting  and 
beautiful  lawn  clump. 

Polygonum  cuspidatum  is  the  perfection  of  a  lawn  plant,  but  it 
has  one  very  bad  habit,  that  of  travelling  fast  and  far.  We  have 
been  compelled  lately  to  move  a  magnificent  plant  from  a  lawn, 
because  of  its  persistency  in  sending  up  shoots  far  away  from  its 
proper  centre.  To  keep  it  in  its  place  it  would  be  well  to  form  some 
kind  of  wall  around  its  roots.     To  give  an  idea  of  the  sore  of  wall 


356  THE    FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

required,  we  will  suppose  an  old  tub  three  feet  across  to  be  sawn 
down  to  a  depth  of  two  feet,  so  as  to  provide  a  two  feet  depth  of 
wooden  wall  three  feet  in  diameter.  This  would  require  to  be  well 
pitched  inside  and  out,  and  be  placed  wholly  underground  to  enclose 
the  roots  of  the  plant,  which  it  would  do  effectually  until  its  decay 
enabled  them  to  push  through  it. 

Spiraea  venusta  and  S.  palmata  are  superb  plants,  requiring  a 
deep,  damp,  rich  soil. 

Statice  latifolia  will  suit  for  a  small  clump  raised  above  the  level. 
There  should  be  half-a-dozen  plants  at  least  in  the  clump  to  produce 
an  effect. 

Thalictrum  aquilegieefolium  is  stately  and  handsome,  though  by 
no  means  showy. 

Tritoma  uvaria,  and  all  other  tritomas,  are  first-rate  lawn  plants, 
not  only  for  their  dashing  flowers  in  the  summer,  but  their  hand- 
some dark  green  leaves  all  winter,  which  the  frost  rarely  injures. 

Tupa  feuillei  is  a  stiff-growing  plant,  five  feet  high,  producing 
in  summer  grand  spikes  of  scarlet  flowers.  It  is  probably  too 
coarse  for  a  conspicuous  position,  but  is  so  distinct  and  showy  that 
it  needs  an  open  spot  of  grass  to  display  it  effectually. 

Veratrum  nigrum  is  undoubtedly  a  fine  thing  for  our  purpose, 
and  to  make  a  nice  clump  halt'-a-dozeu  plants  would  be  required. 

Yucca  gloriosa  is  well  known  for  its  solemn  nobility.  Y.  recurva 
is  more  elegant.  Y.  plicata  is  a  pretty  little  thing  that  flowers 
freely.  The  variegated  Yuccas  are  sumptuous  lawn  plants,  but 
they  are  not  quite  hardy,  and  we  are  endeavouring  to  confine  this 
list  to  plants  that  may  be  left  out  all  the  winter.  When  Tuccas 
are  planted  out,  precautions  must  be  taken  to  secure  them  against 
the  injurious  effects  of  stagnant  moisture.  To  accomplish  this,  it 
is  not  alwavs  necessary  to  raise  them  above  the  general  level,  though 
they  usually  appear  to  better  advantage  when  raised.  A  good  loamy 
soil  with  about  a  fourth  part  of  broken  bricks  added  will  suit 
them  better  than  the  poor  sandy  stuff  they  are  usually  planted  in. 

S.  H. 


CULTIVATION  OF  THE   BOUGAINVILLEA  IN  POTS. 

BY    J.    W.    SILVER, 

Head  Gardener,  The  Laurels,  Taunton. 

|iHE  cultivation  of  this  magnificent  stove  plant  has  already 
been  described  in  these  pages,  and  it  may  appear  almost 
unnecessary  to  again  advert  to  it;  but  its  adaptability  for 
exhibition,  and  its  usefulness  in  establishments  where 
plants  of  large  size  are  required  for  decoration  pur- 
poses, has  induced  me  to  make  a  few  remarks  relative  to  its  manage- 
ment in  pots. 

It  is  simply  impossible  to  convey  an  adequate  idea  of  the  splen- 
dour of  the  Bougainvillea  when  well  grown  and  properly  trained. 
The  principal  condition  necessary  for  the  production  of  large  well- 


THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND   GARDEN   GUIDE.  357 

flowered  specimens  in  pots  is  to  have  the  wood  of  the  previous  season 
thoroughly  matured  ;  and  to  insure  this  being  done,  keep  the  pots 
plunged  in  a  bottom-heat  varying  from  70°  to  85°.  This  is  of  very  great 
importance  during  the  growing  season  ;  and  indeed  it  is  hardly  pos- 
sible to  secure  a  well  finished  plant  without  the  aid  of  bottom-heat. 
In  the  absence  of  bottom-heat  being  provided  with  the  aid  of  hot  water, 
tan  or  leaves  may  be  substituted,  as  both  will  produce  a  nice  warmth, 
and  probably  be  more  congenial  to  the  plants  than  that  from  the 
hot-water  pipes.  It  is  important  to  remember  that  the  greater  the 
body  of  tan  or  leaves,  the  more  powerful  and  continuous  will  the 
heat  be.  As  soon  as  the  heat  from  the  tan  or  leaves  is  exhausted, 
take  out  the  bed  to  the  depth  of  the  pots,  and  renew  it,  by  which 
means  a  constant  supply  of  heat  maybeobtained  throughout  theseason. 

The  best  of  all  the  Bougainvilleas  for  exclusively  growing  in 
pots  is  B.  glabra.  B.  speciosa  will  do  well,  and  flower  freely  in  pots ; 
but  to  grow  it  to  perfection,  it  should  be  planted  out  in  a  bed  of 
soil,  and  trained  to  the  roof,  so  as  to  enable  its  lovely  breadths  of 
mauve-pink  bracts  to  hang  gracefully  down.  But  as  these  remarks 
are  only  intended  to  refer  to  pot-culture,  I  will  not  here  advert  to 
their  management  when  planter)  out  in  borders.  Allow  me  to  recom- 
mend glabra  for  summer,  and  if  flowering  specimens  are  required  in 
midwinter,  or  in  early  spring  and  summer,  speciosa  may  be  employed, 
but  it  may  be  well  to  mention  here  that  in  purchasing  the  last  men- 
tioned variety,  it  is  necessary  to  apply  to  a  firm  that  may  be  de- 
pended upon — Messrs.  Veitch  and  Sons  for  instance — as  it  not  un- 
frequently  happens  that  spectabilis — -a  very  shy  blooming  species — 
is  substituted  for  it. 

Many  young  beginners  fail  to  produce  good  specimens,  through 
growing  in  a  position  where  they  have  an  insufficiency  of  light. 
Shade  is  the  cause  of  thin,  immature  wood,  from  which  it  is  impos- 
sible to  obtain  flowers  in  any  quantity.  Therefore,  for  this  reason, 
the  plants  during  the  growing  season  must  have  full  exposure  to 
both  light  and  sun,  and  only  be  shaded  to  preserve  the  flowers. 
Even  this  is  injurious  if  carried  to  any  extreme,  as  it  materially 
assists  in  the  deterioration  of  the  flowers.  Liquid  manure  may  be 
administered  copiously  during  the  season  of  active  growth,  but  as 
the  flowers  commence  to  expand,  it  must  be  sparingly  given,  and 
eventually  withheld  altogether.  Frequent  shifts  are  not  by  any 
means  necessary,  although  the  plants  under  consideration  are  gross 
feeders.  The  plan  I  invariably  adopt,  with  very  successful  results  is, 
after  the  plants  attain  specimen  size,  to  give  an  annual  shift  only 
into  as  large  a  sized  pot  as  convenient.  I  find  this,  with  the  assist- 
ance of  liquid  manure,  quite  sufficient  to  produce  large,  well-flowered 
plants.  As  an  example  of  this,  allow  me  to  mention  that  a  plant  of 
glabra  here,  trained  on  a  balloon-shaped  trellis,  that  has  received 
this  treatment,  has  presented  the  appearance  of  a  globe  of  lovely 
mauve  bracts  since  the  first  week  in  June,  and  is  now,  November  11, 
covered  with  them. 

A  thorough  season  of  rest  is  most  important,  and  from  October 
until  March  no  more  water  should  be  given  than  is  necessary  to  keep 
the  soil  from  becoming  dust  dry. 


358 


THE  FLORAL   WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 


In  pruning  glabra  the  wood  of  the  previous  season  should  be  cut 
back  to  two  eyes,  and  the  young  shoots  thinned  out  to  one  to  each 
spur.  This  operation  should  be  performed  when  the  plants  are 
quite  at  rest,  which,  as  a  rule,  occurs  early  in  January.  This  is  also 
the  best  time  to  repot,  as  the  cultivator  has  more  spare  time,  gene- 
rally speaking,  at  that  season  thau,  perhaps,  at  any  other  ;  therefore 
everything  that  refers  to  pruning  and  training  should  be  done  when 
the  time  can  be  afforded  for  doing  it  properly.  The  trellis  to  my 
mind  most  suitable  for  training  the  Bougainvillea  is  one  either  in 
the  shape  of  a  barrel  or  balloon.  Both  these  display  the  lovely 
colour  of  the  flowers  to  great  advantage,  as  well  as  to  permit  of  the 
growth  being  trained  more  easily.  The  compost  I  have  found  best 
suited  to  their  requirements  is  prepared  by  well  incorporating  toge- 
ther two  parts  good  turfy  loam,  and  one  part  each  of  fibry  peat  and 
leaf-mould,  with  a  proportionate  quantity  of  silver-sand.  A  few 
nodules  of  charcoal  may  also  be  added  to  this  compost. 

The  pots  into  which  the  plants  are  intended  to  be  put  should  be 
perfectly  clean  and  well  drained.  A  few  pieces  of  charcoal  may  also 
be  advantageously  mixed  with  the  drainage. 


inventions, 


SENDEE'S    PORTABLE   PLANT   PEOTECTOES. 

T  the  exhibition  of  the  Eoyal  Horticultural  Society,  held 
at  Nottingham  last  July,  Mr.  W.  E.  Eendle,  the 
inventor  of  the  "  Portable  Plant  Protectors,"  figured 
in  the  Floral  World  for  January,  1S70,  exhibited 
several  new  and  improved  forms  of  these  invaluable 
to  which  we  have  for  some  time  past  been  anxious  to 
direct  attention.  The  principles  upon 
which  these  Protectors  are  con- 
structed were  briefly  described  in 
the  communication  referred  to,  and 
beyond  saying  that  they  have,  in 
their  usefulness  for  protective  pur- 
poses, more  than  justified  all  that  we 
said  in  their  praise  when  introducing 
them  to  the  notice  of  our  readers,  we 
need  not  further  allude  to  the  old 
form.  The  old  forms  are  retained, 
but  very  material  improvements  have 
been  effected  in  the  details  of  con- 
struction, and  by  the  introduction  of  a 
movable  coping  as  here  shown  (Fig.  1), 
increased  facilities  are  provided  for  the  removal  of  the  glass,  and 
the  invention  is  now  as  perfect  as  it  possibly  can  be.  The  span  roof 
protectors  now  come  almost  within  the  category  of  houses,  for  they 
can  be  had  of  any  width,  ranging  from  three  to  eight  feet  wide. 
Fig.  2  represents  one  of  the  last-mentioned  width,  with  galvanized 
middle  grooves  to  hold  the  glass  ;  but  those  not  exceeding  four  feet 
in  width  do  not  require  the  grooves,  as  one  sheet  of  glass  on  each 


Fig.  1. — Grooved  Brick  for 
.Apex  Roof. 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 


359 


side  is  sufficient.     Fig.  3  illustrates  a  valuable  invention  for  the  pro- 
tection of  cordon  trees  when  in  bloom,  and  also  for  accelerating  the 


ripening  of  their  crops,  and  it  is  a=i  ingenious  in  construction  as  it  is 
useful  in  character.    The  inventor,  the  Hev.  Th.  C.  Brehaut,  Richmond 


3G0 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 


House,  Jersey,  one  of  the  most  skilful  amateur  horticulturists  of  the 
present  day,  thus  describes  it  : — 

"  The  Cordon  Case  illustrates  a  portion  of  a  twelve-foot  length, 
with  legs  of  ten  inches  above  the  soil,  and  three  inches  buried  to 
steady  the  case.  The  front  glass  is  eighteen  inches  long,  and  there 
is  a  half  hip  of  wood  at  the  back,  removable  to  ventilate  and  prune 

in  bad  weather.  In  fine 
weather  the  floor,  on  which 
the  peach  or  apricot  cor- 
don lies,  is  lowered  to  the 
earth  to  ventilate,  prune, 
or  syringe,  aud  expose  the 
cordon  to  the  air  at  plea- 
sure. The  leading  idea  is, 
that  the  whole  work  is  to 
be  done  by  raising  this 
floor  to  the  level  of  the 
front  portion  (which  closes 
up  the  case)  iu  bad  wea- 
ther, and  by  lowering  the 
floor  in  fine  weather.  The 
cordon  is  inserted  at  the 
side  of  the  case,  and  may 
be  planted  in  the  earth,  or 
from  a  pot.  Vines  are 
well  suited  for  this  case, 
which  is  also  approved  of 
by  Mr.  Rivers  ;  and,  being 
very  portable  and  cheap, 
might  be  used  for  many 
other  purposes,  such  as 
strawberries  or  bedding 
plants." 

Brehaut's  Portable 
Lawn  Conservatory,  ano- 
ther of  Mr.  Bundle's  re- 
cent introductions,  is  also 
a  most  novel  and  useful 
invention,  and  is  of  equal 
value  for  the  cultivation 
of  choice  plants  during  the 
summer,  the  acceleration 
of  the  growth  of  straw- 
berries in  pots  in  the 
early  spring  months,  and 
for  the  protection  of  such 
things  as  pansies,  auri- 
culas, and  the  choicest 
kinds   of  alpine    plants   during  the  winter. 

The  Patent  Glass  Copings  and  the  Eeversible  Fruit  Walls,  two 
of  the  most  important  of  Mr.   Bendle's  introductions,  are  of  the 


Fig.  3. 


-Brehault's  Portable  Cordon  Case. 
(Rendle's  Patent). 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND   GARDEN   GUIDE. 


361 


utmost  value  in  garden  economy,  and  demand  the  instant  attention 
of  both  amateur  and  professional  horticulturists.  The  glass  coping 
is  intended  for  the  protection  of  peach,  nectarine,  and  other  lruit- 
trees  trained  to  walls  when  in  bloom,  and  is  fixed  to  the  walls  by- 
means  of  zinc  grooves,  so  that  the  glass  can  be  removed  instantly 
when  not  required ;  and  by  the  suspension  of  netting  or  canvas,  so 
as  to  reach  nearly  to  the  ground,  the  trees  are  most  effectually  pro- 
tected  from  frost.  The  value  of  wide  copings  in  the  protection  of 
fruit  trees  in  the  spring  has  long  been  recognized  by  practical  hor- 
ticulturists, but,  up  to  the  present  time,  nothing  of  a  satisfactory 
character  has  been  done  to  supply  this  long-felt  want.  These  copings, 
without  depriving  the  trees  of  a  ray  of  light,  effectually  protect  the 
flowers  from  frost  and  wet,  and,  apart  from  their  low  price,  can  be 
heartily  recommended  to  the  notice  of  all  who  are  the  fortunate 
possessors  of  a  fruit  wall.  The  Eeversible  Fruit  Walls  are, so  de- 
signed that  trees  trained  to  a  common  wire  espalier  can,  with  the  aid 
of  a  specially  made  thick  textile  fabric,  be  either  protected  from  ex- 


Fig.  4. Manner  of  covering  the  Protectors  in  Frosty  Weather. 

cessive  heat  or  excessive  cold,  as  may  be  considered  the  most 
desirable.  The  trees  can  be  protected  from  the  effects  of  outbursts 
of  brilliant  sunshine  during  the  winter  months,  and  their  flowering 
season  delayed  considerably,  a  most  important  point  when  we  take 
into  consideration  the  unfavourable  character  of  the  weather  when 
peach  and  other  fruit-trees  usually  bloom,  and  they  can  be  safely  shel- 
tered from  northerly  blasts  when  in  bloom.  The  trees  can  also  be 
sheltered  during  the  various  stages  of  growth  prior  to  the  fruit 
attaining  maturity,  and  it  can  be  removed  altogether  after  the  crop 
is  gathered,  and  the  wood  placed  under  the  conditions  most  favour- 
able to  its  becoming  thoroughly  ripened.  By  elevating  the  patent 
grooved  bricks  upon  ordinary  kiln  bricks,  and  leaving  a  few  openiugs 
on  each  side,  the  most  efficient  means  of  ventilation  is  secured 
during  the  summer  season  ;  and  by  covering  the  glass  with  mats,  or 
straw,  or  long  litter,  as  shown  in  Tig.  4,  frost  can  be  excluded. 

For  further  information  we  must  refer  our  readers  to  the  inventor, 
Mr.  W.  E.  Eendle,  of  Westminster  Chambers,  Victoria  Street, 
London,  S.W.,  where  we  understand  samples  of  all  the  forms  of 
protectors  to  which  reference  is  here  made,  as  well  as  information 
with  respect  to  the  prices,  can  be  obtained. 


362 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 


HEATING  PLANT-HOUSES  WITH  GAS. 

HE  proper  use  of  gas  in  the  heating  of  plant-houses  has 
been  sufficiently  explained  and  enforced  in  the  pages  of 
the  Floral  World,  and  we  have  from  time  to  time 
recommended  gas-heating  apparatus  to  the  notice  of 
our  readers.  We  cannot  now  afford  space  to  treat  of 
the  elementary  principles  of  this  subject,  but  we  must  repeat,  as 


Wright's  Gas-heating  Apparatus. 

proper  to  the  occasion,  that  wherever  it  is  possible,  the  furnace  and 
boiler  should  be  provided  for  in  a  chamber  apart  from  the  plant- 
house,  and  that  the  heating  of  the  plant-house  should  be  accom- 
plished by  means  of  a  system  of  hot-water  pipes.  Our  present 
object  is  to  inform  our  readers  of  the  most  perfect  system  of 
gas-heating  apparatus  we  have  hitherto  become  acquainted  with, 
the  inventors  and  manufacturers  of  which  are  Messrs.  Wright  and 
Co.,  30,  Broad  Street,  Islington,  Birmingham.  As  will  be  seen  by 
the  anuexed  figures,  which  really  do  not  require  explanation,  Messrs. 
Wright  take  the  very  safe  course  of  following  the  general  scheme 
of  what  may  be  termed  the  orthodox  hot-water  system,  and  the  only 
difference  between  their  method  and  that  of  the  ordinary  upright 
conical  boiler  is  that  the  heat  is  derived  from  a  gas  flame  instead  of 
from  a  coke  fire.  One  special  advantage  this  system  certainly  has, 
and  that  is  the  large  extent  of  radiating  surface  of  the  hot-water 
pipes,  which  does  away    with  the  necessity  of  "  driving"  on  frosty 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  3G3 

nights,  for  a  quite  moderate  flame,  diffusing  its  heat  slowly  over  a 
comparatively  great  extent  of  piping,  exerts  a  more  powerful  and 
constant  effect  on  the  atmosphere  of  the  house  than  it  would  do  if 
the  piping  were  restricted,  and  the  effect  converted  from  spreadiug 
into  jumping,  for  we  want  no  jumping  of  artificial  heat  in  plant- 
houst-s.  S.  H. 


THE  MANAGEMENT   OF  PLANT-HOUSES   IN  WINTER. 

ET    A    KENTISH    GABDENEE. 

IS"  the  following  remarks  my  object  is  to  assist  the  amateur 
readers  of  these  pages,  believing  as  I  do  they  will  ap- 
preciate any  effort  that  we  can  make  to  assist  them  in 
the  proper  management  of  their  plant-houses.  Amongst 
those  for  whom  we  write,  many  grave  errors  are  com- 
mitted in  the  management  of  plants  under  glass  at  this  time  of  the 
year,  through  want  of  knowledge  of  the  conditions  essential  to 
success.  This  is  especially  the  case  with  fire-heat  and  air-giving 
during  the  winter  months.  To  these  I  might  add  the  subject  of 
watering.  All  these  are  points  upon  which  much  has  been  said  and 
written  ;  but  for  all  that,  there  is  at  the  present  moment  as  much 
need  of  this  being  repeated  again  as  ever  there  was. 

Doubtless  many  have  improved  through  what  has  been  done  for 
them,  but  unfortunately  those  who  are  accustomed  to  look  about 
them,  and  to  note  what  they  see,  can  tell  us  that  there  are  some 
who  have  yet  to  learn  the  principles  upon  which  to  act  when  attend- 
'  ing  to  these  operations.  Did  this  only  extend  to  the  case  of  the 
amateur,  we  might  be  less  pointed  in  our  remarks ;  but  we  see  it 
sometimes  with  those  who  wish  to  be  thought  good  gardeners. 
And  to  such  what  ought  I  to  say  ?  If  I  were  to  tell  them  point- 
blank  that  they  were  wrong  in  their  notions  about  excluding  frost, 
and  keeping  plants  healthy,  they  would  be  offended,  so  I  must  be 
content  to  tell  them  to  ascertain  the  whereabouts  of  some  enthu- 
siastic amateur,  and  get  a  leaf  out  of  his  book  about  the  proper 
management  of  a  greenhouse  ;  for  there  are  mauy  such  from  whom 
they  might  learn  some  useful  lessons.  He  will  tell  them  that  he 
does  not  get  the  house  up  by  fire-heat  to  60°  at  seven  o'clock  in  the 
evening,  and  then  leave  his  fire  and  the  internal  air  of  the  house  to 
go  down  to  freezing  point  by  the  morning.  He  will  tell  them,  too, 
that  such  extremes  of  temperature  in  the  space  of  twelve  hours  are 
positively  killing  the  plants  by  inches  ;  because  they  are  as  it  were 
roasted  at  night  and  frozen  in  the  morning.  Such  unthinking 
individuals  should  place  themselves  in  a  similar  position;  perhaps 
then  they  would  be  better  able  to  judge  if  it  was  conducive  to 
health.  If  it  proves  not  so,  why  then  they  have  only  to  draw  a 
comparison  between  themselves  and  the  plants  in  their  houses 
which  are  perhaps  as  sensitive  as  themselves  to  these  sudden  varia- 
tions in  temperature.     Surely  they  would  then  understand  why  the 


364  THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 

verbenas  in  their  cutting-pots  die  off,  and  the  cinerarias  are  in- 
fested with  fly,  and  the  camellia  buds  fall  from  their  stems,  and 
many  other  equally  perplexing  losses,  all  which  I  could  easily  name, 
but  it  would  be  occupy iug  valuable  space,  and  serve  no  particular 
purpose. 

Indispensable  as  is  the  use  of  fire-heat  for  the  exclusion  of  frost, 
and  to  dry  up  damp,  it  is  nevertheless  equally  injurious  if  applied 
when  it  is  not  wanted ;  and  for  such  subjects  as  usually  occupy  the 
majority  of  greenhouses,  they  are  better  without  it  than  with  it,  ex- 
cept in  the  case  of  frost,  or  a  prolonged  interval  of  cold  damp 
weather.  Even  in  these  cases  there  ought  to  be  some  discrimination 
about  applying  it  in  an  ordinary  greenhouse  if  closed  at  three  o'clock 
in  the  afternoon.  It  should  be  remembered  that  from  six  to  ten 
degrees  of  frost  outside  will  do  little  harm  to  the  occupants  of  the 
greenhouse;  in  fact  they  would  endure  the  thermometer  going  down 
to  freezing  point  in  the  house  better  than  they  would  a  sudden  rise 
in  the  heat,  as  the  latter  calls  into  speedy  action  many  important 
organs  of  the  plants,  and  which  are  as  suddenly  arrested  in  their 
progress  by  the  fire  being  left  to  go  out  early;  and  so  they  get  a 
chill,  which  if  frequently  repeated  must  tend  to  weaken  them,  and 
may  sometimes  kill  them  outright.  I  have  heard  our  Editor  say  that 
he  has  seen  his  geraniums  covered  with  hoar  frost,  and  the  ther- 
mometer down  to  26'  in  the  house,  yet  no  harm  was  done  because  of 
the  care  taken  never  to  allow  rapid  changes  or  great  extremes  of 
temperature. 

With  all  good  gardeners  it  is  now  an  acknowledged  fact  that 
greenhouse  plants,  except  for  special  purposes,  do  better  without 
fire-heat  than  with  it,  when  frost  can  be  kept  at  bay  without  its  aid, 
and  damp  expelled  by  the  genial  winds  of  heaven.  But  from  this  it 
must  not  be  inferred  that  1  am  advocating  the  discoutinuance  of  fire- 
heat,  and  to  leave  our  plant-houses  to  the  mercy  of  the  elements. 
Such  a  course  would  be  madness  on  my  part;  but  what  I  want  to 
impress  upon  the  reader's  mind  is  that  he  should  be  less  liberal  in 
his  artificial  heat,  and  that  he  should  study  the  well-doing  of  his 
plants,  and  not  quite  so  much  his  own  comfort,  at  every  slight  ap- 
pearance of  frost.  I  grant  it  is  very  comfortable  to  make  up  a  fire 
every  afternoon  when  the  wind  blows  from  the  east,  because  then 
you  can  go  to  your  own  fire,  and  feel  yourself  safe  if  there  should 
come  a  frost.  But  what  if  no  frost  should  come?  Would  not  the 
plants  in  your  house  have  been  better  without  the  fire,  and  ought 
there  not  to  be  a  regret  in  the  morning  that  you  did  not  wait  till 
eight  or  nine  o'clock  in  the  evening  to  see  bow  it  was  likely  to  be ; 
and  that  the  firing  had  been  uselessly  consumed,  and  the  plants 
positively  injured  'i  The  reader  must  not  think  that  I  am  drawing 
upon  my  imagination  to  make  out  a  case  to  illustrate  what  1  want 
to  say,  because  unhappily  there  is  no  need  of  that.  Such  instances 
as  I  have  just  tried  to  relate  are  of  too  frequent  occurrence,  and 
while  they  are  continued  as  they  are  in  the  present  day  amongst  our 
villa  gardeners  I  shall  continue  to  crave  a  short  space  every  year  in 
these  pages  to  remind  them  of  it,  with  a  view  to  making  them 
brighter  ornaments  to  our  profession. 


THE    FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  365 

As  a  rule,  fire  to  exclude  frost  should  not  be  started  till  it  is 
actually  freezing,  The  object  should  be  just  to  keep  pace  with  the 
frost,  and  not  to  drive  the  thermometer  up  to  55°  aud  60°.  The 
highest  point  at  which  the  thermometer  should  be  kept  when  the 
fire  is  banked  up  for  the  night  is  42°  or  40",  or  even  38°  is  a  better 
standard,  and  which  the  practical  reader  will  be  sure  to  adopt ;  but 
at  42°  no  positive  injury  can  be  done,  and  will  perhaps  be  safer  for 
the  amateur  gardener. 

Eire-heat  for  the  expulsion  of  damp  is  also  worthy  of  a  remark 
here,  because  when  it  is  judiciously  applied  it  adds  much  to  keep  the 
occupants  of  the  house  in  a  healthy  condition.  As  a  general  rule, 
once  a  week  will  be  enough  for  the  purpose,  and  then  there  are  many 
fine  dry  weeks  through  the  winter  that  would  not  require  it,  if  only 
an  ordinary  amount  of  care  is  used  in  watering.  When  the  fire  is 
lighted  for  this  purpose,  the  day  should  be  fine,  that  all  ventilators 
may  be  opened,  so  as  to  admit  of  a  free  circulation  of  air  amongst  all 
the  plants. 

This  now  leads  me  to  say  something  on  the  subject  of  air-giving. 
The  subject  of  air-giving  is  a  point  in  the  management  of  plant- 
houses  on  which  definite  rules  cannot  be  given  for  the  winter  season, 
so  much  depends  upon  the  outward  elements.  It  cannot  be  done  in 
a  mechanical  sort  of  a  manner,  at  stated  hours  in  the  day,  because 
we  must  be  guided  by  the  state  of  the  weather,  and  the  condition  of 
the  plants.  But  taking  the  generality  of  small  houses,  they  do  not 
get  air  enough ;  this  is  owing  to  a  prevailing  notion  that  the  plants 
do  not  require  it,  unless  the  sun  is  shining  brightly ;  but  this  is  a 
false  notion,  and  fully  accounts  for  what  we  see  in  the  shape  of  weak 
and  sickly  plants,  drawn  up  to  a  state  approaching  to  wretchedness, 
and  all  for  the  want  of  a  sufficient  quantity  of  fresh  and  pure  air. 
To  the  unitiated,  this  will  be  a  sufficient  explanation  of  the  cause  of 
the  flower-stems  of  primulas  being  twice  the  length  they  ought  to 
be,  and  why  those  flowers  which  should  be  pink  are  no  colour  at  all. 
This  will  explain,  too,  the  reason  of  the  flowers  of  early  cinerarias 
and  tulips  being  small  and  almost  colourless.  In  a  word,  it  will 
explain  the  true  cause  of  many  losses  and  disappointments  which  we 
in  our  capacity  are  obliged  to  hear  of.  Sometimes  we  are  asked  to 
condemn  a  quite  different  agency  for  these  mishaps,  but  this  we 
always  decline  to  do,  because  unintentionally  the  inquirer  lets  us 
into  the  secret  of  his  management  by  the  inquiries  he  makes.  There- 
fore, before  we  take  up  complaints  against  seedsmen,  we  always  wish 
to  know  how  the  plants  were  treated.  Air-giving  ought  to  be  at- 
tended to  the  first  thing  in  the  morning,  by  putting  on  a  little  at  the 
top  of  the  house  at  all  times  when  it  is  not  actually  freezing.  If  it 
is  a  mild  morning,  the  same  may  be  done  with  the  bottom  ventilators, 
gradually  increasing  it  till  the  weather  will  enable  you  to  judge  how 
much  can  be  given  for  the  day.  Endeavour  as  much  as  possible  to 
create  a  circulation  through  the  house  early  in  the  day,  that  the 
leaves  may  perform  their  proper  functions  in  a  fresh  atmosphere, 
and  that  those  impurities  which  they  give  out  during  the  night  may 
be  dispersed.  It  is  essential  that,  with  the  stimulus  of  daylight  they 
should  breathe  a  fresh  air,  for  on  it  they  depend  for  a  certain  amount 


366  THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN    GUIDE. 

of  sustenance  to  keep  them  in  health.  In  conjunction  with  air- 
giving,  I  may  say  a  few  words  on  early  closing,  for  this  is  highly 
desirable,  as  the  solar  heat  so  enclosed  is  more  congenial'not  only  to 
the  health  but  to  the  wants  of  the  plants,  as  the  fact  of  its  being 
naturally  supplied  must  convince  every  one.  From  the  time  these 
notes  come  to  the  hands  of  the  reader,  until  the  end  of  next  March, 
all  plant-houses  should  be  closed  at  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon. 
This  will  shut  in  a  great  deal  of  natural  warmth,  which  is  liberally 
generated  in  the  house  during  the  day,  and  will  tend  materially  to 
reduce  the  necessity  of  fire-heat  should  frost  set  in. 

On  the  subject  of  watering  of  greenhouse  plants  during  winter,  a 
young  friend  has  recently  written  to  me  in  the  following  strain:  "  I 
have  a  small  house,  chiefly  of  pelargoniums.  I  read  that  during 
frosty  weather  greenhouse  plants  should  not  be  watered.  Is  this 
correct  ?  "  Now  as  the  reply  I  gave  to  that  note  will  explain  all 
that  I  think  it  needful  to  say  on  the  subject  of  watering  here,  I  shall 
give  it  at  full  length  :  "  Never  mind  about  what  you  have  somewhere 
read  that  greenhouse  plants  should  not  be  watered  in  frosty  weather, 
or  you  will  have  to  regret  doing  so,  because  as  such  wreather  is  often 
attended  with  a  good  deal  of  sunshine,  as  well  as  the  extra  fire-heat 
which  is  necessary,  and  which  tends  greatly  to  dry  up  the  soil  in  the 
pots,  they  actually  require  more  water  than  in  dull  cloudy  weather  ; 
but  do  not  give  more  than  is  just  necessary  to  keep  them  from 
flagging,  as  you  must  not  encourage  them  to  make  any  growth  under 
such  conditions.  Look  over  the  plants  every  other  day,  but  never 
give  water  to  a  plant  at  this  season  unless  it  wants  it ;  what  water- 
ing you  do,  do  it  before  10  a.m.,  and  if  there  is  a  nice  mild  air,  give 
plenty  of  it,  to  dry  up  any  water  that  may  be  spilt  upon  the  shelves 
or  floor  of  the  house.  But  if  the  air  should  be  too  keen  and  sharp, 
light  a  little  fire,  and  open  the  top  ventilators,  that  there  may  be  no 
damp  hanging  about  the  house  at  the  approach  of  night." 


HINTS  ON  CHEISTMAS  DECOEATIONS. 

PAYING  been  many  times  concerned  in  the  direction  and 
preparation  of  floral  displays  at  Christmas,  it  has  occurred 
to  me  that  a  few  practical  observations  may  be  useful 
to  our  readers.  The  materials  available  at  the  present 
time  are  few,  if  we  keep  strictly  to  the  use  of  natural 
objects,  but  we  may  augment  them  by  means  of  suitable  additions 
of  an  artificial  character.  I  once  had  the  assistance  of  some  ladies 
who  were  expert  and  tasteful  in  the  making  of  paper  flowers,  and  by 
their  kind  help,  a  brilliant  display  of  paper  Chrysanthemums  set  in 
the  midst  of  evergreens  was  the  result.  But  I  leave  thin  part  of  the 
subject  to  others,  and  shall  make  remarks  only  upon  such  materials 
as  the  garden  and  greenhouse  will  supply. 

Christmas  decorations  should  be  prepared  with  a  view  to  their 
being  effective   by    gaslight.      Hence,    elaborate   colouring   ia    less 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND   GARDEN    GUIDE.  367 

needful  than  broad  and  bold  effects.  Half-tints,  as  a  rule,  are  quite 
washv  by  gaslight,  though  some  neutrals,  such  as  lilac,  dove  colour, 
and  fawn,  are  valuable,  as  they  afford  by  gaslight  various  chaste 
shades  of  grey,  and  are  more  pleasing  than  white.  These  colours 
■will  generally  be  preferable  to  red,  or  any  of  the  primary  colours,  for 
ribbons  to  tie  garlands,  and  in  artificial  flowers  to  brighten  the 
effects  of  the  stronger  colours.  The  two  predominating  colours  in 
Christmas  decorations  should  be  red  and  gbeen.  Any  and  every 
shade  of  the  two  colours  can  be  used  to  advantage,  but  depth  and 
richness  are  needed  to  be  consistent  with  the  season.  As  it  is  well 
to  be  appropriate,  those  who  prepare  artificial  flowers  should  select 
subjects  that  are  in  bloom  at  this  time  of  year.  Thus  Chrysan- 
themums and  Camellias  are  at  once  easy  to  make,  admit  of  great 
variety  of  colour,  and  belong  properly  to  the  season.  The  Tree 
Carnations  are  also  in  flower,  and  therefore  the  brilliant  Clove  may 
be  imitated.  The  mention  of  these  things  reminds  me  to  say  that 
plants  may  now  be  purchased  in  bloom  of  the  following  kinds,  all 
adapted  for  embellishment :  Camellias,  Chrysanthemums,  Tree  Car- 
nations, Chinese  Primulas,  Mignonette,  Persian  Cyclamen,  snowy 
Deutzia,  Early  Tulips,  Poinsettia  pulcherrima  (a  gorgeous  thing  with 
large  vivid  scarlet  floral  bracts),  a  few  Heaths,  and  Azaleas.  The 
garden  should  supply  many  kinds  of  evergieen  shrubs,  and  an 
abundance  of  berries.  To  name  the  Holly  is  of  course  proper,  it  is 
the  tree  of  greatest  renown  at  Christmastide,  but  we  may  also  make 
use  of  the  berries  of  several  kinds  of  Thorn,  Cotoneaster,  and  common 
Euonynuis.  From  the  greenhouse  we  may  obtain  a  gem  of  priceless 
value,  the  neat  little  Solanum  capsicastrum,  or  its  companion  plant, 
Solanum  pseudo-capsicum.  From  the  same  source  too  we  may  even 
hope  for  pot  plants  of  the  Aucuha  Japonica  with  red  berries  on 
them,  and  the  stove  should  supply  Ardisia  crenulata,  Eivinia  humilis, 
and  the  Tangerine  orange.  I  had  almost  forgotten  to  name  Skimmia 
Japonica  and  Skimmia  oblata,  two  neat  dwarf  rhododendron-like 
shrubs  that  are  smothered  with  scarlet  berries  now  ;  they  are  quite 
hardy,  and  may  be  grown  in  pots  expressly  for  Christmas  decoration. 
In  cutting  evergreens,  it  is  important  to  bear  in  mind  that  every 
separate  kind  is  adapted  for  a  separate  use.  Thus  the  common 
Laurel,  Aucuba,  and  Portugal  Laurel  are  well  adapted  for  lar°e 
work,  such  as  festooning  the  pillars  in  churches,  or  for  the  embellish- 
ment of  entrance-halls ;  but  in  dining-rooms  and  refectories  they 
have  a  coarse  appearance.  Hollies  are  never  coarse,  and  never 
inappropriate.  The  neatest  way  to  make  wreaths  of  leaves  and 
flowers  is  to  cut  a  lot  of  Irish  ivy,  and  tie  every  leaf  separately  on 
lengths  of  rope,  and  pin  the  flowers  on  after  the  wreaths  are 
suspended.  It  is  astonishing  how  quickly  a  few  score  yards  of 
wreaths  may  be  made  by  people  who  set  about  the  work  in  earnest. 
In  gardens  near  town,  evergreens  are  generally  so  sooty  that 
it  is  not  a  very  delicate  business  to  handle  them  ;  but  as  walls 
require  to  be  kept  clean,  a  little  purification  of  the  leaves  should  be 
attempted,  especially  of  such  as  are  to  be  much  handled,  and  are 
ultimately  to  touch  walls  or  curtains.  Let  all  the  stufl'  be  carried  to 
a  dry  clean  shed  or  spare  room,  and  there  set  a  person  to  work  with 


368  THE   FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 

a  heap  of  dry  cloths  of  auy  kind,  his  or  her  duty  being  to  wipe  the 
surfaces  of  the  leaves  and  throw  them  into  clean  baskets  ready  for 
use.  "Washing  is  bad  practice — in  fact,  worse  than  letting  the  dirt 
remain.  Our  country  readers  know  nothing  of  the  smoke-plague. 
To  them  a  twig  of  holly  or  mistletoe  is  as  good  an  emblem  of  purity 
as  of  Christmas  fun  and  Christmas  cheer. 

It  is  the  custom  to  introduce  plants  and  flowers  on  the  dinner- 
table,  and  in  apartments  appropriated  to  festivities.  Very  pretty 
groups  may  be  made  at  a  very  small  cost  of  time  and  trouble  for  the 
centres  of  tables,  for  side-boards,  and  especially  for  entrance-halls, 
by  means  of  pot  plants  and  small  twigs  of  variegated  ivy  clothed 
with  scarlet  berries.  The  plants  most  suitable  are  Poinsettias, 
Solanums,  Skimmias,  Primulas,  and  perhaps  the  Christmas  Rose. 
Branches  of  the  glorious  Pyracantha,  or  evergreen  thorn,  with  its 
huge  bunches  of  fieiy  or  orange-red  berries,  may  also  be  obtainable. 
Now  how  are  we  to  make  our  groups  P  We  want,  first,  some  kind 
of  frame- work  to  enclose  it.  The  lattice  flower-pot  covers  sold  by 
Carter  and  Co.,  Barr  and  Sugden,  and  other  dealers  in  such  things, 
answer  admirably,  if  cut  through,  for  one  cover  will  then  draw  out 
and  make  two  or  three  yards  of  pretty  lattice-work.  Moss  is  not 
nice  stuff  to  bring  into  a  house,  and  therefore  it  is  not  advised  to 
use  it  for  the  substance  of  the  bed,  otherwise  it  would  be  the  very 
thing  we  want  to  fill  in  between  the  pots,  and  make  a  sort  of  back 
to  the  lattice-work.  Where  there's  a  will  there's  a  way.  The  ladies 
of  a  household  will  soon  find  something  cl:an  and  dry  to  serve  for 
moss  to  bed  the  pots  in,  but  if  they  want  a  hint  to  give  them  a  start, 
I  will  suggest  that  Berlin  wool  of  a  bright  deep  grass-green  colour, 
clipped  into  inch  or  half-inch  lengths,  will  make  splendid  artificial 
moss,  and  may  be  put  away  when  done  with  so  as  to  come  in  again 
and  again  for  a  series  of  years.  When  such  a  group  is  made,  a  finish 
may  be  given  by  means  of  wreaths  of  holly  arching  over.  These  of 
course  should  be  made  of  wire  let  into  blocks  of  wood  at  each  end, 
and  bent  to  the  required  curve.  The  wire  should  first  be  bound 
with  common  hempen  yarn,  and  then  the  little  twigs  of  variegated 
holly,  variegated  ivy,  and  other  variegated  shrubs  may  be  tied  on. 
Neatness  must  be  aimed  at  in  making  such  wreaths,  as  these  and  a 
circular  group  will  look  best  if  arched  over  with  two  wreaths  crossing 
each  other  at  right  angles.  A  little  sprig  of  something  pretty  should 
be  hung  in  the  centre  where  the  two  wreaths  cross  each  other. 
Toere  are  two  evils  incident  to  the  introduction  of  a  decoration  of 
this  kind  to  the  dinner-table  :  first,  it  is  likely  to  interrupt  the  view, 
and  so  prevent  people  seeing  each  other ;  aud,  secondly,  it  is  likely 
to  occupy  more  room  than  can  be  spared.  I  mention  these  matters 
that  they  may  be  thought  of  in  time,  for  I  should  be  sorry  to  be  the 
agent  in  any  case  of  marring  the  sociality  of  a  Christmas  board. 

Plateaux  and  epergnes  should  always  be  richly  furnished,  and 
everything  artificial  should  be  rigorously  excluded  from  them.  To 
devise  systematic  colourings  in  the  filling  of  these  things  is  I  con- 
ceive unnecessary  and  inadvisable  at  Christmas.  In  the  summer  we 
see  them  dressed  with  masses  of  white,  blue,  rose,  etc.,  etc.,  in  a 
most  systematic  way,  though  if  grace  is  secured  by  mixtures  it  is  far 


THE  FLORAL   WORLD   AND   GARDEN    GUIDE.  369 

preferable.  But  now  we  want  no  geometric  or  chromatic  rules, 
Delicate  touches  of  colour  are  of  no  consequence,  but  our  ideas  of 
warmth  and  plenty  should  be  kept  in  view  at  every  step.  Nothing 
snits  so  well  as  a  display  of  good  fruits  with  twigs  of  holly  and 
pyracantha,  and  a  few  good  flowers  sprinkled  over  them.  Apples 
and  pears  afford  splendid  masses  of  colour ;  camellias,  tulips,  and 
carnations  will  keep  fresh  and  beautiful  many  hours  if  their  stems 
are  tucked  in  between  cool  fruits,  for  of  course  there  must  be  no 
water  ;  and  it  is  advisable  there  should  be  nothing  poisonous — so  I 
say  nothing  of  the  Christmas  rose  or  of  the  Solanums  for  admixture 
with  fruits. 

The  following  are  most  valuable  shrubs  to  cut  from  for  Christmas 
decorations  :  Minorca  box,  round-leaved  box,  Lauristinus,  generally 
in  flower  at  this  time,  Arbutus  with  ripe  fruit,  Berberis  Darwinii, 
lovely  for  delicate  wreaths  and  fillets,  though  very  thorny,  Coto- 
neaster  rotundifolia,  Crataegus  pyracantha,  Daphne  laureola,  Euony- 
mus  Europreus,  the  leaves  are  off  now,  but  there  are  plenty  of  coral 
berries  ;  in  cutting  branches,  handle  them  tenderly,  for  the  berries 
fall  if  roughly  used.  Of  hollies,  the  silvery-leaved  kinds  are  un- 
doubtedly the  best,  for  they  glitter  splendidly  in  gaslight.  Phillyrea, 
several  sorts  ;  the  holly  oak  (Quercus  ilex)  is  first-rate.  Skimmias 
of  all  kinds. 

Lastly,  it  must  not  be  forgotten  that  vases  and  other  such 
receptacles  can  be  dressed  very  effectually  by  means  of  dried  grasses 
and  artificial  flowers.  But  for  information  on  growing,  preparing, 
and  arranging  these,  reference  must  be  made  to  the  Floral  World 
for  March  1869,  in  which  occurs  an  illustration  of  a  wreath  of 
artificial  flowers  and  grasses.  S.  H. 


WINTER  WOEK  IN  THE  KITCHEN  GAEDEN. 

BY    GEORGE   GRAY. 

LTHOUGH  the  kitchen  garden  presents  fewer  attractions 
at  this  season  of  the  year  than  at  any  other  period,  it 
must  on  no  account  be  neglected,  and  those  who  pay 
much  attention  to  the  cultivation  of  vegetables  have  an 
abundance  of  work  to  occupy  their  heads  and  hands 
during  the  next  two  months. 

In  the  first  place,  it  is  necessary  to  determine  at  once  what  each 
quarter  is  to  be  cropped  with  next  season,  so  as  to  be  able  to  prepare 
the  ground  according  to  the  requirement  of  the  several  crops.  Also, 
to  prevent  confusion  in  the  spring,  when  the  sowing  and  planting  is 
going  on  ;  when  these  arrangements  are  left  until  the  spring,  it  is  no 
unusual  occurrence  to  find  at  the  last  moment  that  there  is  insuffi- 
cient or  no  room  for  some  of  the  important  crops.  In  gardens  of  a 
considerable  size,  the  vegetables  to  be  grown,  and  the  extent  of  the 
crop  of  each,  must  of  necessity  be  regulated  by  the  taste  of  the 
owner;  but  in  small  gardens,  such  as  are  allotted  to  the  majority  of 
suburban  villas,  it  is  necessary  to  act  with  caution,  and  only  grow 
the  most  profitable.     As  a  rule,  preference  should  be  given  to  vege- 

VOL.  VI. — NO.  XII.  24, 


370  TITE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND   GARDEN    GUIDE. 

tables  of  a  similar  character  to  cabbage  and  broccoli,  because  of  their 
being  so  much  better  when  cooked  soon  after  they  are  gathered. 
Such  things  as  potatoes  and  onions,  which  can  be  transported  long 
distances  without  undergoing    any    deterioration    whatever,  should 
only  be  grown  in  quantity  in  gardens  where  there  is  plenty  of  room 
for  everything.   In  fact,  only  the  early  potatoes,  which  can  be  cleared 
off  the  ground  early  enough  in  the  summer  for  it  to  be  planted  again 
with  broccoli,  or  winter  greens  of  some  kind,   should  be   planted. 
Peas  also  are  not  profitable,  and  the  finest  marrow  varieties  only 
should  be  grown  ;  for  peas  can  be  frequently  purchased  early  in  the 
season  for  less  than  the  cost  of  the  sticks.     The  better  class  of  peas, 
on  the  other  hand,  which  are  not  only  fine  in  quality,  but  very  pro- 
ductive, cannot  often  be  purchased,  and  must  therefore  be  grown  at 
home.      Onions  and  carrots  should  only  be   grown  in  limited  quan- 
tities for  use  during  the  summer  in  a  young  state  ;  and  turnips  and 
parsnips  should  not  be  grown  at  all,  as  the  ground  can  be   more  pro- 
fitably employed.     Cauliflowers  do  not,  perhaps,  yield   such  a  large 
supply  of  food  as  cabbages  and  other  greens,  but  they  well  repay  the 
cost  of  cultivating,  and  should  be  planted  liberally.     The  extent  to 
which  cabbage  is  grown  must  be  determined  by  the  esteem  in  which 
it  is  held,  and  in  any  case  they  should  be  planted  rather  close  to  each 
other,  and  cut  and  sent  to  table  before  they  are  full  grown.  Broccolis 
will  well  repay  the  cost  of  cultivation,  but  they  cannot  be  depended 
on,  for  such  winters  as  1870-71  cuts  them  up  in  a  wholesale  manner. 
Scarlet  runners  are  one  of  the  most  profitable  of  garden  crops,  for 
in  ordinary  good  soils  they  yield  a  very  large  supply  throughout  the 
season.     Two  sowings  should  be  made  of  these,  one  as  early  in  the 
season  as  the  state  of  the  weather  will  permit,  and  the  other  early  in 
June,  to  keep  up  the  supply  after  the  crop  has  become  exhausted. 
Dwarf  French  beans  are  hardly  so  profitable  as  the  scarlet  runners, 
but  they  take  up  very  little  room,  require  no  sticks,  and  they  can  be 
highly  recommended.    Lettuce  aud  other  salading  should,  as  a  matter 
of  course,  be  grown  in  proportion  to  the  space  at  disposal. 

Iu  determining  the  manner  in  which  each  quarter  is  to  be  cropped 
next  year,  so  as  to  keep  it  at  work  without  intermission,  it  must  not 
be  forgotten  that,  as  far  as  possible,  no  quarter  should  be  occupied 
two  consecutive  years  with  the  same  kind  of  crop.  A  proper  system 
of  rotation  is  one  of  the  grand  secrets  in  kitchen  gardening,  but  as 
there  is  not  sufficient  room  in  small  gardens  for  carrying  on  a  system- 
atic rotation  of  cropping,  it  is  not  of  much  use  to  enlarge  upon 
this  part  of  the  question.  It  will  also  be  well  to  bear  in  mind 
that  some  things  do  better  in  ground  manured  the  previous  year 
than  they  do  in  that  which  has  received  a  liberal  dressing  of  fer- 
tilizing matter  a  short  time  previously. 

Peas,  potatoes,  and  all  the  members  of  the  great  Brassica  family, 
on  the  other  band,  require  an  abundance  of  manure,  and  there  is  no 
fear  of  the  ground  being  too  rich  for  them. 

One  of  the  most  important  points  in  kitchen  garden  practice  is 
to  stir  the  soil  to  a  considerable  depth,  early  enough  in  the  winter 
to  admit  of  its  thorough  pulverization  by  the  frost  and  rain.  To  say 
that  trenching  the  ground  early  in  the  winter,  and  leaving  the  sur- 


THE   FLORAL    WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE.  371 

face  until  the  following  spring  in  the  roughest  state  possible,  is  equal 
to  a  dressing  of  manure  would  be  overstating  the  case,  but  it  may 
be  said  that  the  produce  of  the  garden  may  be  materially  augmented 
by  trenching  a  part  every  season.  It  is  not  necessary  to  trench  the 
ground  every  year,  even  were  it  practicable  to  do  so,  but  it  should 
be  turned  over  every  second  or  third  year,  and  to  make  the 
work  as  little  felt  as  possible,  a  portion  should  be  done  every 
season.  Supposing  the  work  of  trenching  the  ground  is  spread 
over  three  years,  divide  the  garden  into  three  imaginary  divi- 
sions, and  trench  No.  1  this  winter,  No.  2  in  the  winter  of  72,  and 
No.  3  in  the  winter  of  73,  and  in  the  following  winter  commence 
with  No.  ] ,  and  proceed  as  before.  It  is  not  desirable  to  bring 
subsoils  utterly  unfit  for  the  growth  of  plants,  such  as  tenacious 
clay  or  gravel,  to  the  surface,  and  the  depth  to  which  the  ground 
must  be  turned  up  must  be  regulated  by  the  depth  of  good  soil.  In 
trenching  shallow  soils  it  is  a  very  good  plan  to  trench  the  soil  to  a 
depth  of  fifteen  or  twenty  inches,  and  then  simply  break  up  the 
subsoil  with  a  fork  without  bringing  it  to  the  surface.  Jn  dressing 
the  quarters  with  manure  at  this,  or  any  other  season  of  the  year, 
the  manure  should  be  regularly  mixed  with  the  soil  throughout  its 
entire  depth,  and  not  thrown  into  the  bottom  of  the  trench  as  is  so 
frequently  done. 

All  vacant  quarters  should,  as  a  matter  of  course,  be  turned  up 
at  once,  and  those  only  partly  occupied  examined,  and  the  remaining 
crops,  if  practicable,  taken  up  and  planted  in  one  corner,  and  the 
vacant  space  dug  or  otherwise  prepared  for  the  next  crop.  Turnips 
of  sufficient  size  for  table  may  be  taken  up  and  put  in  clumps,  in  the 
same  mauner  as  potatoes.  They  will  then  be  safe  from  frost  and 
leave  the  ground  at  liberty,  without  suffering  any  deterioration  in 
quality  whatever.  The  potato  clamps  should  &.lso  be  examined 
to  see  whether  the  potatoes  are  sufficiently  protected  in  case  of 
severe  frost.  Last  winter  a  very  considerable  quantity  was  rendered 
unfit  for  use  through  being  exposed  to  the  effects  of  frost.  The  soil 
should  not  be  less  than  fifteen  inches  in  thickness,  but  an  additional 
three  or  six  inches  will  be  preferable.  The  stores  of  roots  should 
shortly  undergo  a  thorough  examination,  and  any  roots  that  are 
decayed  in  any  way  removed  from  those  which  are  perfectly  sound. 


THE  GARDEN  GUIDE  FOE  DECEMBER. 

Eloweii  Gakden. — All  ground  work  should  be  pushed  on  as 
fast  as  circumstances  will  permit,  to  enable  it  to  get  thoroughly 
settled  before  spring.  This  is  a  very  good  time  to  form  fresh  lawns, 
and  lay  down  turf.  Work  of  this  kind  is  frequently  left  until  spring, 
and  generally  entails  an  immeuse  amount  of  labour  in  watering,  to 
keep  the  grass  alive  ;  whereas,  if  laid  down  at  this  season  of  the 
year,  it  would  be  thoroughly  established  before  the  weather  is  hot 
enough  to  affect  it.  Deciduous  trees  and  shrubs  may  be  planted 
during  the  early  part  of  the  month  with  reasonable  chance  of  success, 
but  unless  the  planting  can   be  finished  quickly,  it  will  be  well  to 


372  THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 

leave  it  until  the  spring.  All  unoccupied  beds  and  borders  should  be 
dug  up,  and  the  surface  left  rough  to  enable  the  weather  to  act  upon 
it.  Now  that  the  trees  have  all  shed  their  leaves,  clear  the  shrubbery 
borders,  to  prevent  their  being  blown  about  with  every  gust  of 
wind,  and  littering  the  walks  and  grass-plots.  Protect  tea  and  other 
tender  roses  with  dry  litter  or  fern ;  but  where  they  are  growing  in 
a  prominent  position,  this  system  of  protection  will  be  objectionable, 
and,  instead  of  adopting  it,  take  the  plants  up  carefully,  and  lay 
them  in  by  their  heels  in  a  sheltered  corner,  and  cover  with  litter  or 
fern.  These  can  be  planted  again  early  in  March,  and  will,  if  handled 
carefully,  scarcely  feel  the  shift. 

Kitchen  Garden. — Draw  a  little  earth  to  the  Beans  and  Peas 
now  peeping  through  the  ground,  and  keep  a  sharp  look-out  for 
mice,  which  are  very  busy  just  now,  and  trap  them  directly  they 
make  an  appearance.  In  very  sharp  weather,  cover  Celery  with 
long  litter,  for  it  soon  rots  in  the  centre  after  it  has  been  frozen. 
Take  up  a  supply  of  Jerusalem  Artichokes  and  Parsnips  for  imme- 
diate use,  and  place  in  the  root-house,  and  cover  with  dry  sand  or 
Boil ;  but  the  principal  bulk  should  remain  in  the  ground  for  the 
present,  as  they  are  firmer,  and  eat  more  mellow  than  when  taken 
up  at  the  beginning  of  the  winter,  and  stored  in  the  root-house. 
Frosty  mornings  must  be  taken  advantage  of  for  getting  manure  on 
vacant  quarters ;  and  when  the  weather  is  unfavourable  for  out-door 
work,  overhaul  the  root-stores,  and  remove  all  that  exhibit  the  least 
signs  of  decay  from  contact  with  that  which  is  sound. 

Greenhouse. — Many  amateurs  lose  large  numbers  of  plants, 
simply  because  they  crowd  the  house  as  full  as  it  will  hold,  and  then 
water  in  the  same  careless  manner  as  in  summer,  and  fancy,  because 
the  weather  happens  to  be  cold,  that  the  ventilators  must  be  kept 
close.  To  keep  the  usual  stock  of  greenhouse  plants  in  health 
during  the  winter,  maintain  a  comparatively  dry  atmosphere,  which 
must  be  regularly  changed  by  opening  the  ventilators  on  all  favour- 
able opportunities ;  and  if  there  is  any  danger  of  the  temperature 
falling  too  low,  apply  a  little  fire-heat  during  the  time  the  venti- 
lators are  open.  To  economize  fuel  as  well  as  for  the  sake  of  the 
health  of  the  plants,  cover  the  glass  with  thick  canvas,  mats,  or 
frigidomo,  during  very  sharp  frosts,  to  prevent  the  escape  of  the 
heat.  Watei^early  and  choose  a  clear,  bright  day  for  that  purpose. 
It  will  be  better  to  let  the  plants  be  dry  for  a  day  or  two  than  water 
them  in  damp  weather.  At  the  same  time,  the  soil  in  which  heaths 
and  other  plants  of  like  character  are  potted  must  not  be  allowed  to 
get  dust  dry.  Cyclamens,  and  single  and  double  Primulas,  now 
coming  into  flower,  must  have  the  warmest  corner  the  house  affords. 
Look  sharp  after  green-fly,  and  fumigate  immediately  it  makes  its 
appearance.  Remove  every  decayed  leaf,  and  keep  everything  as 
clean  and  sweet  as  circumstances  will  permit. 

Fruit  Garden. — Pruning  of  all  fruit-trees,  excepting  the  Peach 
and  Nectarine,  must  be  commenced  in  earnest.  Lay  in  no  more 
wood  than  is  really  required,  for  nothing  is  gained  by  over-crowding, 
but  much  lost.  Give  Apple-trees  infested  with  American  blight  a 
thorough  washing  with    strong  brine,  but   avoid   damaging  either 


THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND   GARDEN   GUIDE.  373 

fruit-buds  or  wood-buds.  See  tbat  trees  planted  last  month  are 
properly  staked,  and  cover  the  soil  immediately  over  the  roots  with 
six  inches  of  half-rotten  stable  manure,  to  prevent  the  frost  loosen- 
ing it. 

Stoye. — The  temperature  advised  for  last  month  will  be  suitable 
for  this.  Nothing  must  be  done  to  excite  any  of  the  occupants 
unnecessarily,  just  now,  or  the  summer  growth  will  be  poor  and 
weak  in  consequence.  Attend  carefully  to  Perns,  especially  the 
delicate  kinds,  like  the  Gymnogrammas,  Nothochlsenas,  and  Cheil- 
anthes,  the  fronds  of  which  soon  decay,  if  wetted  frequently,  or 
exposed  to  a  damp  atmosphere.  All  kinds  should  be  kept  as  quiet 
as  possible.  Sometimes  the  close-growing  Selaginellas  will  rot  at 
this  season,  and  the  best  way  to  stop  its  progress  is  to  clear  away 
the  decayed  portion,  and  then  sprinkle  the  plants  with  dry  sand,  and 
place  them  in  a  dry  position  near  the  glass  for  a  short  time.  The 
necessary  precautions  must,  however,  be  taken  to  prevent  the  tender 
growth  flagging. 

Forcing. — See  directions  for  Inst  month.  Rhubarb,  Seakale, 
and  Asparagus  may  now  be  lifted,  and  introduced  into  heat ;  the 
first  must  be  taken  up  without  the  roots  being  broken  about,  and 
with  as  much  soil  adhering  to  them  as  possible.  The  roots  can  be 
placed  in  any  out-of-the-way  corner  of  the  stove  or  forcing-house. 
Seakale  must  be  forced  in  the  dark,  but  Asparagus  should  be  forced 
in  a  frame,  close  to  the  glass,  and  receive  abundance  of  air  to  develop 
the  flavour.  Sow  French  Beans  in  small  pots,  and  shift  into  larger 
ones  as  soon  as  they  are  well  rooted.  Place  near  the  glass  to  keep 
them  dwarf  and  stocky. 

Pits  and  Frames. — Violets  must  be  protected  in  cold  and  frosty 
weather,  but  draw  the  lights  off  entirely  whenever  the  weather  will 
admit  of  its  being  done  with  advantage.  Auriculas,  Carnations, 
Pansies,  Pinks,  and  Picotees,  must  have  a  free  circulation  of  air 
about  them  at  all  times,  excepting  when  the  weather  is  very  damp 
or  frosty.  A  few  degrees  of  frost  will  not  do  so  much  injury  as  a 
stagnant  atmosphere.  The  early-potted  Hyacinths  and  other  Dutch 
bulbs  must  be  uncovered  at  once,  and  exposed  to  the  light.  Remove 
successive  batches  to  the  forcing-pit,  the  temperature  of  which 
should  now  average  60°.  Syringe  flowering  shrubs  overhead  slightly 
once  a  day,  to  enable  the  buds  to  push  strong. 


HORTICULTURAL  NOTES. 


N  all  sides  the  Chrysanthemum  season  of  1871  is  justly 
pronounced  to  have  been  considerably  below  the  average 
of  previous  years.  This  in  a  measure  was  owing  to  the 
cold  and  uncongenial  weather  experienced  during  the 
early  part  of  the  summer,  which  prevented  the  plants 
making  much  progress  until  the  summer  was  too  far  advanced  to 
admit  of  a  thorough  maturation  of  the  wood.  None  of  the  exhi- 
bitions have  been  quite  up  to  the  mark,  but  at  the  majority  a  few 
fair  specimens  and  some  grand  blooms  were  staged.     The  best  cut 


374  THE   FLORAL   WORLD   AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 

blooms  were  those  shown  at  Stoke  Newington  by  Mr.  James,  Mr. 
Rowe,  and  others.  The  best  specimen  plants  of  both  large  flowering 
and  pompone  varieties  were  staged  at  the  exhibition  of  the  South 
Essex  Society,  held  at  Stratford.  The  exhibitions  of  this  society 
have  long  been  celebrated  for  the  magnificence  of  the  specimens  of 
the  large-flowering  varieties,  but  this  year  it  also  excelled  in  the 
specimen  pompones,  and  the  specimens  exhibited  by  Mr.  Dcuglas, 
gardener  to  F.  Whitbourn,  Esq  ,  Loxford  Hall,  have  not  been  sur- 
passed for  many  years  past.  The  plants  were  not  only  large  and 
well  flowered,  but  the  blooms  were  extra  fine  and  remarkably  fresh. 
Usually  the  finest  specimens  of  the  latter  class  are  met  with  at  the 
exhibitions  of  the  Brixton  Hill  Society,  but  this  year  they  were 
smaller  than  usual.  The  exhibition  at  Brixton  Hill,  on  the  whole, 
was,  however,  very  good,  and  the  specimens  presented  in  the  class 
for  six  large-flowered  varieties  by  Mr.  Weston,  gardener  to  D.  Mar- 
tineau,  Esq.,  Clapham  Park,  were  the  best  plants  of  a  medium  size 
exhibited  during  the  present  season.  Ornamental-leaved  plants, 
Chinese  Primulas,  Ferns,  and  other  plants,  as  well  as  fruit  were 
shown,  and  the  result  was  a  most  interesting  and  attractive  exhibition. 
The  Liverpool  Chrysanthemum  and  Fruit  Show  was,  with  respect  to 
the  Chrysanthemums,  decidedjy  below  the  average,  but  the  grand 
display  of  fruit  and  miscellaneous  plants  was  more  than  sufficient  to 
satisfy  the  visitors,  and  make  it  a  great  success.  One  of  the  most 
important  features  of  the  show  was  the  collections  of  Poinsettias 
exhibited  by  Mr.  Biggs  and  others,  and  it  may  be  said  that  this 
brilliant  subject  was  never  exhibited  in  better  condition.  The 
Woolwich  Society  consists  almost  exclusively  of  amateur  growers, 
yet  it  has  had  a  very  fine  exhibition,  considering  that  Chrysan- 
themums only  were  exhibited.  The  speciality  of  the  show  was  the 
standard  specimens,  the  specimens  of  the  large-flowering  varieties 
being  the  finest  ever  exhibited.  Mr.  Adam  Forsyth,  of  the  Bruns- 
wick Nursery,  Stoke  Newington,  who  is  now  the  only  trade  repre- 
sentative of  this  noble  autumnal  flower,  has  had,  according  to 
annual  custom,  a  very  fine  display  in  the  large  show-house  adjoining 
the  road.  The  plants  are  grown  without  any  stopping  or  training 
whatever,  excepting  the  support  afforded  to  the  main  stem  by  a  single 
stake.  Only  one  flower  is  allowed  to  each  shoot,  all  but  the  ter- 
minal bud  being  removed  as  soon  as  they  were  advanced  sufficiently 
to  admit  of  its  being  done  without  injuring  the  one  to  be  left.  The 
results  are  plants  bearing  flowers  of  the  finest  possible  quality,  and 
of  a  form  most  convenient  for  the  decoration  of  the  conservatory. 
What  is  done  by  Mr.  Forsyth  may  be  done  in  a  private  establish- 
ment, provided  the  time  can  be  spared  during  the  summer  for 
attending  to  the  plants.  The  specimens  of  which  the  exhibition  consists 
in  Mr.  Forsyth's  nursery  are  grouped  on  the  floor  in  the  centre  of 
the  house,  and  on  the  side  stages,  and  the  immense  number  of  blooms 
present  a  most  brilliant  effect.  Owing  to  the  lateness  of  the  season, 
the  majority  of  the  plants  will  remain  in  good  condition  for  a  short 
time  after  the  appearance  of  these  notes,  and  as  the  exhibition  is 
open  to  the  public,  those  who  are  interested  in  the  matter  will  do 
well  to  pay  it  a  visit  without  any  undue  loss  of  time. 


TIIE    FLORAL    WORLD    AND    GARDEN    GUIDE.  375 

Instead  of  giving  the  names  of  the  varieties  in  the  winning  stands 
of  cut  blooms  at  the  various  exhibitions,  I  will  enumerate  a  few  of 
the  most  striking  met  with  in  a  critical  examination  of  Mr.  Forsyth's 
unrivalled  collection  a  few  days  since.  In  making  the  selection, 
preference  was  given  to  such  varieties  as  succeed  well  with  ordinary 
management,  and  are  best  adapted  for  the  embellishment  of  the  con- 
servatory. 

Amongst  the  large-flowered  varieties  Duchess  of  Roxburgh,  a  fine 
flower  of  large  size  and  fine  finish  ;  Mr.  W.  H.  Morgan,  a  variety  in 
the  way  of  Jardin  des  Piantes ;  Miss  Mart/  Morgan,  clear  delicate 
pink  and  fine  form  ;  Mr.  George  JLaskin,  warm  peach,  a  bold  hand- 
some flower  ;  Plenipo,  rosy  purple,  large  and  good  ;  Botundifolia, 
pearly  white,  changing  to  blush  as  the  flowers  acquire  age ;  Alfred 
Salter,  delicate  pink,  pleasing  and  effective  ;  Antonelli,  bronzy  orange  ; 
Aurea  multiflora,  pure  yellow  ;  Bella  Donna,  lilac,  large,  and  showy; 
Beverley,  wliite ;  Golden  Beverley,  yellow,  both  first-rate;  Bronze 
Jardin  des  Piantes,  deep  reddish- bronze  hue  ;  Dr.  Sharps,  a  very 
distinct  and  beautiful  variety,  with  reflexed  flowers  of  a  deep  crimson 
hue  ;  Empress  Eugenie,  delicate  rosy  lilac ;  General  Slade,  bronzy 
red  tipped  with  orange  :  General  Bainbrigge,  buff  shading  to  amber  ; 
General  Hardinge,  deep  reddish  purple  ;  Gloria  Mundi,  golden  yellow, 
very  fine  :  Golden  Trilby,  clear  yellow;  Guernsey  Nugget,  primrose- 
yellow  ;  Isabella  Bott,  delicate  white  tinted  rose-lilac  ;  Jardin  des 
Piantes,  orange-yellow,  fine  and  constant ;  Lady  Hardinge,  delicate 
rose ;  Le  Grand,  rosy  peach,  a  pleasing  shade  of  colour ;  Mr.  Brun- 
lees,  deep  red  tipped  with  orange-yellow,  bold  and  constant ;  Mr. 
Cullenford,  deep  purple,  a  fine  variety,  not  grown  so  extensively  as  it 
should  be ;  Mr.  Gladstone,  reddish  chesnut,  valuable,  although  there 
are  several  others  of  a  similar  hue ;  Mrs.  George  Bundle,  pure  white, 
flowers  of  medium  size,  but  of  the  finest  possible  form  ;  Prince  of 
Wales,  deep  purple  ;  Prince  Alfred,  rosy  crimson  ;  Princess  Beatrice, 
delicate  rosy  pink  ;  Princess  of  Tech,  pure  white  ;  Princess  of  Wales, 
white,  tinted  with  delicate  rose  ;  Queen  of  England,  blush-white  ; 
Bev.  J.  Dix,  orange-red;  Six  G.  Bowyer,  a  distinct  shade  of  purple ; 
Venus,  pink-shaded  lilac  ;  Virgin  Queen,  white,  and  White  Globe, 
white. 

The  Japanese  varieties  are  now  steadily  gaining  ground  in  public 
favour,  as  they  well  deserve,  for  they  are  all  of  the  highest  value  for 
conservatory  decoration  ;  for  with  a  good  selection  a  plentiful  supply 
of  Chrysanthemums  may  be  had  from  the  beginning  of  November 
until  the  end  of  December. 

The  dwarf  pompone  varieties  are  most  valuable  for  conservatory 
decoration.  They  are  neat  in  growth,  and  very  easily  managed.  The 
following  selection  represents  ;  11  the  different  shades  of  colour,  and 
includes  none  but  which  are  distinct  and  effective: — Andromeda 
Bob,  Gedo  Nulli,  General  Ganrobert,  James  Forsyth,  Golden  Cedo 
Nulli,  White  Trevenna,  Salamon,  Mrs.  Dix,  Lixzie  Holmes,  Bose 
Trevenna,  Adonis,  Lilac  Cedo  Nulli,  Atala,  Brown  Cedo  Nulli,  Sainte 
Thais,  Surprise,  Calliope,  Mrs.  Rutt,  Aurora  Borealis,  St.  Michael, 
Duruflet,  Brilliant,  Madame  Marthe.  Q-t  q. 


376  THE   FLOKAL   WORLD    AND    GARDEN   GUIDE. 

TO   CORRESPONDENTS. 

Edging  Plant?. — A.  G.  B. — The  following  are  the  most  desirable  of  the 
plants  suitable  for  forming  divisional  or  marginal  lines  in  the  flower-garden  during 
the  summer  mouths: — Achillea  umbellata,  grey,  dwarf,  and  bushy,  marginal  or 
divisional  lines.  Achyrocline  Saundersoni,  silvery,  dwarf,  and  dense  marginal 
lines.  Arabis  alpina  variegata,  pale  yellow  variegation,  dwarf  and  compact,  mar- 
ginal lines  ;  A.  lucida  variegata,  yellow  variegation,  dwarf  and  slow-growing,  edgings 
to  very  small  beds  only.  Centaurea  argentea  plumosa,  silvery,  neat,  marginal  or 
divisional  lines ;  C.  gymnocarpa,  grey  foliage,  tall  centres  or  edgings  to  large 
beds  ;  C.  ragusina,  white  foliage,  centres  and  second  or  third  rows  ;  C.  ragusina 
compacta,  dwarfer  than  the  preceding,  and  the  best  for  marginal  lines.  Cerastium 
Biebersteini,  silvery,  dwarf  and  spreading,  edgings  ;  C.  tonientosum,  dwarfer  than 
the  preceding,  and  the  most  useful  for  edgings.  Chrysanthemum  Sensation,  yellow 
variegation,  second  rows  or  marginal  lines.  Cineraria  acanthifoh 'a,  white,  upright, 
but  compact  in  growth,  edgings  or  divisional  lines  ;  C.  asplenifolia,  silvery  grey, 
compact,  useful  for  first,  second,  or  third  rows  ;  C.  maritima,  grey,  robust,  best 
adapted  for  back  rows  and  centres  of  beds.  Coprosma  Baueriana  variegata,  creamy 
variegation,  very  effective  edgings.  Dactylis  elegantissima,  white,  tall  and  strag- 
gling, edgings  for  large  beds  only.  Fcheveria  glauca  metallica,  glaucous  green, 
best  adapted  for  forming  edgings  to  large  beds;  F.  metallica,  reddish  brown, 
centres  or  edgings  to  large  beds ;  F.  secunda,  green,  red  margins,  edgings  for 
large  or  small  beds ;  F.  secunda  glauca,  glaucous  white,  invaluable  for  edging  pur- 
poses. Fuonymusjlavescens,  chrome  yellow  foliage,  rich  and  effective,  first,  second, 
or  third  rows  ;  F.  japonicus  aureo  variegatus,  yellow  variegation,  first  or  second 
rows  ;  F.  radicans  variegatus,  white  variegation,  very  dwarf  edgings.  Fuchsia 
Golden  Fleece,  yellow  leafage,  dwarf  and  compact  marginal  lines  ;  F.  Golden 
Treasure,  similar,  but  stronger  in  growth  than  the  preceding.  Gnaphalium  tomen- 
tosum, white,  neat  and  compact,  suitable  for  first  or  second  rows.  Lonicera  aurea 
variegata,  yellow  variegation,  edgings  to  large  beds.  Mesembryanthemum  cordi- 
folium  variegatum,  pale  yellow,  dwarf,  spreading  ;  invaluable.  Polemonium  cceru- 
leum  variegatum,  creamy  white  variegation,  edgings  to  large  beds.  Pyrethryi 
Golden  Feather,  greenish  yellow,  compact,  useful  for  all  purposes.  Salvia  offi- 
cinalis aurea  variegated  sage,  dwarf,  compact,  and  effective.  Santolina  incana, 
silvery  dwarf,  and  close  growing,  marginal  lines.  Sempervivum  Californicum,  deep 
green,  red  tips,  marginal  or  divisional  lines ;  S.  montanum,  green,  small,  suitable 
for  edging  small  beds  only.  Senicio  argentea,  white,  dwarf,  and  compact,  valuable 
for  small  beds ;  S.  incana,  similar  to  the  preceding,  forms  neat  edgings.  Stachys 
lanata,  greyish,  suitable  for  edgings,  long  borders.  Teucrium  polium,  greyish 
green  neat  and  useful  for  edgings.  Veronica  Andersoni  variegata,  creamy  white 
variegation,  compact,  marginal  lines.  Veronica  Candida  {incana),  greyish  dwarf, 
marginal  or  divisional  lines  ;  Vinca  elegantissima,  yellow  variegation,  suitable  for 
edgings  to  large  beds  only;  V.  minor,  fol.  var.,  dwarfer  thau  the  preceding,  and 
very  effective.  . 

Management  of  Golden  Balm. — S.— This  beautiful  plant  is  at  its  best  during 
April  and  May.  In  the  course  of  June  it  becomes  dull  in  colour  and  too  strong  in 
growth,  and  is  sometimes  eaten  up  by  red  spider.  A  pretty  sure  way  of  making  a 
second  display  is  to  cut  it  down  close  about  the  15th  <5f  June,  and  give  it  a  heavy 
soaking  of  water  a  week  afterwards. 

j?_  21.— The  flowering  of  the  plant  referred  to  at  such  an  early  date  is  rather 
unusual.     There  are  good  and  bad  varieties,  as  in  every  other  class  of  plants. 

Building  Vineby  and  Greenhouse. — J.  R.  Crewe. — An  angle  of  30°  from  the 
base  of  the  rafter  will  be  quite  sufficient  slope  for  the  roof  of  the  vinery.  A  semi- 
epan  would  matorially  diminish  the  height  of  the  back  wall,  and  the  vinery  would 
match  better  with  the  greenhouse.  The  short  lights  should  be  about  three  feet,  and 
the  vines  can  be  trained  down  them. 

In  houses  of  the  dimensions  mentioned  it  will  be  difficult  to  set  apart  any  part 
for  propagating  purposes  ;  numbers  of  cuttings  may  however  be  struck  in  the  spring 
in  the  virjtry  with  the  aid  of  hand-glasses.  We  have  had  no  experience  with  the 
bouses  mentioned.     You  must  not  have  a  very  high  front  wall. 


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