n
FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
AND THEIR WORK
FRONTISPIECE.
[Photo by Euwix THOMPSON".
The Native Land — and Sea — of Edward Forbes.
FOUNDERS OF^^^
OCEANOGRAPHY
AND THEIR WORK
AN INTRODUCTION TO THE
SCIENCE OF THE SEA
BY
SIR WILLIAM A. HERDMAN
C.B.E., F.R.S., D.Sc, LL.D., etc.
EMERITUS PROFESSOR OF NATURAL HISTORY AND SOMETIME FIRST
PROFESSOR OF OCEANOGRAPHY IN THE UNIVERSITY OF LIVERPOOL
WITH MANY ILLUSTRATIONS
LONDON
EDWARD ARNOLD & CO.
1923
[All rights reserved]
Made and Printed in Great Britain by
Butler & Tanner Ltd., Frame and London
PREFACE
This is not a textbook of Oceanography. The compre-
hensive textbook, drawing contributions from various
branches of science — ranging from astronomy to biology —
has still to be written, and possibly the time to write such
an encyclopsedic work on the sea has not yet come. But
it is not too soon to let the young university student, and
the intelligent public in general, know that the oceans
present wonderful phenomena and profoundly interesting
problems to the observer and the investigator, and that a
science of the sea having its roots in the remote past has
of recent years developed greatly and is now growing fast
into an organized body of interrelated knowledge.
I have myself lived through the period that has seen
the development of the Natural History of the Sea into the
Science of Oceanography, and have known intimately
most of the men who did the pioneer work. There can be
but few others now living who have worked, as I did, along
with Wyville Thomson and John Murray in Edinburgh
more than forty years ago, and that is my justification
for the introduction in the earlier chapters of some personal
impressions of these and other nineteenth-century oceano-
graphers. And even in regard to that earlier pioneer
Edward Forbes, although I could not have known him
personally as he died several years before I was born, still
in my boyhood and early youth in Edinburgh some of his
old friends, realizing my keen interest in the subject, talked
to me of their lost hero, his ways and his work. So that
I almost came to believe that I also had known him and
vi PREFACE
heard him discourse in glowing words of starfish and
nudibranchs at the Isle of Man, of the graceful medusae
of the Clyde sea-lochs and of dredging with Goodsir and
MacAndrew in the Hebrides — and so felt that I too had
dwelt in Arcady.
The book is really based upon a course of about twenty
public lectures given in the winter of 1919-20 while I held,
for the first year, the newly established Chair of Oceano-
graphy in the University of Liverpool. The purpose of the
lectures was to put before my colleagues and students what
I regarded as the scope and nature of this new university
subject, and to interest the public of Liverpool in the deeper
knowledge of the seven seas that mean so much to that
great port, by giving examples of the phenomena and some
explanation of the methods of investigation of the problems
of the ocean.
The book follows the same lines. The first half-dozen
chapters are in the main biographical, dealing with the
lives and work of some of the leading men who have made
our science ; and those were selected in regard to whom
I had something to say at first hand. The remaining
chapters treat of subjects rather than men, and here again
I have had to be eclectic and have deliberately limited
myself, in the almost science-wide as well as world-wide
range of Oceanography, to those matters in which I was
myself most interested, and about which, as one had found
in lectures and conversation, the intelligent non-specialist
inquirer for information in regard to the sea wanted to know
more. The treatment of the matter, then, is not intended
to be exhaustive even in the subjects chosen. The aim
is rather to show that the field of inquiry is wide and varied,
that the phenomena observed — many of them familiar to
ocean voyagers — are all matters requiring scientific in-
vestigation and are frequently interdependent, so that the
explanation of one requires a knowledge of another, as in
the case of the migratory fish and the distribution of
PREFACE vii
plankton, or the American Tile-fish and the movements
of the GuK Stream ; and tether that Oceanography has
practical applications, such as those bearing on the sea-
fisheries and the possible cultivation of our barren shores,
all requiring further exploration, in the hope that man
in the future may become less of a hunter and more of a
farmer of the sea.
I desire to record my grateful thanks to various colleagues,
assistants and students, with whom I have worked at
Liverpool and Port Erin, for information and co-operation
and for the use of some of their photographs of natural
objects taken in the laboratory or at sea. I would mention
especially Professor R. Newstead, Mr. Andrew Scott, Mr.
Edwin Thompson, Dr. Francis Ward, Mr. E. Neaverson and
Mr. A. Fleming. I am indebted also to Professor Kofoid of
California, Dr. Jules Richard of Monaco, Mr. James Chumley
of the *' Challenger " office, the Editor of the Popular
Science Monthly and the Controller of H.M. Stationery
Office for their courtesy in lending me photographs or in
permitting me to reprint articles or illustrations.
Finally, I would add that this book is associated in my
mind with the memory of my wife — the constant companion
by land and sea, in work and play, of close on thirty years —
who helped me to establish the University Department of
Oceanography, who encouraged me to give the course of
lectures and frequently urged me to prepare them for
publication, and whose helpful criticism of the material in
its present form would have been invaluable.
W. A. HERDMAN.
Liverpool,
July, 1923.
CONTENTS
CHAP. PAGE
I Introductory : The Earliest Founders of
Oceanography ...... 1
II The Life and Work of Edward Forbes, the
Manx Naturalist (1815-1854) . . .12
III Sir C. Wyville Thomson and the " Challenger "
Expedition . ...... 37
IV Sir John Murray, the Pioneer of Modern
Oceanography ...... 69
V Louis and Alexander Agassiz and American
Explorations ...... 99
VI The Prince of Monaco and the Oceanographic
Museum . . . . . . .119
VII Marine Biological Stations for Research . .134
VIII Hydrography . . . . . . . 145
IX Ocean Currents : The Gulf Stream . . .170
X Submarine Deposits . . . . . .182
XI Coral Reefs and Islands . . . . .201
XII "Phosphorescence," or Luminescence in the Sea 212
XIII Plankton : Its Nature and Investigation . .231
XIV Plankton {continued) i Its Variations and its
Problems . . ,. . . . . 256
XV Applied Oceanography : Aquiculture — Oyster
Ain) Mussel Fisheries . . . . .279
XVI The Sea-Fisheries 293
XVII Food-Matters in the Sea . . . . .312
Appendix ; Memorandum on Proposed National
Expedition for the Exploration of the Sea . 33 1
Index ......... 337
iz
LIST OF PLATES
The Native Land — and Sea — of Edward Forbes Frontispiece
I'i'ATE To face page.
I Three Stages est the Oceanographic Knowledge
OF THE Ancients . . . .
II Professor Edward Forbes
III DiAZONA VIOL ACE A .....
IV Bust of Edward Forbes ; Forbes's Distribu
tional Map of the British Seas
V Sir Wyvelle Thomson ....
VI Sir John Murray .....
VII Professor Louis Agassiz
VIII Alexander Agassiz on U.S.S. " Albatross "
IX The Prince of Monaco and the Monaco Museum
OF Oceanography ....
X Dr. Anton Dohrn and the Zoological Station
AT Naples .....
XI Neritic Deposits .....
XII Globigerina Ooze .....
XIII Amphipoda ; Ctenophora
XIV NocTiLUCA ; Cerativm ; Copepoda .
XV FUNICULINA QUADRANGULARIS
XVI Pennatula peospeorea ; Meganyctjpeanes nor
VEGICA ......
XVII Set of Plankton Nets ; Mixed Plankton.
XVIII The Tile Fish : Lucas Sounding Machine
" Hensen " Quantitative Net .
xi
4
16
20
36
60
94
106
118
128
138
186
188
212
214
218
220
232
234
xii LIST OF PLATES
PLATE To face page
XIX Phyto-Plankton ; Zoo-Plankton . . . 236
XX ZoEA Stage of Cbab ; Sagitta bipunctata . 238
XXI Plankton-Net Silk, new and old ; Mixed
Plankton; Zoo-Plankton .... 254
XXII BiDDULPEiA ; Nauplius and Cypris Stages of
Balanus 256
XXIII Temoea longicornis 270
XXIV Large hauls of Calanus finmarceicus . . 272
XXV Oyster Culture at Arcachon . . . .282
XXVI Mussel Skear in Morecambe Bay ; Oyster
Culture in the Bay of Spezia . . 286
XXVII Transplanted Mussels in Morecambe Bay . 290
XXVIII Plaice Larva ; Plaice Hatching Boxes at Port
Erin Biological Station .... 300
FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
AND THEIR WORK
CHAPTER I
INTRODUCTORY— THE EARLIEST FOUNDERS OF
OCEANOGRAPHY
) Oceanography, the Science of the Sea, is a subject of
modern development though of ancient origin. It is only
of recent years that, for very good reasons, it has come to
be recognized as a distinct branch of science, an organized
body of knowledge. Including, as it does, the study of the
sea and its contents in all aspects— ^physical, chemical, and
biological — it was not until other sciences were sufficiently
advanced to admit of their methods and results being
applied to the phenomena of the sea that oceanography
became a strictly scientific study. Moreover, the develop-
ment of modern oceanography has been largely dependent
upon the use of steam, both for the purpose of taking up and
maintaining exact observing stations at sea, and also for
working the complicated apparatus that is necessary in scien-
tific investigation. To show the comprehensive nature of
this science of the sea, we need only recall its division into
Hydrography, Metabolism, Bionomics, and Tidology, in
which sections physics, chemistry, biology, and mathe-
matics are respectively involved.
But the foundations of oceanography can be traced back
to the earliest times, to the observations of naturalists and
the records of seamen from the voyages of the Phoenicians
onwards. Vasco da Gama, who first reached India by the
1 B
2 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
Cape of Good Hope, and Magellan, who first tried to sound
the Pacific, were early oceanographers ; so were Captain
James Cook and Sir J. Clark Ross, who first dredged the
Antarctic ; but long before their days the early Phoenician,
Carthaginian, and Greek explorers, starting with their home
sea, the Mediterranean, brought back the first records of the
nearer parts of the Indian Ocean and of the Atlantic outside
the Pillars of Hercules. The records of the early voyages of
the Phoenicians and the Carthaginians, all apparently under-
taken with commercial ends in view, have unfortunately
not been preserved ; ^ but we know that the Phoenicians
reached Britain, and there is reason to believe that the
Carthaginians discovered the Sargasso Sea off the west
coast of Africa, and that Hanno the Carthaginian, about
500 B.C., penetrated as far south as the Gambia. Herodotus
states that Necho II, King of Egypt about 600 B.C., sent
certain Phoenician sailors to go down the Red Sea and along
the east coast of Africa, and that in the third year they
came back by the Pillars of Hercules and reached Egypt by
the Mediterranean, reporting that as they sailed round
Africa, after a time they had the sun on their right hand — that
is, to the north — which Herodotus does not believe possible ;
but the observation as to the sun is very convincing. It is
doubtful whether the circumnavigation was ever repeated
until Vasco da Gama, two thousand years later, in the fifteenth
century, doubled the Cape of Good Hope from the west.
It is unnecessary to trace all the stages ^ in the accumula-
tion of this earliest knowledge of the sea : they may be
illustrated by three examples selected from the writings and
^ It is thought that Marinus of Tyre, the first really scientific
geographer, who lived towards the close of the first century a.d.,
in the time of Trajan and Hadrian, made use of the store of geographic
and hydrographic knowledge accumulated by the Phoenicians in
the construction of his improved maps ; and that Ptolemy of Pelusium
in turn founded his geographical work upon the maps of Marinus.
2 A very full account will be foimd in Sir John Miu-ray's *' Sum-
mary " in the " Challenger " Reports, which I have used freely.
INTRODUCTORY 3
maps of the ancients. First, the traditional voyages which
are crystaUized in the mythical adventm^es of Jason in the
Argo, and of the world as known to Homer (say, 1000 B.C.),
and may also be represented by the map ofHecatseus (about
500 B.C.), showing the great river-like " Oceanus " surround-
ing the known lands bordering the Mediterranean (see Plate I)
— a poetical misrepresentation, which was corrected by
Herodotus in the following century.
The second stage may be represented by the discoveries
of the astronomer Pytheas, a contemporary of Alexander
the Great, who sailed from Massilia, in the fourth century
B.C., through the Strait of Gibraltar, along the coasts of Spain
and France, penetrated to the North Sea and up the east
coast of the British Isles, and heard, if he did not actually
see it, of a land still farther north, six days' sail beyond
Britain, which he called Thule, and where, he reports, the
sea became thick and sluggish like a jelly-fish (possibly the
earliest record of a planktonic phenomenon, due either to
dense swarms of Medusae or to gelatinous masses of Diatoms).
He was the first scientific investigator of the Atlantic, and
penetrated where we have no record of others following
for about four centuries. Pytheas, moreover, made notable
contributions to oceanography in his determination of lati-
tudes and in ascribing the phenomena of tides to the action
of the moon. The state of knowledge after his explorations
may be illustrated by the map of Dicaearchus (about 300 B.C.
— a pupil of Aristotle), extending from Thule (possibly
Iceland) in the north-west to Taprobane (Ceylon) in the
south-east.
Two names, more celebrated in other spheres of knowledge
but belonging to this period, requu'e passing mention.
Plato's myth of the lost '' Atlantis," a mass of land in the
external sea beyond the Pillars of Hercules, which disap-
peared in a day and a night, rendering the Atlantic muddy
and unnavigable, has given rise throughout the ages to
many attempts to interpret this tradition by means of
4 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
geological phenomena, such as the possible transposition of
continents and ocean basins, culminating in the vain " search
for Atlantis with the microscope " in the modern investiga-
tion of oceanic deposits.
Aristotle, also about the time of Pytheas, took all know-
ledge for his province, and may be regarded as contributing
to oceanography mainly from the points of view of the
marine naturalist and the philosophic geographer. His
death, if there is any truth in the legend that he threw himself
into the whirlpool in despair at being unable to understand
the currents in the Strait of Euripus, is unworthy alike of
a philosopher and an oceanographer.
Although the Romans had extended their empire over
most of the known world, they made no noteworthy con-
tributions to scientific discovery. But in their time the Greek
geographer Strabo, in the first century B.C., wrote a compre-
hensive work on the physiography of land and sea ; and
Posidonius asserts that he measured the sea in the neighbour-
hood of Sardinia to a depth of 1,000 fathoms. It would
be interesting to know how he did it. There is no further
record of deep-sea sounding till we come to the time of
Magellan, fifteen centuries later.
I may just refer in passing to their contemporary, Pliny,
whose work (the Historia Naturalis) is little more than a
compilation, and not entirely free from errors. He records
in all 176 marine animals (four less than Aristotle recorded
from the ^Egean alone), and yet is so pleased with his cata-
logue that he writes : " By Hercules, in the sea and in the
ocean, vast as it is, there exists nothing that is unknown
to us, and, a truly marvellous fact, it is with those things
that nature has concealed in the deep that we are best
acquainted ! " I only wish that we moderns, after nearly
two thousand years of further investigation, were able to
say as much. The more we find out about the sea, the more
new problems open up before us for investigation.
The third stage in early knowledge may be represented
PLATE I.
1. As known in the time of Homer — 1000 B.C.
2. — As known in the time of Hecataeus — 500 B.C.
3. — As known in the time of Ptolemy — 150 a.d.
Thkee Stages in the Oceanographic Knowledge of the Ancients.
INTRODUCTORY 5
by the celebrated map usually attributed to the Alexandrian
astronomer and geographer, C. Ptolemy, in the second
century a.d., one of the notable features of which is that
it represents the Indian Ocean as an enclosed sea bounded
to the south by land extending from Africa to China — an
error which remained uncorrected till the time of Captain
James Cook, towards the end of the eighteenth century.
(Plate I.)
Ptolem}^, like others before him, believed that the furthest
known land to the east (Asia) came so near to the known
west coast of Europe that a ship might easily sail from
Spain to India, and there can be no doubt that this error
which Ptolemy's map did so much to perpetuate had great
weight in determining the voyages of Columbus and others
towards the end of the fifteenth century, and so led eventually
to the discovery of America. With Ptolemy we come to
the end of the scientific oceanographers of classical times.
Let us now pass over the dark ages and some succeeding
centuries during which the scientific investigation of nature
was at a standstill. With the exception of the explorations
of the Norsemen in the North Atlantic and of the Arabs in
the Indian Ocean, in mediaeval times, when it is said they
obtained the idea of the mariner's compass from China, little
advance was made till the glorious period at the end of the
fifteenth and the beginning of the sixteenth century, when the
Portuguese and Spaniards opened up enormous new areas of
ocean and demonstrated that the Earth is a sphere.
Prince Henry of Portugal, surnamed " The Navigator "
(grandson of " Old John of Gaunt"), founded in 1420 his
school of maritime research at Sagres, near Cape St. Vincent,
on the south-west corner of Portugal, where he trained the
men who led successive voyages of exploration in the Atlantic.
At the time of his death, in 1460, the west coast of Africa was
known down to about a third of the way to the Cape of Good
Hope. The Cape was finally rounded by Bartholomew Diaz
in 1486, but it was not till 1497 that Vasco da Gama com-
6 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
pleted the circuit of Africa and reached India by the Cape.
Columbus, seeking the treasures of the East, landed on the
Antilles in the New World in October, 1492, and believed he
had reached Asia, from which he was now farther off than
when he left Spain. He is said to have had with him on his
first voyage the map of the learned Florentine, Toscanelli ^
(1474), which shows Japan and other islands off the coast
of Cathay in the position really occupied by the North
American continent. A century later, the map of the world
according toOrtelius (1570) shows in contrast the enormous
changes in knowledge of land and sea effected by these
and other exploring voyages of the late fifteenth and early
sixteenth centuries.
Magellan, finally, sailed from Spain with five ships in
September, 1519, passed through the straits that bear
his name in November, 1520, crossed the Pacific, and,
although he and some of his companions were killed by the
natives of Zebu in the Philippines in April, 1521, the sur-
vivors of his expedition reached Spain in their one remaining
ship the following year (September 1522), having circum-
navigated the globe in three years — in which enterprise he
was followed by our English circumnavigator, Sir Francis
Drake, who rounded Cape Horn fifty- seven years later. In
his passage through the Pacific, Magellan attempted to
determine the depth, and failing to reach bottom with the
ship's sounding lines of a few hundred fathoms, concluded
that he had reached the deepest part of the ocean. As a
matter of fact, the depth at that spot is about 2,000 fathoms,
or nearly three English miles. This is supposed to be the
first attempt at sounding in the open sea, and no further
attempt is recorded for centuries after.
As Sir John Murray points out : " The memorable dis-
^ This is disputed by H. Vignaud {Toscanelli and Columbus,
London, 1902), who declares that the ToscaneUi map is a forgery,
and that Columbus really got his sailing directions from an obscure
pilot he met at Madeira about 1484.
INTRODUCTORY
coveries in the thirty years from 1492 to 1522 doubled at a
single bound all that was previously known of the surface
of the earth, and added a hemisphere to the chart of the
world. . . . Columbus, Gama, Magellan, America, the
route to India, the circumnavigation of the globe ; three
men and three facts opened gloriously a new era of history,
of geography, and especially of oceanography." (See the
group bracketed together in the middle of the following state-
ment of a few important ancient and modern approximate
dates) : —
Age of Homer (and voyage of the
Map of Hecataeus
Voyage of Pytheas .
JNIaj) of Dicsearchus .
Map of Ptolemy
/Bartholomew Diaz
Columbus
Vasco da Gama
(^Magellan
Jam.es Cook
James C. Ross .
" Challenger " Expedition
Argo " ?)
about 1000 B.C.
about 500 B.C.
fourth century B.C.
about 300 B.C.
150 A.D.
1486 A.D.
1492 A.D.
1497 A.D.
1521 A.D.
1772 A.D.
1840 A.D.
1872 A.D.
We now come upon a period of comparative inactivity,
from the early sixteenth to the late eighteenth century when
Captain James Cook (1728-1779), that truly scientific naviga-
tor, sent to the South Pacific on a Transit of Venus Expedition
in 1769, with Sir Joseph Banks as naturalist, subsequently
in 1772 circumnavigated the South Sea about latitude 60°,
and finally disproved the existence of a great southern
continent. He sailed round New Zealand, rediscovered
Australia and annexed it ta Great Britain, incidentally
making known to science that strange animal the kangaroo.
He discovered innumerable islands in the Pacific, such as
New Caledonia and the Sandwich group, where he was killed
by the natives in 1779.
Thus, in this brief story of the growth of knowledge of
the oceans, we have first the ancient explorers and writers up
to the time of Ptolemy (about 150 A. d.), then the great age
8
FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
of geographical discovery at the end of the fifteenth and
beginning of the sixteenth century, and finally the modern
expeditions beginning with Cook's voyages of 150 years ago
and extending up to the present time.
Taking the century that elapsed between Cook's last
voyage and the " Challenger " expedition of 1872, it is
interesting to notice the names of the great men of science
who went as naturalists on some of the more notable
expeditions, and who all contributed in their turn to our
knowledge of the sea and its contents.
Date.
Ship.
Captain.
Naturalist.
1768-71
"Endeavour"
Cook
Sir Joseph Banks
1831-6
" Beagle "
Fitzroy
Charles Darwin
1839-42
" Porpoise "
Wilkes
J. D. Dana
1839-43
" Erebus " &
" Terror "
James C. Ross
Joseph Hooker
1846-50
"Rattlesnake"
Stanley
T. H. Huxley
1860
" Bulldog "
McClintock
G. C. Wallieh
1868
" Lightning "
May
Wyville Thomson and
W. B. Carpenter
1869-70
" Porcupine "
Calver
Wy. Thomson, Carpenter,
and Gwyn Jeffreys
1872-76
"Challenger"
Nares
Wy. Thomson and others
Cook and his immediate successors bring us to about the
end of the eighteenth century, and we may conveniently
group the advances in knowledge of the science of the sea
during the nineteenth century in three periods — the period
of Edward Forbes, the great Manx naturaHst ; the period of
Wyville Thomson, ending with its climax, the " Challenger "
expedition; and the post-" Challenger " period of Sir John
Murray and modern oceanography, which brings us prac-
tically to the methods and knowledge of to-day.
The first of these three periods, the earlier half of the
nineteenth century, was the time of the field-naturalists
and collectors, and of the beginnings of marine biology and
INTRODUCTORY 9
scientific dredging in shallow water round the coasts. Forbes
was the type of a whole series of men who did notable pioneer
work in marine biology during the middle part of last century,
and produced authoritative books and monographs which
mark a great advance in knowledge of the natural history
of the British seas. Many of these men were amateurs of
science who had other professions ; but Forbes was not.
He was all his life a hard-working professional teacher of
the natural sciences, but he did much to inspire and encourage
these other workers of his day — especially in the use of the
dredge as an instrument of research.
The " dredge " of science is a modification of the fisher-
man's oyster- dredge, and the Italians Donati and Marsigli
used some such simple contrivance for bringing up material
from the sea-bottom in the Mediterranean before the middle
of the eighteenth century.
The use of the naturalist's dredge (introduced to science
by 0. F. Miiller, the Dane, in 1799) for exploring the sea-
bottom was brought into prominence almost simultaneously
in several countries of North-west Europe — by Henri Milne-
Edwards in France in 1830, by Michael Sars in Norway in
1835, and in our own country by Edward Forbes about 1832.
The last-named genial and many-sided genius was a man of
Scottish descent, who was born rather more than a hundred
years ago, and died in 1854, when not yet forty years of age.
He produced an extraordinary amount of first-rate work in
his short life, and inspired advances in oceanography which
he did not live to see carried out. As a result of observations
in the Eastern Mediterranean, he published a list of " zones "
of marine life, much of which is still accepted, though his
supposed " azoic " zone at 300 fathoms was shown by
Wyville Thomson and others to be a mistake. Forbes 's
theories on distribution and on the origin of the British
fauna and flora, even if in part erroneous, have had an
important position and influence in the history of science,
and have led up to the very researches which resulted in more
10 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
correct views. He was the most original, brilliant, and
inspiring naturalist of his day, with a broad outlook over
nature and a capacity for investigating border-line problems
involving several branches of science ; he was, in a word, a
pioneer of oceanography. His work will be dealt with in
some detail in the following chapter.
If Edward Forbes was the pioneer of shallow-water
dredging, Wyville Thomson played a similar part in regard
to the exploration of the depths of the ocean. His name
will go down through the ages as the leader of the famous
" Challenger " expedition, by far the most important scientific
deep-sea exploring expedition of all times. This and the
immediately preceding British expeditions in the " Light-
ning " and " Porcupine " demonstrated that there is no
azoic zone in the sea, but that numbers of animals are
found living down to the greatest depths of five or six miles
from the surface, and that some of these animals are related
to extinct forms, known as tertiary and cretaceous fossils.
These " Challenger " oceanographic results will be dealt with
more fully in a future chapter.
The work of Sir John Murray brings us to the third or post-
** Challenger " period in nineteenth- century oceanography.
Murray's work dicing the great expedition was chiefly on
three subjects of primary importance — plankton, coral reefs,
and submarine deposits, which have all been most fruitful
of results both in his own hands and those of others since.
After the return of the " Challenger," in 1876, Murray
took part in the two subsidiary expeditions of the " Knight-
Errant " and the " Triton " to explore the " warm " and the
" cold " areas of the Faroe Channel, which had been first
noticed by Wyville Thomson in the " Lightning " in 1868.
These cruises resulted in the discovery of the " Wyville-
Thomson Ridge," which separates the cold Arctic water
from the warmer Atlantic, and causes very different faunas
to exist in close proximity. Murray's oceanographic work
concluded with his joint exploration of the North Atlantic
INTRODUCTORY 11
with Dr. Johan Hjort in the " Michael Sars " during the
summer of 1910, with notable results, which are now in course
of pubUcation.
Several other national exploring expeditions followed
that of the " Challenger," and a few private or non-official
oceanographers have carried out very notable investigations
in their own vessels. Two of these stand out prominently
on account of the extent of their explorations, viz., (1)
Alexander Agassiz in America, who has, it is said, undertaken
more extensive cruises, chiefly for the purpose of examining
the details of coral reefs, than any other man ; and (2) the
late Prince of Monaco, the munificent founder of the Oceano-
graphic Institute at Paris and the Museum of Oceanography
at Monaco. The work of both these non-official oceano-
graphers will also be discussed in later chapters.
Each of these pioneers, and founders as they may be
considered, of oceanography presents to the historian of
science so much of interest and real importance in relation to
the rapid growth of our knowledge of the sea, and is so much
a prototype of the workers of his period, that I propose
to devote the next few chapters to short biographical
studies of the main events in the life and work of each of
the men I have mentioned from Edward Forbes onwards.
It is surely only right that the younger generations of oceano-
graphers who are making the advances of the present and
the future, should be informed what manner of men their
predecessors were, and how they Hved and did their work.
CHAPTER II
THE LIFE AND WORK OF EDWARD FORBES,
THE MANX NATURALIST (1815-1854)
During the year 1915 enthusiastic meetings were held at
Douglas, in the Isle of Man, and by Manx societies in London ^
and elsewhere, to celebrate the centenary of the birth of
Edward Forbes, the distinguished Manx naturalist, who was
a notable figure in British science during the second quarter
of the nineteenth century.
A century before, in 1815, the Napoleonic wars were just
ending. In the earlier part of the year when Edward Forbes
was born, Waterloo had not yet been fought. Napoleon was
still at large, and the state of public affairs was, in some
respects, not unlike what we were passing through a few years
ago. Europe was then also an armed camp, most of the
great nations were at war, and then, as again a hundred years
later, this country was fighting, along with allies, against the
greatest military power of the time— fighting for the cause
of humanity and freedom against the tyranny of a military
autocracy.
Before the time of the Crimean War and the Indian
Mutiny, Forbes was dead ; so his brief life was lived in a
time of peace, when notable advances were made in the Arts
and Sciences, and in their application to University educa-
tion, in all of which he played a prominent part.
1 For some of the statements in the following pages I am indebted
to speeches made on these occasions, and more especially to the
excellent Memoir of Edward Forbes, published in 1861, by Professors
George Wilson and Archibald Geikie.
12
EDWARD FORBES 13
Edward Forbes was born on the 12th of February, 1815,
at Douglas, where his father was a banker. Though settled
in the Isle of Man for several generations, the Forbes family-
was of Scottish descent, the great-grandfather, who was
involved in the Jacobite rising of 1745, having fled to the
island for refuge. The mother of Edward Forbes was Jane
Teare, heiress of the estates of Cor valla and Ballabeg at
Ballaugh, where her ancestors had lived for centuries, com-
bining, no doubt, in their blood both the Scandinavian and
the Celtic elements which are found in the Manx people. As
his paternal grandmother again was English, our naturalist,
though born and bred a Manxman, was of mixed blood, and
may have inherited qualities from all that is best in our
complex British nation.
As seems frequently to be the case with naturalists, it was
from his mother that Forbes derived his love of nature, and
more particularly his early taste for botany. It was certainly
inborn in him, as we hear that at the early age of seven he had
already collected and arranged a museum of natural objects,
and had appointed a younger sister as assistant curator.
He was a delicate boy, unable to go to school till the age of
twelve, and it was, no doubt, to encourage these self-taught
home studies that his father built an addition to their house
to contain the boy's museum, and it was there that in his
early youth Forbes started those collections which, in later
life, formed the basis of his celebrated books on British
Echinoderms and British Mollusca.
Home education in the case of a clever child probably
always favours precocity, introspection, and over-ambitious
attempts. Still, he must have been a remarkable boy to have
produced in his twelfth year a MS. work entitled A Manual
of British Natural History in all its Departments. He was,
we are told, a gentle and sweet-tempered child, and probably
his keenest interests were in the living things and wild nature
around him. He must have been very unlike most boys of
his age, and so was liable to be misunderstood and unappre-
14 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
ciated. It is recorded that his grandmother Teare, seeing
him grubbing for snails in a hedge, said (in Manx) : " Ta mee
credjal naugh vod slane Elian Vannin sauail yn guilley shoh
veicli cheet dy ve ommydan " (=1 believe the whole Isle of
Man cannot save this boy from being a fool).
He was at school for a few years at Douglas, where he is
described as never having his pencil out of his hand, and as
covering his books and exercises and the margins of his Latin
verses with sketches of animals and caricatures and fancy
pictures of all kinds. Then he left home for good at the age
of seventeen. His mother had hoped he would enter the
Church ; his father wished him to be a doctor. As a com-
promise he went to London to study Art ! Although
exceedingly clever with his pencil, as the illustrations in
many of his books abundantly testify, four months in London
convinced him that he could never be a professional artist,
and he then decided to fall in with his father's wishes and
study medicine in Edinburgh. It is of interest to note that
at that time (1831) it took three days to travel from London
to the Isle of Man, and another three from there to Edinburgh.
We hear most about two of the professors during his
earliest years at Edinburgh — Graham and Jameson. Graham
was Professor of Botany, and it is said to have been a matter
of dispute amongst his students whether it was seven or only
six diagrams that illustrated his course of lectures. The
microscope was unknown, and the only practical work
consisted in collecting flowers and pulling them ajDart with
the fingers. Jameson, who united Geology and Zoology, was
a celebrated man, a noted mineralogist, and the founder of
the Natural History part of the well-known museum at
Edinburgh.
It is evident that what Forbes appreciated most was the
collecting excursions into the country around Edinburgh,
and even farther afield to the Northern Highlands or to
the Western Islands, which some of the professors organized
from time to time. That was really the practical work in
EDWARD FORBES 15
natural science of those days. It is curious to recall now-a-
days, when we use the microscope so constantly, that the
study of histology and microscopic structure in general was
only introduced into medical studies, in 1841, by Professor
Hughes Bennett, who had been a fellow-student of Edward
Forbes. Forbes was, at Edinburgh, the centre of a group of
brilliant young men, some half-dozen of whom, after being
fellow- students, later on became fellow-professors in the same
university. Among these we may note John Goodsir, the
great anatomist ; Balfour, the professor of botany ; George
Wilson, the biographer of Forbes ; and Sir Robert Christison.
Goodsir was Forbes's first and probably his best friend.
We are told that when he first called at his lodging he found
the future malacologist boihng in his kettle a rare mollusc,
Clausilia nigricans, he had found on Arthur's Seat, in order
to get the animal from the shell— and Goodsir thereupon gave
him a first lesson in dissecting a mollusc. We get curious
glimpses of student life in Forbes's accounts —which are
characteristically added up incorrectly — such as, " Leg, £2 ;
Church, 6d. ; Insects, 2/-." The " Leg " was, of course, his
" part " in the dissecting room. We are told he was one of
the idlest students of medicine Edinbiu-gh ever saw — which
is surely a strong statement — and yet we may be sure he was
always fully employed in some interesting study, literary,
artistic, or scientific. The point is that he was not doing what
he was intended to do, and in that sense his time was wasted.
He began each lecture with serious notes, which very soon
degenerated into caricatures of the lecturer and fancy
sketches of nymphs and gnomes.
His friend, Hughes Bennett, who undertook to coach him
in anatomy, tells of the many dismal evenings of yawning
over the bones, and of how Forbes would arrange that jovial
friends should come in and interrupt, when the textbooks
and bones would be thrown aside and the rest of the evening
devoted to gaiety and philosophical discussions. After which
it need not surprise us that when summoned to appear for
16 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
examination on a certain afternoon, he at the appointed time
was non inventus.
Of course, these young men ran a journal, and, of course,
they formed a select students' club, the Brotherhood of the
Magi, the symbol of which was a silver triangle on which was
engraved OINOZ, EPQE, MA0HIII!-~wme, love, learning.
Their wine was not, I think, excessive ; the love was brotherly
love ; and the learning was certainly on a high level. They
were all clever, and most of them became celebrated men.
This " oineromathic " brotherhood they defined as " a Union
of the Searchers after Truth."
I have dwelt at some length on his student years in
Edinburgh, as they were clearly the most stimulating and
formative time of his life, definitely related to all he did later
on, and brightened by friendships which persisted to the end.
It was a lengthy student's career — nine years — foiu* years
of medical study, which he finally abandoned in 1836 to
devote all his energies to Science. But during this time he
spent considerable periods away from Edinburgh, travelling
for study and always adding to his natural history collec-
tions wherever he went.
Several summers between 1832 and 1839 he spent in
dredging the Irish Sea, and exploring the fauna and flora of
the Isle of Man, and we see the results later on in his first-
published book, Malacologia Monensis, and in certain papers
in the Annals and Magazine of Natural History.
Another summer (1833) he and a fellow-student explored
far from beaten tracks in Norway, going in a trading brig
from Ramsey to Arendal, and then shouldering their knap-
sacks and packs of scientific collecting apparatus, which, no
doubt, became heavier day by day as the collections grew.
He had, of course, the noticing eye and the acquisitive hand
of the true collector. On arriving at Bergen, his first action
was to note that a spitting-box or spitoon in the room he
entered was filled with a fine shell-sand, which he promptly
emptied into his handkerchief and took away with him for
PLATE II.
Professor Edward Forbes.
EDWARD FORBES 17
microscopic examination. Another year he spent some time
in Paris, and the following summer made an expedition to
Algeria. In 1839, he and Goodsir were dredging in the
Shetland seas, with results which Forbes made known to
the meeting of the British Association at Birmingham that
summer with such good effect that a " Dredging Committee "
of the Association was formed to continue the good work.
It was at this meeting of the Association that Forbes and
his friends founded the " Red Lion Clubbe," which still
meets, not with the regularity of its early days, but on
occasions, for jovial dinners and good-fellowship— the old
" Lions," and even the youngsters or '' Cubs," under the
presidency of the " Lion King," roaring and growling their ap-
proval and disapproval, and even getting up and waving their
(coat-) tails, while some make witty speeches and others sing
amusing songs, generally specially composed for the occasion,
and as often as not parodying in a good-natured way some of
the serious papers or addresses given to the Association at the
meeting. Just as some of Forbes's best work was expounded
in successive years to the British Association, so some of the
happiest of his lighter efforts first made their appearance at
the " Red Lion " dinners. In this particular year (1839), when
he gave the scientific results of his Shetland dredgings to the
Section, he sang or chanted to the " Red Lions " his " Song of
the Dredge," of which I may quote a few verses here : —
Hurrah for the dredge, with its iron edge,
And its mystical triangle.
And its hided net with meshes set
Odd fishes to entangle !
The ship may move thro' the waves above,
'Mid scenes exciting wonder,
But braver sights the dredge delights
As it roves the waters under.
Chorus : Then a -dredging we will go, wise boys
A- dredging we will go !
A-dredging we will go, a-dredging we will go,
A-dredging we will go, wise boys, wise boys,
A-dredging we will go !
O
18 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
Down in the deep, where the mermen sleep,
Our gallant dredge is sinking ;
Each finny shape in a precious scrape
Will find itself in a twinkling !
They may twirl and twist, and writhe as they wist.
And break themselves into sections.
But up they all, at the dredge's call,
Must come to fill collections.
Then a-dredging, etc.
The creatures strange the sea that range,
Though mighty in their stations,
To the dredge must yield the briny field
Of their loves and depredations.
The crab so bold, like a knight of old.
In scaly armour plated,
And the slimy snail, with a shell on his tail.
And the star- fish — radiated !
Then a-dredging, etc.
Fig. 1. — The Naturalist's Dredge.
And on another occasion, when at the Oxford Meeting
in 1847 there had been a notable discussion on the nature
and relations of the extinct dodo, Forbes brought out his
" Song of the Do- do," of which the following are some of
the verses : —
Do -do ! Vasco da Gama
Sailed from the Cape of Good Hope with a crammer,
How he had met, in the Isle of Mauritius,
A very queer bird wot was not very vicious.
Called by the name of a do-do ;
And all the world thought what he said was true.
Do-do ! although we can't see him
His picture is hung in the British Museum ;
EDWARD FORBES 19
For the creature itself, we may judge what a loss it is
When it's claw and it's bill are such great curiosities.
Do-do ! Do-do !
Ornithologists all have been puzzled by you.
Ending with the moral —
Do-do ! alas there are left us
No more remains of the Didus ineptus, etc., etc.
During his last few years at Edinburgh, Forbes made
strenuous efforts to earn a livelihood by science. He prepared
and announced courses of lectures at Edinburgh, St. Andrews,
and elsewhere, which, I fear, were but j)oorly attended, and
probably little more than paid expenses. It is interesting
to notice that in January, 1840, he gave a course of eight
lectures in Liverpool ; and it was probably on the occa-
sion of these lectures that he made the acquaintance of
Mr. Robert MacAndrew, a Liverpool merchant and yachts-
man interested in the moUusca, who during the last decade
or so of Forbes 's life, frequently took him and Goodsir or
other friends on shorter or longer dredging expeditions.^ For
example, in the summer of 1845 we find that he was with
MacAndrew on his yacht dredging in Shetland seas, and on
the way back amongst the sea-lochs of the Hebrides. On
other occasions MacAndrew took him in the yacht to dredge
Milford Haven, or off the coast of Cornwall, or other localities
which Forbes required to examine in connection with the
great work on the British MoUusca upon which he was then
engaged. Again, we find Forbes and Goodsir, in their
important paper, On Some Bemarkable Marine Invertebrata
new to the British Seas, published by the Royal Society of
^ I am glad to have the opportunity of paying this tribute to a
Liverpool yachtsman who found or helped to find many of the rarer
mollusca of British seas. His name occurs frequently in the records
of Forbes and Hanley's British Mollusca, and it is perpetuated in
science in Calocaris macandrece, one of the rarer deep-water Crus-
tacea, and in the names of several species of new shellfish which he
had been instrumental in discovering.
20 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
Edinburgh in 1851, recording that : " The animals, either
wholly new, or new to Britain, described in the following
communication, were taken during a yachting cruise with
our indefatigable friend, Mr. MacAndrew, among the
Hebrides, in the month of August, 1850." Amongst the
strange animals described and figured in this paper is the
remarkable Ascidian, Diazona violacea (the Syntethys
hebridica of Forbes and Goodsir), which, I may add, as an
example of the constancy and reliability of nature, was
dredged in quantity by myself nearly seventy years later in
the exact locality where it was first discovered by Forbes and
Goodsir. (See Plate III.)
Returning to 1840, his age was now twenty-six, and this
was the year when he published his British Starfishes — the
first of his larger and more important works. It remained as
the standard work on the subject for many years, and is still
a classic. In addition to its solid science and its value as a
work of reference, there are scattered through it touches of
humour, and the artistic and sometimes quaintly comic
vignettes and tail-pieces, with which the author's pencil has
adorned the beginnings and ends of the sections, are a pleas-
ing feature of the work. Let me quote just one passage, his
description of the dredging of the Starfish, Luidia Jragilissima
(as it was appropriately named at that time) : — •
" The first time I ever took one of these creatures I
succeeded in getting it into the boat entire. Never having
seen one before, and quite unconscious of its suicidal powers,
I spread it out on a rowing bench, the better to admire its
form and colours. On attempting to remove it for preserva-
tion, to my horror and disappointment I found only an
assemblage of rejected members. My conservative endea-
vours were all neutralized by its destructive exertions, and
it is now badly represented in my cabinet by an armless disk
and a diskless arm. Next time I went to dredge on the same
spot, determined not to be cheated out of a specimen in such
a way a second time, I brought with me a bucket of cold fresh
PLATE III.
. ^•'»''™ r^
/
DiAZOXA VIOLACEA, SaVIGNY ,
(the "Syntethys hebridica" of Forbes and Goodsir — green in the
LIVING CONDITION, VIOLET WHEN DEAD). AbOUT HALF NATURAL SIZE.
EDWARD FORBES 21
water, to which article Starfishes have a great antipathy. As
I expected, a Luidia came up in the dredge, a most gorgeous
specimen. As it does not generally break up before it is
raised above the surface of the sea, cautiously and anxiously
I sunk my bucket to a level with the dredge's mouth, and
proceeded in the most gentle manner to introduce Luidia to
the purer element. Whether the cold air was too much for
him, or the sight of the bucket too terrific, I know not, but in
a moment he proceeded to dissolve his corporation, and at
every mesh of the dredge his fragments were seen escaping.
In despair I grasped at the largest, and brought up the
extremity of an arm with its terminating eye, the spinous
eyelid of which opened and closed with something exceed-
ingly like a wink of derision " {British Starfishes, p. 138).
In turning over these earlier works of Forbes, we think
of him as the typical " field-naturalist " of the older days,
when it was still possible to take all nature for your province
and do useful work in many fields — constantly investigating,
constantly observing wherever he went, and throwing
welcome light on science by all his observations.
All Forbes's later and more famous work in Marine Biology
and the relations between Zoology and Geology— work that
extended from Hebridean and Scandinavian seas, through
the Mediterranean to the far iEgean — may be said to have
sprung from and been founded on his early work done as a
lad in the college vacations in his home Manx waters.
A little to the north of Peel, on the west coast of Man,
lies a submarine elevation, the Ballaugh fishing bank, which
was the scene of some of Forbes's earliest explorations — more
than ninety years ago. The path of the pioneer is pro-
verbially rough, and no doubt it is easier for us now, when,
on occasions, we take our students to the Ballaugh bank for
a day's dredging from Port Erin. Forbes, in his day, must
have gone in a small sail-boat from the shore below his
house, or possibly in one of the " nobbies " of the Peel
fishing fleet, and was certainly more dependent upon wind
22 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
and weather than is now the case, when we can steam to the
bank from Port Erin in an hour or two, and carry on our
work there without much regard to wind or tide, in any-
moderate weather. But we find, in going over Forbes's
records from Ballaugh, that his work was wonderfully
detailed and accurate, and there is little or nothing to add.
He found nearly all there is to find, and he marked out the
distribution of life upon the various depths and parts of the
bank with remarkable precision. And that, I think, is
characteristic of much of his work. That he did so much,
and did it so well in so short a life, full of other duties and
cares, must constantly excite the wonder and admiration of
those who humbly follow in his footsteps.
British naturalists are justly proud of the thorough
manner in which the contents of the home seas have been
made known by their distinguished predecessors ; and of
these famous monographs, which will remain classics of
science throughout all time, some of the chiefest glories both
in text and plates are those bearing the honoured name of
Edward Forbes.
In 1841 came the great opportunity of his life to make
marine investigations outside the British seas. Captain
Graves, then in command of H.M. Surveying Ship " Beacon,"
engaged on hydrographical work in the Eastern Medi-
terranean, offered Forbes the post of naturalist to the expedi-
tion, which was promptly accepted. The work so far as
Forbes was concerned was partly on land and partly at sea,
partly zoological and partly archaeological. After some
months of surveying and dredging amongst the Isles of
Greece, the " Beacon " was ordered to the coast of Lycia for
the purpose of conveying to England the remarkable carved
marbles and inscriptions discovered in the ruins of the
ancient city of Xanthus by Sir Charles Fellows. For this
task the vessel proved eventually to be quite unfitted, but it
gave the opportunity for Forbes, along with Lieut. Spratt, to
join the archaeologist, Mr. Daniell, in a series of important
EDWARD FORBES 23
explorations in the interior of Lycia, in the course of which
they determined the sites of no fewer than eighteen ancient
cities previously unknown, and rescued many inscriptions
and carvings from the ruins. They copied upwards of 200
Greek and 30 Lycian inscriptions, and Forbes and Spratt a
few years later (1847) produced an interesting work in two
volumes entitled Travels in Lycia, giving the story of their
explorations. In addition to his share of the narrative and
the archaeology, the chapters on the Natural History of
Lycia and the neighbouring seas are clearly the work of
Forbes. Mr. Daniell fell a victim to the malignant malarial
fever of the country, and Forbes himself apparently had a
narrow escape. His companion, writing in 1842, says :
" Poor Forbes, the naturalist, was taken ill on the way from
Rhodes to Syra, of the country fever, and remained for
thirteen days together without tasting food, and without
medicine or medical advice."
During this expedition, however, his main work was not
on land, but at sea ; and his marine dredgings in the Mges^n
gave great results. Captain Graves tells us how Forbes
converted every one on board — officers and men alike — into
ardent naturalists, bringing back shells and other offerings,
" curios," as they called them, from every surveying trip in
the boats.
Of the Greeks, in one letter, he foretells — " they will
be a great people yet, and are almost as interesting as the
shellfish that live on their shores." One of the points of
interest, of course, in the shellfish was that they and many
of his other captures were precisely the animals collected
and described by Aristotle from these same coasts over two
thousand years before. He dredged successfully at a greater
depth (230 fathoms) than anyone had done before, and to his
surprise he brought up living starfishes and other animals
from 200 fathoms. He writes that the shellfish from the
deeper water all belong to types only known in the fossil
condition, and that, so far, he is the only zoologist who has
24 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
seen them alive. His report on the distribution of animals
in the ^Egean Sea, which eventually appeared before the
British Association at Cork in 1843, was, a contemporary
tells us, a most important and philosophic summary of the
facts, which at once raised him to a high rank among living
naturalists. He defined, in the ^Egean, eight zones of depth
characterized by peculiar assemblages of animals, and he
" conjectured that the zero of animal life would probably be
found somewhere about 300 fathoms," so he named the
region below that the "Azoic zone "—a conclusion which
has since been found to be erroneous. Much of his zoological
work in the East was unfortunately never published, on
account of the pressure of other duties in which he became
absorbed on his return to London.
The Council of the British Association gave him con-
gratulations and encouragement, and the material support of
a grant of £100, " to be expended in comparing the fauna of
the Red Sea with that of the Mediterranean." Forbes
therefore planned an extended expedition to Egypt for this
purpose, which was first postponed by his severe illness and
then abandoned when he was recalled in October, 1842, to
London to take up the duties of Professor of Botany at King's
College ^a post he had been elected to in his absence.
There were probably few men then, and there are none
now, who could be elected to a post in botany, in geology, or
in zoology with equal success. We see him now holding two
such posts simultaneously, and he eventually went on to the
third. His professorship at King's College brought in less
than £100 a year, so he had to supplement that scanty
income by taking other work, and he applied for and was
appointed to the curatorship of the Geological Society, and
a few years later (1844) to the more important post of
Palaeontologist to the Geological Survey.
During the years in London when he filled these several
posts, it is evident that his duties as Professor of Botany
took up comparatively little of his time and energies, and
EDWARD FORBES 25
that he was then, in fact, mainly a geologist. He identified
himself thoroughly and intimately with the members of the
Geological Society and with his colleagues of the Geological
Survey, with whom, of course, he was constantly working
both in the field and at the Jermyn Street Museum. His
work as palaeontologist was to identify the large numbers
of fossils collected by the surveyors, and to give any informa-
tion he could as to the conditions under which they had lived.
In all this work, which occupied some of the best years of his
life, he was, however, what he called a " Zoo-Geologist,"
working on the border-line of the two sciences and throwing
light on both, bringing zoological knowledge in regard to
the animals represented by the fossils to bear upon geological
problems, and showing on the other hand how geological
changes in the past help to explain the distribution of animals
and plants at the present day. In some respects this was
the finest and most original work that he ever did. During
this period he was one of the founders of the Palseonto-
graphical Society, which has issued a noble series of volumes,
some of the earlier of which (e.g., British Tertiary EcJiino-
derms) are Forbes's work. He also contributed largely to
other geological publications.
We can only mention two of the more important of these
pieces of work. One of these was his careful investigation
of the layers of supposed Wealden rocks, known as the
Purbeck beds. In the autumn of 1849 he went down to the
coast of Dorset and spent some months making a most
minute investigation of the strata, with the result that he
proved that these beds really belong to the Oolitic series.
Sir Archibald Geilde tells us that, " with magnifying glass at
eye, he crept over the faces of the rock, layer by layer, noting
the peculiarities of each from top to bottom. As the result
of this detailed scrutiny, while there was no evidence that
any physical disturbance had taken place in the area during
the deposition of the whole of the strata, the testimony of the
included fossils revealed a remarkable series of alternations of
26 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
fresh, brackish, and salt-water conditions over this part of
England when the Purbeck group was in course of deposition.
Our naturalist made the further important discovery that
on several separate horizons these strata enclose the shells
of some genera of still existing air-breathing moUusks —
creatures which had not till then been found in so ancient a
formation. It was characteristic alike of his humour and of
his habit of making fun of his scientific brethren, and even
of himself, that in some verses on what he called ' Negative
Facts,' given at the Red Lion Dinner at Ipswich, and
published in the Literary Gazette for 12th July, 1851, he
instanced the finding of these shells as upsetting a premature
conclusion :
Down among the Purbecks deep enough,
A Physa and Planorbis
Were grubbed last year out of freshwater stuff.
By Bristow and E. Forbes.
(Agassiz just had given his bail
'Twas adverse to creation
That there should live piilmoniferous snail
Before the Chalk formation.)
** The discovery, however, carried with it a wider signi-
ficance. The occurrence of these snails suggested to Forbes
that if air-breathing mollusks existed in Purbeck time,
remains of mammalian life might hopefully be searched for
in the same stratum as that which contained the shells. His
sagacious prognostication was fulfilled not long after, when
bones of reptiles and insectivorous mammals were exhumed
where he had indicated."
The second example of Forbes's geological work which
I have selected for mention is his celebrated paper, " On the
Connexion between the Distribution of the Existing Fauna
and Flora of the British Isles and the Geological Changes
which have affected their Area," published in 1846, in Vol. I.
of the Memoirs of the Geological Survey, and universally
regarded as a classic on the subject.
Forbes recognized that the origin of the fauna and flora
EDWARD FORBES 27
of a country could not be solved from biological studies alone,
but would require in addition the evidence supplied by
geology in regard to former changes in climate, land, and
water. Dealing with the flora of the British Islands, he
distinguished five sub-floras or assemblages of plants — (1)
a limited " Lusitanian " flora in the west and south-west of
Ireland, comprising saxifrages, heaths, the arbutus, a Pin-
guicula, and other plants which are identical with species
found abundantly in the north of Spain ; (2) another local
flora in the south-west of England and south-east of Ireland,
resembling the vegetation of the Channel Isles and North-
western France ; (3) a restricted flora found on the chalk
downs of the south-eastern counties of England ; (4) a
remarkable though limited flora, flourishing on the tops of
the mountains, chiefly in Scotland, but also on the hills of
Cumberland and Wales, and even on some uplands in Ireland,
in which vegetation all the plants are speciflcally identical
with Scandinavian forms ; (5) and last, a general or Germanic
flora, like that of Central Europe, everywhere present either
alone or mingled with the others.
Forbes accounted for this distribution of the flora by
migration or colonization from neighbouring lands previous
to the isolation of the British Islands from the rest of Europe.
He supposed that the southern parts of our islands were
probably not submerged under the glacial sea, and that
over land now covered his three southern assemblages of
plants may have migrated successively northwards from
Spain and from France, before, during, or after the Ice Age.
If the floor of our seas was raised by even 100 fathoms, the
British Isles would become a part of the European continent,
the North Sea would become a great plain continued south
and west through what is now the English Channel, and a
strip of land would run from Britain along the west coast
of France so as to join the north of Spain. This was the
" Continental Platform " over which, according to Forbes,
the plants, and even possibly some of the lower land animals,
28 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
may have migrated into the south and west of Ireland.
The fauna of our seas also, like the land flora, presents
distinct northern and southern relations. This is clearly
seen both amongst the invertebrata, such as the molluscs,
and also amongst fishes. In discussing these relations, one
of the most interesting points that Forbes demonstrated
was the presence of " boreal outliers " or assemblages of
northern species occupying the deeper areas of about 80 to
100 fathoms that occur here and there on the west coast of
Scotland. Such molluscs as Puncturella noachina, Tricho-
tropis horealis, Natica groenlandica, Astarte elliptica, Nucula
pygmcea, Emarginula crassa, Pecten danicuSy Necera cusjn-
data, and the brachiopods Terebratida caput- serpentis and
Crania norvegica,^ are characteristic forms in these boreal
outliers, and Forbes's view was that they were a part of the
original northern fauna which formerly occupied our seas
and which had retreated northwards when the climate became
more genial subsequent to the glacial epoch, leaving these
colonies isolated in the deeper holes (see map, PI. IV, Fig. 2).
Some of the chief conclusions, to which the facts and
arguments stated in his detailed memoir lead, he summarizes
as follows : —
" (1) The fauna and flora, terrestrial and marine, of the
British Islands and seas have originated, so far as that area
is concerned, since the Miocene epoch.
" (2) The assemblages of animals and plants composing
that fauna and flora did not appear in the area they now
inhabit simultaneously but at several distinct points of time.
" (3) Both the fauna and flora of the British Islands and
seas are composed partly of species which appeared in that
area before the glacial epoch, partly of such as inhabited it
during that epoch, and in great part of those which did not
appear there until afterwards.
" (4) The greater part of the terrestrial animals and flower-
ing plants now inhabiting the British Islands arose outside
1 1 have given throughout the names as used by Forbes.
EDWARD FORBES 29
that area and have migrated to it over continuous land.
" (5) The Alpine floras of Europe and Asia are fragments
of a flora which was diffused from the North. The deep sea
fauna is in like manner a fragment of the general glacial
fauna.
" (6) The termination of the glacial epoch in Europe was
marked by a recession of the Arctic fauna and flora north-
wards, and of a fauna and flora of the Mediterranean type
southwards, and in the interspace thus produced there
appeared on land the general Germanic fauna and flora, and
in the sea that fauna which is termed Celtic.
" (7) All the changes before, during, and after the glacial
epoch appear to have been gradual and not sudden, so that
no marked line of demarcation can be drawn between the
creatures inhabiting the same element and the same locality
during two proximate periods."
I have omitted some of his conclusions which can no
longer be regarded as based on fact : others require some
modification. Much has been found out during the last
eighty years, and it is not surprising if some of Forbes's
brilliant and far-reaching speculations have proved incorrect
or incomplete. For example, the three southern sub-floras
of Forbes, in place of being the oldest as he supposed, we now
know must have been the most recent ; and it is now very
doubtful to what extent they migrated over continental land
now submerged, as he supjDOsed, or were carried by birds,
currents, or other natural agencies.
But while admitting some such imperfections due to the
scanty knowledge of that day,^ we must recognize that this
was a notable contribution to the theory of distribution, far
in advance of anything known at the time. It practically
opened up a fresh fleld of investigation, and proved to be the
starting-point and stimulus of much subsequent research.
About 1850 Forbes prepared his remarkable map of dis-
tribution of marine life over the oceans of the world, and
of homoiozoic belts, which was probably the first attempt
30 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
to divide the oceans into provinces on scientific grounds.
There are many of his writings, and of his lectures, which
I have no space to refer to, though all have their points of
interest. Take this, for example : — In 1847, he writes to a
friend : " On Friday night I lectured at the Royal Institution.
The subject was the bearing of submarine researches and
distribution matters on the fishery question. I pitched into
Government mismanagement pretty strong, and made a fair
case of it. It seems to me that at a time when half the
country is starving we are utterly neglecting or grossly mis-
managing great sources of wealth and food. . . . Were I a
rich man, I would make the subject a hobby, for the good of
the country and for the better proving that the true interests
of Government are those linked with and inseparable from
Science." We must still cordially approve of these last
words, while recognizing that our Government Department
of Fisheries is now organized on better lines, and is itself
carrying on scientific work of national importance.
I have laid more stress upon Forbes's theoretical papers
than upon his matter-of-fact descriptive works. Useful as
these latter are, indispensable to the systematic zoologist
and palaeontologist, works some of them, such as Forbes and
Hanley's British Mollusca (published in 4 vols, between 1848
and 1853), which will remain as classics for all time, still they
are books to consult rather than to read. On the other
hand, his theories — such as those on the distribution of
marine animals in the Mediterranean, and on the relations of
the British fauna and flora to the great Ice Age, even if in
some respects they are now regarded as erroneous or incom-
plete— have had a position and an influence in the history of
science, have been an inspiration to many both in his own
generation and since, and have led up to and guided the very
researches which have, in some cases, resulted in more correct
views. His theory of the " azoic zone " in the sea, that no
life existed below 300 fathoms, based upon his observations
in the Eastern Mediterranean, was justified by the facts
EDWARD FORBES 31
known at the time, but required to be modified later on when
the deep-sea dredging expeditions, which Forbes's work had
stimulated, made known that an abundant living fauna
extended down to the greatest depths of the abysses.
Taken altogether, it is a wonderful volume of work both
in quantity and quality for a man to have produced who died
before reaching the age of forty. His working life, even con-
sidering that he began original work very young, was limited
to about twenty years, and it is reasonable to suppose that,
had he lived, he would have made Edinburgh the greatest
centre of marine biological work in Europe. That was
evidently the opinion of his contemporaries. It is on record
that he was worshipped by the men, old and young, who
attended his first and only course of lectures in Edinburgh.
They spoke of the wonderful influence, charm, and fascination
that Forbes exercised on all who came in contact with him,
and of the gloom and consternation which spread over the
university when it was reahzed that he would never again
meet his class.
Forbes was appointed to the goal of his ambition, the
Chair of Natural History, at Edinburgh, in March, 1854.
He gave a course of lectures in the summer term to a large
and enthusiastic audience, after which he returned to London
to finish off work for the Geological Survey until driven to
take a brief holiday in the country by a severe attack of
illness. In September the British Association met in Liver-
pool, and Forbes occupied the honourable position of
President of the Geological Section, in which, we are told, he
acquitted himself with great distinction— as he did likewise
when presiding, in the character of a Scottish Lion, at the
Red Lion Dinner during the same meeting.
His last pubHshed article, written at this time, a review
of Sir R. Murchison's Siluria, contains a memorable
passage, beginning : —
" The old Scandinavian gods amused themselves all day
in their Valhalla hacking each other to small pieces, but when
32 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
the time of feasting came, sat down together whole and
harmonious, all their wounds healed and forgotten. Our
modern Thors, the hammer- wielders of Science, enjoy similar
rough sport with like pleasant ending." His purpose was
to show that scientific disputes need not lead to unfriendly
relations — that after tearing each other to pieces, meta-
phorically, in the section room the protagonists can dine
together amicably as '' Red Lions."
There is no doubt that he was in poor health during this
summer, and had had no adequate rest. He returned to
Edinburgh in October to prepare for his winter course, which
sta-rted on November 1st. But after a week's lecturing he
broke down completely from weakness and an attack of
fever, which soon showed symptoms of kidney trouble, and
became rapidly worse, leading to his death a few days later.
His old friend. Professor Hughes Bennett, who was with him
to the last, in an obituary notice, states : "A chronic disease
contracted when in the East, re-excited and rendered violent
by a severe cold caught last autumn, and which burst out
with uncontrollable fury about ten days ago, was the imme-
diate cause of his premature death."
In judging of the man it is important to bear in mind
the dominating influence of his personality and conversation,
quite apart from his publications. Few can now be alive
who have held converse with him, but from remarks in the
writings of his contemporaries we gain the impression of a
genial and lively genius, with a free and independent spirit
that roamed over a wide range in quest of knowledge and
occupation.
Although an ardent student, he was far from being the
recluse or the typical absent-minded " philosopher," as the
man of science was called in those days. Accomplished, and
with high social gifts, he appreciated versatility and sports-
manlike qualities in others, and he once stated (in an article
on Sir Humphry Davy's Salmonia) that he " would
undertake, without traveUing far, to furnish philosophers, of
EDWARD FORBES 33
various scientific callings, who could ride a race, hunt a fox,
shoot a snipe, cast a fly, pull an oar, sing a song, or mix a
bowl, against any man with unexercised brains, or even with
none at all, in the United Kingdom." Mixing of bowls has
gone out of fashion in scientific circles, but with that excep-
tion, and with such additions as may have resulted from the
developments of sport and locomotion, the boast might be
repeated of the " philosophers " of the present generation.
Forbes was certainly the most brilliant and inspiring
naturalist of his day — a day when it was still possible to
make original contributions to knowledge in several depart-
ments of nature. As we have seen, he held posts successively
as Professor of Botany in London, as False ontologist to the
Geological Survey, and as Professor of Natural History in
Edinburgh ; but to my mind the best description in brief
form is that he was the pioneer of oceanography — the science
of the sea.
It is true that the term oceanography was not coined
till much later, and that Forbes in his marine explorations
probably did not realize that he was opening up a most com-
prehensive and important department of knowledge. But
it is also true that in all his expeditions — in the British seas
from the Channel Islands to the Shetlands, in Norway, in
the Mediterranean as far as the JEgesm Sea —his broad out-
look on the problems of nature was that of the modern
oceanographer, and he was the spiritual ancestor of men like
Sir Wyville Thomson, of the " Challenger " expedition, and
Sir John Murray, who carried on the work, through more
recent post-" Challenger " times^ almost to our own day.
Forbes in his marine investigations, as we have seen,
worked at border-line problems, dealing, for example, with
the relations of geology to zoology, and the effect of the
past history of the land and sea upon the distribution of
plants and animals at the present day, and in these respects
he was an early oceanographer. For the essence of that new
subject is that it also investigates border-line problems and
34 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
is based upon, and makes use of, all the older fundamental
sciences — Physics, Chemistry, and Biology— and shows, for
example, how variations in the great ocean currents may
account for the movements and abundance of the migratory
fishes, and how periodic changes in the chemical characters
of the sea are co -related with the distribution at the different
seasons of the all-important microscopic organisms that
render our oceanic waters as prolific a source of food as the
pastures of the land.
Oceanography is as yet scarcely known in most universities,
and when it does come to be more generally recognized and
provided for, it will probably be in the main as a research
department, carrying on investigations partly by experiments
in the university laboratories on shore, partly by observa-
tions on special expeditions at sea, and partly, no doubt, by
the accumulation and comparison of data as to temperatures
and saHnities, obtained from commercial vessels making
ocean traverses — all on the lines shown by the magnificent
" Musee Oceanographique " at Monaco, and also by the
programme of work of the *' Conseil Permanent International
pour I'Exploration de la Mer," a scheme of co-operation
between the nine or ten maritime nations of North-west
Europe, and, I think I may add, although the methods and
the objects may now be somewhat different, also quite in
the spirit of the pioneer work performed in the Irish Sea by
Edward Forbes seventy to eighty years ago.
It must always remain an interesting speculation as to
what part Edward Forbes would have played, had he lived
in the great controversy which raged a few years later round
the Darwinian theory of Evolution by means of Natural
Selection. Forbes and Darwin were practically contem-
poraries,^ but whereas Forbes's life-work was ended in 1854,
Darwin's more celebrated works were not published until
after 1858, the year when he and Wallace laid their epoch-
^ Darwin was precisely six years senior, being born on February 12,
1809.
EDWARD FORBES 35
making communication upon "The Tendency of Species to
form Varieties " before the Linnean Society of London.
Forbes, at the time of his death, was, in the opinion of his
contemporaries, the most original naturaUst of the time,
and he had certainly had as much to do with the recognition
and description of species— species of animals, of plants, and
of fossils — as anyone of his day. Would this knowledge have
helped him to appreciate Darwin's new views, or would it
have confirmed him in the more orthodox opinions of the
time ? Huxley was his junior by ten years, and Huxley was
the protagonist of Darwinian Evolution. Would Forbes
have been found in the same camp, or would he have been
one of those more senior men in regard to whom Darwin said
that he did not expect to convince experienced naturalists
whose minds had been accustomed during many years to
an opposite point of view, but looked with confidence " to
young and rising naturalists, who will be able to view both
sides of the question with impartiality " ? ^
When reading Forbes 's views on specific and generic centres
of distribution, or his work in tracing the migrations of
species both in space and time, or the description of his
great map of '' homoiozoic belts," one feels that surely he
was not far from a belief in the mutability and community
of descent of organic forms, and that, had he lived, he must
have readily seen that the Darwinian theory gave a reason-
able explanation of the great series of facts in distribution
which his industry had collected and his genius had mar-
shalled. These, taken along with his unrivalled palaeonto-
logical knowledge, are the grounds for hoping that Forbes
would have been found with Huxley in the Darwinian camp.
In the entrance hall of the Port Erin Biological Station,
the most conspicuous object is the large white bust of Edward
Forbes (Plate IV, Fig. 1), whose clear-cut, intellectual features
and genial expression at once arrest the eye, and appear to
preside over the activities and destiny of the institution. And
^ Origin of Species, 6th Edition, p. 423.
36 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
what better position could there be for this finely formed
reminder of the Manx pioneer of science than in this workshop
of Manx marine biology, devoted to the continuation and
extension of Forbes's work in his native land ? For here, all
researchers who work in the laboratory, every one of the
hundreds of senior students who enter on a course of study at
Port Erin, and all who care of the many thousands of visitors
who frequent the Aquarium, recognize or learn who Professor
Edward Forbes was, and what he did. His works are in our
library at the Biological Station, the starfishes and molluscs
he described so well with pen and pencil are in the sea before
our doors, his home at Ballaugh is almost in sight. In all
our work at Port Erin, we keep his words, as well as his
familiar features, constantly before us as an example, an
inspiration, and a reminder of the great Manx naturalist,
who first made known the abundant treasures of our seas.
PLATE IV.
Bust of Edward Forbes.
FoRBEs's Distributional Map of British Seas.
CHAPTER III
SIR C. WYVILLE THOMSON AND THE
- CHALLENGER " EXPEDITION
It seems quite appropriate that the last chapter, dealing
with the life and work of the great Manx naturalist and early
oceanographer Professor Edward Forbes should be fol-
lowed by some account of the scientific career of that later
oceanographer Sir Wyville Thomson, whose name will go
down through the ages as the leader of the famous " Chal-
lenger " Deep-sea Exploring Expedition. There are many
links between these two men. Both were naturalists in
the widest sense, with an extensive knowledge of the natural
sciences and a great appreciation of nature in all its aspects.
Each occupied at the end of his life the Chair of Natural
History in the University of Edinburgh, though neither had
time to develop the great school of marine biology which
might have been expected from such men in such a place
had opportunity permitted. Forbes was only fifteen years
the senior, and was at the zenith of his fame — publishing
epoch-making views on the distribution of living things in
the sea — at the time when Thomson entered the University
of Edinburgh, and no doubt these views would arrest the
attention and guide the thoughts of any keen young student
of the natural sciences. It was Forbes who, on a basis of
observations which were then thought to be sufficient, but
are now known to be exceptional, placed the zero of life in
the sea at 300 fathoms or thereabouts, and it was Wyville
Thomson more than any man who proved that Forbes's views
were in this particular erroneous, and that many and varied
37
38 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
living things inhabit the greatest depths of the ocean. It
may seem to some readers that Forbes lived very long ago, in
a remote period of last century, but Wy ville Thomson bridges
over the gap to our time. He knew Edward Forbes, and I
was fortunate enough to be the student, and later on assistant,
of Sir Wyville Thomson. It is then, as will be realized, a
peculiar satisfaction to me to make known to a younger
generation of marine biologists what I am able to recollect
or recover as to the life-work of my respected master, and
as to the part he played in that great development of
oceanography as a science which characterized the latter
part of the nineteenth century.
Charles Wyville Thomson was born on March 5, 1830,
at his ancestral country house of Bonsyde, within sight of
the famous loch and ruined royal palace of Linlithgow, and
not far from the shores of the Firth of Forth. His family
had been connected with Edinburgh and the neighbourhood
for generations, his great-grandfather, for example, being a
law officer of the Crown at the time of the Jacobite rising
in 1745. He was educated at Merchiston Castle School,
formerly the home of Napier the inventor of logarithms, and,
as in the case of some other men of science, his favourite
study at school was, we are told, the Latin poets. We are
apt to forget that in these cases there was probably no science
taught in the school, and no opportunity given to the boy
of studying anything more interesting than the Odes of
Horace.
At the age of sixteen he matriculated as a student of
medicine in the University of Edinburgh, but his main inter-
ests were said to be zoology, botany, and geology, and he
was suspected of sometimes wandering as an observer and
collector of marine invertebrates along the prolific shores of
the Firth, when he ought, according to rules and regulations,
to have been engaged with lectures and textbooks. Like
many of the more intelligent students of science in Edinburgh,
both at that time and later, he joined the Royal Physical
WYVILLE THOMSON 39
Society — which, despite its name, is a Society of Natural
History — and for a couple of years he filled the office of
secretary, surely one of the youngest on record. Fortunately
for oceanography, after about three years of study, ill-health
caused our young naturalist to give up all idea of the medical
profession, and to turn his attention definitely to the natural
sciences as his life-work. He left the university in 1850,
without taking a degree, but his ability and reputation were
such that he made rapid progress in the chosen career, and
filled successively the posts of Lecturer on Botany in the
University of Aberdeen (1851), Professor of Natural History
in Queen's College, Cork (1853), Professor of Geology in
Belfast (1854), and a few years later (1860) Professor of
Zoology and Botany in the same college. It will be noticed
that, like Edward Forbes, Wyville Thomson was capable
of filling with success posts in all the natural sciences in
succession, and this wide range of interest and of knowledge
was, of course, of immense advantage in the great work that
was to come in exploring the oceans.
A former student and assistant of Professor Wyville
Thomson, at Belfast, has kindly provided me with the follow-
ing impressions : — Thomson had a bright, handsome face and
a Hght, springy step ; he was a delightful and instructive
lecturer, who had on his table a profusion of specimens of
which he made incessant use, but spoke without notes. His
Saturday excursions must have been delightful. We have
a picture of him striding along, vasculum on back, at the head
of his students, pointing out specimens and objects of interest
as they were encountered. His hospitahty to his students has
left pleasant memories of the music and games at their
social evenings. Amongst other activities at Belfast, he took
a prominent position at the Natural History and Philo-
sophical Society, the BeKast Naturalists' Field Club, and
also the Literary Society, at all of which he read papers. We
hear that he gloried in his beautiful garden and was a valued
judge at the local flower shows.
40 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
It was during this period of teaching at Belfast that he
began to make his mark in the scientific world as a marine
biologist who studied animals both living and extinct, and
published his investigations on British Coelenterates and
Polyzoa and on fossil Cirripedes and Trilobites. In working
at Palaeontology he became interested in fossil Crinoids, and
so was led to the investigation of their only living representa-
tives in our seas — the Rosy Feather Stars — a study which,
we shall see, led him step by step to the great climax of his
career, the leadership of the " Challenger " expedition. In
1862 Thomson completed his well-known memoir, " On the
Embryogeny of Antedon rosaceus " (published in the Philo-
sophical Transactions of the Royal Society for 1865), illustrated
by a beautiful series of drawings representing the develop-
ment and structure of the " pentacrinoid " stages in the life-
history of the young Antedon.
It was at this time, also, that he became interested in
those questions concerning life in the great depths of the
ocean, the elucidation of which was to be his life-work and
make him famous. It will be remembered that Edward
Forbes, from his observations in the Mediterranean (an
abnormal sea in some respects), regarded depths of over
300 fathoms as an azoic zone. It was the work of Wyville
Thomson and his colleagues on various successive dredging
expeditions to prove conclusively, what was beginning to be
suspected by naturalists, that there is no azoic zone in the
sea, but that abundant life belonging to many groups of
animals extends down to the greatest known depths of from
four to five thousand fathoms — nearly six statute miles from
the surface. We can trace the gradual growth of Thomson's
ideas in regard to the sea with the natural widening of his
scope — from collecting as a student on the shores of the Firth
of Forth to dredging as a young professor along the coasts of
Ireland, and then to the successive deep-water expeditions
in the surveying vessels " Lightning " and " Porcupine,"
and finally to the great world-wide exploring voyage of the
WYVILLE THOMSON 41
" Challenger." We can also trace the steps in his Echino-
derm studies which seem to have led him to the fruitful field
of deep-sea exploration. Palseontological investigation sug-
gested work on living Crinoids, and the news that a strange
new stalked Crinoid (Rhizocrinus), related to the fossil
Apiocrinidae, had been found living in Northern seas, induced
him, in 1866, to visit Professor Michael Sars at Christiania,
and examine for himself the remarkable collection of rare
animals that his son, George Ossian Sars, had brought up
from deep water (over 300 fathoms) in the Lofoten fjords.
He was struck by their novelty and deep interest and by
their resemblance to and bearing upon some of the extinct
animals of former geological periods, and especially of the
Chalk.
Thus inspired, he urged his friend, Dr. W. B. Carpenter,
with whom he was then w^orking at the later development of
Antedon, to join him in endeavouring to promote an expedi-
tion to explore the deep waters of the Atlantic along the north-
west coasts of Europe. Dr. Carpenter's powerful advocacy
induced the Council of the Ro^^al Society to use its influence
with the Hydrographer, with such success that the Admiralty
consented to place first one and then another small surveying
steamer at the disposal of a committee of scientific experts
for expeditions under the leadership of the two enthusiasts.
After the first summer, a third naturalist of European fame.
Dr. Gwyn Jeffreys, author of the five volumes on British
Conchology, joined Carpenter and Thomson in conducting
the practical work at sea ; and the account of how, in 1868,
H.M.S. " Lightning," and, in 1869 and 1870, H.M.S. " Por-
cupine," were equipped by the Admiralty and sent out to
explore the depths, from the Faroes in the North to Gibraltar
and beyond in the South, is given in full detail in Wyville
Thomson's great work, The Depths of the Sea, which may be
regarded as the first general textbook of oceanography.
It was published just as the " Challenger " expedition was
leaving England, and so gives us a statement of matters and
42 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
opinions up to that important point in the history of the
science. It is too long to summarize ; but I may give some
idea of its contents by quoting a few passages, and stating
a few facts : —
" The surveying ship ' Lightning ' " (Sir Wyville writes,
p. 57) " was assigned for the service — a cranky little vessel
enough, one which had the somewhat doubtful title to
respect of being perhaps the very oldest paddle -steamer in
Her Majesty's Navy. We had not good times in the ' Light-
ning.' She kept out the water imperfectly, and as we had
deplorable weather during nearly the whole of the six weeks
we were afloat, we were in considerable discomfort. The
vessel, in fact, was scarcely seaworthy, the iron hook and
screw-jack fastenings of the rigging were worn with age,
and many of them were carried away, and on two occasions
the ship ran some risk."
Still, on this " cranky little vessel " in the rough seas of
the North Atlantic, they dredged down to 600 fathoms ; and
in 1869 on the " Porcupine," a more seaworthy ship, they
got successful hauls from the great depth of 2,435 fathoms,
nearly three statute miles.
Part of the book is historical, and amongst other inter-
esting matters gives an account of those earlier observations
which afford glimpses of a fauna in the deep sea. For
example, we are told how in 1860 Professor Fleeming Jenkin,
in repairing a cable in the Mediterranean, found several
animals, including a deep-sea coral, attached to the broken
cable at a depth greater than 1,000 fathoms, and therefore
much beyond the supposed zero of Edward Forbes. During
the " Porcupine " expeditions, sixteen hauls of the dredge
were taken at depths beyond 1,000 fathoms, and two in
depths greater than 2,000 fathoms, and in all cases life was
found to be abundant.
Let us take next Wyville Thomson's account of a
remarkable discovery made by one of these hauls, viz., that
of the first living representative of the fossil flexible sea-
WYVILLE THOMSON 43
urchins of the Chalk ever seen by a scientific man (p. 165) : —
" This haul was not very rich, but it yielded one specimen
of extraordinary beauty and interest. As the dredge was
coming in we got a glimpse from time to time of a large
scarlet urchin in the bag. We thought it was one of the
highly coloured forms of Echinus flemi7igii of unusual size,
and as it was blowing fresh and there was some little difficulty
in getting the dredge capsized, we gave little heed to what
seemed to be an inevitable necessity — that it should be
crushed to pieces. We were somewhat surprised, therefore,
when it rolled out of the bag uninjured ; and our surprise
increased, and was certainly in my case mingled with a
certain amount of nervousness, when it settled down quietly
in the form of a round red cake, and began to pant— a Hne
of conduct, to say the least of it, very unusual in its rigid,
undemonstrative order. Yet there it was with all the
ordinary characters of a sea-urchin, its inter-ambulacral
areas, and its ambulacral areas with their rows of tube feet,
its spines, and ^yq sharp blue teeth ; and curious undulations
were passing through its perfectly flexible leather-like test.
I had to summon up some resolution before taking the weird
little monster in my hand, and congratulating myself on the
most interesting addition to my favourite family which had
been made for many a day." ^
I shall quote one more description (p. 160) of a haul of a
dredge supplied with rope '' tangles " from deep water : —
" I do not believe human dredger ever got such a haul.
The special inhabitants of that particular region — vitreous
sponges and echinoderms — had taken quite kindly to the
tangles, warping themselves into them and sticking through
them and over them, till the mass was such that we could
scarcely get it on board. Dozens of great Holtenice, like
^ Wyville Thomson gave a detailed description of this and the
other new Echinoidea obtained on the " Porcupine " expeditions in
his Memoir, piibHshed in the Philosophical Transactions of the Royal
Society for 1874.
44 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
' Wrinkled heads and aged,
With silver beard and hair,'
a dozen of the best of them breaking off just at that critical
point where everything doubles its weight by being lifted out
of the water, and sinking slowly away back again to our
inexpressible anguish ; glossy wisps of Hyalonema spicules ;
a bushel of the pretty little mushroom-like Tisiphonia ; a
fiery constellation of the scarlet Astropecten tenuispinis ;
while a whole tangle was ensanguined by the ' disjecta
membra ' of a splendid Brisinga.'" ^
In the final chapters of the book he discusses such highly
important and controversial matters as Deep-sea Tempera-
tures, the Gulf Stream, and the Continuity of the Chalk. In
summarizing the results obtained in regard to the deep-sea
fauna, he says (p. 80) : —
" Finally, it had been shown that a large proportion of
the forms living at great depths in the sea belong to species
hitherto unknown, and that thus a new field of boundless
extent and great interest is open to the naturalist. It had
been further shown that many of these deep-sea animals are
specifically identical with tertiary fossils hitherto believed to
be extinct, while others associate themselves with and
illustrate extinct groups of the fauna of more remote periods ;
as, for example, the vitreous sponges illustrate and unriddle
the ventriculites of the chalk."
These pioneering expeditions — the results of which are
not even yet fully made known to the scientific world — were
epoch-making inasmuch as they not only opened up this new
world to the systematic marine biologist, but gave glimpses
of world-wide problems in connection with the physics, the
chemistry, and the biology of the sea which are only now
being adequately investigated by the modern oceanographer.
These results, which aroused intense interest amongst the
^ For descriptions and figures of HoUenia and other new deep-sea
Hexactinellid Sponges, see his Memoir in the Phil. Trans. Royal
Soc. for 1869.
WYVILLE THOMSON 45
leading scientific men of the time, were so rapidly surpassed
and overshadowed by the still greater achievements of the
" Challenger " and other national exploring expeditions
that followed in the seventies and eighties of last century,
that there is some danger of their real importance being lost
sight of ; but it ought never to be forgotten that they first
demonstrated the abundance of life of a varied nature in
depths formerly supposed to be azoic, and, moreover, that
some of the deep-sea animals were related to extinct forms
belonging to Jurassic, Cretaceous, and Tertiary periods.
Naturally Wyville Thomson, the young (then about forty)
and active originator and leading spirit of these new and
successful investigations, became a famous man. In 1869
he was elected to the Fellowship of the Royal Society, and in
1870 he succeeded Allman as Professor of Natural History
in the University of Edinburgh, the post held by Forbes
some fifteen years before. Thomson was a fluent and lucid
lecturer, and a successful professor, greatly appreciated by
his many students. His classes at Edinburgh were amongst
the largest in the university, and were probably unequalled
in size by any classes of zoology elsewhere in the country.
Had time and strength permitted, he might have developed
a great school of Marine Biology in connection with his
university, but .larger schemes further afield almost imme-
diately claimed his attention.
The undoubted success of the preliminary expeditions
in the " Lightning " and " Porcupine " encouraged Carpenter
and Wyville Thomson, again through the Council of the
Royal Society, to induce the Government to equip a deep-
sea expedition on a really grand scale to explore and make
known the conditions of life in the great oceans. This
resulted in the famous circumnavigating expedition in H.M.S.
*' Challenger," and Professor Wjrvrille Thomson as the chief
originator of the expedition was appointed director of the
civilian scientific staff on board. Two other members of
that staff, J. Y. Buchanan, the chemist, and John Murray,
46 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
the naturalist — and future oceanographer — were also
recruited from the University of Edinburgh.
It has been said that the " Challenger " expedition will
rank in history with the voyageslof Vasco da Gama, Columbus,
Magellan, and Cook. Like these, it added new regions of
the globe to our knowledge, and the wide expanses thus
opened up for the first time — the floors of the oceans — were
vaster than the discoveries of any previous exploration.
H.M.S. "Challenger" (Fig. 2, p. 57) was a spar-deck corvette
of 2,306 tons displacement, with auxiliary engines of 1,234
indicated horse-power. She sailed in December, 1872, and
returned in May, 1876, and during these 3 J years she traversed
about 69,000 miles in the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, and
penetrated as far south as the Antarctic ice barrier. Sound-
ings and dredgings or trawlings were taken at 362 stations,
and enormous collections, such as the scientific world had
never seen before, of marine organisms large and small, and of
samples of bottom deposits and of water from all depths and
all latitudes, were brought home for detailed investigation.
As Sir Ray Lankester has said : " Never did an expedition
cost so little and produce such momentous results for human
knowledge." A number of preliminary reports written
during the voyage were sent from the " Challenger " by
Wyville Thomson, as Director, to the Hydrographer of the
Admiralty, and were published by the Royal Society in
1875 and 1876.^ Some were written by the Director himself,
others were reports to him by the other members of the
scientific staff. Thus, Moseley reported on the more remark-
able Hydroids and Corals discovered, Murray on the deep-
sea deposits and on the surface organisms, von Suhm on
some of the Crustacea and their larval forms, and Buchanan
on the physics and chemistry of the sea. All these prelimi-
nary reports are of interest even now to look over, and must
have been far more so nearly fifty years ago, when they
were published, as they gave the first glimpses of a world
^ See especially Proc. Roy. Soc, No. 170, 1876.
WYVILLE THOMSON 47
of new knowledge which was afterwards elaborated and
displayed in the finished series of " Challenger Reports,"
and has now found its way into textbooks and been incor-
porated in the fabric of established science.
The long voyage, a considerable part of it spent in the
tropics, cannot but have affected to some extent the health
of men not trained to a life at sea. One of the naturaUsts,
Dr. R. von Willemoes-Suhm, died during the voyage ;
Sir Wyville Thomson's health broke down soon after his
return, and he died early in 1882 ; Professor Moseley died
comparatively young in 1891, after some years of ill-health.
Sir John Murray, on the other hand, was still in vigorous
health at the age of over seventy-two, when he was killed
in a motor accident in 1914. Dr. Buchanan, the chemist
to the expedition, is now the sole survivor of the civilian
scientific staff. The members of that staff were all briUiant
men, who aU produced most distinguished work. It had
been said of Moseley, when a young man, that you had only
to put him down on a hiUside with a piece of string and an
old nail, and in an hour or two he would have discovered
some natural object of surpassing interest. During the
voyage, in addition to working at the groups of animals,
such as Corals, entrusted to his care, he made very notable
collections in Botany and Anthropology from the remote
and little-known islands that were visited. He also investi-
gated some of the more remarkable of the organisms encoun-
tered either on sea or land, such as a pelagic Nemertean
and some deep-sea Ascidians. While the " Challenger " was
at Cape Town he took advantage of the opportunity to
search for Peripatus, at Wynberg, on the slopes of Table
Mountain, and on his first-found living specimen succeeded
in demonstrating its essentially Tracheate nature.
In his book. Notes of a Naturalist on the " Challenger,'"
Professor Moseley gives us an interesting account of the deep-
sea dredging and sounding, and of the length of time required
for these operations on board the " Challenger." At a depth
48 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
of 4,500 fathoms the sounding weight took an hour and a
quarter to reach the bottom, and a much longer time to wind
in again. It used to take all day to dredge and trawl at any
considerable depth, and the net was usually got in only at
nightfall. The ship, when dredging, used to lie rolling about
all day drifting along with the wind and dragging the dredge
slowly over the bottom. " At last, in the afternoon, the
dredge -rope was placed on the drum, and wound in for three
or four hours, sometimes longer. Often the rope or net,
heavily weighted with mud, hung on the bottom, and there
was great excitement as the strain gradually increased on
the line. On several occasions the rope broke, and the end
disappeared overboard, three or four miles of rope and the
dredge being thus lost. At first, when the dredge came up,
every man and boy in the ship who could possibly slip away,
crowded round it, to see what had been fished up. Gradually,
as the novelty of the thing wore off, the crowd became
smaller and smaller . . . and as the same tedious animals
kept appearing from the depths in all parts of the world, the
ardour of the scientific staff even abated somewhat, and on
some occasions the members were not all present at the critical
moment, especially when this occurred in the middle of
dinner-time, as it had an unfortunate propensity of doing.
It is possible even for a naturalist to get weary of deep-sea
dredging. Sir Wyville Thomson's enthusiasm never flagged,
and I do not think he ever missed the arrival of the net at
the surface." ^
The conditions under which life exists in the deep sea are
very remarkable. The pressure due to the weight of water
is enormous, and amounts roughly to a ton on the square
inch for every thousand fathoms ; so that at 5,000 fathoms
the pressure is about five tons, that is, between seven and eight
hundred times as great as the 15 lb. on the square inch we
are accustomed to at sea-level. On one occasion we are told
that Mr. Buchanan, the chemist to the expedition, hermeti-
^ Notes of a Naturalist on the " Challenger,'" p. 501.
WYVILLE THOMSON 49
cally sealed up a thick glass tube, wrapped it in flannel, and
enclosed it in a wide copper tube with perforated ends, and
then lowered the whole to a depth of 2,000 fathoms and
hauled it up, when it was found that the copper tube was
flattened by the pressure, and the glass tube inside the flannel
was reduced to a fine powder like snow. This process was
referred to by Sir Wyville Thomson as an " implosion," the
converse of an explosion. The most delicate animals, how-
ever, are able to exist under these enormous pressures, as
their tissues are permeated by fluids under the same pressure,
and are consequently supported equally on the inside and the
outside. It is only when some animal is brought up too
suddenly from a great depth to the surface that the release
of pressure has a disastrous effect. Some fishes arrive with
their eyes burst out of their heads, their scales forced off, and
other parts of the body horribly distorted.
The temperature in these great depths is at or about
freezing-point ; and, as the sunlight probably only penetrates
for a few hundred fathoms, there must be total darkness with
the exception of occasional dim, ghostly glimmers of light
given out by phosphorescent animals.
Moseley gives an amusing account of their tame and some-
what dilapidated parrot, who, from his perch on one of the
wardroom hat-pegs, talked away constantly and amused
them during the whole voyage. His great triumph, we are
told, was frequently to repeat : " What ! 2,000 fathoms and
no bottom ! Ah, Dr. Carpenter, F.R.S. ! "
On the return of the expedition, Wjr^ille Thomson was
appointed Director of the " Challenger " Expedition Commis-
sion, located in Edinburgh, for the purpose of seeing to the
distribution and investigation of the vast collections, and the
pubHcation of the results ; and from that time onwards for
about twenty years Edinburgh was the centre of oceano-
graphic research and the Mecca towards which marine
biologists from all over the world turned to inspect the
novelties of the wonderful collections and to discuss results.
E
50 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
In selecting specialists to prepare the reports, Thomson and
his successor Murray very wisely chose the best men avail-
able, irrespective of nationality. Consequently, the fifty
quarto volumes of reports contain some of the best work of
the most distinguished naturalists of all countries. It was
not, however, until twenty years after the expedition that the
last of these volumes was issued, and the last of the collections
was safely deposited in the British Museum.
It is unfortunate that the man of science has so frequently
to make a choice between the necessary work of administra-
tion and original research. Let us trust that he does not
invariably select the work for which he is least fitted. Sir
Wyville Thomson was given little time for either. In the
few years of work that remained before his health gave way,
he was so occupied with his many and varied duties as
director of the Commission and editor of the reports, that
there was little time for the original work he had planned to
do in connection with the collections of Stalked Crinoids and
of Hexactinellid Sponges — the two groups that he had
reserved for his own investigation, and upon which he was an
acknowledged authority.
He was knighted in 1876, and was awarded one of the gold
medals by the Royal Society. In 1877, he dehvered the Rede
Lecture at Cambridge, and in the following year presided
over one of the sections of the British Association at Dublin.
It was during these years, after the return of the expedition,
that I was privileged to know him, first as a senior student
and young assistant and then as naturalist on the
" Challenger " Commission, when I had priceless oppor-
tunities of becoming acquainted with the wonderful
collections, and with the* distinguished men from all countries
who came to Edinburgh to study them and to consult with
Sir Wyville Thomson and with his Chief Assistant, Dr.
Murray, afterwards Sir John. To mention just a few of
those I recollect most vividly, either at the " Challenger "
Office or at Sir Wyville's hospitable house of Bonsyde,
PLATE V.
Sir Wyville Thomson.
WYVILLE THOMSON 51
where I had frequently to help him in the editing of the
first few volumes of reports, or by taking some of his
more energetic distinguished guests out for a walk round the
countryside, listening rather awe-struck to their wonderful
conversation (it was frequently a monologue, and I believe I
acquired merit as a good listener), there were : that veteran
of science. Dr. W. B. Carpenter, Professor Huxley, Moseley,
Hubrecht, Ernst Haeckel, Alexander Agassiz, Mcintosh,
Percy Sladen, the Abbe Renard, Hjalmar Theel, Sir WilUam
Turner, Canon Norman, Professor P. G. Tait, Hoek, Perceval
Wright, and a number of younger men who have since
attained distinction, but were then just launched on a
scientific career. During that time the distribution of many
of the groups of animals to specialists, and the form in which
the reports were to be published, was being decided on, and
many interesting details had to be arranged between Sir
Wyville and his " Reporters " on the one hand, and the
Stationery Ofiice of the Government (which undertook the
publication) on the other, the latter seeming to have great
difficulty in understanding the cmious requirements of
scientific authors in regard to printing and illustration.
During this time at home Sir Wyville published (Macmillan
& Co., London, 1877) his preliminary account of the general
results of the expedition, in two volumes, entitled Voyage of
the " Challenger " — The Atlantic, which were to have been
followed by companion volumes on the Pacific that, unfor-
tunately, never appeared. The Atlantic is a most readable
work, full of observations on the botany, geology and
antiquities of the places visited as well as on the marine
biology and general oceanography of the cruise. A notable
feature of the book is the series of really beautiful text-
figures illustrating the new species of Echinodermata and
Sponges, which Professor Thomson had to some extent
investigated during the voyage, and which he briefly described
in these two volumes. Some of the figures of Holothurians,
Sea-urchins and Starfishes show interesting cases of " direct
52 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
development " of deep water or Antarctic Echinoderms,
where the young were found in curiously devised marsupial
cavities, and had evidently never passed through a free larval
stage.
I shall quote here a couple of passages from The Atlantic,
to give some idea of the varied interest of the book and of
Sir Wyville's descriptive power.
In writing of the masses of weed in the Sargasso Sea, he
saj^s {Atlantic, Vol. II, p. 10) : " The floating islands have
inhabitants peculiar to them, and I know of no more perfect
example of protective resemblance than that which is shown
in the gulf-weed fauna. Animals drifting about on the
surface of the sea with such scanty cover as the single broken
layer of the sea-weed, must be exposed to exceptional danger
from the sharp-eyed sea-birds hovering above them, and from
the hungry fishes searching for prey beneath ; but one and all
of these creatures imitate in such an extraordinary way, both
in form and colouring, their floating habitat, and conse-
quently one another, that we can well imagine their deceiving
both the birds and the fishes. ... A little short-tailed crab
(Nautilograpsus minutus) swarms on the weed and on every
floating object, and it is odd to see how the little creature
usually corresponds in colour with whatever it may happen
to inhabit. These gulf-weed animals, fishes, mollusca, and
crabs, do not simply imitate the colours of the gulf -weed ;
to do so would to be to produce suspicious patches of
continuous olive ; they are all blotched over with bright
opaque white, the blotches generally rounded, sometimes
irregular, but at a little distance absolutely undistinguish-
able from the patches of Membranipora on the weed."
On one occasion he describes (p. 147) the loss of a great
catch, when trawling at a depth of 2,350 fathoms in the South
Atlantic. " The trawl was lowered, and on heaving in it
came up apparently with a heavy weight, the accumulators
being stretched to the utmost. It was a long and weary
wind-in on account of the continued strain ; at length it
WYVILLE THOMSON 53
came close to the surface, and we could see the distended net
through the water ; when, just as it was leaving the water,
and so greatly increasing its weight, the swivel between the
dredge-rope and the chain gave way, and the trawl with its
unknown burden quietly sank out of sight. It was a cruel
disappointment, every one was on the bridge, and curiosity
was wound up to the highest pitch : some vowed that they saw
resting on the beam of the vanishing trawl the white hand of
the mermaiden for whom we had watched so long in vain ;
but I think it is more likely that the trawl had got bagged
with the large sea-slugs which occur in some of these deep
dredgings in large quantity, and have more than once burst
the trawl net."
Here is a record of an historic event in our knowledge of
the Protozoa (p. 293) :—
" On one occasion in the Pacific, when Mr. Murray was out
in a boat in a dead calm collecting surface creatures, he took
gently up in a spoon a little globular gelatinous mass with a
red centre, and transferred it to a tube. This globule gave us
our first and last chance of seeing what a pelagic foraminifer
really is when in its full beauty. When placed under the
microscope it proved to be a Hastigerina in a condition wholly
different from anything which we had yet seen. The spines,
which were mostly unbroken, owing to its mode of capture,
were enormously long, about fifteen times the diameter of the
shell in length ; the sarcode, loaded with its yellow oil-cells,
was almost all outside the shell, and beyond the fringe of
yellow sarcode the space between the spines to a distance of
about twice the diameter of the shell all round was completely
filled up with delicate hullce, like those which we see in some
of the Radiolarians, as if the most perfectly transparent
portion of the sarcode had been blown out into a delicate
froth of bubbles of uniform size. Along the spines fine
double threads of transparent sarcode, loaded with minute
granules, coursed up one side and down the other, while
between the spines independent thread-like pseudopodia ran
54 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
out, some of them perfectly free, and others anastomosing
with one another or joining the sarcodic sheaths of the spines,
but all showing the characteristic flowing movement of living
protoplasm. The woodcut [in loc. cit.'] , excellent though it is,
gives only a most imperfect idea of the complexity and the
beauty of the organism with all its swimming or floating
machinery in this expanded condition."
The conclusion at which Wyville Thomson arrived from
a consideration of deep-sea and shallow-water faunas was
(p. 331) : — " It would seem that the enormous pressure, the
utter darkness, and the differences in the chemical and
physical conditions of the water and in the proportions of its
contained gases depending upon such extreme conditions, do
not influence animal life to any great extent."
During these few years after the return of the " Challenger "
a number of lithographic plates illustrating the new Stalked
Crinoids and the new Hexactinellid Sponges of the expedition
were drawn on stone under Sir Wyville's direction, and were
afterwards made use of in the completed reports on the
former group by Dr. P. H. Carpenter, and on the latter by
Professor F. E. Schulze.
Even after his health began to give way, he arranged for
and directed, even if he did not actually conduct, a very
important subsidiary expedition for the purpose of investi-
gating further the very remarkable conditions of temperature
and fauna which had been noticed in the Faroe Channel
during the earlier cruises in the North Atlantic.
Carpenter and Wyville Thomson, during their preliminary
investigations in the " Lightning " and " Porcupine," had
found that the Faroe Channel between Cape Wrath and the
Faroe Isles was abruptly divided into two regions under
very different conditions — a " cold " and a " warm " area.
The temperature of the water to a depth of 200 fathoms is
much the same in the two areas ; but in the cold area to the
N.E. the temperature is about 34° F. at 250 fathoms and
about 30° at the bottom in 640 fathoms, while in the warm
WYVILLE THOMSON 55
area which stretches S.W. from the line of demarcation the
temperature is 47° F. at 250 fathoms and 42° at the bottom
in 600 fathoms. The warm area was found to have 216
species, while the cold had 217, and of these only 48 species
were common to both.
Sir Wyville Thomson (see Nature, Sept. 2, 1880), as a
result of his consideration of the " Challenger " temperatures,
came to the conclusion that the cold and warm areas of the
Faroe Channel must be separated by a very considerable
submarine ridge rising to within 200 or 300 fathoms of the
surface. He therefore addressed a letter in June, 1880, to the
Hydrographer of the Admiralty, pointing out these facts, and
asking for the use of a surveying vessel for a few weeks for
the purpose of sounding the Faroe Channel with a view of
testing his prediction. That was the origin of the " Knight
Errant " expedition conducted by Captain Tizard and
Dr. John Murray, under the general direction of Sir Wyville
Thomson, who remained at Stornoway in the Outer Hebrides
during the four traverses of the region in question. The
results ^ completely justified Sir Wyville Thomson's predic-
tion, and showed that a ridge rising to within 300 fathoms of
the surface runs from the N.W. of Scotland by the Island of
Rona to the southern end of the Faroe fishing banks.
This was followed by a further expedition in H.M.S.
" Triton" in the summer of 1882, again under Murray and
Tizard, which was very fruitful of zoological results. The
discovery of two very different assemblages of animals
living on the two sides of the Wyville Thomson ridge — Arctic
forms to the north and Atlantic forms to the south — gives
us a notable example of the effect of the environment on the
distribution of marine forms of life.
Sir Wyville Thomson, however, did not live to see the
" Triton " expedition and the full results of the exploration of
the submarine ridge which so appropriately bears his name.
His health had been failing for several years. In June, 1879,
1 Published in the Proc. Roy. Soc. Edin. for 1882 (Vol. XI).
56 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
he had an attack of paralysis, and had to give up most of his
university work. He resigned his professorship in October,
1881, and the Directorship of the ' ' Challenger " Commission at
the end of that year. He was able, in an invalided condition,
to attend the Jubilee Meeting of the British Association at
York in August, 1881, and died at Bonsyde on March 10th,
1882, in his 53rd year. He was a man of handsome presence
and genial nature, with great personal charm of manner.
His general culture, large fund of information on many
subjects, his aptness and humour in conversation all con-
tributed to make him a social success in Edinburgh and the
beau-ideal of a host in his country home, where he gathered
round him a large circle of friends by no means confined to
scientific men.
He had a quaint way of occasionally bringing in old Scots
sayings, or snatches of poetry, as for example, when he thought
a question unimportant : —
Twenty peacocks in the air. I wonder how they all got there.
I don't know — and I don't care !
or — more briefly, when with friends who understood him,
simply — '' Twenty Peacocks."
Judged from the scientific point of view, he probably
turned out less original work than might have been expected.
He is to be regarded as one of those who promoted science
quite as much by his tact, influence and personality as by his
own researches. Much that he had planned and begun was
never completed, much that he might have done was pre-
vented by his stirring life, frequent changes of post, his
important administrative work and his numerous social
duties. He was inspiring in conversation, kindly in his help
and advice to younger workers, sagacious in counsel and
highly valued by a wide circle of scientific friends in this
country, in America, and on the Continent.
The important question now to be considered is, how has
the " Challenger " expedition, which we owe mainly to the
WYVILLE THOMSON
57
inspiration and the energy of Sir Wyville Thomson, advanced
the science of the sea ? This may be answered under various
heads, and many leading authorities in different branches of
oceanography have given their answer during the haK-
century that has elapsed since the expedition took place.
To take hydrography first, it must be remembered that
every contribution to our knowledge of the ocean currents
and their character, the ocean floor, its nature and depth, the
prevalent winds and meteorological and magnetical con-
FiG. 2. — H.M.S. "Challenger" preparing to Sound, 1872.
From Reports of the " Challenger" Expedition. {By permission of the Controller of
H.M. Stationery Office.)
ditions is an addition to the safety of the sailor, to the ease
and speed with which a voyage may be accomplished, and
to the intercourse of nations. " Every Briton is proud of
Britannia's navy ; but let us remember that it is something
more than our Empire's fighting machine, that it has been in
the past, and will be still more in the future, the servant of
the world, and a most potent agent in the peaceful union and
advance of all its peoples."
58 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
Captain Tizard, who was the Navigating Officer on the
" Challenger " during the expedition, tells us that the naval
officers on board, equally with the scientific men, were all
animated with the idea that it was their business to make
the expedition a success, and we understand that while each
member of the staff had his own work-room, in which he
could pursue his own subject uninterruptedly, they all com-
pared notes and got suggestions from one another in the
smoking circle after dinner ; a function which, we are told,
was always well attended, and where the events and work
of the day were freely and amicably discussed.
The chief hydrographic results which have benefited
navigation are, according to Tizard (1895) : —
(1) The proof that the variation of the compass can be
determined as accurately in a ship as on shore, if the ship is
magnetically suitable.
(2) The determination for the first time of the depths and
main contour lines of the great ocean basins. It was shown
that some of the great depths formerly reported had been
much exaggerated, and the deepest sounding obtained was
4,475 fathoms, in the neighbourhood of the Mariana Islands
in the N. Pacific. The investigations of many other expedi-
tions (such as the '' Tuscarora," the '' Gazelle," the " Vettor
Pisani," and the " Valdivia ") since the " Challenger " have
not altered in any material degree the contour lines of
the great oceans drawn by our expedition in 1876, and have
not resulted in the discovery of any depth exceeding
5,269 fathoms, about six statute miles. The " Challenger "
explorations give no support to the fanciful theory of a lost
" Atlantis." Microscopic investigations have revealed no
traces of mythical continents now beneath the sea.
(3) The determination of oceanic temperatures and
their independence of seasonal variation below the depth of
100 fathoms.
(4) The proof of constant bottom temperatures over large
areas in the ocean. Thus, in the N. Atlantic the temperature
WYVILLE THOMSON 59
at depths exceeding 2,000 fathoms was found to be constant
at about 36*5° F., while in the N. Pacific the bottom tempera-
ture was constant at 35° ; in parts of the S. Atlantic the
temperature at the bottom fell to 32-7°, while in the Sulu
Sea it is 50*5°, and in the Arafura Sea 38*6°, while it is known
that the bottom temperature of the Mediterranean is constant
at 55*5°, and that of the Red Sea at 69°, these differences
being due to certain oceanic areas being separated from each
other by submarine ridges, which prevent a more general
spreading of the cold bottom water from the poles. No
bottom temperature was obtained as low as the freezing
point of salt water.
(5) The determination of the exact position of many
islands and rocks, the longitude of which had been previously
uncertain.
(6) The charting and surveying of various little-known
parts of the world, and their biological investigation.
(7) The determination of the ocean currents both on the
surface and at various depths.
One of the results of the " Challenger " expedition was
undoubtedly an increase in our knowledge of the details of
structure and the probable mode of formation of coral reefs
and islands. Before the expedition, several geologists and
naturalists had published doubts as to the universal applica-
bility of the subsidence theory of coral reefs which we owe
to Darwin. Semper, for example, showed that in the Pelew
Islands up-raised reefs and atolls (which, according to the
theory, indicate a sinking area) are found close together.
The " Challenger " observations in regard to submarine
elevations and the mode of accumulation of deep-sea deposits
enabled Mr. Murray (afterwards Sir John) to formulate and
publish a new theory as to the origin of atolls, which does not
postulate any changes of level, but makes use merely of
processes of growth and decay which we know to be at work
and constantly acting. The matter is by no means finally
60 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
settled even now, and it may well be that Darwin's theory
holds good in certain parts of the ocean, while Murray's
explanation is true for other series of atolls.
One of the principal additions to knowledge made by the
" Challenger " observations was as regards the deposits now
accumulating at various depths on the floor of the ocean.
During the voyage the preservation and examination of
these deposits was part of Murray's work, and subsequently,
along with his friend the Abbe Renard, he made a most
comprehensive study of all the submarine deposits (about
12,000) that could be obtained from various expeditions, and
published in the " Challenger " series a most authoritative
report, which will be for long the standard work on the
subject. Omitting terrigenous deposits, which are formed
close to the shore and are made up chiefly of matters washed
down from the land or worn o£F from the coast, the deep-sea
" oozes," as they have come to be called, are divided into
various kinds, such as Globigerina ooze, Radiolarian ooze,
Diatom ooze, Pteropod ooze, according to the nature of their
chief constituents, while another most extensive deposit,
occupying over 50 million square miles on the floor of the
ocean at depths of over 2,000 fathoms, contains compara-
tively few conspicuous organisms and is known as Red
Clay because of the alumina and iron and manganese which
it contains. In some places associated with the Red Clay
are found great deposits of manganese nodules, ear-bones of
whales, and gigantic sharks' teeth apparently belonging to
extinct species. It was the " Challenger " observations that
first enabled oceanographers to map out the distribution of
these pelagic oozes on the floor of the ocean, and which first
gave us a rational explanation of their nature and process
of formation.
In connection with deep-sea deposits, it may be appro-
priate to point out that it was the naturalists on the
" Challenger " who pricked the bubble of " Bathybius " and
made known the real nature of that mythical organism.
WYVILLE THOMSON 61
Some eminent biologists of the past, from an examination
of some of the earUer deep-sea dredgings, had come to the
conclusion that a grey gelatinous material, sometimes found
in such deposits, was the remains of a primitive protoplasmic
living slime covering the ocean bottom as a nutrient pabulum
upon which, in the absence of plants, the more highly
organized animals could graze — reminding one of the good
old days in Ireland when —
The streets of Kilkenny were paved with penny loaves.
And the houses were thatched with pancakes.
In his book, The Depths of the Sea, Wyville Thomson speaks
of it as " the universally distributed ' Moner ' of deep water,"
and gives an excellent figure of " Bathybius " with its
amoeboid protoplasm and its contained Coccoliths.
The Bathybius mjrth had for a time a great vogue —
particularly in Germany. Theoretically it was beautiful, it
explained so much, but unfortunately on the " Challenger '*
it came in contact with hard facts of experiment and at once
succumbed. It was proved by Mr. Buchanan that when a
certain quantity of strong alcohol was added to a certain
quantity of sea- water, the sulphate of lime was precipitated
in the form of an amorphous deposit which clung around any
particles, such as sand grains, mud, or the minute shells of an
ooze, and gave exactly the appearances under the microscope
which had been supposed to indicate the presence of proto-
plasm in the submarine deposit. Thus, as Huxley once said,
" Bathybius has not fulfilled the promise of its youth," but
from the experiments of the " Challenger " naturahsts has
been shown to be simply the sulphate of lime in the sea- water
of the ooze precipitated by the alcohol which was added for
preservation purposes.
There were great and widespread hopes and expectations
amongst scientific men that the '' Challenger " explorations
would result in the discovery of many ancient and primitive
types, belonging to extinct groups, still living in the great
62 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
depths of the ocean. These hopes were not realized to any
great extent. No Trilobites, no Cystoids and Blastoids, no
archaic connecting links comparable in morphological import-
ance with such land or shallow-water forms as Ornitho-
rhynchus, Amphioxus, Balanoglossus, Peripatus, Apus, or
Limuhis, have been found in the depths of the ocean ; and
the accepted view now is that the deep-sea animals are not
for the most part early and primitive forms, but have been
derived from the more ancient shallow- water faunas. There
are comparatively few " living fossils " in the deep sea. The
vast number of new forms, however, added greatly to our
knowledge of the infinite variety and range of structure of
almost all groups. The expedition conclusively established
the existence of abundance of living things, from the lowest
of marine animals up to fishes, in even the great abysses of
the ocean.
If we make a careful survey of the fifty large quarto
volumes of reports, we find that most of the innumerable
discoveries with which the " Challenger " expedition has
enriched zoological science are additions to our knowledge
either of the abyssal animals that live at the bottom of deep
water or of the plankton, those that float near the surface.
Beginning with the lower animals and working upwards, in
the Radiolaria Haeckel, who reported on the material, made
known more than 4,000 species, for the most part new to
science. The numerous beautiful plates of the organisms
forming Radiolarian and Globigerina ooze are amongst the
most important additions to our knowledge of the Protozoa.
A wholly new group of Radiolaria, the Challengerida
(Phaeodaria), having a remarkable skeleton of hollow spines
formed of a peculiar combination of silica with organic
matter, and living in intermediate waters at a considerable
depth but not on the bottom, was added by the " Challenger "
investigations.
Literally hundreds of new species of Sponges were described
in the " Challenger " reports, and amongst these the greatest
WYVILLE THOMSON 63
interest attaches to the representatives of that ancient and
wonderfully beautiful group, the Hexactinellida, in which
we find Euplectella, the " Venus' flower basket " of the
PhiHppine Islands, and Hyalonema, the " glass rope "
sponge.
In the Coelenterata the work of greatest novelty and
distinction was certainly that of the late Professor Moseley.
His remarkable report on " Corals " contains a section on
the Hydrocorallinai, which is full of original discoveries of
great value which have now been incorporated in all text-
books of zoology. He confirmed the view that Millepora
is a stony Hydroid, and he was able to prove that all the
Stylasteridse also belong to that group, and incidentally his
work overthrew the old-established group of the Tabulate
Corals. In another section of this report he gives an
account of the important discovery, which he made at the
Philippine Islands, that Heliopora, the blue coral, is really
an Alcyonarian.
Amongst the Echinoderm reports, that on the Crinoidea
is perhaps the most interesting and important. It may be
recalled that it was the discovery by G. 0. Sars in 1864 of the
stalked Crinoid Ehizocmius, a member of the Jurassic and
Cretaceous family Apiocrinidse, still living in the deep fjords
of Norway, that stimulated Sir Wyville Thomson and Dr.
W. B. Carpenter to promote the cruises of the " Lightning "
in 1868, and of the " Porcupine " in 1869 and 1870, and thus
led up to the " Challenger " expedition. Sir Wyville had
intended himseK to describe the stalked Crinoids, and had
made some progress in the examination and classification of
the specimens and in the preparation of some of the plates
when his break-down in health prevented any further work of
the kind. The reports on these and on the Comatulida were
eventually prepared by Dr. Carpenter's distinguished son,
Dr. P. H. Carpenter, who as a lad had been his father's
assistant on one of the cruises of the " Porcupine." The
" Challenger " results definitely showed that, in place of
64 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
being, as was supposed, " a group on the verge of extinction,"
the stalked Crinoids were widely distributed and showed
scarcely any decrease in numbers since the times of their
ancestors in Mesozoic seas. Some of the Echinoidea
described in the report by Professor Alexander Agassiz
resemble the Ananchjrtidae of the Chalk, others are related
to the extinct Galerites ; while Cystechinus, with a thin
flexible test, recalls the Palaeozoic Palaeechinidse. Some of
the Echinothuridae, with flexible tests of imbricating plates,
had long been known as Cretaceous fossils, and the first-
found living representative, Calveria hystrix, of the " Porcu-
pine," was added to on the " Challenger " expedition by
various species of the remarkable allied genera, Phormosoma
and Asihenosoma.
Many abyssal starfishes of primitive t3rpe were found, and
a number of these, in place of passing through a free larval
stage, have " direct " development, and keep their young for
a period in some form of nidamental pouch. Many new and
extraordinary deep-water Ophiuroids were added to know-
ledge, but it is perhaps in the Holothurians that we find the
most surprising novelties. A whole new abyssal group of
over fifty remarkable species — the Elasipoda— has been
made known in the report by Professor Hjalmar Theel,
nearly all found at depths greater than 1,000 fathoms and
ranging practically from pole to pole. They are charac-
terized, partly by primitive characters, such as the open
madreporic canal on the surface of the body, and partly by
adaptive characters fitting them to a life on the bottom ooze,
over which they crawl and upon which they feed.
Amongst novelties in the Worms may be noted an
elaborately branched Syllis, spreading its numerous ramifica-
tions through the canal system of a Hexactinellid Sponge
dredged off the Philippines. Another noteworthy form was
Pelagonemertes, a pelagic Nemertine described by Moseley,
from the North Pacific and the Southern Ocean.
The " Challenger " reports on Crustacea occupy nearly
WYVILLE THOMSON 66
one-fourth of the whole, and describe nearly 1,000 new
species, some of which show remarkable modifications
induced by life at great depths. Certain of them are totally
blind, and others have eyes that are profoundly degenerate
in their minute structure and are probably useless as organs
of sight.
Amongst the Pycnogonida, or Sea-Spiders, were some
gigantic forms of Colossencleis, measuring about two feet across
the outstretched appendages. Although not, of course, a
discovery in marine biology, it may be noted here that
Moseley was enabled, by the examination of fresh specimens
of Peripatus obtained at the Cape, to demonstrate the
essentially Tracheate nature of that primitive and annectent
form. Living representatives of the fossil Trilobites were
eagerly looked for — but never found.
In the Mollusc a, as in Crustacea, we find a tendency for
the eyes to degenerate or disappear, in deep water. The
" Challenger " collections enabled Pelseneer to establish a
phylogenetic classification of the Lamellibranchiata based
on the structure of the gills, and to show that the pelagic
Pteropods are a polyphyletic group, some of which are
related to one, and the rest to another, section of the Opistho-
branchiata. One of the prizes obtained was the living
specimens of Trigonia, dredged off the coast of Australia, a
primitive cockle-like form found fossil in European rocks of
secondary age, and long supposed to be extinct.
In the Cephalopoda the single specimen of Spirula, of
which only five individuals are known to science, is one of
the priceless treasures of the expedition. A living Nautilus
pompilius was brought up from 320 fathoms, off Fiji, and
Moseley has given us a description of its swimming move-
ments in a tub of water on deck. It had been confidently
hoped that some deep-sea representatives of those extinct
groups, the Ammonites and Belemnites of Mesozoic times,
would be found, and Moseley tells us that " even to the last
every cuttle-fish which came up in our deep-sea net was
66 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
squeezed to see if it had a Belemnite's bone in its back " —
all in vain — no such " living fossil " was found.
One of the greatest discoveries of the " Challenger "
expedition was the remarkable Cephalodiscus, dredged in
the Strait of Magellan from 246 fathoms. It is a gregarious
member of the Hemichordata related to Bhahdopleura and
Balanoglossus , and it buds o£f new individuals which all live
together in the cavities of a hollow gelatinous coenoecium,
which they have jointly secreted. It has been shown that
the regions of the body and the divisions of the coelom corre-
spond closely with those of Balanoglossus, and that there is
a tubular notochord extending forwards from the pharynx
to strengthen the proboscis region.
Amongst the Tunicata many remarkable new abyssal
forms were obtained, which have added greatly to our know-
ledge of the range of structure in the group. For example,
the new genus, Octacnemus, first described by Moseley, has
a much reduced and degenerate branchial sac, and has re-
quired the formation of a new family. Then, again, several
distinct genera, Pharyngodictyon amongst Compound As-
cidians, and Culeolus, Fungulus, and Bathyoncus amongst
Ascidise Simplices, have the branchial sac simplified by the
total absence of the system of fine inter-stigmatic vessels, the
result being that the wall of the organ is reduced to a net-
work of very large meshes, in most cases strengthened by
branched and curved calcareous spicules. These are all of
them abyssal forms, and no such structure of the branchial
sac has been found in shallow- water Ascidians. Very
many of the deep-sea Ascidians, including the new genera
Culeolus, Fungulus, Ascopera, Hypohythius, and Coryn-
ascidia, are pedunculated, as if they required to be supported
upon stalks above the soft ooze in which their bases are
entangled and upon which the animals evidently feed.
The intestines are found distended with, in some cases,
Globigerina and in others Radiolarian or Diatomaceous
ooze. Amongst pelagic Tunicates a noteworthy form is a
WYVILLE THOMSON 67
new Pyrosoma of gigantic size, of which a magnificent speci-
men, measuring over fom* feet in length, was obtained in the
North Atlantic, but of which, unfortunately, only fragments
were preserved for study. Moseley, in his book. Notes by a
Naturalist, tells us that the officers amused themselves by
writing their names with the finger on the surface of the
giant Pjnrosoma, as it lay on deck in a tub at night, and the
names came out in a few seconds in letters of fire.
Many interesting discoveries were made on the " Challen-
ger " in regard to the deep-sea fishes, which were shown to
extend down to no less than 2,750 fathoms. Perhaps the
most sensational novelty is the presence of light-producing
organs on the heads, gill-covers, and bodies of many abyssal
fishes, and apparently under the control of the animal's will.
Delicate organs of touch are in other cases associated with
imperfect eyes. All the deep-sea fishes are, however, modi-
fications of shallow- water forms, and none of them represent
types of earher date than the Cretaceous period.
No reference can be made here to the valuable reports
on Reptiles, Birds, and Mammals — nor to those on the
Botany and Anthropology of the various little -known lands
visited during the expedition.
I am afraid that I have been able to give only a brief
and inadequate summary of some of the chief results of the
" Challenger " expedition, but I must not omit to point out
that one of the most important results is the improvement
in methods of investigation seen in later expeditions. It is
easy to criticize the '' Challenger" equipment and methods,
and even the contents of some of the reports, but it must
be remembered that it all happened fifty years ago, and
that the methods of science may become old-fashioned in a
very few years. The naturalists on the '* Challenger " were
the pioneers of deep-sea exploration, and their experiences
taught many lessons by which later expeditions profited.
Improved methods of capture of oceanic animals have resulted
68 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
from the uncertainty felt on the " Challenger " as to the zone
from which particular organisms found in the nets had been
really obtained. Instruments, invented since, that can be
opened and closed at any given depth, will prevent, or at
least minimize, any such possible errors in the future. Wire
has been substituted for rope in both sounding and dredging,
and all the physical and chemical apparatus and methods
are now much more reliable and refined than those employed
by the " Challenger " pioneers. This is merely the natural
result of the progress of science, and especially of such a
new and rapidly advancing science as oceanography, during
half a century of strenuous endeavour.
Some of the " Challenger " reports may be found old-
fashioned and unsatisfying in transcendental morphology by
the student of the present day, but the fifty noble volumes
form a zoological library in themselves, and every young
specialist on a group of marine animals has still to consult
them, and before proceeding to new and no doubt more
profound researches, must ascertain what was made known
by his predecessors from their work on the collections brought
home from the abysses of the ocean by the " Challenger "
circumnavigating expedition.
CHAPTER IV
SIR JOHN MURRAY, THE PIONEER OF MODERN
OCEANOGRAPHY
We now pass to the third and last of the periods chosen
to illustrate oceanographic research during the nineteenth
century, and I associate it with the name of Sir John Murray,
whose life and work extended to the year of the outbreak
of war ; and, as in the two former cases, I shall begin with
some account of the man, his surroundings and the conditions
under which he did his work, and then deal with some of
the results of his contributions to oceanography. Murray's
period was absolutely continuous with that of Sir Wyville
Thomson, and in fact overlapped it ; so that, as we shall
see, it fell to Murray to continue and complete the work
of Thomson, in addition to undertaking other more recent
investigations. While Sir Wjr^ille Thomson's name will
always be remembered as the leader of the " Challenger "
expedition. Sir John Murray will be known in the history
of science as the naturalist who brought to a successful
issue the investigation of the enormous collections and the
publication of the scientific results of that memorable
voyage : these two Scots share the honour of having guided
the destinies of what is still the greatest oceanographic ex-
ploration of all times.
John Murray, although a typical Scot in all his ways, was
born in Canada — at Coburg, Ontario, on March 3, 1841.
But he was of Scottish descent, and returned in early life
to maternal relatives in Scotland to complete his education.
The lives of our three pioneers just occupied a century (1815
69
70 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
to 1914), and to some extent overlapped. Forbes was only
fifteen years senior to Wyville Thomson, and Thomson eleven
years senior to Murray. While John Murray was still a
school-boy in Upper Canada, Forbes was running his brief
meteoric career as professor in Edinburgh, and Wyville
Thomson was a young lecturer on the natural sciences in
Ireland. Curiously enough, all three went through unusually
extended courses as students of medicine and science at the
University of Edinburgh, and not one of them took a degree.
Forbes was a genius who neglected his work and frankly
" funked " his examinations when the time came. In
Thomson's case ill-health, fortunately for science, stopped
his proposed career in medicine ; while Murray despised
examinations and degrees, and probably never proposed to
take them. He studied a subject because he wanted to know
it, and in that spirit he ranged widely over the Faculties of
his university. When I was a student and young graduate
I used to hear him denounce in vigorous language all examina-
tions and other formal tests of knowledge, and yet, late in
life, there was probably no man of his time who had so many
honorary degrees and titles conferred upon him by the univer-
sities and learned academies of Europe and America.
After returning to Scotland as a boy in the teens, he lived
for some time with a grandfather at Bridge of Allan, and
attended the High School at Stirling. During this time he
seems to have been most interested in the physical sciences,
and especially electricity. He established some electrical
apparatus at his home, and in an address to his old school, in
1899, he gives an amusing account of some of the results of his
experiments with a large induction coil, such as the following:
" On another occasion, several companions arrived from
Stirling to see my experiments ; they had with them five
dogs, one of them being ' Mysie,' a large dog belonging to
Sir John Hay, and I had a large Newfoundland called ' Max.*
We resolved to give the dogs a shock. They were duly
arranged in the room, and the circuit was completed by
JOHN MURRAY 71
bringing the noses of the two largest dogs together. Pande-
monium was the result. Each dog believed he had been
bitten by the other. They fought, chairs and tables were
overturned, and much of the apparatus broken. In the
future, I was requested to turn my attention to the observa-
tional sciences of botany, zoology, and geology."
He then spent some years, in the sixties, at the University
of Edinbmrgh, where he was known as a " chronic " student,
working at the subjects in which he was interested without
following any definite course. Amongst the professors under
whom he studied at that time, and who became his close
friends in later life, were P. G. Tait in physics, Crum Brown
in chemistry, Turner in anatomy and Archibald Geikie in
geology. A decade or so later, after the return of the
" Challenger " expedition, he became once more a student at
the University of Edinburgh, and that was when I had the
good fortune first to meet him.
In 1868 he visited Spitzbergen and Jan May en and other
parts of the Arctic regions on board a Peterhead whaler, on
which, on the strength of having once been a medical student,
he was shipped as surgeon. This voyage of seven months
probably did much to confirm that interest in the phenomena
and problems of the ocean which had been first aroused
on his passage home from Canada, ten years before. This
interest was doubtless further stimulated diuring the imme-
diately following years by the epoch-making results of the
pioneer deep-sea expeditions in the " Lightning " and
" Porcupine," then exploring, under the direction of Wyville
Thomson, Carpenter, and Gwyn Je£freys, the Atlantic coasts
of Europe. And then, fortunately, in 1870, Wyville Thom-
son was appointed professor at Edinburgh, which now
became the centre of the negotiations and arrangements
with the Admiralty and the Royal Society that led eventually,
in 1872, to the equipment and despatch of our great British
Deep-sea Exploring Expedition.
It was only an odd chance that [led to Murray's connection
72 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
with the " Challenger." The scientific staff had already been
definitely appointed when, at the last moment, one of the
assistant naturalists dropped out, and, mainly on the strong
recommendation of Professor Tait, in whose laboratory
Murray was at the time working. Sir Wyville Thomson offered
him the vacant post — surely one of the best examples in the
history of science of the right man being chosen to fill a post.
In addition to taking his part in the general work of
the expedition, Murray devoted special attention to three
subjects of primary importance in the science of the sea,
viz., the plankton or floating life of the oceans, the deposits
forming on the sea bottoms, and the origin and mode of
formation of coral reefs and islands. It was characteristic of
his broad and synthetic outlook on nature that, in place of
working at the speciography and anatomy of some group of
organisms, however novel, interesting, and attractive to the
naturalist the deep-sea organisms might seem to be, he took
up wide-reaching general problems with economic and
geological as well as biological applications. Amongst the
preliminary reports sent home during the course of the
expedition, and published in the Proceedings of the Royal
Society (vol. xxiv. No. 170, p. 471), we find those by John
Murray, written from Valparaiso, December 9, 1875, dealing
with (1) Oceanic Deposits, (2) Surface Organisms and their
relation to Oceanic Deposits, and (3) Vertebrata (mainly
Fishes), which, though superseded by the later work of him-
self and others, are still of great historic interest. In that
preHminary account of the Oceanic Deposits we find Murray's
first classification into (1) Shore deposits, (2) Globigerina
ooze, (3) Radiolarian ooze, (4) Diatomaceous ooze, and (5)
Red and Grey Clays, which has been adopted with little or
no change in all succeeding works ; and, in his report on the
surface organisms, we find the first figures of the living
Hastigerina, Pyrocystis, and the remarkable deep-water
Radiolaria known as '' Challengerida."
Each of the three main lines of investigation — deposits,
JOHN MURRAY 73
plankton, and coral reefs — which Murray undertook on board
the " Challenger " has been most fruitful of results both in his
own hands and those of others. His plankton work has led
on to those modern planktonic researches which are closely
bound up with the scientific investigation of our sea-fisheries.
His observations on coral reefs, in conjunction with the
" Challenger " results as to depths of the ocean and the
presence of submarine volcanic elevations, resulted in his new
and most original theory as to the formation of " atolls,"
which removed certain difficulties that had long been felt by
zoologists and geologists alike to stand in the way of the
universal acceptance of Darwin's well-known theory of coral
reefs and islands.
His work on the deposits accumulating on the floor of the
ocean resulted, after years of study in the laboratory as well
as in the field, in collaboration with the Abbe Renard of the
Brussels Museum, afterwards Professor at Ghent, in the pro-
duction of the monumental Deep -sea Deposits volume, one
of the '' Challenger " reports, which first revealed to the
scientific world the detailed nature and distribution of the
varied submarine deposits of the globe and their relation to
the rocks forming the crust of the earth.
These studies led, moreover, to one of the romances of
science which deeply influenced Murray's future life and
work. In accumulating material from all parts of the world
and all deep-sea exploring expeditions for comparison with
the " Challenger " series, some ten years later, Murray found
that a sample of rock from Christmas Island, in the Indian
Ocean, which had been sent to him by Commander (now
Admiral) Aldrich, of H.M.S. " Egeria," was composed of a
valuable phosphatic deposit.
Murray's interest in this rock was at first solely in relation
to the " Challenger " deposits and its possible bearing on his
coral-reef theory ; but he soon realized its economic as well as
scientific interest, and was convinced that the island would be
of value to the nation. After overcoming many difficulties,
74 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
he induced the British Government to annex this lonely,
uninhabited volcanic island, and to give a concession to work
the deposits to a company which he formed. He sent out
scientific investigators to study and report on the products,
and the results have been highly successful on both the
scientific and the commercial sides. Sir John Murray visited
Christmas Island himself on several occasions, he had roads
cleared, a railway constructed, waterworks established, piers
built, and the necessary buildings erected. In fact, the
lonely island was colonized by about 1,500 inhabitants, and
flourishing plantations of various kinds were established in
addition to the working of the phosphatic deposits. Murray
was able to show that some years before the war the British
Treasury had already received in royalties and taxes from
the island considerably more than the total cost of the
" Challenger " expedition. This is one of these cases where
a purely scientific investigation has led directly to great
wealth — wealth, it may be added, which in this case has
been used to a great extent for the advancement of science.
In the case of Sir John Murray, as in that of Sir Wyville
Thomson, I am writing of a man who made a strong personal
impression as one of my teachers in science at Edinburgh
some forty-five years ago. It is not from one's formal
instructors alone that one learns. Murray was never on the
teaching staff of the university ; but a few of us (generally
Major-General Sir David Bruce, now of the Lister Institute,
Professor Noel-Paton, now of Glasgow, and myself), who
were then, in the late seventies, young students of science,
and were privileged to have the run of the " Challenger "
Office, learned more of practical Natural History from John
Murray than we did from many university lectures.
This was in the few years following on the return of the
" Challenger " expedition in 1876, and the vast collections
of all kinds brought back from all the seas and remote
islands were being classified and sorted out into groups for
further examination in a house near the university, known as
JOHN MURRAY 75
the " Challenger " Office. Murray, as First Assistant on the
Staff, had charge of the office and the collections, and wel-
comed a few eager young workers who were wiUing to devote
free afternoons to helping in the multifarious work always in
progress.
There we first made acquaintance with the celebrated
new deep-sea " oozes," learnt to distinguish them under the
microscope, and how to demonstrate the silicious Radiolaria
hidden in the calcareous Globigerina ooze ; and there we
first saw such wonders of the deep as Holoj^us and Cephalo-
discus, and the extraordinary new abyssal Holothurians,
afterwards known as Elasipoda. These — now the common-
places of marine biology — were then revelations, and those
of us who witnessed the discoveries in-the-making will always
associate them with " Challenger Murray " as the arch-
magician of the laboratory — a sort of modern scientific
alchemist, bringing mysterious unknown things out of store-
bottles, and then showing us how to demonstrate their true
nature. I am afraid that we who are trying to inspire
students with the sacred fire at the present day have no such
wonders to show as those first-fruits in the early days of
deep-sea research. Then between times, while waiting for
a reaction, or after work, Murray would tell us stories of the
great expedition — how the first living Globigerina (Hastigerina
murrayi), seen in all its glory of vesicular protoplasm expanded
far beyond its tiny shell, was picked up in a teaspoon from a
small boat during a dead calm in mid-ocean ; and how the
naval officers wrote their names with their fingers in letters
of fire on the phosphorescing giant Pyrosoma (over four feet
long) as it lay on the deck at night ; how they " iced " their
champagne in the tropics by plunging the bottles into the
trawKul of ooze just brought up from the abyss, and still
retaining its abyssal low temperature ; and, finally, he would
sing us a most amusing song — we never knew whether he
had invented it or not — about a Chinaman eating a little
white dog.
76 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
A few years later, after Sir Wyville Thomson's death
in 1882, Murray had supreme control of both the collections
and the editing of the reports ; and of the " Office," by that
time moved to more commodious quarters at 32 Queen
Street, which was the scene of his labours for many years, and
where I for a time held the post of *' Assistant-Naturalist,"
and saw Murray practically every day.
When I first knew John Murray, although he was an older
man, we were really in one respect fellow-students, as we
attended together Professor Archibald Geikie's course on
geology. One very pleasant and not the least instructive
part of the course at that time was the series of geological
walks personally conducted by the professor, not merely
Saturday walks in the neighbourhood of Edinburgh, but also
longer expeditions of a week or ten days at the end of the
session, to localities of special geological interest farther
afield, such as the Highlands or the Island of Arran. I well
remember one such long excursion to the Grampian and the
Cairngorm Mountains and Speyside, when we had, as some-
what senior members of the party — in addition to Professor
Geikie — Dr. Benjamin Peach and Dr. John Home of the
Geological Survey, Dr. Aitken of the University Chemical
Department, Joseph Thomson the African explorer, and John
Murray of the " Challenger." The rest of us were ordinary
students of science, and all will realize how we enjoyed and
profited by the conversation of these senior men, how we
dogged their steps and hung upon their every word. All
who ever met John Murray will readily understand that
in the frequent discussions that took place between these
geologists and chemists, he always took a leading and forcible
part — he was nothing if not original in his views and vigorous
in his language.
The reader need not think that all this had nothing to do
with oceanography. It was very much otherwise. These
were all Edinburgh men deeply interested in the " Challenger"
results. On the long tramps there were hot discussions,
JOHN MURRAY 77
and wherever Murray was he was apt sooner or later to bring
a discussion round to some fundamental problem of the ocean
or the deposits forming on its floor, or to illustrate an argu-
ment by something he once saw in the Pacific, or the Ant-
arctic— or elsewhere. And, moreover, on the tops of these
ancient mountains of Scotland we could, and did, consider the
changes of continents and the supposed 'permanence of ocean
basins. I, for one, then came to realize that geology has
a close bearing on oceanography ; and I suspect that it
was on occasions like these, in keen discussion with geologists
and chemists, that Murray formulated some of the theories
as to past history of land and sea that he afterwards published
in the Summary volumes of the "Challenger " series.
Murray's first paper on his theory of coral reefs was read
before the Royal Society of Edinburgh on April 5, 1880,
and was pubHshed in the Proceedings, vol. x., p. 505. I well
remember the occasion, and also the rehearsal which took
place some days before in Sir Wyi^ille Thomson's house of
Bonsyde, when Murray read his MS. to a small but highly
critical audience, consisting of Sir Wyville Thomson, Sir
William Turner, and myself. For months before I had daily
seen Murray preparing the paper in a large room at the
" Challenger " Office, sitting at his notes in the centre of a
multitude of charts showing all the reefs and coral islands of
tropical seas — some of the charts spread out on tables, others
carpeting the fioor or stacked in piles and rolls — while he
measured and drew sections of the contours so as to see which
reefs supported his views and which presented difficulties.
His coral-reef theory was a direct outcome of his " Challenger "
work. The soundings had revealed the presence of volcanic
elevations, and the distribution of the calcareous deposits
showed how these might contribute to build up suitable plat-
forms as the foundation of reefs which might grow to the
surface independent of all sunken lands such as Darwin's
theory had required. It may be said that Murray demolished
the supposed need of vast oceanic subsidence, which had been
78 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
felt to be a difficulty by many geologists, and showed that all
types of coral reef could be accounted for without subsidence,
and even in some cases along with elevation of land.
Some of Murray's friends were disappointed that his
theory did not receive more serious and more immediate
attention, and the then Duke of Argyll wrote a couple of
articles with somewhat sensational titles — "A Great Lesson,**
in the Nineteenth Century for September, 1887, and *' A Con-
spiracy of Silence," in Nature for November 17, 1887 —
which gave rise to answers from some of the leading men of
science of the day, Huxley, Bonney, and Judd. Murray
went on his way undisturbed, collecting further evidence
and publishing at intervals further papers dealing with one
or another part of the large subject — such as his paper on the
structure and origin of coral reefs in the Proceedings of the
Royal Institution for 1888, his account of the Balfour Shoal
in the Coral Sea (1897), a submarine elevation in process of
being built up by calcareous deposits, his '* Distribution of
Pelagic Foraminifera at the surface and on the floor of the
Ocean " (1897), and a series of reports upon bottom deposits
from the " Blake " (1885) and many other expeditions.
Later on (1896-8) Murray took a lively interest in the
investigation, by a Committee of the British Association and
the Royal Society, of a selected typical case, the atoll of
Funafuti, one of the EUice Group, in the South Pacific. A
first expedition was sent out from this country under Pro-
fessor SoUas, and then two others from Australia, under
Professor Edgeworth David, of Sydney, and borings were
eventually obtained reaching an extreme depth of over 1,100
feet. The core was brought home and subjected to detailed
microscopic examination, with the extraordinary result that
the supporters of both rival theories find that it can be
interpreted so as to support their views. The Funafuti
boring cannot be said to have settled the matter. I beHeve
the verdict at the present time of most zoologists and geolo-
gists would be that whereas Darwin's beautiful theory would
JOHN MURRAY 79
certainly hold good for coral reefs growing on a sinking area,
Murray's explanation, based upon observations and ascer-
tained facts, probably applies to many of the " atolls " and
" barrier reefs " of tropical seas.
But I have been led on to these more recent times by his
paper of 1880. Let us now return to his work at the " Chal-
lenger " Office. During the last couple of years of Sir
Wyville Thomson's life, when he was more or less of an
invalid, Mr. John Murray (as he then was) came gradually to
take over more and more the complete charge of affairs at the
" Challenger " Office, including the distribution of the groups
of animals to specialists and the editing of the volumes of
reports. It was very fortunate for zoological science that
such a man was on the staff, ready to take up and carry out
to a successful issue the work that Sir Wyville Thomson was
no longer able to continue. Murray brought to the task a
complete knowledge of all that had to be done and how best
to do it, along with an extraordinary amount of zeal and
energy. During the years that followed, until the completion
of the work, he seemed to be doing several men's work. He
was in constant communication, both by correspondence and
personal visits, with the authors of reports in various parts
of Europe and America ; he had frequent dealings with the
Government departments concerned in the production of the
work ; and all the time he was also himself investigating some
of the great general problems of oceanography. It is diffi-
cult to imagine that any other man than John Murray could
have carried through all this mass of detailed and difficult
work and have produced the fifty thick quarto volumes within
twenty years of the return of the expedition. About five of
these large volumes are the result of Murray's own work.
Along with Staff-Commander T. H. Tizard, the late Professor
H. N. Moseley, and Mr. J. Y. Buchanan, he drew up the
general Narrative of the Expedition ; along with the late
Professor Renard he wrote the very important report upon
the Deep-sea Deposits (1891), generally recognized as the
80 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
authoritative work on the subject ; and finally, at the
conclusion of the series, he produced two volumes entitled
Summary of Results (1895), which give an elaborate historical
account of our knowledge of the sea and the development of
the science of oceanography from the earliest times to the
present day, and also, in addition to complete lists of all
the organisms at all the " Challenger " stations, includes a
discussion of many important matters, geological as well as
biological, relating to the origin of the present configuration
of land and water and of the distribution of the marine fauna
and flora of the globe.
It was characteristic of him to put forward, especially in
these Summary volumes, views which were novel and even
daring, which he believed he had evidence to support, but
which a less courageous man might have kept back or ex-
pressed more cautiously. He always had the courage of his
convictions. He admitted that he sometimes made mistakes,
but held that the man who never made a mistake never made
anything else. That was one of his ohiter dicta which were
flying about the " Challenger " Office, and stuck in my
impressionable youth. Let me quote here a passage from
one of his many letters that I have, and which refers to the
kind of views he afterwards published in his Summary. It is
dated September 13, 1894^ and is evidently in answer to
some question I had asked as to his views on the past history
of life in the sea.
"... I gave two papers to the R.S.E. and also said some-
thing about distribution at the British Association, but I
have not yet published anything. I am now considering
whether or not I will add a chapter to the last ' Challenger '
volume, giving my views.
" I believe the continental areas are very permanent, and
for instance Africa has separated marine faunas and floras
longer than the time when there was a very nearly similar
fauna at both poles. However, the faunas of the sea are now
arranged more according to zones of temperature than by
JOHN MURRAY 81
land barriers. The tropics extend polewards as we go down
in the geological formations till just before the Chalk there
was a universally warm sea — from equator to poles and from
top to bottom— say 80° F. Coral reefs once flourished at the
poles. These have now been driven to equatorial regions
where the temperature has remained nearly the above. The
animals which in the universal warm sea came to live in the
mud at a little depth, remained behind when cooling of the
poles commenced. These animals without pelagic free-
swimming larvae also descended to the deep sea as the waters
cooled. When the sea was all 70° or 80° F. the deep sea was
not inhabited. Polar animals and deep-sea animals have all
a direct development (so also fresh-water animals, also
derived from the deeper part of the shore estuarine universal
fauna).
" It is nonsense to suppose that while the earth was devel-
oping the sun has always been the same as now. It has been
contracting. In Chalk times it had a diameter seen from the
earth equal to an angle of 10° in the heavens. This would
give all the heat and light that is necessary for a great Car-
boniferous forest at the poles.
" You can tell me how much of this is d d nonsense.
" Yours sincerely, John Murray.
'' Fresh water fauna is much more archaic than deep-sea."
The following, from his little book The Ocean (p. 226), is
a good example of Murray's bold speculations : " We look
back on a past when the crust of the earth was in a molten
condition with a temperature of 400° F., when what is now
the water of the ocean existed as water vapour in the atmo-
sphere. We can imagine a future when the waters of the
ocean will, because of the low temperature, have become
solid rock, and over this will roll an ocean of liquid air about
forty feet in depth."
One of the theories which he supported, and which is not
now generally accepted, although he believed he had much
G
82 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
evidence in favour of it from the " Challenger " results, was
the theory of " Bipolarity," viz., that identical organisms
were found in Arctic and Antarctic seas and not in inter-
mediate waters, and that they represented the original marine
fauna which at some earHer period of the earth's history
inhabited all the oceans. This bipolarity hypothesis has
been vigorously controverted, and, like some other theories in
science which have had to be abandoned, was most useful
in its day as giving rise to much new investigation. A
good deal of evidence against Murray's views on bipolarity
has been accumulated as the result of recent Antarctic
expeditions.
But whether all his views are accepted or not, they are all
very stimulating and useful, and have given rise to much
investigation and discussion in the history of oceanography.
His five great volumes are a notable monument to his
memory. They and the other " Challenger " reports which
he edited record collectively the greatest advance in the
knowledge of our planet since the great geographical dis-
coveries of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries.
I referred in the last chapter to the subsidiary expeditions
(1880-2) for the purpose of investigating the very remark-
able conditions of temperature and fauna in the Faroe Channel.
We saw how Carpenter and Wyville Thomson, during
the preliminary investigations in the " Lightning " and
" Porcupine," had found that the Faroe Channel was divided
into two regions — a " cold " and a " warm " area. The
temperature of the water to a depth of 200 fathoms is much
the same in the two areas ; but in the cold area to the N.E.
the temperature is about 34° F. at 250 fathoms, and about
30° at the bottom in 640 fathoms, while in the warm area,
which stretches S.W. from the line of demarcation, the tem-
perature is 47° F. at 250 fathoms, and 42° at the bottom
in 600 fathoms. A consideration of the " Challenger "
temperatures led to the conclusion that the cold and warm
areas of the Faroe Channel must be separated by a very con-
JOHN MURRAY
83
siderable submarine ridge rising to within 200 or 300 fathoms
of the surface. Sir Wyville Thomson induced the Admiralty
to give the use of a surveying vessel for a few weeks for the
purpose of sounding the Faroe Channel with a view of testing
this opinion. That was the origin of the " Knight-Errant "
expedition in the summer of 1880, conducted by Captain
Tizard, R.N., and Mr. John Murray, under the general
direction of Sir Wyville Thomson, who remained at Storno-
way, in the Outer Hebrides, during the four traverses of the
ICE-
tANDd
TT
;' Deep Arctic Ocean \
0'
I
Faroes
.■•••■ /e,^/' .•
Deep
Atlantic
Ocean
Area, y' Thomson oo;
y yy Ridge ^.
Fjg, 3. — Sketch-chart showing the Wyville Thomson
THE Faroe Channel.
Ridge in
region in question. The results {Proc. Roy. Soc. Edin. for
1882, vol. xi) showed that a ridge-rising to within 300 fathoms
of the surface runs from the N.W. of Scotland by the island
of N. Rona to the southern end of the Faroe fishing-bank.
This was followed, after the death of Sir Wyville Thomson,
by a further expedition in H.M.S. " Triton," in the summer
of 1882, again under Murray and Tizard, which was very
fruitful of zoological results. The discovery of two very
different assemblages of animals living on the two sides of
84 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
the Wyville Thomson ridge — Arctic forms to the North and
Atlantic forms to the South — gives us a notable example
of the ejffect of the environment on the distribution of
marine forms of life. The results of the " Triton " ex-
pedition, written by a number of specialists, were pubHshed
in the Trans. Roy. Soc. Edin. during the next few years, and
attracted much attention to the subject.
Dr. Johan Hjort, the Norwegian oceanographer, referring
some thirty years later to these expeditions, said {The Depths
of the Ocean, 1912, p. 661) : "In the history of oceanic
research possibly nothing has contributed so much to the
awakening of this interest as the discovery of entirely different
animal communities living on either side of the Wyville
Thomson Ridge. Atlantic forms occur to the south and
Arctic forms to the north of the ridge, corresponding to the
very different thermal conditions on either side."
During these few years after the " Triton " expedition,
and when, in consequence of Sir Wyville Thomson's death,
he was given complete charge of the " Challenger " Office,
Murray came to occupy a more and more prominent position
in the scientific world of the North. When we remember that
his earlier fellow-workers and associates at the university
were such men as Robertson Smith the theologian, Dittmar
the chemist. Sir John Jackson the great contractor, and
Robert Louis Stevenson ; and his later friends, after the
return of the " Challenger," were such men as Agassiz,
Turner, Crum-Brown, Tait, Renard, Haeckel, Geikie, Blackie,
Masson, Buchan, and Lord McLaren, we can understand the
stimulating intellectual atmosphere he lived and worked
in, and to which he doubtless contributed as much as he
received.
We now come to a period of great local scientific activity,
when Murray exercised a notable influence in the university
scientific circle and took a leading part in every new move-
ment. He was a prominent member of the Royal Society of
Edinburgh, and of the Scottish Meteorological and Geo-
JOHN IVIURRAY 85
graphical Societies; he helped to establish the Observatory on
the summit of Ben Nevis ; and in 1884, along with his friend,
Robert Irvine, of Caroline Park, on the shores of the Firth of
Forth, he acquired the lease of an old sandstone quarry near
Granton, into which the sea had burst some thirty years before,
drowning the quarry and leaving it as a land-locked sheet of
sheltered deep water which rose and fell with every tide.
Here he moored a large canal barge, upon which he had built
a wooden house, divided into chemical and biological labora-
tories, and which, for obvious reasons, he named " The Ark."
Two little Norwegian skiffs were attached to " The Ark,"
one for the chemists and the other for the biologists, and on
the opening day Dr. Hugh Robert Mill and I were invited to
name them. He called his '' The Asymptote," and I named
the other " Appendicularia." Murray ridiculed our preten-
tious names, and said that in a few days the one would
probably be called " the Simmie," or " the Tottie," and the
other "Dick."
This floating biological station, after some years' work at
Granton, was towed through the Forth and Clyde Canal to
Millport, on the Cumbrae island, and there it was beached and
became an annex of the Millport biological station. During
the period when " The Ark " was at Granton, and later,
Murray and Irvine turned out a good deal of joint work on the
chemistry of the secretion of carbonate of lime by marine
organisms, on the solution of carbonate of lime by the carbon-
dioxide in sea-water, and on the chemical changes taking
place in muds and other deposits on the sea bottom.
But his chief scientific work at this time and for years
afterwards was the joint investigation at the " Challenger "
Ofiice of the enormous series of deposits (said to be over
12,000) which he and the Abbe Renard had accumulated
from many expeditions and all seas. When one entered the
little laboratory on the top floor of 32 Queen Street, after
penetrating the dense cloud of tobacco smoke, the first thing
one heard, rather than saw, was John Murray issuing some
86 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
order or announcing some result ; the next was the figure of
the portly Abbe waving a courteous greeting with his per-
petual cigar. Then there were the two assistants, Mr. F.
Pearcey, who had himself, as a boy, taken part in the great
expedition, and had been retained as assistant curator of the
collections at the " Challenger " Office ; and Mr. James
Chumley, the secretary. Murray and Renard were hard at
work at the microscope or at chemical reactions in test-tubes
over Bunsen burners, Pearcey was preparing fresh samples
to be examined, and Chumley was noting down results.
There has probably never been in recent years such a small
laboratory, so poorly equipped, which has turned out such
epoch-making results. Everything absolutely essential was
there, but nothing in the least extravagant. The place
looked, with its plain boards and deal tables and sinks,
more like an overcrowded scullery than an oceanographic
laboratory.
But even in his busiest years at the " Challenger " Office
Murray never gave up wholly his work at sea. He was a
good hand at " roughing it " and making the best of circum-
stances, and no one could have had a greater appreciation of
the open-air life. The practical work that he did, more or
less periodically all the year round, on the west coast of
Scotland, from his little yacht " Medusa," is a good example
of careful planning and resolute carrying out.
It seems that while working at the results of the " Chal-
lenger " and other deep-sea expeditions, it occurred to
Murray that for the purpose of comparison a detailed ex-
amination of the physical and biological conditions in the
fjord-like sea-lochs of the West of Scotland might yield valu-
able information. He accordingly built a small steam-yacht
of about 38 tons, called the " Medusa," fitted up with all
necessary apparatus for dredging and trawhng and for taking
deep-sea temperatures and other hydrographic observations.
This little vessel was, in fact, fully equipped for oceano-
graphical investigations in the neighbourhood of land, and
JOHN MURRAY 87
during the years 1884 to 1892 she was almost contmuously
engaged in exploring the deep sea-lochs of the Western High-
lands. Various younger scientific men, such as Dr. W. E.
Hoyle and Dr. H. R. Mill, were associated with Murray in
this work ; considerable collections were made, some of
which are now in the British Museum, and many scientific
papers contributed to various journals have resulted from the
periodic cruises of the " Medusa." One of the most notable
of these is H. R. Mill's detailed description of the oceano-
graphic characters of the Clyde sea-area (1891-4). Another
result was the discovery in the deeper waters of Loch Etive
and Upper Loch Fyne of the remnants of an Arctic fauna —
" boreal outliers " of Edward Forbes.
From time to time during these researches in the sea -lochs
the " Medusa " penetrated to the fresh- water lochs, such as
Loch Lochie and Loch Ness, which are united by the Cale-
donian Canal, and Murray was greatly impressed by the
differences in the physical and biological conditions between
the salt and the fresh -water lochs. This observation seems
to have led to another of Murray's scientific activities, namely,
the bathymetrical survey of the fresh-water lochs of Scotland,
undertaken between the years 1897 and 1909. It was
already known that, like some of the salt-water fjords outside,
certain of these fresh -water lochs are of surprising depth.
For example, 175 fathoms had been recorded by Buchanan
in Loch Morar, and Murray, subsequently running a line
of soundings along this loch, found at one spot a depth of
180 fathoms. No such depth is found in the sea outside on
the continental shelf.
The survey was undertaken at first in collaboration with
his young friend, Mr. Frederick P. Pullar, who was drowned
in a gallant attempt to save the lives of others in a skating
accident on Loch Airthrey in 1901. The results of the Lake
Survey were pubHshed in a series of six volumes (Edinburgh,
1910), edited by Sir John Murray and Mr. Lawrence Pullar,
and dedicated to the memory of Mr. F. P. Pullar, who had
88 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
done much to initiate and promote the investigation in its
earlier stages.
The work dealt with the determination of the depths of
the lakes and of the general form of the basins they occupy,
along with observations in other branches of limnography
from the topographical, geological, physical, chemical, and
biological points of view. Some important novel investiga-
tions, such as those on the temperature seiche and variations
in the viscosity of the water with temperature, help to throw
light on some oceanographical problems. In fact, the whole
investigation, comprising 60,000 soundings taken in 562
lakes, resulted in very substantial contributions to know-
ledge, and is probably the most complete accoimt of the
depths and other physical features of lakes that has been
published in any country.
It cannot be said that Murray ever finished his work on
the west coast of Scotland, and I have evidence in a letter
that he wrote to me late in life that he still thought of return-
ing to the work. The passage is worth quoting, both for its
scientific interest and for the kindly consideration which it
shows. It is dated May 20, 1913, less than a year before
his death : —
"... I am seriously thinking of overhauling all the
* Medusa ' work on the west coast, and repeating a lot of
these old observations for two years or more ; then pub-
lishing a book on the lochs of the west coast. Would that in
any way interfere with your work ? I am being pressed by
the Clyde people to do something of the kind.
" Could I afford it at present, I would be off to the Pacific
in a Diesel-engined ship ! ! " . . .
During the years when he was working at the " Challenger '*
results and subsequently Murray published many papers
in the Geographical Journal and in the Scottish GeograjMcal
Magazine and elsewhere, which deal with world-wide ques-
tions in oceanography or in physical geography, such as the
annual rainfall of the globe and its relation to the discharge
JOHN MURRAY 89
of rivers, the effects of winds on the distribution of tempera-
ture in lochs, the annual range of temperature in the surface
waters of the ocean, and the temperature of the floor of the
ocean, on the height of the land and the depth of the ocean
(1888), and on the depths, temperatures, and marine deposits
of the South Pacific Ocean (1906).
In 1897 Dr. John Murray (as he then was) formally opened
the present Biological Station at IVIillport and the associated
Robertson Museum, and delivered an address on the marine
biology of the Clyde district. He continued to take a lively
interest in the affairs of this West Coast Biological Station,
and frequently looked in there with scientific friends when
on his cruises in the ^' Medusa." I recollect, for example, an
occasion when, after dredging in Loch Fyne, we ran to Mill-
port for the night, and the party included Canon Norman,
old Dr. David Robertson, Professor Haeckel, and Mr. Isaac
Thompson. He frequently had foreign men of science as
his guests, and was, I think, especially friendly with the
Scandinavians, such as Nansen, Hjort, Otto Pettersson the
Swede, and C. G. Joh. Petersen the Dane.
Murray's oceanographic work was not limited to any
particular region or special series of problems, but was world-
wide, both in extent and subject-matter. He was a great
traveller, and had probably personally explored more of the
oceanic waters of the globe than any other man. He had
ranged from Spitzbergen in the North to the Antarctic Ice-
barrier, dredging, trawling, tow-netting, and sampling the
waters and bottom deposits in every possible way. Even
when travelling as an ordinary passenger on a Hner, he would
engage emigrants in the steerage to pump water daily from
the sea through his silk nets, or would arrange with a bath-
steward to let the sea-water tap run through his net day and
night in order that he might have living plankton to examine.
Murray was not only an investigator of special problems,
but we owe to him much sjnithetic work, in which he gathered
together the results of many observations and put them in
90 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
the form of short conclusions or statistical statements. Some
of these were published in the form of useful maps and charts,
such, for example, as the map showing the 57 " deeps," or
parts of the ocean in which soundings of over 3,000 fathoms
have been obtained. Most of these deeps (32) are in the
Pacific, including the deepest soundings of all, which extend
down to over six English miles.
At the meeting of the British Association held at Ipswich
in September, 1895, a meeting of contributors to the " Chal-
lenger " reports was held, at which the then President of
the Zoological Section (W. A. Herdman) presided, and about
fifty biologists or oceanographers either attended or wrote
expressing their concurrence in the objects of the meeting.
It was then proposed and resolved " that this meeting of
those who have taken part in the production of the * Chal-
lenger * reports agrees to signalize the completion of the
series by offering congratulations in some appropriate form
to Dr. John Murray." Eventually this congratulatory
offering took the form of an address in an album, containing
the portraits and autographs of all the " Challenger "
workers, with an illuminated cover and dedicatory design by
Walter Crane. This book was afterwards reproduced for the
contributors in the form of a thin quarto volume, which
forms a very interesting record of the completion of the work
connected with the " Challenger " expedition.
Dr. Murray himself provided a very pleasing memento of
the conclusion of the great work by having a handsome
medal designed and struck, an example of which was pre-
sented to each of the authors of " Challenger " reports. The
medal, in a bronze alloy, measures 75 mm. in diameter, and
shows on the obverse the head of Minerva encircled by mer-
maids, a dolphin, and Neptune holding in his left hand the
trident, and in his right the naturalist's dredge, with the
legend, " Voyage of H.M.S. ' Challenger,' 1872-76 " ; and on
the reverse an armoured knight casting down his gauntlet in
challenge to the waters— being the crest of H.M.S. " Chal-
JOHN MURRAY 91
lenger " — with the legend, " Report on the scientific results
of the ' Challenger ' Expedition, 1886-95." The name of the
recipient of the medal is engraved on the lower margin.
After Sir Wyville Thomson's death, when Murray came
to be recognized by the scientific world as the moving spirit
in connection with all the " Challenger " work, and especially
when the great series of publications was completed, honours
of all kinds came pouring in upon him — for which he probably
cared little. He was an honorary doctor of many univer-
sities, he was awarded the " prix Cuvier " medal by the Paris
Academy of Sciences, and he was created K.C.B. in 1898. He
gave the Lowell lectures at Boston in 1899, and again in 191 1.
He was chief British delegate at the International Congress
for the Exploration of the Sea, at Stockholm, in 1899. He
was President of the Geographical Section of the British
Association in the same year ; and it is an open secret that
he might have been President of the Association had he been
able to undertake it. He was approached no less than three
times in connection with three different meetings (two of them
overseas meetings, at which it was felt that a man of world-
wide associations, such as Murray, would be singularly appro-
priate), but after some hesitation and careful consideration,
he felt that circumstances compelled him to decline the
honour. Some of his letters to me, from which I quote a few
passages, allude to these offers.
This is a letter from Mentone, on April 1, 1904, referring
to the first of these occasions : —
" . . . At first, I said it was impossible to alter our family
and other arrangements so as to go to South Africa. . . .
To my astonishment, my wife seems taken with the idea of
going to the Cape, and says it is by no means impossible to
alter our arrangements. I've promised to think over the
matter for a week. I'll let you know definitely a day or two
after I reach Edinburgh.
" I feel that you are predisposed to honour me, but I also
feel I have given the Association very little of my attention :
92 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
others have more claims on the honour. I don't care a bit
about it. If I consult my own feelings, I would much rather
have nothing to do with it. My wife suggests there may be
some question of duty. Perhaps ? I had not heard you had
taken on the General Secretaryship." . . .
In a letter from Boston, U.S.A., he writes on March 20,
1911:—
"... On Saturday I received your letter of the
3rd March. By same post had letters from Geikie and
Bonney. Had I been at home, I would of course have seen
you before sending any reply, but I am not likely to be in
England before June.
"... To-morrow I deliver the Agassiz address at
Harvard. I came over for that address, but have been let in
for the Lowell lectures (eight) and addresses here [Boston],
Princeton, New York, and Washington. We go to Wash-
ington next month. . . .
" During the last two days I've had frequent deliberations
with my wife and daughter, who are with me, and the only
way out seemed to be to decline the nomination. For some
time past I have been planning a cruise as far as the Pacific
during 1912 and 1913, and I have made a good many business
and domestic arrangements with that object in view. It
must take place in these years or not at all, and if my health
be good I cannot well withdraw.
" I know your enthusiastic nature and your too favourable
opinion of my poor labours. I know you like to do me
honour. For these reasons I very much regret the nature of
the cables I have just sent off to you, Bonney, and Geikie. I
am anxious to do anything to assist the progress of oceano-
graphy, but I fear my presidentship of the British Association
would not do much in that direction. However, it is very
good and nice of you to say you think it would. I find many
enthusiastic young workers here, and I believe there will Hkely
be a ship fitted out for a deep-sea expedition in 1912. They
wish to consult me at Washington and New York about this.
JOHN MURRAY 93
Townsend is now away in the ' Albatross,' off the Pacific
coast. They invited me to go with them, also to go to the
Tortugas Station, where some very interesting work is
going on." . . .
This f mother letter refers to the same occasion. It is from
Washington, D.C., April 19, 1911 :—
"... I duly received your letter of the 20th. I have
not replied at once, especially as I had written to you when
I sent off my cable, and I had also cabled and written to
Bonney and Geikie. I have not changed my mind about the
presidency. I cannot see my way to accept. I am very
sorry, for I would willingly do very much to please you and
my other friends on the Council. I also believe that some
scientific man less known locally would be more agreeable to
the Dundee people.
*' You will see from the enclosed cutting that they have
been doing us much honour here. There was a dinner in our
honour last week, about seventy-five scientific men here and
their wives. The British Ambassador and his wife were
present. Taft accepted, but sent an excuse at the last .
minute.
*'.... We go to Philadelphia to-morrow to meetings of
Philadelphia Academy. Then to New York. Osborn is to
have 14 millionaires to hear me at the Museum as to what they
should do for the study of the Ocean ! ! May it have some
effect !
" On the 26th we start for the West to see rocks and mines
in Nevada. We sail from Boston on the 30th May.
" With my very best thanks to you for all your endeavours
to honour me, and to cultivate an interest in oceanography."
The following letter of November 12, 1912, refers to the
final occasion. He was killed before the meeting in question
took place : —
"... I shall not refuse at once. I'll consult with my
wife. All the same, I do not think it is the sort of thing for
a man over seventy. I'm very well just now — have been for
94 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
the past three months shooting over the moors nearly every
day ! Some people say even that I am a wonder ! but who
can tell what I'll be like in two years. Men over seventy
years are likely to break down, then what a nuisance I would
be to every one !
" I would, of course, appreciate the honour, but honours
are not worth much to an old man. The only question would
be, a real service to Science, and would it be a duty. At my
age it can hardly be a duty. I have no message to give to the
world ! ! I honestly think some young scientific man would
do the trick very much better. I'll consider it. I'll be in
London, Piccadilly Hotel, the first ten days of December, and
could perhaps see you.
" I really very much appreciate your desire to honour
me. It is really very good of you. It is not quite out of the
possible that I may be in the Pacific in 1914 in a boat of my
own. I would have been there now had the cost not been
much greater than I, at first, calculated."
At the inauguration of the new Zoological Laboratories
of the University of Liverpool in November, 1905, Sir John
Murray was one of the honoured guests of the university,
and after the formal opening by the Earl of Onslow, Sir John
gave a short address upon oceanography, the first lecture to
be delivered in the zoology lecture theatre of the university.
A few years later, in 1907, the university conferred upon him
the honorary degree of Doctor of Science.
We now come to Sir John Murray's last great scientific
expedition — a four months' cruise in the North Atlantic, in
the summer of 1910 — a very notable achievement for a man
in his seventieth year. The investigating steamer " Michael
Sars " was built by the Norwegian Government in 1900, on
the lines of a large high-class trawler of about 226 tons, but
specially fitted out for scientific work under the direction of
Murray's friend. Dr. Johan Hjort. At Murray's request
this vessel was lent, with her crew and equipment, by the
PLATE VI.
SiK John Murray.
JOHN MURRAY 95
Norwegian Government for the North Atlantic cruise, Sir
John Murray undertaking to pay all the expenses. The
scientific reports on the expedition will be published in a
series of volumes by the Bergen Museum ; but the more
general results have appeared in popular form in a volume
entitled The Depths of the Ocean (Macmillan, 1912), by
Murray and Hjort, with contributions by several other
naturalists, which gives a condensed account of the modern
science of oceanography, with special chapters on the latest
discoveries, based largely upon the experiences of this North
Atlantic cruise taken along with the previous cruises of the
" Michael Sars " in the Norwegian seas.
Amongst noteworthy matters that are discussed in this
volume we find : —
(1) Methods of plankton collecting, including the towing
of as many as ten large horizontal nets, at various depths,
simultaneously. The pelagic plants collected, either in the
nets or by centrifuging the water, are discussed in a notable
chapter by Gran.
(2) The " Mud-line," a favourite subject with Murray, as
being the great feeding-ground of the ocean. He places it at
an average depth of 100 fathoms, on the edge of the " Con-
tinental-shelf," at the top of the " Continental-slope," which
descends more or less precipitately to the floor of the Atlantic
at an average depth of 2,000 fathoms. We know from
Murray's careful estimations that, if all the elevations of the
globe were filled into the depressions, we should have a
smooth sphere covered by an ocean 1,450 fathoms deep.
The floor of this ocean is the " mean sphere level."
(3) Dr. Helland-Hansen, the physicist on board the
" Michael Sars," had devised a new form of photometer,
which registered light as far down as 500 fathoms in the
Sargasso Sea. At between 800 and 900 fathoms, however,
no trace of light was registered on the photographic plates,
even after two hours' exposure. The observations show that
light in considerable quantity penetrates to a depth of at
96 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
least 1,000 metres (547 fathoms), which is much deeper than
had been previously supposed. It was shown that the red
rays of light are those that disappear first, and the ultra
violet are those that penetrate most deeply.
(4) A special study was made on the " Michael Sars "
of the characteristic colour of the fishes in various zones of
depth. In the superficial layers of the ocean small colourless
or transparent forms abound, forming a part of the well-
known pelagic fauna. Below this, at an average depth of
about 200 fathoms, are found fishes of a silvery and greyish
hue, along with red-coloured Crustaceans. At depths of
from 500 fathoms downwards black fishes make their appear-
ance, still associated with red Crustaceans and other strongly
coloured red, brown, or black Invertebrates. This chapter
is illustrated by some beautiful coloured plates of the fishes.
(5) Lastly, the " Michael Sars " got important evidence
in support of the view that the fresh-water eel spawns south
of the Azores, and that the larvae are carried by currents
back to the coasts of North-west Europe.
In 1 9 1 3 Murray published in the Home University Library a
small book of about 250 pages, entitled The Ocean : A General
Account of the Science of the Sea, which is undoubtedly the
most concise and accurate and, so far as is possible within its
small compass, complete account that has yet appeared of
all that pertains to the scientific investigation of the sea.
It is written in simple language for the general reader, and is
probably the best introduction to oceanography that can be
recommended to the junior student or the intelligent non-
specialist inquirer who desires information merely as a matter
of general culture. It deals with the history, methods, and
instruments of marine research, the depths and physical
characters of the ocean, the circulation of the waters, life in
the ocean, submarine deposits, and finally the nature and
relations of the various " Geospheres " that constitute the
globe. Coloured maps and plates illustrate depths, salinities,
temperatures, currents, deposits, and many of the charac-
JOHN MURRAY 97
teristic plants and animals of the plankton and of the
" oozes." As Murray's final contribution to science it is an
appropriate summary of his life-work, and will do much to
spread the knowledge of his discoveries and to make his
name widely known amongst intelligent readers of popular
works on science.
If I try now to give a personal impression of John Murray
as I remember him in earlier life, I picture him as a short,
thick-set, broad-shouldered man, with a finely shaped head
and very forcible -looking blue eyes under rather shaggy
eyebrows. His hair was fair, somewhat reddish on the
whiskers and moustache. Later in life, when his hair was
turning white, he wore a closely- clipped beard. It was a
strong, determined-looking face, with those arresting eyes,
making him a noticeable and dominant figure in any
assembly. But the eyes could dance with fun on occasions,
and his good Scot's tongue was kindly as well as outspoken.
He remained sturdy and energetic to the last, although he was
seventy-three years of age a few days before the motor
accident in which he was instantaneously killed on March 16,
1914.
John Murray was a man of upright character and of down-
right speech. He was apt to tell you what he thought of you,
or anyone else, in plain and emphatic language without fear
or favour. Some people of more conventional habits may
have been shocked or offended at times ; but the better one
knew him the more one came to appreciate and admire
his transparent honesty of thought and speech, his most
uncommon " common sense," his purity of motive and
directness of purpose, and his genuine kindness and good-
heartedness, especially to all the young scientific men who
worked with or under him, and whom he in large measure
trained. He was absolutely free from all guile and humbug
of any kind, and had no sympathy with intrigue or vacillation.
I may appropriately conclude this short account of John
H
98 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
Murray's life and work with a few sentences quoted from an
appreciation (Nature, 1914, p. 89) by his old friend, and
former teacher. Sir Archibald Geikie : —
" Sir John Murray's devotion to science and his sagacity
in following out the branches of inquiry which he resolved to
pursue, were not more conspicuous than his warm sympathy
with every line of investigation that seemed to promise
further discoveries. He was an eminently broad-minded
naturalist to whom the whole wide domain of nature was of
interest. Full of originality and suggestiveness, he not only
struck out into new paths for himself, but pointed them out
to others, especially to younger men, whom he encouraged
and assisted. His genial nature, his sense of humour, his
generous helpfulness, and a certain delightful boyishness
which he retained to the last, endeared him to a wide
circle of friends, who will long miss his kindly and cheery
presence."
CHAPTER V
LOUIS AND ALEXANDER AGASSIZ AND
AMERICAN EXPLORATIONS
The " Challenger " expedition was a national undertaking,
and it was followed in the last quarter of the nineteenth
century by a number of other less extensive but still
important national explorations, such as the " Tusca-
rora " (United States), " Travailleur " and " Talisman "
(French), "National" and " Valdivia " (German), " Vettor
Pisani "(ItaUan), " IngoK " (Danish), and " Siboga " (Dutch),
all of which supplemented in one direction or another the
fundamental discoveries of the British expedition.
In addition to these, various unofficial explorations, due
to the enterprise of private oceanographers, began to make
notable contributions to science, and of these men two may
be selected as outstanding examples, on account of the extent
and importance of their work and of their personal devotion
to the subject ; these two are Alexander Agassiz, of the United
States, and H.S.H. Albert I, Prince of Monaco.
There are two Agassizs well known in the history of
science, Louis and Alexander, father and son, and both made
contributions to our knowledge of the sea. It is true that
Louis Agassiz is better known from his other work in zoology
and from his fame as a teacher of natural science at Har-
vard ; but in addition to his pioneer marine work on the
eastern coasts of the United States, we must remember the
influence he exercised upon his assistants and students,
including his distinguished son, and the inspiration and
direction he gave to marine biological exploration in the
99
100 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
land of his adoption. Consequently, I have no hesitation in
claiming him also as a pioneer of oceanography.
It has been said of the two Agassizs that the father and
son were very unlike in character and essential nature, and
that is no doubt true to some extent. Louis was an enthu-
siast and was pre-eminently a great teacher and public
expositor. Alexander was a quiet, reserved man, the
typical student and investigator, who did not care for teach-
ing and avoided publicity. But still, in considering their
lives and the work they did, it is possible to trace some
common characteristics. Both were great collectors all
their lives, and between them they built up at Harvard a
notable museum of an original character. Both also were
indefatigable in seeking out the truths of nature, in accumu-
lating facts rather than in spinning theories. Louis, in
speaking of Oken and the nature-philosophers of his student
days in Germany, who were " constructing the universe out
of their own brains," said, " He is the truest student of
nature who, while seeking the solution of these great pro-
blems, admits that the only true scientific system must be
one in which the thought, the intellectual structure, rises out
of and is based upon facts " ; while Alexander, half a century
later, speaking of theories of coral reefs, said, " I am glad
that I always stuck to writing what I saw in each group and
explaining what I saw as best I could, without trying all the
time to have an all-embracing theory " ; and Murray, in the
same connection, remarks of him, '' He professed never to
engage in discussions except where it was possible to verify
one's conclusions by an appeal to observation or experi-
ment." Thus we see the same dependence upon facts and
avoidance of theories in both men.
Louis Agassiz, a Swiss, was born in 1807 in a small village,
near Neuchatel, in the Canton de Vaud. His education
consisted first of a school at Lausanne, then at the Medical
School of Zurich, and finally the universities of Heidelberg
and Munich, where, like Edward Forbes at Edinburgh, he
LOUIS AGASSIZ 101
became a leader of a body, called the " Small Academy," of
the more intellectual of his fellow-students, several of whom
became distinguished scientific men afterwards, but who at
that time were known in their own society by nicknames such
as " MoUuscus," *' Cyprinus," '' Rhubarb," etc. While still
a student he started original investigations on the fresh-
water fishes of Central Europe and on the fishes collected by
Martins and Spix in Brazil ; and before he was twenty years
of age he had already engaged two young artists to draw his
specimens and another assistant to help him in dissecting
them, and he kept up that practice throughout all his earlier
struggling years as a student and a young scientific man in
Europe. One of his artists, called Dinkel, who remained
with him for about sixteen years, generally shared his room,
and we are told that they used the same vessel to make their
coffee in the morning, to contain specimens in process of
maceration as skeletons during the remainder of the day,
and then, being temporarily emptied of its scientific contents,
to make tea in for their evening meal. Professor Agassiz's
widow, writing of these early days, says : ^ " He was of frugal
personal habits ; at this very time, when he was keeping
two or three artists on his slender means, he made his own
breakfast in his room, and dined for a few cents a day at the
cheapest eating-houses. But where science was concerned,
the only economy he recognized, either in youth or old age,
was that of an expenditure as bold as it was carefully
considered." On one vacation, when he proposed to come
home to the small Swiss parsonage, at that time much
overcrowded because of the impending marriage of one of his
sisters, he wrote telling them of all the things he was going to
bring with him for work during the vacation, collections and
so on, including one of his artists, to which his father writes
back : " By all means bring them all except your painter.''
But when he arrived the painter was with him, and had to
be accommodated somehow.
^ Louis Agassiz, edited by Elizabeth Gary Agassiz, London, 1885.
102 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
Agassiz himself, talking of these days, said : "I kept
always one and sometimes two artists in my pay ; it was
not easy, with an allowance of $250 (£50) a year, but they
were even poorer than I, and so we managed to get along
together. My microscope I had earned by writing." In
this way he took both a Ph.D. and an M.D. degree, and at the
same time produced important treatises on both fresh-water
and fossil fishes, which brought him into correspondence
with the great French comparative anatomist Cuvier, with
Humboldt and others.
In 1832, when twenty-five years of age, he was appointed
to a newly established Chair of Natural History at Neuchatel,
the salary of which was about £64 a year! On this, the
following year he married the sister of one of his fellow-
students, and his wife, we are told, made some of the best
drawings which illustrate his celebrated work on fossil
fishes. His grandson, G. R. Agassiz,^ writes : " The salary of
Louis Agassiz was entirely insufficient to support his family
and publish his scientific works. By 1846 he had exhausted
the resources of his relatives, friends, and, indeed, the entire
little community of Neuchatel, who came generously to his
assistance. He gladly, therefore, accepted a subsidy from
the Prussian Crown, obtained through the influence of
Humboldt, to make a scientific exploration in the United
States." This was the turning-point of his life, and opened
up a career of extraordinary success. Previous to migrating
to the United States, he had, however, made important visits
to Paris, where he was befriended by the great comparative
anatomist, Cuvier, then nearing the end of his career, and
Humboldt, the great traveller ; and to England, where he
met Lyell, Buckland, Sedgwick, and other geologists, and
incidentally received a grant from the British Association
towards the expenses of the interesting work which he, with
some of his friends and students, had started on the nature,
^ Letters and Recollections of Alexander Agassiz, edited by
G. R. Agassiz, London, 1913.
LOUIS AGASSIZ 103
movements, and former extension of the glaciers in Switzer-
land.
In 1846 he went to America, leaving his son Alexander at
school in Switzerland, and his wife and two young daughters
with her brother, who was then a professor at Karlsruhe. He
gave a course of Lowell lectures at Boston, and became at once
a tremendous success as a popular expositor of all the natural
history sciences and a great influence, not merely in the
university circle at Harvard and amongst the intellectuals of
Boston, but even amongst the hard-headed New England
business men. He was extraordinarily enthusiastic and
energetic, not merely in giving courses of lectures at various
centres in the Eastern States, but also in making important
scientific investigations wherever he went, beginning with
the study of successive upheavals of the coast near Boston,
the geographical distribution of marine animals and their
relation to the Tertiary fossils, and the investigation of many
groups of animals both on land and sea.
From 1847 onwards the hospitality of the U.S. Coast
Survey vessels seems to have been constantly open to him,
and thus his influence on oceanography began. Under no
other Government probably could he have had opportunities
so valuable to a naturalist, and probably no Government ever
got a better return for friendly co-operation with men of
science. Louis Agassiz had intended merely to pay a visit
to the States, give his Lowell lectures, and then return to
Switzerland, but one engagement at Boston led to another, to
delay his return. The following year, 1848, he was offered a
newly established Chair of Natural History at Harvard, at a
salary of £300, and in that post he remained to the end of his
days. He began to accumulate what is now the celebrated
Museum of Comparative Zoology, housed at first in an old
wooden shanty set on piles on the bank of the Charles river,
and it was not until ten or twelve years later that the
university commenced to build for him the present great
University Museum at Cambridge, Massachusetts, which
104 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
displays the wonderful collections made by both Louis and
Alexander Agassiz as the result of their many expeditions.
In the meantime his wife in Switzerland had died, and
shortly afterwards he brought his son Alexander, then a
youth of thirteen, to join him at Boston. His grandson,
writing of this time, says : " Professor Agassiz's little house
in Oxford Street must surely have seemed a strange home to
the small foreigner. The household, besides the father,
consisted of a dear old artist, Mr. Burkhardt, a young
Harvard student, Mr. Edward King, an old Swiss minister
called ' Papa Christinat,' who was supposed to look after the
housekeeping, a bear, some eagles, a crocodile, a few snakes,
and sundry other live stock. These last enlivened the home
life in various ways. Sometimes there was a wild chase to
capture the eagles, or a hunt to discover in what corner of the
house the snakes had hidden themselves. Once, when there
was a large party at dinner, an uncertain and heavy tread
was heard upon the cellar stairs, and Bruin, having broken
his chain, and broached a cask of wine, lurched into the
room." A year afterwards, however, Agassiz married
Elizabeth Gary, of Boston, who seems to have reduced chaos
to order and taken charge of the erratic professor and his
children and eventually the grandchildren, in the most
admirable and loving manner, which Alexander Agassiz
repaid by taking affectionate care of her for many years
after his father's death.
Louis Agassiz now became an oceanographer. His
important investigation of the Florida Reefs and Keys
on behaK of the Coast Survey took place in 1851. The
peninsula of Florida he made out to be formed by a succes-
sion of concentric reefs, separated by deep channels, the
older of which have become silted up to form the well-
known " Everglades " ; while the Tortugas show a real atoll,
but formed without the remotest indication of subsidence.
He remarks further in his report that " one of the most
remarkable peculiarities of the rocks in the reefs of the
LOUIS AGASSIZ 105
Tortugas consists in their composition ; they are chiefly
made up of coralUnes, limestone algae, and, to a small extent
only, of real corals." This is a matter which has been
rediscovered since by many investigators of coral reefs in
various parts of the world, but Louis Agassiz was, I think,
the first to notice the important fact that so-called coral
reefs are not always formed of coral.
At this time, about 1855, we a,ie told {Letters, d;c., of Alex-
ander Agassiz) that " his father's affairs, notwithstanding the
fostering care of the son, were in a more than usually deplor-
able muddle shortly after Alexander Agassiz left college.
Louis Agassiz possessed but a hazy idea of the value of a
dollar, and the modest funds of the household budget had
an alarming way of converting themselves into alcohoUc
specimens at the most inopportune moments." So in order
to retrieve the family fortunes, Mrs. Agassiz and her stepson
Alexander resolved to start a school for girls in the upper
part of their house at Harvard, which at once became an
unqualified success. " It became the girls' school of its day ;
special omnibuses brought the pupils out from Boston ;
while parents in other parts of the country made arrange-
ments for their daughters to live in the neighbourhood, that
they might enjoy its special advantages." Agassiz himseK
gave a daily lecture to some sixty or seventy girls, and
remarked enthusiastically : " We will teach the girls every-
thing but mathematics, and the poor things can learn that
almost anywhere else." His son, however, who was an
excellent mathematician, attended efficiently, no doubt, to
that branch of their education. This school flourished for
about eight years and was then closed, as the improved
finances of the family made it no longer necessary.
About 1860 Harvard commenced the building of what is
now the magnificent Museum of Comparative Zoology, for the
purpose of containing Professor Agassiz 's rapidly increasing
collections. In the first endowment given for this purpose
it was stated as a condition that the museum was to be called
106 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
by no other name than the " Museum of Comparative
Zoology," but this decision, although officially adhered to,
has been defeated by popular acclaim, as the museum is
known in Harvard, and probably amongst most scientific
men all over the world, as the " Agassiz " museum.
In 1865 Louis Agassiz organized an important expedition
to Brazil, largely in the interests of the museum, and in 1870,
along with his friend Count de Pourtales, who had followed
him from Europe, he undertook his last cruise in the Coast
Survey steamer " Bibb," on which he conducted important
deep-sea surveying and dredging in the region of the West
Indies, and amongst other oceanographic results pronounced
in favour of the permanence of the great ocean basins. In
the following year, 1871-2, he conducted an extensive
dredging cruise on the " Hassler " round the whole of the
South American coast from Florida to San Francisco.
Incidentally, it may be remarked that some of their deepest
and possibly most interesting hauls were lost, it is said, through
the rottenness of the towing-ropes due to damp. Alexander
Agassiz, in the many expeditions in which he continued and
extended the work of his father, avoided this difficulty by
introducing the use of wire rope for dredging purposes.
We now come to the last episode in the life of the old
professor. In 1873 a New York merchant, Mr. John
Anderson, reading accidentally a report in an evening paper
of an address by Agassiz setting forth the advantages that
would result in the training of young biologists from the
establishment of a marine laboratory, wrote offering for the
purpose the island of Penikese, at the mouth of Buzzard's
Bay, off the New England coast, with its existing buildings,
and a sum of $50,000 for the purpose of converting these and
equipping them for the required purpose. This offer was
made in the early summer, and by July 8, as the result of
strenuous endeavour and a combined ejffort on the part of the
professor, his students and the workmen, the buildings were
converted, furnished and equipped, and were opened for the
PLATE VII.
m^
Professor Louis Agassiz.
ALEXANDER AGASSIZ 107
accommodation of a summer school of marine biology,
attended by about fifty students, many of whom were
teachers of science in various parts of the country. Agassiz
lectured, assisted by several other younger biologists,
throughout the summer, and conducted all the operations
with great enthusiasm. But it was his last effort. His
health was failing rapidly, and he died towards the close of
that year (1873).
Now we must turn attention more closely to the son,
Alexander Agassiz, who may truly be said to have devoted
his Hfe and fortune to marine exploring expeditions.
Shortly after the time when Alexander Agassiz arrived as a
boy in the United States, he was taken by his father for a
voyage in the " Bibb," one of the Coast Survey vessels.
This was his first, and we are told that it seemed very likely
to be his last, experience of oceanic exploration, for after
coming on board he fell down a hatchway and was laid out
apparently dead in the saloon. However, he soon recovered,
and afterwards made many successive voyages in Coast
Survey vessels, notably the " Blake " and the " Albatross,"
and also in other special steamers which he chartered for his
expeditions. His voyages covered more than 100,000 miles
in tropical seas, and it has been said that he personally has
run more lines of investigation across the great oceans and
has made more deep-sea soundings than all other oceano-
graphers taken together. His first expedition in the " Blake ' '
was in 1877, when he had with him, as commander. Captain
C. D. Sigsbee, who was afterwards in charge of the ill-fated
" Maine," the exciting cause of the outbreak of the war
with Spain.
Agassiz's knowledge and experience as a mining engineer
were of the greatest value on board the " Blake " in devising
improvements in the apparatus for deep-sea work. He
substituted steel- wire rope for dredging in place of hemp, and
invented mechanical contrivances for equalizing the strain
108 FOUNDEKS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
and facilitating the hoisting in of the apparatus. He and
Captain Sigsbee together devised a new form of double-edged
dredge, generally known as the " Agassiz " or the " Blake "
dredge or trawl, which will work equally well whichever way
it falls on the bottom ; and also a very ingenious closing
tow-net (called the " gravitating trap "), which could be
lowered to any depth, opened and towed, and then closed
again, so that it was possible to strain the plankton or minute
organisms from a column of water of any given length at a
particular depth. As the result of experiments with this
apparatus, they were unable to find any planktonic organisms
in the region investigated below 100 fathoms from the
surface. These, and other later investigations with the
" Tanner " closing tow-net in the " Albatross," led Agassiz
to believe that, between the plankton fauna living at or near
the surface, say down to 200 fathoms, and that on or near the
bottom, there was a vast region where practically no life
existed. This theory (the non-existence of a mesoplankton),
with some modifications as to the extent of the upper zone of
life (he defined it later on, after experiments with the
*' Tanner " net in the " Albatross," as " a marked falHng off
below 200 fathoms "), Agassiz maintained to the end of his
days in opposition to most other oceanographers, including
his friend Sir John Murray. It was during the successive
voyages in the " Blake " that Agassiz was able to add to our
knowledge of that great warm current the Gulf Stream,
from the Strait of Florida to the Newfoundland Banks, and,
as the result of this and later work, to show the connection
between ocean currents and an abundant surface plankton
and the dependence of the bottom fauna upon the plankton.
It is interesting to note as the climax of Alexander Agassiz 's
connection with the Coast Survey that in 1885 President
Cleveland offered him the position of superintendent of the
whole of that work and Scientific Adviser to the Government.
However, considerations of health and of the probable
sacrifice of his own scientific work which would be necessary,
ALEXANDER AGASSIZ 109
caused him to refuse what must have been in some ways a
very tempting offer. There is no doubt that he gave much
scientific service in hydrographic work for the U.S. Coast
Survey, in charting the seas of both the Atlantic and Pacific
shores of his adopted land.
Although trained as an engineer, there is no doubt that
even in his younger days, when working at his profession, his
heart was really in marine biology, and he made notable
contributions to embryology and morphology quite apart
from his constant museum work at Harvard and his later
oceanographic expeditions. His memoirs on the North
American Acalephce, on the Embryology of the Star-Fish and
his Revision of the Echini established his position as a first-
rate zoologist. He discovered the relation of the ' ' Tornaria "
larva to the chordate Balanoglossus, the larval stages of
various Annelids, the pelagic young of certain fishes, the fact
that the pincer-like pedicellarise of Echinids are modified
spines, and many new deep-sea animals, all before his
fortieth year.
Upon the death of his father in 1873 he undertook the
direction of the marine biological laboratory which had just
been established on Penikese Island, but after running it,
with the valued assistance of Packard and Putnam, for one
succeeding year, he found that the strain was more than his
health could stand, and, consequently, as that isolated island
was in many ways inconvenient for the purpose, he was led to
abandon that first American marine station and erect a
private laboratory beside his house at Castle Hill, near
Newport, Rhode Island, which, for the next quarter of a
century, was an active centre for a small body of the leading
younger biologists of America. The Newport laboratory
was finally closed to students in 1898, when its place was
taken by the now celebrated marine laboratory and the Fish
Commission Hatchery at Woods Hole, near the junction of
Buzzard's Bay and Vineyard Sound.
Another piece of work which Alexander Agassiz took over
no FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
on the death of his father in 1873 was the direction of what is
now one of the great museums of the world, and to which
during his life time he gave a million and a half of dollars and
devoted nearly fifty years of service. As a boy he had seen it
housed in a ramshackle wooden shed and then grow in his
father's hands to something like what it eventually became,
and as an old man he left it after one of his last endowments
practically complete as to the scheme and arrangement and
exhibiting, as no other museum in the world does, the geo-
graphical and oceanographical distribution of animal life.
At the time of his death, in 1910, the museum had pub-
lished fifty-four volumes of its Bulletin and forty volumes
of the larger Memoirs^ for the most part at the expense
of Mr. Agassiz.
In addition to all his scientific work it must be remembered
that Alexander Agassiz was a highly successful man of
business. He had been trained at the university as a mining
engineer, and as a young man he took over the management
of the Calumet and Hecla copper-mines, on the southern shore
of Lake Superior, which were then in a desperate state.
These are remarkable mines in this respect, that the metal
occurs not as an ore, but in the form of native copper. By
his engineering knowledge, his business ability and his
indomitable perseverance he managed to overcome great
difficulties and convert an enterprise that seemed doomed to
failure into a great financial success. He was president of
this very important mining company up to the time of his
death in 1910.
The hardships he endured during many winter months in
the wilds, while seeing his mines through their early troubles,
brought on a severe illness (1868) from which, it is said, he
never completely recovered. In his convalescence the
liberality of a Boston friend enabled liim to reahze a long-
wished-for opportunity of visiting and examining the
collections of Echinoderms in European museums, and of
becoming personally acquainted with the British naturalists
ALEXANDER AGASSIZ 111
then engaged in oceanographical work, and especially in
deep-sea exploration. He visited Wjnrille Thomson in
BeKast in order to see and hear about the results of the
" Lightning " and " Porcupine " expeditions. After this
visit, it seems that Wyville Thomson " had written to
Agassiz complaining that he had lost or mislaid some deep-
sea specimen, and Agassiz jocularly replied from London
assuring him that he had * taken nothing away from
Ireland except a bad cold.' "
Returning now to the consideration of his oceanographical
work, his book The Three Cruises of the " Blake " gives in
popular form the general results of all his voyages in the
" Blake " from 1877 to 1880, illustrated by 545 maps and
figures of the remarkable inhabitants of the cold dark floor
of the deep sea and of many of the most interesting forms of
the surface plankton of the GuK Stream and the West
Indies. The value to science of the 355 deep-sea observations
made on the Atlantic coasts of the United States may be
gathered from the following statement by Sir John Murray :
"If we can say that we now know the physical and
biological conditions of the great ocean basins in their broad
general outlines — and I believe we can do so — the present
state of our knowledge is due to the combined work and
observations of a great many men belonging to many
nationalities, but most probably more to the work and
inspiration of Alexander Agassiz than to any other single
man. Agassiz 's researches in the Atlantic resulted in very
definite knowledge concerning the submarine topography of
the West Indian region and of the animals inhabiting these
seas at all depths — probably we know more of this submarine
area than of any other area of equal extent in the world
because of his explorations. He arrived at the general result
that the deep-sea animals of the Gulf of Panama were more
closely aUied to those in the deep waters of the Caribbean
Sea than the Caribbean forms were to those of the deep
Atlantic. Hence he concluded that the Caribbean Sea was
112 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
at one time a bay of the Pacific Ocean, and that since
Cretaceous times it had been cut off from the Pacific by the
uprise of the Isthmus of Panama."
This conclusion, it may be added, is in close agreement
with the later discoveries of geologists as to the movements of
land and sea in Central America.
His later, and more specially oceanographic, expeditions
were primarily devoted to the exploration of coral reef
problems. After the death of his father, closely followed
by that of his young wife, in 1873, he spent much time in
travel abroad, and it was apparently during a visit to the
" Challenger " Office at Edinburgh, in 1876 or 1877 (when I,
then a young student of zoology, first saw him), that he
became interested in Murray's work on the building up and
the breaking down of calcareous deposits in tropical seas,
and especially in relation to the mode of formation of coral
reefs. The situation at that time, or at any rate the views
held at the " Challenger " Office and which excited Agassiz's
interest, are summarized in the following quotation from
Miwray's obituary notice of his friend, published in the
Bulletin of the Museum of Comparative Zoology, vol. 54, 1911.
I shall discuss the various theories as to the growth of
coral reefs and islands more fully in a later chapter, but this
will be sufficient to indicate the object and the bearing of
Agassiz's contributions to the subject as the result of his
many expeditions in coral seas. Murray says : —
" One of the most striking results of the * Challenger '
expedition was the discovery of enormous numbers of
pelagic calcareous Algae, pelagic Foraminifera, and pelagic
Mollusca in the surface and sub -surface waters everywhere
within tropical and sub -tropical regions, but the dead
calcareous shells of these pelagic organisms were not dis-
tributed with similar uniformity over the floor of the ocean.
In some places they formed pteropod and globigerina oozes,
but in the very greatest depths not a trace of these shells
could be found in the red clays which covered the bed of the
ALEXANDER AGASSIZ 113
ocean. It was observed that the thinner and more delicate
shells disappeared first from the marine deposits with
increasing depth, and only the thicker and more compact
shells or their fragments reached the greater depths. These
conclusions were verified again and again during the cruise
of the ' Challenger,' and subsequently by Agassiz in his
expeditions. Evidently the calcareous shells were removed
by the solvent action of sea water as they fell towards, or
shortly after they reached, the bottom of the ocean. In the
shallower depths the majority of the shells reached the
bottom before being completely dissolved, and there accumu-
lated. The solvent action was also retarded, in these lesser
depths, through the sea water in direct contact with the
deposit becoming saturated, and therefore unable to take up
more lime. The explanations thus given to account for the
disappearance of carbonate of lime from deep-sea deposits
were then applied to the interpretation of the phenomena of
coral atolls and barrier reefs. It was argued that all the
characteristic features of atolls and barrier reefs could be
explained by a reference to the biological, mechanical, and
chemical processes everywhere going on in the ocean without
calling in the extensive subsidences demanded by the
theories of Darwin and Dana."
Alexander Agassiz's examination of the coral growths on
the coast of Florida in his first cruise in the " Blake,"
supported by w^hat he had seen of the " Challenger " results,
excited an interest which lasted during the remainder of his
life, and gave rise to many special expeditions for the
purpose of exploring reefs in all parts of the tropical seas.
It may be said that the last thirty years of his life were given
over to the investigation of coral reef problems. He devoted
himseK to accumulating facts, and was on all occasions averse
to committing himself to theoretical views. He certainly
held that the explanations given by Darwin and Dana of the
formation of an atoll could only be of limited application, if
even that. And there is no doubt that, as the result of his
I
114 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
unrivalled experience, he is to be reckoned as a supporter in
the main of Murray's theory. When he first heard of it he
said, " This new view is founded on observation and can be
verified, and I'll attempt to do it, and will visit the coral-reef
regions for the purpose " ; and he certainly explored and
described and illustrated with much photographic detail
every important coral-reef region in the tropical Atlantic,
Pacific and Indian Oceans. When, in 1903, he gave an
address to the Royal Society of London on the subject, he
stated in the discussion that in all his investigations and
voyages he had not seen one single atoll or barrier reef which
could be said to be an illustration of the Darwinian theory of
coral reefs.
According to Sir John Murray ^ Agassiz claimed to have
shown (1) that existing atolls and barrier reefs in no way
indicate the former position of shore-lines around islands
now deeply submerged ; (2) that the platforms or banks
from which atolls and reefs arise have been built up or
levelled down in a variety of ways and at different times, each
coral-reef region requiring to have its special conditions
studied, as no general law applies to all ; (3) that the
characteristic features of the atoll, the single shallow lagoon
and the surrounding rim of living coral with deep water
outside, can be explained by biological, chemical and
mechanical activities continuously in operation at the
present time, and that therefore the atoll and the barrier reef
cannot be accepted as evidence of subsidence ; the character-
istic features of these reefs might be developed in a stationary,
and in a slowly rising, as well as in a slowly sinking area ;
(4) that the coral atoll on reaching the surface would, under
certain conditions, advance seawards on a talus of its own
debris, expanding like a *' fairy ring" in grass, and his
interpretation of the Funafuti boring was that it was driven
down through such a talus with an underljdng tertiary base.
As he returned from each of his expeditions with the result
^ Bull. Mus. Comp. ZooL, Harvard, vol. 54, 3, 1911.
ALEXANDER AGASSIZ 115
that he had been unable to find any traces of subsidence, his
opponents retorted that the region he had been investigating
must be an exceptional one. This occurred so frequently
that his long-continued exploration of the tropical seas may
be described as an exhaustive and fruitless search for a
typical coral reef. After his visit to the Maldives in the
Indian Ocean in 1901, his son writes : " Agassiz had now
visited practically all the important coral-reef regions of the
world, and in no single instance had he seen an atoll or
barrier reef whose formation he thought could be satis-
factorily explained by subsidence. It naturally followed
that his final conclusion was a total dissent from Darwin's
theory on the subject."
Professor Stanley Gardiner had visited the Maldives just
before Agassiz, and it is important to note that in all essential
respects they are in accord, and both have decided that
*' Darwin's theory is not applicable to the Maldives."
The late Dr. A. G. Mayer, formerly Director of the Carnegie
Institute Research Laboratory on the Tortugas, who had
been with Agassiz on several of his expeditions, writing of his
coral-reef explorations, says : " I believe science will come to
see that he succeeded in showing that Darwin's simple
explanation of the formation of atolls does not hold in any
part of the world."
It was during Agassiz 's Maldive trip in the winter of 1901-2
that I had a most interesting interview with him. I had
met him before that in Edinburgh, had visited him in his
Newport laboratory, and, again since at Harvard, but at
Colombo in Ceylon in January, 1902, we spent a long day
and evening together. He had just returned from his
Maldive expedition and I was just starting on mine to the
pearl banks in the Gulf of Manaar. Our two steamers, both
chartered from the British India Co., lay at anchor side by
side in the harbour, and we dined on shore that evening and
discussed coral reefs, tropical seas and marine biology in
general. My expedition profited greatly by that chance
116 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
encounter, for next morning, before I sailed, Agassiz had
shipped from his vessel to mine some 600 fathoms of steel
dredging wire and an odd assortment of store bottles and
tubes left over from his expedition.
I had thought of him before as a quiet, reserved man of
great determination and ability. It has been said of him in
America : " He was a colossal leader of great enterprises
fully as much as he was a man of science." But at that time
at Colombo, and also since, I have felt that he was also very
thoughtful for others and of a kindly and generous disposition.
When the " Challenger " expedition carried her explora-
tions down through the central Southern Pacific, she found
a rather puzzling state of things. In deep water relatively
very few animals were captured on the bottom of the ocean
when compared with those taken in the Great Southern
Ocean or nearer continental shores ; those obtained were,
however, of rather pronounced archaic types. The deposits
in the same area were of surpassing interest ; large quantities
of a deep-brown clay were hauled up, in which were imbedded
enormous numbers of manganese nodules and concretions,
some of them being formed around sharks' teeth, ear-bones
and other bones of whales, and others around volcanic
fragments mostly converted into the mineral palagonite.
Sometimes hundreds of sharks' teeth and dozens of whales'
ear-bones were captured in a single haul, and most of them
belonged to extinct species ; some of the teeth were of such
size that the sharks must have been 100 feet in length.
Small zeolitic crystals and crystal balls were also mixed up
in these red-brown clays, evidently formed in situ. More
extraordinary still were the minute spherules, having a hard
black coating and an interior of pure iron and nickel, as
well as other minute spherules, called chondres, found
hitherto only in meteorites. These spherules are believed to
have an extra-terrestrial origin, and to have formed at one
time the tails of meteorites or faUing stars. This was a
strange assemblage of things, and some scientific men argued
ALEXAJSFDER AGASSIZ 117
that such a condition of matters must be regarded as local
and accidental.
Now, Alexander Agassiz, on his last expedition, to the
Eastern Pacific, in 1904-5, explored anew this region of the
earth's surface the furthest removed from the shores of
continental land, and he found that this same condition of
things extended over vast areas of the Pacific Ocean. Here
we have almost certainly the region of minimum accumu-
lation on the sea-floor, and recent investigations indicate that
there is in these deep deposits more radio-active matter
than anywhere else in the solid crust of our planet. A
satisfactory and clear understanding of the chemical
phenomena taking place on the floor of the ocean in this
region has not yet been obtained, but Agassiz's researches
take us a long way on the road to a solution of some exceed-
ingly interesting and important oceanic problems. Take, for
example, his conclusion that the bottom fauna depends upon
the surface plankton, and that depends upon the presence of
strong currents, which may be expressed briefly as — no
currents, no plankton, no bottom fauna. This was one
of his last contributions to oceanography ; and Prof. C. A.
Kofoid, who was with him on the occasion, has kindly given
me the use of a photograph (PI. VIII.) he took of Agassiz
watching the arrival of the deep-sea trawl on the deck of the
*' Albatross." He passed his seventieth birthday at sea on this
Pacific expedition, and he actually died at sea in mid-ocean
five years later, while returning from a visit to Europe.
The following list of his more notable expeditions may be
of interest : —
" Blake " . . Caribbean Sea . . 1877-80
" Albatross " . South Seas and Pacific . 1899-1900
I Bahamas and Cuba . . 1892
Bermuda and Florida . . 1894
Barrier Reef, Australia . 1896
Fiji Islands . . .1897-8
Maldives . . . .1902
"Albatross" . Eastern Tropical Pacific .1904-5
118 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
Professor Kof oid, of the University of California, who acted
as one of his scientific assistants on his last great Pacific
expedition, writes : " The oceanographer of the future will
acknowledge his great debt to this the greatest of explorers of
the sea. His explorations carried him over 100,000 miles of
voyaging in tropical seas, principally in the Caribbean and
about its adjacent islands, in the Indian Ocean, and especially
in the tropical Pacific. It is safe to say that his expeditions
mapped more lines across deep-sea basins and made more
deep-sea soundings than all other scientific expeditions
combined."
PLATE VIII.
[Photo by C. A. KOFOID.
Alexander Agassiz on U.S.S. "Albatross" in Tropical Pacific,
WATCHING ARRIVAL ON DECK OF DeEP-SeA TrAWL.
CHAPTER VI
THE PRINCE OF MONACO AND THE OCEANO-
GRAPHIC MUSEUM
Not infrequently in the past have princes and nobles been
munificent patrons of science and done much for the advance-
ment of knowledge ; but it must be rare, indeed, for a reigning
prince to attain recognition and distinction as a practical
working man of science. The late Prince of Monaco was
both. He has given to France and the world of science at
least three research institutions of first-rate importance ; and
throughout many years of his life, during the last half -century,
since on one of his early expeditions his little yacht lay
alongside the " Challenger " in the Tagus, in January, 1873,
he has himself planned and carried out many notable
investigations in oceanography.
His Serene Highness Prince Albert Honor6 Charles, a
descendant of the ancient house of Grimaldi, was born in
1848, and succeeded his father, Prince Charles III, as
sovereign ruler of Monaco in 1889. He died in 1922.
In his early youth he served as lieutenant in the Spanish
Navy, and since then has shown a Lifelong devotion to the
pea and its exploration, and consequently both nature and
training conspired to make him an accomplished navigator,
competent to take command of his own ship. Probably the
most characteristic representation of the Prince is the statue
in the Oceanographic Museum at Monaco, showing him in
plain sailor's uniform standing at the rail on the bridge of
his yacht. (See also the photograph on Plate IX.)
He must have spent a large portion of his life, and much
119
120 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
of the ample funds fortune placed at his disposal, in the
many expeditions which he conducted in his successively
larger and more perfectly equipped yachts, from the 200-ton
schooner '' Hirondelle " up to the second " Princesse Alice "
(1898), a magnificent ocean-going steam vessel of 1,420 tons,
and about 240 feet in length, fitted and manned for every
kind of exploring work at sea. The GuK Stream, the Azores,
Spitzbergen, the Mediterranean, and much of the Atlantic
from the Equator to the Arctic Circle, were systematically
investigated in both their physical and their biological
characters. His companions and assistants on these
expeditions have included the Baron de Guerne, Dr. Jules
Richard, and our countrymen, Mr. J. Y. Buchanan (of the
" Challenger ") and Dr. W. S. Bruce, the Antarctic explorer ;
and the results, both in general oceanography and on the
zoology of various groups of animals, have been made known
to science first by the Prince's preliminary reports of over
thirty annual cruises in the Comptes-Eendus of the Paris
Academy, and later in full detail in those beautifully illus-
trated publications, Resultats des Champagnes Scientifiques,
etc. (over 50 parts), and the later series of octavo
Bulletins (upwards of 400 parts) and the quarto Annales de
rinstitut Oceanogr., all issued by the Monaco Press, with
the co-operation of Dr. Jules Richard, Director of the
Museum.
It is chiefly in connection with the devising of apparatus
for deep-sea research and in introducing new methods of
investigation that the Prince's expeditions differ from others.
Amongst other new appliances which have yielded notable
results may be mentioned his huge baited traps (the " nasse "),
his " stirrup-trawl " and other types of trawls and nets for
various depths of water, and his use of submarine electric
lights to attract fishes and Crustacea. There can be no doubt
that his practical knowledge as a seaman and as a mechanical
engineer added greatly to the efficiency and success of all his
work on the yacht. His chief assistant, Dr. Richard, gave
THE PRINCE OF MONACO 121
full descriptions and useful illustrations of many of these
appliances for oceanographical investigation in Bulletin No.
162, published from Monaco in 1910.
All the Prince's successive voyages were very fruitful of
scientific results, and biology owes the knowledge of many
new deep-sea Atlantic animals to the special memoirs issued
from the Monaco Press. But none of these have been more
novel, and almost sensational, than the results of the Prince's
whale -fishing expeditions in the Mediterranean and the
Atlantic, when he obtained the more or less perfect remains
of various new and, in some cases, gigantic cuttle-fishes (such
as Lepidoteuthis grimaldii and Cucioteuthis unguiculata) from
the stomachs of the toothed sperm-whales, or " cachalot."
These huge and previously unknown '' squids," or cuttle-fish,
seem to be the principal, if not the sole, food of these toothed
whales.
In the various reports of the expeditions from about 1896
onwards we have interesting accounts of Homeric fights
with these monsters of the sea, of which the following
sentences — in part quotations from a letter of the Prince to
Mr. J. Y. Buchanan, who had accompanied him on many of
his expeditions — may be taken as a sample. ]\'Ir. Buchanan
prefaces^ the letter by telling us that in 1895, while they were
pursuing deep-sea research near the Azores, a native crew in
their neighbourhood killed a sperm-whale which died under
the bottom of the Prince's j^acht, having charged the ship in
its death-agony as its apparent enemy. On floating up at
the other side it emitted from its widely- opened mouth the
remains of its last meal, which proved to be fragments of
gigantic cuttle-fishes hitherto unknown to science. These
were in such good condition that they could be examined
zoologically, and were afterwards described and figured in
communications to the Paris Academy of Sciences. As soon
as the yacht returned after this experience from the Azores,
the Prince equipped her for the whale fishery, and engaged
^ Accounts Render edi Cambridge University Press, 1919, p. 259.
122 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
a Dundee whaler called Wedderburn as his mate. Extracts
from the Prince's letter are as follows :
" The trial of our whaling business has given splendid
results ... in twenty-four hours we harpooned and secured
three big cetaceans and lost a whale. Each of these cases
was very dramatic ; the whale . . . was one of those who
dive very deep and straight towards the bottom. She pulled
out the 400 metres of line that we had, in three minutes or
less, with such a powerful speed that the fore part of the boat
took fire. We had to cut just when a few fathoms were
left, and then our boat was full of water. Then the animal
reappeared on the surface, about half an hour later and at a
distance of three miles ; we steamed after it, and the run
lasted the whole day without loss or gain, but after all,
without the possibility for us to shoot the rocket to cause an
end, the whale having got the harpoon in some part which
was not deadly and losing no blood at all. At night I had,
of course, to abandon the pursuit." He then proceeds to
describe a fight they had with three huge specimens of
Orca gladiator, the killer-whale, which is described as the
tiger of the ocean, carrying jaws filled with formidable teeth
for attack and animated with dauntless courage. They
succeeded in killing one at once. Then the two others
attacked the boat and worked so as to squeeze it between
them, which did not succeed because the dead one, which had
been hauled up close, served as a protection on one side, and
also because the rounded shape of the boat and of the
animals produced the effect of lifting the boat out of the
water. Other boats were immediately launched from the
yacht and sent to the battlefield. Meanwhile Wedderburn
succeeded in killing with one stroke of his harpoon the biggest
of the two enemies. The incident was a real battle, which
lasted an hour, and in which four boats and seventeen men
were engaged. As the result of these and similar occur-
rences, the Prince tells us, in the letter, that the beach at
Monaco was now being turned into a whaling station,
THE PRINCE OF MONACO 123
where the skeletons were being prepared for the museum.
These were only the first experiences of a series of investi-
gations which the Prince has since made into the occurrence,
habits, and structure of both the whales and their food, the
cuttle-fishes. Professor Joubin, in a paper on the zoological
details, tells us that when the stomach of the sperm-whale
caught in 1895 was opened, it was found filled with a quantity,
estimated at over 100 kilograms, of partially digested remains
of these Cephalopods, all of them of enormous size. He
describes some of the muscular arms, though much shrunken
and contracted, as being as thick as those of a man and
covered with more than a hundred great suckers, each armed
with a short claw as powerful as those of a lion or a tiger.
The stomachs of the sperm-whales usually contain in addition
a large number of the horny beaks and other harder parts of
cuttle-fishes, the more indigestible residue of former repasts.
Another case reported is where a whale contained a single
arm or tentacle which, " though incomplete from having
been partially digested, still measured 27 feet in length,"
and this seems to justify the common saying of the sailors
that " the squids are the biggest fish in the sea."
It is well known that the sperm-whale is valuable, not
merely on account of its blubber, from which oil is obtained,
but also because of two very important commercial products,
the one being the spermaceti, a wax which occurs in liquid
condition in a large cavity of the head, and the other being
the still more valuable material, ambergris, w^hich occurs in
the form of lumps or concretions in the animal's intestine.
It seems probable that this ambergris, which is not found in
all sperm-whales, but only, it is said, in those that seem
torpid and sickly, is really a pathological product, and it is
suggested that it may be produced as a result of the irritation
caused by the cuttle-fish beaks and other hard parts, which
are frequently found embedded in the concretions. Lumps
of ambergris, which is used in the arts both as a drug and also
as the basis of many of the finest perfumes, may be found on
124 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
occasions weighing up to 100 or even, exceptionally, close on
200 lb., and may be of the value of anything up to £1,000
sterling.
It seems probable that the huge cuttle-fish, upon which the
sperm-whale feeds, are inhabitants neither of the surface
nor of the bottom, but of the deep intermediate waters, the
region of the sea which is least known. They apparently
never come to the surface, nor are they caught in our trawls.
They are powerful swimmers and very muscular, and up to
the present, as Mr. Buchanan says,^ " the only means of
capturing these interesting and gigantic animals is to engage
a bigger giant to undertake the task, and to kill him in his
turn when he has performed the service."
It seems probable that the whale usually brings its
captured prey to the surface in order to devour it, and the
combat of the " thresher " and the whale, or the supposed
sea-serpent and the whale, which occurs in so many sailors'
stories, seems to be explainable as the violent and desperate
resistance of the giant cuttle-fish to being swallowed when
brought to the surface by the cachalot. Whales have been
found with wounds, scratches, and impressions on their skin,
which are clearly due to the claws and suckers of the cuttle-
fish, and there is one specimen described from the Monaco
Museum which has an impress of gigantic suckers round the
lips of the whale —as if the prey had resisted to the last
being swallowed by its captor.
As an example of a totally different kind of oceanographic
research conducted by the Prince, we may take the cruise of
the summer of 1902, when, just outside the mouth of the
Mediterranean, at a depth of 800 fathoms, he found the
bottom water to have the remarkably high temperature of
9-4° C. Now, the temperature of the bottom water of that
region of the Atlantic at a depth of 800 fathoms ought not to
be higher than 4-5° C. "It was evident, therefore," says
]VIr. Buchanan in discussing this result, '' that we had here
^ Accounts Bendered, p. 274.
THE PRINCE OF MONACO 125
struck one of the main drains of overflow from the abysmal
regions of the Mediterranean," where the water at the bottom
is a good deal warmer than in the Atlantic. The Mediter-
ranean is so situated that it loses more water by evaporation
from its surface than is supplied to it during the year by rain
and rivers. If the Straits of Gibraltar were closed, it is
calculated that the Mediterranean would shrink in size and
increase in saltness till it attained a condition similar to that
of the Dead Sea. The deficiency due to over- evaporation is
compensated by the surface current of Atlantic water which
it is well known enters at the Straits, and every gallon of this
Atlantic water brings with it about six ounces of salt, which
remains in the sea when the water evaporates, and would
tend to accumulate as water of high density at the bottom
were it not that it is discharged in a deep current into the
Atlantic. This outflow, after passing between Capes
Spartel and Trafalgar, naturally follows the deepest channels
outwards until it is lost in the ocean. Mr. Buchanan argues
that the high temperature obtained outside the Straits at a
depth of 800 fathoms on this occasion was due to one of these
local rivers of relatively warm and salt water, and he calcu-
lates, from a comparison of temperatures, that at that point it
consisted roughly of 50 per cent, of Mediterranean and 50 per
cent, of Atlantic water.
As another example of the Prince's oceanographical work
in the neighbourhood of the Azores, we may take the dis-
covery in 1902 of the existence of an enclosed basin, appro-
priately known as the " Monaco " deep, in which the
temperature at a depth of 1,645 fathoms was 5° C. Now, in
the open water of the North Atlantic of the neighbourhood
the temperature at such a depth ought not to be higher
than 3° C. It was evident, then, that the sounding had been
taken in an enclosed basin shut off from the water of the
surrounding ocean by a lip situated at such a depth below the
surface that the minimum temperature of the water which
can gain access to it is 5° C. This result was confirmed by
126 FOUNDERS OP OCEANOGRAPHY
a number of subsequent soundings and temperature deter-
minations. The depth of the barrier separating the
" Monaco " deep from the ocean outside, it is calculated by
Mr. Buchanan, must be between 850 and 900 fathoms. This
feature of enclosed basins, cut off by submarine barriers from
the ocean around, and containing warmer water than their
depth warrants, seems to be one that is common to many
archipelagos, and examples are known from the West
Indies, the Sulu Seas, Celebes, the Mediterranean, and the
Red Sea. In a previous chapter we have seen a somewhat
similar case in the Faroe Channel, where the Wy ville Thom-
son ridge prevents the cold bottom Arctic water from flowing
into the area of warmer Atlantic water.
There is another investigation which will always be
connected with the Prince of Monaco's name, and that is his
distribution, commenced as far back as 1885, of floats or
drift bottles over wide areas of the Atlantic starting from the
Azores as a centre, in order to determine the set of the
currents. These floats, in some cases bottles, in others
blocks of wood, but in the later development of the work
spherical copper vessels so weighted as to float just below the
surface in order to avoid the direct action of the wind,
contained in sealed tubes a paper printed in nine languages,
requesting the finder to fill up certain details and return
it to the ofiice at Monaco. In his first experiments, out of
931 floats so distributed on certain lines across the ocean,
226 have been found and returned, and the results of their
wanderings have yielded a considerable amount of valuable
information in regard to the movements of currents in the
North Atlantic and especially of the Gulf Stream water.
These and other later observations, resulting from the
distribution of about 2,000 floats in all, have enabled the
Prince to draw up a valuable chart showing the surface
circulation of the Atlantic water, upon which he was un-
doubtedly at the time of his death the leading authority.
It is of interest to notice in this connection a recent paper
THE PRINCE OF MONACO 127
by the Prince, communicated to the French Academy of
Sciences in 1919, dealing with the futm-e of the floating
mines which have gone adrift as a result of operations in the
recent war, and showing that some of them may be a danger
to navigation in certain parts of the North Atlantic for at
least four years from that date. He showed that those from
mine-fields in the North Sea will eventually find their way to
the fjords of Norway, while those from the western shores of
Europe will enter into the great Atlantic circulation deter-
mined by the influence of the Gulf Stream, and will be
carried south towards the Cape Verde Islands, and will then
work westward in the equatorial current towards America,
visiting the Antilles and Bahamas, They wiU then fall into
the current of the Gulf Stream, which will enable them to
reach Bermuda on the way to the Azores, so circulating
round the Sargasso Sea between the fiftieth latitude to the
north and the fifteenth to the south. Some may continue
to circulate in this great cycle, while others may be carried
north-east towards the western coasts of the British Isles.
Those that take this latter course will eventually reach the
Norwegian fjords, and probably, in the end, the Arctic Ocean
by the North Cape, and be, no doubt, ultimately destroyed in
their encounter with the ice. The Prince calculates that the
rate of wandering of these mines in the great Atlantic circu-
lation will be about five miles per twenty-four hours. He
gives some useful advice to navigators as to the safest routes
and the lines of greatest danger in crossing the Atlantic, and
adds that the coasts of the United States will be protected
against this danger of mines coming from Europe by the cold
Labrador current which descends from the north to the
coasts of Florida.
As a further contribution to oceanography the Prince has
had prepared, and has published at Monaco, a very valuable
" Carte Generale Bathymetrique des Oceans," on which are
collected all the really accurate deep-water soundings of
the various expeditions. Shortly before his death he had
128 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
appointed a commission of experts to revise the chart and
issue a new and improved edition.
In July, 1891, the Prince of Monaco, accompanied by his
collaborator. Baron Jules de Guerne (then President of the
Zoological Society of France), attended a special meeting of
the Royal Society of Edinburgh for the purpose of delivering
an address ^ upon the arrangements he had adopted in his new
yacht ("PrincesseAliceI")f or the adequate study of problems
of the ocean. In speaking of his earlier work on the schooner
" Hirondelle," after some remarks on the importance of
work at sea and the difficulty of finding scientific men who can
carry it out, he said : "It was consequent on such reflections
that, some seven or eight years ago, I undertook the mission
that lay before me because I was at once a sailor and devoted
to science." He then describes his soundings, temperature
observations and dredgings in the Gulf of Gascony down to a
depth of 500 metres, and his arrangements on the new yacht
for similar work in any depths up to 8,000 metres. He gave
an account also of the results of his " drift-floats " up to that
time in regard to the directions and mean velocity of the
currents in the North Atlantic. Incidentally, in answer to
the question, " What is oceanography ? " he says it will soon
appear as strange as the question would be, " What is
geography ? " and he divides physiography into these two
departments of knowledge, geography and oceanography.
The magnificent oceanographical museum, which the
Prince has built on the southern face of the ancient rock of
Monaco rising steeply from the edge of the Mediterranean,
was inaugurated by a series of impressive functions lasting
for four days at the end of March, 1910. Oceanographers
and other scientific men representative of many countries
were present on the invitation of the Prince, and France,
Italy and Germany at least had sent ships of their navy,
which were thrown open to the scientific visitors along with
the Prince's yacht. In his inaugural address the Prince gave
^ Proc. Roy. Soc. Edin., vol. xviii, p. 295.
PLATE IX,
The Prince on the Bridgk ot hl> Yacht.
The Monaco Museum of Oceanography.
THE PRINCE OF MONACO 129
a generous recognition of British pre-eminence in oceano-
graphical research. It is, therefore, little short of a deplor-
able omission that the British Government failed to send any
ship of the navy and was not officially represented at the
inaugm'ation, although several of us from this country were
present as the Prince's guests.
This museum of oceanography demonstrates the methods
of investigation and the results obtained. It contains the
extensive collections made on the Prince's expeditions, and
also shows the various tjrpes of dredges, trawls, tow-nets, deep-
sea thermometers, water-bottles, current meters and other
apparatus used by the different nations in their explorations.
It may perhaps serve to give an impression of the circum-
stances surrounding the very striking inauguration of this
Musee Oceanographique de Monaco if I quote a few sentences
written in 1910 when returning home from that great meeting.
As the Prince had been recognized for the previous quarter of
a century, by men of science, as an ardent and successful
explorer of the sea, it is not surprising that, when he built and
endowed this unique museum, it was visited at the opening
celebration by such a gathering of scientific men interested in
the sea as had probably never been seen before or since.
" Official representatives of France, Italy, Germany, Spain,
Portugal, Russia and other countries, delegates from the
leading academies of the world— the Academy of Sciences of
Paris, the Royal Society of London, the Academy ' dei
Lincei ' of Rome, and the corresponding scientific societies of
Berlin, Vienna, Madrid, and St. Petersburg — along with
many other scientific men invited personally by the Prince,
were united in celebrating the progress of oceanography, and
in launching an institution unique in character and of
first-rate importance for science. . . .
'' The museum building is a mass of white masonry, about
100 metres in length and over 70 metres high, planted
actually on the face of the cHff, on the seaward side of the
rock of Monaco. It rises sheer from the sea, and its lower
K
130 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
three storeys are below the level of the top of the rock on
which the old town and palace stand, so that the main
entrance from the streets of the town is haK-way up the
building. Its appearance architecturally is fine from every
point of view, but is especially striking from the sea, where
the masonry appears to be almost a part of the rock, and to
grow up in a series of arches from the ledges of the cliff
itself. . . . (That aspect is shown in Fig. 2, on PI. IX.)
" The Prince's inaugural address, in which he set forth his
aims in founding the museum, was followed by congratu-
latory speeches from M. Loubet, M. Pichon, Admiral von
Koester, and other representatives of the Great Powers
present, and the formal proceedings terminated with brief
discourses on departments of oceanography by the three
professors attached to the institution — Joubin, Poirier and
Berget — after which the company was conducted round the
museum by the Prince and his scientific staff. . . .
*' It is unnecessary to recount all the ceremonies and fetes
of the four days. It will suffice to mention that on one of the
days the Prince gave a banquet to his 300 guests, followed by
congratulatory speeches from the representatives of the
great academies present and other scientific men ; on one
evening he entertained us to a gala representation at the
opera. A second evening was devoted to a ' Fete Venitienne '
on the bay, on a scale which even our southern friends, who
are accustomed to such displays in the open air, on a smooth
sea, under a serene sky, and in a balmy atmosphere, told us
had never in their experience been equalled. The pageant,
performed after dark, represented the legend of Monaco — to
the effect that Hercules, in his wanderings, entered the
ancient port (still known as the Port of Hercules), lying
between the rock of Monaco and the modern Monte Carlo,
and, struck by the wonderful natural features of the situation,
chanted a hymn in praise of beauty and knowledge (art and
science), and, notwithstanding the savage assaults of the
primitive inhabitants, half human, haH beasts, took
THE PRINCE OF MONACO 131
possession of the rock, which he named Monaco (from his own
title Monoechos), and dedicated it to the advancement of
knowledge — all very appropriate to the Prince's new
institution. The whole story was represented in that evening
fete by brilliant illuminations on the dark waters of the bay.
First, huge brightly- coloured monsters of the deep, Behe-
moths and Chimaeras (I suppose really motor-boats with
erections of lath and canvas painted and illuminated inside),
were seen approaching the mouth of the harbour, followed by
three gorgeous barges, on the foremost of which stood
Hercules, played by a gigantic Italian singer, Titta Ruffo,
whose magnificent baritone voice filled the huge natural
amphitheatre, extending from the rock of Monaco to the
casino of Monte Carlo, as he chanted his hymn of dedication.
The primitive inhabitants were there in numerous boats filled
with coloured lanterns. The fierce battle was represented
by volleys of rockets and other fireworks, and by explosions
of coloured fire. Finally, the triumph of Hercules was
celebrated by the bursting into light in the centre of the bay
of three large set-pieces, showing in the centre the arms of the
Grimaldi (the Monaco family, said to be the most ancient in
Europe), supported on the one side by Art and on the other
by Science — all three with mottoes and appropriate devices.
" The Prince's yacht and other visiting yachts, and the
three or four French and Italian gunboats and torpedo-
destroyers that had been sent in honour of the occasion,
were also illuminated at night, and the latter gave searchlight
displays, and were open for inspection during the day. A
reception at the palace, various other entertainments and
scientific meetings in the museum, a visit to the prehistoric
caves of Grimaldi (where the remains of early Mediterranean
man have been found), and other interesting excursions in the
neighbourhood filled up the rest of what was certainly a most
notable occasion in the history both of the principality of
Monaco and of the science of the sea."
That is what I wrote at the time. On reading it over now,
132 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
I only desire to add that our time was not wholly, nor even
mostly, taken up with these festivities, magnificent and
worthy of the occasion though they were. These were
evening functions, but the days were largely occupied with
serious scientific conferences, as they were called, committees
of oceanographers discussing physical and biological problems
of the sea and plans for future work — all of which were put
an end to a few years later by the outbreak of war.
The establishment at Monaco, which serves as a centre of
oceanographic research for the southern nations of Europe,
is to be congratulated on the fact that work at sea — so far as
the Mediterranean is concerned — is now being resumed. A
meeting of the " Commission Internationale pour 1' Explora-
tion Scientifique de la Mer Mediterranee " took place at
Madrid in November, 1919, under the presidency of the
Prince of Monaco, when a programme of work was drawn up,
and spheres of operations were allocated to different countries.
The oceanographical museum at Monaco is, however, only
one part of the foundation which the Prince has laid for the
study of the sea. With the object of arousing interest in
scientific marine studies in France, the Prince started a
series of lectures at the Sorbonne in 1903, and in 1906 he
gave permanence to these studies by endowing them and
presenting to the French nation a building specially devoted
to university instruction in oceanography. In connection
with this "Institut" at Paris three prof essorships have been
established, one of physical oceanography, one of biological
oceanography and the third of the physiology of marine
life. As one of the inaugural addresses stated : —
" By his researches the Prince of Monaco has won for
himself a place in the foremost rank of men of science, and
by enshrining the results in the monumental buildings
at Monaco and Paris he has invested his labours with
permanent value for all time."
It has been said in France of the two oceanographic
institutions that, " the factory is at Monaco, the sale-room at
THE PRINCE OF [MONACO 133
Paris." But it is a distribution oi knowledge rather than a
sale, as all is given gratuitously.
The third great scientific benefaction of the Prince has no
relation to oceanography, but may be mentioned briefly in
order to complete the record. It is the " Institut de
Paleontologie Humaine " at Paris, where again, as at
Monaco, there is a museum and a laboratory with a staff of
professors devoted entirely to the investigation of one
subject^the early history of man. The Prince's personal
interest in prehistoric archaeology has been shown for many
years by the explorations he has conducted or promoted at
the Grimaldi caves near Monaco, and at other caverns and im-
portant sites in France and Spain, along with Professor Boule,
the Abbe Breuil and others, and the results, as in the case of
the oceanography investigations, have been published at his
expense in princely style. It has been reported in the daily
press since his death that he has bequeathed a million francs
as further endowment to each of these research institutions.
Of recent years, since the war, he has played a prominent
and most helpful part in promoting international co-opera-
tion for oceanographic work. He formed a natural centre
in organization and leader in work, and was appointed
president at various international conferences, such as that
held recently at Rome. In his irMependent position he stood
apart from all international rivalries and showed only a
single-minded devotion to the pursuit of truth. His death
in Paris in June, 1922, is a great loss to the cause he did so
much to promote — the advancement of the science of the sea.
No one who has worked with him at a conference or been
his guest at Monaco will be likely to forget his constant
courteous hospitality, his evident interest in all the scientific
questions raised and his desire to secure co-operation between
the different nations in the further exploration of the oceans.
And he did it all because he loved it, and modestly disclaimed
praise — " Je n'y ai aucun merite. Je n'aurais pas et6
heureux sans cela," he said.
CHAPTER VII
MARINE BIOLOGICAL STATIONS FOR RESEARCH
In addition to actual expeditions at sea, the science of
oceanography has gained much during the last haK-century
from observations made on shore by many biologists of all
kinds working at what have come to be called " Biological
Stations." In order to give some account of the scale on
which the best of such institutions have been organized and
equipped, and of the facilities that are offered for investiga-
tions, I have rewritten with some necessary alterations and
additions an article founded on notes taken during a visit
of some weeks to the celebrated zoological station at Naples
and printed in the Popular Science Monthly for September,
1901.^ I have added at the end a short account of the
founder. Dr. Anton Dohrn, from personal recollections of
that remarkable man.
It is interesting to remember that the movement to estab-
lish institutions for the investigation of marine problems on
shore, in which Anton Dohrn was a pioneer, took definite
shape just at the time (1872) when the ** Challenger " was
starting on her memorable voyage round the world.
Biological, zoological, marine stations are all of them
merely the seaside workshops of the modern naturalist ' ' writ
large." But they offer wonderful facilities for the most
advanced and best kinds of biological work, and it is almost
impossible to overestimate the influence they have had in
the advancement of our knowledge of living nature. The
field-naturalist of old, before the days of university labora-
tories, studied his animals and plants aUve in the open, or
^ Made use of with the courteous permission of the Editor.
134
MARINE BIOLOGICAL STATIONS 135
collected and arranged them in his cabinets and museums.
The work was interesting and necessary, but to some extent
superficial. We see its importance enhanced in these later
days in the light of Darwinism. It was an enormous gain to
science when zoological and botanical laboratories were
equipped in the universities, and when every student came
to examine everything for himself and to probe as deeply as
possible into structure and function. It is no wonder if for
a time, in some quarters, in the fascinations of microscopic
dissection and section-cutting and mounting, there was per-
haps a tendency to lose sight of living nature, and to convert
refinement of method and beauty of preparation into the end,
in place of being only the means of the investigation.
The biological station came to put all that right. It pre-
sented a happy union of the observational work of the field-
naturaHst with the minute investigations of the laboratory
student. It brought the laboratory to the seashore, and the
sea, in the form of well-equipped healthy tanks, within the
walls of the laboratory. It enabled the living organisms to
be studied almost in their native haunts by the most refined
laboratory methods.
Fifty years ago the biological station was almost unknown ;
now there are, I suppose, about fifty or possibly more, large
and small, scattered along the shores of the civilized world
from the Arctic Circle to the tropics and AustraHa, from
western California to far Japan in the East — and of these the
parent institution, and by far the finest and most important,
is the world-renowned " Stazione Zoologica " at Naples.
It is almost impossible to think of the Naples station apart
from Anton Dohrn. He was the founder, benefactor, director,
the centre of all its activities, the source of its inspiration.
He established the first building in 1872, and, although he has
had support from the German and Italian Governments and
from scientific institutions all over the world, still I beheve it
is no secret that his own private fortune, used unsparingly,
has contributed much to the permanence and success of the
136 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
undertaking. He fostered and directed it continuously for
over thirty years : the twenty-fifth anniversary of the
foundation was celebrated on April 14, 1897, by a remark-
able memorial in which all the leading biologists of the
world were united.
The international character of the institution is a most
interesting and important feature. Situated in the south of
Italy, founded and directed by a German, subsidized (in an
excellent manner described below) by most European govern-
ments, including even those of Switzerland, Hungary, Hol-
land, Belgium and Spain, the members of the staff and the
naturalists at work in the institution may be of any nation
and usually are of many ; and at any hour of the day at least
the four languages, French, German, English and Italian,
may be heard among the busy groups in the laboratory and
the library. I am describing it as it was before the war.
It is now, no doubt, changed to some extent. On the out-
break of war it was taken over by the ItaHan Government
and put in the control of a Commission of three Italian
professors. Its future is still somewhat uncertain.
But the Naples Zoological Station is not wholly for the
scientific man — in fact, many sight-seeing visitors to Naples
do not know that science has anything to do with it. The
more public department of the institution, the celebrated
" Acquario," is one of the sights of Naples, and is well known
to and highly appreciated by the more intelligent of the tour-
ists you meet at the hotels. The whole institution is usually
known to the English-speaking tourist as " The Aquarium,"
and few, even of those who visit and enjoy it, seem to know
or wonder anjrthing about the remainder of the great white
edifice into the ground floor alone of which they are allowed
to penetrate.
The zoological station of Naples in its present condition
(it was once smaller, and wiU probably some day be larger)
consists of three great white flat-topped buildings of impos-
ing appearance, connected by a central yard and large iron
MARINE BIOLOGICAL STATIONS 137
galleries, placed in the Villa Nazionale, the beautiful public
garden which occupies that part of the shore of the wonderful
Bay of Naples. Surrounded by palms, cacti, aloes, with
groups of statuary, fountains and minor temples, looking out
upon the incomparable panorama from Vesuvius by Sorrento
and Capri to Procida and Ischia, there is probably no finer
situation in the world than that occupied by what is unques-
tionably one of the most important of zoological institutions.
As to this importance, no university laboratory approaches
it. There is no other laboratory where the work-places are
occupied by some forty or fifty doctors of science and pro-
fessors and investigators of established reputation from all
parts of Europe and America, who have come there to do
original work, attracted by the fame of the institution and
its director ; no laboratory where forty such workers can
be kept supplied with abundance of fresh material for their
researches (of the most diverse description) brought from the
sea at least twice a day ; no laboratory where there are such
excellent facilities for work and such charming opportunities
for scientific intercourse.
The staff of the institution a few years before the war,
when I last visited it, consisted of :
(1) Professor Dr. Anton Dohrn, the founder and director.
(2) Seven Scientific Assistants or heads of departments,
one of the most interesting of whom was the late Dr. Lo
Bianco, the administrator of the fisheries and preparateur.
(3) In addition to these scientific heads of departments
there were : — the business secretary, two painters, and the
chief engineer ; and, finally, about thirty attendants, collec-
tors and others employed in the laboratories, in the collecting
and preserving departments, in the aquarium and elsewhere.
This may seem at the first thought a very large staff, but
the activities of the institution are most varied and far-
reaching, and everything that is undertaken is carried to a
high standard of perfection. Whether it be in the exposition
of living animals to the public in the wonderful tanks of the
138 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
*' Acquario," in the collection and preparation of choice
specimens for museums, in the supply of laboratory material
and mounted microscopic objects to universities, in the
facilities afforded for research, or in the educational influence
and inspiration which all young workers in the laboratory
feel — in each and all of these directions the Naples station
has a world-wide renown. And the best proof of this
reputation for excellence is seen in the long list of biologists
from all civilized countries who year after year obtain
material from the station or enroll as workers in the labor-
atory. Close on 1,500 naturalists have now, since the open-
ing of the zoological station in 1873, occupied work-tables,
and, as these men have come from and gone back to practi-
cally all the important laboratories of the world, Naples may
fairly claim to have been for the last haH-century a great
international meeting-ground of biologists, and so to have
exercised a stimulating and co-ordinating influence upon
marine biological and oceanographical research which it
would be difficult to overestimate.
The success of the institution has caused constant additions
and has stimulated the staff to fresh undertakings. To the
original aquarium and zoological laboratories a second build-
ing mainly for botany and physiology and the preparation of
specimens was soon added ; and a third has since been com-
pleted. Additional accommodation has also been obtained by
a rearrangement of the roof of the main building. This gives
space for a second large zoological laboratory, a supplement-
ary library and various smaller rooms, used as chemical and
physiological laboratories, for photography and for bacteri-
ology. A good deal of the research in recent years, both on
the part of those occupying work-tables and of the permanent
staff, has been in the direction of comparative physiology,
experimental embryology and the bacteriology of sea- water,
and all necessary faciUties for such work are now provided.
The laboratories contain accommodation for over fifty
scientific men to work, and each such work-place, known
PLATE X.
Dr. Anton Dohrn.
Zoological Station at Naples.
MARINE BIOLOGICAL STATIONS 139
technically as a *' table," consists either of a small room or
of an alcove or a portion screened off from a larger room.
Such tables are rented at £100 a year, not to individuals, but
to states or universities or committees, and of the fifty-five
tables available before the war, about thirty-four were per-
manently engaged — thus bringing in a considerable annual
subsidy to the administration. Germany used to take some
ten of these tables, and Italy seven. There are, I beUeve,
three American tables — one belonging to the Women's
Association — and there are three English (rented by the
Universities of Cambridge and Oxford and the British Associa-
tion respectively), consequently there are generally about
half a dozen English and American biologists at work in the
station ; but the director always interpreted in a most
liberal spirit the rules as to the occupancy of a table, and, as a
matter of fact, during a visit I made in 1901 there were,
for a short time, no less than three of us on the books as
occupying simultaneously the British Association table, but
in reahty all provided with separate rooms.
A work-table is then really a small laboratory fitted up
with all that is necessary for ordinary biological research,
and additional apparatus and reagents can be obtained as
required. The investigator is supposed to bring his own
microscope and dissecting instruments, but is supplied with
alcohols, acids, stains and other chemicals, glass dishes and
bottles of various kinds and sizes, drawing materials and
mounting reagents. Requisition forms are placed beside the
worker on which to notify his wishes in regard to material
and reagents ; he is visited at frequent intervals by members
of the scientific staff ; he has an attendant to look after his
room and help in other ways, and in fact all his reasonable
wants are suppHed in the most perfect manner. A scientific
man, or woman, then, wishing to do a special research at the
Naples station must be appointed to a particular table for a
definite time by his government, university, or the controlling
committee of that " table," and this is the system which has
140 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
worked so well for nearly fifty years and which has given
a certain stamp and tradition to some at least of the tables.
The opportunities for taking part in collecting expeditions
at sea are most valuable to the young naturalist, and especi-
ally to such as have not had previous experience of the rich
Mediterranean fauna. Dredging, " plankton " collection and
fishing are carried on daily in the Bay of Naples by means of
the two little steamers (the " Johannes Miiller " and the
" Francis BaKour " — both classic names in biology) belong-
ing to the station, and by a flotilla of fishing and other smaller
boats which start for work in the very early morning and
return laden with treasure in time to supply the workers in
the laboratory for the day. Many of the Neapolitan fisher-
men are more or less in the employ of the station and bring to
the laboratory such rare specimens as they may chance to
find in their day's work.
The late Dr. S. Lo Bianco, for many years the genial chief
of the collecting and preserving department, had a pheno-
menal knowledge of the marine fauna, and of where, when
and how to catch any particular thing — and, moreover, of
how best to preserve it when caught. Each afternoon he
visited the laboratories and ascertained the wants of the
workers, each night he gave his orders to his crews of fisher-
men, with various hints as to likely haunts and the best
tactics to pursue ; and the following morning sees a proces-
sion of tubs and baskets filled with glass jars, containing the
specimens rich and rare, being conveyed from the little dock
to the laboratory — generally balanced in wonderful piles on
the heads of the stalwart and picturesque boatmen. Dredg-
ing expeditions during the day along the shores or to the
neighbouring bay of Pozzuoli take place in the steam launch,
and workers who wish to search for some special animal or
who are studying the fauna can join such trips. Then about
once a fortnight or so a longer excursion is organized, say to
Ischia or to Capri, occupying the whole day, and to this all
in the laboratory who care for it are invited. It was on these
MARINE BIOLOGICAL STATIONS 141
occasions that Lo Bianco was seen in his glory ; directing
all proceedings, the centre of all activities, full of geniality
and information, he was the life and soul of the party.
Speaking to us in any language, and knowing everything we
catch on land or sea, patting the fishermen on the back, talk-
ing seriously with the strictly scientific, joking with the more
versatile, sympathizing if necessary with the seasick and
helping every one to enjoy the day and profit by the exper-
ience, he was an ideal leader of the marine biological picnic.
The finest specimens caught or those not required for
immediate investigation are either most skilfully preserved
for museums or pass into the tanks of the aquarium. And it
is possible, without ever going to sea, to gain a very fair idea
of the local Mediterranean fauna from that last-named part
of the institution. The beauty and interest of the aquarium
are due, of course, in great measure to the brilliancy and
abundance of the rich fauna in the neighbouring waters, but
also in part to scientific knowledge and skiU. The tanks are
most carefully watched and governed, and their exact condi-
tion is always known — the temperature, specific gravity,
number of bacteria present, and other particulars of the
water, are constantly tested and considered. The pubHc
admiring the tanks on the ground floor little know of the
" council of war " occasionally summoned in the laboratory
upstairs consisting of experts in the subjects concerned,
chemistry, biology, bacteriology, to examine some unusual
sample or settle some delicate question. And so, by much
care and thought, results and effects are produced which we
admire greatly in the aquarium and which, although no doubt
in part due to the latitude, are also dependent upon the
scientific knowledge and manipulative skill behind the scenes.
Amongst the fishes, we see in one tank fine specimens of
the Muraena — the real old Roman eel — coiling their snake-
like bodies through the necks of broken jars just as their
ancestors no doubt did two thousand years ago with the
same pots and jars — for those in the tanks are antiques — in
142 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
the neighbouring Bay of Baiae. We can see the Torpedo or
electric ray in an open shallow tank, and by putting the
thumb above and the fingers under the animal's flat shoulders,
whilst we pull or squeeze the tail with the other hand, an
electric shock can be obtained. Octopus, squids and other
cuttle-fish are present in abundance ; crabs that mimic their
surroundings, those with anemones and with sponges on
their backs, animals that look like plants, corals and sea-fans
of many kinds, worms that live in leathery tubes a foot long
and expand out of the top, like gorgeous flowers six inches
across with innumerable spirally-arranged petals — these
seem to be the favourites with visitors. But probably the
most interesting tanks to the scientific man are those con-
taining the recently caught " plankton," the Medusae and
other delicate and gelatinous surface organisms. There is one
marvellous creature that can be seen almost nowhere else, the
Gestus veneris, "Venus's girdle,'* which is like an undulating,
pulsating band of light, in some positions absolutely trans-
parent, in others flashing iridescent fire like a diamond from
its sides. So much for the public aquarium, which, at an
admission fee of two francs, brings in to the institution a
revenue of about £1,000 a year. Now a word as to the
publications of the station before the war.
Workers at Naples are free to publish the results of their
investigations where they like, and records of the good work
in all departments of biology which has been done at this
station are to be found in all civilized countries in the form of
memoirs and articles contributed to the scientific periodicals
of the world. But still a considerable amount of the whole,
including a number of the more extended, more solid and
more noteworthy contributions, has been published at Naples
as a noble series of monographs on the Fauna and Flora of the
Gulf of Naples — each monograph being one or more quarto
volumes, richly illustrated, and dealing with one particular
group of animals or a section thereof. This great series, of
which over thirty monographs have now appeared, is amongst
MARINE BIOLOGICAL STATIONS 143
the most cherished possessions of every zoological library.
Besides these monographs many volumes of a smaller annual
octavo journal have been published containing shorter but
still important papers, and one of the staff also edited a
yearly summary or record of the advances made in all depart-
ments of zoology in all parts of the world.
But although the work of the Naples Zoological Station is
thus many-sided, the leading idea is certainly original
research. An investigator usually goes to Naples to make
some particular discovery, and he goes there because he knows
he will find material, facilities and environment such as exist
nowhere else in the same favourable combination. As a
result of the splendid pioneer work which the " Stazione
Zoologica " has done at Naples, every civiUzed country has
now established its own biological stations, some larger, some
smaller ; but although these are of prime importance amongst
scientific institutions in their own countries, as enabUng the
young investigator to commence research in living material
without leaving home, it must not be thought that they
detract from the advantages of a visit to the Naples station,
or affect the commanding position of that unique University
of Natural History. Notwithstanding Woods Hole, in the
United States, Roscoff in France, Plymouth and others at
home — aye, and the many others that are likely to follow —
Naples is still, or was before the war, the Mecca of the young
biologist, and will probably long remain the greatest biological
station in the world.
Anton Dohrn, who was born in 1840 and died in 1909,
used to tell that his early studies in marine biology at Messina
in the sixties first inspired him with the idea of a great
international zoological station at some favoured spot on
the shores of the Mediterranean — and he wisely chose Naples.
There were many difficulties to be overcome. He received
support in some quarters, opposition from others, and
amongst his friends who gave encouragement it is pleasant
144 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
to think there were two young Englishmen — Francis Maitland
BaKour, the great Cambridge embryologist, and the gifted
Charles Grant, the author oi Stories of Naples and the Camorra.
Dohrn was a man of great determination and self-reliance,
and when finally the official support he had expected to
receive from Germany failed him he had the courage of his
convictions and showed his faith in the project by devoting
his personal fortune to the estabhshment of the Stazione
Zoologica — the first part of which was opened in 1873, to be
followed by a second building in 1890, and a third devoted to
physiology in 1907. The upper figure on Plate X gives a
characteristic representation of Dohrn in later life.
In addition to being a man of ideas and initiative and a
great organizer and administrator, he was an eminent
zoologist and produced a large amount of first-rate original
research. The great work of his life was to prove that
Vertebrates were derived from Chsetopod worms, and that
their characteristic features were not newly acquired but were
modifications of other organs which had in the ancestral
worms some different function to perform. He regarded
Amphioxus and the Tunicata as degenerate back-sliders
which threw no light on the problem of early ancestry.
I have a vivid recollection of an occurrence during my
first meeting with Dohrn which emphasizes the point. It was
about 1880, when he visited Edinburgh to see the " Chal-
lenger " collections, and, being at that time Demonstrator of
Zoology in the university, I was deputed by my chief, Sir
Wyville Thomson, who was then in poor health, to take his
distinguished visitor round the department and especially
to see the large lecture theatre in the museum. Dohrn, who
had been told by Thomson that I was working at the " Chal-
lenger " Tunicata, said he would like to try his voice from
the platform, and sending me up to the back benches of the
theatre, improved the occasion by hurling at me in stentorian
tones a few emphatic sentences on the degeneracy of Tuni-
cates, ending up with : *' And so your Ascidia is a humbug ! '*
CHAPTER VIII
HYDROGRAPHY
We pass now to a consideration of the chief physical
characteristics of the oceans — the Earth is supposed to be
the only planet in our solar system which has oceans. These
physical characteristics may all be grouped under the general
term Hydrography, and the following may serve as a con-
venient list of the more important subdivisions : — Size,
Depth, Temperature, Salinity, Density, Pressure, Colour,
Penetration of Light, Viscosity, and Alkalinity. There
are a few other physical phenomena of the ocean which for
various reasons are omitted from this brief summary of
the subject.
Size of the Ocean.
First, as to the extent of the oceans relatively to the land,
it is known that water covers more than two-thirds of the
surface of the globe, and it has been calculated that the
volume of the dry land above sea-level is 23 millions of cubic
miles, while the volume of the ocean is many times more,
about 300 to 320 miUions of cubic miles according to different
estimates. The mean height of the land is 2,300 feet and
the average depth of the sea ll,500 feet ; but the greatest
height of the land (Mount Everest, 29,002 feet) and the
greatest known depth of the sea (5,348 fathoms = 32,089 feet)
are nearly the same, the mountain being over 5J and the
sounding a little over 6 miles. The disproportion between
land and sea is constantly increasing in consequence of the
wearing down of the land. It is supposed that the material
carried from the land to the oceans is about 3-7 cubic miles
145 L
146 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
per annum, and Sir John Murray has calculated that at this
rate the whole of the land would be transferred to the sea
in 6,340,000 years, and the " hydrosphere " would then com-
pletely cover the " lithosphere " to a depth of about 1,450
fathoms. The whole area of the sea bottom is estimated at
nearly 140 million square miles.
Depths of the Oceans.
Our knowledge of the main outlines of the contours of
the ocean floor was gained by the " Challenger " expedition
half a century ago ; and the many expeditions since, although
they have taken thousands of soundings and have filled in
many blanks and made known a few deeper holes, have
left the picture very much as it was drawn by Sir Wyville
Thomson and his colleagues in 1876. The deepest sounding
then was 4,475 fathoms ; the deepest known now is 5,348
fathoms, over six English statute miles.
If the floor of the ocean be divided into 1,000-fathom zones
of depth (0-1,000; 1,000-2,000; etc.), by far the largest area
is that which lies at depths of from 2,000 to 3,000 fathoms.
The smallest area (only about 6 per cent, of the whole) is that
at depths over 3,000 fathoms. These " Deeps," as they are
called, of over 3,000 fathoms, are relatively small depressions
scattered over various parts of the oceans, and it is appro-
priate that we should owe most of the numerical statements
and maps dealing with such matters to one of the " Chal-
lenger " naturalists, Sir John Murray, who continued his
oceanographic investigations almost to the present day — his
last cruise was in the summer of 1910 and his last publication
appeared in 1913. He died early in 1914.
Murray has defined and named 57 " Deeps," the greater
number (32) of which are in the Pacific, the deepest
of the oceans ; and the largest and one of the deepest
of them is the " Tuscarora Deep," a depression running
nearly north and south in the North Pacific to the east
of Japan. The '' Aldrich Deep" in the South Pacific con-
HYDROGRAPHY
147
tains several of the deepest soundings of over 5,000 fathoms.
With the exception of these abyssal " Deeps," the floor
of the oceans far from land is a flat or very slightly undulating
plain, the contours being distant and the gradients so slight
as to be scarcely noticeable, like those on most good railway
tracks on land. On approaching the continents, however,
the slope usually becomes steeper to form what Murray called
the " Continental Slope." (Fig. 4). Working out from the
land, the shore of the continent extends as a shallow " Con-
tinental Shelf " to about the 100-fathom line, where, at this
" Continental Edge," the steeper gradient (the " Continental
Fig. 4. — Diagrammatic Section of the Sea-bottom.
Slope") begins and descends, almost abruptly in places, to
the great abyssal undulating plain — the floor of the ocean.
In taking a series of oceanographical observations at sea,
the first requisite is to determine the locality and the depth —
where you are, and exactly how much water is below you.
If you know the exact locality, the depth may perhaps be
obtained approximately from the chart, but it is well to
verify it by direct observation with a sounding apparatus,
such as the " lead," the Lucas seK-recording machine, or
the Kelvin sounder, which indicates the distance up a tube
that the water is forced by the pressure at that depth.
There have been many types of sounding machines used
148 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
in the history of oceanography — some have a detachable
weight which is left at the sea bottom to avoid delay in
winding in the wire; in some the wire runs out over a
measuring wheel connected with a dial from which the depth
(said to be correct to 1 fathom in great depths) can be read
off as the weight touches bottom.
In some cases the sounding machine brings up in a tube or
other receptacle a small sample of the bottom deposit, which
may be sufficient to show the nature of the bottom for chart-
ing. The distribution of the submarine deposits on the
floor of the ocean in relation to depth will be considered
further on (Chapter X).
The floor of the deep sea is icy-cold, receives no light from
the sun, and is under a pressure of several tons to the square
inch — over a ton for each thousand fathoms of depth.
Temperature.
Quite apart from seasonal variations in temperature
(which are only of large amount in the temperate zones),
some parts of the ocean are naturally much warmer than
others. The surface of the sea in the tropics may be over
80° F. (the highest record is 96° F. in the Persian Gulf), and
in the polar regions is at or below freezing-point (the lowest
known being 26° F. — making the extreme recorded range
70° F.). The freezing-point of sea-water is 28° F. (-2-22° C).
The range of seasonal variation in the year in the surface
temperature of the sea is least in Arctic and Antarctic waters
and in the tropics, where it (the range) is less than 10° F.
In the southern temperate zone the range is from 10° to 30°F.,
and in the northern temperate zone from 10° to 50° F. The
range is seen at its greatest about latitude 40° in both north
and south hemispheres.
These surface temperatures are determined primarily by
the latitude, and secondarily modified by cold and warm
currents and other influences. The surface isotherms, then,
are rarely found running with much regularity east and
HYDROGRAPHY 149
west, as would be the case if the temperatures depended
solely on the latitude, but are frequently diverted somewhat
to the north or south by the influence of currents, distribu-
tion of land and water, and prevaiHng winds. For example,
in the North Atlantic the corresponding isotherms are much
lower on the American than on the European coast, as a
result of the influence of the Labrador cold current flowing
south from Davis Strait and the warm Gulf Stream flowing
north and east towards Europe.
Throughout the oceans the surface water is generally
warmer than that below, and, as a rule, deep water is cold
water. In the tropics the temperature may be over 80° F.
at the surface, and at or about freezing-point (28° F.) at the
bottom. As a general rule, the temperature decreases con-
tinuously as the depth increases, as is shown in the follow-
ing series, extracted from Murray's table of the '' Challenger "
results, of mean temperatures for the whole ocean : —
100 fathoms = 60-7° F.
200 „ =50-1'' F.
500 „ =401°F.
1,000 fathoms = 36-5° F.
1,500 „ =35-3°F.
2,200 „ =35-2°F.
There may, however, be variations from this rule due to
layers of warmer water between colder, or the reverse.
In some cases the temperature of the deeper water does
not bear the same relation to that of the surface at all times
of year. For example, off the Norwegian coast the surface
of the sea is coldest in February and warmest in August,
while at a depth of 200 fathoms in the same locality the water
is at its lowest temperature in August and at its highest in
February ; and Murray (in 1888) found the same seasonal
reversal of conditions in Upper Loch Fyne on the west
coast of Scotland.
The bottom temperatures are below 30° F. in the polar seas;
they are between 30° and 35° F. over much of the Antarctic
and the Southern Ocean, the Indian Ocean, and parts of the
Atlantic and Pacific ; between 35° and 40° F. in the North
Atlantic and parts of the Pacific. In the open oceans there
150
FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
is, then, very cold water in the deep sea all over the bottom,
and this cold water is derived from the polar regions, more
especially from the Antarctic by a slow circulation of that
cold bottom water along the floor of the oceans towards the
equatorial regions.
There are, however, certain exceptional areas with higher
temperatures in deep water. The Sargasso Sea and between
the Azores and Madeira and the Canary Isles have a higher
mean temperature down to 1,000 fathoms than any other
part of the ocean at corresponding depths. Where a barrier
to free circulation exists, such as a submarine ridge cutting off
an enclosed area from the ocean outside, the temperature of
the deeper water inside the barrier may be much higher
than that at a corresponding depth outside. For example,
the Red Sea is cut off from the Indian Ocean by a barrier at
about 200 fathoms. Down to that level it shows the same
temperatures as those of the ocean, 80° F. at 100 fathoms
and 70° F. at 200 fathoms, but at greater depths the Red
Sea maintains that temperature down to the bottom at 1,000
fathoms, while outside the barrier in the open ocean the tem-
perature decreases with the depths to 40° F. at 700 fathoms
and about 35° F. at 1,000 fathoms. The same conditions are
found in more or less enclosed areas in various parts of the
oceans, such as the Sulu Sea, at Celebes, the Azores, and
HYDROGRAPHY
151
the Faroe Channel, where the " Wyville Thomson " ridge
prevents the cold Arctic water from invading the warm area
to the south of the barrier (see Fig. 6).
Quite apart from the effect of such barriers, there are other
variations in the distribution of temperatures according to
depth, due to the circulation of special currents of different
temperature which mix very slowly with the surrounding
water. Some temperature sections through the ocean are
very regular in arrangement, the isotherms being horizontal
and arranged in order, the temperature decreasing wdth the
depth — a section through the Atlantic for some distance west
fOO
200
CO
^300
f^400-
600
600'
N
O^er 50"*
Warm
Area
Fia. 6. — Diagram showing Wyville Thomson Ridge.
of the Canaries shows that normal condition ; while other
sections are very irregular, the isothermal lines being far
from horizontal and curving up and down according as masses
of warmer or colder water are encountered. Examples of
such very irregular temperature sections are seen in various
parts of the North Atlantic. In a section from the Sargasso
Sea northwards towards the banks of Newfoundland the
isotherms, at first quite regular, rise rapidly towards the
surface as colder water is reached, and then spread rapidly
downwards in the warm Gulf Stream, to rise once more in
the colder coastal waters. A little way off the Newfoundland
Bank the isotherms, which are practically horizontal over the
152 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
Bank, turn steeply downwards to form a cold wall against
which the warmer waters of the Gulf Stream run eastwards.
Layers of water— both surface and deeper — of different
temperatures, and having also other distinguishing charac-
teristics, can be traced for considerable distances in the
ocean, by means of hydrographic observations, and their
source determined and ultimate destiny predicted ; and in
that way the distribution of various pelagic animals which
are affected by the temperature and other characteristics of
the water can be explained. Murray and Hjort have in this
way shown how the spread of the Pteropod Clione limacina
from the sea about Newfoundland towards the west coast of
Ireland depends upon the temperature of the water met
with.
If we take the temperatures in another direction through
the North Atlantic from the work of the " Michael Sars,"
we find in a section from the Sargasso Sea to the Norwegian
coast at Lofoten that the isotherm of, say, 50° F. can be
traced rising from a depth of about 400 fathoms to the
surface, showing the gradual cooling of the upper waters in
going north. A more complicated case, where waters from
three different sources, each having characteristics which are
recognizable, occur in the same section, is seen to the west of
Norway. Proceeding towards Jan Mayen, after passing
through a belt of coastal water, there is an area of warmer
and Salter Atlantic water at a temperature of about 7° C.
overlying the mass of cold Arctic water which occupies the
greater part of the deep channel and has a temperature of
3° C. in its upper part, 0° C. in the intermediate depths, and
— 1° C. at the bottom. This is an example of cold polar
water creeping along the sea bottom towards the equator ;
and, as a rule, in the open sea, the bottom isotherms are quite
independent of those on the surface. The surface isotherms
run generally in an easterly and westerly direction roughly
parallel to the equator (though they may be diverted from
this course), while the bottom isotherms run more or less
HYDROGRAPHY 153
north and south, following the contours of the continents and
of the floor of the ocean.
These are some of the more important results in regard
to the distribution of temperature in the sea discovered by
the " Challenger " expedition and by other oceanographers
since ; but it must be pointed out that there are also excep-
tional cases, or variations from the normal arrangement,
due to unusual causes, probably in some cases of periodic
occurrence. These give rise to occasional increase or diminu-
tion of known oceanic currents, and the consequent inflow of
water of unusual character into an area — and this is generally
first recognized from the strange organisms accompanying
the water.
As an example of another occasional influence affecting the
temperature of the water, there is the effect of wind. Sir
John Murray, and others since, have shown the well-marked
effect of prevalent winds upon the distribution of tempera-
tures in the Scottish lochs or in narrow fjord-like arms of
the sea. Murray, for example, showed that in Loch Lochy,
in April, 1887, after a south-west gale, the warmer surface
water was driven away from the south end of the loch and
was piled up at the north end, displacing colder water down
to a depth of 10 fathoms. Water of intermediate tempera-
ture was also carried away from the south end and accumu-
lated farther north down to a depth of 25 fathoms, so as to
allow colder bottom water to come to the surface at the south
end of the loch. In Loch Ness, on the same occasion, he
found even a more extreme condition, where the bodies of
water of three temperatures formed almost vertical columns,
the warmer at the leeward (north) end, the colder at the
windward (south), and the water of intermediate temperature
in the middle of the loch (see Fig. 7).
A similar effect may be produced on the sea coast where a
strong off-shore wind will carry out the surface water, with
its contained organisms, and so allow deeper water to well up
close inshore (Fig. 8) . Even in the open ocean, in places and
154
FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
under special conditions, vertical currents may be formed,
causing deeper layers of colder water, with their contained
organisms, to rise to the surface.
Fig. 7. — Diagram showing effect of Wind on distribution of
Temperatures in Loch Ness. {After Murray.)
Salinity.
As all the water running off the land into the sea dissolves
and carries with it materials from the rocks and the soil, it
is probable that the ocean contains samples, even if only
minute traces, of every mineral substance found on earth.
Over thirty of the known elements have been found in sea-
water, and more than a dozen of these are in such quantity
mnd
Fig. 8. — Diagram showing effect of Off-'and On-shore Winds at Sea.
as to be of real importance. These contained " salts " of
sea-water amount on the average to thirty-five parts in
a thousand parts of water, and are chiefly chlorides and
sulphates of sodium, magnesium, potassium and calcium.
Chloride of sodium (common salt) makes up more than three-
HYDROGRAPHY
155
fourths of the whole, whereas in the water of rivers bearing
material from the land to the sea it only amounts on the
average to about 2 per cent, of the dissolved salts. On the
other hand, carbonates, of which only minute quantities are
present in the sea, make up over half the total in the case
of river-water. It is these and other differences that have
given rise to the view that the saltness of the sea is not due
merely to the dissolved salts now being conveyed from the
land to the sea, and accumulated there throughout the ages
as the result of the constant evaporation of pure fresh water
from the surface, but may be due also in part to salts present
in the primeval ocean when condensation first took place
on the globe. We know little or nothing, however, of the
proportions in which such salts may have been present in
the earliest oceans, and as little of the chemical changes
which may have taken place in the dissolved salts accumu-
lating in the sea during geological ages.
The volume of the total salts in the sea has been calculated
to be 4,800,000 cubic miles ; and one of the most recent
estimates of the age of oceans on the earth (not necessarily
the present ones) is nearly a hundred million years.
The principal salts present in average sea-water are usually
stated (from Dittmar's " Challenger " results) to be as
follows : — •
Sodium chloride .
Magnesium chloride
Magnesium sulphate
Calcium sulphate
Potassium sulphate
Calcium carbonate
Magnesium bromide
35 000
27-213 parts per 1,000
. 3-807
. 1-658
1-260
0-863
0123
. 0076
It is, however, probable that by far the greater part of
these materials are not present in the above form combined
as salts, but are dissociated as " ions," and therefore a more
correct statement of the constitution of the thirty-five parts
156
FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
contained in the thousand of sea-water is the following list
given by Murray and others : —
Na
Mg
Ca
K
CI
SO4
CO 3
Br
10-722 parts in 1,000 of sea-water.
1-316
0420
0-382
19-324
2-696
0-074
0066
35000
In addition to these principal constituents of sea-salt,
there are a few other elements (such as silicon and phos-
phorus) present in smaller quantity, but still of great import-
ance in connection with living organisms and the general
metabolism of the ocean. It is obvious, when we consider
the life of animals and plants in the sea, that some of these
salts are constantly being withdrawn from the water to form
shells and skeletons and other hard parts, and are again later
on being returned to the sea by solution. There is thus a
perpetual interchange or circulation of such materials as
calcium and silica, and there may also be vast accumulations
formed of, for example, carbonate of lime in the deposits
forming on the floor of the ocean. These are by no means
the only materials withdrawn from the water by the action of
living organisms and by chemical reactions at the sea bottom.
Three gases dissolved in sea-water — oxygen, nitrogen, and
carbon dioxide — are of primary importance in connection
with living organisms. The sea absorbs air from the atmo-
sphere, but dissolves a larger proportion (about 34 per cent.)
of oxygen than of nitrogen. Moreover, as water at a lower
temperature absorbs more gas, the cold polar waters may
contain nearly twice as much of the dissolved gases as the
warm tropical water. As oxygen is constantly being used
up by animals, it must constantly be renewed, and as it is
present in the water at all depths (except in the case of
HYDROGRAPHY 157
enclosed deep basins like the Black Sea where in the bottom
waters there is a marked deficiency of oxygen and a large
production of sulphuretted hydrogen), there must be suffic-
ient circulation of the bottom waters to convey the oxygen
into the abysses.
In addition to what is present in combination, carbon
dioxide is found free in small and variable quantities in sea-
water. There is a free interchange of carbon dioxide between
the surface of the sea and the atmosphere, and this tends
to regulate the amount in the water, which, however, varies
considerably from time to time, as there are great differences
in the amounts used and produced by plants and animals
respectively in different parts of the sea and at different times
of year.
Various methods have been employed to determine the
salinity of sea-water, such as evaporating, drying, and
weighing the salts ; ascertaining the specific gravity or weight
relatively to fresh water, at a definite temperature, such as
60° F. ; or estimating the amount of chlorine by titration
and calculating from that the total salts present, as the ratio
of the salts to each other is practically constant although the
total quantity may vary from as much as 39 parts in 1,000
down to 31 — or any amount less close to land or in estuaries.
Even in the North Atlantic (an ocean of relatively high
salinity) regions differ greatly. For example, in the Sargasso
Sea the salinity may be from 37 to 38 parts per thousand, at
the Azores 36, off the west of Ireland 35, and from 34 down
to 31 close to Newfoundland. The highest records known
(over 39 %o) are in the Eastern Mediterranean and the
Northern Red Sea, where the evaporation is great and the
rainfall small in amount.
In the open sea, as a general rule, the saHnity diminishes
from the surface downwards to about 1,000 fathoms, but in
still greater depths there is generally salter water at the
bottom. Near land, however, there may in places be a layer
of fresh, or almost fresh, water on the surface. This is well
158 FOUNDERS OP OCEANOGRAPHY
marked at the upper ends of fjords in Norway and in some
of the Scottish sea-lochs, where the water from a stream may
lie on the surface of the salter sea-water, without mixing, to
such an extent that it is drinkable as fresh water.
Currents may be traced in the sea for considerable dis-
tances by their salinity. At the Strait of Gibraltar a strong
surface current of colder and less saline water flows in from
the Atlantic to make up for the large amount of evaporation
in the Mediterranean, and a return current of warmer and
Salter water flows out along the bottom, over the barrier at
a depth of about 100 fathoms, into the Atlantic, where it
can be traced for some distance. Similar interchanges are
known in other parts of the world, and the presence of these
currents of different temperatures and salinity has a pro-
found effect upon the distribution of many pelagic animals.
In brief, it may be stated that the distribution of marine
organisms depends mainly upon the temperature of the water,
the temperature in any region depends largely upon the
existence of currents of different salinities and temperatures,
these currents are caused mainly by prevalent winds, the
winds are due to differences of barometric pressure, and these
pressures depend finally upon the action of the sun's rays.
The origin, course, and effect of a typical warm current
of high salinity (the Gulf Stream) will be dealt with in more
detail in the next chapter.
Density.
A salinity of 35 parts per thousand corresponds to a density
or specific gravity of 1-026 (fresh water being taken as 1), and
the increase in density (and reduction in temperature) with
increasing depth in the ocean is seen in the following series : —
Surface density = 1025.
100 fathoms „ = 1026 (temp. = 60-7° F.).
300 „ „ = 1027( „ = 44-7° F.).
2,000 „ „ == 1-028 ( „ =35-2°F.).
A familiar effect of difference in specific gravity is seen in
the increased buoyancy of a loaded vessel on entering the
HYDROGEAPHY 159
sea from a river. A submarine is less buoyant, when passing
from the sea at a density of 1-026 into fresh water, by 26 tons
in a ^thousand, and vice versa. So that when a submarine
of 1,000 tons leaves a river for the sea, she must take in an
extra 26 tons of ballast to keep her down, and when she
returns she must get rid of 26 tons, or she will sink deeper in
the fresh water.
It has been pointed out by Buchanan that coastal waters
are areas of minimum density, while the areas of maximum
surface density are in the centres of the five tropical oceans,
North and South Atlantic, North and South Pacific, and
Indian Ocean. From these areas the denser surface water
flows outwards in all directions.
Where layers of water of different densities and tempera-
tures lie one upon another, the " discontinuity " line is often
the boundary between two very different assemblages of
organisms. It may also be the layer along which submarine
waves are formed, as has been shown by Dr. Otto Pettersson
on the west coast of Sweden, where these submarine waves
of inflowing Salter " Bank " water from the North Sea,
underneath the surface fresher coastal water, bring shoals of
herrings to constitute the important winter fisheries of the
Skagerak.
Pressure.
We exist at the sea-level under the pressure of one atmo-
sphere, which amounts to nearly 15 lb. on the square
inch. At any depth in the sea there is the added weight of
the water above, so the pressure increases greatly with the
depth. A cubic foot of sea- water weighs 64 lb., and the
pressure increases by one additional atmosphere for each
10 metres (or 33 feet) in depth — at 1,000 metres the pressure
is that of 100 atmospheres. A diver at a depth of 30 fathoms
sustains a pressure of 80 lb. per square inch, and at the
greatest depths of over six miles the pressure is about
6J tons on every square inch.
160 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
Water is almost incompressible — under one additional
atmosphere it is compressed to the extent of only one-twenty-
thousandth of its bulk, and this very slight compressibility
decreases with increase of pressure. At 4,000 metres (2,187
fathoms) water becomes only 1-75 per cent, heavier, and a
solid mass of iron of 1,000 grams shows at 4,000 metres only
the insignificant difference of 0-3 per cent, in weight. Sub-
stances are thus seen to be practically as heavy in deep
water as in shallow, and will sink as rapidly. A brass
weight " messenger " sent down a line to close some apparatus
takes just four times as long to reach its objective at 2,000
metres as it does to arrive at 500 metres. Any object that
sinks in a foot of water will go to the bottom whatever the
depth is ; and the floor of the ocean at great depths is
covered with delicate shells, which are very light and yet
have sunk from the surface to the bottom. Solid objects,
or those that are freely permeable to the water, so that the
pressure can be equalised throughout, such as the body of
an animal, remain practically unchanged ; but substances
with internal cavities containing air are strongly compressed
and distorted under the enormous pressure of tons on the
square inch at great depths, and may collapse into fragments.
For example, the beam of the " Challenger " trawl came up
from its first deep-sea trip with the wood so much com-
pressed that the denser knots stood out from the surface,
and Mr. Buchanan tells how a hollow brass cylinder with
closed ends had been squeezed flat, and thermometers and
closed glass tubes, wrapped up in cloth and protected by a
copper case, came up crushed to powder, from a depth of
3,000 fathoms. Sir Wyville Thomson called this collapse
under pressure an " implosion."
These facts completely dispose of the popular delusion
that, on account of the great and increasing pressure, water
in the sea becomes denser and denser with increase of depth,
and that all objects which sink at the surface — ships and men,
iron, lead, and gold ~" find their level " and there remain
HYDROGRAPHY 161
suspended at the various depths. Su? John Murray, writing
in 1913 {The Ocean, p. 96) in regard to this mj^h, said : —
" Within the past year the writer has often been asked if
the ' Titanic ' really reached the bottom in a depth of three
miles. During the ' Challenger ' expedition, after a fuaeral
at sea, the bluejackets sent a deputation aft to ask if ' Bill *
would go right to the bottom when committed to the deep
with a shot attached to his feet, or would he ' find his level '
and there float about for evermore ? Another question was,
if ' Bill ' really did go to the bottom, what would he be like
on reaching bottom at four or five miles ?
" A living rabbit was on one occasion sent down to over
500 fathoms on a line. The body came up very little altered
to all appearance, the bones were all intact, and the lungs
were the only viscera that seemed to be affected by the
pressure. Even at 3,000 fathoms a human body would be
little altered in outward appearance.
" The ' Titanic ' is probably now lying on the bottom in
a very Httle altered condition : only those parts of the struc-
ture would be burst inwards (' imploded ') into which water
could not enter rapidly enough to equalize the pressure on
the two sides, say, of an iron plate. As the vessel sank
deeper and deeper, the corks in all the wine and beer bottles
would be driven in if not quite full, and ultimately every
hermetically closed chamber or recess would be im-
ploded."
One interesting effect of the pressure is that if deep-sea
animals are brought up too rapidly to the surface, they are
killed by the disorganization of their tissues, due to the release
from pressure, and if deep-sea fishes accidentally get out of
their accustomed depth, and pressure, the expansion of the
air in their swim -bladders renders them so buoyant that they
continue to tumble upwards to the surface, helpless, and
eventually kiUed by the distension of their bodies and the
disorganization of their tissues, due to the diminished pressure.
They die a violent death from falling upwards.
M
162 FOUNDERS 0¥ OCEANOGRAPHY
Colour and Light in the Sea.
Some of the varied colours of the sea can be explained, but
we probably do not yet fully understand them all. Pure
water has in bulk a clear blue colour, which is an optical
effect due to the blue rays of the sun's light being less
absorbed than the red rays, and therefore the characteristic
colour of the open ocean, where there is no disturbing influ-
ence, is blue. Variations in the tint of blue and the occurrence
of other colours, such as green, yellow, and grey, are due to
impurities in the water or minute organisms present in great
quantity. Green and yellow tints of different intensities
occur near land, the olive-green of the Antarctic is caused
by enormous quantities of Diatoms suspended in the water,
and the deep blue round coral reefs is said to be due to car-
bonate of lime in solution. Other local or temporary con-
ditions may affect the colour profoundly — for example, a
plague of minute Dinoflagellates (Gonyaulax^ etc.) may dis-
colour the sea red for miles.
The light rays from the sun penetrate the sea to varying
depths, according to their nature and the clearness of the
water, the red rays being absorbed first and the blue pene-
trating more deeply. The effects of the light upon a photo-
graphic plate have been traced down to 300 fathoms off
Capri, in the Mediterranean ; and, in the Atlantic, Helland-
Hansen's light-recording apparatus showed light-rays
affecting the plate on an exposure of eighty minutes at
1,000 metres (547 fms.), but at 1,700 metres the plates were
not affected after an exposure of two hours. Sir John
Murray therefore considers the " photic zone " to be in
general the upper 500 fathoms in the open sea. Near land
and in oceanic water containing impurities or many minute
organisms the light penetrates to lesser depths.
The degree of penetration of the light -rays has a profound
effect upon the plants and animals of the sea. Green Algae,
which are only found near the surface, assimilate their neces-
HYDROGRAPHY 163
sary food matters only in yellow light, which does not pene-
trate far, while Red Algae, which live in deeper water,
assimilate better in the blue Hght, which reaches lower
depths.
The colours of some animals seem to be related to the
amount of light at the depths in which they live. On Sir
John Murray's cruise in the " Michael Sars," in 1910,
Dr. Hjort made a detailed investigation of the colours of the
Atlantic pelagic fishes in relation to their distribution in
depth, and his results show that the surface fishes down to
about 150 metres are colourless ; from 300 to 500 metres the
fishes are silvery or grey ; and at depths of 1,000 to 2,000
metres they are black or dark-coloured, and are associated
with red-coloured Crustaceans, which at that depth would
lose their colour and appear black. These prawn-like
Crustacea, found in various parts of the oceans at depths of
300 fathoms and more, only look red when red light-rays fall
upon them, and as no red rays penetrate so far through the
water, these and other brightly coloured deep-sea animals
in their natural habitat must appear dark, and probably
quite inconspicuous, and only show up in their bright colours
when brought to the surface.
Many of the surface animals, apart from fishes, are blue or
violet, and tone in with the sea around them, while others
down to 50 fathoms or so are gelatinous and quite transparent.
Some of the surface animals — fish, crabs, and others — of the
Sargasso Sea are coloured, and even shaped, so as to resemble
parts of the " Gulf -weed " on which they Hve, and so become
inconspicuous in their natural surroundings.
Many pelagic animals respond to different degrees of inten-
sity of sunlight. Some Radiolaria in tropical seas flourish
on the surface, others at varying depths below in what may
be regarded as a subdued twihght, and one section of the
group, the Phaeodaria (Challengerida) live only at a consider-
able depth, over 400 fathoms, probably for the most part
below the photic zone. Other members of the plankton
164 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
with some power of locomotion (such as Sagitta) descend to
a moderate depth, under twilight conditions, during bright
dayHght, and come to the surface at night. Michael, and also
Esterley and others working on the Californian coast, have
demonstrated this diurnal migration in relation to light for
many of the larger and more active members of the plankton,
and the general principle of avoiding bright sunlight prob-
ably holds true for most, if not all, of the zoo-plankton. The
largest catches of plankton are obtained, in most seas, not
on the surface, but at a depth of 5 to 10 fathoms. Moreover,
some of the bottom-living animals, such as Amphipods,
Cumacea, and other higher Crustacea, are known to come to
the surface at night.
Many of the " bathypelagic " animals which remain below
the photic zone show peculiar adaptations to the absence of
sunlight, such as the characteristic red colour, modification
or loss of eyes, presence of special light -producing organs, and
the development of tactile appendages.
Viscosity.
The viscosity of sea-water — the resistance it offers to a
body falling through it — varies greatly with the temperature,
and is much greater in cold than in warm water. Conse-
quently, in polar seas, where the viscosity is great, there is
little or no change in the amount in passing from the surface
to the bottom, while in the tropics the small degree of vis-
cosity in the warm surface water rapidly increases in passing
to deeper and colder layers — as the temperature falls the
viscosity increases.
Taking the value of the viscosity of pure water at freezing-
point as being 100, then in sea- water having a salinity of
35%o (per'mille) the viscosity at a few temperatures such as
would be met with in the tropics between surface water of
over 80° F. and the cold bottom water would increase, as
shown in this table (adapted from Murray) : —
HYDROGRAPHY
165
Temp.
C.
Viscosity
at 35%o sal.
Specific gravity
at 35®/oo sal.
30°
47
21-76
20°
59
24-79
10°
76
26-98
0°
103
2813
In falling a little over 20 centigrade degrees the viscosity is
nearly doubled. At, say, 500 fathoms (the lower limit of
the photic zone) in the tropics, where the temperature is, say,
40° F., the viscosity is twice as great as at the surface, where
the temperature is, say, 80° F. Therefore planktonic organ-
isms would sink twice as fast at the surface as at 500 fathoms,
and consequently, to meet this difficulty, some of them have
developed devices to increase their surface resistance, or
others to diminish their specific gravity, such as oil globules
and gas bubbles, and increase of branched or flattened
appendages, along with a general reduction in size and weight.
Polar animals obviously do not require these adaptations to
rapid variations in viscosity so much as those inhabiting the
warmer seas, and consequently " suspension organs " are
more characteristic of the latter.
It wiU be noticed from the table above that the specific
gravity of the water also increases somewhat with the decrease
of temperature in deeper water. This, along with the
increase of viscosity may be a help to a slowly sinking
organism in delaying its progress downwards.
Alkalinity.
The general alkaHnity of sea -water is due to the presence of
the hydroxides of magnesium and calcium, but the degree of
alkaUnity varies greatly from time to time and from place
to place, and depends to some extent at least upon the
amount of free carbon dioxide present in the water. Our
166 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
knowledge of the variations in alkalinity throughout the year
has been increased greatly of late years by the work of the
Scandinavians, Palitzsch, Witting, and Sorensen, of the late
A. G. Mayer at the Carnegie Institute in the United States,
and of the late Benjamin Moore and others working in the
Irish Sea. The sea around the Isle of Man was noticed more
than ten years ago (in the course of our plankton work at
Port Erin) to be a good deal more alkaline in spring (say
April) than it is in summer (say July) ; and consequently,
during the years 1912 to 1914, Professor B. Moore and his
assistants undertook a detailed investigation at the Port Erin
Biological Station, and by examining samples of the sea-
water periodically, were able to show that there were marked
variations in the hydrogen-ion concentration, as indicated
by the relative degree of alkalinity, which gets low in summer
increases somewhat in autumn, and then decreases rapidly to
disappear practically during the winter ; and then, after
several months of a minimum, begins to come into evidence
again in March, and rapidly rises to its maximum in April or
May. This periodic change in alkalinity is seen to correspond
roughly with the changes in the living microscopic contents
of the sea represented by the phyto -plankton annual curve,
and the connection between the two phenomena is seen
when we realize that these changes in the alkalinity of the
water are due to the relative absence of carbon dioxide. In
early spring the rapidly developing myriads of Diatoms in
their metabolic processes use up the store of carbon dioxide
accumulated during the winter, or derived from the bi-
carbonates of calcium and magnesium, and so increase the
alkalinity of the water, until the maximum of alkalinity,
due to the fixation of the carbon and the reduction in the
amount of carbon dioxide present, corresponds with the crest
of the phyto -plankton curve in, say, April or May.
Testing the alkalinity of the sea- water may therefore be
said to be merely ascertaining and measuring the results of
the photosynthetic activity of the great phyto -plankton rise
in spring due probably to the daily increase of sunlight.
HYDROGRAPHY 167
The marine biologists of the Carnegie Institute at Washing-
ton have made some recent contributions to the subject by
taking observations on the alkalinity of the open sea (deter-
mined by hydrogen -ion concentration), during which they
found in tropical mid-Pacific a sudden change to acidity in
a current running eastwards. Now in the Atlantic, the Gulf
Stream and tropical Atlantic waters generally are much
more alkaline than the colder coastal water running south
from the Gulf of St. Lawrence. That is, the colder Arctic
water has more carbon dioxide. This suggests that the
Pacific easterly set may be due to deeper water containing
more carbon dioxide (= acidity), coming to the surface at
that point. The alkalinity of the sea-water can be deter-
mined rapidly by mixing the sample with a few drops of an
indicator and observing the change of colour ; and this
method of detecting ocean currents by observing the
hydrogen-ion concentration of the water might be useful
to navigators as showing the time of entrance to a known
current.
Other Physical Characters.
The phenomena of tides, due primarily to astronomical
causes, the formation of waves, the presence and movements
of seiches (tidal, temperature, etc.), and the circulation of
the atmosphere and other meteorological changes, although
all of some oceanographic importance, need not be dealt
with in this outline of hydrography. To discuss all these
subjects adequately would require far more space than is
available in the present book.
Some Effects upon Life in the Sea.
I may conclude this chapter with a brief statement as
to the bearing of some of these physical characters of the sea
upon the distribution and habits of some living organisms.
1. Depth is a prime factor in the distribution of marine
plants and animals. There are httoral, shallow- water, and
168 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
deep-sea forms, and comparatively few species have a wide
bathymetrical range.
2. Temperature has a profound effect upon the distribution
of most marine organisms. As notable examples on a large
scale may be given the distribution of coral reefs, which are
only found in tropical seas, where the temperature through-
out the year is not lower than 68° F. ; and the case of sea-
fisheries, many of which are determined by the temperature
of the water in which the fishes live. Rise of temperature
increases the rate of metabolism in an organism, and this
probably has far-reaching effects in the sea. Then, again,
the secretion of carbonate of lime by marine animals is greatly
increased by a rise of temperature.
3. Salinity, etc. Some animals can only exist in water of
a certain density, some only deposit their eggs under certain
conditions of salinity, and the flotation and further develop-
ment of the eggs and later stages of many of our food-fishes
depends upon the specific gravity of the water. Moore,
Roaf, and others, in their work at the Port Erin Biological
Station, have shown that the chemical characteristics (hydro-
gen-ion concentration or alkahnity) of the sea have a pro-
found effect upon the development of embryos and larvae.
The shoaling movements of the herring, which give rise to
important fisheries, take place successively farther and
farther south on the east coast of Britain during summer
and autumn, and this is associated with the saHnity of the
sea, as Atlantic water of 35^/oo and temperature 13° to 15° C.
moves south from the Shetlands towards the EngHsh
Channel. The winter herring of the Skager-Rack do not
frequent Atlantic water, but are found in the " Bank " water
of 32<^/oo to 33^/oo. Consequently, when there is too much
Atlantic water entering the Skager-Rack, no winter herring
fishery takes place.
4. Pressure is obviously an important factor in the life of
deep-sea animals, and probably in varying degree determines
the distribution of many others at lesser depths.
HYDROGRAPHY 169
6. Sunlight is all-important in connection with photo-
synthesis by Diatoms and other plants in the sea. Its effect
is also evident in the heliotropic movements of Copepoda
and many other free-swimming animals, and in the vertical
rise and fall of plankton. All the energy made use of by-
organisms is ultimately derived from the energy of solar
radiation. There appears to be some connection between
the periodic changes in solar energy indicated by '' sunspots "
and variations in the strength of oceanic currents, and these
in their turn affect some of the periodic fisheries, such as the
great Norwegian cod fisheries at Lofoten.
6. In addition to these large and obvious factors affecting
the distribution of marine organisms, it seems probable that
some very slight modifications in the physical condition of
sea-water may have a curious effect upon their life and
prosperity. Some animals will live healthily in one tank in
a biological station and not in another; the proximity of
other animals may in some cases be an advantage and in
others the reverse ; it is even possible that meteorological
conditions may exercise some subtle influence upon animals
on the sea bottom through several fathoms of water, as in
the following case, which seems well established : — Crabs and
lobsters at Port Erin are never caught in quantity during
northerly to easterly winds and in cold dry weather, but if
the wind goes round to the south-west and it becomes warmer
and damper, the crabs " travel," as the fishermen say, and
are then caught in the creels in abundance.
CHAPTER IX
OCEAN CURRENTS— THE GULF STREAM
There are several distinct types of movement of the
water in the oceans : —
1. The Tidal Wave (caused by the attraction of the sun
and moon), which rises and falls every 12 J hours, and is only
seen in its unmodified form in the great Southern Ocean,
where it has a free and uninterrupted course around the
globe. This gives rise to branch waves that extend up the
oceans between the continents, and may become very much
compUcated where they meet with obstruction. The rise
and fall of the tidal wave gives origin to tidal currents in
shallow water near land, or over oceanic shoals. Such tidal
currents have been detected down to the considerable depth
of 400 fathoms in the open ocean. Higher tides (" spring
tides ") occur at the time of full moon and new moon, and
less high (" neap tides ") at the time of the first and third
quarters of the moon. Further details are more a matter
for the astronomer than the oceanographer.
2. Waves and Storms and drift of surface water are
caused by the wind. As proof of the existence of surface
drifts for great distances, we have the evidence of golf -balls
from Scotland found at the Lofoten islands in the north of
Norway, and Siberian drift-wood carried into the Norwegian
seas. The waves of the open sea may give rise to a current
on approaching a shore. As a general rule, what Murray
has called the " mud-line," at a depth of about 100 fathoms
on the coast of a continent facing the open sea, is the
region where the finest particles are undisturbed by wave
action, but it is said that there is evidence of waves affecting
170
OCEAN CURRENTS 171
the bottom deposit down to a depth of about 200 fathoms.
3. Seiches are oscillations in a body of water in an enclosed
basin or bay, or even in the open ocean, where the water is
caused to swing to and fro round one or more pivots or
" nodes." Temperature seiches and density seiches may
also occur beneath the surface in a body of water where
there is a " discontinuity layer " causing an abrupt change
in temperature or density of the water above and below.
The lower layer may then swing backwards and forwards
without causing movements at the surface.
4. Currents. True ocean currents are bodies of water
of definite constitution, often differing markedly from the
surrounding water, through which they flow like a river
without much mixing and retaining a clearly defined border
(as in the case of the Gulf Stream). Ocean currents are all
in the long run due to the energy derived from the sun, but
the more immediate causes may be stated as —
(1) The sun's heat causing differences of temperature,
(2) Differences in amount of evaporation and of rainfall,
and hence of density of the water.
(3) Prevalent winds. The direct frictional action of the
wind is a prime factor in oceanic circulation.
As these causes have much the same action in each of
the three great oceanic areas —the Atlantic, the Pacific, and
the Indian Ocean — they give rise to comparable systems of
currents, modified in each case by local factors, such as the
shape of the land. In the Atlantic, for example, the chief
oceanic currents describe a figure of eight (8) moving, as a
result of the rotation of the earth, clockwise to the north — •
east — south in the North Atlantic, and counter-clockwise to
the south — east — north in the ^outh Atlantic, the central
crossing being in the interval between the great North and
South Equatorial currents which flow westwards before the
trade- winds. In this interval lies the Counter-Equatorial
current flowing eastwards to the African coast, where it
becomes the Guinea current. (See Fig. 9.)
172
FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
The Gulf Stream, which has its origin in these great
equatorial currents, may be taken for more detailed descrip-
tion, as it is certainly the most celebrated and best known
of all oceanic currents. The trade- winds blowing across the
North Atlantic from the west coast of Africa carry the
North Equatorial current from about Cape Verde towards
Fig. 9. — Simplified Map of Currents of the North Atlantic. — A.D.
Atlantic Drift, C.C. Counter Equatorial Current, G.S. Gulf Stream, L.C.
Labrador Current, N.E.C. North Equatorial Current, S.E.C. South
Equatorial Current, S.S. Sargasso Sea.
the West Indies and the Caribbean Sea, where it is reinforced
by a branch from the South Equatorial current. This
equatorial water, heated by the tropical sun and rendered
Salter by evaporation, becomes heaped up against the Central
American coast. The levels of the Caribbean Sea and the
GuH of Mexico are thus raised, and this hot, salt water
OCEAN CURRENTS 173
pouring in from the south-east escapes through the Strait
of Florida as a river 50 miles wide, 350 fathoms deep,
flowing at five miles an hour. This is the celebrated '' Gulf
Stream," to which, directly or indirectly, we owe the genial
climate of North-west Europe as compared with correspond-
ing latitudes in North America. In latitude 58° N. off the
Hebrides, in July the temperature of the sea is 13° C.
(55-4° F.), while at the same latitude off the coast of Labrador,
in the same month, the temperature is 4-5° C. (40-1° F.).
Since the advantages in cUmate enjoyed by the eastern
borders of the North Atlantic are due, even if indirectly,
to the Gulf Stream, the origin, extent, and distribution of
that great current must be matters not only of scientific but
of surpassing popular interest.
The Gulf Stream has been recognized by navigators since
very early times. It is indicated on a seventeenth-century
map, and Benjamin Franklin, in 1770, pubHshed a well-
known representation of it, which has been reproduced in
many books. '* There is a river in the ocean " are the words
with which Captain M. F. Maury commenced the chapter on
the Gulf Stream in his Bhysical Geography of the Sea (1860),
and he goes on to tell us that its banks and its bottom are
of cold water, while its current is warm, and it is more rapid
than the Mississippi or the Amazon, and its volume more than
a thousand times greater. Its waters are not only warmer
but are Salter and of a bluer colour than those of the sea
through which they flow. It arises, as a " gulf stream,"
in the Gulf of Mexico, flows out to the Atlantic by the Florida
Pass, and runs in a northerly course past Cape Hatteras
towards the Banks of Newfoundland, where it turns more
to the east, gradually widening and losing speed and heat
as it goes. It is 32 miles wide where it emerges from
the Narrows of Bemini, between Florida and the Bahamas,
and flows with a velocity of 4 knots ; off Cape Hatteras
it has widened to 75 miles and slackened to 3 knots,
while to the south of the Great Bank of Newfound-
174 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
land its rate is only IJ miles an hour. Though thus
changing in cross-section and speed, it is said to preserve
its individuality and distinctive character for over 3,000
miles. Off the coast of North Carolina the edge of the stream
is still sharply marked, the clear indigo blue of the warmer
water abutting against the dull green of the coastal water
of the United States and forming a line that is visible to
the eye of the passing sailor. Even as far north as the Banks
of Newfoundland the temperature of the Gulf Stream water is
from 20° to 30° F. higher than that of the surrounding sea.
The Gulf Stream, however, is not constant in volume
and in position. It shows seasonal and even annual varia-
tions. Petermann (1870) insisted on the seasonal variations
in the strength of the Gulf Stream, and this has been fully
established since by H. N. Dickson. The limit of its
northern edge off Cape Race, Newfoundland, is in March
about latitude 40° to 41°, and in September about latitude
45° to 46°. It is pushed down to the south by the colder
water in winter, and then expands to the north in summer.
Its drift eastward across the Atlantic towards Europe is
strongest in summer. It shows, moreover, pulsations
extending over periods of years, the effects of which
in the north of Europe can be traced, according to the
Scandinavian investigators, in their weather, their harvests
and their sea-fisheries.
Benjamin Franklin attributed the Gulf Stream to the
action of the trade -winds, and this was the prevalent view
amongst seafaring men until Captain Maury in 1860 put
forward the view that the winds were insufficient to produce
the effect, and that the true cause of the strong current of
tropical water of high salinity was to be found in the difference
of specific gravity and of temperature between the water
in the Gulf of Mexico and in the Atlantic outside. But the
high salinity would render the Gulf water heavier and the
high temperature causes it to be lighter, so these two
characteristics would tend to counteract, and the resulting
OCEAN CURRENTS 175
effect could only be due to whatever difference remained.
James CroU (1870), the Scottish geologist, was the first
to criticize Maiu^y's theory and to show that his causes
were inadequate and contradictory. W. B. Carpenter in
1870 advanced the view that the Gulf Stream was only a
special case of the general oceanic circulation due to cooling
and sinking at the poles and heating at the tropics. Wyville
Thomson, in the Depths of the Sea (1872), disputes this, and
reverts to Sir John Herschel's opinion (1846) that the heat-
distribution of the North Atlantic is due to the Gulf Stream,
and that that current is mainly caused by the trade and
anti-trade winds.
It is now known, however, that the Gulf Stream is not
an independent phenomenon, but is a part of the general
system of surface circulation of the ocean, a system in which
the currents (diverted to the east, as a result of the rotation
of the earth, in their course northwards from the equator)
flow clockwise in the North Atlantic around a central
relatively calm area, the Sargasso Sea, in which sea-weeds
and other floating objects accumulate.
We have seen that the cause of the Gulf Stream can be
traced back to the great north equatorial current which
flows from east to west and forms the southern boundary of
the Sargasso Sea. This magnificent equatorial stream,
driven across the Atlantic by the trade-winds, conveys such
an enormous body of warm and relatively salt water into
the Caribbean Sea and the GuK of Mexico as to raise the
level of these seas by several inches above that of the
Atlantic, before emerging as the GuK Stream through the
narrow Strait of Florida at a temperature of 86° F.
The officers of the United States Coast Survey have made
many hydrographic sections across the Gulf Stream area
from Havana, in the Gulf of Mexico, to Cape Cod, Massa-
chusetts, and we owe the most detailed modern information to
their work. When followed on its easterly course it is found
that the GuK Stream as a definite current or " river in the
176 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
ocean " gradually dies away and is finally lost about latitude
45° opposite the Newfoundland banks, and it is generally
considered that the surface drift which continues its influence
farther to the north and east is due to the anti-trade south-
west winds.
The Labrador cold current passes down south inside the
Gulf Stream along the New England coasts to CaroHna,
forming a " cold wall " which dips under the Gulf Stream as
it issues from the Strait of Florida. This " cold wall "
of the oceanographers, as seen, for example, near the New-
foundland banks, is a remarkable phenomenon. The bottom
water over the banks at the latitude of Paris is as cold as
in polar seas (say, — 1*5° C), while outside the banks the
warm salt Gulf Stream water has a temperature of over
16° C. Where the waters adjoin the curves of temperature
and salinity are closely placed and run at a high angle.
What is left of the Gulf Stream when it reaches mid-
Atlantic is no longer a continuous body of water, but is
composed of separate bands and swirls, expanding fan-like
and changing from time to time. Nansen and Helland-
Hansen found great variations from year to year in the
temperature of what they recognize as Gulf Stream water
in the Norwegian Sea, and these cause variations in the
temperature of the air, in the year's harvest, in the growth
of trees, and in the presence of shoals of fishes on the
Norwegian coast. There is even said to be a correspondence
from year to year between the temperature of the sea in
February and the flowering of the Coltsfoot {Tussilago
farfara) in April.
Some hydrographers state that no GuK Stream water
reaches Europe ; that in March it attains the Azores at
farthest, and in November nearly to Spain, but always
curves round to the south to surround the Sargasso Sea;
and that north of the true GuK Stream the " Atlantic
Drift " arises, due in part no doubt to prevalent south-west
winds, and so brings warmer and denser water to our seas
OCEAN CURRENTS 177
from the sub -tropical Atlantic ; while Le Danois, in France,
has recently stated that the Gulf Stream does not extend
beyond the Sargasso Sea, and that beyond that there is
merely a permeation of the North Atlantic by salter and
warmer water expanded as the effect of the tropical sun on
the equatorial waters — but the effect upon European seas
is the same whichever view we adopt, and it matters little
whether we call the water that reaches our western shores
"Gulf Stream" or "Atlantic Drift." We are indebted
directly or indirectly for the amenities we enjoy on the
eastern shores of the Atlantic to that mighty river which
issues from the Guff of Mexico and spreads its beneficent
influence over the North Atlantic, and is certainly one of
the greatest of oceanographic phenomena.
We have seen that the Guff Stream does not reach mid-
Atlantic as a continuous body of water. It is when off
the Banks of Newfoundland that it first appears to break
up and form several main divisions : a northern branch
which runs towards Davis Strait, partly as an under-current ;
an eastern branch running towards the Azores and, spreading
out like a fan, merges finally into the Canary Stream and
the great whirlpool of the Sargasso Sea ; and a third or
North European branch which runs towards the British
Isles and is then continued up the Norwegian coast and also
into the North Sea.
Dr. Otto Petterssen, writing of its general influence, says
that this flow of warm surface water from tropical and sub-
tropical regions continues Hke a wave through the North
Atlantic Ocean, and is felt in the most distant parts of the
Atlantic -stream system — as a rise in ocean level, highest in
October to December and lowest in March, and a quickening
of the warm under-currents ; and these fluctuations of the
Guff Stream correspond with other phenomena, atmospheric,
planktonic and in the migration of fishes. It is estimated
that the Guff Stream in the Atlantic gives off enough heat
to warm the air aU over North Europe, and oceanographic
N
178 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
researches give hope that we may be able to predict winter
temperatures in advance from observations on the tempera-
tures of the sea. A fuller knowledge of the ocean currents
ought to enable us to predict not merely the weather in
general, but such details as the distribution of ice in the
North Atlantic and the prospects of sea-fisheries for perhaps
a year in advance.
The oceans of the globe perform a great equalizing function.
All the movements of the sea are ultimately due to solar
energy. The sea distributes the heat of the sun, conveying
about haK of that received in the tropics to higher latitudes,
and it also tempers tropical climates by means of cold
currents from the polar regions. By interchange of carbon
dioxide with the overlying air it helps to maintain a uniform
composition in the atmosphere, and by its slow changes of
temperature it to some extent regulates climates. It
supplies water -vapour to the atmosphere and rain for the
land. It receives and redistributes materials from the
land and maintains a huge population of organisms which
form an all-important part of the cycle of organic and
inorganic nature.
The Tile -Fish
A very striking case of the possible influence of the
occasional shifting of warm and cold currents upon the
population of a portion of the sea is seen in the discovery
and subsequent disappearance of the tile-fish in the North
American Gulf Stream area.
A new and valuable food-fish was found off the coast of
New England, between Cape Hatteras and Nantucket, in
1879, and was described under the name of *' Tile-fish '*
(Lopholatilus chamceleonticeps). (See Plate XVIII, Fig. 1.)
It is about the size of a cod, weighing up to about 60
lb., and occurred in great abundance at depths of from
50 to 100 fathoms, at 80 to 100 miles from the coast.
For a couple of years it was fished by the cod-fishery
OCEAN CURRENTS 179
schooners from Gloucester and other New England ports.
It belongs to a group of fishes that inhabit warmer seas,
and this tile-fish apparently frequents the western edge of
the Gulf Stream in moderately deep water at a temperature
of about 50° F. Specimens caught and examined were
found to be gorged with a large species of Amphipod
(Themisto hispinosus).
In the spring of 1882 incoming vessels reported that
tile-fish were seen in countless millions floating upon the
surface of the ocean, in a dead or dying condition, and
covering thousands of square miles. A full account of
the matter, as then known, was given in a report by Captain
J. W. CoUins, published by the United States Commission of
Fish and Fisheries for 1882.
The dead fish were found over an area measuring 170
miles in a north-easterly and south-westerly direction,
with an average width of at least 25 miles. Captain
Collins estimated the area occupied at from 5,000 to 7,000
square miles, and that the number of dead fish must have
exceeded a billion. The fishing schooner " Navarino," in
March, 1882, reported having sailed through the sea, thickly
scattered over with the dead fish as far as the eye could
reach, for two days and a night, for a distance of at least
150 miles. Thousands of the fish were seen close together
near to the vessel, and these were from 2 to 4 feet in
length. The general opinion among the fishermen and
others at the time seemed to be that the fish were killed
by some submarine volcanic eruption or other great con-
vulsion of nature. Captain Collins estimated from reports
of the various fishing boats that there must have been
about 256,000 dead fish in the square mile, and that at a
low estimate about a thousand milHon pounds weight of
edible fish were destroyed on that occasion.
The opinion is expressed in this official report that the
tile-fish encountered a layer of unusually cold water, which
paralysed and rendered them helpless to such an extent
180 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
that they floated to the surface dead or in a dying condition.
It is known that in that spring there were furious northerly
gales, and an unusual quantity of ice off the coast of New-
foundland, and the cold Arctic current flowing south-west
inside the GuK Stream is said to have been unusually strong.
Professor Verrill had made known, from his extensive
dredgings on the New England coast, that there is, on the
continental shelf south of Cape Cod, a broad belt (which he
called the Gulf Stream Slope) along the inner border of the
Gulf Stream at from about 65 to 150 fathoms, where the
temperature of the bottom water is decidedly higher than it is
either inside or farther out, and on this broad belt he had
found many animals which were only previously known from
the Gulf of Mexico or off the coast of Florida. There is, in fact,
a continuation upwards of the West Indian guLf-stream fauna,
and probably the tile-fish is a member of that community.
In a dredging expedition after the destruction of the
tile-fish Professor Verrill reported the scarcity or total
absence of many of these sub -tropical species which had
been taken in abundance in the two previous seasons at
the same localities and depths. He found that the inver-
tebrate bottom fauna of southern origin was practically
obliterated on his Gulf Stream Slope.
The Fish Commission also sent a fishing vessel to go over
the ground and fish systematically for the tile -fish in their
former haunts. That boat worked for three days at the
localities where they had been so abundant in the previous
two years, but did not catch a single tile-fish.
From all the evidence there seems to have been a whole-
sale destruction of life at the bottom on this Gulf Stream
Slope, caused by a lateral shifting of currents so as to bring
colder water into the area where the tile-fish and the other
sub -tropical animals had been formerly found in abundance.
It was estimated by the Fish Commission investigators
that the bottom of the ocean in this region must at
the time have been covered to the depth of about 6 feet
OCEAN CURRENTS 181
with the dead bodies of the tile-fish and other organisms.
The original presence and the subsequent destruction of
the tile-fish may alike have been due to changes in the
volume and consequent lateral shifting of the Gulf Stream
and the Labrador current. That there are seasonal and
other variations in the volume and temperature of the GuK
Stream waters in the North Atlantic was established and
discussed in some detail by H. N. Dickson in 1901.^
I am indebted to Dr. C. H. Townsend, Director of the
New York Aquarium, for some later information in regard
to the reappearance in quantity of this valuable fish upon
the old fishing-grounds off Nantucket and Long Island, at
about 100 miles from the coast to the east and south-east
of New York. It is believed that the tile-fish is now
abundant enough in these waters to maintain an important
fishery, which will add an excellent food-fish to the markets
of the United States. It is easily caught with lines at all
seasons of the year, and reaches a length of over 3 feet
and a weight of 40 to 50 lb. During July, 1916, the product
of the fishery was about two and a haK million pounds
weight, valued at $55,000, and in the first few months
of 1917 the catch was four and a half million pounds, for
which the fishermen received $247,000. Dr. Townsend,
writing in March, 1920, says : " Since then (1915) we have
had a regular fishery for tile-fish, the New York catch being
made on tile-fish grounds about 100 miles south-east of
New York. The Boston catch is taken a little farther to the
eastward. Tile-fish are to be found in the New York markets
plentifully enough in the summer, although fishing was
much interrupted during the war."
It is no smaU matter to have introduced a new and
important food-fish to the markets of the world, and the
U.S. Fisheries Biu-eau deserve great credit for their success
in investigating the fish, establishing the fishery and intro-
ducing this new food to the people.
1 Phil. Trans. Royal Soc, A., vol. 196, p. 61.
CHAPTER X
SUBMARINE DEPOSITS
The deposits which are forming on the floor of the ocean
are derived partly from the wearing down of the land and
partly from accumulations of the harder parts of the animals
and plants that live in the water. The material from the
land, forming " terrigenous " deposits, is partly carried to
the sea by rain and rivers, and partly washed or worn off
the coast by waves and currents. All such materials from
the land may be either carried off in suspension or dissolved
in the water. The greater part of this work which leads
to the formation of terrigenous deposits is performed by
rivers : they carry down thirty-three times as much sediment
as is worn off the coasts by wave action. These sediments
from the land are deposited in shallow water along the coasts
of the continents as gravels, sands and muds of various
grades and kinds, which farther from land become mixed
with the remains of organisms either living on the bottom
(" neritic ") or floating on the surface (" pelagic "). Some
continental shores have a much greater quantity of terri-
genous deposits than others, on account of the larger amount
of sediment brought to them by rain and rivers. For ex-
ample, about half of the world is drained into the Atlantic
Ocean, and most of this into the North Atlantic. More than
half the total rainfall is on the Atlantic drainage area ; and
in consequence, the deposits of the Atlantic are more terri-
genous than those of other oceans.
Marine plants and animals take up mineral substances
in solution from the sea and build up their shells, skeletons
182
SUBMARINE DEPOSITS 183
and other hard parts, and these after death add to the
deposits at the bottom. This takes place in shallow water
as well as in the open ocean, but where there is much sedi-
ment from the land these organic deposits may be swamped
and masked by the terrigenous gravels, sands and muds.
Chemical action may also take place in the sea-water,
and so produce changes in the deposits in some locahties
or under some conditions, giving rise, for example, to glau-
conite, phosphatic concretions and manganese nodules.
Finally, there are contributions to the deposits made by
submarine volcanic action, by the disintegration and
decomposition of floating pumice into clay, by volcanic
dust carried by the wind from the land, and by meteoric
particles falhng from space upon the oceans.
The leading authority on submarine deposits, and es-
pecially upon those of the deep sea, is the late Sir John
Murray, who commenced the detailed study of the subject
during the " Challenger " expedition, and continued it to
the end of his life. It is safe to say that he has examined,
classified and described more deep-sea deposits than any
other man. The most comprehensive and authoritative
work on the subject is the " Challenger " report by Murray
and Renard on the deep-sea deposits of the Expedition,
published in 1891.
Sir John Murray's primary classification of all deposits
is into (1) Terrigenous, the gravels, sands and muds derived
from adjacent land ; and (2) Pelagic, the deep-sea '' oozes "
far removed from land and largely made up of the cal-
careous and siliceous remains of organisms which once lived
in the surface waters of the open ocean, and after death
sank to the bottom. It is convenient, however, to recognize
and add a third category, which has been named Neritic,
for those deposits, mainly calcareous, which are found in
many shallow waters amongst terrigenous sands and muds,
but are not themselves terrigenous in origin, being formed
of the shells and other remains of Molluscs, Echinoderms,
184 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
Crustaceans, Polyzoa, Sponges, Tunicata, and other bottom-
living animals, and a few plants such as the calcareous
Nullipores. I shall, therefore, classify the submarine deposits
under these three primary divisions, which may be defined
as follows : —
Terrigenous (Murray's term restricted), where the deposit
is formed chiefly — say at least two-thirds, 66 per cent. — of
mineral particles, characteristically quartz, derived from
the waste of the land.
Neritic (Herdman, 1895), where the deposit is largely of
organic origin, its calcareous matter being derived from the
shells and other hard parts of the animals and plants living
on the bottom (benthonic organisms).
Pelagic (Murray's term unaltered) — or better, planktonic
— where the greater part of the deposit (except in the case
of " Red Clay ") is formed of the remains of free-floating
animals and plants which lived in the sea over the deposit.
These pelagic deposits are produced by planktonic organ-
isms, and are characteristic of the deep sea, where terri-
genous materials do not penetrate, and where benthonic
organisms are not present in sufficient quantity to cause
neritic deposits.
The statement in brief form is : —
Terrigenous, derived from the land ;
Neritic, derived from benthonic organisms ;
Pelagic, derived from planktonic organisms.
There are, however, transitional forms of deposit from the
one group to another.
I. Terrigenous. Deposits of varied mineral materials
and many textures, but all derived from the waste of the
land, and containing on the average about 68 per cent, of
silica. The nature of the deposit depends chiefly upon the
geological structure of the adjacent land and the agents
of denudation and disintegration. There may be large
boulders strewn upon the beach or in shallow water de-
tached from a cliff or washed out of the Boulder Clay.
SUBMARINE DEPOSITS 185
There may be aU sizes of smaller stones forming various
kinds and sizes of gravel, and grading down to coarse sand
and then to fine sand, and finally mud. The nature of
the sand and mud will depend upon the kind of rocks from
which it is derived or the sediments brought down by the
rivers ; and as a rule in most places the terrigenous deposits
become finer and finer the farther they are from the coast,
until the mud-line is reached, where the finest particles
suspended in the water are deposited. This is usually at
a depth of about 100 fathoms on continental shores facing
the open ocean.
In addition to these shallow-water sands and muds,
obviously derived from the adjacent land, and usually
characterized by quartz grains, Murray classifies under
terrigenous certain deeper muds coloiu'ed blue or red by
hydrated oxides of iron, or green by glauconite, and found
around continental lands, farther out and deeper than the
mud-line.
There are also volcanic muds round oceanic islands of
volcanic origin and formed from the particles of volcanic
rocks.
Around coral reefs and islands there may be coral-sands
and coral-muds, calcareous deposits formed of the frag-
ments of coral broken up and sometimes ground down to a
very fine powder. It is possible that some of these coral
muds are formed not mechanically but by bacterial action.
The late G. Harold Drew, working at Tortugas, Florida,
on the effect of Bacillus calcis in shallow tropical seas, found
that this organism caused the precipitation of soluble
calcium salts in the form of calcium carbonate (" drewite ")
on a large scale. He believed that his observations showed
that the great calcareous deposits of Florida and the
Bahamas, previously known as coral muds, are not, as was
supposed by Murray and others, derived from broken-up
corals, shells, nuUipores, etc., but are minute particles of
carbonate of lime which have been precipitated by the
186 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
action of these bacteria. More recently, however, C. B.
Lipman has repeated the observations both at Samoa and
at Tortugas, and finds that Drew was mistaken in supposing
that this precipitation was wholly due to the action of the
organism (now known as Pseudomonas calcis). Further
investigations on this matter are still (1923) in progress ;
but I have mentioned it as an example of the complications
that may be present in the actions and interactions, mechan-
ical, chemical and organic, in connection with such an
apparently simple process as the grinding of coral fragments
into coral mud. The bearing of these observations upon
the formation of oolitic limestones and fine-grained un-
fossiliferous limestones must be of peculiar interest to
geologists, and forms a notable instance of the annectent
character of oceanography, bringing the metaboHsm of
living organisms in the modern sea into relation with
mesozoic and even palaeozoic rocks.
The seaward limit of the terrigenous deposits is on the
average about 200 miles from land, and these deposits cover
in aU about one-fifth of the area of the ocean.
II. Neritic. — Amongst the shallow-water deposits there
are some which are by no means " terrigenous," as they are
not formed of particles derived from the land, but are
constituted either wholly or in large part of the hard parts
of the bottom (" benthonic ") animals and plants living on
the spot or close to. The shells of Molluscs, the exo-
skeletons of Crustaceans, the tubes of some worms, the spines
and plates of Echinoderms, the spicules of sponges, Alcyon-
arians and Tunicates, and also some calcareous algae, such
as corallines and nullipores, form such neritic deposits of
organic origin, but not pelagic Hke the deep-sea oozes.
These neritic deposits are very largely calcareous (up to
80 per cent, of carbonate of lime), and would form a highly
fossiliferous limestone if consolidated.
In some places near land, at depths of 10 to 20
fathoms, the bottom may be covered with growing
PLATE XI.
Fig. 1. — Plant Neritic deposit from the Irish Sea, composed of the NulHpore
Lithothamnion polymorphum ; natural size.
[Photographs by A. Fleming.
Fig. 2. — Animal Neritic deposit from the Irish Sea, composed of remains of
Molluscs, Echinoderms, Polyzoa, etc. ; natural size.
SUBMARINE DEPOSITS 187
lumps and broken fragments, and water-worn particles
of the branched nullipore Lithoihamnion polymorphum
(Plate XI, Fig. 1) ; in others there may be deposits
almost wholly composed of the dead and broken shells
of lameUibranchiate mollusca, such as mussels, cockles,
and their aUies ; and on a bank off the south end of the
Isle of Man, at a depth of 20 fathoms, there is a white shell-
sand (Plate XI, Fig. 2) composed of broken fragments of the
mollusca Pec^en, Anomia, Pectunculus, Mactray Venus, Mytilus,
Cyprcea, Buccinum, Emarginula, Purpura, and Trochus, of
various calcareous Polyzoa, such as Cellaria fistulosa,
Cellepora pumicosa, and many Lepralids, of plates of
Balanus and tubes of Serpula, and of plates and spines of
several Echinoderms. Such a neritic deposit as this would
form a rock almost wholly made up of fossils, and might be
compared with some Tertiary deposits, such as the Coralline
and Red Crag formations of Suffolk. In one of the neritic
deposits south of the Isle of Man, close on sixty species of
Polyzoa were recorded from one haul of the dredge.^
Although the neritic deposits are chiefly found on the
continental shelf near land, they may also occur in shallow
water on a submarine bank in the open ocean, surrounded
by deep waters with their characteristic pelagic oozes. It
may be argued that coral sands and muds are also neritic
deposits, as they are formed of the remains of the hard
parts of shallow- water organisms more or less in situ. But
if the coral reef (which may be a large, inhabited island)
be regarded as land, then the deposit derived from it may
be called " terrigenous." As Murray has pointed out, hard-
and-fast lines cannot always be drawn between some of the
categories of deposits ; they merge one into another by
insensible gradations, as is only to be expected when we
consider their mode of occurrence and origin.
III. Pelagic (or Planktonic). — With the exception of the
1 See Herdman and Dawson, Fishes and Fisheries of the Irish
Sea. London, G. Philip & Son, 1902.
188 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
Red Clay, all these deep-sea oozes are formed mainly of the
remains of planktonic animals (such as Foraminifera and
Radiolaria) and plants (such as Diatoms and Coccolitho-
phorida) which lived in the surface waters over the deposit.
The following five distinct kinds of deposit were made known
by Murray from the " Challenger " results : Pteropod ooze,
Globigerina ooze, Red Clay, Radiolarian ooze, and Diatom
ooze, and although typical representatives of each have
very distinctive characters and locaUties, they may graduate
one into another on their borders. Just as shallow-water
coastal terrigenous deposits of gravel and sand may pass
into neritic calcareous accumulations of shells or nuUipores,
so in deeper water in oceanic areas neritic assemblages of
bottom organisms may be gradually replaced by the remains
of pelagic molluscs to form a Pteropod ooze, and that in
turn at a greater depth of, say, 1,000 fathoms by the dis-
appearance of the delicate Pteropod shells becomes a
Globigerina ooze, which at depths over 2,500 fathoms is
gradually replaced by Red Clay, and that finally in certain
abyssal areas acquires the characters of Radiolarian ooze.
The following short descriptions, summarized in the main
from Murray's various writings on the subject, hold good,
in general for these oceanic deposits, but do not indicate
hard-and-fast boundaries : —
1. Pteropod Ooze. — A calcareous deposit occupying only
about haK a million of square miles and confined to the
tropics, generally on submarine ridges, at depths of less
than 1,000 fathoms. Its basis is a Globigerina ooze largely
mixed with and masked by the large delicate shells of the
pelagic mollusca, the Pteropods, and, to a less extent, Hetero-
pods. As these thin Pteropod shells expose a large surface
to the water as they sink through it, they become dissolved
before reaching the bottom at greater depths. The rapidity
of solution of the Pteropod shells is probably aided also
by the carbonate of lime being in the form of aragonite,
while the Globigerina shells are calcite. In the " Challenger "
PLATE XII,
Fig. 1. — Globigerina ooze, from the floor of the Atlantic. X 25.
Fig. 2. — Section of consoHdated Globigerina ooze from N. Atlantic,
1,675 fathoms. X 25.
[Photo-micrographs by E. Neaverson.
SUBMARINE DEPOSITS 189
section through the Atlantic from Tristan d'Acunha to
Ascension Island, wherever the depth is less than 1,000
fathoms Pteropod ooze is found capping the elevations,
while the depressions between are occupied by Globigerina
ooze. It occurs in similar manner on several isolated spots
in the Pacific and Indian Oceans.
2. Globigerina Ooze, — A calcareous deposit covering nearly
50 millions of square miles on the floor of the ocean in deep
water, but not in the greatest depths. It is not found in
cold seas, but elsewhere is widely distributed in depths of
1,000 to about 2,500 fathoms, and is especially character-
istic of the North Atlantic, where it occupies 9 million square
miles, nearly 40 per cent, of the area. It was first made
known from the soundings of cable -laying steamers in the
North Atlantic, described by Ehrenberg and Bailey (1853),
and later by Wallich, Wyville Thomson, Carpenter, and
others ; and is carried far north into the Norwegian Sea
by the effect of the Gulf Stream on the surface organisms. It
is also found in the Indian Ocean, the South Pacific, and
the Southern Ocean, but is almost absent from the North
Pacific.
This deposit is formed mainly of the shells of Foraminifera
which live in the surface waters, and of these the most
abundant and characteristic is G^Zo6?^en7io^ hulloides (Fig. 10),
although other allied species and genera are also commonly
present, along with the calcareous Coccoliths and Rhabdoliths
derived from minute surface algae. Many other organisms
are represented, but the relatively large and strong Globi-
gerina shells mask the others and appropriately give their
name to the deposit (see Plate XII, Fig. 1). Some idea of
the kind of rock that might be formed from Globigerina ooze
may be obtained by consolidating and sectioning a sample
of the deposit (see Plate XII, Fig. 2).
The proportion of lime varies in samples of Globigerina
ooze at different depths, from 30 to 90 per cent., the average
being about 65. The deposit is in its most characteristic
190
FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
condition at depths of 1,200 to 2,200 fathoms. At lesser
depths it may graduate into Pteropod ooze or coral deposits,
and at greater depths it gradually loses the calcareous shells
and passes into Red Clay at about 2,500 to 3,000 fathoms.
During the " Challenger " expedition, Murray calculated,
Fig. 10. — Sketch of living Globigerina from the surface of the Atlantic
as seen under the microscope in plankton fresh from the tow-net. The
opaque protoplasm inside the shell is of a brick-red colour. The wisps of
spines are not seen on the shells in the ooze.
from his tow-net observations, that one square mile of
tropical water 100 fathoms deep contained about 16 tons
of carbonate of lime in the shells of Globigerina and allied
organisms. These reach the bottom in a more or less perfect
condition, according to the depth of water through which
they have to fall. Once on the bottom and covered by
others, they are safe from further solution, and typical
Globigerina ooze is supposed (from the observations obtained
SUBMARINE DEPOSITS 191
by cable-laying ships in the North Atlantic) to accumulate
at the rate of about one inch in ten years.
3. Red Clay. — This deposit is characteristic of the abysses,
the deeper parts of the floor of the ocean, and covers at
least 60 millions of square miles at depths of 2,500 to over 5,000
fathoms. It forms the floor of more than half the Pacific.
It is a clayey deposit composed mainly of hydrated sili-
cate of alumina and iron, derived from the decomposition
of pumice and other volcanic particles and interstellar dust
along with the residue of the dissolved Globigerina shells
and other organisms. Quartz particles are rare or absent ;
but there are in places, especially in the Pacific, many
manganese nodules of all sizes and layers of manganese on
pumice, sharks' teeth, whales' ear-bones, etc. The red
colour of the clay is due to ferric oxide and peroxide of
manganese, derived from the decomposition of volcanic
rocks. Typical Red Clay is, then, a non-calcareous deposit,
although it passes gradually into the calcareous Globigerina
ooze of less deep water. It also passes insensibly into
Radiolarian ooze in some localities where these siHceous
organisms are present in quantity on the surface of the
sea. It is the most widely distributed of aU the pelagic
deposits, and the floor in the deepest parts of every ocean,
beyond the range of Globigerina ooze, is covered by this
stifiE reddish-brown clay. It is as characteristic of the
deeper Pacific as Globigerina ooze is of the rather shallower
Atlantic. The Red Clay of deep water in the South Pacific
is probably accumulating at a very slow rate. According
to Murray, at " possibly not more than a foot since Tertiary
times."
It is usually considered that there is no rock in the geo-
logical series which would correspond to consoHdated Red
Clay, and this is one of the arguments that has been used
in support of the view that at least the deeper parts of the
great ocean basins have been permanent for long periods
of time.
192 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
4. Radiolarian Ooze, — This deposit covers about two
millions of square miles at the greatest depths in a few
isolated areas in the tropical Pacific and Indian Ocean.
It does not occur in the Atlantic, nor in the great Southern
Ocean. Its range is from about 2,500 to 5,000 fathoms,
but is determined apparently not so much by the depth
as by the presence of enormous quantities of Radiolaria
(with siliceous shells) in the surface waters of these localities.
The foundation of the deposit is Red Clay, of which it
may be considered to be a variety in which the siUceous
shells of Radiolaria are so abundant as to give a character-
istic appearance under the microscope, and on analysis.
The other mineral constituents, apart from the silica, which
forms about 25 per cent, of the ooze, are those found in
Red Clay. Radiolaria shells are found in smaller quantities
in Globigerina ooze and in Red Clay and other deposits, in
fact, wherever there are Radiolaria living in the surface
waters above, but in these cases the minute and delicate
siliceous shells are masked by the greater quantity and
larger size and opacity of the Foraminifera and other
organisms. It is only when, at depths over 2,500 fathoms,
the calcareous shells have been dissolved away by the car-
bonic acid in the sea-water that the delicate Radiolaria
shells, and some Diatom frustules, become conspicuous.
Even siliceous shells, however, have been shown by Murray
and Irvine to be dissolved to some extent in sea-water, and
therefore it is only when the Radiolaria are present in great
abundance on the surface, as in the tropical Pacific and
Indian Oceans, that what is left of their remains are sufiicient
to form a Radiolarian ooze at the bottom.
5. Diatom Ooze. — This is also, like Radiolarian ooze, a
siliceous deposit, and is formed of the frustules or valves
of Diatoms where these microscopic plants are present in
enormous abundance in cold surface circumpolar waters.
It occupies about 10 millions of square miles at depths of
600 to 2,000 fathoms, and is characteristic of the Antarctic
SUBMARINE DEPOSITS 193
seas and the great Southern Ocean, where it forms a belt
round the globe extending, on the average, from about
60° to 65° S. latitude. There is also a broad belt extending
across the North Pacific from the north of Japan to the
terrigenous deposits of North America south of Alaska and
the Aleutian Isles. At its edges in both north and south
circumpolar areas it becomes mixed with and passes into
terrigenous deposits, and is really present irrespective of
depths being dependent more upon the absence of other
deposits and the presence of enormous quantities of Diatoms
in the water above, the frustules of which make up from
50 to^80 per cent, of the material. This is the only pelagic
deposit which is formed of the remains of plants (with the
exception of the minute CoccoHths in Globigerina ooze),
and many of the animals in Antarctic seas are found to
have their stomachs filled with it. But all submarine
deposits contain organic matter, and many of the deep-
sea animals graze upon the bottom and nourish themselves
by passing the ooze through their alimentary canal.
Looking at the submarine deposits as a whole, the terri-
genous form a broad belt along the shores of continental
land and around islands, Red Clay occupies the greater
part of the deep Pacific and lesser areas in the Atlantic
and Indian Ocean, Globigerina ooze is characteristic of the
Atlantic and parts of the Indian Ocean and South Pacific,
the deep-water siliceous Radiolarian ooze and the shallow-
water calcareous Pteropod ooze occupy restricted areas in
tropical waters, and the siHceous Diatom ooze forms circum-
polar belts in the cold waters of the Southern Ocean and the
North Pacific.
I may conclude this subject with the following summary,
adapted from the writings of Sir John Murray, on the distri-
bution of carbonate of Hme over the floor of the ocean : —
By far the larger part of the carbonate of lime which
is found in the marine deposits now covering the floor of
the ocean has been derived from sea-water by the action
o
194 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
of living organisms. It is made up of fragments of fish-
bones, mollusc sheUs, corals, spicules of sponges, alcyonaria
and tunicates, shells of foraminifera, remains of calcareous
algse, and indeed of all the calcareous structures secreted
by marine organisms.
These calcareous remains may be divided into two
classes, viz., (1) Those that have been secreted by organisms
which live habitually in the surface waters of the ocean,
such as Pteropods and Heteropods, pelagic Foraminifera,
such as Glohigerina, Pulvinulina, Orhulina, and other alUed
genera, and calcareous algae, such as the Coccospheres and
Rhabdospheres. The remains of all these pelagic (plank-
tonic) organisms are especially abundant in the deposits
far from land. Near the land their presence is masked
by terrigenous detrital matters. In great depths they
disappear, being dissolved by the action of sea-water either
while faUing through it or soon after they reach the bottom.
In depths of 1,000 fathoms, far from land, they may make
up fully 95 per cent, of the deposit. (2) Those organisms
(the Benthos) that live on the bottom of the ocean, viz.,
corals, moUuscs, Foraminifera (very different species from
those of pelagic habit) and calcareous algse, are poorly repre-
sented in the great depths, but in shallow water their
remains may make up nearly the whole of the deposits
(Neritic) now in process of formation. This is especially
the case around coral islands.
It is well known that carbonate of Hme is very sparingly
secreted in the cold water either of the polar regions or of
the deep sea, while it is very abundantly secreted in warm
seas where there is a nearly uniform temperature throughout
the year. In warmer water the lime is, in some cases,
secreted in the form of aragonite (though calcite is also
present), while in the colder water it appears more frequently
in the form of calcite. In this connection it may be pointed
out that in the deposits now forming on the floor of the
ocean, the remains of organisms may be found which during
SUBMARINE DEPOSITS 195
their lives were always in a temperature of 35° F., mixed
up with the remains of organisms which always Hved in a
temperature of about 80° F. This shows how difficult it
may be to unravel the geological records of the past, for
the remains of organisms which lived under wholly different
conditions may be mixed together as fossils in the same
geological stratum.
If we attempt to compare the submarine deposits forming
at the present time with those of past ages, now represented
by the sedimentary rocks of the geological series, it wiU be
found that while some show a close correspondence, others
— the deep-sea oozes — are not so obviously related to any
known rocks of the visible crust of the earth.
The terrigenous deposits formed in shallow water round
continents and containing mineral particles such as quartz
grains derived from the adjacent land correspond with
familiar sedimentary rocks of various geological horizons.
Sandstone is consolidated sand; gravel of various kinds
may be cemented together to form conglomerates and
pebble-beds ; deposits of mud may be compressed into shales
and impure Hmestones.
Similarly, the neritic deposits can be correlated with
various highly fossiliferous limestones, chalks and related
rocks in many parts of the geological series.
The question then naturally arises — do the deep-sea
deposits, formed from the remains of pelagic organisms,
likewise become converted into any known rocks ? There
is no doubt that they might do so. The " Challenger "
dredged fragments of rock from the deep sea which were
found, on examination with the microscope, to be composed
of hardened and consolidated pelagic deposits ; and it is
possible to convert Globigerina ooze, or any other pelagic
deposit, in the laboratory into a lump of stone which can be
sHced like any other rock and examined in thin sections under
the microscope (see Plate XII, Fig. 2) . But there is no reason
to beheve that any rocks formed by the consolidation
196 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
of deep-sea deposits are present in that part of the crust
of the earth which we can examine — with the possible
exception of the Polycystina earth of Miocene age at
Barbados, which may be a fossil Radiolarian ooze.
Analogues of terrigenous deposits are to be found in
all geological ages, and many calcareous rocks are formed
of neritic shallow-water deposits, but we know of no un-
doubted analogue of the true deep-water pelagic deposits.
Various rocks have from time to time been supposed to
correspond to the oozes of the deep sea, since Huxley,
in 1858, claimed Globigerina ooze as a modern chalk, but
further investigation and consideration of the case has
always led to the conclusion that such claims must be
rejected as very doubtful. It must not be supposed,
because Radiolarian ooze is an abyssal deposit, that
ancient highly siliceous sandstones and cherts or shales
containing fossil Radiolaria were necessarily formed as
deep-sea deposits. Radiolaria can live in comparatively
shallow water, or their dead shells may be carried by currents
into shallower water, and some of the sandstones and shales
in question show evidence (such as contained plant remains)
of having been formed as shallow-water deposits near land.
It was generally held at the time of the " Challenger "
expedition, and even by some geologists since, that the
Cretaceous formation, or at any rate the Upper Chalk,
was formed as a deep-sea deposit, and that, to put it another
way, the chalk formation is still being deposited at the bottom
of the Atlantic. Hence arose the doctrine of what was
called " the continuity of the chalk." But the view is
now generally held that in upper Cretaceous times the chalk
of England was deposited in warm shallow water containing
very little terrigenous material ; and that therefore the
Globigerina ooze of the abyssal Atlantic cannot be regarded
as its lineal descendant. It may be regarded as established
that at any rate the great mass of the stratified rocks which
compose the continents as we see them must have been
SUBMARINE DEPOSITS 197
formed of such terrigenous and neritic deposits as are now
being laid down within 200 or 300 miles of land, on the
continental shelf and the upper part of the continental slope,
and do not include to any marked extent deposits which
closely resemble those now accumulating in the abysses of
the Atlantic and the Pacific oceans.
This conclusion has an important bearing on the contro-
versial subject known as the permanence of the continental
ridges and the ocean basins. As most of the sedimentary
rocks of past geological times were of marine origin, there
is no doubt that the greater part of the continental land
of the globe has been at one time or other, or even at various
times, at the bottom of the sea, and no doubt considerable
areas that were once land are now submerged. Land and
sea have been occasionally changing places throughout the
ages. But that fact does not necessarily imply that contin-
ental land ever occupied the great ocean basins, or that
deep-seas once rolled over what are now continents. The
study of the ocean depths and of the deposits from abyssal
regions does not (in Sir John Murray's opinion, with which
most oceanographers would agree) give any support to the
view that vast continents have disappeared in what are now
oceanic areas.
The contrary view — that continents and ocean basins
have changed places in the past, and have even followed one
another like successive waves round the globe — has been held
from time to time. The myth of a " lost Atlantis " dates
back at least to the time of Plato, and has been revived
many times since ; while a sunken continent, " Gondwana-
land," has been supposed to occupy the Indian and Southern
oceans in order to account for the distribution of geological
formations and living organisms.
The stories of sunken lands and the legends of spectral
or floating islands in the west are probably based partly
on the evidence of submergence seen on the western coasts
of Europe. The old river-beds of the Shannon and other
198 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
streams can be traced far out to sea ; the Porcupine Bank
and the Rockall Bank are parts of the continent of Europe
which have sunk, there are submerged forests with peat
and tree trunks and remains of land animals in many places,
and on the west coast of Africa the bed of the Congo has
been traced as a submarine canon as far out to sea as the
1,000-fathom line. But these are only local oscillations of
the continental margins. In addition, lost continents have
been supposed to exist in mid-Atlantic and the Indian Ocean,
and if every atoll indicates the position of a sunken peak, a
vast area of the Pacific must, according to some views, have
been occupied by mountain ranges.
It is not only geologists and oceanographers who have
imagined the existence of former continents where we now
have deep sea, but zoologists and botanists also have postu-
lated extensive former land connections in order to account
for the present distribution of land animals and plants — and
some of these connections did undoubtedly exist, while
others are still matters of controversy. Britain was certainly
connected with the continent of Europe both to the south
and the north in Tertiary times, and Europe was once
connected with North America by way of Iceland and
Greenland. The Antarctic continent was probably much
larger in former times, and may possibly have joined New
Zealand and Australia and connected the southern extremi-
ties of America and even Africa. The ancient granitoid rocks
of the Seychelles probably indicate a former land connection
(part of " Gondwanaland ") from South Africa through
Madagascar to Ceylon and India, dividing the Indian Ocean
into two seas ; and the present floor of the Indian Ocean is
supposed to have been formed by sinking in upper Cretaceous
times. There may also have been a land extension in
Cretaceous times between Brazil and the west coast of Africa.
But there was probably always an open Pacific Ocean and
some kind of a North Atlantic, although the eminent
Austrian geologist Suess supposed that the North Atlantic
SUBMARINE DEPOSITS 199
Ocean was formed during Tertiary times by successive
sinkings of large areas of a pre-existing land surface. The
present isthmus of Panama was formerly a waterway
between the Atlantic and the Pacific, and a great sea once
extended through an enlarged Mediterranean across what is
now the south of Asia and northwards along the line of the
Caspian Sea through Russia to join the Arctic Ocean. The
mountains of Tjrrol, now 10,000 feet above the sea, once lay
submerged beneath it bearing coral reefs and shallow lagoons ;
and many other extensions of the sea into what are now
continental areas have come and gone.
Restorations of the distribution of land and sea, more
or less well established, have been made by geologists for
each great geological period, and they show that portions of
the continents have one after another sunk beneath the waves
and then reappeared as dry land. This has happened time
after time, and so although sizes and shapes and land
connections have varied through the ages, the main contin-
ental masses have persisted in parts and in some form.
Similarly, notwithstanding repeated oscillations, extensions
and restrictions, some parts of the great ocean basins
have probably remained as permanent depressions on the
earth's surface since very early times, and may possibly be
relics of the original wrinkles on the cooling and contracting
skin of the molten globe.
The most recent speculation bearing on the possible past
history of the oceans is Wegener's hypothesis of the wander-
ing or drifting apart of the present continents from an
original continuous land mass which covered about half the
globe in Carboniferous times. Suess had previously shown
that there was reason to believe that the crust of the earth
may be divided into a more superficial and lighter but more
rigid layer (the "Sal"), which forms the continental areas,
and a deeper and denser but more plastic mass (the " Sima ")
which underlies the continents and comes close to the surface
on the fioors of the oceans. Wegener supposes the present
200 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
continents, after separation from one another, to be floating
as lighter but more rigid bodies on the surface of the plastic
but heavier material which forms the bed of the oceans,
and to have slowly drifted apart into their present positions.
He points out the similarity in shape between the east coast
of North and South America and the western coasts of
Europe and Africa ; and, in short, appeals to many similar-
ities in shape, geological structure and other particulars
which enable him to fit the various land masses of the
globe together like the pieces of a dissected map or a puzzle
picture so as to make a coherent whole with geological
features, glaciation and distribution of organisms seen as
a continuous pattern, whereas they are now widely separated
on different continents.
According to this view the Atlantic Ocean has been formed
gradually by America becoming detached from the common
land mass and drifting slowly to the west, leaving Europe
and Africa behind. There are many objections and diffi-
culties in detail which have been urged against this most
revolutionary theory, and the whole matter is at present a
subject of acute controversy.
CHAPTER XI
CORAL REEFS AND ISLANDS
Islands may be divided into continental and oceanic, and
oceanic into volcanic and coral islands. When we think
of the innumerable coral islands and reefs of tropical seas,
and especially of the Pacific, and when we remember that the
Great Barrier Reef runs along the north-east coast of
AustraUa for over a thousand miles, we must reaUze that
these coral formations are amongst the greatest of oceano-
graphical phenomena. It is not surprising that such
extensive coral structures have excited the wonder and
curiosity of voyagers, naturaHsts and poets, and that many
fanciful speculations and scientific theories have been
evolved to account for the observed facts of distribution
and structure.
From the earliest times navigators have noticed and
named three types of coral reefs : —
The Fringing Reef, which grows along the coasts of
continents or islands, keeping close to the shore and
leaving no wide or open lagoon between the reef
and the land.
The Barrier Beefy also related to the land but at a greater
distance, so as to leave an open navigable channel.
The Atoll, a more or less circular ring of coral, having no
visible relation to any land and enclosing more or
less completely a lagoon, which may be of large extent
and of any depth up to about 50 fathoms, usually
much shallower.
Islands are merely the more elevated parts of reefs which
201
202 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
form dry land and may be habitable. The majority of
coral islands are on atolls.
Before passing to the theories which have been put
forward to account for these forms of coral structures, let
us consider what the reefs are made of. They are wholly
produced by living organisms, animals and plants, and
especially by the coral animals or polypes.
Huge coral structures of carbonate of lime are built up
by innumerable minute polypes, each of which is like a
small sea-anemone, and has a mouth surrounded by tentacles.
There are some solitary corals, formed of single polypes,
comparable with sea-anemones which have deposited lime
skeletons in and around their bodies ; but the majority of
corals are colonies formed of an immense number of polypes
produced by continuous budding.
There are certain deep-sea corals which do not form reefs,
but may be of importance in helping to build up platforms
upon which reefs can grow.
The true reef-forming corals live only in shallow water,
as a rule not deeper than 30 fathoms, and in water which
is never colder than about 68° F. They are, therefore,
tropical animals, limited by the isotherms of 68° North and
South of the Equator, a zone lying for the most part between
30° N. latitude and 30° S. latitude.
It must not be supposed, however, that coral reefs are
wholly, or even chiefly, formed of coral skeletons produced
by coral polypes. There are in addition many other cal-
careous organisms present, including Foraminifera, Molluscs,
Polyzoa, and even NuUipores and other calcareous sea-weeds
(such as Halimeda), and in some cases these form the greater
part of the reef.
Once the facts of distribution are ascertained, there is
no mystery in regard to the formation of the fringing reef.
It merely grows and spreads under suitable conditions
wherever it can in shallow water. It hugs the coast-Hne
because the living organisms which are forming it cannot
CORAL REEFS AND ISLANDS 203
extend either upwards on to the shore or downwards into
deeper and colder water, and so it ends by encircling the
land.
The theories we have to consider, then, are to account
for the formation of barrier reefs and atolls, and, omitting
purely fanciful speculations, the first and most celebrated
is that of Charles Darwin (1842), who based his view of the
matter upon two facts, one physical and the other physi-
ological. The physical fact is that many parts of the land
are not stationary, but are undergoing slow movements of
elevation or subsidence ; and the physiological is that
the coral polypes can only live in shallow water of a certain
temperature. Darwin's theory is, in effect, that if a
fringing reef (Fig. 11, F.) has become established round
the shore of an island that is slowly subsiding, then as the
land sinks the coral animals will build the reef upwards,
so as to keep near the surface within the zone of shallow
warm water, and so in course of time, because of the
natural slope of the land and the more or less vertical
upgrowth of the coral, the reef will become separated from
the shore by a wide and moderately deep lagoon, and the
fringing reef will have become converted into a barrier reef
(B). Let these processes continue and eventually the
original island will be completely submerged, and an atoll
or ring of coral (A) will surround the lagoon which now
occupies the position of the sunken land. According to
this view, the three forms of reef are merely stages in one
process of growth, which begins as a fringing reef and ends as
an atoll (Fig. 11, Darwin).
The simplicity and the comprehensive nature of this
theory proved very fascinating, and led to its wide accept-
ance by biologists and geologists alike. It was adopted in
every textbook of physical geography, and the existence
of an atoll came to be usually stated as one of the proofs
of subsidence. The American geologist, J. D. Dana, from
independent observations made during Wilkes's expedition,
204
FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
corroborated Darwin's views — which are now frequently
referred to as the Darwin-Dana theory.
In course of time, however, other observers pointed
out that atolls were sometimes found on areas that had
obviously undergone elevation, and that old-established
fringing reefs, indicating stationary conditions, might be
found along with barrier reefs or atolls, which were supposed
to indicate subsidence. Thus Semper's observations in the
Pelew Islands showed the co-existence of atolls and other
types of reef in the same archipelago, and Agassiz and
several other more recent investigators threw grave doubt
upon the validity of Darwin's theory to explain the structure
and distribution of the reefs they had observed. Thus the
Lagoon
Lagoon
(Darwin) (Murray)
Fig. 1 1. — Theories of the Formation of Coral Atolls.
matter became controversial — but no adequate rival theory
was put forward until Murray's views, based on the " Chal-
lenger " observations, appeared in 1880.
A strong point in favour of Darwin's theory was that it
had got over the difficulty of suppl3dng an enormous number
of suitable platforms in shallow water scattered over vast
areas of the deep sea. By slow subsidence of a tropical
continent or archipelago every peak and every island in
succession would naturally come within the range of reef-
building corals, and so form a suitable platform for what
would eventually become an atoll. Granted the assumption
of innumerable peaks and islands sinking slowly in an
oceanic area suited to the Ufe of the coral polypes, then
the result will follow in accordance with Darwin's theory ;
CORAL REEFS AND ISLANDS 205
but it is a very large assumption, for which there is little
or no justification.
The Darwin-Dana hypothesis implies that a vast belt
of land in equatorial regions has been sinking down to the
extent of thousands of feet during more than a million
of years. If this has really taken place, it is one of the
greatest phenomena in the earth's history.
Such was the position of affairs when the " Challenger "
sailed on her memorable exploring expedition, during which
the investigation of depths and bottom deposits over the
floor of the ocean enabled John Murray to construct his
theory of coral growth and atoll formation, which is perhaps
the best known after that of Darwin. Murray showed that
abundant platforms could be provided by the building up
of submarine volcanic elevations and banks by means of
calcareous deposits formed from the shells and other hard
parts of animals living on the bottom, and also of pelagic
organisms in the water above, such as form Globigerina ooze
and Pteropod ooze. He showed how the various agencies
at work all tend to wear down or to level up all elevations
rising from the floor of the ocean to about the lower limit
of wave-action, which is the correct depth at which to form
a suitable platform for reef -building corals to grow upon.
The coral colonies established on such a platform will then
naturally grow towards the surface and from the surface
outwards in all directions to form a small tableland or
plantation of coral. In such a plantation the conditions
of life will be more favourable round the edges, where the
breaking water brings abundant microscopic food and
oxygen, than in the centre where the water is more or less
stagnant and used-up. This leads to more active growth
on the periphery, and to starvation, death, and decay in the
centre, and thus a cup -shaped hollow is formed — a small
atoll (Fig. 11, Murray).
This structure, once attained, remains and increases.
The outer rim of a coral reef is always the most actively
206 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
growing part; the lagoon, according to Murray, is being
worn away or dissolved, and so the small atoll increases in
size, growing outwards like a *' fairy ring " on grass, and
supported upon a growing " talus " of its own broken frag-
ments (Fig. 11). On the same principle a fringing reef might
grow outwards to form in time a barrier reef on a stationary
or even a slowly rising area.
The strong points of Murray's theory are (1) that it does
not require any great assumption, such as the subsidence of
a vast area of land in tropical seas ; and (2) that it depends
upon observed facts and known processes in the life and
growth of the coral animals.
This theory was favourably received by many biologists,
especially by those who had themselves explored coral reefs.
Several more recent investigators, however, differ from
Murray's view that a lagoon may be formed or deepened by
solution of the dead coral, and regard the lagoon as an area
of deposition or sedimentation rather than of solution.
An interesting corroboration of Murray's views was
furnished a few years later by Dr. H. B. Guppy, who found
in the Solomon Islands upraised coral reefs formed of a
relatively thin layer of coral upon limestones which were
evidently consolidated Pteropod and Globigerina ooze, and
the consolidated ooze was deposited upon a core of volcanic
rock, the whole structure being a remarkable verification
of what Murray had supposed would be the case.
These two theories, Darwin's and Murray's, with various
modifications introduced by other investigators, such as
Wharton, A. Agassiz, Stanley Gardiner, Davis, and others,
now held the field, and opinion was very equally divided
as to which was the more correct interpretation. Darwin
himseK had long ago expressed the hope that someone would
some day make a boring through a Pacific atoll in order to
determine what its base was formed of, and whether, as he
supposed, coral which was living in situ went continuously
down to depths where no reef-building coral could live.
CORAL REEFS AND ISLANDS 207
When we want a thing of that kind done for the benefit
of science in this country, we generally go to the British
Association and ask that a research committee be appointed
for the purpose, and that was done over thirty years ago,
at the meeting of the British Association at Cardiff in 1891.
A typical atoll, thought to be of irreproachable character,
called Funafuti, in the EUice group, near the centre of the
Pacific, was chosen for the purpose ; and several successive
expeditions, under the leadership first of Professor Sollas, of
Oxford, and afterwards of Professor Edgeworth David, of
Sydney, eventually, after many difficulties, succeeded in
boring through the reef to a depth of 1,114 feet, and in
bringing home a core formed of various layers of coral
and other calcareous structures, which was most carefully
examined from end to end, microscopically and chemically,
and has been exhaustively discussed in a valuable report
pubHshed by the Royal Society. Extraordinary to relate,
this boring of Funafuti has not settled the matter. The
upholders of the two rival theories each find in the Funafuti
core support^f or their own views. Professor Sollas and other
supporters of Darwin maintain that the corals found in the
core at depths of over 1,000 feet prove that the reef is based
upon what was once living coral in situ, which has been carried
bodily down by subsidence from the shallow water in which
it lived to that depth at which it was found ; while Murray
and his adherents answered : " Not at all. The present
reef of Funafuti has grown out upon a talus of broken
fragments, the boring has gone down through that talus,
and the corals in the core are not in situ, but are pieces
which have broken off from the edge of the reef and rolled
down into deeper water."
There seems no way at present of settling the matter
further ; but it is very possible that both theories are
partly right and partly wrong, and that different atolls
have been formed in different ways. In a slowly sinking
area no doubt Darwin's theory would apply, and a fringing
208 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
reef would become first a barrier reef and then an atoll.
But in other areas which are stationary, or slowly rising,
platforms for coral reefs might be provided, as Murray
supposed ; and the coral growth, once formed, would no
doubt become converted into the ring-like atoll-shape by
natural processes, in accordance with Murray's views. It
is probable, however, that Murray attached too much
importance to solution, and that the lagoon is formed more
by mechanical erosion than by chemical processes. Great
destruction of the dead coral in the lagoon is now known
to be effected by the scouring action of tidal currents and
by boring algse, moUusca, and worms, and by the ravages
of fishes and Holothurians, which feed to a great extent
upon the broken-up coral on the floor of the lagoon.
The late Dr. A. G. Mayer, of the Carnegie Institution of
Washington, for several years recently made important
investigations on the coral reefs both of Florida and Tortugas
in the Atlantic, and of Samoa in the Pacific, and found
that the rate of growth of reef-building corals in the Pacific
was about twice as rapid as that of corresponding genera
in the Atlantic, where there is much more precipitated coral
mud and the food conditions are less favourable. He
estimated that the existing reefs in the Pacific might easily
have grown to their present dimensions in 30,000 years —
since the last glacial epoch. He found at Samoa that the
corals, at their present rate of growth, add annually about
840,000 lb. of limestone to the reef ; but that, on the other
hand, about four times that quantity (3,000,000 lb.) is
being removed annually by the coral-eating Holothurians;
aided by currents. Dr. Mayer made a boring through the
fringing reef at Pago-Pago, Samoa, in 1918, at 575 feet
from the shore, and came upon volcanic rock underlying
the coral at a depth of 121 feet (20 fathoms), just the right
depth for a platform suitable for reef-building corals.
W. M. Davis, of Harvard, from a critical examination
of the physical features of islands and their coral reefs, comes
CORAL REEFS AND ISLANDS 209
to conclusions (1919) favourable to Darwin's theory. He
lays stress upon embay ments of the coast -lines due to
erosion and the haK-drowned valleys as proof of submergence,
and he points to the unconformity between the coral reef
and the underlying rock which is eroded, and therefore was
once exposed to the air, which again is evidence of sub-
mergence. But these characters only prove that subsidence
took place before the coral reef was formed upon the imder-
lying rock, and do not show that the land was still sinking
while the fringing reef was growing up to become a barrier
reef or an atoll — which is the theory put forward by Darwin.
It is unnecessary to discuss every view that has been
put forward by investigators of the coral-reef problem, but
one other of outstanding importance must be mentioned.
R. A. Daly, of Harvard, in a series of papers since 1915,
has advocated what is known as the " glacial-control "
theory, which is, that existing coral reefs are very recent,
and have been formed only during late glacial and post-
glacial times ; that the pre-existing tropical reefs had been
exterminated in glacial times, when, he estimates, the water
withdrawn from circulation and locked up in the form of
ice may have lowered the level of the ocean in tropi-
cal regions by as much as 50 to 70 metres ; that the
melting of the glaciers set free a great volume of water, ^
becoming rapidly warmer, which caused the tropical oceans
to deepen gradually and permit the newly estabhshed coral
reefs to form as thin veneers upon the numerous shallow
platforms which had been produced by erosion or wave-
action during the previous pre-glacial and glacial periods.
As the water became warmer, reefs would be formed round
the edges of these platforms as a consequence of the newly
established coral colonies growing upwards to keep pace
with the gradual deepening caused by the water set free
from the ice slowly raising the level of the ocean.
^ But the question arises whether this water may not have been
locked up again by increasing glaciation in the Antarctic.
P
210 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
It seems that A. Tylor, T. Belt, and others, had to some
extent anticipated Daly in attributing the origin of existing
coral reefs to a change in the ocean level consequent on
deglaciation ; but Daly has discussed the matter much
more fully than his predecessors in all its bearings, and has
brought forward many new facts in support of his views.
The glacial-control theory is fundamentally opposed to
the Darwin-Dana theory, but is not inconsistent with
Murray's theory, from which it differs in details, such as
the method of formation of the platforms, but not in general
principle. Daly doubts whether archipelagos of atolls and
barrier reefs ever existed before the glacial period, though
possibly rare atolls may have been developed locally where
a limited subsidence affected the floor of the Tertiary ocean.
In conclusion, it may be remarked that every serious
investigator of coral reefs seems to have added something
of importance, and that each of them, according to our
present views, seems to be right on some points and wrong
on others. It must be remembered that it is unlikely that
one theory will explain all the details of all reefs, which may
lie thousands of miles apart, and may have been formed under
very different conditions.
Darwin and Dana showed how an atoll might be formed
on an area of subsidence, but their theory does not apply
to most atolls and barrier reefs that have been carefully
examined.
Semper and A. Agassiz were correct in their criticisms of
Darwin*s theory in the case of the reefs they had investigated,
and showed that atolls might be present where there was
no subsidence.
Murray was right in his views as to the formation of
submarine platforms, and the possibility of these being
built up to the required level, and also as to the process
by which a coral patch would naturally assume the atoll
form, but he was probably wrong as to the formation of
lagoons by solution.
CORAL REEFS AND ISLANDS 211
Wharton and others have emphasized the importance of
the levelling action of the sea on submarine peaks in order
to provide flat areas on which coral patches and atolls
might form.
As an important supplementary theory, Daly has advo-
cated " glacial-control," i.e., that the melting of glaciers
and snow at the end of the great Ice Age set free so much
water as to raise gradually the level of the ocean about
30 fathoms, and so submerge the bases of the newly
established reefs to that extent, which would have the same
effect upon their growth as a sinking of the land to that
amount ; but this would be only a temporary and strictly
limited raising of the sea upon the land, not comparable
with the continuous subsidence postulated by Darwin.
I would remark, finally, that even if his theory has to be
rejected, as not applicable to the majority of coral reefs
and islands, Darwin did notable service to science in stating
the coral-reef problem and attempting its solution.
CHAPTER XII
"PHOSPHORESCENCE," OR LUMINESCENCE, IN
THE SEA
One of the most widespread and most commonly observed,
and at the same time most remarkable and mysterious, of
the phenomena of the ocean is the so-called " phosphores-
cence." Most summer visitors to the seaside and voyagers
in ocean liners are familiar with the diffused glow of light
in the water on a dark night, or the innumerable brilUant
sparkles seen where a wave breaks on the shore, or an oar
or a rope ruffles the surface, or when a coin or small stone
is dropped over the side of a boat and leaves the track of
its passage through the water illumined by points of light.
All this has been known from the earliest times, and there
are many records from observers of the phosphorescence
of the sea in all parts of the world, tropics and polar alike,
and almost as many speculations as to the cause and essential
nature of the phenomena observed.
The term " phosphorescence " is unfortunate, as it is apt
to lead to confusion with mineral phosphorescence, while
the light in the sea is now known to be due solely to the
luminosity of certain living organisms under certain condi-
tions, and has no connection with the chemical element
phosphorus. The more correct term, made use of by
the most recent investigators, is " bio -luminescence," or
briefly the noncommittal word " luminescence " to which
I shall adhere in this discussion of the subject.
The organisms producing this Hght in the sea are of many
kinds — both animals and plants, large and small, highly
212
PLATE XIII.
Fig. 1.— Common Shore Amphipoda ; slightly enlarged.
Fig. 2. — Luminescent Ctenophora (Pleurobrachia pileus, etc.); natural size.
[Photos by A. Scott.
LUMINESCENCE IN THE SEA 213
and lowly organized. Luminescence is produced also in
the case of a few land animals and plants, such as some
earth-worms, millipedes, and various insects (beetles), the
best known of which are glow-worms and fire -flies ; but is
not known to occur in any fresh-water organism. It is
therefore a widespread, but by no means universal, accom-
paniment of life — a vital phenomenon, only manifested
by certain living things, and by these only under certain
conditions.
In the sea the organisms that give rise to luminescence
range from the simplest minute unicellular forms (Protozoa,
Protophyta, and Bacteria) up to Fishes, and the modes of
emittiQg the light and the appearances thus produced are
most varied. The following list is not intended to be
exhaustive, but merely to give a few examples of each of the
cliief kinds of organisms that contribute most notably to the
different appearances of luminescence : —
Bacteria. — Many of these micro-organisms (e.g., the
various forms of Photohacterium and Microspira) cause a
flickering glow in the water, on wet sand, and on the bodies
of fishes and other larger organisms. Fishermen and
naturahsts since the days of Aristotle have noticed that
dead fish may glow in the dark, and this is not due to the
bacteria of putrefaction, but to the photobacteria of the
living fish, as when putrefaction sets in the luminescence
ceases.
In other cases the photobacteria may invade the body
of a larger organism, give rise to a disease, and cause it to
glow in the dark. The late Professor Giard, while walking
(in 1889) on the sands of Wimereux at night, noticed spots
of light at his feet which moved from place to place, and,
on catching some of these, found them to be living, but
enfeebled, " sand-hoppers " (the Amphipods Talitrus and
Orchestia). Investigation in the laboratory showed that
the body was infested with photobacteria, that these caused
progressive enfeeblement of the muscular system, and
214 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
finally death, and that the infection could be transmitted
from one sand-hopper to another. (Plate XIII, Fig. 1.)
It is evident, then, that the luminescence of a larger
marine animal is not necessarily due to the production of
light from its own body, but may be caused by an invasion
of photobacteria.
Protophyta. — Minute unicellular plants in the surface
layers of the sea are probably the cause of a good deal
of the dull, generally diffused glow, which has been called
" milky sea " in the Far East, " white water " in the Gulf of
Aden and elsewhere. Sir John Murray considered that
the unicellular plant Pyrocystis (possibly a Dinofiagellate
allied to Noctiluca) is the chief cause of the diffused light
often seen in tropical seas in calm weather.
Protozoa. — Many of the Flagellata exhibit luminescence,
especially those belonging to the group Dinoflagellata (such
as Ceratium SindPeridinium), which have been known to be
luminous since the time of Ehrenberg (1831), and possibly
earlier. I have proved to my own satisfaction, through the
microscope, that the bright sparkles in a sample taken from
a luminescent sea on the west coast of Scotland were caused
by the abundant Dinofiagellate Ceratium tripos (Plate XIV,
Fig. 2) ; and similarly in the Southern Ocean, off the
Cape of Good Hope, I once found that the organism lighting
up the sea by night and colouring it almost blood-red by
day was a small red Peridinium present in extraordinary
abundance.
The aberrant Dinofiagellate Noctiluca scintillans (Plate
XIV, Fig. 1) is the generally recognized cause of a great deal
of the silvery luminescence of our home seas round the coasts
of North-west Europe in summer and autumn, when this little
organism is sometimes so abundant that every dip of a
cup in the sea will contain hundreds, and every tide leaves
pink- coloured masses of their bodies piled up on the sands.
In the Irish Sea, for example, Noctiluca is very generally
present in the plankton, and enormous swarms appear from
PLATE XIV.
f.^>
^
■^^
^
''?l^
h.
• ^i
Fig. 1. — Plankton, consisting almost
wholly of Noctiluca scintillans.
Fig. 2. — The Luminescent Dinoflagel-
late Ceratium tripos.
Fig. 3. — Copepoda {Pseud ocalanus elongatus) from the surface-net.
All magnified.
[Photo-micrographs by A. Scott.
LUMINESCENCE IN THE SEA 215
time to time, for the most part in late summer, August and
September. An unusually late and very extensive visitation
occurred in December, 1919, when in some parts of the
Barrow Channel there was a well-marked brick-red oily
zone on the beach caused by the stranded Noctiluca, and
a bucket of the shore-water was compared by observers to
*' thick tomato soup," and after the sea- water was drained
off it was found to contain fully 2,000 cubic centimetres
of Noctiluca. Some of these placed in a small aquarium
retained their power of luminescence for three weeks.
Noctiluca has been known as a common cause of lumines-
cence in coastal waters for at least two centuries. In the
middle of last century, A. de Quatrefages made notable
observations on Noctiluca, in which he showed that the
light was emitted from well-defined patches or slowly moving
areas of the surface, each composed of a large number of
scintillating points.
Many of the Radiolaria, both simple and compound, also
show bright luminescence.
CoELENTERATA. — Many of the Hydroid Zoophytes, the
Medusae, and the Alcyonarian Corals show brilliant lumines-
cence. There is no need to mention all recorded cases, or
even groups : a few examples wiU suffice. Some of the
Medusae are responsible for the large spots of light, as large
as a coco-nut or a tea-tray, sometimes seen by voyagers,
especially in warmer seas. Once when at anchor, in a
native boat, on the pearl banks of the Gulf of Manaar, in
an intensely dark night, I saw the black sea around us in
all directions lit up by an innumerable assemblage of what
looked like globes of fire, waxing and waning in brightness,
all simultaneously glowing and then fading away into dark-
ness, and after a few seconds lighting up once more. This
periodic display continued for about an hour and then
disappeared. Unfortunately, we were fixed to the spot and
had no smaU boat, so it was impossible to capture a sample,
but the impression produced was that the phenomenon
216 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
was probably caused by a vast swarm of Medusae excited
to luminescence by either an internal periodic or an external
accidental stimulation, such as a passing fish or a colUsion
of two or more of the Medusae. The stimulation of one of
the crowd might be sufficient to start them all. The appear-
ance from the deck of our ship was as if first one of the globes
lit up and then another and another in rapid succession,
suggesting that the luminescence of the one was stimulating
the others to similar action.
The most brilliant light-producing Medusa in our own
seas is Pelagia noctiluca. A small tankful of them once
gave us a magnificent display in the dark at the Port Erin
Biological Station, and when taken out in a bucket they
looked like balls of fire, or rather incandescent metal, as
the light is white and very intense. It was difficult to
believe it would not burn one's fingers when touched.
Alexander Agassiz has recorded that in the luminous
Ctenophora (such as Pleurobrachia, Plate XIII, Fig. 2), not
only the adults but even young embryos are luminous, which
shows that the light -producing material is not necessarily
the secretion of a special gland, but may be formed in the
protoplasm of the early cells.
The colonial Coelenterates, when luminescent, remind one
of fireworks or electric -light displays, as all the polypes, or
groups of poljrpes, glow out one after another till the whole
series of branches are ablaze. It is impossible to resist the
conclusion that the stimulus spreads from one member of
the colony to another. This is typically the case in the
well-known sea-pen Pennatula phosjjhorea, so named by
Linnaeus in the eighteenth century, but known as a luminous
animal by Gesner a couple of centuries before, and probably
by others still earlier. (See Plate XVI, Fig. 1.)
This, like Noctiluca, is a classical example of luminescence
amongst British animals ; and when taken into a dark
cabin immediately on being brought up in the dredge,
Pennatula fhosphorea is a wonderfully beautiful sight. The
LUMINESCENCE IN THE SEA 217
slightest mechanical stimulation is sufficient to start some
of the polypes, and the impulse is then communicated to
others until every branch and polype is outlined with light
Like a series of fairy-lamps. Panceri, who studied the
luminosity of many marine animals in the Mediterranean,
showed that the luminous matter in Pennatula is produced
by eight bands of tissue in the interior of each polype,
extending up to papillae surrounding the mouth, so that
the secretion was poured out on the surface when lumines-
cence took place. The display is, however, in the main,
clearly an illumination of the polypes. That is not the
case in the closely allied giant sea-pen Funiculina quadrangu-
laris (Plate XV, Fig. 1, a dozen specimens about yV ^^^- size),
where the colony may attain a length of 5 to 6 feet,
and the light is emitted from the mucus on the surface,
especially of the axis or stem. I have had both these kinds
of sea-pen, freshly dredged in the Hebridean seas, glowing
side by side in a tub in the dark on my yacht '' Runa," and
in the case of Funiculina, the light, which was of a Hlac
colour, compared by Wyville Thomson (Depths of the Sea,
p. 149) to the flame of cyanogen gas, came mainly from the
surface of the fleshy stem or axis of the colony. The
slightest stimulation, such as gentle stroking with the finger,
caused great outbursts of light to travel like lambent flames
up and down the stem, while the polypes remained com-
paratively, if not wholly, in the dark (Plate XV, Fig. 2).
G. H. Parker has shown lately that the Alcyonarian colony
Renilla, which glows with a beautiful golden green light,
spreading over the surface in wave-like ripples from the
spot stimulated, can only be excited to luminescence in the
night. He was unable to cause any light -production during
the day, which suggests that it cannot be wholly a physico-
chemical process, but must be in part under nerve-control.
In Pennatula and Funiculina, on the other hand, in my
experiments on the yacht, I found no difficulty in exciting
brilliant luminescence at any hour of the day.
218 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
EcHiNODERMATA. — Comparatively few of these are known
to produce light. Some Ophiuroids (" Brittle-stars "),
however, show a brilhant luminescence, which in the case of
Ophiacantha spinulosa is said to be of a uranium green colour.
Wyville Thomson, describing some specimens dredged
from deep water south-west of Ireland, writes : " The
light from Ophiacantha spinulosa was of a brilliant green,
corruscating from the centre of the disc, now along one
arm, now along another, and sometimes vividly illuminating
the whole outHne of the starfish." In this and a few other
Ophiuroids the light has been shown by recent investigations
to come from internal cells in the tissues of the ventral and
lateral plates and spines of the arms.
Vermes. — Many of the higher worms; or Annelids, are
luminescent. In the Polynoids the light is emitted from
definite light-organs arranged round the posterior edge of
the elytra or scales which cover the dorsal surface of the
worm, and as the eljrtra continue to glow with a bright
light for some time after being detached from the body,
this seems to be a case where the use to the animal of its
luminescence is to distract the attention of the fish, crab,
or other enemy.
In some of the Syllid worms the light -production is
definitely related to reproduction, and is apparently of use
in enabling the male to find the female on the surface of
the sea during the periodic swarming for the purpose of
mating. The light is produced from very definite Hght-glands
placed in lateral series at the bases of the parapodia.
The light from some of these Annelids is described as
violet blue, and in other cases as greenish blue. I have
frequently seen a most vivid green light produced by a
small polychaet worm which we dig up from the sand or
from the debris round the roots of Laminaria at Port Erin.
The light is even visible for a few seconds in the sunlight.
But the most brilUantly luminescent of all marine worms
is certainly the tube-building Chcetopterus, which was studied
PLATE XV.
Fig. 2. — Funiculina quad-
rangularis. Small part of
a colony, alive in sea -water,
with polypes expanded ;
about natural size.
Dredged in Firth of
Lorn, from S.Y. "Runa."
in 1912.
Fig. 1. — Funiculina quad-
rangularis. Group of a
dozen colonies about yV
natural size.
[Photos by K. Newstead.
LUMINESCENCE IN THE SEA 219
by Panceri (1873), Dubois (1887), and others since. The
light, which varies from greenish blue to violet, is given
ofiF from most of the segments of the body, and is evidently
an external secretion, as it can be rubbed off and spread
through the surrounding water.
The use of the light in the case of Chcetopterus remains
a mystery. It will probably illuminate the water around
the mouth of the tube, and that may possibly attract minute
organisms upon which the worm feeds. But, on the other
hand, this illumination might well be a source of danger,
as indicating to fish the presence of the hidden worm.
Dahlgren has recorded that he has seen eels pulling the
Chcetopterus out of its tube. This is evidently not a case
where the enemy is warned off from its prey by the light.
Crustacea. — Many of the Crustacea, both high and low,
are Ught-producing, and the light-organs range in structure
from simple groups of surface cells to the most complicated
eye-Hke internal organs. For the purpose of this brief
survey, it must suffice to select three examples— the Ostra-
coda, such as Cypridina ; Copepoda, such as Metridia ; and
Schizopoda, such as Meganyctiphanes.
Cypridina and other luminous Ostracods have been
observed by many naturahsts, and the minute structure
and the bio-chemical processes involved have been especially
elucidated by Ulric Dahlgren and E. N. Harvey in America.
The Hght-organs are unicellular glands opening above the
mouth and discharging the Hght-producing, mucus-Uke,
yellow secretion freely into the water. The light is blue
in colour, and is only produced at night. Harvey has shown
(as Dubois had previously done in the case of the mollusc
Pholas) that the secretion contains two distinct substances,
which must be brought together in the presence of oxygen
and water in order to produce light. Dubois had named
these "luciferine" and "lucif erase" in Pholas. Harvey,
finding that his two substances from Cypridina did not corre-
spond wholly in their reactions, appUed the new terms ** pho-
220 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
togen " and ' ' photophelein " — which, we may hope, further
research will show to be unnecessary. Harvey showed that
these essential substances might be dried, extracted with
ether, or treated in various other ways, without affecting
their power of subsequently producing light. The process,
then, is quite independent of the animal body in which the
substances were produced, and so far is a physico-chemical
phenomenon. Similarly, Giesbrecht found that he could
thoroughly dry some of the luminous Copepoda at Naples,
and months afterwards caused these dried bodies to produce
light by adding a little sea-water.
The power of luminescence has only been definitely estab-
lished in the case of about half a dozen kinds of Copepoda
(Plate XIV, Fig 3), but some of these are widely distributed,
and have been frequently observed. The light-glands are
scattered over various parts of the body and pour their
secretion out to the exterior. On a voyage to Australia
by the South Atlantic, I observed on many occasions these
luminescent Copepoda caught in fine nets on the sea-water
bath taps ; and, having isolated one of the sparkhng speci-
mens under the microscope in the dark, have watched how
its luminous secretion was emitted on stimulation, and,
spreading from the head along the dorsal surface, floated
away from the body and hung in the water for some seconds
as a luminous cloud. This has been interpreted as pos-
sibly of use as a '' sacrifice-lure." The Copepod, when in
danger, emits the glowing secretion and escapes, leaving the
luminous cloud in the water to distract the attention of the
enemy.
In the luminescent Schizopoda (such as Euphausia and
Meganyctiphanes) the light-producing organs are conspicuous,
highly organized structures, comparable in some respects
with an eye or a buU's-eye lantern, and having a source of
light with a reflector behind and a lens in front. They
were, in fact, supposed to be eyes at first, and are described
in the older books under the term " accessory eyes." It
PLATE XVI.
[Photo by R. Newstead.
Fig, 1. — Pennatula phosphorea, half a dozen colonies alive in a jar
of sea -water ; natural size.
[Photo by A. Fleming.
Fig. 2.- — MeganyctijyJianes norvegica, from deep water, Loch Fyne ;
natural size.
LUMINESCENCE IN THE SEA 221
was the naturalists of the " Challenger " expedition who
demonstrated that these were organs for the production,
not the reception, of Hght.
The usual arrangement of these photospheres, as they
have been called, is — a pair on the head behind the true
eyes, two pairs on the sides of the thorax, and four
median ventral on the first four segments of the abdo-
men.
In British seas, Meganyctiphanes norvegica (Plate XVI,
Fig. 2), is abundant in deep water off the western coasts, and
frequently comes to the surface in swarms at night. On
several occasions in the Hebrides, when we brought some
up in the deep tow-net, I have taken a few in a large
jar of sea- water into a darkened cabin and watched how,
on stimulation, they have lit up their little lamps and
sailed round and round the jar — a beautiful sight. Two
or three such, freshly caught, gave sufficient light to
enable one to read for a few seconds the newspaper on
which the jar was placed. In the case of aU these photo-
spheres of Meganyctiphanes and some alUed Crustacea, the
light is internal, and is produced in a closed organ in
which the oxygen necessary for the luminescence must be
obtained from the blood. The photosphere is always
well suppUed with blood sinuses and with nerves. It
has been suggested that the light may be of use to these
animals in enabling them to see their prey, or whatever lies
in front or below the head.
MoLLUSCA. — I select two examples of luminescence from
this group of animals — first, the classic case of Pholas, the
bivalve that bores deep holes in stiff clay or in soft rocks
on the seashore, and in which Dubois first demonstrated
the presence of luciferine and lucif erase as the essential sub-
stances concerned in the production of light ; and secondly,
the Cephalopoda, or cuttle-fishes, in some of which compli-
cated closed light-organs are present on various parts of the
body.
222 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
In the case of Pholas, the light -producing power has been
known since classical times, but Panceri (1873) first deter-
mined that the light-giving mucus was produced, not from
the whole surface that it usually covers, but from five definite
patches of the integument. These are, then, external organs
formed of simple cellular glands in the deeper layer of the
skin, and pouring out the luminous secretion on the surface.
Dubois later (1887) showed that this secretion contained the
two essential substances luciferine and luciferase, which
require to be brought into contact in the presence of water
in order to produce light, and that this action was inde-
pendent of the life of the PJiolas, and could still take place
after the substances had been dried or treated with various
reagents. The light-production was, in fact, shown to be
a chemical phenomenon which could be produced in the
laboratory by substances which were no longer alive,
although originally formed by a living animal.
The colour of the light in Pholas is greenish blue, and
very brilHant and persistent even after separation from the
body ; but it is difficult to say what the use can be to an
animal deeply buried at the bottom of a hole in the rock
— unless it be that the luminous secretion spreads from the
body up to and around the mouth of the burrow and acts
as an attraction to minute swimming organisms, which are
then sucked in and used as food. (See Fig. 12.)
In the highest group of molluscs, the cuttle-fishes, we find
both primitive light-producing glands, which eject their
secretion into the surrounding water, where the luciferine
and luciferase in contact with oxygen generate light (external
combustion), and also most elaborate and more deeply
placed organs, under nerve-control, with internal combus-
tion, the photogenous secretion never leaving the cells in
which it is formed.
The most highly differentiated of these closed photogenous
organs show cornea, lens, and reflectors arranged around
the central light-producing ceUs, the whole being surrounded
LUMINESCENCE IN THE SEA 223
by a protecting coat or capsule, and presenting, as in the
case of the higher Crustacea, a singular resemblance to the
structure of an eye.
The cuttle-fish lights have generally been described as
blue, but in the case of the deep-sea Thaumatolampas diadema
most of the twenty-two organs scattered over the body
Fig. 12. — Three specimens of Pholas ddctylus in their burrows, nat. size.
show a white light, the two anal lights are ruby-red, a
median visceral light is ultramarine, and two ocular lights
are sky-blue. Whether all these different colours are pro"
duced in the cells from which the light emanates, or, as seems
more probable, are caused by some of the layers of tissue
through which the light passes to the exterior, is not yet
224
FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
fully known, but the two ruby lights owe their colour to a
screen of red chromatophores in the skin (Fig. 13).
TuNiCATA (Ascidians). — Only one, very remarkable, case
need be discussed in this group — that of Pyrosoma. This is a
large, free-swimming colony in the form of a hollow cylinder
Fig. 13. — Sketch of Deep-sea Luminous Cuttle-fish with numerous
light-organs.
with one end closed (Fig 14). The walls of the cyHnder
are formed of the ascidiozooids, or members of the colony,
placed closely side by side, with their mouths on the outer
surface. Each ascidiozooid has two photogenous glands
placed one on each side of the anterior end of the body a
little behind the mouth, and therefore close to the outer
surface of the colony. Each gland consists of a mass of
Fig. 14. — Small Colony of Pyrosoma^ natural size.
granular cells surrounded by a blood sinus. The light is
described as red in some cases and blue in others, and as a
colony only a few inches in length may have several thou-
sands of these sparkling points, the volume of light emitted
LUMINESCENCE IN THE SEA 225
makes Pyrosoma one of the most brilliantly luminescent
animals of tropical seas.
As in Pennatula and many other cases, any stimulation
serves to excite luminescence in Pyrosoma, and Moseley,
in his Notes of a Naturalist, states that, when the " Chal-
lenger " expedition captured a specimen over 4 feet in
length, " I wrote my name with my finger on the surface
of the giant Pyrosoma as it lay on deck in a tub at night,
and my name came out in a few seconds in letters of
fire."
Fishes. — Deep-sea luminous fishes have been well known
since the time of the " Challenger " expedition. A few of
the more notable forms belong to the genera ScopeluSy
Chauliodus, Astronesthes, and Photostomias. The Hght-organs
may be in various positions on the head, on the giU-covers,
along the sides of the body, or on the ventral surface.
Ipnops murrayi has two very large photogenous organs
occupjdng most of the flattened upper surface of the head.
Melanocetus johnsoni has the light on the extremity of a
long flexible process from the top of the head, so as to form
a lure which may attract prey to the wide-open, formidable
mouth below. There is also much variety in the structures.
The essential glandular parts of the organs are probably
in aU cases enlargements and differentiations of the mucous
glands of the skin, and the reflectors and other accessory
layers are developed from the surrounding integumentary
tissues. All these light-producing organs of fishes are well
supphed with nerves.
It is possible that luminescence in deep-sea fishes may
serve a number of useful purposes, such as general illumina-
tion of the surrounding water, the attraction of prey, pro-
tection and warning, and it has even been suggested that
the specific arrangement of the lights facihtates recognition
by other members of the same species, like colour-schemes
in terrestrial animals. Murray and Hjort have shown that
many of the tropical luminous fishes do not come from the
226 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
greatest depths, but inhabit intermediate waters, and may
even appear at the surface of the sea at night.
Here, then, we have a great phenomenon of the ocean
— of all oceans — and at all depths, appearing sometimes in
one form and sometimes in another : it may be as a dull
continuous glow, or it may be seen as myriads of brilUant
sparks, Hke a pjrrotechnic display, and in all cases caused
by the presence in the water of living creatures. These
luminescent organisms are of the most varied kinds, from
the lowest and simplest up to fishes, from particles of
microscopic size up to the gigantic Pyrosoma, and the light
may be produced within a simple protoplasmic cell, or it
may be emitted from a complicated organ composed of
many layers of cells. It may be a constant, steady light
apparently independent of surrounding conditions, or an
instantaneous flash produced as the result of direct stimula-
tion, and evidently under nerve-control. And yet the actual
method of production of the light is probably in all cases
the same, and is essentially a physico-chemical process,
consisting of the slow oxidation of one or more protein
substances secreted by the living protoplasm. Moreover,
in many cases, it may be so in all, it has been shown that
two substances must be produced — the protein, called luci-
ferine, and an enzyme, luciferase — which must be brought
into contact in the presence of oxygen in order to produce
the characteristic apparently cold light. Bio-luminescence
differs from all artificial illuminants in being an emission
of light without any sensible heat. It is a conversion of
chemical energy into radiant energy. The light is a physical
accompaniment of the chemical metabolism of the organism,
part of the energy set free taking this form in place of the
more usual one of heat. It is a highly efficient method of
light production; and it has been stated that the best
artificial illuminant has only about four per cent, of the
luminous efiiciency of the fire-fly.
LUMINESCENCE IN THE SEA 227
As we have seen, it was the French physiologist Raphael
Dubois who first determined the presence of luciferine and
luciferase in the case of the marine boring bivalve mollusc
Pholas dactylus, and also in the case of a terrestrial insect,
the luminous beetle Pyrophorus noctilucus, and showed the
part these proteins played in the production of light ; but
the discovery has since been extended to the luminous organs
and secretions of various other animals, especially by the
recent work of the American investigators, Ukic Dahlgren
and E. Newton Harvey. The latter finds that although
the luciferines and luciferases of different luminous animals
are similar substances, they are not identical, but are abso-
lutely specific ; for the luciferine, for example, of animal
A (say a Mollusc) will not give Hght with the luciferase of
animal B (a Crustacean), and the luciferine of B gives no
light with the luciferase of A.
Another point, requiring further investigation into the
chemistry of these substances, is the relation between their
composition and the various very distinct colours of the
Light produced. Observers speak of the silvery light of
Noctiluca, the green glow of Ctenophores, the brilliant
blue of the Httle Crustacean Cypridina, the lilac flashes of
some sea-pens, the ruby-red of a cuttle-fish, and the dim
white light produced over large areas of the ocean by
minute luminous Protozoa in the case of the so-called
" milky sea " or " white water " in the GuK of Aden,
the China Sea, the Indian Ocean, and elsewhere in the
tropics.
Newton Harvey, in his most recent work (January, 1923),
has shown that the luminescent reaction in such a case as
Cypridina is probably represented by the equation —
Luciferine + oxygen = oxy-luciferine -f water.
But the presence of luciferase, acting as a catalyst, is
also necessary for the production of light. Moreover, the
action is reversible, and the oxy-luciferine formed can be
reduced back to luciferine, which will again oxidize under
228 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
the appropriate conditions. Harvey suggests that the
steady luminescence of organisms such as Bacteria, which
go on glowing day and night, may be due to continuous
oxidation of luciferine to oxy-luciferine and reduction of
oxy-luciferine to luciferine again in different parts of the
protoplasm of the same cell. This is a highly economical
process of light-production, as no sensible heat is emitted
— the radiation is apparently all cold Hght.
The two essential substances can be isolated, and when
the reaction is performed in a test-tube the light is only
produced on the surface of the fluid where the luciferine
can obtain oxygen from the air. Any shake or other
stimulation of the tube which enables the fluid to dissolve
more oxygen is enough to cause an increased glow or a
flash of light like that produced by many luminous animals
on stimulation. This observation suggests that, in some
cases at least, the light produced in the living animal, either
by external or internal stimulus, is a consequence of more
oxygen reaching the photogenous cells as the result of some
increase of permeabiUty of the surface layer. This, however,
will apparently not explain all cases of light-production
on stimulation, and Newton Harvey thinks it doubtful
whether stimulation can cause any sudden increase in the
permeability of the luminescent cells to oxygen.
Finally, it may be asked — What is the use to the organism
concerned of this remarkable production of cold light by
means of the oxidation of one or more protein substances
secreted by the living protoplasm but retaining the power
of light -production, in some cases, at least, long after separa-
tion from the body ? It is not necessary to suppose direct
utility in all cases. In the lowest organisms where there
is a steady glow not depending upon any stimulation, it may
be that the light is merely a by-product of metabolism,
that is, of the chemical processes going on in the living
protoplasm and resulting in the production of light just as of
heat in other cases. But where the photogenous secretion
LUMINESCENCE IN THE SEA 229
is the product of a special gland or of definite organs which
may have a complicated structure comparable mechanically
to an eye or a bull's-eye lantern, and where the emission
of light is a direct response to special stimulation (as in
higher Crustacea and fishes) utility must be assumed ; and
the different colours and intensities of the light produced,
the different forms and situations of the glands or photo-
spheres and the different light schemes or patterns all suggest
that the use is not one and the same in all cases, but may
differ widely in the different luminous organisms.
In stating these uses we are on somewhat uncertain
ground. Much experimental evidence is necessary, such as
can only be obtained on oceanographic expeditions and by
observations on the living organisms at biological stations.
But it seems probable (1) that luminous lures such as are
seen on some fishes may serve as an attraction or bait for
prey ; (2) that some photospheres may be recognition marks
for the attraction of other individuals of the same species
for mating or other purposes ; (3) that the sudden flashing
of light may be a protection of an alarming or warning
nature to enemies, like the brilliant colours and threatening
attitudes of some land animals (possibly the warning may
be an indication of a distasteful animal to be avoided as
food) ; (4) that the luminous clouds of secretion sometimes
emitted may distract an enemy and allow an active Copepod
to escape ; (5) that a detached luminous fragment cast off
from the body may be a " sacrifice lure " to deceive the
enemy ; (6) that in the case of some stationary animals
where the nutrition depends upon ciHary currents or upon
waving tentacles, the light may attract swarms of minute
organisms which can then be captured as food ; and (7)
that in the case of predaceous animals prowling about the
dark sea-bottom, lights on the head, near the eyes or on the
lower surface of the body may be of use for general illumina-
tion of the abysses in the constant search for food.
The various cells, tissues and organs that give rise to
230 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
luminescence in marine organisms may be regarded as an
evolutionary series. Starting with the emission of light
from a single cell as a non-utilitarian incident of the meta-
boUsm of the living protoplasm, we may imagine this vital
characteristic becoming of survival value in some sets of
organisms and not in others, according to the difference of
environment and habits. Furthermore, the value of one
type of light -production might be greater in one set of animals
than that of another type in a different set. Thus super-
ficial photogenous tissue, or more deeply seated glands, a
more general diffusion, or a concentration in special photo-
spheres, might each be of more use in one case than in
another under different environmental conditions. Thus
we can imagine the gradual evolution through the ages,
under the action of variation and natural selection or elimina-
tion, of the different kinds of luminescent organs in accord-
ance with their survival value in one kind of animal or
another — and thus the diversity of the light-producing organs
and their sporadic distribution in the animal kingdom does
not seem unnatural. We can, at any rate, imagine a possible
explanation of the mystery, and hope that further experi-
mental work will throw much needed light upon the real
utility of the various types of luminescence.
CHAPTER XIII
PLANKTON : ITS NATURE AND INVESTIGATION
The animals and plants that live in the sea have been
divided, according to their habits and the regions they
inhabit, into the following three sets : —
1. Benthos — those that live attached to or crawling over
the sea-bottom.
2. Nekton — Those that swim freely in the water.
3. Plankton — those that float or drift in the water with
little or no powers of independent locomotion.
'x:-^
Surface of Sea
J^sritic Oceanic
7y/////y9d\Mero-plankton Holo-plankton
-'y^'^ Zoo-plankton
\%K and
^/^iP\^ Phyto- plankton
Epi-plankton
Meso-plankton
Bathy- plankton
The term " Plankton " was introduced by Victor Hensen
in 1887, and was popularized by Ernst Haeckel a few years
later {Plankton-Studien, 1890), and classified under various
subdivisions such as Phyto- and Zoo-plankton, Neritic and
Oceanic, Macro- and Micro-plankton, Epi-, Meso- and Bathy-
plankton, and other convenient groups according to the
nature and habitat of the organisms (see Fig. 15). Holo-
231
232 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
planktonic forms are such as remain free and pelagic during
the whole of their life (Diatoms, Copepoda, etc.), and Mero-
planktonic those that are transitory only, such as the embry-
onic, larval and other free stages of benthonic animals
(Coelenterates, Echinoderms, Molluscs and many others).
Fig. 2, on Plate XVII, shows the appearance under the
microscope of a sample of mixed plankton containing both
plants and animals, both holo- and mero-planktonic.
The importance of the plankton in the scheme of nature
and in relation to the nutrition of the larger animals of the
benthos and the nektonic fishes can scarcely be overstated,
and many investigators all over the world — on special
expeditions and at biological stations — during the last half-
century, have made contributions to knowledge of the nature
of the plankton and its detailed distribution both in space
and time and the many other problems of its occurrence.
Fig. 1, on Plate XVII, shows the plankton net outfit on a
Yacht engaged in scientific work.
The earlier investigations of the plankton were almost
entirely qualitative, that is, they consisted in identifying the
organisms caught, working out their minute structure and
tracing their life-history ; but more recently much attention
has been directed to the quantitative distribution of organ-
isms in the sea mainly as the result of the elaborate investiga-
tions of the Kiel school of Planktologists and the German
Plankton Expedition of the " National," through the Atlan-
tic, in 1889. Previously, the plankton had been caught by
various forms of tow-nets, from the simple open cheese-cloth
or silk tapering bag, as used by the " Challenger " and many
other expeditions, to the more compHcated " closing " nets
of Agassiz, Nansen and other Scandinavian investigators,
which were designed to sample special zones of water below
the surface (Fig. 16). But the Kiel school consisting of Hensen,
Brandt, Apstein, Lohmann, and their disciples, introduced
more precise methods, and designed nets of definite shape
and dimensions which were calculated to strain a known
PLATE XVII.
[Photo by Edwin Thompson.
Fig. 1. — Set of Plankton Nets, drying after use on the yacht.
Agassiz trawl hanging from the derrick forward.
[Photo-micrograph by A. ScoTT.
Fig. 2. — Mixed Plankton, containing Diatoms, Copepoda and Polychaet
larvae, etc. X 25.
PLANKTON
233
column of water and give a catch
which, when multiplied by a co-
efficient, would be the exact con-
tents of so many fathoms of, say,
a square metre in section — a
most desirable result, if possible
of attainment. Moreover, the
Kiel planktologists assumed a
uniform distribution of the or-
ganisms in sea areas under con-
stant conditions ; and by these
methods arrived at far-reaching
conclusions in regard to the
amount of food matters in the
sea, such as the numbers of
floating fish- eggs and of the fish-
populations — all based upon (1)
the supposed uniform distribu-
tion over wide areas and (2) the
vaHdity of a comparatively
small number of samples taken
at considerable distances apart.
Fig. 3, on Plate XVIII, shows
one form of the Hensen quanti-
tative net.
Before considering these and
other quantitative methods more
in detail, it may be convenient to
name and characterize briefly a
few of the leading groups of the
plankton and some represen-
tative genera which may re-
FiG. 16. — "Nansen" Closing Tow-Net in Action.
I. Open, as it descends and as it fishes coming up.
II. Closed, as it is when hauled in after fishing. B, brass bucket containing
the catch. C, canvas front to net. L, releasing apparatus. M, brass mes-
senger sent down line to effect closing. T,the throttling noose. W, weight.
234 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
quire to be mentioned further on in the discussion. Amongst
the microscopic plants of the plankton there are a few Algae
and an immense number of Diatoms.
Trichodesmium eryihrceum is one of the " blue-green "
algae, which, however, is of a yellowish-brown colour
and occurs as bundles or clusters of short hair-like
filaments in enormous abundance on the siirface of some of
the warmer seas, especially in the Indian Ocean and the Red
Sea (hence so named). It is most irregularly distributed,
and may occupy narrow tracts miles in length, or patches of
large area, and then be totally absent in equally large adjoin-
ing spaces. Our knowledge of this phenomenon dates back
to the times of Cook's voyages in southern seas when the
tracts of yellowish discoloured water were referred to (in the
journal of Sir Joseph Banks) by the sailors' name of " sea-
sawdust." This and other swarms were also noticed by
Charles Darwin in the South Atlantic during the voyage of
the " Beagle " in 1835.
Coccospheres and Rhahdospheres are minute unicellular
algae having calcareous plates and spines, found in very
great abundance throughout the open oceans, and especially
abundant, according to Sir John Murray, in the tropics —
though often overlooked on account of their minute
size.
Diatoms are found most abundantly near the coasts and in
colder waters such as the Southern Ocean and the North
Pacific. They vary greatly in size and shape (globes, drums;
spindles, ribbons, hairs, etc.), but are usually of a yellowish-
brown colour and are enclosed in siliceous shells (the frustules)
which may be elaborately and delicately carved and pro-
longed into spines and other projections. A few of the more
notable forms are : —
Chcetoceras ~a> genus containing many species, some of
which are amongst the most abundant Diatoms in the
Irish Sea in late spring and early summer, and sometimes
again in late autumn. As many as 150 millions have some-
PLATE XVIII.
Fig. L— The Tile Fish.
Fig. 2. — Lucas Sounding Machine as used with
" Nansen " vertical closing net on rail of the
yacht.
Fig. 3.— a " Hensen " Quanti-
tative Net.
PLANKTON 235
times been obtained in one haul of a small tow-net in May.
Chcetoceras (Plate XIX, Fig. 2) is characterized by the long
slender cm'ved spines which project in groups from the ends
of the cells.
Rhizosolenia — another large genus, some of the species
(Plate XIX, Fig. 1) of which are very abundant in our seas in
early summer and late autumn, reaching the maximum
usually in June, when up to 180 millions have been taken in
one haul of the tow-net.
Coscinodiscus appears as discoid and drum-shaped forms
in which the siliceous frustrules are marked with concentric
and other geometric curves so as to form elaborate patterns.
It is a winter and early spring form. (Seen as discs on Plate
XVII, Fig. 2.)
Biddulphia is also a common winter and spring form and
has square or oblong cells with spines at the corners and
bright yellow contents. In addition to the common European
species, B. mdbilienis (? B. regia), a more elongated form,
B, sinensis (Plate XVII, Fig. 2), has appeared of late years
and is now abundant. It is supposed to have come from far
eastern seas, and, according to Ostenfeld, to have been
found first in the North Sea near the Elbe in 1903, and to
have spread from there to the Irish Sea, the English Channel
and up the coasts of Denmark to Norway.
Dinoflagellata or Peridiniales are minute unicellular
organisms which are usually regarded as Protozoa, but have
been claimed by some as plants. They may be very abun-
dant on occasions and are of great importance as the food of
some of the larger organisms of the plankton and even of
small fishes. Two genera are very abundant in our seas :
Ceratium (Plate XIV, Fig. 2), which is said to be the chief
food of the sardine at times on the coasts of France and
Portugal, and Peridinium, which is sometimes so abundant
as to discolour the sea.
Noctiluca scintillans (Plate XIV, Fig. 1), a globular gelatin-
ous Protozoon, related to the Dinoflagellates, which gives rise
236 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
to a good deal of the phosphorescence of the sea. It may
occur in dense swarms, especially in inshore waters, and may
be abundant in one place and totally absent in other localities
not far distant. It has been found swarming in the sea
round Anglesey in August, while none were found round the
Isle of Man. A few years ago it occurred in enormous
abundance in the Barrow Channel in December, which is
unusually late for these coasts ; but in the Baltic it usually
appears in great swarms late in the year. Its home, where it
is commonly present throughout the year, is said to
be the English Channel and the southern part of the North
Sea (see also p. 214).
The Diatoms and the Dinoflagellata and their allies are
frequently grouped together as " Phytoplankton " in opposi-
tion to the animals (Zooplankton) which follow : —
The Copepoda, small shrimp-like Crustacea averaging
about an eighth of an inch in length, are the most important
group of the zoo-plankton and are found in all seas at various
depths and at almost all times of year. Some, such as the gen-
era Parapontella and Temora (Plate XXIII), are characteristic
of coastal waters (" neritic "), while others, such as Acartia
(Plate XIX, Fig. 4) and Anomalocera, are " oceanici" in origin.
Calanus finmarchicus (Plate XIX, Fig. 3) is one of the largest
of Copepoda found in the British seas, and probably the most
important from a practical fisheries' point of view, as it is an
element in the food of various migratory fishes such as the
mackerel and the herring. Its home appears to be in the
North Atlantic to the south of Iceland, but it occurs on
occasions in large swarms in various other parts of the
European seas, and appears to be a constant inhabitant of
deep water near the bottom of some of the Scottish sea-
lochs.
Sagitta (Plate XX, Fig. 2), the "arrow- worm," and Tomop-
teris are both transparent, pelagic worms frequently met
with in the plankton and usually more abundant in deeper
zones of water than at the surface.
PLATE XIX.
A
^i^,^ V
V>J^i,:5^i:4M;^
.•^
Fig. 1. — Phyto-plankton, consisting of
the Diatom Rhizosolenia semispina.
"
^^^t^
"<*v.
*#y^
/
"v.
^®
Fig. 2. — The Diatom Chcetoceras deci-
piens.
Fig. 3. — Zoo-plankton, consisting of
the Copepod Calanus finmarckicus.
All magnified.
Fig. 4. — The Copepod Acartia claiisi.
[Fhoto-micrographs by A. Scott.
PLANKTON 237
Fodon and Evadne are small Crustacea allied to Cope-
poda, which may occm: as dense local swarms in sum-
mer, and are an important element of the food of young
fishes.
Oikopleura is a minute, pelagic, highly- organized animal,
related to the sedentary Ascidians of the benthos, but
having a locomotory tail provided with a rudimentary
backbone (notochord) and remaining free-swimming
throughout life. It is abundant in our seas at all times of
year, and is commonly known as Appendicularia.
In addition to these and many other adult organisms,
there are in the plankton immense numbers of the eggs,
embryos, larvse and free-swimming stages of most of the
fixed and crawling animals, such as zoophytes, starfishes,
worms, crabs and molluscs, on the bottom. It is evident
then, even from this brief survey, that the plankton may con-
tain representatives of almost all kinds of marine organisms
and may be immensely varied both in amount and nature
at different localities and times of year.
We now return to the methods of capture, and the investi-
gation of the problems plankton presents to the oceanog-
rapher, in its distribution both horizontally and vertically
and in its seasonal and other variations.
Let us consider one or two published examples of the
problems in the economics of the sea which Hensen and his
fellow-workers undertake to solve by their quantitative
methods : —
From certain samples obtained in the west Baltic it was
calculated that every square mile contained 80 to 100 billion
Copepoda, and from the relative proportions of eggs, larvse
and adults it was deduced that for the sixteen square miles
of a certain fishery district the annual consumption of Cope-
poda must be 15,600 biUions, and that consequently that
locahty supports Copepod-food sufficient for 534 million
herrings of an average weight of 60 grammes.
Then, again, we are told that Brandt found about 200
238 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
Diatoms per drop of water in Kiel Bay, and that Hensen
estimated that there are several hundred millions of Diatoms
under each square metre of the North Sea or the Baltic ;
and it has been calculated that there is approximately one
Copepod in each cubic inch of Baltic water.
The floating eggs and embryos of the more important
food-fishes occur in quantities in the plankton during
certain months in spring, and Hensen and Apstein have made
some notable calculations based on the occurrence of these
in a series of 158 samples which led them to the conclusion
that, taking six of our most abundant fish, such as the cod
and some of the flat fish, the eggs present were probably
produced by about 1,200 million spawners, leading them to
the conclusion that the total fish population of the North
Sea (of these six species), at that time (spring of 1895)
amounted to about 10,000 millions. Further calculations
led them to the result that the fishermen's catch of these
fishes amounted to about one-quarter of the total popu-
lation.
Now all this is not only of scientific interest, but also of
great practical importance if we could be sure that the small
series of samples upon which these colossal calculations are
based were adequate and representative, but it will be noted
that these samples represent only one square metre in
3,465,968,354. Hensen's statement, repeated in various
works in slightly differing words, is to the effect that using a
net of which the constants are known, hauled vertically
through a column of water from a certain depth to the
surface, he can calculate the volume of water filtered by the
net and so estimate the quantity of plankton under each
square metre of the surface ; and his whole results depend
upon the assumption, which he considers justified, that the
plankton is evenly distributed over large areas of water
which are under similar conditions. In these calculations in
regard to the fish eggs he takes the whole of the North Sea
as being an area under similar conditions, but we have known
PLATE XX.
fm"
^fii^^f^
[Photo-micrograph by A. Scott.
Fig. 1. — Zoea stage of the Crab, inagnified.
[Photo by A. ScOTT.
Fig. 2. — Sagitta bipunctata, the Arrow-worm; about twice natural size.
PLANKTON 239
since the days of P. T. Cleve and from the observations of
Hensen's own colleagues that this is not the case, and they
have published chart-diagrams showing that at least three
different kinds of water under different conditions are found
in the North Sea and that at least five different planktonic
areas may be encountered in making a traverse from Germany
to the British Isles.
There is also direct evidence of irregularity in the dis-
tribution of such fish eggs. Hjort and Petersen, in 1905,
showed that cod eggs are found in great quantities over the
isolated banks of the coast of Norway, while none or very
few are found over the channels between the banks. Schmidt
also found eggs and fry of cod on the Rockall Bank, but not
outside it. If the argument be used that wherever the
plankton is found to vary, there the conditions cannot be
uniform, then few areas of the ocean of any considerable size
remain as cases suitable for population-computation from
random samples.
The Kiel School of Planktologists cannot have it both ways.
They claim that the adequacy of their samples holds good
for an area of sea all of which is under similar conditions.
They tell us at one time that the North Sea contains water of
different kinds from different sources and with several types
of plankton. If, then, it is not homogeneous — as of course,
from aU the evidence, it is not — then they cannot average
the samples and multiply up for the whole area as Hensen
and Apstein have done.
We have published many examples from the Irish Sea of
marked irregularity in the plankton. If the plankton were
uniformly distributed, then two ordinary open horizontal
nets towed together at the same time ought to show similar
catches, and they sometimes do ; but very often they do
not. Even when the volume of the catch is much the
same in a pair of nets, the totals may be made up very
differently, as in the case of nets A and B shown in the
table on next page.
240
FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
April 13, 1907— Surface.
Net A - 16 c.c.
Net B - 16*5 CO.
Balanus nauplii
3,000
None
Copepoda nauplii
7,000
2,000
Copepoda
13,000
None
Coscinodiscus
8,000
14,000
Biddulphia .
40,000
70,000
Rhizosolenia .
1,000
3,000
Thalassiosira .
2,000
7,000
ChaBtoceras .
None
1,000
Oikopleura
2,000
150
The following, showing a sudden change in the nature of
the plankton, is quoted from one of the Port Erin Plankton
Reports : —
" We were fortunate enough on one occasion to obtain
incontrovertible evidence of the sharply defined nature of a
shoal of organisms, forming an instructive example of how
nets hauled under similar circumstances a short distance
apart, may give very different results. On the evening of
April 1 (1907), at the ' alongshore ' Station III, north of
Port Erin, one mile out, I took six simultaneous gatherings
in both surface and deeper waters. Two of the nets were
the exactly similar surface tow-nets called A and B. At
half-time I hauled in A, emptied the contents into a jar, and
promptly put the net out again. This haK-gathering was of
very ordinary character, containing a few Copepoda, some
Diatoms and some larvae, but no Crab Zoeas. At the end of the
fifteen minutes, when all the nets were hauled onboard, all the
gatherings, including A, showed an extraordinary number of
Crab Zoeas (Plate XX, Fig. 1), rendering the ends of the nets
quite dark in colour. A was practically the same as B, although
A had only been fishing for seven minutes. It was evident
that at about half-time the nets had encountered a remark-
able swarm of organisms which had multiplied several times
the bulk of the catch and had introduced a new animal in
PLANKTON 241
enormous numbers. Had it not been for the chance observa-
tion of the contents of A at half-time, it would naturally have
been supposed that, as all the nets agreed in their evidence,
the catches were fair samples of what the water contained
over at least the area traversed — whereas we now know that
the Zoeas were confined to at most the latter half of the
traverse and may have been even more restricted. Under
these circumstances, an observation made solely in the water
traversed during the first seven minutes would have given
a very different result from that actually obtained ; or, to
put it another way, had two expeditions taken samples that
evening at what might well be considered as the same station,
but a few hundred yards apart, they might have arrived at
very different conclusions as to the constitution of the
plankton in that part of the ocean."
As an example of marked differences in the micro -plankton
in small areas, the Norwegian Professor H. H. Gran {Puh.
de Circon., No. 62, 1912), finds at two neighbouring stations
in the Skagerak two distinctly separated layers of water
each with its own characteristic flora. One layer is from
the surface to about 20 metres, and the second from about
40 metres to 100. There is a boundary layer between the
two at about 30 metres. He points out, moreover, that the
plankton has a very different character at these two adjacent
stations — the Diatoms at the one being what we should
expect to find in the southern part of the North Sea, while
at the other the Diatom plankton may have come from
the north part of the North Sea between Scotland and
Norway. His conclusions are :
" It will be apparent already from the few investigations,
which have been mentioned here as examples, that an
exact quantitative investigation of the plankton at different
depths will be able to give interesting information, not only
regarding the biological conditions of the species, but also
regarding their dependence on the currents. Such an
investigation, where the quantity of plankton at certain
R
242 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
depths with certain biological conditions is determined, is
in any case of much more value for many questions than
vertical hauls or investigation of water-samples, which are
taken to be representative of a whole column of water from
the surface to a definite depth. The result of these latter
methods, which have been used especially by the Kiel
naturalists, is, that the interesting details found on com-
paring the plankton flora at different depths disappear in
an average, which often has a very doubtful value. In
any case, it is better, as Lohmann has done, to calculate
the average for the plankton of the whole column of water,
after reliable and exact observations have been made at
definite depths." So far Gran, who may be regarded as
a very refiable authority.
Now these are cases of catches taken in shallow water
or in coastal areas, and it may be said — it has been said —
that results may be very different out on the high seas far
from land where the conditions are more constant and the
plankton ought to be more regularly distributed ; but when
we look at the evidence that is available we find that there
is much that tells the other way. Many naturalists on
long voyages have told of the swarms of some planktonic
organism met with in quite limited areas — organisms such
as Trichodesmium, Medusce, Salpa, Physalia and Clione.
Most of these are members of the macro -plankton, it is true,
but macro-plankton is of the greatest importance as the
food of fishes and whales. Then, to record a personal
experience, I have examined the plankton daily on twelve
ocean traverses, through the North and South Atlantic,
the Indian Ocean, and the great expanse of the Southern
Ocean (going to North America, to South Africa, to Ceylon,
and to AustraHa), caught by means of fine silk nets on taps
with sea-water running day and night, and the variations
from day to day have usually been very marked, and not
in the macro-plankton only, but also in the case of the
Diatoms and Peridinians belonging to the micro- or nanno-
PLANKTON 243
plankton. On one occasion in mid-ocean I encountered a
good example of a swarm of a very minute organism so
abundant as to colour the water. In the Southern Ocean,
between the Cape of Good Hope and Australia, the sea was
noticed one afternoon to be blood-red in the curl of the
waves where the sunlight shone through. I pointed it out
to several members of the British Association party on
board, and all agreed that it was most striking. My tap-net
a little later showed that the colour was due to a minute
red Peridinian, which must have been present in enormous
profusion over a limited area in the open sea where there
was no recognized current carrying special conditions— and
cases are on record of swarms of this or an allied form not
only colouring the sea locally, but also causing such a
pollution of the water as to result in widespread death of
larger marine animals so as to cause a nuisance when cast
up on the Australian coasts. In the recent literature of
the subject there are many other similar cases of marked
irregularity of even the more minute plankton in the open
ocean, such as Ove Paulsen's observation that the sea
to the east of Iceland in July was blood-red for days from
the presence of Mesodinium pulex, and also his record of
very unequal distribution in the open Atlantic Ocean near
the Faroe Bank — the quantity of plankton being very
much greater in one haul than in the previous one. But
to my mind the chart-diagrams of the quantitative plank-
tologists themselves tell in the same direction ; for example,
the one giving the results of the Plankton Expedition in
the Atlantic shows a very marked irregularity, not only as
between arctic, temperate, and tropical waters, but also
almost day by day in most parts of the ocean traversed.
In all these cases, no doubt it may be said the plankton
results were different because the conditions were not
similar ; but it is surely not justifiable to say that in the
open sea the plankton must be evenly distributed because
the conditions are constant over large areas, and then,
244 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
whenever a case of irregularity in distribution is observed,
to say that only proves that the conditions cannot have
been constant at that locality. If all these areas are ruled
out, then it becomes a question whether what remains of
the ocean is of any use to us as a basis for calculations as
to the planktonic contents of the sea either for practical
fishery purposes or for purely theoretical speculations.
Moreover, it must be remembered that the coastal waters,
which it is agreed are not homogeneous in character, and
where the plankton is very irregularly distributed, are just
the areas of most practical importance in connection with
the fishing industries. All the great fisheries of the world
are carried on in coastal waters, so far as is known to us of
mixed character and containing a very irregularly distributed
plankton.
P. T. Cleve has shown that in January, 1897, the North
Sea, our most celebrated North European fishery area,
contained at least five different types of plankton (named
from their characteristic organisms) — " Tripos " plankton, in
the centre ; *' Halosphsera " plankton forming a belt around
that and stretching from Denmark to Scotland ; " Con-
cinnus " plankton, nearer each shore and extending down
the coasts of Holland and Belgium towards the English
Channel ; while " Tricho " plankton and " Sira " plankton
border the south of Norway and fill up the Skagerak.
And a similar mixture of different types and quantities of
plankton will probably be found to obtain in other large
fishery areas — not to say oceans— when they come to be
adequately investigated.
As another example of evidence of irregularity in distri-
bution of the plankton, take the results obtained by Dr.
Herbert Fowler in his expedition in the North Atlantic
in the summer of 1900 — a cruise which has thrown much
light upon the relations of oceanic plankton. Dr. Fowler's
results are valuable in demonstrating the varied composition
of the plankton from day to day in the open sea. His sixteen
PLANKTON 245
stations were so close together that the whole area investigated
measured only sixty-six miles by twenty-two, and his results
for the Chsetognatha (Sagitta, Plate XX, Fig. 2) show that
even at adjacent stations on successive days the numbers
obtained were very different, one catch being many times
another, and the greatest about thirty times as much as the
least. Now, if a vessel taking observations, say, twenty
miles apart, were to have traversed this area and obtained
only one of these gatherings, she might have gone off with
a so-called sample which was ten or twenty times too great
or too small to represent fairly the average, in either case
giving an indication that was false and might lead to entirely
erroneous conclusions. Similarly in the case of Doliolum,
Dr. Fowler found an enormous disproportion between the
amounts of the catch on the different days, even at closely
adjacent localities. It is obvious that if the number of
Doliolum present in the area were calculated from one of
his samples, the result would be entirely different from that
based upon other samples. Cases of this kind could be
multiplied, and have no doubt occurred in the experience
of most naturalists who have done much work at sea.
The stock area of the open ocean, often quoted as being
under constant conditions, is the Sargasso Sea, far from
the disturbing influence of the coasts and isolated by a vast
surrounding current. There the conditions must be as
uniform as in any large oceanic area, and we would certainly
expect that there, if anywhere, the plankton would be
uniform. But in the twenty -four hauls made in the Sargasso
Sea during the Plankton Expedition the catches varied in
volume from 1*5 to 6-5 cubic centimetres. Where the
difference in range is so great as this, is one justified in taking
an average and using it to multiply up for the purpose of
estimating the population of the vast area ?
Moreover, it is not justifiable to add together the estimated
amounts of the various possible sources of error and deduct
these from the apparent irregularity, as some of these
246 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
sources of error, such as the movements of the ship, may,
for all we know, have added to the bulk of the smallest catch or
have diminished that of the largest, and so may have actually
lessened the evidence in regard to the natural irregularity
of the plankton, and the same is true of any possible error
there may be in the reading of the catch. The total mean
divergence of the average catch has been estimated at
32 per cent., and Schiitt attributes 20 per cent, of this to
the possible errors of the experiment all combined, and he
then deducts this from the 32 per cent, so as to reduce the
amount of divergence ; but some of the errors may have to
be added, not deducted, or they may neutralize one another.
They are quite unknown and it must not be assumed that
they tell in all cases, or at all times, in favour of uniformity.
The Sargasso Sea, and no doubt some other oceanic areas
of limited extent, are probably more constant in their
physical conditions and more uniform in plankton contents
than inshore seas and than many other parts of the ocean ;
but it may be doubted whether they are sufficiently uniform
to yield results by Hensen-net methods that would enable
us to make a census or a quantitative estimate of the
whole area.
Great stress has been laid by some writers upon the
efficacy of vertical hauls as giving reliable and therefore
comparable samples of the contents of a column of water of
known dimensions. I shall therefore discuss in some detail
the results obtained from a recent series of such hauls taken
in the Irish Sea.
A few experiments have been made in the past, by Hensen
and others, in hauling comparable nets simultaneously or
the same net several times in rapid succession in order to
estimate the amount of variation in the results or the
divergence of each sample from an average. With the view
of getting further evidence from a new series of data, taken
with all possible care under favourable conditions, I carried
out a number of similar experiments at Port Erin during
PLANKTON 247
several months in the spring, summer and autumn of 1920.
They consisted of seven series of four to six successive
(that is, as nearly as possible simultaneous) vertical hauls
taken with the " Nansen " net of No. 20 silk.^ The
*'Nansen " net is shown in Fig. 16, on p. 233, and, attached
to the Lucas sounding machine, at Plate XVIII, Fig. 2.
An apparent uniformity in the successive catches of each
series was obvious at the time of collecting. It seemed to
the eye to be the same catch that was emptied from the
Nansen-bucket into the bottle of formaline time after time
throughout a series. And this apparent uniformity of
volume was in most cases confirmed by the subsequent
measurements in the laboratory — for example, the six
successive hauls from 8 fathoms on April 3 all measure 0*2
c.c, four out of five of those from 20 fathoms on April 6 are
0*6 CO., and all four on August 7 from 20 fathoms measure
0'5 c.c. The remaining four series show some variation,
but the percentage deviation from the average of each
series is in no case great (see table, p. 248).
If, however, we make a microscopic investigation of the
catches, we find that even in the same series, similar volumes
of the plankton may be made up rather differently, and
may in some cases show surprising differences in the numbers
of a species in successive hauls, such as 10 and 100, 40
and 800, 4,000 and 18,000. Notwithstanding, then, some
appearance of similarity between the hauls of a series,
there is a considerable percentage deviation in the case of
some hauls from the average of their series^not infrequently
about plus or minus 50 per cent., and in several cases about
70, and in one case plus 129. The following table gives
the percentage deviations in the case of the volumes of the
catches, and also of the counted or estimated numbers of
1 For full details as to the conditions of the experiment, and the
methods of obtaining the results here given, see " Variation in
Successive Vertical Plankton Hauls at Port Erin," Trans, Biol. Soc,
L'pool, vol. XXXV, p. 161, 1921.
248
FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
the four chief groups of organisms present, viz. Diatoms,
Dinoflagellates, Copepoda and the Nauplii of Copepoda.
Date
and.
Depth.
April 3—
8 fathoms
April 6 —
20 fathoms
April 8 —
20 fathoms
No.
of
hauls.
Vol.
in c.c,
aver-
0-2
058
April 13 —
8 fathoms
May 25—
20 fathoms
August 7 —
20 fathoms
September 16-
20 fathoms
Greatest
per cent,
devia-
tion
from
average.
0-52
0-48
16125
05
61
(- 23
+ 15
Dia-
toms
ditto.
- 51
+ 41
Dino-
flagel-
lates
ditto.
- 42
+ 24
- 24
+ 17
- 41
+ 73
- 21
+ 15
- 36
+ 30
- 53
+ 56
Cope-
poda
ditto.
- 14
+ 21
- 20
+ 15
- 65
+ 44
- 22
+ 23
- 27
+ 17
- 22
+ 36
- 50
+ 42
Cope-
pod
Nau-
plii
ditto.
- 19
+ 39
- 40
+ 22
- 22
+ 33
- 72
+ 60
- 13
+ 32
- 36
+ 53
- 44
+ 41
- 39
+ 22
- 67
+ 129
- 33
+ 66
- 21
+ 10
- 31
+ 37
In all there are about fifty species of organisms that
occur with fair regularity throughout the series : twenty-
four species of Diatoms, four of Dinoflagellates, eight of
Copepoda and about fourteen other organisms or groups
of organisms which are not of so much importance and may
be omitted. Of the twenty-four species of Diatoms, as a
general rule, if a species occurs in one of the hauls of a series
it occurs in all, and in many cases in much the same propor-
tions in all ; that is, there may be two or three or even
PLANKTON 249
more times as many individual cells in one haul as in another,
but all will be in the tens, or in the hundreds, or the
thousands, or millions. For example, on April 3 we have : —
Coscinodiscus radiatus, 1,600, 2,600, 2,600, 2,800, 2,800,
2,200.
Streptotheca thamensiSy 40, 30, 30, 40, 40, 60.
Many other similar examples might be given from the
detailed records, but on the other hand other occasions
show more variation.
It is much the same with the four common species of
Dinoflagellates recorded. There again we find cases of
considerable constancy in the hauls of a series, such as : —
May 25. Peridinium divergens, 46,000, 62,000, 50,000,
44,000 ;
and other cases of more variation, even in that same series,
such as : —
May 25. Ceratium furca, 6,000, 2,000, 8,000, 1,000.
Are we entitled from this to conclude that the Peridinium
is evenly distributed through the zone of water sampled
and the Ceratium much less so ? I doubt it.
The Copepoda seem also to indicate in many cases a
fairly even distribution. Sometimes they occur only in
units, and yet each haul of the series shows a few : —
April 3. Oithona similis, 8, 4, 3, 3, 5, 11.
April 13. Temora longicornis, 10, 5, 10, 10, 10.
April 13. Oithona similis, 20, 20, 20, 20, 20.
Other cases; again, seem to indicate considerable variation
in adjacent hauls. Which of these contradictory impressions
received from an inspection of the results of the hauls is
true to nature ? If the Oithonas on April 13 had been
very irregularly scattered through the water; is it likely
that we could catch exactly 20 in each of five successive
hauls ? On the other hand, if they are evenly distributed,
how can we account for one haul (April 6) catching 40
and the next 140, or for the series on May 25 : — 20, 80, 460,
290, in the four successive hauls ?
250 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
Some of the other common organisms of the plankton
outside the above main groups also give conflicting evidence.
The pelagic arrow- worm, Sagitta hipunctata, is present in
nearly every haul in numbers varying from one to twenty-
seven, but in some series one or two individuals are present
in every haul, while in another series the successive hauls
varied from one to eleven. The impression one receives
from an inspection of the lists and numbers as they stand
is that if on each occasion one haul only in place of four or
six had been taken, and one had used the results of that haul
to estimate the abundance of any one organism or group
of organisms in that sea-area, one might have arrived at
conclusions about 50 per cent, wrong in either direction.
Is such a result of any real value as a basis for calculations
as to the population of the sea ? And is it possible that
such numerical variations are compatible with the hjnpothesis
of an even distribution of the plankton throughout a sea-
area of constant character ? The answer to such questions
depends to some extent upon the possible range of error
under the conditions of the experiment, and upon the
possibility of allowing for that experimental error, and of
reducing it by more refined methods of collecting and
estimating. I feel confident that the possibility of error in
the collecting was reduced to a minimum. There is also
the possibility of error in the microscopic examination and
estimation of the contents of the catch. This can only
apply in the case of the more minute organisms, present in
great abundance, such as the Diatoms which have to be
estimated from counted samples. In the case of Copepoda
and Sagitta and other larger organisms, this source of possible
error is excluded, as these are picked out from the entire
preserved catch with the eye or a hand lens, and counted
directly. Sampling and estimation are not applied to the
macro -plankton, and yet the variation is as great there
as in the case of the estimated micro -plankton.
The experimental error to be expected in the case of the
PLANKTON 251
three chief groups of organisms, and also in the case of a typical
species of each, has been calculated, by means of a formula
for obtaining the probable error, with the following results.
The total number of Diatoms on April 3 varied in the
six hauls from 3,880 to 10,020, the mean being 8,055.
Two of the hauls are below the mean and four above. The
smallest haul is 52 per cent, below the mean, and the largest
haul is 24 per cent, above. The question is : Do these
variations in the catch come within the limits of the probable
error of the experiment ? If we assume that the estimation
of the number of Diatoms in each haul is correct, then the
possible errors are those inseparable from all such collecting
at sea — slight movements of the boat, unknown currents
in the water, irregularities in the verticality of the line,
etc. In this case of the Diatoms on April 3, the '' probable
error " is found to be = 1,458, and the " range " is the mean
± the probable error, that is from 6,600 to 9,500. Compar-
ing this range with the estimated results of the hauls, we
find that three of the series are within the range and three
are outside it, and two of the latter (3,880 and 10,020) are
very considerably beyond the limits of the probable error
of the experiment.
The Diatoms of the other hauls give much the same result
when treated in the same manner — that is, roughly 50 per cent,
or rather more of the observed variation in the catches is not
covered by the calculated range of error of the experiment.
A series of detailed tables are given in the full report
from which the above is summarized, in which each of the
principal groups of the plankton, and also three prominent
organisms, the Diatom Coscinodiscus radiatus, the Dino-
flagellate Ceratium tripos and the Copepod Pseudocalanus
elongatus, are shown for all seven series of hauls treated as
in the case of the Diatoms of April 3 discussed above, and
giving in each case the figures necessary to make a com-
parison between the range of variation in the catches and the
calculated range of error. These tables show that in each
252 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
case a large proportion — from 60 per cent, to 22 out of
34— of the observed variations are outside the range of
error of the experiment.
To the question, What light does a series of, say, six
successive hauls throw upon the validity of a single haul,
say, the first of the series ? the answer seems to be that as
regards mere size (volume) and general nature (such as
phyto-plankton, zoo-plankton, or mixed) of the catch the
series confirms the representative character of the single
haul in a general way and within limits.
But if one next proceeds to deal quantitatively with the
groups and the individual species, it is found that the hauls
in a series may differ widely: up to fully 50 per cent, of
the variations from the mean of the series extend beyond
the range of error and are therefore not due to possible
imperfections in the experiment. Thus more than half the
differences between the hauls of a series remains unaccounted
for, and may naturally be interpreted as evidence of an
unequal distribution of the plankton in closely adjacent areas
of water or in the same area in successive periods of time.
Whether the present methods of collecting and of estimat-
ing are sufficiently accurate to enable us to determine the
amount of this inequality in the distribution, so as to be
able to assign probable upper and lower limits to the number
of each organism per unit volume of water, may be doubtful,
but we may hope that improvements in method and
accumulation of evidence may in time enable us to make
some approximation to an estimate of the population of
various sea-areas. Other more refined methods of collecting
samples of the micro-plankton have been recently devised
such as the filtering and centrifuging (or other exhaustive
examination) of small measured quantities of water, or the
cultivation of every organism in a very small volume of
water. These methods have added much to our knowledge
of the minuter and more elusive forms — the " nanno-
plankton," but the drawback to all of them is that they
PLANKTON 263
deal with relatively small volumes (one, three or five litres)
of the water, and it must remain doubtful whether the
same organisms in the same quantity would have been
present in the next bucketful of water that might have
been taken from the sea.
Even if we had no hope of attaining to greater accuracy
our present planktonic results are of some value. Although
estimates which may be 50 per cent, wrong in either direction
do not justify us in calculating exactly the number of
organisms or of potential food present per area of sea or
volume of water, they do give us a useful approximation.
Even if 100 per cent, out, doubling or halving the estimated
number is a relatively small variation compared with the
much larger increases and reductions, amounting to, it may
be, ten thousand times in the case of Diatoms, ten to fifty
times in the Dinoflagellates and five to twenty times in
Copepoda, which we find between adjacent months — and
even greater differences if we take groups of months—in a
survey of the seasonal variations of the plankton.
Successive improvements and additions to Hensen's
methods in collecting plankton have been made by Lohmann,
Apstein, Gran, and others, such as pumping up water of
different layers through a hose-pipe and filtering it through
felt, filter-paper, and other materials which retain much of
the micro -plankton that escapes through the meshes of the
finest silk. Use has even been made of the extraordinarily
minute and beautifully regular natural filter spun by the
pelagic animal Appendicular ia for the capture of its own
food. This grid-like trap, when dissected out and examined
under the microscope, reveals ^ surprising assemblage of
the smallest Protozoa and Protophyta, less than thirty
micro -miUimetres in diameter, which would all pass easily
through the meshes of our finest silk nets. That the
regularity of the meshes in the silk rapidly deteriorates with
use is seen from a comparison of Plate XXI, Figs. 1 and 2.
The latest refinement in capturing the minutest -known
254 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
organisms of the plankton (excepting the Bacteria) is a
culture method devised by Dr. E. J. Allen of Plymouth.
By diluting half a cubic centimetre of the sea-water with a
considerable amount (1,500 c.c.) of sterilized water treated
with a nutrient solution, and distributing that over a large
number (70) of small flasks in which after an interval of
some days the developed organisms can be counted, he
calculates that the sea contains 464,000 of such organisms
per litre, whereas the centrifuge showed only 14,450 per
litre ; and he gives reasons why his cultivations must be
regarded as minimum results, and states that the total
per litre may well be something like a million. Thus every
new method devised seems to multiply many times the
probable total population of the sea and reminds one of the
poet Spenser's lament in " The Faerie Queen " :^
**0 what an eudlesse worke have I in hand,
To count the sea's abundant progeny,
Whose fruitful seede farre passeth those in land,
« ♦ ♦ ♦ *
Then to recount the sea's posterity
So fertile be the fiouds in generation,
So huge their numbers and so numberlesse their nation."
The conclusion in regard to this branch of plankton
investigation must be that there is probably no one method
which can give us a complete quantitative estimate of the
total number of organisms in a sample of sea-water ; but
by the combination of a number of methods — coarse and
fine nets for the larger organisms, centrifuging and cultiva-
tion flasks for smaller — we may hope in time to approximate
to a solution of the problem, how to obtain a planktonic
census of the sea. And even then it will only be the sea at
that time and place.
Therefore, in my judgment, the validity of the conclusions
arrived at by the quantitative methods depend too much
upon exactly where and when the samples are taken. At
another neighbouring locality, or at a different time, the
results might be very different. There are, obviously,
PLATE XXI.
t ^ tfrf ff f ^♦^ • • • *
m-m^mm'^imm -# r ^ # « w # •
'• t- # rf^## f % • • • f •
'• ##f ^i^it^^a ill •-#
^•li-# # i «r # l^;% s-^ i J^^»^-«
Fig. 1. — Plankton-net Silk, Mesh of
No. 20, when new. x 23.
Fig. 3. — Zoo-plankton, consisting of
Oithona Helgolandica ; magnified.
Fig. 2. — The same silk after use in
the " Xansen '' net, for a few
weeks. X 23.
■31
m^
^^v
*
# ^* i
1»
■- *^> .-'/.
Fig. 4. — Mixed Plankton, consist-
ing of Diatoms, Nauplii, Poly-
chaet larvae, etc. ; magnified.
PLANKTON 255
three possible sources of error in the quantitative methods : —
1. The imperfections of the net as a filtering apparatus.
These of course apply to all nets and are generally admitted,
and improvements and substitutes, such as pump and filter
and centrifuge, have been proposed and used. Kofoid finds
that the coefficient of the net may vary from 1-5 to 5-7,
according to its condition, and that it may retain anything
from J to 4Vth of the solid contents of the water filtered.
2. The vertical haul may defeat its object by mixing
zones of plankton which ought to be sampled separately.
Closing quantitative nets have been devised to meet this
difficulty, but Paulsen has shown recently that these vertical
nets may fish while being lowered down, as well as when
coming up, and therefore are not reliable.
3. The irregularity in distribution of the plankton.
No device can get over this difficulty. The only remedy is
more frequent sampHng and more accurate and detailed
determination of the characters, both physical and biological,
of the various areas, currents and zones of water making
up our seas — and all that is being done, and must be done
in still greater detail, by oceanographers all over the world.
We need not, however, fail to appreciate the labours of
the plankton school at Kiel, or be at all hopeless as to science
attaining to a more exact knowledge of the populations
of the oceans. The leading idea of quantitative estimation
is a good one, the implements devised are very ingenious,
and the long-continued laborious computations of some of
the German professors have been most praiseworthy. But
the method is still open to serious objections, the most
fundamental of which is the obvious irregularity in the
distribution of the plankton — horizontally, vertically and
chronologically— an irregularity which must vitiate any
calculations based upon comparatively few and distant
samples. Marine biologists will probably do better to
concentrate their efforts upon the intensive study of small
areas before trying to estimate the contents of an ocean.
CHAPTER XIV
PLANKTON (continued) : ITS VARIATIONS AND ITS
PROBLEMS
There are many other problems of the plankton in addition
to those of the quantitative estimates — possibly even some
that we have not yet recognized — and various interesting
conclusions may be drawn from some recent planktonic
observations. Here is a case of the introduction and rapid
spread of a form new to British seas.
Biddulphia sinensis (see Fig. 1 on Plate XXII) is an exotic
Diatom which, according to Ostenfeld, made its appearance
at the mouth of the Elbe in 1903, and spread during succes-
sive years in several directions. It appeared suddenly in
our plankton gatherings at Port Erin in November, 1909,
and has been present in abundance each year since.
Ostenfeld, in 1908, when tracing its spread in the North Sea,
found that the migration to the north along the coast of
Denmark to Norway corresponded with the rate of flow of
the Jutland current to the Skagerak — viz. about 17 cm.
per second— a case of plankton distribution throwing light
on hydrography — and he predicted that it would soon be
found in the English Channel. Dr. Marie Lebour, who
recently examined the store of plankton gatherings at the
Plymouth Laboratory, finds that as a matter of fact this
form did appear in abundance in the collections of October,
1909, within a month of the time when according to our
records it reached Port Erin. Whether or not this is an
Indo-Pacific species brought accidentally by a ship from the
Far East, or whether it is possibly a new mutation which
256
PLATE XXII.
[Photo-microfjraphs by A. Scott.
Fig. 1. — Plankton showing (a) Biddulphia mohiliensis and (6) B. sinensis.
X 25.
Fig. 2. — Xauplius stage of Balanus.
X 30.
Fig. 3. — Cvpris stage of Balanus.
X 30.
PLANKTON 257
appeared suddenly in our seas, there is no doubt that it was
not present in the Irish Sea plankton gatherings previous
to 1909, but has been abundant since that year, and has
completely adopted the habits of its English relations —
appearing with B. mobiliensis in late autumn, persisting
during the winter, reaching a maximum in spring, and dying
out before summer.
The NaupUus and Cypris stages of Balanus in the plankton
form an Interesting study. The adult barnacles are present
in enormous abundance on the rocks round the coast, and
they reproduce in winter, at the beginning of the year. The
newly emitted young (Nauplii) are sometimes so abundant
as to make the water in the shore pools and in the sea close
to shore appear muddy. The Nauplii (Fig. 2 on Plate XXII)
first appeared at Port Erin, in 1907, in the bay gatherings on
February 22 (in 1908 on February 13), and increased with
ups and downs to their maximimi on April 15, and then
decreased until their disappearance on April 26. None were
taken at any other time of the year. The Cypris stage (Fig. 3
on Plate XXII) follows on after the Nauphus. It was first taken
in the bay on April 6, rose to its maximum on the same day
with the Nauplii, and was last caught on May 24. Through-
out, the Cypris curve keeps below that of the Nauphus, the
maxima being 1,740 and 10,500 respectively. Probably the
difference between the two curves represents roughly the
death-rate of Balanus during the Nauphus stage. That
conclusion I think we are justified in drawing, but I would
not venture to use the result of any haul, or the average of
a number of hauls, to multiply by the number of square
yards in a zone round the coast in order to obtain an
estimate of the number of young barnacles, or, after a further
calculation, of the old barnacles that produced them —
the irregularities are too great.
To my mind it seems clear that there must be three factors
making for irregularity in the distribution in space and time
of a plankton organism : —
s
268 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
1. The sequence of stages in its life-history — such as the
Nauplius and Cypris stages of Balanus.
2. The results of interaction with other organisms — as
when a swarm of Calanus is pursued and devoured by a
shoal of herring.
3. AbnormaHties in time or abundance due to the physical
environment — as in favourable or unfavourable seasons.
And these factors must be at work in the open ocean as well
as in coastal waters.
Then, turning to other problems, let us take next the fact
— if it be a fact — that the genial warm waters of the tropics
support a less abundant plankton than the cold polar seas.
The statement has been made and supported by some
investigators and disputed by others, both on a certain
amount of evidence. This is possibly a case like some other
scientific controversies where both sides are partly in the
right, or right under certain conditions. At any rate there
are marked exceptions to the generalization. The German
Plankton Expedition in 1889 showed in its results that much
larger hauls of plankton per unit volume of water were
obtained in the temperate North and South Atlantic than
in the tropics between, and that the warm Sargasso Sea had
a remarkably scanty microflora. Other investigators have
since reported more or less similar results. Lohmann found
the Mediterranean plankton to be less abundant than that
of the Baltic, gatherings brought back from tropical seas
are frequently very scanty, and enormous hauls on the other
hand have been recorded from Arctic and Antarctic seas.
There is no doubt about the large gatherings obtained in
northern waters. I have myself in a few minutes' haul of
a small horizontal net in the north of Norway collected a
mass of the large Copepod Calanus finmarchicus sufficient to
be cooked and eaten Hke potted shrimps by half a dozen of
the yacht's company, and I have obtained similar large
hauls in the cold Labrador current near Newfoundland.
On the other hand, Kofoid and Alexander Agassiz have
PLANKTON 259
recorded large hauls of plankton in the Humboldt current
off the west coast of America, and during the " Challenger "
expedition some of the largest quantities of plankton were
found in the equatorial Pacific, and Diatoms were found to
be as abundant in the Arafura Sea (lat. 10° S.) as in the
Antarctic. Murray and Hjort found in their Atlantic
expedition that Coccolithophoridae, separated from the sea-
water by the centrifuge, were very abundant in tropical
seas, and they found large quantities of Crustacea at deeper
zones in the tropics. Moreover, it is common knowledge
that on occasions vast swarms of some planktonic organism
may be seen in tropical waters. The yellow alga Trichodes-
mium may cover the surface over considerable areas of the
Indian and South Atlantic oceans ; and some pelagic
animals such as Salpae, Medusae and Ctenophores are also
commonly present in abundance in the tropics. Then,
again, American biologists have pointed out that the warm
waters of the West Indies and Florida may be noted for the
richness of their floating life for periods of years, while at
other times the pelagic organisms become rare and the
region is almost a desert sea.
It is probable, on the whole, that the distribution and
variations of oceanic currents have more than latitude or
temperature alone to do with any observed scantiness of
tropical plankton. These mighty rivers of the ocean in
places teem with animal and plant life, and may sweep
abundance of food from one region to another in the open
sea.
But even if it be a fact that there is this alleged deficiency
in tropical plankton, there is by no means agreement as to
the cause thereof. Brandt first attributed the poverty of the
plankton in the tropics to the destruction of nitrates in the
sea as a result of the greater intensity of the metabolism
of denitrifying bacteria in the warmer water ; and various
other writers since then have more or less agreed that the
presence of these denitrifying bacteria, by keeping down to
260 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
a minimum the nitrogen concentration in tropical waters,
may account for the relative scarcity of the phyto-plankton,
and consequently of the zoo-plankton, that has been
observed. It has been said that the colder seas, with more
plankton, contain more nitrogen (three parts in a million
parts of water) than the warmer waters, with less plankton,
which have only one part per million. But Gran, Nathan-
sohn, Murray, Hjort and others have shown that such
denitrifying bacteria are rare or absent in the open sea, that
their action must be neghgible, and that Brandt's hypothesis
is untenable. It seems clear, moreover, that the plankton
does not vary directly with the temperature of the water.
Furthermore, Nathansohn has shown the influence of the
vertical circulation in the water upon the nourishment of
the phyto-plankton — by rising currents bringing up necessary
nutrient materials, and especially carbon dioxide from the
bottom layers ; and also possibly by conveying the products
of the drainage of tropical lands to more polar seas so as to
maintain the more abundant life in the colder water.
Putter's view is that the increased metabolism in the warmer
water causes all the available food materials to be rapidly
used up, and so puts a check to the reproduction of the
plankton.
According to van t'HoJff's law in Chemistry, the rate at
which a reaction takes place is increased by raising the
temperature, and this probably holds good for all bio-
chemical phenomena, and therefore for the metabolism of
animals and plants in the sea. This has been verified
experimentally in some cases by Jacques Loeb. The con-
trast between the zoo -plankton of Arctic and Antarctic
zones, consisting mainly of large numbers of small Crus-
taceans belonging to comparatively few species, and that of
tropical waters, containing a great many more species,
generally of smaller size and fewer in number of individuals,
is to be accounted for, according to Sir John Murray and
others, by the rate of metabolism in the organisms. The
PLANKTON 261
assemblages captured in cold polar waters are of different
ages and stages, young and adults of several generations
occurring together in profusion, ^ and it is supposed that the
adults " may be ten, twenty or more years of age." At the
low temperature the action of putrefactive bacteria and of
enzymes is very slow or in abeyance, and the vital actions of
the Crustacea take place more slowly and the individual
lives are longer. On the other hand, in the warmer waters
of the tropics the action of the bacteria is more rapid,
metabolism in general is more active, and the various stages
in the life -history are passed through more rapidly, so
that the smaller organisms of equatorial seas probably only
live for days or weeks in place of years.
This explanation, if confirmed, may account also for the
much greater quantity of benthonic organisms which has
been found so often on the sea-floor in polar waters. It is
a curious fact that the development of the polar marine
animals is in general ' direct ' without larval pelagic stages,
the result being that the young settle down on the floor of
the ocean in the neighbourhood of the parent forms, so
that there come to be enormous congregations of the same
kind of animal within a limited area, and the dredge will in
a particular haul come up filled with hundreds, it may be,
of an Echinoderm, a Sponge, a Crustacean, a Brachiopod,
or an Ascidian ; whereas in warmer seas the young pass
through a pelagic stage and so become more widely dis-
tributed over the fioor of the ocean. The " Challenger "
expedition found in the Antarctic certain Echinoderms, for
example, which had young in various stages of development
attached to some part of the body of the parents, whereas
in temperate or tropical regions the same class of animals
set free their eggs and the development proceeds in the open
water quite independently of, and it may be far distant from,
the parent animal.
1 Whether, however, the low temperature may not also retard
reproduction is worthy of consideration.
262 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
Another characteristic result of the difference in tempera-
ture is that the secretion of carbonate of lime in the form
of shells and skeletons proceeds more rapidly in warm than
in cold water. The massive shells of molluscs, the vast
deposits of carbonate of lime formed by corals and by
calcareous seaweeds, are characteristic of the tropics ;
whereas in polar seas, while the animals may be large, they
are for the most part soft -bodied and destitute of calcareous
secretions. The calcareous pelagic Foraminifera are charac-
teristic of tropical and sub -tropical plankton, and few, if
any, are found in polar waters. Globigerina ooze, a cal-
careous deposit, is abundant in warmer seas, while in the
colder Antarctic the characteristic deposit is siliceous
Diatom ooze.
It has been recorded that tropical plankton is especially
scanty around coral reefs, and the explanation has been
given that the abundant animal life of the reef feeding on
the microscopic plants of the plankton keeps the amount
visible at any one time very low. It may be a case of rapid
production and rapid consumption compared with the
slower rates of living and of reproducing in colder seas.
And in all plankton investigation and estimation it must be
borne in mind that the rate of production of successive
generations, of which we know very little, is probably quite
as important as the quantity of developed organisms present
at a given moment. This is a matter I shall have to return
to in a later chapter in connection with the fundamental
food supply of the ocean as the basis of man's harvest from
the sea.
The adaptation of many planktonic organisms to the
special conditions of their life in the surface waters is
interesting, and shows two main tendencies — to render
them inconspicuous, and to ensure buoyancy. Many, such
as Medusae, are gelatinous and transparent, or, if coloured,
are of a bluish tint, so as to tone in with their surroundings.
In order to maintain their position at any required level,
PLANKTON 263
or alter it without too much expenditure of muscular effort,
many free-swimming or floating animals, from Fishes down
to Protozoa, have some form of hydrostatic apparatus, such
as the swim-bladders of Fishes, the gas-containing floats
or pneumatophores of Siphonophora, the oil-globules of
Radiolaria and of some fish-eggs, or have the tissues so
reduced in bulk and so permeated with water, as in Medusae,
Salpse, etc., that the specific gravity of the body becomes
much the same as that of the surrounding sea. In some
cases the gas in the float can be secreted or absorbed as
required, so as to compensate for increased or diminished
pressure when changing to a different level.
Another device has been adopted in many cases in order
to take advantage of the varying viscosity of the water in
accordance with depth and temperature, viz., an increase
of the surface of the body in relation to its bulk by means of
changes of shape and formation of outgrowths, such as
flat expansions, long spines, and branched or plume -like
setae. Many examples of such remarkable devices, leading
to extraordinary and very ornamental appearances, are
seen in Copepoda, Foraminifera, Radiolaria, etc., especially
in warmer seas, where the viscosity is low.
One of the most striking phenomena of the plankton,
in temperate seas at least, is the way in which it differs both
in quantity and quaUty, in the same locaHty, at different
times of year. In British seas, for example, a typical haul
of the plankton-net in spring (say March or April) will
consist almost wholly of Diatoms and allied organisms (Plate
XIX, Fig. I, and Plate XXII, Fig. 1) ; it is a phyto -plankton ;
while a corresponding haul in summer (say July or August)
will have few Diatoms, if any, but will show a large number of
Copepoda (Plate XIX, Figs. 3 and 4), and many other kinds of
minute animals, making up a tjrpical zoo -plankton. At the
time of the spring Diatom maximum a small silk tow-net
hauled for about fifteen minutes through about half a mile
of the surface water of the Irish Sea will usually catch some
264 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
millions of individual Diatoms, constituting on the average
some 999,999 out of each million of organisms in the
gathering. Similarly, when the zoo-plankton is at its height
in summer, the same net may contain a gathering of Copepoda
numbering hundreds of thousands of individuals, making up
about 999 out of every thousand organisms present. At other
intermediate times of year the plankton is smaller in amount,
and of a mixed nature (PL XVII, Fig. 2 ; PI. XXI, Fig. 4).
It is evident that there is an annual planktonic cycle
(text-fig. 17) as follows: — After a winter minimum, the
spring maximum of phy to -plankton starts about March
(when the sea has still a low temperature), and increases to
a climax in April, May, or June, after which the Diatoms
rapidly diminish in number to their minimum in the height
of summer, when their place is taken by the Copepoda and
other animals of the zoo-plankton, to be followed by a
secondary lesser Diatom maximum in late autumn (Septem-
ber or October), after which the whole plankton diminishes
to the winter minimum. This cycle has been followed year
after year at several localities in North-West Europe ; but
further observations throughout the year are still required in
regard to tropical seas and the open oceans.
In a series of observations carried on at the Port Erin
Biological Station during fifteen years, 1907-21 (when on
the average six plankton hauls were taken and examined^
every week, amounting to over 7,500 samples in all),
it is found that the spring maximum for the total
plankton varies from April to June, and is in most years
in May ; and if the total plankton be analysed into its
three chief constituents (Fig. 17), Diatoms, Dinoflagellates,
and Copepoda, they are found to succeed one another in
that order. For example, the Diatom maximum was in
March in 1907, in April in 1909, and in May in 1908; the
DinoflageUate maximum was about a month later in each
^ For a summary of the results, see " Spolia Runiana V," Journ,
Linnean Soc, Botany, July, 1922.
PLANKTON
265
case, and the Copepod maximum usually about a month
after that of the Dinoflagellates.
The cause of all these seasonal changes is still very obscure,
and they may be due to the interaction of several factors.
In addition to the normal succession of stages in the life-
histories of the organisms throughout the year, and the
diminution or extermination of those (such as Diatoms)
JC.C
*oopoo
2.000 D
»,oooC
■t^^-*^-"-T •III "^^ t — 1 1 — =*— 1 r
Jan. Feb. Mar. Apr. May Jitxe July Aug. Sept. Oct. Nov. Dec.
Fig. 17 — Curves fob Total Plankton and fob Chief Constituent
Groups in Port Erin Bay in 1912.
which form the food of others (such as Copepoda and young
fishes), we naturally turn to the meteorological conditions
prevaihng at the various seasons as being a possible cause
of the increase or the diminution in numbers. Although
one may arrive at the general conclusion that variations in
the amount of the plankton from year to year must be due
ultimately to meteorological conditions, it is not easy to
266 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
demonstrate the connection between cause and effect in
detail. The plankton increase in spring cannot be due to
temperature, as the records of sea temperatures at Port
Erin show that they are as low, if not lower, in March, at
the time when the phyto-plankton is waking up to activity,
as at any time during the winter. But although the sea has
not yet commenced to warm up, the days are much longer
and there are more hours of sunlight, and it seems probable
that this great increase in phyto-plankton, one of the most
important phenomena of the ocean, depends primarily upon
the rapid increase in the amount of solar energy which
accompanies the lengthening days of early spring about the
time of the vernal equinox. But this rapid increase in
Diatoms is no doubt also aided by the relatively large amount
of carbon dioxide and other necessary food matters, including
silica for their shells, accumulated in the sea during the
winter. Gran and Gaarder's investigations in the Chris-
tiania Fjord show a connection between the plankton in
spring and the amount of oxygen in the water, and also
indicate some relation between the increase of plankton and
the presence of nutrient matters in the water. The rapid
disappearance of the Diatoms after their maximum may be
due to a combination of causes — the exhaustion of the
carbon dioxide and the silica in the water, the depredations
of the increasing numbers of Copepoda, young fishes, and
other diatom-eating animals, or even to the toxic effect upon
the water of their own metabolism in dense crowds.
Moreover, the conditions that suit one Diatom apparently
do not suit another, and so we have a regular succession
of different generic forms appearing at different times, and
therefore under different conditions. The first to become
abundant are the winter and early spring forms — the
circular discs or drum-shaped species of Coscinodiscus and the
almost square or oblong bright yellow species of Biddulphia
(Plate XXII, Fig. 1 ) . These two genera are at their maximum
in March and early April in an average year. Then follow
PLANKTON 267
the abundant species of Chcetoceras (Plate XIX, Fig. 2),
jointed filaments with groups of deUcate curved hairs and
spines projecting at their sides, and although species differ
somewhat in their times of appearance, the genus as a whole
is characteristic of late April and early May. After Chce-
toceras comes the equally large and important genus Ehizo-
solenia (Plate XIX, Fig. 1), long, slender, needle-like forms
of a dark brown colour when present in mass. In the Irish
Sea we have three most abundant species which follow in
this order — Rhizosolenia semispina in late May, R. shruhsolii
in June, and R. stoUerfothi in late June and early July. When
any one of these kinds of Diatoms is present in abundance,
it may discolour the sea, and give a characteristic appearance
to a plankton gathering in a glass vessel. Coscinodiscus
and Biddulphia give a yellowish brown tint and a granular
appearance. Chcetoceras colours the water pale green, and
when the numerous filaments sink to the bottom they
adhere together in fluffy masses like cotton-wool. Rhizo-
solenia in mass has a dark greenish brown colour and a very
characteristic silky appearance.
Then, again, some species of Chcetoceras and Rhizosolenia
help to constitute the second (autumnal) maximum in
September and October, and Biddulphia sinensis makes its
appearance in quantity in November.
There are many other genera and species of Diatoms which
appear in the plankton during the year, all, no doubt, with
their special characters and requirements. I have only
taken, as examples, the few that are most abundant in the
Irish Sea, and are probably the most important as food for
animals in the plankton.
There are thus many problems of the plankton connected
with the determination of the causes of all these seasonal
variations I have referred to — first the sudden awakening of
microscopic plant-life in early spring, when the water is
still at its coldest, and when in the course of a few days the
upper layers of the sea may become so filled with Diatoms
2 68 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
that a small tow-net will capture hundreds of millions of
individuals in a few minutes. And these mjnriads of micro-
scopic organisms, so abundant as to colour the water, after
persisting for a few weeks, may disappear as suddenly as
they came — which is another problem for the oceanographer.
Then later in the summer follow the swarms of Copepoda and
many other kinds of minute animals, and these again may
give place in the autumn to the second maximum of Diatoms,
or in some years of the Dinoflagellates, such as Ceratium and
Peridinium—all of which requires explanation.
I have already referred to some of the theories which
have been advanced to account for these more or less periodic
changes in the plankton, such as Liebig's " law of the
minimum," which limits the reproduction of an organism
by the amount of that substance necessary for existence
which is present in least quantity — it may be nitrogen, or
silicon, or phosphorus. According to Raben, for example,
it is the accumulation of silicic acid in the sea -water during
winter that determines the great increase of Diatoms in
spring, and again in autumn, after a further accumulation.
Some writers have considered these variations in the
plankton to be caused largely by changes in temperature,
supplemented, according to Ostwald, by the resulting
changes in the viscosity of the water ; but, as I have
indicated above, my opinion is that those investigators
are more probably correct who attribute the spring develop-
ment of phyto-plankton to the increasing power of the
sunhght and its value in photosynthesis, the process by which
green plants (including Diatoms) obtain the necessary supply
of carbon from the carbon dioxide in the sea-water.
As was pointed out by Edward Forbes just seventy years
ago, the seas around the British Islands (his " Celtic
Province ") are the meeting-ground of northern (" Boreal ")
and southern (" Lusitanian ") faunas — " The Celtic Province
is the neutral ground of the European seas ; it is the field
upon which the creatures of the north and those of the
PLANKTON 269
south meet and intermingle." ^ We can now give an oceano-
graphic explanation of the facts by showing that no less
than three masses of sea-water of different origin and
character may enter and affect the British seas in varying
quantity, viz. (1) Arctic water, such as normally surrounds
Iceland and the east of Greenland, and may extend farther
south and eastwards towards Norway, the Faroes, and
Shetland ; (2) Atlantic water (Gulf Stream drift), which
impinges on the western shores of Ireland and may flood the
English Channel, and even extend round the Shetlands and
down into the North Sea; and (3) "Coastal" water, such
as flows out of the Baltic and, mixed with the other waters,
bathes the coasts of N.W. Europe generally, and to a large
extent surrounds the British Islands. Each of these bodies
of water contains characteristic plankton organisms, and
this accounts for much of the variation in our fauna from
year to year.
The Irish Sea, for example, may be regarded as primarily
an area of coastal water, which is liable to be periodically
invaded to a greater or less extent by bodies of warmer and
Salter Atlantic water, carrying in oceanic plankton, and
more rarely by Norwegian or Arctic water, causing an
invasion of northern organisms. The variations in the
nature and amount of the plankton at the same locality in
different years depend partly upon the volume and period
of such southern and northern invasions, but also upon
other factors, such as temperature, sunshine, rainfall, wind,
etc., at the time and previously. Of the half-dozen most
abundant Copepoda of the Irish Sea, only one, Temora
longicornis (Plate XXIII), is a " Neritic " form, native to the
locahty. The others are all usually regarded as " Oceanic,"
that is, as having their true home and centre of distribution
somewhere to the north, west, or south in the open Atlantic.
In many oceanographical inquiries there is a double object.
1 Natural History of the European Seas, p. 80, Van Voorst, 1859.
But this portion was written by Forbes about 1853.
270 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
There is the scientific interest and there is the practical
utihty — the interest, for example, of tracing a particular
swarm of a Copepod like Calanus, and of making out why it
is where it is at a particular time, tracing it back to its place
of origin, finding that it has come with a particular body of
water, and perhaps that it is feeding upon a particular
assemblage of Diatoms ; endeavouring to give a scientific
explanation of every stage in its progress. Then there is the
utihty — the demonstration that the migration of the Calanus
has determined the presence of a shoal of herrings or mackerel
that are feeding upon it, and so have been brought within the
range of the fisherman and have constituted a commercial
fishery.
We have evidence that pelagic fish which congregate in
shoals, such as herring and mackerel, feed upon the Crus-
tacea of the plankton, and especially upon Copepoda. A
few years ago, when the summer herring fishery ofi the south
end of the Isle of Man was unusually near the land, the
fishermen found large red patches in the sea where the fish
were specially abundant. Some of the red stuff, brought
ashore by the men, was examined at the Port Erin Laboratory
and found to be swarms of the Copepod Temora longicornis
(Plate XXIII) ; and the stomachs of the herring caught at the
same time were engorged with the same organism. It is not
possible to doubt that during these weeks of the herring fishery
in the Irish Sea the fish were feeding mainly upon this species
of Copepod. Some years ago. Dr. E. J. Allen and Mr. G. E.
BuUen pubHshed some interesting observations, from the
Plymouth Marine Laboratory, demonstrating the connection
between mackerel and Copepoda and sunshine in the EngUsh
Channel ; and Farran states that in the spring fishery on the
West of Ireland the food of the mackerel is mainly composed
of Calanus.
Then, again, at the height of the summer mackerel fishery
in the Hebrides, in 1913, we found the fish feeding upon the
Copepod Calanus finmarchicus (Plate XXIV, Figs. 1 and 2),
PLATE XXIII.
Fig. 1. — Temora longicornis, from the " red patches " on the
sea ; magnified.
Fig. 2. — Temora longicornis, from the stomach of a maclcerel ;
magnified.
[Photo-tnicro(fraphs by A. Scott.
PLANKTON 271
which was caught in the tow-net at the rate of about 6,000 in a
five-minutes' haul, and 6,000 was also the average number
found in the stomachs of the fish caught at the same time.
These were cases where the fish were feeding upon the
organism that was present in swarms — a monotonic plankton
— but in other cases the fish are clearly selective in their diet.
If the sardine of the French coast can pick out from the micro-
plankton the minute Peridiniales in preference to the equally
minute Diatoms which are present in the sea at the same
time, there seems no reason why the herring and the mackerel
should not be able to select particular species of Copepoda
or other large organisms from the macro-plankton, and we
have evidence that they do. Thirty years ago (in 1893) the
late Mr. Isaac Thompson showed me that young plaice at
Port Erin were selecting one particular Copepod, a species of
Jonesiella, out of many others caught in our tow-nets at
the time. H. Blegvad in Denmark showed in 1916 that
young food fishes, and also small shore fishes, pick out certain
species of Copepoda (such as Harpacticoids) and catch them
individually — either lying in wait or searching for them. A
couple of years later Dr. Marie Lebour published a detailed
account of her work at Plymouth on the food of young fishes,
proving that certain fish undoubtedly do prefer certain
planktonic food.
These Crustacea of the plankton feed upon smaller and
simpler organisms — the Diatoms, the Peridinians, and the
Flagellates — and the fish themselves in their youngest post-
larval stages are nourished by the same minute forms of the
plankton. Thus it appears that our sea-fisheries ultimately
depend upon the living plankton, which no doubt in its turn
is affected by hydrographic conditions. A correlation seems
to be established between the Cornish pilchard fisheries and
periodic variations in the physical characters (probably the
salinity) of the water of the Enghsh Channel between Ply-
mouth and Jersey. Apparently a diminished intensity in
the Atlantic current corresponds with a diminished fishery
272 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
in the following summer. Possibly the connection in these
cases is through an organism of the plankton.
Nathansohn, Gran and others lay stress upon the import-
ance of vertical currents in bringing nutriment to the plank-
ton, and suggest that some of the irregularities may be due
to such up-welling currents from deeper water. The enor-
mous quantity of plankton over the Faroe Bank is probably
due to vertical currents caused by the bank facing the Gulf
Stream drift. It is a matter of common observation among
fishermen that where there are strong tidal races and swirls
sea-birds congregate, and are found to be feeding on small
fishes, and these in their turn are eating the abundant plank-
ton brought and nourished by the current.
It is only a comparatively small number of different kinds
of organisms — both plants and animals— that make up the
bulk of the plankton that is of real importance to fish. One
can select about haK a dozen species of Copepoda which
constitute the greater part of the summer zoo-plankton
suitable as food for larval or adult fishes, and about the same
number of generic types of Diatoms which similarly make up
the bulk of the available spring phy to -plankton year after
year. This fact gives great economic importance to the
attempt to determine with as much precision as possible the
times and conditions of occurrence of these dominant factors
of the plankton in an average year. An obvious further
extension of this investigation is an inquiry into the degree of
coincidence between the times of appearance in the sea of the
plankton organisms and of the young fish, and the possible
effect of any marked absence of correlation in time and
quantity.
Just before the war the International Council for the
Exploration of the Sea arrived at the conclusion that fishery
investigations indicated the probabiHty that the great periodic
fluctuations in the fisheries are connected with the fish larvse
being developed in great quantities only in certain years.
Consequently they advised that plankton work should be
^)
PLATE XXIV.
[Photo -micrograph by A. ScOTT.
Fig. 1. — The Copepod Calanus fin^narchicus from the West Coast
of Scotland. X 20.
Fig. 2. — Photograph of large hauls (about 1,000 c.c. in a jar) of Calanus,
taken from the yacht " Runa " in 1913 on the West Coast of Scotland,
with the large "Nansen" net shown. The largest haul was esti-
mated to contain at least half a million individuals.
PLANKTON 273
directed primarily to the question whether these fluctuations
depend upon differences in the plankton production in differ-
ent years. It was then proposed to begin systematic investi-
gation of the fish larvae and the plankton in spring, and to
determine more definitely the food of the larval fish at various
stages — all of which was interrupted by the war.
About the same time Dr. Hjort made the interesting
suggestion that possibly the great fluctuations in the number
of young fish observed from year to year may not depend
wholly upon the number of eggs produced, but also upon
the relation in time between the hatching of these eggs and
the appearance in the water of the enormous quantity of
Diatoms and other plant plankton upon which the larval
fish, after the absorption of their yolk, depend for food. He
points out that, if even a brief interval occurs between the
time when the larvse first require extraneous nourishment
and the period when such food is available, it is highly
probable that an enormous mortahty would result. In that
case even a rich spawning season might yield but a poor
result in fish in the commercial fisheries of successive years
for some time to come. So that, in fact, the numbers of a
" year-class " of fish may depend not so much upon a favour-
able spawning season as upon a coincidence between the
hatching of the larvse and the presence of abundance of
phyto-planliton available as food.^
The curve for the spring maximum of Diatoms corresponds
in a general way with the curve representing the occurrence
of pelagic fish eggs in our seas. But is the correspondence
sufficiently exact and constant to meet the needs of the case ?
The phy to -plankton may still be relatively small in amount
during February and part of March in some years, and it is
not easy to determine exactly when, in the open sea, the fish
eggs have hatched out in quantity and the larvae have
1 For the purpose of this argument we include in " phyto-
plankton " the various groups of Flagellata and other minute
organisms which may be present with the Diatoms.
T
274
FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
absorbed their food-yolk and started feeding on Diatoms.
If, however, we take the case of one important fish — the
plaice — we can get some data from our hatching experiments
at the Port Erin Biological Station, which have now been
carried on for a period of nearly twenty years. An examina-
tion of the hatchery records for these years in comparison
with the plankton records of the neighbouring sea, which
have been kept systematically for the fifteen years from 1907
to 1921 inclusive, shows that in most of these years the
Diatoms were present in abundance in the sea a few days at
least before the fish larvae from the hatchery were set free, and
that it was only in four years (1908, '09, '13, and '14) that
Plaice just hatched
Fig. 18 — Young Larval Plaice with supply of Food-yolk, x 15.
there was apparently some risk of the larvae finding no phyto-
plankton food, or very little. The evidence so far seems to
show that if fish larvae (Fig. 18) are set free in the sea as late
as March 20, they are fairly sure of finding suitable food ; ^
but if they are hatched as early as February, they run some
chance of being starved.
But this does not exhaust the risks to the future fishery.
C. G. Joh. Petersen and Boysen- Jensen, in their valuation of
the Limf jord, in Denmark, have shown that in the case not
only of some fish, but also of the larger invertebrates on
1 All dates and statements as to occurrence refer to the Irish Sea
round the south end of the Isle of Man. For further details see
Report Lanes, Sea-Fish, Lab, for 1919.
PLANKTON 275
which they feed, there are marked fluctuations in the number
of young produced in different seasons, and that it is only
at intervals of years that a really large stock of young is added
to the population.
The prospects of a year's fishery may therefore depend,
primarily, upon the rate of spawning of the fish, affected no
doubt by hydrographic and other environmental conditions ;
secondarily, upon the presence of a sufficient supply of phyto-
plankton in the surface layers of the sea at the time when
the fish larvae are hatched, and that in its turn depends upon
photosynthesis and physico-chemical changes in the water ;
and, finally, upon the reproduction of the stock of molluscs or
worms at the bottom, which were all transitory members of
the plankton in their embryonic and larval stages, and which
constitute the fish food at later stages of growth and develop-
ment.
The question has been raised of recent years — Is there
enough plankton in the sea to provide sufiicient nourishment
for the larger animals, and especially for those fixed forms,
such as Sponges, that are supposed to feed by drawing currents
of plankton-laden water through the body ? In a series of
papers from 1907 onwards Piitter and his followers put
forward the views (1) that the carbon requirements of such
animals could not be met by the amount of plankton in the
volume of water that could be passed tlnrough the body in a
given time, and (2) that sea- water contained a large amount
of dissolved organic carbon compounds which constitute the
chief, if not the only, food of a large number of marine animals.
These views have given rise to much controversy, and have
been useful in stimulating further research, but I believe it is
now admitted that Putter's samples of water from the Bay
of Naples and at Kiel were probably polluted, that his figures
were erroneous, and that his conclusions must be rejected,
or at least greatly modified. His estimates of the plankton
were minimum ones, while it seems probable that his figures
for the organic carbon present represent a variable amount of
276 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
organic matter arising from one of the reagents used in the
analyses. The later experimental work of Henze, of Raben,
and of Moore, shows that the organic carbon dissolved in
sea-water is an exceedingly minute quantity, well within the
Hmits of experimental error. Moore puts it, at the most, at
one-millionth part, or one mgm. in a litre. At the Dundee
meeting of the British Association in 1912 a discussion on
this subject took place, at which Piitter still adhered to a
modified form of his hypothesis of the inadequacy of the
plankton and the nutrition of lower marine animals by the
direct absorption of dissolved organic matter. Further work
at Port Erin since has shown that, while the plankton supply
as found generally distributed would prove sufficient for the
nutrition of such sedentary animals as Sponges and Ascidians,
which require to filter only about fifteen times their own
volume of water per hour, it is quite inadequate for active
animals, such as Crustaceans and Fishes. These latter are,
however, able to seek out and capture their food, and are not
dependent on what they may filter or absorb from the sea-
water. This result accords well with recorded observations
on the irregularity in the distribution of the plankton, and
with the variations in the occurrence of the migratory fishes
which may be regarded as following and feeding upon the
swarms of planktonic organisms. I shall deal with this
question of nutrition in marine animals in further detail in
the final chapter.
Our knowledge of the relations between plankton produc-
tivity and variation and the physico-chemical environment
is still in its infancy, but gives promise of great results in the
hands of the bio-chemist and the physical chemist. Recent
work by Sorensen, Pahtzsch, Witting, Moore, and others
have made clear that the hydrogen-ion concentration as
indicated by the relative degree of alkalinity and acidity in
the sea -water may undergo local and periodic variations, and
that these have an effect upon the living organisms in the
water and can be correlated with their presence and abun-
PLANKTON 277
dance. To take an example from om* own seas,^ Professor
Benjamin Moore and his assistants, in their work at the Port
Erin Biological Station in successive years from 1912 onwards,
have shown that the sea around the Isle of Man is a good deal
more alkaline in spring (say April) than it is in summer (say
July). The alkalinity, which gets low in summer, increases
somewhat in autumn, and then decreases rapidly, to disappear
during the winter ; and then once more, after several months
of a minimum, begins to come into evidence again in March,
and rapidly rises to its maximum in April or May. This
periodic change in alkalinity will be seen to correspond
roughly with the changes in the living microscopic contents
of the sea represented by the phyto-plankton annual curve,
and the connection between the two will be seen when we
realize that the alkalinity of the sea is due to the relative
absence of carbon dioxide. In early spring, then, the
developing myriads of Diatoms in their metabolic processes
gradually use up the store of carbon dioxide accumulated
during the winter, or derived from the bi-carbonates of
calcium and magnesium, and so increase the alkalinity of the
water, till the maximum of alkalinity, due to the fixation of
the carbon and the reduction in amount of carbon dioxide,
corresponds with the crest of the phyto-plankton curve in,
say, April.
Prof. B. Moore has calculated that the annual turnover
in the form of carbon which is used up or converted from the
inorganic into an organic form probably amounts to some-
thing of the order of 20,000 or 30,000 tons of carbon per
cubic mile of sea-water, or, say, over an area of the Irish
Sea measuring 16 square miles and a depth of 50 fathoms ;
and this probably means a production each season of about
two tons of dry organic matter, corresponding to at least
ten tons of moist vegetation, per acre — which suggests at
1 I have already referred to these variations in alkalinity in the
chapter on Hydrography, but they require to be noticed here in
their relation to plankton production.
278 ^ FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
least the possibility that there may be much more ultimate
food matter in the sea than is at present made use of, and
that a scientific aquiculture in the future may discover the
means of converting more of the available carbon into fish
food and then into fish, so as to increase our marine harvest.
Testing the alkalinity of the sea-water may therefore be
said to be merely ascertaining and measuring the results of
the photosynthetic activity of the great phyto-plankton rise
in spring due to the daily increase of sunlight.
It must not be supposed that in these two chapters I have
been able to give an exhaustive account of plankton occur-
rence, investigations, methods, difficulties, and results ;
but possibly enough has been said to give some idea of
the nature of the matter and its importance both in scientific
interest and in practical utility. I shall have to return to
the subject of plankton in relation to the ultimate food of
the sea in the final chapter.
CHAPTER XV
APPLIED OCEANOGRAPHY
AQUICULTURE— OYSTER AND MUSSEL
FISHERIES
Oceanography has many practical appHcations — chiefly,
but by no means wholly, on the biological side. Even if
attention be directed only to contents of the sea of direct
value to man, as food, bait, adornment and other useful
products, these range from whales and fur-seals downwards
through many groups of lower marine animals, and even
sea- weeds (kelp, etc.), to the inorganic salt which is obtained
by evaporation in salt-pans and otherwise on many coasts.
As examples, it is only necessary to mention the valuable
pearl fisheries of Eastern seas and of many coral lagoons,
the sponge fisheries of the Levant, the precious red-coral
of the Mediterranean, the clam of America, the trepang of
China, our own lobster, crab, shrimp, prawn, and many
other minor coastal industries, before passing to two more
important products — (1) shellfish, such as oysters, and (2)
the true fishes, such as sole, cod, and herring — both of which
will be treated more in detail as man's harvest from the sea.
These great fishing industries throughout the world
deal with living organisms of which the vital activities and
interrelations with the environment are matters of scientific
investigation. Aquiculture is as susceptible of scientific
treatment as agriculture can be ; and the fisherman who
has been in the past too much the nomad and the hunter,
if not, indeed, the devastating raider, must become in the
future the settled farmer of the sea if his harvest is to be
279
280 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
less precarious. Perhaps the nearest approach to cultiva-
tion of a marine product, and of the fisherman reaping what
he has sown, is seen in the case of the oyster and mussel
industries on the west coast of France, and of these I shall
now give a short account from notes made on a personal
visit some thirty years ago.
Oyster-culture is spread over a number of centres from
Arcachon in the south to Brittany and the Channel in the
north, and may be conveniently divided into the capture
and rearing of the very young oysters, or " spat," which
takes place at Arcachon and elsewhere, and the fattening
and preparing the full-grown shellfish for the market, which
is seen at Marennes and other centres farther north.
Arcachon, on the west coast, a little south of Bordeaux,
is notable for the large shallow bay, or inland sea, shut
off from the ocean outside by a long bar of sand, in which
is a single narrow opening through which the tide runs
strongly. At low tide a large area of the bay is dry, and
this is occupied by oyster-farms, the only evidence of which
at high water is the rows of saplings marking the boundaries
of submerged fields. As the tide falls, fields, banks, ditches,
sluices, spat -collectors and young oyster- ambulances all
make their appearance ; and the oyster-culturists, men,
women and children, troop out from the town and may
be seen for the next few hours, some in boats proceeding
along the water-ways, others wading in the fields inspecting
their stock, collecting and shifting, removing enemies of
the precious oyster, and performing other necessary opera-
tions. It reminds one of market -gardening and working
on allotments, and it is a busy scene until the rising tide
drives the workers from their farms back to the town.
Plate XXV shows two views on different parts of an oyster
pare at low tide.
The bay of Arcachon is, from its natural features, a
splendid rearing-ground for immense quantities of young
oysters. The old breeding oysters produce their free-swim-
AQUICULTURE 281
ming larvae in summer (July), and these larvae, during the
days of their free existence, are carried in enormous numbers
by the outgoing tide down the runnels and streams which
converge towards the channel that opens to the Atlantic.
The first object of the oyster-farmer is to place artificial
" collectors " in the course of these streams, so as to inter-
cept the microscopic young oysters in that earliest stage,
and so save them from being carried out to sea and lost.
When the proper time comes, the oyster larva will settle
down for life by attaching itselE to any object which is firm
and clean — not slimy, like some sea-weeds. They have
been found elsewhere growing in numbers on the soles of
old boots, on the stems and bowls of old tobacco-pipes, and
on fragments of glass-ware and crockery. In natural
oyster-beds on the sea-bottom the young become attached
to the shells of the old oysters, to other dead shells, such
as those of cockles, and to any stones there may be in the
neighbourhood. On many oyster-beds, especially in Hol-
land, great quantities of old shells of oysters and cockles
are scattered over the ground as " cultch," for the young
" spat " to settle upon. But at Arcachon, and elsewhere
in France, special " collectors " are constructed and care-
fully placed in the best positions at the right time of year.
The simplest are merely bundles of twigs, or " fascines,"
tied together and anchored with stones. The more usual
collectors are earthenware tiles, coated with a preparation
of lime and sand, so as to be clean and slightly rough, which
facilitates the attachment of the larva. Moreover, this
layer of whitewash forms a medium which can be cracked
off later on, when the young oyster has grown sufficiently
to be independent of support, and thus the tiles are left
intact, need not be broken up to free the oysters, and so
can be used as collectors year after year. The proportions
of lime and sand in the whitewash differ on different farms,
and so do the methods of arranging the tiles. They may
be stacked on the ground in open piles, so that the ebbing
282 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
tide will run through the openings, or they may be arranged
in rough wooden crates, the successive layers of tiles being
placed alternately longitudinally and transversely, in order
to break up the currents of water, delay its passage, and
cause eddies, so as to afford every opportunity for those
larvae that are ready to come in contact with the hme-coated
surface and adhere to it. As many as a couple of hundred
young oysters may sometimes be found attached to one
tile. The success of a " spat-fall " depends largely upon
the weather during the critical days, and upon the collecting
tiles being placed in position just at the right time — not
too early, as then they may become coated with diatoms
and other minute organisms, which render the surface slimy,
and so prevent the oyster larvae from adhering.
At Arcachon the young oysters are allowed to remain
on the tiles at least till October or early in winter, when
they are about the size of the finger-nail, say J to f inch in
diameter. Then the tiles are collected and taken ashore,
and the process of " detroquage," or separating the oysters
from the tiles, takes place. This is effected very rapidly by
a skilled hand, the Httle oyster, with the film of lime to
which it is attached, being flicked off the tile rapidly by a
square-ended knife.
Many of the oysters are sold at this stage to the " ele-
veurs," who rear and fatten them elsewhere ; but many, on
the other hand, are kept for another year or two in the
pares at Arcachon. These latter, after removal from the
tiles, are placed in flat trays having a floor and a lid of close
galvanized wire netting of about J-inch mesh, and these
trays are fixed between short posts in the sea on the oyster-
pare, so that the tide can run freely through them,
supplying the oysters with food and oxygen. Such trays
are called " ambulances," or " caisses ostreophiles," and
measure about 6 feet by 4 feet, by 6 inches deep. They
serve to keep the young oyster during the early period of
its life out of the sediment, and they also protect it from
PLATE XXV.
%'i lM:J
■•k;<>v' "t-xMHi Mi^i iawiAaiitz)r>*i«,l
Oyster-Culture at Arcachon : Two Views of Work in an Oyster
Parc at Low Tide.
AQUICULTURE 283
its numerous natural enemies, such as the boring sponge
(Cliona), which ruins the shell; starfishes and crabs, which
manage to suck or pick out the soft animal ; and whelks
{Purpura and Nassa) and other Gastropods, which can bore
a hole through the shell and prey upon the oyster within.
The ambulances are constantly looked after by the oyster-
men, and especially women, who come at low tide, when
the " caisses " are exposed, open the lid, and pick over the
contents, removing any enemies or impurities which may
have got in, such as crabs, taking out any dead shells, and
rearranging the oysters, if necessary, so that all may have
a fair chance of obtaining food and growing normally. The
young oysters grow rapidly iu the ambulances, and have
soon to be thinned out. The larger ones are removed to
other ''caisses" — or, if large enough, they are thrown into
the open enclosures or little fields of the pare. Additional
young ones may now be added, or all the space may be
required for a time by those left. In this way, by thinning
out, rearranging, and adding, relays of young oysters in
their first year may occupy the ambulances for eight months,
although an individual oyster may only be in for one month
or so. Eventually all the oysters not sold to " eleveurs " or
exported get transferred from the ambulances to the field-
like enclosures of the pare (PI. XXV).
During the last half-century the number of oyster-pares
at Arcachon has varied from about 3,000 to 6,000. The
number of oysters exported in the year has generally varied
from about 300 million to 500 million, and the value from
about a milhon francs upwards, according to the current
prices for oysters.
The whole of this prosperous industry, both at Arcachon
and elsewhere on the coast of France, was started between
1859 and 1865, by a professor of biology, M. P. Coste,
who, instigated by the Government, made investigations
and experiments, and is said to have imported Scottish
oysters from the then flourishing natural beds in the Firth
284 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
of Forth ; and now we buy back from the French ostreo-
culturists the descendants of our own oysters to replenish
our neglected and depleted beds. It is an object-lesson in
the value of aquiculture.
The further rearing and preparing for market of the oysters
produced at Arcachon takes place farther north, on the
west coast of France, in the neighbourhood of La Rochelle,
Marennes, and Le Croisic. In these and many other places
along that flat coast there are large, shallow ponds, or
" claires," into which sea- water is brought by means of canals
with sluices, so that the "claires," in some cases several
miles inland, may be filled at high spring tides and remain
as areas of stagnant sea-water, becoming warmer and denser,
and more and more occupied with Diatoms and other
vegetation, as the days go on, until the next high tide affords
an opportunity of refreshing the water. In this somewhat
artificial environment the half -grown oyster from Arcachon
is highly nourished, rapidly increases in size, and becomes
fat, soft, and luscious. Moreover, in certain " claires " the
process known as " greening " takes place. The gills and
certain other parts of the oyster acquire a bluish green
colour, which is probably due to the pigment in the Diatom
Navicula fusiformis variety ostrearia, which abounds in these
"claires" and upon which the oysters feed. Such green
oysters (" huitres vertes de Marennes ") are highly esteemed
in the Parisian and some other markets.
The final stage in the preparation of the oyster is to
cleanse it from impurities, decomposing organic matter,
and possibly germs, by placing it for a few days in clean
tiled tanks, known as '' bassins de degorgement," in which
the pure sea-water is frequently renewed, so as to wash away
all deleterious matter.
Oysters, mussels, and other shellfish are, of course, liable,
from the nature of their food — microscopic particles carried
in from the water or the mud close to land — ^to become
infected with various bacteria, including, it may be, if there
AQUICULTURE 285
is sewage contamination in the neighbourhood, disease
germs such as the bacillus of typhoid. Experiments have
shown that the common intestinal colon bacillus is of fre-
quent, if not constant, occurrence in the oyster and other
shellfish, and that the typhoid bacillus may, though very
rarely, be present, and can live for a short time in the mollusc's
interior. These disease organisms can, however, be readily
washed out by a stream of running water or by placing for
some hours in water which is frequently changed. The
living shellfish, in fact, tends by its vital processes to clear
itself of such matters, and the typhoid bacillus is fortunately
a comparatively dehcate organism, and cannot live for
long in pure sea-water.
Oyster-cultiu'e is pursued in Holland on much the same
lines as in France, with somewhat less elaboration, and
without the differentiation between the collecting and
rearing and the later stages of cultivation seen at Arcachon
and Marennes. In a Dutch oyster-farm, as at lerseke or
at Bergen-op-zoom, or elsewhere on the Scheldt, we may
see spat collection by means of tiles, and also the distribution
of cockle-shells to form a '' cultch," the rearing of young
oysters in ambulances, their further cultivation in the later
years of their life in ponds, which can be filled and emptied
from canals with sluices ; and in some cases young oysters
shipped from Arcachon are relaid and fattened in Holland,
and even on some parts of the English coast, in place of
going to the "claires" of Marennes and Brittany.
Oyster -culture in the Mediterranean, where there is little
or no tide, is carried on in the Bay of Spezia and elsewhere
by means of poles stuck in the sea-bottom in shallow water
connected by a network of coarse twisted ropes, in the
interstices of which the oysters are attached so that they
hang in great vertical strings in the water. This is merely
a device for accumulating as large a number of oysters as
possible in a given area of water, and also to render them
easily accessible, so that a man going round the poles in a
286 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
boat can haul up rope after rope and pick oJS such oysters
as he desires for the market. They are said to grow large
with extreme rapidity, thus hanging freely in the water.
The spat is collected on fascines sunk in deeper water at
the mouth of the bay, and transferred, when of sufficient size,
to the ropes inshore. There are other similar methods of
cultivation at Taranto, Lake Fusaro, and elsewhere in the
south of Italy, where this form of aquiculture has been
practised continuously since the time of the Roman Empire,
when it is said to have been started by Sergius Orata, called
by Cicero *' Luxuriorum Magister." The methods which
Coste introduced to revive the depleted oyster-beds of
France in the middle of last century were based upon what
he had seen in the south of Italy. Plate XXVI, Fig. 2,
illustrates the method of cultivation seen in the Bay of Spezia.
It is unnecessary to give further examples from the south
of Europe, but the following shows a different form of
aquiculture, in which oceanographic knowledge in regard to
temperatures and salinities of the water plays a part.
There are some remarkable salt-water ponds on the west
coast of Norway where oysters are grown with great success.
Such a pond, for example, is found at Espevig, and the follow-
ing particulars are taken from the account given by Herman
Friele to the International Fishery Congress at Bergen in
1898. This pond is separated from the fjord outside by a
low sandy barrier about 5 feet above high-water mark.
It is only at a high spring tide or during an inshore gale
that the waves pass over this barrier and renew the salt
water in the pond. The pond is also supplied with fresh
water from a small stream, and normally the surface layer
of the water is completely fresh. At a depth of 3 to 5 feet,
however, it is as salt as the fjord outside. The temperature
of the deeper Salter water is very high — about 28° C. (82° F.)
• — and abundance of organisms, both animals and plants,
are found growing on the rocky sides, while the muddy
bottom is covered with large clusters of oysters. Professor
PLATE XXVI.
[Photo by A. Scott.
Fig. 1. — Part of a Mussel Skear in Morecambe Bav.
Fig. 2. — Oyster Culture in the Bay of Spezia.
(From sketch by the Author \i\ 1894.)
AQUICULTURE 287
Helland's explanation of the high temperature of the Salter
deeper water in the pond is that the layer of fresh water
on the surface forms a cover, preventing the deeper water
below from coming to the surface and losing its heat. So
he considers that the heat of the lower water layers, derived
from the sun, constantly accumulates throughout the sum-
mer. From his observations he shows that only a few days
of sunshine are necessary to make a considerable difference
in the temperature ; he has observed a rise of two degrees in
one day. The ponds may be regarded as hot beds for oyster-
growth. The rocky sides are covered with masses of old
oysters, which are left undisturbed as a breeding stock, while
from wires stretched across the pond and supported at
intervals by empty barrels are hung bundles of birch branches
or fascines to serve as collectors of the spat. About 3,000
of these collectors are placed in the pond in early summer,
and the spat settles upon them between June and September ;
but the collectors are left in position until the following
April, when the young oysters are removed with shears and
sent either to another pond, where they are laid out in
galvanized wire ambulances, or to the oyster company's
grounds on the shore near Stavanger.
An average harvest from the Espevig pond is about one
million young oysters, and it is said that in some years the
deposit of spat may be so large that one can hardly put a
needle's point between the individual young oysters, and
the whole of the collector looks as if it had been dipped
in mortar. In such a case, however, only a comparatively
small number of these young oysters has room to develop ;
the rest are sacrificed to overcrowding, but this loss might
be reduced by some alteration in the collectors. The whole
system is suggestive of possibiHties in scientific aquiculture
far beyond what is at present practised.
The American oyster, which is a separate species (Ostrea
virginiana), is cultivated or fished at many places on the
Atlantic coast from New England down to Carolina, and
288 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
also on the Pacific at San Francisco and elsewhere. In
some of these locaHties the beds are exposed at low water,
and the oysters can be collected by hand. Elsewhere they
are always submerged, and the oysters are dredged from
the bottom or fished up by means of long double rakes known
as tongs. But these methods, which can scarcely be called
cultivation, do not differ materially from our own oyster-
beds and layings at Whit stable, Colchester, and elsewhere
on the English coasts, and do not show the differentiation
in method and division of labour which have been success-
fully evolved by the French ostreoculturists.
Turning now to mussel-culture, this also is seen in its
most elaborate form on the west coast of France, where in
the great, shallow, muddy bay known as Anse de 1' Aiguillon,
a remarkable system of cultivation on stakes connected
by wattling, and known as " bouchots a monies," has been
carried on for many centuries. It was established by an
Irishman called Walton, who was wrecked there in 1235
from a small vessel containing sheep. He was the only
survivor, but managed to save some of the sheep, which
are said to be the origin of some highly prized flocks still
found in that district. Reduced to great straits to make
a living, this man is said to have woven rough nets of grass,
which he spread on stakes on the wide expanse of mud exposed
in the bay at low tide in order to capture sea-fowl. He
noticed that his nets became covered with young mussels,
which were thus protected from being buried in the mud,
grew rapidly in size, and afforded food to himseK and his
neighbours. This suggested the planting of stakes inter-
laced with twigs to afford attachment to the mussels, and
so the bouchot system, which now extends for miles, and
affords a flourishing industry to various villages, such as
Esnandes and Charron, became established. The boucho-
leurs of the present day still maintain the ancient method
of planting their wattled stakes and collecting and trans-
AQUICULTURE
289
planting their mussels from place to place at different seasons
as seems best for the growth and protection of the shellfish,
and of visiting their different kinds of bouchots at low tide
in curious little flat-bottomed boats known as " aeons,"
which can be propelled over the soft mud (in which a man
would sink) by means of one foot encased in a large sea-boot
projecting over the side of the boat. I have myseK experi-
enced this curious method of navigation on mud during a
Fig. 19. — Bouchot Mussel Cultube on the West Coast of France.
visit to the bouchots, and I give here a reproduction of a
rough sketch made at the time (Fig. 19).
In other countries where there are no locaHties suitable
for this bouchot system mussels occur in beds, or " scars,"
which, like the oyster-beds, are in some cases exposed at low
tide, while in others they are wholly submerged, and the
mussels have to be obtained by dredges or other implements
u
290 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
from a boat. Such beds, under some circumstances, are
liable to become overcrowded to such an extent that the
individual mussels have not room to grow to their full
size, and so become stunted or misshapen. In these cases
great benefit to the fishery results from thinning out and
transplanting to other suitable but less densely populated
locaHties. Plate XXVI, Fig. 1, shows an overcrowded
mussel-bed.
The shellfish industries of the west coast of England
are of considerable importance, both as food and bait.
In recent years the returns in the Lancashire and Western
Sea-Fisheries District alone amounted to about two -fifths of
the total for England and Wales, and the value to the fisher-
men was about £40,000. There is probably no area of land
or water in our country that gives such a high return in
weight of food per acre as a mussel-bed, and the shellfish
are eminently responsive to cultivation and susceptible of
improvement. Here, at least, if not yet in the open sea, we
may have an aquiculture comparable to agriculture on land.
In Morecambe Bay, some years ago, the local sea-fisheries
committee made a notable experiment ^ in order to show
the fishermen what could be done in this direction, by judi-
cious transplanting, at small cost. The work was carried
out on the mussel-beds at Heysham, in Morecambe Bay,
probably the most extensive mussel-producing grounds on
the west coast of England (see Plate XXVI, Fig. 1).
In 1903 the committee gave a grant of £50 to be expended
on labour in transplanting overcrowded and stunted mussels,
which had ceased to grow, to neighbouring areas not so
thickly populated. The result was most striking. At the
end of a few months the old starved, undersized mussels —
" blue-nebs," as the fishermen called them — had grown
I inch or more, and had reached the legal selHng size.
The animals inside the shell were in fine condition, and these
^ For the full details, see the article by Scott and Baxter in the
Lancashire Sea- Fisheries Laboratory Report for 1905.
PLATE XXVII.
[Photo by A. ScoxT.
Transplanted Mussels in Morecambe Bay,
showing the origmal size of the " blue neb " and the large expanse of
smooth black new growth ; natural size.
AQUICULTURE 291
mussels found a ready market at a good price. Shellfish
which in their original condition could never have been of
any use as food, had been turned into a valuable commodity
at comparatively httle labour and expense. The money
value to the fishermen of these mussels that had been trans-
planted for £50 was estimated to have been at least £500.
In 1904, again, a grant of £50 resulted in the transplanting
of some boat-loads of undersized mussels, which were sold
later on at a profit of over £500.
In the following year (1905) a grant of £75 resulted in
the sale of the transplanted mussels some months later for
£579. On that occasion over 240 tons of the undersized
mussels had been transplanted in six days' work. It was
found that on the average the transplanting increased the
bulk of the mussels about 2 J times, and the increase in length
to the original shell was in some cases well over an inch
(see Plate XXVII).
These experiments, on the industrial scale, were not
carried further. The Lancashire committee only desired
to show what could be done and how to do it, and had no
intention of running a commercial concern ; but the results
are very suggestive and encouraging as to what might be
done in the further cultivation of our barren shores.
An interesting appHcation of scientific methods to the
improvement of a shellfish industry has been in practice
for some years at Conway, in North Wales. The extensive
mussel-beds in the estuary are badly polluted by sewage,
and have been under investigation by the scientific staff of
the Lancashire and Western Sea-Fisheries Committee since
1904. Dr. James Johnstone showed, as the result of many
experiments, that the polluted mussels, when relaid in clean
sea-water, were able to purify themselves by ehminating
from 90 to 95 per cent, of the sewage bacteria in two to three
days. He also found that the mussels can live in water
containing up to five parts per million of chlorine, while the
sewage bacteria are sterilized by one part of chlorine per
292 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
million, and this obvious method of treating polluted shell-
fish was suggested to the authorities.
The regulation of the beds, however, eventually passed into
the hands of the Conway Corporation, and they, under the
supervision of the Board of Agriculture and Fisheries,
erected special purification tanks and water-circulating
apparatus, and introduced the method of treating the mussels
by sea- water containing a trace of chlorine. Thus successive
consignments of polluted mussels brought by the fishermen
are passed through the chlorinated sea-water before being
sent to market. In a country such as ours, where the estuaries
and the more densely populated shores, where shellfish are
grown and eaten, are liable to become increasingly infected
with sewage organisms, it is obviously most important that
scientific methods of both cultivation and purification of all
kinds of edible shellfish should be adopted without delay.
CHAPTER XVI
THE SEA-FISHERIES
Our food from the sea is in the main obtained from the
great commercial sea-fisheries, the discussion of which in
their scientific aspects is a very large subject, obviously only
to be outhned, with a few examples of different methods of
investigation, within the limits of a single chapter. It is
scarcely necessary to emphasize the vital importance of the
sea-fisheries which supply our markets. The harvest from
the sea was never of more importance to the nation than it
is now, and it probably will become of still greater importance
in future years. The sooner all classes of the population
learn to appreciate the value of fish as a highly nutritious
food, the better it will be for the welfare of the community,
and the greater will be the encouragement to those concerned
in the industry to use their best endeavours both to increase
the supply and to make the best possible use of it by preserv-
ing the produce, so that nothing caught be allowed to go to
waste. There is still much to be done in the two directions
(1) of exploiting local and periodic coastal fisheries and
discovering the best methods of making available for future
use what cannot be consumed at the moment ; and (2) of
educating the public to overcome prejudice and make a
fuller and more systematic use of unaccustomed but
excellent fish food — such as, for example, the summer-
caught rich-in-fat herring cured in brine as a winter food.
Most people have very little idea of the magnitude of our
British fisheries, now the greatest in the world, of the rate
at which they were increasing of recent years — before the
293
294 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
war — or of the predominating position to which our fishing -
fleets had attained. In 1914, our fisheries made up nearly
one-haLf of the total for all countries of North-West Europe,
and nearly 70 per cent, of the North Sea fisheries alone.
The total produce of our sea-fisheries had more than doubled
in the previous quarter of a century, and the average of the
last few years before the war amounted to over a milhon
tons (about 23,500,000 cwts.), bringing in about £15,000,000
when landed, and to be valued at probably three times as
much, say nearly fifty millions sterling, by the time it
reached the consumers. In 1922, the value of the total
fish as landed was about £18,000,000.
This great increase, previous to 1914, in the amount of
fish brought to the markets, had been due to improvements
in the boats and in the methods of fishing, and to an
enormous extension of the fishing-grounds. The picturesque
old sailing trawler of Brixham, working in local waters with
a smaU beam-trawl, had developed into the large but ugly
and highly efiicient modern steam-trawlers equipped with
huge otter-trawls, and making lengthy voyages to Iceland
and the White Sea in the North, or the Canaries and the
coast of Morocco to the south — conducting their operations,
in fact, over an area of the continental shelf occupying
more than a million square miles and down to depths of
over 200 fathoms.
All this applies to the time before the war. As a natural
result of war conditions, and the economic disturbances that
followed, the produce of the sea-fisheries dropped to less
than a third of what it had been — the total catch during
war-time averaged about 7,000,000 cwts. per annum. Very
many millions of fish were therefore left uncaught in the
sea to grow and propagate, and it has been an interesting
speculation and investigation ever since whether or not this
unforeseen and undesired experiment in restriction of fishing,
on an enormous scale, has resulted in the restocking of
depopulated grounds, such as parts of the North Sea. That
THE SEA-FISHERIES 295
has probably happened to some extent. Some post-war
statistics show an increased stock on the ground ; but
there is also some evidence of natural fluctuations in the
fish population which may give rise to conflicting evidence,
and so obscure the results of protection. The matter
cannot yet be regarded as settled.
The true fishes (Pisces) that are caught by the fishermen
and sold for food in our markets belong to two main divisions
— (1) the Elasmobranchs, such as skates, rays, and dogfish,
with a cartilaginous skeleton ; and (2) the Teleosts, including
all the ordinary bony fishes. For practical purposes, the
bony fishes may be divided into the " round " and the
" flat " flsh. Round fish are those — such as cod, herring,
and salmon — where the body is more or less circular in
cross-section, while flat fish include the equally famifiar
soles and plaice, with flattened upper and lower surfaces.
Amongst round fishes there are two groups of primary
importance, those related to the cod (Gadidse) and those
of the herring tribe (Clupeidse). The former include : —
Hake — a southern fish, forming the greater part of the
catch off the south of Ireland, in the Bay of
Biscay, and southwards to Morocco.
Haddock — a northern fish, forming nearly half the total
catch from the North Sea.
Cod — a northern fish, very abundant north of the British
area, around the Faroes, Iceland, Norway, etc.
Whiting — abundant in the North Sea, and generally
around our coast.
Ling — a northern fish, abundant on the west of Ireland,
Scotland, and farther north.
The cod is probably the most useful of fishes to man.
All parts of its body are of value. In addition to its prime
importance as a food, both fresh and salted, oil is extracted
from the fiver, the head, tongue, and sounds also form a
good article of food, the offal and bones are ground up into
manure said to be equal to guano, the roe is used as bait
296
FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
in the sardine fisheries of France, and from the swim-bladder
isinglass is made.
The herring family (Clupeidae) includes the sprat, the
pilchard (the young of which is so familiar in the preserved
form of " sardines "), the anchovy, and, most important of
all, the true herring — that wonderful fish which, as the
mainstay in the fourteenth century of that powerful trading
and political organization the Hanseatic League, and after
that of the Dutch commercial and naval supremacy, may be
said to have played its part in determining the history of
nations and the fate of empires. All these Clupeoid fishes
are noteworthy for the relatively large amount of fat they
contain in the form of minute globules of oil disseminated
through their flesh, while the cod and its allies are almost
destitute of fat. The herring, however, has a very different
amount of fat in its composition in different states and at
different times. For example, the winter herring, in poor
condition, may have only 4 or 5 per cent, of fat, while the
spawning summer herring may have from 30 to 40 per cent.
The average of three series of Manx herrings caught in the
summer of 1917 and cured in brine gave the following analy-
sis, ^ and may be contrasted with the composition of the cod : —
Herring.
Cod.
Fat
Proteid .....
Ash { + salt) . . .
Water (+ traces) .
22
21
9
48
0-3
16-7
1-3
81-7
Other Manx herrings, however, caught in September,
1917, cured in brine and analysed in winter, gave as much
as 32*72 per cent, of oil (fat).
It is this relatively large amount of easily digestible fat
^ By Professor James Johnstone of the University of Liverpool
(see, for further details, Lancashire Sea-Fisheries Laboratory Report
for 1917).
THE SEA-FISHERIES 297
in the flesh of the herring that gives this fish its special value
as a winter food, and no effort should be spared to increase
the home consumption of herrings. They are probably the
cheapest form of animal food, and have a very high nutri-
tional value. Many people will be surprised to learn that
out of 12,000,000 cwts. of herring landed, nearly 10,000,000
cwts. were exported annually (90 per cent, in 1913) before
the war. The total catch is far from being too much for
the needs of our own country. Taking three herrings to
the pound, the total catch in the United Kingdom before
the war would only allow two herrings a week to each adult
individual of the population.
The flat-fish of our markets (with the exception of skates
and rays, which are a totally different kind of fish, and are
nearly related to dogfishes and sharks) belong to the family
Pleuronectidae, the members of which undergo a remarkable
transformation in their early life-history, whereby the
bi-laterally symmetrical larva, with the right and left sides
of the body similar, and an eye on each, undergoes in its
growth a torsion of the head and some other parts, a flatten-
ing of the body from side to side, and a great extension
dorso-ventrally so as to be converted into the famiHar
" fluke " form, with the upper (usually the right) side of the
flat body pigmented and bearing both eyes, and the lower
blind and more or less non-pigmented or white. Our best-
known marketable Pleuronectids are : —
Halibut — a northern fish, of large size.
Sole — commoner in the south down to Morocco ; a shallow-
water fish common in the Irish Sea.
Turhot — in deeper water ; a 5^orth Sea fish, but not very
abundant.
Brill — more abundant than the turbot, especially in the
south.
Plaice — a northern form, very abundant on the coasts of
Iceland and farther north; distributed all around
our coast, and important as a food of the people.
298 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
Flounder — of less importance ; especially abundant in
estuaries.
It is in connection with some of these more sedentary
flat-fish that depletion of certain fisheries has been most
clearly estabHshed, or, to put it more cautiously, that it is
felt that there may be risk of the fishery being depleted
on certain grounds. The more widely roaming herring,
mackerel, cod, and haddock are probably safe from man's
ravages ; but the more local, bottom-haunting sole and
plaice are less independent and more at the mercy of their
immediate environment, including the fishing-fleet. It is
therefore in connection mainly with such fish that attempts
have been made in the United States and several European
countries to compensate for the ravages of the fisherman by
artificially hatching and rearing young flat-fish to add to the
stock in the sea.
One of the most important and practical questions in
the whole range of marine zoological investigation is — Can
we increase the yield of our fisheries by cultivation ? We
can cultivate shellfish, such as oysters, mussels, and cockles,
on the seashore with much profit. Can we do anything
towards farming our inshore or offshore fishing grounds ?
The fisherman at present is a hunter of the fish. Can we
reasonably hope to make him in time a farmer, reaping a
harvest that, in part at least, he has sown ? These are the
ideas that have led to the hatching, rearing, and transplanting
operations which are carried on with more or less energy in
various parts of the world.
It is by no means easy to determine whether the artificial
hatching of sea-fish has as yet had any effect upon any local
fishery. It is not possible to mark or brand your larval
fish from the hatchery, so as to recognize them when caught
as adults ; nor is it practicable to devise the control experi-
ment of both adding to and not adding to the same fishery,
or two exactly similar fisheries, simultaneously, so as to
secure comparable results. But it may be pointed out that
THE SEA-FISHERIES
299
much help may have been given to a depleted fishery,
although no effect is noticeable. The condition of the
fishery might have been far worse had no artificial help
been given.
When one thinks of the enormous numbers of eggs pro-
duced naturally, in a season, by most of our common fish,
as shown in the following list, one is inclined to fear that the
comparatively small number of millions, or even of hundreds
and thousands of millions, of young fish turned out from
hatcheries, will be of little avail, and may amount to nothing
more than the proverbial " drop in the bucket."
The average number of eggs spawned by a single female
fish in the course of one season is : —
Ling .
.
. 20,000,000 to 30,000,000
Tiirbot
8,000,000 to 9,000,000
Cod .
4,000,000 to 6,000,000
Flounder
1,000,000
Sole .
600,000 to 700,000
Mackerel
600,000
Haddock
450,000
Plaice
300,000
Herring
J
32,000
X* <• A 1 .ji r fT
But probably a truer conception of the state of affairs is
obtained by reflecting that, while countless milHons are
produced, countless milUons also perish each season from
natural causes (as opposed to man's operations) — that is,
from their natural enemies and other adverse influences in
the environment. As eggs, as embryos, as larvae, and as
post-larval young fishes, they are the food of most of the
larger animals around them in the sea. Probably only a
very few out of each milhon peach maturity, and it is out
of that scanty remnant that the fisherman takes his toll,
and so may in some cases " overfish " a limited area so as
to reduce the population below its power of recovery. The
enormous numbers produced do not, then, necessarily mean
an enormous rate of increase, but they may afford man his
opportunity to step in and, by adding some milHons from his
300 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
hatchery, do something to repair the damage and avert or
delay the destruction of a local fishery.
It may be pointed out further that, even though the young
fish, such as plaice, are turned out to sea soon after being
hatched, say about the time of the absorption of the food-
yolk, they have been protected from their natural enemies
during some three or four weeks at least — about half the
time from the egg to the metamorphosis — and that, moreover,
is the period when, as eggs, embryos, and young larvae, they
are most feeble and defenceless and most in need of artificial
protection (see Plate XXVIII).
We find at the Port Erin hatchery that, although the
periods of embryonic and larval life vary to some extent —
probably with the temperature of the sea-water — the average
times are as follows, in the case of the plaice : — •
Embryo, from fertilization of egg to hatching, in February, 24 days.
„ „ „ „ „ in March, 22 days.
in April, 20 days.
Larva, from hatching to absorption of yolk, about 7 or 8 days.
Post-larval, absorption of yolk to metamorphosis, 28 to 40, say
34 days.
The most significant work, and interesting experiments
in connection with artificial operations, have been carried
out by the United States Bureau of Fisheries and by the
Fishery Board for Scotland. One example may be given
from the work of each of these organizations. It has been
long recognized that if a species of fish could be introduced
into an area where it was previously unknown, that would
be satisfactory evidence of the success of artificial operations,
and the United States Bureau has shown in its successive
Annual Reports of the Commissioner of Fisheries that by
collecting and hatching the eggs of the shad {Clupea sapidis-
sima) on the Atlantic coast and setting the larvae free in
the Pacific in the neighbourhood of the Sacramento river,
a profitable shad-fishery has been estabhshed on the
Californian coast. The last report published shows that
PLATE XXVIII.
Figs. 1 to 3. — Three successive stages in development of Plaice larvae in
the egg, magnified.
Fig. 4. — Plaice larva hatching from egg, tail first.
[Photo by Dr. F. Ward.
Fig. 5. — Plaice Hatching-boxes at the Port Erin Biological Station.
THE SEA-FISHERIES 301
in 1915, the latest year for which statistics are completed,
the Pacific shad-fishery yielded over 7 J millions of pounds,
valued at over 75,000 dollars.
In addition, extensive operations in the hatching and
setting free of fry are conducted on the Atlantic coast.
Over 52J millions of shad-fry from the hatcheries were
distributed in 1918 in the Eastern States. In the Commis-
sioner's report for 1921 (published in 1922) it is stated that
the two hatcheries then working were distributing all their
fry locaUy in Maryland and North Carohna, and the report
adds : " In view of the conditions that exist in other shad-
streams where artificial propagation is not conducted, it
seems but just to assume that the hatcheries have been a
factor in maintaining the shad- fisheries in their vicinity."
The Fishery Board for Scotland carried on for some years
an interesting experiment in adding artificially hatched
plaice larvae to a circumscribed sea -area (Upper Loch Fyne)
with the view of determining whether an increase was
noticeable in the number of young fish present. Positive
results seem to have been obtained. During a period of
six years, millions of larvae were hatched at Aberdeen and
deposited in Loch Fyne, and during the next six years none
were added ; while during the whole period of twelve
years experimental hauls of the net were made on certain
selected beaches where the young metamorphosed plaice
congregate. The statistical results apparently indicate that
during the years when larvae were added the number of
young fish caught, per hour of fishing, was more than
double the number caught in the succeeding period of six
years. Or, to put it another way, the figures given in the
report show that the addition of about 20 miUions of plaice
larvae a year doubled the number of young metamorphosed
fish on the shallow beaches of Loch Fyne.
It has sometimes been said that the young fish turned out
from hatcheries may possibly be weaklings, which, on account
of having been reared under artificial conditions, may die
302 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY.
in their early youth, perhaps even before undergoing meta-
morphosis. Experience shows that all such fears are
groundless. In the hatchery at the Port Erin Biological
Station young plaice have been reared up to their fourth
year, when they had become sexually mature, and had,
a year before, in their turn produced spawn for the hatchery.
In 1917 there were three generations of plaice living together
in the institution — the grandparent spawners, which had
been originally wild fish ; the parents, which were hatched
in the spring of 1914 and were then spawning (in March, 1917) ;
and the young of the third generation, which were developing
as normal larvse. The following year (March, 1918) some of
the fish hatched in 1914 had again produced fertile spawn
— there can be no doubt that they were perfectly normal
healthy fish.
In addition to such operations in hatching and rearing,
a further experiment that has been tried with the object
of restocking depleted fisheries is the transplanting of young
fish from shallow waters where they are present in great
quantities (" nurseries "), and perhaps overcrowded, to other
deeper fishing-grounds where there is abundance of food
and where growth will probably be more rapid. Professor
Walter Garstang first showed, some years ago, that small
plaice caught in spring on the Dutch inshore grounds and
transferred to the richer feeding-ground of the Dogger Bank,
in the centre of the North Sea, grew very much more quickly
than those left inshore. The following statement as to the
result of this experiment is quoted from a recent article by
Dr. E. J. Allen :—
" Plaice 7| inches long, when captured in April on
the inshore grounds, were on the average 13f inches long
by the following November when transplanted to the
Dogger Bank, whereas those that remained on the inshore
grounds were only 9-J inches long at the same date.
Expressed as weights, the differences are still more striking.
Fish of 2 J ounces increased in seven months to 15 ounces
THE SEA-FISHERIES 303
on the Dogger Bank, but only to 4J ounces on the inshore
grounds.
" The cost of catching the small plaice and transporting
them to the feeding-grounds is not excessive if large numbers
are dealt with, and an experiment on a commercial scale
would, in the opinion of most fishery naturalists, be now
fully justified. It must be remembered, however, that for
all projects which aim at increasing the supply of marketable
fishes in the high seas international co-operation is almost
essential, as the grounds are open to all nations and all
would benefit by any improvement effected."
Apart from these and many other experiments in practical
fisheries exploitation and cultivation — in which the United
States of America certainly led the way^modern fisheries
research is directed towards finding out the conditions
under which the food-fishes five, feed, migrate, and reproduce
their kind, so as to determine the possibilities and methods
of preserving them from destruction, increasing their
numbers, and even eventually of predicting when and where
profitable fisheries may take place.
And, in regard to all these characteristics — feeding,
spawning, etc. — a special study has to be made of each
kind of fish. Many of them differ very notably. To take
an example of this from the spawning habits and the early
stages of life, the eggs of the herring are laid upon stones
and sea-weeds on the bottom of the sea in shallow water,
and there they remain undergoing their embryonic develop-
ment until the young herrings are hatched out ; but this is
quite exceptional amongst common edible fish. Most of
the others, such as the cod, the plaice, and all their relations,
produce eggs that float and remain near the surface of the
sea throughout their further development, as was discovered
in 1864 by Professor G. 0. Sars in the case of the cod.
The various kinds of edible fish are caught, some by hooks
on long fines (such as the cod), some by trains or long lengths
of nets (the herring), and some by beam- or otter- trawls
304 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
dragged along the sea-bottom (the flat-fish). The methods
of fishing vary from place to place and from time to time
throughout the year.
Many sea-fisheries are local and seasonal. This is due to
the movements or periodic migrations of the fish, and one
of the most important practical applications of oceanography
is to determine what causes these migrations in each parti-
cular case — why it is that one kind of fish is more abundant
in one locality than in another, why the fish is present at
one season and absent at others, or is more plentiful one year
so as to give rise to a good fishery. We are beginning to
understand some of the causes of these movements of fish
and the variations in their abundance, but much has still
to be learned in regard to all.
The movements may be classified into : —
(1) Those caused by physical characters of the water
(temperature, salinity, currents, etc.).
(2) Those due to feeding needs.
(3) Those explained by breeding or spawning habits.
As examples of the influence of the environment, we may
take the case of the cod, which is a northern or cold water
fish, so in Norway it constitutes 80 per cent, of the total
fish-catch, and in our seas it is a winter fishery ; while its
relation, the hake, is a southern fish, frequenting warmer
water and making up 65 per cent, of the catch in the Bay
of Biscay. The case of the haddock, which is 50 per cent,
of the total catch in the North Sea and only 3 per cent, in
Norwegian seas, has been explained as due to the absence
of large areas of soft bottom at a suitable depth for that fish
on the coast of Norway.
Nearly fifty years ago,Moebius and Heincke first showed,
from their investigations of 1877 and subsequent years,
that in the case of the Baltic and Kattegat there were annual
immigrations of northern fishes in spring and of southern
fishes in autumn ; and in their expedition of 1890, Otto
Pettersson and Ekman proved that these seasonal move-
THE SEA-FISHERIES 305
ments of fish from outside were caused by an inflow of
Atlantic (Gulf Stream) water in autumn, and of more
northerly waters in spring. Since then it has been estab-
lished by the work of many investigators that these inflows
of outside water into the North Sea are only part of a wider
annual periodicity in the system of currents of the North
Atlantic. In summer there is a great increase in the amount
of GuK Stream water flowing over the Wyville Thomson
ridge towards the Shetlands and the North Sea. Below
this warmer and more saline water lies the cold Arctic water
of the Norwegian Sea, and it is about the line of junction
of these two bodies of water, at about 100 fathoms or more,
that we have what Sir John Murray called the " mud-line,'*
where detritus accumulates and where fishes and Crustacea
(such as Calanus) are present in quantity. This region is
the feeding-ground of the cod and other fishes, and the site
of important spring and summer fisheries. In addition to
this annual periodicity, which floods the Norwegian Channel
and North Sea with Gulf Stream water. Otto Pettersson has
shown that there is also a secular periodicity, which after
an interval of years results in a diminution of the pulse of
the Gulf Stream, so that for some months the inflow of
Atlantic water becomes much less, and as a result there is
an increased flow in the autumn of northern water into the
Norwegian Channel, etc., causing changes in the spawning
of the herring and in the consequent fisheries. This was
notably the case, for example, in November 1893 (see Otto
Pettersson, Ur Svensha, vii, 1922).
Again, take the case of an interesting oceanographic
observation which, if estabhshed^ may be found to explain
the variations in time and amount of important fisheries.
Otto Pettersson in 1910 discovered by his observations in
the Gullmar Fjord the presence of periodic submarine waves
of deeper Salter water in the Kattegat and the fjords of
the west coast of Sweden, which draw in with them from the
Jutland banks vast shoals of the herrings which congregate
X
306 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
there in autumn. The deeper layer consists of " bank-
water " of salinity 32 to 34 per thousand, and as this
rolls in along the bottom as a series of huge undulations
it forces out the overlying fresher water, and so the herrings
living in the bankwater outside are sucked into the Kattegat
and neighbouring fjords and give rise to important local
fisheries. Pettersson connects the crests of the submarine
waves with the phases of the moon. Two great waves of
Salter water which reached up to the surface took place
in November, 1910, one near the time of full moon and the
other about new moon, and the latter was at the time when
the shoals of herring appeared inshore and provided a
profitable fishery. The coincidence of the oceanic phenomena
with the lunar phases is not, however, very exact, and doubts
have been expressed as to the connection ; but if established,
and even if found to be due not to the moon but to prevalent
winds or the influence of ocean currents, this would be a
case of the migration of fishes depending upon mechanical
causes.
A correlation seems to be established between the Cornish
pilchard fisheries and periodic variations in the physical
characters (probably the saHnity) of the water in the
English Channel, and between Dutch anchovies and the
temperature the previous year ; also between the prevalence
of coastal water and the Norwegian fisheries. The summer
catches of mackerel on the south coast have been shown to
vary with the amount of sunshine earlier in the year — the
connecting link being probably the large Copepod Calanus,
upon which we know the mackerel feeds. The herring, again,
in our summer fisheries is apparently affected in its move-
ments by the temperature of the water, the catches being
heavier in seasons when the water is colder, up to a limit,
for the shoals break up and the fishery comes to an end
when the temperature falls below 54*5° F.
The characteristics of the environment affect not merely
the movements, but also the nourishment and growth of
THE SEA-FISHERIES 307
the fish. In an assemblage of fish caught together in the
trawl, we generally find fish of several different ages, and
are able from the sizes to separate them into age -groups.
It is believed that we can also determine exactly the age
of many of the bony fish by examining the otoliths, or the
scales, where the successive annual rings of growth show
more rapid increase in summer and much less in winter ;
and even the growth in different summers is found to vary
according to the temperature. It is curious to think we
may be able to pronounce upon the cUmate of past years
by examining with a microscope the scales of a fish caught
to-day.
Amongst examples of movements due to spawning needs,
an extraordinary case is that of the common eels, which live
in fresh-water streams and lakes and other shallow fresh
waters for years without breeding, and then towards the
end of their lives change their appearance (acquiring a
silvery sheen and large eyes), and, giving up all their previous
habits, migrate to the deep sea and spawn in mid- Atlantic,
west of the Azores, beyond the 2,000-fathom line. From
there the leptocephalus-larvse are carried by the Gulf
Stream drift to the coasts of North- West Europe, taking
three years to the journey, and as elvers they migrate up
the rivers to people the inland waters, where no sexually
mature individuals, no eggs, and no larvae have ever been
found. The herring furnishes another good example of
spawning migrations, and comes into shallow water at
various points on our coast and in the Baltic, etc., to deposit
its eggs on suitable ground.
Feeding migrations or movements may be local and small
in amount and more or less irregular, as when a shoal of
plaice invade a bed of young mussels and move off again
when they have exhausted the food ; or may be greater
in amount, and periodic, as in the case of the mackerel
and the herring following their planktonic food.
Scientific investigations bearing on sea-fisheries questions
308 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
have hitherto dealt with the fish as they live in the sea — their
structure and habits, their reproduction and life-history,
their food and general relations to their environment —
with the object of discovering the best means of conserving
the fisheries or even of increasing the supply of fish. But
it is now coming to be recognized that there is need also of
biologico- chemical investigations on the fish after they are
caught, on the post-mortem changes that they undergo in
different circumstances, and on how best to preserve them
with their nutrient and other desirable qualities unimpaired
until they are put on the market and used as food.
Such investigations will teach us how best to deal with
the occasional, unexpected, superabundant catches which
glut the markets, and may even result in much good food
being wasted as field-manure. But they will also lead to
a more equitable distribution and a more profitable use of
the periodic profusion of such local fisheries as those of
herrings, mackerel and sprats. The best use, economically,
that can be made, for example, of the summer herring fishery
in the Irish Sea, or in the Hebrides, is to cure in various
ways (kippering, salting, etc.) the great bulk of the catch.
Distribution can thus be controlled, consumption can be
spread over a longer period, the product may be improved
as a food and local industries are established. As Dr. James
Johnstone has pointed out, " A clamant need of the present
time, and indeed of normal times, is the curing of summer-
caught herrings for consumption in winter, when fat-
rich foods are more useful than in the warmer months." ^
A minor, but still quite typical, example of such occasional
or even periodic glut of fishes, difficult to deal with and
leading to waste of good food, is the winter sprat fishery in
Morecambe Bay. During the height of a recent fishery
fully seventy tons of fish were landed each day, and the
value to the fishermen of such a catch was over £300. A
ton of sprats contains, on the average, 130,000 fish. In a
^ Lancashire Sea-Fisheries Laboratory Report for 1916, p. 23.
THE SEA-FISHERIES 309
day's fishing, therefore, nine millions of sprats may be
captured, and this goes on day after day without making
any appreciable difference to the abundance of the fish.
The question has naturally occurred in connection with
this and other similar fisheries elsewhere, whether it would
not be desirable, with a view to a more perfect distribution
and more economic utilization of this food product, to
establish curing or canning industries for the purpose of
converting the temporary superabundance of the fresh
perishable fish into a more permanent and highly nutritious
article of diet. It is satisfactory to know that the matter
is now being investigated from both the scientific and the
commercial points of view and that experiments are being
made which it is hoped will lead to such preservation
industries being established.
The United States Bureau of Fisheries with its very
extensive organization and ample resources sets an example
to the civilized world in the promotion and utilization of
their important fisheries — both marine and fresh- water.
Their experts seem to be equally successful in devising new
methods and in conducting an active propaganda. The
establishment of a new fishery, the provision of the necessary
markets and the all-important demand on the part of the
public are promoted simultaneously. The method seems
to be to boom one fish at a time : in 1916 it was the tile-fish,
and in 1917 the dog-fish under a new name. Our European
food-fishes have been known to the public for centuries,
and their names, such as herring, cod and plaice, are very
old ; but the " tile-fish " is new to the markets and the
name is a recent invention. When, as the result of scientific
exploration, the fish was found fn quantity and introduced
to the fishermen and the public, and it became necessary
to find a name shorter than the zoological designation
Lopholatilus chamceleonticeps , the terminal part (" tile ") ^
^ And possibly also because of the tile-like markings on the
head.
310 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
of the generic title was taken and is now firmly established
in common use. When the fishery had been in existence
for twelve months (1916) the known catch amounted to
upwards of 10,250,000 pounds, valued at more than
$400,000. During the fiscal year 1917 the tile-fish landed
reached 11,641,500 pounds, and the receipts of the fishermen
exceeded $477,730.
Having established this fishery, the Bureau then entered
on a campaign to convert one of the most destructive and
neglected fishes of the Atlantic coast, the spiny dog-fish,
into a valuable asset ; and the first step taken was to suggest
a change in the name of the fish for trade purposes. We
are told that people in all parts of the country will eat
*' cat-fish," but are prejudiced against " dog-fish," so the
Bureau altered the name of the latter to " gray-fish," which
" is descriptive, not pre-occupied, and altogether unobjec-
tionable." (Commissioner's Report for 1917.)
There was apparently at first much prejudice and opposition
to be overcome, but the Commissioner tells us that " an
early feature of the campaign was the complete change in
the fishermen's attitude after they had become fully in-
formed as to the Bureau's plans ; and the autumn of 1916
witnessed the extraordinary sight of New England fishermen
going out specially for gray-fish and selling their catch at
remunerative prices for food." It soon became evident
that the demand far surpassed the supply. The canned
fish met with a ready sale, and were soon all disposed of
as " the goods proved to be not only one of the best canned
products on the market, but also one of the most economical
to the consumer, who could buy at retail for 10 cents a can
containing 14 ounces net weight of fish. ' ' Again — ' ' Although
the canned product had been known to the trade and public
only since October, in April, 1917, it was known to be handled
by dealers in 128 cities and towns in New York and Pennsyl-
vania alone, and by May the fish was on sale by retailer^
in 30 states and the Pistrict of Columbia."
THE SEA-FISHERIES " 311
Many other instances of the energetic and successful
exploitation of American fisheries — in the interests both of
the fishermen and the pubUc — might be given, but these
two examples, both bearing newly-coined names which
have rapidly become famiUar to the pubHc, must sufiice.
Thus we have seen that sea-fisheries investigation and
promotion may be approached from many points of view,
and with the great advances that have been made of recent
years, the aspects and prospects of successful sea-fisheries
research have undergone changes which encourage the hope
that a combination of the work now carried on by hydro-
graphers and biologists in most civilized countries on funda-
mental problems of the ocean may result in a more rational
exploitation and administration of the fishing industries.
Edward Forbes long ago (1847) denounced Government
apathy and strongly urged that such scientific fisheries
work should be undertaken " for the good of the country
and for the better proving that the true interests of Govern-
ment are those Unked with and inseparable from Science."
All will most cordially approve of these last words, while
recognizing that our Government Department of Fisheries
is now being organized on better lines, is itseK carrying
on scientific work of national importance, and is, I am happy
to think, in complete sympathy with the work of independent
scientific investigators of the sea and desirous of closer
co-operation with university laboratories and biological
stations.
CHAPTER XVII
FOOD-MATTERS IN THE SEA
We arrive finally at these very fundamental questions :
What is the manner of nutrition of all Hving organisms of
the oceans ? and What are the ultimate food-matters in the
water ?
It will be agreed that the food of the economic animals
in the sea/ such as fishes, shell-fish and crustaceans, must
always be of interest and importance to man, and it is
commonly supposed that the larger marine animals feed
upon the smaller and simpler until organisms of microscopic
size are reached, which in their turn are nourished upon
inorganic substances dissolved in the sea -water. It has
frequently been pointed out that, in addition to the great
feeding -grounds on the sea -bottom where molluscs and
worms and zoophytes abound, the plankton (small floating
organisms of many kinds, both plants and animals) which
is abundant in most seas at nearly all times must be a
valuable constituent of the food both of young fishes of
various kinds and also of adult pelagic or migratory fishes
such as the herring and the mackerel. Of the innumerable
organisms in the plankton, two groups are of primary
importance in this connection : viz. (1) the Copepod
Crustacea, small animals on the average perhaps a tenth
of an inch in length, forming an excellent food like lobsters
or shrimps, and sometimes present in summer in great
abundance locally so as to constitute shoals upon which
mackerel, herring and other fishes are known to feed ; and
312
FOOD-MATTERS IN THE SEA 313
(2) the Diatoms/ minute miicellular plants with siliceous
coverings, much smaller than the Copepoda and of a totally
different nature, and probably not so suitable for food in
the case of a higher animal such as a fish, but available
as good vegetable food for many lower invertebrate animals.
The Copepoda (being animals) feed upon the Diatoms and
other allied minute organisms. The Diatoms, being plants,
are, however, able to nourish themselves and build up their
bodies from the carbon-dioxide and the soluble salts and
other substances dissolved in sea-water. Diatoms are there-
fore one of the producing groups in the sea, being able to pro-
duce or build organic matters such as starch and protoplasm
from inorganic materials ; while Copepoda are consumers^
as they require and use up already formed organic matter
(such as the Diatoms) for their nutriment. Bacteria
(plants without chlorophyll) in the sea are intermediate in
this respect. They no doubt require organic food, but
probably obtain it from dissolved organic matter derived
from sewage and the washings of the land, and from any
decomposing animal or vegetable matters in the sea, and
other products of the metabolism of higher organisms.
Such dissolved organic matter must vary in amount very
greatly in different places and in different circumstances,
and although constantly renewed it is also constantly being
used up or broken down by bacterial action into inorganic
matters. It is quite reasonable to suppose that many
minute and simple organisms in the sea which have no
mouth or other mechanism for taking in solid food, may be
able to obtain nutriment from the dissolved organic matter
in the water. It may therefore be said that the sea is to
some slight extent a nutritive medium, as was pointed out
long ago by Dr. W. B. Carpenter ; but very different views
have been expressed of late years as to the amount of such
possible source of nutriment in the form of dissolved organic
^ There are other still smaller organisms in sea-water, but the
Diatoms may be taken as a type of aU the micro-phyto-plankton.
314 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
carbon that may be present, and estimates have varied
from less than one to over ninety milligrammes per litre of
sea-water.
The general result of the work initiated by Hensen and
carried out by the Kiel school of investigators has certainly
been to emphasize the importance of the plankton as supply-
ing the nutriment that is necessary for the existence of
other marine animals. The extreme view put forward by
some was that we could actually estimate from a few small
samples the total amount of food available in wide oceanic
areas, and therefore the number of fishes or other animals
that could be supported.
Possibly as a reaction against the views of the Hensen
school, the physiologist Professor August Putter of Bonn,
in a series of remarkable papers from 1907 to 1912, attempted
to prove that the plankton in the sea is utterly insufficient
to nourish the animals which are supposed to feed upon it,
and that not only simple and minute organisms but also
large highly organized animals with a well-developed
alimentary canal, such as Crustacea, Mollusca and even true
fishes, could and do obtain most of their nutriment from
the dissolved organic matter in the water. He holds (1)
that the mass of plankton in sea-water is much too small
in amount to meet the food requirements of the larger
animals, and (2) that an abundant source of food is present
in the form of the dissolved organic compounds in the water,
and that it is on these that the sea-animals are nourished.
This view was referred to, briefly, in the chapter on plankton ;
but, though very improbable, it deals with such important
fundamental matters that it must be discussed at greater
length here.
According to Piitter, then, the living plankton is of
comparatively slight importance as a food material, and
many animals of the sea are nourished, somewhat Hke
endoparasites in the bodies of higher animals, by the
dissolved organic substances resulting from the decay and
FOOD-MATTERS IN THE SEA 315
metabolism of other organisms — such as the algae of the
plankton, and the other larger marine algae. Putter based
this conclusion upon figures which he published showing
that there was a surprisingly large amount of dissolved
organic carbon in the sea-water of the Bay of Naples,
where his work was carried out, and that the nutritive
requirements of some of the higher marine invertebrate
animals could not be met by the amount of lower organisms
(the plankton) contained in the volume of water available
for their use.
Taking certain common marine animals — he calculated
from the consumption of oxygen the minimal value of the
carbon required per unit of time for an animal of a given
body weight, then taking certain figures for the amount of
plankton strained from a given volume of water (by Lohmann
off Syracuse, during December) he calculated the amount
of water that the animal in question would require to strain
in order to obtain the required carbon, and declared it to
be an impossibly large amount. For example : In the
case of the common marine sponge Suberites domuncula at
Naples, he calculated that with a body- weight of 60 grammes
(about 2 oz.) it required 0*9 milligrammes of carbon per
hour. Taking Lohmann' s results as to the plankton in the
Mediterranean it followed that the sponge, in order to
obtain that amount of carbon from the plankton, would
require to filter 242 litres of sea-water per hour — about
4,000 times its own volume. This amount of water he
showed could not pass in the time through the openings and
water passages of the sponge. On the other hand, he finds
that the sea-water he anatysed contains sufficient of the
dissolved organic -carbon compounds to supply the needs
of the sponge from an amount of water that could easily
pass through the sponge cavities in an hour. He obtained
similar conclusions in the case of the Holothurian Cucumaria
grubei, and subsequently extended his investigations to an
ascidian, a sea-anemone and a fish, with like results,
316 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
Other competent observers, however, on repeating Putter's
experiments, have arrived at very different conclusions.
Thus while Putter found in the Bay of Naples as much as
65 to 92 milhgrammes of dissolved organic carbon per litre
of water, Henze in his investigation found only from 6
down to 3 milligrammes, and even less in some samples ;
and Raben, with better methods, found at Kiel, where the
water may be polluted, an average of about 12 milligrammes
per litre, and in the open Baltic only 3 milligrammes. Even
this, however, is a large amount of carbon compared with what
Putter and others state can be supplied by the plankton. It
must be remembered, however, that all methods of collecting
the smaller but immensely abundant organisms of the plank-
ton are still very defective, and that even the finest silk
nets, with which most of the data have been obtained,
allow a very large proportion of the nanno-plankton to
escape. But other estimates of the quantities of plankton
present are much larger than those made use of by Putter,
and we know that localities and seasons differ greatly.
Piitter's other figures, in regard to the food-requirements
of various animals, and therefore the volumes of water
they must strain, have also been controverted, and some
of the other independent estimates of the food-requirements
of various animals that have been made are as follows :
Professor E. Prince of the Canadian Sea -fisheries Depart-
ment states that if the sponge Suherites, one ounce in
weight, had such requirements that would mean nearly
1| billions of a Diatom like Skeletonema, or more than 7
biUions of Thalassiosira daily ; that similarly a Copepod
(Calocalanus) might require daily 9,750,000,000 Thalassi-
osira ; and that an oyster 5 inches long would consume
tV cub. in. of solid food daily, and therefore would need to
filter 8 or 9 gallons of water, nearly 2,000 times its
own bulk. Kishinouye states that the Japanese Sardine
would require to swim nine miles to catch the f gram of
food needed daily, as only one gram of Diatoms and other
FOOD-MATTERS IN THE SEA 317
similar organisms is contained in 1,000 litres of the water.
But Prof. G. H. Parker has recently shown that the sponge
Spinosella at Bermuda, with about twenty exhalant openings
can strain in a day about 1,575 litres, or over 415 gallons
of sea-water.
In addition to the plankton and the nanno -plankton,
Professor Prince draws attention to the " Demerson,"
sinking clouds of dead plankton, which settle on the botton
as a colloidal stratum, recalling the now discredited
" Bathybius " of pre-" Challenger " times. This demerson is
an important source of nutriment for animals at all depths
from coast to abyss. Petersen and others have also recog-
nized this potential food-matter under the name " detritus."
The various estimates differ widely. It is probable that
different animals differ in their food-requirements according
to their habits, and probably localities also vary. It is
evident that further data are required, as the calculations
of food requirements on our present data must be regarded
as of very doubtful value. The food requirements cannot
be expected to be proportional to the animal's weight, as
exoskeletal and some other structures that add materially
to the weight are not active in metabolism. Nor can the
surface area be taken as a guide, as surfaces vary greatly
in absorbing power.
Professor B. Moore and several other bio-chemists, in a
series of investigations made at the Port Erin Biological
Station from 1910 onwards, have shown conclusively that
the amount of dissolved organic carbon present in the sea-
water of the Irish Sea is almost negligible (lying well below
1 mgr. per litre of water), and that Piitter's figures are very
incorrect ; his original figure of sixty-five having been brought
down by Henze and Raben to six, and then three, and now
by Moore to one, which is within the limit of experimental
error. Moore has also shown, however, that the amount
of plankton normally present and generally distributed
throughout the water, avoiding special swarms, is insuffi-
318 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
cient to provide food for the larger animals if these merely
filter the water as it comes. In fact, according to the
latest investigations, the organic matter in solution and the
generally distributed plankton taken together do not seem
sufficient for the nutrition of actively swimming marine
animals, although they may suffice for the fixed or sedentary
forms, such as sponges, ascidians and lamellibranch moUuscs.
Moore estimates that the sedentary sponge requires to
filter only fifteen times its own volume per hour, while the
active Crustacean requires 250 times. The active animals,
however, such as Crustacea and fishes, probably hunt their
food and follow up shoals of plankton or frequent those
zones in which the plankton is especially abundant, and so
are able to obtain a great deal more than the average amount
which is distributed through the water in general at the time.
This result accords well with our many observations at
Port Erin on the irregularity in the distribution of the plank-
ton, and the corresponding variations in the occurrence of
the migratory fishes which may be regarded as following
and feeding upon the swarms of planktonic organisms.
We have, moreover, direct evidence that the larger and
more active members of the plankton, such as Copepoda,
do feed upon the minute algae of the plankton. W. J.
Dakin's original observations made at Kiel have been
corroborated and extended by Esterly in California, who has
shown conclusively that in a number of different species of
Copepoda he examined, particles such as Diatoms and other
minute members of the plankton are ingested and can be
traced through the intestine. Some individual Copepoda
may be found with the alimentary canal empty, or containing
only a greenish amorphous mass, but that may well be
because soft-bodied organisms have been eaten and have
been or are being rapidly digested. Further observations
must, however, be made into the food and the feeding habits
of all plankton feeders in the living condition, and when
actually feeding. I may add that during the last twenty
FOOD-MATTERS IN THE SEA 319
years I have myself examined in the living condition about
10,000 samples of freshly caught plankton, and I have no
doubt whatever, from what I have seen, that the Copepoda
and other larger and more active animals are habitually
feeding upon the smaller forms.
Putting aside the detritus or demerson, and other plant
and animal food on the sea-bottom, and considering only
what is free in the water, as yet we have discovered no other
more abimdant source of food for larger marine animals
than the organisms of the plankton, and if this is really
insufficient, as Piitter and others have tried to prove, then
we have here one of the most important problems of marine
biology still unsolved, and one which requires further
research, both observational and experimental, upon the
feeding habits of many common animals — work which can
only be carried on at sea or in the laboratories of marine
biological stations.
The problem is, in part, a bio -chemical one ; and that
brings us to Piitter's further assertion that, as he was able
to keep large invertebrates and even fish in water containing
no obvious or particulate food during long periods when they
were daily absorbing oxygen and losing carbon, they must
have been living on dissolved carbon in the water. This
has been answered by Moore and his fellow-workers at
Port Erin, who have conducted a long series of experiments
ranging over seven months (235 days) on the nutrition and
metabolism of various marine animals, during which they
kept such large animals as lobsters, octopus and fish. Each
experiment ran for a long period, during which the animals
were not fed, but their consumption of oxygen and output
of carbon-dioxide was determined daily. At the end the
animals showed no serious result and no loss in weight.
They were apparently healthy and lively. The explanation
was found to be that the loss of organic matter from the
tissues is made good or replaced by an equivalent amount
of sea-water taken in. The proteins of the animals' tissues
320 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
were found to be much reduced, and the loss was sufficient
to account for all the energy required for the metabolism of
the fasting animal.
The bearing of this result upon Piitter's views is that
when a marine animal does not lose weight on being kept
without food, it need not be supposed that it is obtaining
carbon from hypothetical dissolved compounds in the water,
but is merely replacing the loss from its tissues by storing
up water. It is evident, however, that this process cannot
go on indefinitely.
Notwithstanding Piitter's statements, which have under-
gone so many corrections, until further evidence is forth-
coming we may continue to believe that aquatic animals
are nourished chiefly by particulate food taken in at the
mouth and digested in the alimentary canal.
The further and final contribution that Professor Moore
and the other bio-chemists at Port Erin have made to our
knowledge of the metabolism of the sea and the nutrition
of marine animals, is that the green plant cell, such as that
of the phyto-plankton, is not dependent for either its nitrogen
or its carbon upon the amount that may be present in the
form of nitrogen salts and as carbon dioxide in the water.
They have shown in recent papers before the Royal Society ^
that elemental nitrogen can be obtained from the air through
the water, and the very small quantities of nitrates, nitrites
and ammonia salts may remain in the water unconsumed.
In regard to the carbon supply their experiments show
that the bicarbonates of magnesium and calcium can be
broken up and used by the green plant cell in its nutrition,
until the whole stock of bicarbonates in the water has been
exhausted. This latest result cuts at the root not only of
Piitter's views as to the source of carbon, but also of the
law of the minimum (so far as regards nitrogen), as expounded
by Brandt and others — to the effect that the amount of
^ Proc. Roy. Soc, B 91 and 92 (1920). See also Moore's book
Biochemistry (1921).
FOOD-MATTERS IN THE SEA 321
possible organic life in the sea is limited by the quantity
of whatever necessary substance is present in minimal amount
— it being supposed, for example, that the necessary
nitrogen has to be obtained from the small quantities present
in the form of ammonia salts, nitrates and nitrites. But
these recent experiments show that, to quote the words of
Moore's Royal Society paper : —
" The source of the nitrogen is the atmospheric elemental
nitrogen dissolved in the sea-water, and not ammonia,
nitrates or nitrites. The source of the carbon is the carbon
dioxide of the bicarbonates of calcium and magnesium
dissolved in sea- water."
This reaction is so large in amount in the sea, in spring
at the time of the plankton maximum, that if it takes place
to the same extent down to a depth of 100 metres, then the
carbon made available would suffice for a crop of phyto-
plankton amounting to at least ten tons of moist vegetation
per acre.
In the application of oceanographic investigations to sea-
fisheries problems, one ultimate aim, whether frankly
admitted or not, must be to obtain some kind of a rough
approximation to a census or valuation of the sea — of the
fishes that form the food of man, of the lower animals of
the sea-bottom on which many of the fishes feed, and of
the planktonic contents of the upper waters which form
the ultimate organized food of the sea — and many attempts
have been made in different ways to attain the desired
end.
Our knowledge of the number of animals living in different
regions of the sea is for the most part relative only. We
know that one haul of the dredge is larger than another, or
that one locahty seems richer than another, but we have
very little information as to the actual numbers of any kind
of animal per square foot or per acre in the sea. Hensen,
as we have seen, attempted to estimate the number of food-
fishes in the North Sea from the number of their eggs caught
Y
322 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
in a comparatively small series of hauls of the tow-net, but
the data were probably quite insufficient and the conclusions
may be erroneous. It is an interesting speculation to which
we cannot attach any economic importance. His own
colleague, Heincke, says of it : " This method appears
theoretically feasible, but presents in practice so many
serious difficulties that no positive results of real value have
as yet been obtained."
All biologists must agree that to determine even approxi-
mately the number of individuals of any particular species
living in a known area is a contribution to knowledge which
may be of great economic value in the case of the edible
fishes, but it may be doubted whether Hensen's methods,
even with greatly increased data, will ever give us the
required information. Petersen's method, of setting free
marked plaice and then assuming that the proportion of
these recaught is to the total number marked as the fisher-
men's catch in the same district is to the total population,
will only hold good in circumscribed areas where there
is practically no migration and where the fish are fairly
evenly distributed. This method gives us what has been
called " the fishing coefficient," applicable to the North Sea
for those sizes of fish which are caught by the trawl.
Heincke,^ from an actual examination of samples of the
stock on the ground obtained by experimental trawHng
(" the catch coefficient "), supplemented by the market
returns of the various countries, estimates the adult plaice
at about 1,500 millions, of which about 500 millions are
caught or destroyed by the fishermen annually.
It is difficult to imagine any further method which will
enable us to estimate any such case as, say, the number of
plaice in the North Sea, where the individuals are so far
beyond our direct observation and are liable to change their
positions at any moment. But a beginning can be made
1 F. Heincke, Cons. Per. Internat. Explor. de la Mer, " Investiga-
tions on the Plaice," Copenhagen, 1913.
FOOD-MATTERS IN THE SEA 323
on more accessible ground with more sedentary animals,
and Dr. C. G. Joh. Petersen, of the Danish Biological Station,
has for some years been pm^suing the subject in a series of
interesting reports on the " Evaluation of the Sea." ^
He uses a bottom-sampler, or grab, which can be lowered
down open and then closed on the bottom so as to bring
up a sample square foot or square metre (or in deep water
one-tenth of a square metre) of the sand or mud and its
inhabitants. With this apparatus, modified in size and
weight for different depths and bottoms, Petersen and his
fellow-workers have made a very thorough examination
of the Danish waters, and especially of the Kattegat and
the Limfjord, have described a series of " animal communi-
ties " characteristic of different zones and regions of shallow
water, and have arrived at certain numerical results as to
the quantity of animals in the Kattegat expressed in tons
— such as 5,000 tons of plaice requiring as food 50,000 tons
of " useful animals " (moUusca and polychset worms), and
25,000 tons of starfish using up 200,000 tons of useful animals
which might otherwise serve as food for fishes, and the
dependence of all these animals directly or indirectly upon
the great Beds of Zostera, which make up 24,000,000 tons in
the Kattegat. Such estimates are obviously of great biologi-
cal interest, and, even if only rough approximations, are a
valuable contribution to oik understanding of the meta-
bolism of the sea and of the possibiHty of increasing the yield
of local fisheries.
But on studying these Danish results in the light of
what we know of our own marine fauna, although none of
our seas have been examined in the same detail by the
bottom-sampler method, it seems probable that the animal
communities as defined by Petersen are not exactly appli-
cable on our coasts, and that the estimates of relative and
absolute abundance may be very different in different seas
1 See Reports of the Danish Biological Station, and especially the
Report for 1918, " The Sea Bottom and its Production of Fish Food."
Y*
324 FOUNDEHS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
under different conditions. The work will have to be done
in each great area, such as the North Sea, the English
Channel, and the Irish Sea, independently. This is a necessary
investigation, both biological and physical, which lies before
the oceanographers of the future, upon the results of which
the future preservation and further cultivation of our national
sea-fisheries may depend.
It has been shown by Johnstone and others that the
common edible animals of the shore may exist in such
abundance that an area of the sea may be more productive
of food for man than a similar area of pastm'e or crops
on land. A Lancashire mussel-bed has been shown to have
as many as 16,000 young mussels per square foot, and it is
estimated that in the shallow waters of Liverpool Bay there
are from 20 to 200 animals of sizes varying from an
amphipod to a plaice on each square metre of the bottom.
Shelf ord, in America, states that 4 square feet of the sea will
support one human life.
From these and similar data which can be readily obtained,
it is not difficult to calculate totals by estimating the
number of square yards in areas of similar character between
tide-marks or in shallow water. And from weighings of
samples some approximation to the number of tons of
available food may be computed. But one must not go
too far. Let all the figures be based upon actual observa-
tion. Imagination is necessary in science, but in calculating
a population of even a very limited area it is best to believe
only what one can see and measure.
Countings and weighings, however, do not give us all
the information we need. It is something to know even
approximately the number of millions of animals on a mile
of shore and the number of millions of tons of possible food
in a sea-area, but that is not sufficient. All food-fishes are
not equally nourishing to man, and all plankton and bottom
invertebrata are not equally nourishing to a fish. At this
point the biologist requires the assistance of the physiologist
FOOD-MATTERS IN THE SEA 325
and the bio-chemist. We want to know next the value of
our food matters in proteids, carbohydrates, and fats, and
the resulting calories. We have already seen how markedly
a fat summer herring differs in essential constitution from
the ordinary white fish, such as the cod, which is almost
destitute of fat.
Professor Brandt, at Kiel, Professor Benjamin Moore, at
Port Erin, and others, have similarly shown that plankton
gatherings may vary greatly in their nutrient value accord-
ing as they are composed mainly of Diatoms, of Dinoflagel-
lates, or of Copepoda. And, no doubt, the animals of the
" benthos," the common invertebrates of our shores, will
show similar differences in analysis.^ It is obvious that
some contain more solid flesh, others more water in their
tissues, others more calcareous matter in the exoskeleton,
and that therefore, weight for weight, we may be sure that
some are more nutritious than the others ; and this is
probably at least one cause of that preference we see in
some of our bottom-feeding fish for certain kinds of food,
such as polychaet worms, in which there is relatively little
waste, and thin-shelled lamellibranch molluscs, such as
young mussels, which have a highly nutrient body in a
comparatively thin and brittle shell.
Such investigations of foods and their values seem a natural
and useful extension of faunistic work, for the purpose of
obtaining some approximation to a quantitative estimate
of the more important animals of our shores and shallow
water, and their relative values as either the immediate or
the ultimate food of marketable fishes.
Each such fish has its " food-chain " or series of alter-
native chains, leading back from the food of man to the
1 Moore and others have made analyses of the protein, fat, etc.,
m the soft parts of Sponge, Ascidian, Aplysia, Fusus, Echinus, and
Cancer at Port Erin, and find considerable differences — the protein
ranging, for example, from 8 to 51 per cent., and the fat from 2 to
14 per cent, (see Bio-Chemical Journ., vi, p. 291).
326 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
invertebrates upon which it preys and then to the food of
these, and so down to the smallest and simplest organisms
in the sea, and each such chain must have all its links fully
worked out as to seasonal and quantitative occurrence back
to the Diatoms and Flagellates which depend upon physical
conditions and take us beyond the range of biology — but
not beyond that of oceanography. The Diatoms and the
Flagellates are probably more important than the more
obvious sea- weeds, not only as food, but also in supplying
to the water the oxygen necessary for the respiration of
living protoplasm. In addition to the numbers present
at any time, the further object must be to estimate the rate
of production and rate of destruction of all organic substances
in the sea. Lohmann has estimated that at Kiel, through-
out the year, the plants make up 56 per cent, and the
animals 44 per cent, of the plankton, and that the plants
have an average daily accession of 30 per cent, (in volume)
which is consumed by the animals.
To attain to an approximate census and valuation of the
sea — remote though it may seem — is a great aim, but it is
not sufficient. We want not only to record and to count
natural objects, but also to understand them. We require
to know not merely what an organism is — in the fullest
detail of structure and development and affinities — and
also where it occurs— again in full detail — and in what abun-
dance under different circumstances, but also how it lives,
and what all its relations are to both its physical and its
biological environment, and that is where the physiologist,
and especially the bio-chemist, can help us. In the best
interests of biological progress the day of the naturalist
who merely collects, the day of the anatomist and histologist
who merely describe, is over, and the future is with the
observer and the experimenter animated by a divine curio-
sity to enter into the life of the organism and understand
how it lives and moves and has its being — '' Felix qui potuit
rerum cognoscere causas."
FOOD-MATTERS IN THE SEA 327
Thus we catch glimpses — it is not yet a finished picture —
of the endless changes of the ocean ; of both earth and air
contributing necessary materials to the water so that those
of minimal amount never become exhausted ; of the fishes
we eat feeding upon smaller animals, the cod on the hermit
and other crabs, the plaice on cockles and mussels, the
herring on the larger Copepods of the plankton, and these
in their turn on microscopic organisms ; of the carbon
dioxide and the silica becoming stored up in winter to be
used by the phyto -plankton which has been called into
activity by the increasing radiant energy of the sunlight
in spring, just in time to nourish the newly hatched post-
larval fishes ; of the zoo-plankton that follows, feeding on
the phyto -plankton and itself falling prey to the migratory
fishes in summer, and the dead remains of everjrthing f aUing
to the bottom to form the demerson upon which hordes
of benthonic animals can browse. And we recognize that
all are links in a series of interlacing chains where nothing
is lost, nothing wasted, substances disappearing only to
reappear in another form : the carbon and calcium now free
in the water as dissociated ions, now locked up in the shell
of a mollusc, buried in Globigerina ooze or fossilized as a
coral reef ; the silica once in a flint, now in a Radiolarian
shell, a Sponge spicule, or a Diatom frustule, to be redissolved
in the water when required by the inexorable laws of nature
to pass to another phase of the beneficent, never-ending
cycle of events that constitutes the metabolism of the
oceans.
The appeal which such researches in pure science make
to university laboratories, and to all who desire to advance
knowledge, ought to be irresistible ; but there is also a
wider appeal, on economic grounds, not to the scientific
world alone, but to the whole population of these islands,
a maritime people who owe everything to the sea. I urge
them to become better informed in regard to our national
sea-fisheries and take a more enlightened interest in the
328 FOUNDERS OF OCEANOGRAPHY
basal principles that underlie a rational regulation and
exploitation of these important industries. National effi-
ciency depends to a very great extent upon the degree in
which scientific results and methods are appreciated by
the people and scientific investigation is promoted by the
Government and other administrative authorities. The
principles and discoveries of science apply to aquiculture
no less than to agriculture. To increase the harvest of
the sea the fisheries must be continuously investigated, and
such cultivation as is possible must be applied, and all this
is clearly a natural application of the biological and hydro-
graphical work now united under the science of oceanography.
May I hope that the foregoing chapters have given the
reader an impression of a young science-in-the-making,
where there are curious facts to verify, interesting theories
to discuss and plenty of unsolved problems ?
Mr. J. Y. Buchanan has claimed that the science of oceano-
graphy was born at sea on February 15, 1873, at the first
official dredging station of the " Challenger " expedition,
when everything that came up in the dredge was new and
led to fundamental discoveries as to the deposits forming
on the floor of the ocean. That was exactly half a century
ago, and although much has been done in the interval by
Government expeditions and by individual explorers, nothing
so comprehensive as the voyage of the " Challenger," or
yielding such a body of scientific results, has yet been
achieved.
In the Presidential Address to the British Association at
Cardiff, in 1920, the question was asked, " Has not the time
come for anew ' Challenger ' expedition ? " — and during the
succeeding days of the meeting the question was answered
over and over again in the affirmative. The suggestion
was taken up with such enthusiasm by the various scientific
sections of the Association that the Council appointed a
FOOD-MATTERS IN THE SEA 329
special committee of experts to draw up a reasoned report
on the need of a national expedition for the further explora-
tion of the oceans, the objects to be attained, and the probable
cost. The memorandum which resulted from the work of
this committee is printed here (by permission of the British
Association) as an appendix, in the hope that it may be of
interest and possibly of use in the future ; but in the mean-
time the project remains in abeyance. After consultation
with high authorities, the Council of the Association, in
March, 1921, reluctantly decided that, although not aban-
doned, the matter must be postponed in deference to the
pressing need for economy in national expenditure.
In the report of the Council for 1920-21 it is stated : —
" The scheme, however, is retained under consideration,
and the Council hopes that the expedition is only postponed
for a season, and that the interval may be usefully employed
in perfecting plans and making other essential preparations.
" Meanwhile the memorandum has been communicated to
the Cabinet Secretariat of H.M. Government, the Admiralty,
and the Department of Scientific and Industrial Research."
It must suffice to add that all the sciences concerned —
Physics, Chemistry, Geology, Zoology, Botany, Physiology,
and Geography — have problems for the oceanographer
awaiting solution, a number of the investigations proposed
are of the highest direct practical importance, and there are
many reasons why it is lu^gent that the scheme should be
revived and preparations organized with as little delay as
possible. In view of our maritime position, of the relations
of our Empire to the oceans, of the pre-eminence of our Navy,
of our great mercantile marine, and of our sea-fisheries,
Great Britain should undoubtedly lead the world in oceano-
graphical research.
APPENDIX
MEMORANDUM ON PROPOSED NATIONAL EXPEDI-
TION FOR THE EXPLORATION OF THE SEA i
Origin of Proposal
At the Annual Meeting of the British Association for the
Advancement of Science in August, 1920, the President, Dr. W. A.
Herdman, F.R.S., Professor of Oceanography in the University of
Liverpool, dehvered an address deaUng with some of the problems
of oceanography, and suggested that the time had come for a new
British expedition to explore the great oceans of the globe. This
suggestion was afterwards put forward more definitely and with
further detail in the discussion " On the Need for the Scientific
Investigation of the Ocean " at a joint meeting of the Sections of
Zoology and Geography. The proposal then made was, in brief,
that there was now urgent need for another great exploring
expedition like that of the " Challenger " (1872-76), national in
character, world-wide in scope, to investigate further the science
of the sea, in all departments, by modern methods, under the best
expert advice and control.
Action by Committees and Council of the Association
This proposal was received with such favour that at the next
meeting of the Committee of Section D (Zoology) a resolution was
unanimously passed : —
That Section D is profoundly impressed with the impor-
tance of urging the initiation of a further National Expedi-
tion for the Exploration of the Ocean, and requests the
^ Reprinted, by permission, from the Report of the Council of the
British Association^ for 1 920-2 L
331
332 APPENDIX
Council of the British Association to appoint a Committee
to take the necessary steps to impress this need upon His
Majesty's Government and the nation.
This resolution was supported by the Committees of all the
other Sections of the Association interested in such an explora-
tion. The Committee of Recommendations and the General
Committee on the following day passed a resolution " pointing out
the importance of urging the initiation of a national expedition
for the exploration of the ocean, and requesting that the Council
of the British Association should take the necessary steps to
impress this need upon His Majesty's Government and the nation."
The Council of the Association thereupon appointed a Committee,
representative of all the departments of science concerned, to
prepare and take steps for the presentation of the present state-
ment ; while, following upon a reference from the Association,
the Council of the Royal Society also appointed a Committee to
confer with that appointed by the Council of the Association.
Many men of science, both British and foreign, wrote expressing
the hope that the cogent scientific reasons for the expedition may
be pressed without delay upon the Government, so as to induce
the nation to undertake this great enterprise.
II
" Challenger " Expedition
The " Challenger " expedition, the great British circumnaviga-
ting and deep-sea exploring expedition under Sir George Nares
and Sir Wyville Thomson in 1872-76, brought back collections
and results unrivalled either before or since, which added
enormously to our scientific and practical knowledge of the oceans.
Our knowledge of the science of the sea, however, has undergone
great changes during the last half-century. Physics, Chemistry,
Geology, Zoology, Botany, Physiology, and Geography all have
problems awaiting solution, ^ and there are many modern methods
of investigation of the ocean depths which have been devised or
improved since the days of the " Challenger." All civilized
nations of the world have contributed by means of expeditions
during the last quarter-century to the advance of oceanography,
^ See schedule appended (p. 334, for a summary of the proposed
investigations.
APPENDIX 333
and it is remarkable that our country, considering the relations
of our Empire to the oceans, has done comparatively little. In
view of our maritime position, of the pre-eminence of our Navy,
of our great mercantile marine, and of our sea-fisheries. Great
Britain should undoubtedly lead the world in oceanographical
research.
Ill
Scope and Period of Proposed Expedition
Such an expedition as is contemplated ought, in order to make
worthy contributions to science, to be at least as extensive in dura-
tion and as comprehensive in scope as the " Challenger " expedi-
tion. It ought to explore all the great oceans during a period of
three or four years. It ought to be prepared to estabUsh landing
parties on oceanic islands, coral reefs, and other places where
special detailed explorations on shore or in shallow water are
required. Special scientific apparatus may have to be devised,
and young scientific men may have to be trained to fit them for
the work of such an expedition. At least one year, therefore,
would have to be devoted to the work of preparation. It will be
apparent from the Schedule to this statement that a number of the
investigations proposed are of the highest direct practical import-
ance, and there are many reasons why it is important that the
scheme should be initiated and preparations organized with as
little delay as possible.
Ship
Preliminary inquiries lead tentatively to the belief that a vessel
of the mercantile marine, of about 3,000 tons, chartered by H.M.
Government for the occasion, would best suit the general purposes
of the expedition ; with the possible exception, as already indi-
cated, of certain investigations which might be carried out
independently of the main body.
Scientific Personnel
It is estimated that the scientific staff of such an expedition
should consist of a director with ten or twelve assistants, exclusive
of landing parties and any officers of the Royal Navy who might
be detailed for special investigations for Admiralty purposes.
Cost
While it is difficult under present conditions, and in the present
preliminary stage of inquiry into the possibihty and scope of the
334 APPENDIX
expedition, to form any near estimate of its cost, it is believed
that (apart from the provision of the ship, which it is hoped
would be undertaken by the Admiralty) this should lie between
£200,000 and £300,000, with a bias toward the higher figure.
It is to be observed that the expenditure would be spread over
a number of years.
Publication of Results
In this connection suitable arrangements for the adequate
publication of the results of the expedition must be borne in mind.
The working out and publication of the results of the " Challenger "
expedition are stated to have cost about as much as the expedi-
tion itself, and a similar expenditure may be anticipated in the
present case.
Preservation of Specimens
The natural repository of type specimens collected during the
expedition would be the British Museum (Natural History
Department), while duplicate specimens should be offered to
museums, universities, etc., in various parts of the Empire.
SCHEDULE
Subjects for Investigation
To give some idea of the amount and variety of scientific
work that might be undertaken by such an expedition, the follow-
ing may be mentioned as some of the chief recommendations
which have been received from representatives of the various
Sections of the British Association concerned : —
(1) In the departments of marine biology and physiology
extensive investigations are required of fish and fisheries in
the interest of food supplies. These include a very wide
range of inquiry, which may be summarized thus : the
effects of temperature and other conditions on the distribu-
tion and life of organisms ; the distribution of the plankton
(which includes organisms of first-rate importance as food for
fishes which supply food for man) ; ocean currents in relation
to fisheries (just enough is known as to the influence of varia-
tions in the great oceanic currents upon the movements and
abundance of migi'atory fishes to make evident the need for
further and more complete investigation of the subject) ;
APPENDIX 335
the physiology of deep-sea and other oceanic animals ; the
investigation of marine algae, both coastal and planktonic ;
marine bacteria ; bio-chemical investigation of the meta-
bohsm of the sea (this is perhaps the department of ocean-
ography which deals with the most fundamental problems
and which is most in need of immediate investigation) ; the
question of the abundance of tropical plankton as compared
with that of temperate and polar seas, the distribution and
action of denitrifying bacteria, the variations of the plankton
in relation to environmental conditions, the factors which
determine uniformity of conditions over a large sea-area
from the point of view of plankton distribution, the supply
of the necessary minimal substances such as nitrogen, silica,
and phosphorus to the living organisms, and the determina-
tion of the rate of production and rate of destruction
of all organic substances in the sea — these are some of the
fundamental problems of the metabolism of the ocean ;
all of them require investigation, and bear, directly or
indirectly, upon the harvest of the sea for man's use, just
as agricultural researches bear upon the harvest of the
land.
(2) In the appropriate departments of chemistry observa-
tions are required on the temperatiu'e, salinity, and chemistry
of sea-water, the hydrogen-ion concentration, and the
source and distribution of nitrogen in the sea.
(3) In the department of physics there is need for investi-
gation of meteorological problems, the distribution of
oceanic temperature, atmospheric electricity, long-distance
transmission of electro -magnetic waves, and other problems
of wireless telegraphy at sea. The study of the variation
in the force of gravity over the great ocean basins is also
suggested, and bears upon the problem of the figure of the
earth, and the density of materials of which it is composed.
It may be stated here that such an investigation might need
to be carried out on a larger and steadier ship than that which
would most probably be detailed for the expedition. On
the other hand, there is no reason why the whole of the
investigations associated with the expedition should be con-
fined to a single vessel, for the opportunity might be made
for collateral investigations on other vessels in the ordinary
course of navigation. Similarly, the investigation of the
phenomena of tides, one of the most urgent on the physical
336 APPENDIX
side, could most profitably be begun in shallow seas, and not
on the vessel carrying the main expedition over the deep
oceans.
(4) In the departments of geology and geography there
are indicated as subjects for study both shallow and deep
water deposits, and the various methods of deposition ;
sediments on the sea-bottom in relation to the movement
(rising or sinking) of adjacent land areas (a matter which
in turn bears upon the encroachments of the sea upon the
land, or the reverse) ; borings on the floor of the sea for the
extension of knowledge of the rocks composing the crust of
the earth ; the physical conditions of oceanic islands ; the
growth and other problems of coral reefs and islands.
(5) In the department of anthropology it is pointed out
that the opportunity for landing parties on oceanic islands
(especially in the Pacific) would give occasion for obser-
vations on the ethnography, habits, and life of native
populations ; any medical officer attached to such parties
would find matter for study in the physical characters and
diseases of natives.
It is not suggested that the foregoing summary by any means
covers a complete list of the problems of the ocean requiring
investigation, nor, on the other hand, that these need aU be
undertaken by one expedition ; but they are sufficient to show
that there is still much to be found out in all branches of oceano-
graphy, and that a further scientific exploration of the oceans
will add to knowledge in many branches of science, and should
also aid in the advancement of various industries based upon
marine products of economic importance.
It may be desirable to refer to the relations between the work
of such an expedition as is here proposed — work which, while
temporary in character, would be world-wide in scope — and that
carried on under the International Council for the Study of the
Sea in the North Atlantic and adjoining European seas. This
latter work, while restricted in scope, is permanent, and the
proposed oceanographic expedition covers a wider range in
science, and would offer an unsurpassable opportunity of
qualifying investigators to take part in future oceanographical
and fisheries research under a permanent organization.
INDEX
JEgean Sea, Forbes on, 23
Agassiz, Alexander, 107-118
at Colombo, 115
coral reefs, 114
Cruises of the '' Blake,'' 111
expeditions, 117
— Louis, 99-107
— trawl, 108
Alkalinity, 165, 277
Allen, Dr. E. J., 254
Amphipoda, 213
Analysis of fish foods, 325
Antedon rosaceus, 40
Aquarium, Naples, 141
Aquiculture, 279
Arcachon, 280
Arctic plankton, 258
" Ark," at Granton, 85
"Atlantic Drift," 177
"Atlantis," Plato's, 3
Atolls, 201
Azoic zone, 24, 37
Bacillus calcis, 185
Bacteria, 213, 228, 259
Ballaugh bank, 21
Barriers, 150
" Bathybius," 61-68
" Beacon " expedition, 22
Benthos, 194, 231
Biddulphia, 235, 256
Biological Stations, 134
Black Sea, 157
Boreal " outliers," 28
Bouchot mussel culture, 289
Brandt, Prof., 259
British Association, 91, 328, 331—
336
Buchanan, Mr. J. Y., 121, 124,
328
Calanus finmarchicus, 236, 258, 270,
306
Carbon-dioxide, 166, 266, 320
Caribbean Sea, 111
Carpenter, Dr. W. B., 41, 313
Celtic province, 268
Ceratium tripos, 214
ChcBteceras, 234
Chcetopterus, 219
Chalk, 196
" Challenger " expedition, 8, 45,
56-68, 328, 332
— medal, 90
— office, 75, 85
— reports, 62, 79
Challengerida, 163
Christmas Island, 73
Cleve, P. T., 244
Cliona, 283
Clione limacina, 152
Coccolithophorida, 188, 234, 269
Cod fisheries, 295
Colour of the sea, 162
Columbus, 6
Continental shelf, 147
— slope, 147
Continents, 197, 199
Conway experiments, 291
Cook, Captain James, 7
Copepoda, 220, 236, 248, 313, 318
Coral muds, 185
— reefs, 77, 201-211
' Coscinodiscus, 235
Coste, M. P., 283
Currents, 171, 172, 259
Cuttle-fishes, 121, 222
Cypridina, 219
Cypris of Balanus, 267
Dahlgren, Ulric, 219
337
338
INDEX
Daly, R. A., 209
Dana, J. D., 203
Darwin, Charles, 203
" Deeps," 146
Demerson, 317
Density, 158
Depths of the Sea, 41-44
Diatom ooze, 192
Diatoms, 234, 248, 313
Diazona violacea, 20
Dinoflagellata, 235, 248
Discoveries, dates of, 7
Dohrn, Dr. Anton, 135, 143
Doliolum, 245
Dredge, 9, 17
Dredging on "Challenger," 48
Drew, G. H., 185
Dubois, Prof. R., 219, 221, 227
Eel, migrations of, 307
Eggs of sea-fish, 299, 303
Espevig, oyster ponds, 286
Experimental error, 250
Factors in irregularity of plankton,
258
Faroe Channel, 54, 83
Fauna and flora, British, 26
Fish, total in North Sea, 238
Fisheries statistics, 294
Fishery Board for Scotland, 300
Fishes, luminous, 225
Florida reefs, 104, 113
" Food-chains " in sea, 325
Food migrations, 307
Forbes, Edward, 9, 12-36
Fowler, Dr. H., 244
Funafuti expedition, 78, 207
Funiculina quadrangular is, 207
Gases in sea, 156
Giard, Prof. A., 213
" Glacial-control " theory, 209
Globigerina bulloides, 189, 190
Globigerina ooze, 189, 195
Goodsir, Prof. John, 15
Gran, Prof. H. H., 241
Granton Biological Station, 86
Gray -fish, 310
Gulf Stream, 172-178
Guppy, Dr. H. B., 206
Harvey, E. Newton, 219, 227
Hatching sea-fish, 298, 300
Heincke, Prof., 322
Hensen, Prof. V., 231
Herring, 296
Hjort, Dr. Johan, 84, 94, 273
Holoplankton, 232
Homoiozoic belts, 29, 35
Hydrography, 145-169
" Implosion," 160
Institut Oceanographique, 132
Irish Sea, 269
Islands, 201
Isotherms, 149
Johnstone, Prof. J., 291, 296, 324
Kiel planktologists, 232, 239, 253,
255
" Knight-Errant " expedition, 55
Kofoid, Prof. C. A., 118, 255
Labrador current, 176
Lebour, Dr. Marie, 256, 271
Light, penetration of, 162
" Lightning " expedition, 42
Limfjord, 274
Lo Bianco, Dr. S., 141
Loch Fyne, 300
Luciferine and Luciferase, 221,
227
Luidia fragilissima, 20
Luminescence in the sea, 212-230
Mac Andrew, Robert, 19
Magellan, 6
Maury, Captain M. F., 173, 174
Mayer, Dr. A. G., 115, 208
" Medusa," cruises of, 86, 88
Medusae, 215
Meganyctiphanes, 221
Meroplankton, 232
Mesodinium pulex, 243
Mesoplankton, 108, 231
Metabolism of the ocean, 327
— rate of, 260
" Michael Sars " expedition, 94
Migrations of fish, 304
Millport Biological Station, 89
MoUusca, 221
INDEX
339
Monaco, Prince of, 119-133
drift-floats, 126
whaling, 122
— Museum, 128
— Publications, 120
Moore, Prof. B., 166, 276, 317, 320
Morecambe Bay, 290
Moseley, Prof. H. N., 47
Mud-line, 305
Miiller, O. F., 9
Murray, Sir John, 10, 69-98, 183
bipolarity, 82
coral reefs, 205
Depths of the Ocean, 95
fresh-water lochs, 87, 153
letters from, 80, 91
The Ocean, 81, 96
Museum of Comparative Zoology,
103, 105, 110
Mussel culture, 288-292
Nannoplankton, 242, 252
" Nansen " net, 233, 247
Naples Zoological Station, 135
Naturalists on exploring ships, 8
Nauplius of Balanus, 257
Nekton, 231
Neritic deposits, 182, 184, 186, 195
— plankton, 231, 236, 269
Newfoimdland banks, 151, 174
Newport laboratory, 109
Nitrogen, 320, 321
Noctiluca scintillans, 214, 235
Ocean basins, 197
Oceanic plankton, 231, 236, 269
Oceanographers, early, 2
Oceanographic Museum, 128
— research, 34
Oceanography, divisions of, 1
— foundations of, 1
Oceans, depths, 145, 146
— size of, 145
Off-shore wind and temperature,
154
Oikopleura (" Appendicularia "),
237, 253
Oozes, deep-sea, 75
Ophiacantha spinulosa, 218
Otoliths and age of fishes, 307
Oyster-culture, 280-288
Pelagia noctiluca, 216
Pelagic deposits, 182, 187
Penikese Biological Station, 106,
109
Pennatula phosphorea, 216
Peridinium, 243
Petersen, Dr. C. G. Joh., 274, 322,
323
Pettersson, Dr. Otto, 177, 305
Pholas, 221
Phosphorescence, 212
Photic zone, 162
Photobacteria, 213
Photospheres, 221
Photosynthesis, 278
Phytoplankton, 236, 263, 273
Plaice larva, 274
Plankton, 164, 231-278
— expedition, 232, 243
Planktonic cycle, 264
Pleurobrachia pileus, 216
Pliny, 4
Polycystina earth, 196
'* Porcupine " expedition, 42
Port Erin Biological Station, 36,
302
Portugal, Prince Henry of, 5
Pressure and depth, 159
Prince, Prof. E., 316
" Princesse Alice " expeditions, 120
Protophyta, 214
Protozoa, 214
Pseudomonas calcis, 186
Pteropod ooze, 188
Ptolemy, 5
Purbeck beds, Forbes on, 25
Putter, Prof. A., 275, 314
Pyrocystis, 214
Pyrosoma, 224
Pytheas, 3
Radiolaria, 196, 215
Radiolarian ooze, 192, 196
iled clay, 191
Renard, Prof. (Abbd), 73
Rhizosolenia, 235
Sagitta, 236, 245, 250
Salinity, 154, 168
Salts in sea- water, 155
Sargasso Sea, 151, 157, 245
340
INDEX
Sars, G. O., 41, 303
Sea-fisheries, 293-311
Seiches, 171
Sounding, 147
Sperm-whales, 121
Spezia, bay of, 286
Sprat fishery, 308
Subjects for investigation, 334
Submarine deposits, 182-200
Suess, Prof., 199
Sunlight, 169, 266
Syntethys hebridica, 20
Temora longicornis, 269, 270
Temperatures of the sea, 148, 168
Terrigenous deposits, 182, 184
Thaumatolampas, 223
Thomson, Sir Wyville, 10, 87-56
Depths of the Sea, 41-44
The Atlantic, 61-54
Tides, 167, 170
Tile-fish, 178-181, 309
Townsend, Dr. C. H., 181
Transplanted mussels, 290
— plaice, 302
Trichodesmium, 234, 242
•' Triton " expedition, 65, 84
Tropical plankton, 258
Ultimate food in Sea, 312
United States Coast Survey, 103,
107, 108
Fisheries Bureau, 181, 300,
309
Valuation of the sea, 321, 326
VerrUl, Prof., 180
Vertical currents, 260, 272
— hauls, 242, 246, 256
Viscosity, 164
Waves, 170
Wegener's hypothesis, 199
Wind on lochs, 153
Wyville-Thomson Bidge, 83, 151
Zoea of crab, 240
Zoo -geologist, Forbes as a, 25
Zoo-plankton, 263
Zostera beds, 323
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